Drainage of rainwater from the house. Drainage systems Removal of storm water from the site

Atmospheric precipitation can cause damage to a building not only if the roof leaks. They pose no less a danger to façade structures, foundations and landscaping elements.

And only competent drainage of rainwater can ensure reliable protection from the effects of moisture on all these building elements.

To ensure maximum protection from precipitation and minimize the damage caused by streams of rainwater, it is necessary to carry out a whole range of measures involving the construction of several systems that perform specific functions:

• Roofing drainage and drainage devices.
• Stormwater inlets, point and linear water collectors.
• Pipelines that provide drainage of sediments into storage tanks or filtration fields.

The device of each of these structural elements should correspond to the amount of precipitation characteristic of the region.

It is also worth considering the maximum volume of rainwater that can be obtained as a result of heavy rainfalls or hurricanes. It is depending on these indicators that the technical means, capable of providing drainage of rain and melt water to the maximum extent.

Roof drainage system

It is this system that is responsible for collecting and redirecting the flow of precipitation from the roof of the building.

This ensures protection of façade and basement coverings from moisture:

• Plastic or metal water inlet gutters mounted along the roof eaves.
• Drainpipes made of the same materials.
• Connecting and fastening elements that ensure simple and quick installation of a system that drains rainwater from the roof.

The parameters (dimensions) of the main elements of roof drainage are determined based on statistical and actual data on the abundance of precipitation in the region. In a simplified calculation, you can use the dependence of the diameter of the gutter and drainpipe on the roof area.

Remember, any error or negligence when calculating a drainage roofing system will lead to ineffectiveness of its application.

The gutters are secured using special brackets, and their slope (up to 2 degrees) must be ensured towards the inlet funnels that redirect the flow into the drainpipe.

Therefore, the development of the project and the selection of the necessary materials must be entrusted to a specialist with experience in performing such work.

At the level of the blind area, special devices are installed for collecting rain and melt water - storm drains. They can have a point or linear (tray for draining rainwater) design.

Linear receivers are installed along all surfaces of the plinth or foundation of the building at a distance of 0.5-1 meters from building structures. They are designed to collect precipitation from roof drainage systems, blind areas, and transport wastewater to storage tanks or places of discharge into sewer networks (terrain).

Point receivers are installed in possible places where water accumulates and in the area of ​​drainage roofing pipes. The main task of these devices is to capture water flows and redirect it to the underground pipeline network.

Rainwater is most often drained from the house through underground communications, the installation of which should be carried out during the installation of the drainage system.

To install an underground pipeline, it is best to use double-layer corrugated PVC pipes, which have sufficient rigidity and minimal internal resistance to fluid flow.

The pipes are laid in specially prepared trenches along the building. They are connected to rainwater inlets that collect water flows.

To ensure efficient operation of the system, pipes must be laid with a slope towards the storage devices or to the place where rainwater is discharged into the area. The slope is 1-2 cm per linear meter highways.

Devices for collecting and recycling rainwater

Take away rainwater from building structures, this is only part of the solution to the problem. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of its discharge without causing damage to neighbors. That is why the rainwater drainage device must include drainage or sealed wells, or the collected wastewater must be discharged into filtration fields.

Built in accordance with all the rules, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and in compliance with construction technology, then only soil and ground moisture will pose a danger to its strength and durability. The integrity of the foundation of the house can be damaged by the influence of rain and melt water that enters the soil and does not have the possibility of timely care due to the seasonal rise in level groundwater, or if they pass close to the surface.

As a result of such waterlogging of the soil near the foundation, the parts of its structure become damp, and undesirable processes of corrosion and erosion may well begin in them. In addition, dampness is always a prerequisite for damage to building structures by fungus or other representatives of harmful microflora. Fungal colonies on the walls of premises quickly take over areas, spoiling the finish and negatively affecting the health of the residents of the house.

These problems must be solved at the design and construction stage of the building. The main measures are the creation reliable waterproofing structural elements and properly organized drainage of water from the foundation of the house. About waterproofing - a special conversation, but the water drainage system requires careful calculations, selection of appropriate materials and components - fortunately, these days they are presented in a wide range in specialized stores.

