The bath always requires warm or hot water. Providing a bathhouse structure with a water supply system is a matter that requires a responsible approach with a thorough study of the nuances of the structure, its location, frequency of use, etc. Often this aspect of water supply is solved by purchasing a boiler for a bath of a certain design and method of operation.
Methods of heating water in a bath
There are several options for equipping a bathhouse with cold communications, hot water, the choice of which depends on:
- Duration and frequency of operation of the bathhouse;
- Average climate indicators in winter;
- Heating method used;
- The number of people for which the building is designed;
- Required volume of water for one visit.
Hot water can be provided in the following ways:
- Build a mounted, remote tank heated by a stove;
- Install a wood-burning water heater (Titanium);
- Purchase an electric storage or instantaneous boiler;
- Install a gas water heater;
- Use indirectly heated water heating equipment from a stove or home heating system;
- Hot water supply from the home water supply system.
The last option is the least common, since the bathhouse is most often not heated in the cold season. In winter, water supply pipes can be damaged due to frozen liquid inside. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to lay communications at a depth of 1.5-2 m, drain the water for the winter or after each visit. Quite a labor-intensive, rarely used method. It is easier to install a hanging tank near the stove or water heating equipment.
The easiest way
Manufacturers make sauna stoves with ready-made water tanks. This option is the simplest for installation and further operation. Relevant for buildings that do not have gas and water supply communications; a limit on the use of electricity has been determined.
Hot water tanks can be installed in two ways:
- The tank is placed directly on the chimney pipe of the stove, the liquid is heated by the heat of the smoke coming out. At the same time, the pipe can heat up to very high temperatures (500⁰ C), quickly warming up the contents of the tank. The bottom of the container is equipped with an opening, equal to the cross section chimney pipe. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints of the pipe and the tank at the inlet so that water does not leak out. The joint can be treated with a heat-resistant sealant, clay-lime-sand mortar. Cement mortar becomes cracked when exposed to heat.
At the same time, such placement allows you to heat the water with heat, which is usually removed outside. And install the chimney pipe inside attic space simpler, since excess heat is transferred to water. - Mounted tank. It is placed wall-mounted on one side of the stove, most often inside the steam room (capacity 40-70 l). A wood stove heats the water in the tank in 1.2-1.6 hours. To speed up the process, you can insulate the tank. Also simple, budget method, does not require significant material costs, easy to maintain.
Placing such a tank inside the steam room is considered a disadvantage due to the large release of water vapor. For bath buildings located in the country, this is one of the few available ways heating water, requiring no effort winter arrangement. Current option for a classic Russian bath. It is not recommended to equip a sauna with such a tank.
Indirect heating boiler in the bath
When it is impossible to install the tank directly next to the furnace, the boiler is placed in convenient location, while the device heats the contents indirectly.
Structurally, the water distribution is done so that part of the pipes passes through the furnace. Cold liquid from the reservoir passes through pipes, is supplied to the coil inside the furnace, is heated there and flows back into the container from above. The physical law of displacement of hot liquid by cold is also used here.
As a rule, the capacitive volume of the structure is 60-80 liters, the contents warm up in 1.6-2.2 hours. Advantages of this scheme:
- Separate placement from the stove;
- Can be used for a sauna;
- Ease of operation;
- Minimum resource costs.
The complicated design is a disadvantage that is compensated by ease of placement and functionality.
Bath boiler with tank
It is also a fairly simple, yet reliable option for heating water. Structurally, it is made of two parts:
- The lower one is designed for burning wood, other solid fuel(but not coal);
- The upper part is the reservoir. which heats the contents due to the heat of the chimney pipe passing inside the container.
It can be connected to a cold water supply system or equipped with a separate tank installed on the roof of the bathhouse. Under the influence physical strength hot liquid is displaced by heavy cold liquid during the washing process. The water heating tank must always be filled during use.
A wood-burning boiler for a bath with a container is equipped with a shower head and a special tap, which the manufacturer prohibits from replacing with ordinary faucets.
Advantages of a wood boiler: compactness, efficiency, ease of use, requires a small amount of solid fuel.
Storage, instantaneous water heaters
In addition to the methods described above, it is proposed to place gas water heaters, instantaneous or storage, inside the bathhouse. This can be done if gas communications are connected. A significant drawback is the complex process of installing the entire structure and approving the installation project.
For a gas boiler in a room, it is imperative to provide an exhaust system that removes gas combustion products to the outside. The wall on which the device is supposed to be placed must be protected with fireproof materials in accordance with fire safety rules. Drawing up and agreeing on the project will take some time. The advantage of a gas appliance, for which you can spend time and effort, is the low cost of gas (3-4 times cheaper than electricity).
Electric water heating devices are more often installed inside a bathhouse building due to the reasonable cost of the equipment and the absence of the question of how to connect the system. To choose the type of electric boiler, you should determine the frequency of visits, the number of people, and the time of year of operation.
Thus, a flow-through device can be used in the summer for a small number of people. In winter, cold water does not have time to warm up. For the winter period, it is advisable to use an electric storage device: there is a choice of tank capacity and power consumption.
At the same time, it must be remembered that
- The sauna structure may warm up before the liquid inside the water heater. Therefore, it should be turned on 1-2 hours before the start of heating the room, which is not always convenient in country conditions;
- If there is a limitation on electricity consumption, the power of the device must be correlated with the existing limit, the number of household electrical appliances used;
- Many storage water heaters are not designed for operation at temperatures below +5⁰ C. Violation this condition automatically voids the manufacturer's warranty.
Boiler in a bathhouse in winter
The boiler in the bathhouse in winter is exposed to low temperatures, which can damage it. We list the basic rules for handling a boiler (electric) in winter, which will help maintain its performance:
- It is recommended to purchase models equipped with an additional option for heating the tank: the water inside will not freeze, it will not have to be drained after the procedure;
- The large volume of the device requires early activation, so you should calculate whether it is really necessary. A boiler in a bathhouse in winter uses less hot water than a similar one at home;
- It is recommended to purchase a device with a lower power to comply with the electricity use limit (for example, in a summer cottage);
- The system for draining liquid from the water heater should be convenient, going directly into the sewer;
- The design of the connection of the system with the boiler must be made so that the safety valve does not freeze with the remaining unfused liquid;
- Install water supply pipes on the wall surface. Inside, hidden by panels and thermal insulation, the pipes will become covered with condensation, which will cause the appearance of mold and mildew;
- It should be remembered that constant draining of liquid from the water heater leads to accelerated wear of the device. The magnesium anode protects the inner surface of the tank, the heating element only while in the water. Empty container with liquid residues on the walls is not protected, over time it corrodes and fails.
Friends! More interesting materials:
How to use a storage water heater correctly
Many people can't imagine country cottage or a dacha without a bathhouse. Of course it's great to piss yourself off ice water from the tub, but this is only one of the bath procedures. To wash before and after visiting the steam room, you will need hot water. Heating water in the house and carrying it to the bathhouse in buckets is clearly not the best solution. The best option The solution to the problem is to install a water heater for the bath.
The water supply system in the bathhouse must meet the following conditions:
- Even if we are not talking about a dacha, but about a country house where people live permanently, the bathhouse, as a rule, is not heated and is not used every day, so water must be drained from the water supply system to avoid its failure due to freezing.
- The design of the water supply system for a bathhouse should be as simple as possible, because you will most likely have to carry out all operations related to operation and repair yourself.
- The device used to heat water in the water supply system must be equipped in accordance with fire safety requirements.
The heart of the bath water supply system is the water heating device, so its choice should be approached with all responsibility. Taking into account the specific conditions in which the water heater is used, the requirements for bath water heaters are as follows:
Choosing a water heater for a bath
The undoubted advantage of water heaters using natural gas as an energy source is significant cost savings. The cost of operating a gas heater may differ from the cost of operating an electric boiler by three to four times. However, the use gas water heater requires compliance with an important condition - access to the gas main. In addition, the installation of a gas heater requires approval from the local gas service. If there is no gas pipe nearby, or you don’t want to dive into the abyss of bureaucracy, then there is only one option left - electric water heater.
Boiler design
The design of electric water heaters is simple - they are an electrically insulated water container (boiler), inside the volume of which there is a tube of a heating element - a tubular electric heater. A special anode device prevents the formation of a rust layer on the boiler wall. Typically, water heaters are equipped with thermostatic devices to automatically turn off the heating element when the water temperature reaches a predetermined level. The same device will reconnect the electric heater when the water temperature drops below a certain limit. Thus, energy is saved and the water temperature is maintained within the specified ranges.
The boilers are also equipped with a safety valve that protects the container from destruction by excess pressure. As water is consumed from the boiler tank, additional water is withdrawn using one of the water intake points (several points can be used simultaneously). The principle of operation of the storage electric heater is such that it requires the tank to be filled with water, since water is drawn from the top of the tank, where, according to the laws of physics, hot water rises.
Due to the simplicity of the design, you can install an electric water heater and connect it to the water supply system of the bathhouse yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists.
Device power
As a rule, a water heater with a capacity of 1.5 - 2.5 kW is sufficient for a bathhouse, powered by a single-phase electrical network. The power requirements for a low-power boiler also do not differ in any special conditions. You will need a separate cable from the distribution board and a circuit breaker. It is also necessary to install a residual current device (RCD), which will protect bathhouse visitors from electric shock. Connecting the boiler to an outlet is not allowed, and it is not provided for by the design. The power cable is connected to the contacts inside the boiler body.
When choosing a heater model, it is necessary to take into account the need for water. Water consumption depends on the number of people who will use the bathhouse. The volume of the heater boiler should provide the required amount of water with a margin of at least 20%, however, the volume of the tank should not be excessive. Excessive boiler volume will require excessive energy consumption for heating.
If the estate has a sufficiently powerful hot water supply and heating system, you can use an indirect heating boiler in the bathhouse. In indirect heating boilers, it is not the heating element that passes through the volume of water inside the boiler, but a pipe with coolant from the heating system.
Storage water heaters for baths are not as demanding on water as instantaneous ones, however, if you want the water heater to serve you for a long time, ensure proper water quality using filters and water softening devices.
If you choose the right electric heater model, correctly comply with all connection requirements and do not neglect the quality of the water, the heater will serve you for at least 10-15 years.
It's hard to imagine Vacation home no bath or sauna. Relax, take a steam bath, relieve fatigue, or use the bathhouse as a temporary home during the construction of the main house - there are many options for use. It is not surprising that among FORUMHOUSE users Interest in the topic is growing year by year.
Our portal has already described in detail where to place it on the site, how to decorate the steam room. Let's continue the topic we started. From our material you will learn:
- What engineering communications are needed.
- How to install a simple and budget water supply system.
- What nuances need to be taken into account when installing electrical equipment?
Nuances of installation and selection of utilities in the bathhouse
Without properly constructed communications - water supply (option - we carry water from a well, we do not consider), electricity, ventilation, sewerage and drainage, normal use of the bathhouse is impossible. At the same time, due to the peculiarities of the operating mode of the bath or sauna, and this is increased humidity and temperature, engineering networks special requirements for safety of use and durability are imposed.
In addition, at the design stage it is necessary to decide whether the bathhouse will be a free-standing structure, or whether we will limit ourselves to building a simple sauna inside the house.
Practice shows that most often a bathhouse is built in the form of a separate washing and bath complex. There are options for relatively simple baths/saunas, as well as complex and expensive structures (with a SPA area and a swimming pool) used for relaxation and entertainment events.
Regardless of the use of the bathhouse, we remember the main rule: first, a project is made (based on the preferences of the owner and the expected operating mode of the “wet” room).
Now we calculate the required volume of water consumption, and also determine the required number of water collection points. This is a shower or shower stall, a sink with a mixer, a washing machine connection point, a toilet supply, a storage tank, etc.
If an electric heater is supposed to be the heat source, we calculate whether it will withstand electrical network additional load. Do not forget about the water heater for preparing hot water, and this is also an additional load on the electrical network.
We think in advance about how to supply electricity (underground or air) and water to the bathhouse. Is the well flow sufficient, how to dispose of wastewater, will the septic tank cope with the massive discharge of water, or is it necessary to design the separation of wastewater, etc.
Only after collecting all the necessary data and estimating the approximate number of people who will use the bathhouse, you can proceed to the design of utility networks and the actual construction of the bathhouse.
This approach - careful planning - will allow you to avoid costly alterations in the future, when the bathhouse/sauna has already been built. For example, it turns out that electrical wiring and the machines do not pull the connected electrical equipment, there are not enough points for, and the pump power is not enough to quickly fill a font or pool with water.
There are many features; you can write a separate article for each of them. Those wishing to find answers to the above questions are recommended to read the articles: and observe all boundaries from the treatment plant to other objects on the site, and.
Go ahead. Let's take, for example, an ordinary “budget” bathhouse - a wooden structure made of timber or logs. It is necessary to install a water supply system and conduct electrical wiring. You need to understand: what basic moments pay attention to arrange high-quality engineering communications.
Installation of water supply in a bathhouse
The first thing you should think about when designing a water supply system in a bathhouse is its operating mode - year-round or seasonal. If you do not plan to use the bathhouse in winter, or it is intended to be started only on weekends, it is necessary to ensure that water is drained from the pipes and from the plumbing fixtures (for example, the toilet). If this is not done, then negative temperatures the water will freeze and may burst the pipes.
Our users solve this problem in different ways.
Kolek2575 Member FORUMHOUSE
I plan to install a stove with a water heat exchanger on a pipe in the bathhouse. Frosts here reach -30°C. I haven't decided what to do with the water yet. If you leave it, it will tear it apart. Drain every time?
According to experienced participants, there can be two options: either drain the water, or prevent the bathhouse from freezing. For example, on the advice Dokainfo, We use a self-regulating heating cable.
After completing the bath procedures, the water is drained from the heating tank and shower cabin. To ensure that water flows freely into the well, we place it on a submersible pump. check valve.
When installing such a system, we provide the necessary slopes of the pipes so that the water flows freely by gravity.
But the heating cable presents additional installation difficulties. Power outages are also possible. If a pumping station is used to create pressure in the water supply system, then the hydraulic accumulator becomes the bottleneck. If you visit the bathhouse infrequently in winter, you will also have to drain the water from it or completely dismantle the station and store it in a warm room.
Interesting are the methods of water supply for baths that users of our portal use in the winter.
Sanap User FORUMHOUSE
In the summer, to provide the bathhouse with water, I use a pumping station + an electric water heater is installed. As soon as the temperature drops below zero, I drain all the water from the water supply, and in winter I use imported water to operate the bathhouse. For 2-3 people, 50-70 liters are enough to wash. For contrasting procedures, we wipe ourselves with snow.
Also interesting is the user's experience with the nickname 8k84r. The water supply for the bathhouse is done this way - water is pumped from the well by a submersible pump. Above the steam room, in a heated room, a hydraulic accumulator is mounted, as well as an electric storage boiler for heating water in the summer. Plus an open system with a tank, fed from a hydraulic accumulator.
Upon departure, all taps are opened and the water is drained into the sewer. Turn off the pump and air the pump line. Everything takes about 5 minutes. Having arrived, we flood the bathhouse, close the taps and turn on the power to the pump.
For clarity, we offer a diagram of the bath water supply system from Putnik2008.
Note: to heat the water, a copper pipe bent into a spiral is used, which is laid on the stones of an electric heater.
A 30 liter canister is used as a storage tank.
Putnik2008 User FORUMHOUSE
Also, for a simple bathhouse plumbing scheme, you can mount a 200-liter container in the “attic,” which will provide sufficient water pressure when you open the tap, or to wash in the shower. After completing the bath procedures, we leave the tap open for 15 minutes while the water flows by gravity back into the well, but such a Spartan system, of course, is not suitable for everyone.
The bottleneck of the gravity system, with irregular use of the bathhouse in winter, may be the depth of freezing, which depends on the region. To prevent the pipeline from freezing, it is laid below the freezing depth, a heating cable is used, or it is insulated.
The article describes how to make a simple and effective winter water supply that will not freeze at sub-zero temperatures and does not require a heating cable.
Features of installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse
A complete water supply system for a bathhouse is impossible without a reliable power supply to the pump, which provides the necessary water pressure in the water supply. In addition: lighting, electrical appliances used in the bathhouse, water heaters, etc., also need to be connected to the electrical network.
Moreover, unlike an ordinary home, a bathhouse/sauna is a place with high humidity and temperatures, which means that special requirements are imposed on the electrical network to guarantee its safe operation.
T0lyanych User FORUMHOUSE
A bathhouse is a wet room, therefore the wiring in the bathhouse is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the PUE for saunas, bathrooms and showers.