The main methods of draining water from the foundation of a building

To protect the foundation of the house from atmospheric and ground moisture, they are used various designs, which are usually combined into one system. This includes blind areas around the perimeter of the house, storm drainage with a roof drainage system included in it, a set of storm water inlets, horizontal drainage with a set of transportation pipes, inspection and storage wells and collectors. To understand what these systems are, we can look at them in a little more detail.

• Blind areas

The blind areas around the perimeter of the house can be called mandatory element for draining rain and melt water from the foundation. In combination with a roof drainage system, they are able to effectively protect the foundation of the house even without arranging a complex storm sewer, if the amount of seasonal precipitation in a given region is not critical, and groundwater runs deep from the surface.

Blind areas are made from different materials. As a rule, their placement is planned with a slope at an angle of 10–15 degrees from the wall of the house, so that water flows freely into the soil or storm drain gutters. The blind areas are located along the entire perimeter of the building, taking into account that they should have a width of 250÷300 mm larger than the protruding eaves or gable overhang of the roof. In addition to good waterproofing, the blind area also has the function of an external horizontal line for insulating the foundation.

Construction of blind areas - how to do it right?

If you do everything “according to your mind”, then this is very not an easy task. It is necessary to thoroughly understand the design, to know which materials will be optimal for specific construction conditions. The process is outlined with all the necessary details in a special publication on our portal.

• Storm sewer with drainage system

A drainage system is required for every building. Its absence or incorrect planning leads to the fact that melt and rain water will fall on the walls, penetrate to the base of the house, gradually washing away the foundation.

Water from the drainage system should be directed as far as possible from the foundation of the house. For this purpose, a number of devices and elements of storm drainage of one type or another are used - storm water inlets, open gutters or pipes hidden under scrapped earth, sand traps, filters, inspection and storage wells, collectors, storage tanks and others.

Roof drainage system – we install it ourselves

Without properly organized collection of water from a considerable area of ​​the roof, talking about effective drainage of water from the foundation is simply ridiculous. How to correctly calculate, choose and install on the roof - all this is described in a special publication on our portal.

• Drainage wells

Drainage wells are usually used as independent, autonomous elements of a water drainage system when arranging bathhouses or summer kitchens, not connected to the domestic sewage system.

To build such a well, you can use metal or plastic barrel with perforated walls. This container is installed in a pit dug for it, and then filled with crushed stone or broken stone. The drainage system of the bathhouse is connected to the well by a gutter or pipe, through which water will be drained from the foundation.

This system, obviously, is extremely imperfect, and in no case should it be combined with storm sewerage, since in case of heavy rain a rapid overflow with a spill of sewage is possible, which, of course, is not very pleasant. However, under conditions country house construction they resort to it quite often.

• Drainage system

Arranging a full-fledged drainage system in conjunction with storm sewerage is a very responsible and labor-intensive process, requiring considerable material investments. However, in many cases it is impossible to do without it.

For this system to work effectively, it is necessary to carry out careful engineering calculations, which are most often entrusted to specialists.

Prices for storm drainage

storm drain

Since this is the most difficult, but at the same time the most effective option drainage of water from the base of the building, and can be performed in different ways, it needs to be considered in more detail.

Drainage system around the house

Is it always necessary to install a drainage system?

By and large, it is highly desirable that drainage be installed around any building. However, in some cases, a water drainage system is simply vital, since there are a number of objective reasons for this, which include:

• Groundwater is located between layers of soil close to the surface.
• There are very significant amplitudes of seasonal rises in groundwater.
• The house is located in close proximity to a natural reservoir.
• The construction site is dominated by clay or loamy soils, wetlands or peat bogs saturated with organic matter.
• The site is located on a hilly area in a lowland area where melt or rainwater can obviously collect.

In some cases, you can refuse to arrange a drainage system, making do with blind areas and properly organized So, there is no urgent need for a full-fledged drainage circuit in the following situations:

• The foundation of the building is erected on sandy, coarse or rocky soil.
• Groundwater passes below the level of the basement floors by at least 500 mm.
• The house is installed on a hill where melt and rain water never collects.
• The house is being built far from bodies of water.

This does not mean that such a system in these cases is not needed at all. It’s just that its scale and overall productivity may be smaller – but this should already be determined on the basis of special engineering calculations.

Types of drainage systems

There are several types of drainage systems that are designed to remove moisture of various natures. Therefore, the choice is made on the basis of geotechnical studies carried out in advance, which determine which options are most suitable for a particular site.