Hence: in the steam room and in the washing room there should be no electrical appliances such as a washing machine, sockets, distribution boxes and switches. This equipment is located in the recreation room, and a separate wire goes to each light bulb (in a splash-proof housing) in the steam room and wash room. If an electric heater is used for heating, then to connect it we use a solid cable coming from the distribution panel located in the rest room or dressing room.
According to the PUE, clause 7.1.40. In saunas for zones 3 and 4 in accordance with GOST R 50571.12-96 "Electrical installations of buildings. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations. Section 703. In rooms containing sauna heaters", electrical wiring with a permissible insulation temperature of 170 ° C must be used.
We choose special lamps/lamps - sealed, designed for use in damp rooms. The seal between the base and the lampshade should be made of heat-resistant silicone, and not rubber, which can crumble when exposed to high temperatures.
The degree of protection of the lamp is IP54. A distribution board, all switches, sockets and pumping stations are installed in the rest room. In addition to preventing electrical shock, this will help prevent premature equipment failure due to corrosion caused by moisture in the washroom.
T0lyanych
Do not forget about installing a separate grounding near the bathhouse, even if the main grounding is installed in the house.
These are the basics of installing electrics in a bathhouse. Let's move on to practice. As experience shows, greatest number Questions arise regarding the choice of electric cable for the bathhouse, the method of its wiring, as well as safe options for electric lighting for the washing room and steam room.
A shower in a bathhouse can be done in different ways. Most simplest option– installation of a dousing device (bucket) to which water is supplied.
Such a bucket shower for a bath can be bought in a specialized store. There are models into which water is poured from a regular bucket, and there are those into which water is supplied from a tap. Turning on and off the water supply is controlled by a float (a device similar to that found in waste tanks).
Bucket shower for a bath
How to heat water for a shower in a bathhouse
You can heat water for a shower either using electric heaters - a flow-through or storage water heater, a “wet” heating element, or using a remote tank and a heat exchanger in a wood-burning stove.
A flowing water heater for a shower in a bathhouse is a pleasure that is not available to everyone. And it’s not about the price, but about the requirements that this equipment places on both the water supply and the electrical network. Instantaneous water heater operates at a certain pressure cold water. This problem can be solved by installing a pump (its capacity must be at least 8 liters/min). But in any case, the water will only be heated if electricity is available, and there will be no supply of warm water - this is a running water heater, after all. In addition, only a heater with a power of no more than 8 kW is connected to the 220V network, which will provide warm water to only one water collection point. If you need to have two hot water taps, you will need a device with a power of 13 kW, and it is powered from a 380 V network. Even if you are satisfied with an eight-kilowatt instantaneous water heater for a shower, then when you turn it on, there will most likely be a significant drop in the voltage in the network: in suburban networks this is not uncommon, but the neighbors are unlikely to be happy about such a turn.
Storage water heaters for showers are more economical. The power they consume is usually 2-3 kW, depending on the volume of the drive, but it is difficult to find a capacity of more than 150 liters. Moreover, such a tank is already of decent size, although there are storage tanks of different shapes - horizontal and vertical cylinders, there are also rectangular ones - it’s easier to find a place for them, but you still have to worry about installing it. A good option is to install a heater in the attic.
There is another simple way to organize hot water in a bathhouse: a heating element is installed in the water tank; in the simplest case, a boiler is lowered. There is an outlet from the tank either to the mixer or directly to the shower head with a tap or mixer. When directly connecting a warm water tank to a shower head, you need to consider a temperature control system so as not to get burned by overly hot water.
These are, in general, all the options for an “electric” shower for a bath. Read more about how to choose a water heater for a bath here.
Important! When using electric heating elements, never forget about electrical safety. Even a new heating element or boiler can “punch” into the body.
There is also a typical “sauna” method: heat water in a tank using heat from a burning stove (read about stoves with water tanks here). There is a method from previous years - wood-burning titanium, which, nevertheless, is successfully used today. Here is an effective, working one, real way organize a shower in the bathhouse without using electricity.
Scheme of arranging a shower in a bathhouse or sauna
This scheme, with some modifications, will work when using a remote water tank, the water in which is heated from a heat exchanger in a metal or brick oven, and with a tank on a pipe (installed at a sufficient height). In general, the scheme is good. Instead of hand pump you can install an electric one, but then the circuit will only work if there is a power supply.
We have chosen a way to heat the water, but now we need cold and hot water to be supplied to the mixers. If the tank is hot water is located low, to ensure the required pressure in the system, pumps are provided to increase the water pressure. Shower pumps can be of several types:
- Small pumping stations are a more expensive option. But they have automatic protection that will monitor the pressure in the system (it will turn off if there is a problem in the electrical network, etc.).
- Boost pumps. They also turn on automatically when the pressure in the system decreases, but the type of pump and its characteristics must be selected separately for each water supply system. Their disadvantage is that if there is no pressure accumulator in the system, when the pump is turned on/off, the water pressure noticeably “jumps”.
- Garden pumps. The cheapest option, but they do not have any automation, therefore, you need to turn them on/off manually.
If possible, it is easier to install a tank for cold and hot water in the bathhouse on the second floor or in the attic and not bother with pumps, which are not at all easy to select for hot water.
Option to install a water tank at a height higher than the ceiling height
Shower stall and drain
There are many options for shower stalls: from simplest pipe, built into the walls, along which a waterproof curtain “rides” on rings, to a super-modern (or not super) shower stall. What types of shower cabins there are, read here. From experience we can say that if a cabin is installed in a bathhouse, then it is the most primitive one - walls, a door and a tray, and in principle nothing more is needed. This is an option for those who do not want to bother with waterproofing adjacent walls and like quick solutions.
Bath shower with titanium
In general, if the layout does not provide for a separate shower small room, you can fence off part of the washing compartment where the drainage system should be organized. If there is no drain, you will have to arrange one.
If you plan to install a pallet, you need a separate concrete base with a connected drain pipe. The base is needed so that the plastic of the tray does not “walk” under the weight of a person, since most bath showers contain plastic products - they are inexpensive and correct installation They are quite durable, and the plastic bends under the weight of even a not very large person.
If a tray is not provided and the floor is wooden, you need to protect it from water. To do this, galvanized metal is laid in the area where the shower stall will be installed, and the joints of the sheets are carefully sealed with silicone sealant (for example, Ceresit CS 25). The reinforcement for the screed is laid on the metal with a slope towards the drain, everything is poured cement mortar. Floor tiles are laid on the fresh mortar (while maintaining the slope), and its joints are also well coated with silicone. Instead of galvanized metal, you can use modern films for waterproofing. In this case they must be reinforced.
If the walls in the shower stall are wooden, they need protection from water. You can protect them with ceramic tiles, plastic panels, or simply lay sheets of plastic of a suitable size, sealing the joints with the same silicone. Under any type of finish, it is also advisable to lay a layer of waterproofing. In the simplest case, it is a plastic film that is attached to the walls using staples from a construction stapler or strips and nails, and it is advisable to seal the resulting holes with reinforced tape.
Plastic shower panels are a budget option for protecting walls in a shower stall; anyone can handle the installation. At the first stage, they are attached to the walls metal profiles, from which the frame-sheathing of the walls is assembled. Plastic panels are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws with a wide head, which are connected to one another using a lock. The connection is sealed (you just need to be careful not to damage the rather fragile edges of the locks). In the external and internal corners, special corners are used, which are sold in the same place as the panels; baseboards are reinforced at the top and bottom. Indeed, there is nothing complicated, but the appearance is like that of a monolithic wall and the protection from water is almost 100%.
The general principles of how to make a shower in a bathhouse are outlined, but how to do it is up to everyone to decide for themselves. There are simply a lot of options here, because you can simply hang a bucket shower and tip it over, or build a full-fledged shower stall with automatic hot water supply. Below are real photos of the shower in the bathhouse. Maybe you'll find an idea for yourself...
Sprinkler + shower
If anyone thinks that to set up a washing room it is enough to hang two pipes with a mixer on the wall, then he is deeply mistaken. Thinking about arranging a separate bathhouse wash room necessary even during the design of the structure. At the same time, you should choose the final version of the shower and think through issues regarding the supply of hot and cold water. At your discretion, we will present several options for arranging flushing facilities; we hope that this knowledge will facilitate the final choice. Later in the article we will give step by step instructions the most used type of washing machine and practical advice from professionals.
Room placement options
The optimal location of the shower room is an adjacent room with a steam room.
The room should not be a walk-through room; if year-round use is proposed, then heating must be installed. It can be heated either while heating the bath using a heat exchanger built into the boiler, or autonomously.
For autonomous heating, it is better to use ordinary safe electric heaters (quick and cheap) or use water heating for all additional rooms of the bathhouse.
If desired, you can put a shower stall in the corner of the room or simply fence off the reception area water procedures sliding curtain. The specific option and size of the washing room depends on the size of the bathhouse and the financial resources of the developers.
Floors and water drainage
Water drainage must be done during the construction of the building. As a rule, water is discharged into special storage tanks using plastic or metal pipes. We recommend making solid wood floors; drains with cracks are not recommended. The drainage system and floors must be made in accordance with building codes, otherwise they may be non-functional and their service life will be significantly reduced.
Engineering Communication
There are two options for laying utility lines: closed under the wall cladding and open. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Option for laying communications DescriptionAdvantages and disadvantages
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This refers to electrical wiring and plumbing. Work should be carried out before finishing the interior. | Advantages: all utility networks are hidden from view, increased decorative characteristics. Disadvantages: difficulty in performing routine technical and repair work. If leaks occur, the wooden structures of the building may be significantly damaged. |
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Installation is carried out after finishing the interior walls of the washing room. | Advantages: equipment can be replaced at any time without much loss of time and money. Disadvantages: the presence of various pipelines does not decorate the room. |
During the installation of utility networks, several mandatory conditions must be met.
Methods for heating water for showers
Very important and one of the most technically difficult questions. Much depends on the frequency of use of the bathhouse or shower and the technical characteristics of utility networks. We offer three options to solve the problem.
At this point, the theoretical and preparatory part can be considered completed; you can proceed to the installation instructions.
Materials for arranging a shower room
It’s not worth talking about mixers, despite the huge variety of models there is not much difference between them, but it’s advisable to remember about pipes.
Type of pipesAdvantages and disadvantages
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Pros: durability and high resistance to mechanical damage. Disadvantages - high price, difficult to install, you need to have special welding and metalworking equipment, high specific gravity (not all wall cladding of the washing room can be installed). |
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The cheapest, installation of the water supply can be completely completed in a few hours. Disadvantages - heating temperature cannot exceed +60°C, appearance very far from modern requirements. |
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What you need in all respects. They occupy an intermediate position in terms of cost; their appearance and reliability completely satisfy the majority of consumers. We recommend choosing this option. |
Practical advice. Foil-reinforced pipes can withstand significant heating temperatures, and deformation or rupture of the pipeline is completely eliminated. However, polypropylene pipes even without foil reinforcement do not lose their original strength characteristics when heated above +100°C. No professional has ever seen deformed pipelines in a washroom. And the price of reinforced pipes exceeds the cost of ordinary pipes by about a third.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a shower
Among all the options for arranging a wash room, we will select the most commonly used one. In our opinion, it can really satisfy the majority of bathhouse owners.
Initial data. The water supply will be installed over the casing; polypropylene pipes will be used.
The pipes to the washing room have already been supplied, shut-off valves for hot and cold water have been installed.
Pipes can be mounted under the ceiling or near the floor. There is no difference; each method has equal positive and negative sides.
Step 1. On paper, draw a diagram of the water supply system indicating the location of the mixer. Take your time, try several options. Consider the mounting height of the mixer taking into account the method of hot water supply. If it is supplied under pressure, the mixer can be placed high, when the water flows by gravity from the storage tank, then its location must be taken into account.
Step 2. Transfer your diagram to the wall. Carefully draw the pipe laying lines with a pencil and determine the distance between them. Count the number of fittings, additional elements, fasteners and shut-off valves. If the bathhouse is not used in winter, then you need to drain the water.
Step 3. Measure the length of the pipes. Calculate everything again and go to the store for materials. To make the connection you will need a special soldering iron; it is relatively inexpensive and will always come in handy around the house. The soldering iron comes with scissors for cutting pipes.
Everything is prepared - installation can begin. Work begins with the installation of plastic supports on the wall. Depending on the distance between the pipes, you can use single or double ones; the supports are fixed with self-tapping screws. The distance between them is within 30÷35 cm, do not increase it - over time, the plastic pipes will sag.
Practical advice. Buy several ordinary couplings; with their help you can correct mistakes made during taking dimensions.
Important. All metal threaded connections of fittings are made of stainless alloys with low physical strength. When tightening, do not apply much force; the threaded part can easily break off.
There is another problem associated with low strength. If your mixer is quite heavy, then cracks will certainly appear at the joints over time due to physical fatigue of the metal resulting from prolonged exposure to minor forces. Advice - choose lighter faucet models.
These leaks, by the way, are very invisible to the eye. The water does not stream out, but only drips; one gets the impression that the sealing of the threaded connection was poorly done. Inexperienced craftsmen quickly begin to remove the faucet and break off the end of the threaded connection; it remains in the fitting or tap (depending on the faucet model). It is quite difficult to unscrew a piece of broken thread; you need to have or make special tools yourself.
The mixer will be attached to a combination coupling with an external thread; the fitting will be fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws.
How to properly solder polypropylene pipes
Everything seems simple if you have experience, but soldering for the first time is scary.
It is necessary to mark the pipes before welding (see information below)
Step 1. Screw couplings to the front of the soldering iron to heat the internal or external surfaces of pipes and fittings. For showers, we recommend using Ø ¾″ pipes. The pipe is heated on the outer surfaces, the connecting elements (couplings, triangles, elbows, etc.) on the inner ones. 
Step 2. Connect the soldering iron to a 220 V network. On the body of the device there is a heating temperature regulator and two indicator lights. Green indicates that the soldering iron is ready for use, red indicates that the heating temperature is insufficient.
Turn on the soldering iron and wait until the green light comes on
Step 3. Set the temperature controller to +250°C. Specific values do not play a big role; the degree of heating of the pipe is regulated by the holding time.
Step 4. Take the two elements to be connected and insert them each into their place in the soldering iron. Heat for approximately 5-9 seconds. The ends must fit into the heaters until they stop.
We heat the couplings along the inner surface
Practical advice. The instructions for the soldering iron contain a table indicating the heating time of the pipe depending on its diameter. Don’t pay attention to it, just watch the degree of softening of the plastic. You don’t heat the entire thickness of the pipe, but only upper layer 1 mm thick. The radius of the pipe does not matter, which means the heating time remains almost unchanged.
This also explains why you should not use a soldering iron heating temperature table. We advise you to always set it to maximum - the pipe will warm up much faster.
Step 5. The surface of the heated plastic pipe should resemble thick sour cream. Once such softening is achieved, remove the elements simultaneously from both sides of the soldering iron.
Important. Be sure to do it on both sides at the same time, otherwise big problems arise - the soldering iron does not have a side stop.
Step 6. Connect the two heated planes together as quickly as possible, keeping them as level as possible. You need to hold it in the clamped state for 10÷15 seconds, the exact time depends on the heating temperature of the plastic. As you can see, almost all parameters and modes of pipe welding are determined not by instructions, but by the experience of the master. Experience will appear already on the second or third gluing, gain skills on unnecessary segments.
How to take dimensions and cut polypropylene pipes
Step 1. After you have marked the position of the pipes on the wall and secured the plastic clamps, you can begin to install the pipes.
Take measurements with maximum accuracy. Please note that the connections are permanent and non-adjustable.
Step 2. Start assembling the pipes from the entry point. Screw the couplings to the taps with internal thread. To seal threaded connections, use FUM tape; it holds the connection well and does not require much effort for complete sealing.
Step 3. First lay one pipe to the junction with the mixer, and then start working on the second. To make connections close to the wall, lift the heated soldering iron from the stand, insert one heating element into the hole in the coupling near the wall, and push a piece of pipe of the required length into the second. Hold the device level, the axis of the heating elements should coincide with the axis of the pipe.
Step 4. After 5-8 seconds, simultaneously remove the heating elements from the coupling and pipe, place it on the stand and quickly insert the heated end of the pipe into the coupling.
Very important. During cooling, it is strictly prohibited to move the pipe and coupling together. If you end up with a misaligned connection, leave it that way.
During further installation, the plastic pipe can be bent slightly and thus correct the error. If you start to turn the connection while it is cooling, the seal will definitely break. It will be possible to find out about this only after filling the water supply with water. But it is very difficult to fix; you will have to completely cut out the old connections and install new ones. For such purposes, we have already advised above to have several additional couplings in stock.