Drainage can be divided into following types by area of ​​application: internal, external and reservoir. Quite often, installations of all varieties are carried out, for example, to drain groundwater from the basement, it is used internal option drainage, and for soil - external.

• Formative drainage is almost always used - it is installed under the entire structure and is a sand, crushed stone or gravel “pillow” of different thicknesses, mainly 100÷120 mm. The use of such drainage is especially important if the groundwater is located high enough to the floor surface basements.

• The external drainage system is installed at a certain depth or placed superficially along the walls of the building and on the site, and is a set of trenches or perforated pipes that are installed with a slope towards the drainage tank. Through these channels, water is drained into a drainage well.
• Internal drainage is a system of perforated pipes that are laid under the floor of the basement of a house, and, if necessary, directly under the foundation of the entire house, and discharged into a drainage well.

External drainage system

The external drainage system is divided into open and closed.

The open part, in essence, is a system for collecting storm or melt water from the roof drainage system and from concreted, asphalted or paving-tiled areas of the territory. The collection system can be linear - with extended surface trays, for example, along outside line blind areas or along the edges of paths and platforms, or point - with storm water inlets connected to each other and to wells (collectors) by a system of underground pipes.

A closed drainage system includes in its design perforated pipes buried in the ground to a depth determined by the design. Very often, open (storm) and closed (underground drainage) systems are combined into one and used in combination. In this case, the drainage contours of the pipes are located below the stormwater ones - the drainage, as it were, “cleans up” what the “stormwater system” could not cope with. And their storage well or collector may well be combined.

Closed drainage system

Starting to talk about installation work When it comes to arranging a drainage system, first of all you need to say what materials will be required for this process, so that you can immediately determine the required quantity.

So, to install a closed drainage system, the following are used:

• Bulk Construction Materials– sand, crushed stone, coarse gravel or expanded clay.
• Geotextiles (dornit).
• Corrugated PVC pipes for installation of collector wells with a diameter of 315 or 425 mm. Wells are installed at all points of change of direction (at corners), and on straight sections - in increments of 20–30 meters. The height of the well will depend on the depth of the installation drainage pipes.
• Perforated PVC drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, as well as connecting parts to them: tees, corner fittings, couplings, adapters, etc.
• Container for arranging a storage well.

Number of all necessary elements and materials are calculated in advance according to the drawn up design of the water drainage system.

In order not to make a mistake in choosing pipes, it is necessary to say a few words about them.

It is clear that drainage pipes are not used to drain rainwater, since through the holes water will flow under the blind area or to the foundation. Therefore, perforated pipes are installed only in closed drainage systems that drain groundwater away from the building.

In addition to PVC pipes, drainage systems are also assembled from ceramic or asbestos concrete pipes, but they do not have factory perforation, so in this case– non-functional. You will have to drill holes in them yourself, which takes a lot of time and effort.

Corrugated perforated PVC pipes are the best option, since they have a small mass, pronounced flexibility, and are easily assembled into a single system. In addition, the presence of ready-made holes in the walls allows you to optimize the volume of incoming water. Except flexible pipes PVC, you can find hard versions on sale that have a smooth inner and corrugated outer surface.

PVC drainage pipes are classified according to strength level, have letter markings SN and numbers from 2 to 16. For example, SN2 products are only suitable for contours at a depth not exceeding 2 meters. At a depth of 2 to 3 meters, models marked SN4 will be required. At a depth of four meters it is better to place SN6, but SN8, if necessary, can cope with depths of up to 10 meters.

Rigid pipes are produced in lengths of 6 or 12 meters, depending on the diameter, while flexible pipes are sold in coils up to 50 meters.

A very successful purchase would be pipes that already have a filter layer on top. For this purpose, geotextiles are used (more suitable for sandy soils) or coconut fibers (they show their effectiveness well on clay layers of soil). These materials reliably prevent the rapid creation of blockages in the narrow openings of perforated pipes.

Pipe assembly in common system does not require any special tools or devices - the sections are joined manually using special couplings or fittings, depending on the model. To ensure tight connections, the products are equipped with special rubber seals.

Before moving on to the description of installation work, it is necessary to clarify that drainage pipes are always laid below the freezing depth of the soil.

Installation of a closed drainage system

When starting a description of the arrangement of the drainage system, it is necessary to mention and clearly present the fact that it can be laid not only around the house, but throughout the entire territory of the site, if it is very wet and requires constant drying.