Important. The length of the soldering joint of the pipe and fitting in each element is 15 mm, this must always be taken into account when taking dimensions. If, for example, the distance from the pipe to the corner is 20 centimeters, then you need to cut the pipe to a length of 23 cm (1.5 cm on each side for welding).
You can cut the tubes with special scissors, which are included with a soldering iron, hacksaw or grinder. Make the cut as perpendicular to the axis of the pipe as possible. If there are burrs, remove them with any tool you have at hand.
This will avoid two problems:
- if you heat the ends at a greater distance, the melted polypropylene during connection will significantly reduce the nominal diameter of the pipe;
- all connections will have the same length, minimizing the risk of problems when connecting subsequent elements.
If you are working with pipes reinforced with aluminum foil, then you need to carefully ensure that during the connection it remains intact along the entire length of the heated section.
Continue welding the water pipe to the point where the mixer is fixed. Once you've finished making the cold pipe, move on to the hot one. Problems may arise when cornering. If you do not follow the dimensions, the distance between the pipes after turning will not be the same. This is considered a defect, especially when you used paired supports to fix the pipes on the wall. How to prevent such a situation? The last segments before the turn should have a difference in length equal to the distance between the paired supports. Always remember this rule.
How to mount the faucet
One of the most difficult operations, several parameters must be observed simultaneously: the horizontal position of the corners with external threads and the distance between them. The mixer is fixed to the wall elbows, and it must be in a strictly horizontal position. How to get the job done the first time? Begin precise position control after both pipes have passed the last turn.
Step 1. Find out the distance between the ends of the elbows and the exact location of the mixer installation. Remember to add 15 mm on each side for the length of the weld.
Important. The distance between two vertical sections of pipes should be equal to the distance between the mixer adapters installed in the uppermost position. The adapters have offset centers, which allows you to adjust their exact position by a few millimeters. By installing them in the middle position, you get the opportunity to make adjustments both vertically and horizontally. This property allows minor mistakes to be corrected without problems after welding pipes.
Step 2. Weld the upper ends of the pipes, then attach end angles with internal threads to them.
Step 3. Temporarily screw the mixer to the fittings, lean it firmly against the wall and mark the position of the mounting holes.
Step 4. Dismantle the mixer and, in turn, firmly fix each of the two threaded end angles with self-tapping screws.
Step 5. Using sealing tape, screw the faucet down.
If it is difficult for you to do such work or you plan to connect other plumbing equipment to the mixer, you can use a mounting strip to mount it on the wall. It has standard distances between threaded connections. The end outlets of the installation strip can be temporarily plugged with special plugs or the continuation of the pipelines can be immediately connected.
Do not rush to solder all connections one by one. There are often cases when you need to skip one spike, perform the next one, and then return to the missed one. The fact is that you have to put soldering irons against the wall, and this is not always convenient; previously installed pipes and connections can interfere. In such cases, you need to first weld in the most inconvenient places, and then work in easily accessible ones.
Intermediate mounting strip
If you have problems of this kind and you don’t know how to solve them, don’t get upset and don’t waste time coming up with different options. It is better to cut a section of pipe, solder the two ends separately, and then use a coupling to connect the cut parts. We don’t argue that the additional coupling does not serve as decoration, but it is better to go this route than to redo the installation work.
Video - Plumbing
Video - Installation of plastic pipes
Video - How to solder polypropylene pipes
How to make a shower in a bathhouse with your own hands
The question of how to make a shower in a bathhouse arises if you want to have a full-fledged bathhouse in your own possession. This device has many different constructive solutions– from a simple turning over bucket (“Russian shower”) to an automated year-round shower cabin with various functions. How to make a hot shower in a bathhouse?
This problem is solved based on economic considerations, by installing ready-made equipment or making the system yourself. The most important thing is that you can do a shower yourself, but you need to listen to the advice of experts. 
Features of designing a bath shower
A shower in a bathhouse is considered a necessary functional element for washing the body after a steam room.. If in the old days such an element was replaced by a river or a large tub with cold water, then in our time everyone strives to install a shower stall. Moreover, normal condition It is considered that there is not only cold but also hot water in the shower.
A modern Russian bathhouse, as a rule, has a separate room - a washing room, in which a shower cabin is installed.
If the bathhouse has running water (cold and hot) and a sewer outlet, then there is no problem with how to make a shower in the bathhouse - just install a storage tank and a water sprayer.
Most often, a bathhouse is built without a water supply and sewage system, and therefore the following problems arise: installing a water tank on top; raising water to fill the container; heating water to the desired temperature; ensuring sewerage of waste water. By their nature, there are two main types of shower cabins: summer and year-round (winter) options. In the summer version, it is enough to install a metal container where the water will be heated sun rays. A year-round shower requires artificial, controlled heating of water.
How to ensure water accumulation
The first task when deciding how to make a shower in a bathhouse is to provide it with water. First, its source is found. In addition to the plumbing system, water can be taken from an open reservoir (lake, river, pond) or from underground storage (ground or spring water). In order to supply water to the storage tank, a pump and a pipe system are needed.
If there is an open reservoir, a conventional surface centrifugal pump is installed, which takes water from the source through a hose and delivers it through a pipe into the container. The main problem with such water is contamination, which means a filter system is needed for coarse and fine purification. In addition, it is advisable to take care of biological water purification.
Groundwater has natural filtration and does not require additional purification. The problem is that to obtain such water it is necessary to build a well and install a deep well pump. If the groundwater is shallow, as a rule, a well is dug and a submersible pump is installed, which is much cheaper than a borehole apparatus. Of course, installing a well or well is not a cheap undertaking, but they are usually built not only for showers, but also to obtain water for domestic needs.
After solving the issue with the water source, you should choose a storage tank. Currently, many different types of containers made of plastic and metal are sold, incl. stainless steel, which is considered the best option for a shower tank. IN simple souls Economy class uses a metal barrel with a volume of 100-200 liters as a container. As a result, the entire water supply system looks like this: water source, pump, pipeline, container with valve and spray nozzle. Pump control can be manual, but most often automatic shutdown is used. float system, which turns off the pump at the maximum water level in the tank and turns it on when it drops below the control mark.
How to ensure water heating
The question of how to make a shower in a bath with heated water can be resolved different ways. The simplest is the summer option. In this case, the container is located on the roof of the bathhouse, and heating is carried out naturally, from the sun's rays.
Another question often arises: how to make a shower in a bathhouse from a stove? In this case, two ways are possible: installing a tank heated from sauna stove or its chimney and heating in the oven using the “per pass” system. In the latter case, a coil is installed in the stove, through which water flows from the pump to the shower storage tank. Taking into account the difficulty of controlling the heating of water from the stove, a mixer with valves for both hot and cold water should be provided at the shower outlet. Two pipelines must fit into the storage tank: cold and hot water.
Water heating can be carried out using more modern methods using devices designed for this:
- Gas heater. Such a heater in the form of a regular gas water heater is used if a centralized gas supply is supplied to the area. This system heats water per pass and can create a build-up of hot water in the tank.
- Flow-through electric heater. Such heaters are produced with a power of 3-8 kW and are capable of heating water per pass to a temperature of approximately 72-75 degrees.
- Thermal electric heaters for containers. One of the most common methods of heating water in a bath shower. They provide heating of water in 100-200 liter containers to a temperature of 95-100 degrees. Such heaters have big advantage– they quickly heat a large volume of water, which can then be used for a long time.
- Use of standard containers with built-in electric heater. Such tanks with a capacity of 90-250 liters are available with automatic and manual heating control systems. Some types of devices are equipped with a thermostat, which makes it possible to pre-set desired temperature heating water.
Drain arrangement
When building a bathhouse, a disposal system must be provided Wastewater. Most often, a cesspool up to 3 m deep is installed with a distance of at least 4-6 m from the bathhouse foundation. When installing a shower, its drainage system is also directed into this pit. If a shower is installed in an already built bathhouse, then a section of the floor with an area of 1.2 x 1.2 m is dismantled in the washing room.
In the center of this site is formed drainer, from which the pipe is diverted to cesspool. The pipe is laid with a slope to ensure gravity flow of water. In place of the disassembled floor, a concrete screed is poured with a slope on all sides in the direction of the drainage hole. A wooden grate is installed on top of the screed. A polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 45-80 mm is usually used as a drain. It is advisable to install a drain on the drain hole to eliminate the smell.
How to do a shower in a bathhouse
It is best to provide a shower stall immediately when building a bathhouse. The most suitable option is a nook in the washing room. During construction small-sized bathhouse a small shower can be installed in the steam room. The optimal shower area is 1.2x1.2 or 1.2x1.5 m. However, if there is a need to save space, sometimes a shower room measuring 90x90 cm, or even 80x80 cm is installed. Another placement option is an isolated corner with an entrance from the dressing room.
A modern Russian bathhouse, as a rule, is equipped with a shower to wash away sweat after a steam room, create a contrasting temperature effect, and simply provide a calming effect after extreme temperatures. A shower stall can easily be made with your own hands, both simultaneously with the construction of the bathhouse and during its operation.
Bath water supply: types and installation
Today people no longer use rocker arms and buckets to fetch water for a bath. Modern buildings have automated delivery systems that make it possible to consume the required amount of it in hot and cold form all year round. We will tell you how to organize such a system in our article. - Water supply materials
- Installation of a water supply system
- Hot water supply
A competent water supply is a clean flow of water under a comfortable and constant pressure designed to heat it. The availability of water is a pressing issue; without it, neither hygienic nor health procedures in the steam room are unthinkable. It is not difficult to make a water supply in the bathhouse with your own hands. It is much more difficult to organize a water source for it when one does not exist near the building.
Types of bath water supply
There are two main seasonal types of water supply to bath buildings, let's look at them.
The first, simplest type is the summer supply of water to the bathhouse. This system is designed to operate only during the warm season. Water is delivered, in addition to the bathhouse, to other buildings located on the site. The system is built sequentially, when its branches are connected to the supply water pipe as necessary to distribute water to all its consumers. When cold weather sets in, water is removed from the summer system by gravity to its lowest point through the drain valve.
The second type is a winter water supply option. Its difference from summer water supply lies in the possibility of general and selective water supply to a particular building. In addition, the pipeline is equipped with a heating cable installed in its cavity and a valve for supplying or turning off water in the selected room. The cable prevents water from freezing in cold areas of the water main. To take a steam bath, just open the water supply by turning the shut-off valve. At the end of the procedures, the pipeline is closed in the same way, and the water from the system is removed by gravity into the sewer network.
To supply water to a bathhouse in winter, there is also an electronic option for controlling the distribution of water flows through the pipeline system. Water supply to buildings is carried out remotely using a distribution block, which is installed near the water source and controlled by pressing the necessary keys from the buildings connected to the system.
Sources of bath water supply
Depending on the source of water, the water supply for a bathhouse can have the following options: from a well, from a borehole, from rainwater storage tanks, from the central water supply system of the house.Water supply for a bathhouse from a well
Quite often, this option for providing a bathhouse with water seems to be the only possible one, but some of its disadvantages should be taken into account:
- Sudden changes in water levels depending on the weather or season, so during dry periods the well's resources may be insufficient.
- Well water usually contains suspended particles, since its natural filtration during rains or floods may not cope with its task.
- In winter, the well head requires insulation, otherwise there is a high probability of water freezing in it.
Advice! To reduce noise when the pump operates, you can equip it with a receiver for 50 liters of water, this will help equalize and maintain the pressure in the system, which is of no small importance for heating water in the bathhouse.
Water supply for a bathhouse from a well
When choosing a water supply for a bathhouse from a well, it is necessary to place a pump in the source, which will pump water into a storage tank as it is consumed.
There are two types of water wells:
- Sand wells. Their service life is from 5 to 15 years, it depends on the volume of the aquifer and the rate of water consumption. The average depth of wells is 10-25 m. One well produces about 1 m3 of water per hour. With temporary seasonal use, it gradually silts up.
- Artesian wells. Their water is of high quality, requires almost no filtration and is extracted from a depth of more than 30 m. The installation of an artesian well is very labor-intensive and costly, but for 50 years you won’t have to worry about water supply problems.
Bath water supply with rainwater
The main vulnerability of this option is dependence on natural vagaries. The basis of a rainwater water supply system consists of two elements:
- Storage tank made of environmentally friendly material;
- Distribution - ordinary water pipes designed to deliver water to the bathhouse.
Bath water supply from the central water supply system of the house
This is the simplest version of a bath water supply system, which does not require searching for and arranging water sources. When locating a bathhouse in an area with an existing water supply, you need to obtain permission from the owner, make a connection to the house, bring pipes to your building, make their internal wiring and connect plumbing fixtures.
Materials for bath water supply
To transport water to the bathhouse from any source, pipes are required, which are made of various materials:
- . They are indispensable when installing the external water supply of a bathhouse. Such products are elastic, which allows them to bend during installation. The pipes are securely connected to each other using special soldering.
- Metal-plastic pipes. They are most often used for internal water supply in bathhouses.
- Steel pipes. They are now rarely used for baths due to their rapid corrosion.
- Copper pipes. They have excellent performance characteristics, but do not withstand competition in the market due to their high price.
Installation of a bath water supply system
After preparing the water supply source for the bath, pipes are laid out and the corresponding equipment is connected to them indoors. Installation of a pipeline to a bathhouse used only in summer period, can be performed in simplified ways.
The water pipeline can be made on top of the ground and dismantled with the onset of cold weather, as well as laid underground at a shallow depth to avoid it mechanical damage walking or garden carts. For winter water supply, pipes are laid below the soil freezing level and insulated.
External work must be performed in this order:
- A trench of the required depth is dug from the water source to the bathhouse.
- At the bottom there is a sand cushion on which the pipes need to be laid.
- The products are connected to each other using special fittings.
- The pump is installed and connected.
- A water heater is being installed.
- A pumping station is installed in a specially designated convenient location.
- Water purification filters are installed.
- The installation and distribution of pipes in the bathhouse is carried out according to the principle: first, vertical risers are installed, and then their horizontal branches.
- Plumbing fixtures are connected to the pipe outlets.
Hot water supply for baths
Any bathhouse, even when used in summer time years, requires hot water. Before making hot water supply in the bathhouse, you need to choose one of its methods:
- Hot water is supplied to the bathhouse from the house through the water supply in any quantity and at any time. If the house has a well-organized hot water supply all year round, it would be rational to connect the bathhouse to the general system.
- Autonomous method. It requires the installation of a water heater. Its type, type and brand must be selected taking into account the optimal energy sources for use. Storage heaters from Gorenje and Electrolux are practical and convenient. They only require one reliable outlet. Such heaters compete with flow-through similar devices, but for full-fledged work, especially in winter, instantaneous heaters must have appropriate power and use a three-phase connection.
- Hot water supply can be provided using electric or gas boilers, which can be flow-through or storage.
- Hot water can be obtained by heating it in a tank from a stove.
That's all science! If you wish and have time, you can supply the water to the bathhouse yourself. Surely pure water any temperature will please your household. Author: editors of TutKnow.ru
The presence of water in the bathhouse significantly increases the comfort of taking water procedures and facilitates the preparation of the bathhouse. In addition, there is no need to allocate special places in the premises for water containers, and there is no need to periodically fill these containers with water.
In the absence of running water, the barrels are filled with extra water, the excess after the bath is poured onto the floor, otherwise it will freeze in the winter and the ice will damage the containers, and in the summer, as a result of the water standing for a long time, various microorganisms and bacteria multiply in it - the water acquires an unpleasant color and smell.
There is another advantage of running water in a bathhouse - the amount of water poured under the bathhouse is significantly reduced, and this is always a problem for wooden structures and foundations.
Water supply in the bathhouse is convenient and economical
How can you bring water into a bathhouse with your own hands, what equipment is required for this and what construction works should be done? To accept optimal solution in each specific case, you should familiarize yourself with existing species and bath water supply schemes.
Types of water supply
Depending on the frequency of use of the bathhouse, water supply can be summer or all-season.
Summer water supply
The simplest, but also the most inconvenient method of water supply.
Advantages
Water pipes are laid along the surface of the site; a large volume of work is not required earthworks for digging trenches. You can use cheap soft hoses, the number of expensive plumbing fittings is significantly reduced, the hoses can be laid along the shortest route from the water source to the bathhouse. And the main advantage is the low cost of arranging a summer water supply.
Flaws
Every season, the hoses must be removed to a warm room and the surface pipes must be completely drained of water. If overnight frosts suddenly hit, the hoses and pipes may fail, and purchasing new ones will require a considerable amount of money. But the most main drawback– inability to take bath procedures in winter. If there is a need to use a bathhouse in the winter, then you need to install water containers in the premises and carry them in buckets.
Summer water supply is done in extreme cases, and then only as a temporary solution to the problem. There are several reasons that do not allow you to immediately install a winter water supply, and this is not only a lack of finances. For example, construction work may continue on the site at other sites, which does not allow digging trenches in the required places, or it is possible to connect to common utility networks, but it takes time to coordinate various permits, etc.
As practice shows, even those owners of bathhouses who initially provided summer water supply, eventually convert it to winter water supply. Therefore, we advise you to immediately make a winter option, not to waste time and money on temporary water pipes.
Advantages
The main thing is the uninterrupted availability of water at any time of the year. There is no need to monitor the air temperature and worry about the safety of pipes and hoses during sudden frosts. In addition, time is not wasted on periodically dismantling equipment and reconnecting it.
Flaws
The main disadvantage is the increase in the estimated cost of the work and the purchase of equipment. The second disadvantage is the rather large volume of excavation work and the occurrence of problems associated with such work.
Conclusion - do winter water supply anyway, in the end it will give you the opportunity to save money and time. Better to use it once cash to a real water supply, rather than first installing a temporary one, and then switching to winter anyway.
Now let's look at what equipment is used to supply water to the bathhouse.
Pumps and pipes for water supply
There are a huge number of household pumps for supplying water; they differ widely in technical characteristics. When choosing a specific model and type, you need to consider individual characteristics bath water supply: depth of water intake, supply height, length of pipelines and the need to automate water intake. Let's look at each type of pump in more detail.
Float
Installed on the surface of the water intake of open water sources: pond, river or well. Suitable only for summer water supply.
Flaws– relatively low power and lack of built-in automatic on/off systems, can only operate at positive temperatures, require the installation of water tanks.
Advantages– independence from the water level in the source, float pumps float on the surface of the water intake, the suction pipe is always under water, and rises/falls with it.
Submersible
They are immersed under water to a shallow depth, and after immersion they are fixed with stainless steel cables or strong polyamide ropes.
Advantages– can be used at sub-zero temperatures – are constantly located under the surface of the water.
This same advantage can be disadvantage– when the water level in the source drops significantly, the suction pipe becomes exposed and the pump stops working. They are not very powerful, require separate water storage tanks, and do not have built-in control electronics.
Float and submersible pumps, unlike other types, can supply water with flexible hoses; they do not have lines that operate under vacuum. As for automation, you can make it yourself or purchase it separately in specialized stores. These two types of pumps belong to the cheapest category and are used mainly during the installation of a summer water supply for a bathhouse. They are easy to maintain and repair, and are always within easy reach.
Quite new equipment, universal use.
Advantages
They have built-in automatic switching on/off depending on the pressure in the hydraulic accumulator - it is possible to connect any equipment, the water pressure is stable. They are significantly superior in power to those described above; they do not require additional water tanks. They can both suck water from a certain depth and supply it to a calculated height. When choosing a specific brand, carefully study the instructions for the pumps, pay attention to the suction depth and delivery height, this is very important criteria. Pumps with hydraulic accumulators can take water from both open sources and shallow wells.
Flaws
Enough high price, installation is allowed only in warm rooms. If there is a possibility of the bathhouse freezing, then you need to resolve issues with insulating the pump or drain the water from it. It takes quite a long time to drain/fill water; in addition, you will have to install additional water shut-off valves to drain water from vertical pipeline risers. Another drawback is that the units are quite noisy, constantly turning on/off electric motor may cause a feeling of discomfort.
Deep
The most expensive, reliable and powerful pumps. They are used for installation in deep wells and have their own multi-stage protection against silting and short circuits. It is not economically profitable to use only one bathhouse; it is recommended to purchase such pumps for installing water supply in all buildings located on summer cottage. Flaw– a water storage tank is required; in most cases, the Rozhnovsky water tower is used for this purpose.
Deep pumps are lowered into wells only on metal pipes; the use of plastic ones is excluded.
Where can I get water from?
SourceDescriptionIllustration| Open sources: river or pond. | If, of course, they are on the site. Benefits – zero costs. Disadvantages - there may be questions about water quality, and the risk of pump clogging increases. |   |
| For most baths this is the optimal solution. The quality is suitable for cooking - water from wells can be used not only for baths, but also for residential buildings. |  |
|
| They can be shallow (on sand) or deep (on limestone). The depth of the former does not exceed 20 meters; specific values depend on the geodetic features of the area and the water balance of the soil. The advantages of small wells are their relatively low cost. Disadvantages - low water flow, high risks of well silting and pump clogging. If water is taken from wells regularly, the risks of siltation are reduced, the sludge is sucked out by the pump, and the mesh filter is cleaned. But if the well is used very rarely, then siltation occurs quickly. The second wells have the highest performance in all parameters. But they also have a significant drawback - the high cost of work. The drilling depth can be several tens of meters or more. |   |
When choosing a specific water intake location, take into account maximum amount individual factors is an axiom of any planning. Our additional advice is to plan a few steps ahead, don’t live for today. If at the moment it is enough for you to take water for a bath from a pond, then keep in mind that in a few years no one will want to use such water. Why do the same job twice? Make a normal water supply right away, this will significantly expand its capabilities.
How to make a sauna water supply with your own hands
Let's consider one of the options that is quite successful in all respects - winter water supply from a well using a pumping station and a hydraulic accumulator.
Step 1. Preliminary planning and equipment purchase.
First of all, draw a diagram of the plumbing. Indicate where exactly in the bathhouse the pumping station will be installed, to which consumers the water is connected, and where the water is drawn from. We are considering the case when there is already a well on the site; if there is none, we will have to dig it. It's pretty complex work We will tell you how to properly dig a well in our next article.
An additional filter must be installed near the pump. The pump has one filter included on the submersible check valve, but the mesh size can only hold coarse sand. But the pump is also afraid of small abrasive particles; such a filter does not catch them.
Video - Filter for a pump in a well, well
Video - Calculation of a water supply pump
For water supply, you can use flexible polyethylene pipes connected with dismountable couplings or plastic pipes connected with a special welding machine.
We recommend using the first option for laying pipes in a trench; such connections are quite reliable; when tensile loads occur, the pipe is slightly pulled out of the rubber seal, this is provided for by the design of the couplings. The tightness of the connection is not broken, which is very important if the water supply is in a trench.
You can use plastic pipes in a bathhouse; to connect them you need to have a special welding machine; it is inexpensive and will always come in handy on the farm. The diameter of the intake and main pipes is at least two inches; distribution throughout the room can be done with pipes of a smaller diameter. To change from one pipe diameter to another, use special adapters.
Now you can go to the store, experienced sales consultants will give you additional tips on the optimal configuration of the selected equipment. The equipment depends on the manufacturer and type of equipment.
Expansion tank (hydraulic accumulator) horizontal. Hydraulic accumulator calculation
The fact is that those installed at the pumping station have a small storage volume, in most cases it does not exceed five liters. It is impossible to say more precisely, the volume of accumulated water depends on set pressure. A small supply of water causes the electric motor to switch on/off frequently. This creates discomfort and negatively affects the stator and rotor windings. For a bathhouse, it is enough to install an additional hydraulic accumulator of fifty liters.
Step 2. Mark and dig a trench
Try not to lay the pipe in places where other buildings are planned in the future. Your pipe, of course, is not a gas main, but you shouldn’t create additional difficulties for yourself. The depth of the trench is not lower than the freezing level of the soil. In order to eliminate the risk of damage to plastic pipes by stones, a sand cushion approximately 5 centimeters thick should be poured onto the bottom of the trench; the pipes on top should also be covered first with sand and then with earth. If your land does not have stones, you don’t have to protect it with sand.
Dig up one of the rings of the well, using a hammer drill, make a hole in the ring through hole under the pipe, the hole should be 10–20 centimeters above the water level. The size of the hole should allow you to work in it with your hands; before filling the trench with mud, the large hole will be closed with any piece of thick-walled galvanized metal or plastic. The entry of the pipeline into the bathhouse depends on the type of foundation; the strip foundation will have to be dug up.
The open section of the pipe from the ground to the floor of the bathhouse must be carefully insulated. There are excellent industrial insulation for pipelines, but we recommend strengthening them - making a wooden box around the pipe and filling it with glass wool. The dimensions of the box around the perimeter are at least 50x50 centimeters.
Step 3: Measure the depth of water in the well
To do this, you need to tie any weight to the end of a long rope and lower it into the well until it stops with the bottom. Cut the vertical riser so that the check valve mesh does not reach 20–30 centimeters to the bottom. This is necessary so that during seasonal fluctuations in water level the valve is always in the water. A slight elevation above the bottom will prevent the mule from being sucked in.
Step 4. Lower the intake pipe into the well
A check valve with a strainer is included with the pump; attach it to the end of the pipe section.
Important. Do not buy Chinese plastic check valves. They work for no more than a year, low-quality plastic breaks. To replace the check valve you will have to dig a trench. This is quite difficult even in summer, but what if a breakdown occurs in winter? Responsible manufacturers make such valves from bronze or brass, buy only these.
A plastic pipe can be cut with a hacksaw or a grinder. Special devices are sold in stores for deburring and chamfering, but you should not buy them. The fact is that they can make a chamfer only if the cut is perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe; this is impossible to achieve manually. The chamfer can be easily removed with a sharp knife or made with a grinder from the flat side of the disc. Without a chamfer, the rubber seal of the coupling can be damaged, and even a slight air leak can cause the pump to fail. You will have to look for the place of the leak and change the coupling or o-rings.
The vertical intake pipe is connected to the horizontal connecting elbow, this is quite inconvenient to do, you have to stick both hands into the hole in the concrete ring of the well. Make sure that the connection is absolutely tight.
Video - Pump installation
Step 5. Attach a horizontal pipe lying in the trench to the outlet of the angle
Step 6. The pumping station needs to be insulated
We recommend additionally preparing a pit in the ground for it; this will significantly reduce the risk of freezing. The pit should be covered with a tight lid; all surfaces can be covered with sheets of foam plastic about ten centimeters thick.
The pipe is connected to the pump, the pump is installed in the bathhouse. At this point the external work is completed, internal piping can be done. For internal wiring, it is better to use plastic pipes; the connection is made with a special welding machine.
While the trench is not backfilled, you need to check the functionality of the pump. Fill it with water; the water should fill the entire pipeline in the trench and displace the air. This can be quite time consuming. During the first start of the pump, the pumping should be facilitated; there may still be air in the pipes, the pump must expel it. Before turning on the engine, open the valve from the hydraulic accumulator, let the water and air flow out without pressure. In this way, you will be able to speed up the pumping of the pipeline, completely remove air from the system and reduce the load on the pump.
Important. When laying a pipeline in a trench, try to ensure that it lies level along the entire route. Otherwise, air pockets will inevitably appear and it will be difficult to remove them.
Video - Selecting, piping and installing a pump in a well
How to regulate a pumping station
The pump with a hydraulic accumulator can be adjusted to the engine on/off pressure. Factory settings do not quite meet the requirements of the bath; they are designed to connect household appliances operating at a water pressure of approximately 2.2 atm. We recommend reducing the pressure, this will significantly reduce the load on the engine and increase the capacity of the hydraulic accumulator. How it's done?
- Remove the terminal block cover; under the cover there are two adjusting bolts with springs. The large one regulates the switch-on pressure, the small one regulates the pump-off pressure.
- When you turn the bolts, you will hear clicks, which indicate that the mechanical trigger is activated.
- Adjust the control bolts so that the pump turns on when the pressure drops to approximately 0.7 atm, and turns off when the pressure rises to 1.2 atm.
We guarantee that such simple changes in the technical response characteristics will increase the service life of the pump by at least one and a half times. In addition, noise during operation will be significantly reduced. Be sure to install an additional water filter before entering the pump.
Video - First launch of a pumping station based on a submersible pump
Internal piping
You need to act according to the drawn diagram, do the work slowly. The fact is that after an error is discovered, the sealed connection will have to be cut off and a new one made; for this you need to use additional couplings, and they do not decorate the water supply. Do not weld all the sections in a row; sometimes you need to skip one connection, weld the next one, and then return to the previous one. It is impossible to describe all the solutions in the article, especially without knowing your scheme. Let us repeat the previous advice again - think several steps or technological operations ahead.
Your own bathhouse is one of the most significant objects when planning any country house or country house. The heart of any sauna, of course, is the stove, and in the modern version - a boiler, gas, electric or solid fuel. To obtain hot water, most of our fellow citizens use the power of the same boiler systems, wood-burning “titans”, instantaneous or storage water heaters for the bathhouse. In this publication we will talk about methods of heating water in a bath and design features water heating equipment.
Requirements for a water heater in a bathhouse
A bathhouse, as a rule, is an unheated structure (or room in a house) that is characterized by high humidity and temperature changes. Therefore, a boiler for a bath must have certain properties and functionality.
It should be:
- extremely resistant to corrosion;
- equipped with the ability to drain liquid from the tank or heat exchanger;
- ensure safety during use;
- do not have flammable materials in the design;
- equipped with a thermometer with the ability to set the required water heating temperature.
Advice: since the bathhouse is heated, as a rule, only at the time of use, and draining water from the boiler (to prevent defrosting in winter) is long and troublesome, you should choose models that can automatically maintain the temperature in the storage tank above freezing point .
Types of water heaters for baths
Today, the Russian market of climate control equipment offers a wide range of boilers, which can be divided into two groups:
- Flow-through.
- Cumulative.
Important! All types of boilers can operate in a water supply system with an excess pressure of at least 1 kg/cm2. This is easily achieved in the system central water supply. If water is drawn from a well (well, reservoir), then to ensure the necessary pressure in the water circuit, a hydrophore (membrane accumulator) should be provided.
Water can be heated by open fire (in geysers) or combustion products (in wood heaters).
But there are several problems here:
- Installation of a geyser requires approval from the local gas utility.
- When using a solid fuel water heater, difficulties arise in regulating and maintaining a certain water temperature.
If you do not have the opportunity (or desire) to deal with all the difficulties of obtaining permission to use a “gas pipe,” then there is only one option left - an electric boiler.
Flow type heater
An electric instantaneous water heater for a bath is a device in which water passes through a heated heating element. The heating element is switched on and off automatically when the point of consumption is opened.
Settings of this type have a lot of advantages:
- Full hot water bath (no volume limitation).
- Quick receipt of heated water.
- No maintenance required.
- No need to drain liquid after use.
Flow-through water heaters have another undeniable advantage - small dimensions. Now a few words about the shortcomings.
- To heat a sufficient amount of running water, a large heating element power is required. (from 8 to 27 kW), and this entails problems with wiring.
- In simple (by design) devices, the degree of heating is determined by the power of the heating element and the liquid flow rate.
More complex devices are equipped with automation that is capable of maintaining the required temperature in the hot water system, but this entails a significant increase in cost.
Storage boilers
A storage type heater consists of a heat-insulated tank, a heating element, an automation unit and a safety group. In modern boilers, some manufacturers install a magnesium electrode, which prevents the formation of scale on the heating element and corrosion of the inner surface of the metal container. Installations of this type are available in both horizontal and vertical versions.
The principle of operation of the boiler is as follows: the tank of the device is filled with water, which is heated by a heating element to a temperature set by the owner in the range from 35 to 85 ° C. Once the temperature is reached, heating stops. When the liquid temperature drops by 0.5°C, the heating element automatically turns on and heats the water in the tank to the set temperature.
Advantages of using storage boilers in a bathhouse:
- Low power consumption compared to flow-through analogues.
- Does not require additional costs for increasing the wiring cross-section.
- At correct selection The container provides a sufficient amount of hot water.
- Maintains liquid temperature for a long time even during a power outage.
- Less demanding on liquid quality.
In addition, storage electric boilers are reliable, durable, fire and electrical safe.
The disadvantage is the large weight and dimensions.
Selection rules
As a rule, low-power water heaters are used to create hot water in a bathhouse: 2 - 2.3 kW. The thing is that while the steam room heats up to the required temperature, the water heater will prepare the required volume of hot water. This significantly reduces energy consumption.
The volume of the tank is selected based on the number of people in the bathhouse. As practice has shown, at a water temperature of 60°C, the consumption for taking a shower is 20 l/person. In total, for 3 people you need a boiler with a volume of 60 - 80 liters, plus a reserve of about 30% of the calculated volume.
Advice! When connecting the boiler to the electrical network, be sure to use a separate branch with a machine equipped with an RCD.
Questions and answers
Question: Many people ask where to hang the boiler in the bathhouse?
Answer: If a flow-type device is used, then it is mounted directly in the washing compartment. If a storage water heater is used, then best place there will be a waiting room.
Question: What is better: a gas water heater or a boiler powered by electricity.
Answer: If the building is gasified, the best option would be a gas water heater. If there is no gas, definitely an electric boiler.
And as a conclusion: the reliability and durability of a bath boiler depends entirely on the correct choice and correct installation devices that are best left to professionals.