Prices for geotextiles

geotextiles

Installation work is carried out according to a pre-compiled project, which is developed taking into account all the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the system.

The schematic location of the drainage pipe looks as shown in this illustration.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The first step is to mark the passage of drainage channels on the site according to the dimensions indicated on the project. If it is necessary to drain water only from the foundation of the house, then the drainage pipe is often placed at a distance of about 1000 mm from the blind area. The width of the trench for the drainage channel should be 350÷400 mm.
	The next step, following the applied markings, is to dig trenches around the perimeter of the entire house. Their depth should also be calculated based on data obtained after soil surveys. Trenches are dug with a slope of 10 mm for each linear meter of length towards the drainage well. In addition, it is a good idea to provide a slight angle of inclination of the bottom of the trench from the foundation walls. Next, the bottom of the trench must be compacted well, and then a sand cushion 80–100 mm thick must be laid on it. The sand is spilled with water and also becomes compacted manual tamper, in compliance with the previously formed longitudinal and transverse slopes of the trench bottom.
	As the drainage of the foundation of a built house progresses, obstacles in the form of floor slabs may arise along the path of the trench. It is impossible to leave such areas without a drainage channel, otherwise moisture, having no outlet, will accumulate in these areas. Therefore, you will need to carefully dig under the slab so that the pipe is laid continuously along the wall (so that the ring is closed).
	In addition to the remote drainage system, in some cases a wall version of the channel for water drainage is installed. It is relevant if the house has a basement or ground floor, under which an internal drainage system was not installed when the house was built. The trench is dug to a depth below the basement floor, without a large indentation from the foundation wall, which requires additional covering waterproofing material on a bitumen basis. The remaining work is similar to that which will be carried out when laying pipes running at a meter distance from the wall.
	The next step is to lay geotextiles in the trench. If the trench is deep and the width of the canvas is not enough, then it is cut and laid across the pit. The canvases are laid on top of each other with an overlap of 150 mm, and then glued together with waterproof tape. Geotextiles are temporarily secured along the upper edges of the trench with stones or other weights. When installing wall drainage, one edge of the canvas is temporarily fixed on the wall surface.
	Next, at the bottom of the trench, on top of the geotextile, a layer of sand 50 mm thick is poured, and then a layer of medium-fraction crushed stone 100 mm thick. The embankment is evenly distributed along the bottom of the trench, and care must be taken to ensure that the previously laid slope is maintained.
	In order to embed a coupling into a corrugated pipe of a plastic drainage well, the diameter is outlined on it, and then, using sharp knife the marked area is cut out. The coupling should fit tightly in the hole and protrude into the well by 120÷150 mm.
	Drainage pipes are laid on top of the embankment made in the trenches and, according to the design, inspection wells are installed, to the couplings of which pipes intersecting at a given point are attached.
	After completing the installation of pipes and wells, the design of the drainage circuit should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	The next step is to fill the top of the drainage pipes and around the wells with coarse gravel or medium-fraction crushed stone. The thickness of the embankment above the top point of the pipe should be from 100 mm to 250 mm.
	Next, the edges of the geotextile, fixed to the walls of the trench, are released, and then they cover the entire resulting “layered structure” from above.
	A sand backfill 150÷200 mm thick is made onto the rolled geotextile, which has completely covered the filter layer of crushed stone or gravel, which needs to be slightly compacted. This layer will become an additional protection of the system from subsidence of the soil, which is poured into the trench as the last top layer and is also compacted. You can do it differently: before starting to dig a trench, the turf layer is carefully removed from the ground, and after completion of the installation work, the turf is returned to its place, I green lawn again pleasing to the eye.
	When setting up a drainage system, it is necessary to remember that all the pipes that make it up must have a slope towards the inspection well, and then towards the storage well or collector, which is installed away from the house. If a drainage version of the water intake is being installed, then it is completely or bottom part filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or broken stone.
	If you want to completely mask the covers of inspection, drainage or storage wells, you can use decorative garden elements. They can imitate a round log or a stone boulder that decorates the landscape.

Discharge of storm and melt water

Features of storm drainage

An external drainage system is sometimes called an open drainage system, meaning its purpose is to drain rainwater from the roof drain and from the surface of the site. It would probably be correct to call it a storm drain. By the way, if it is assembled according to the point principle, it can also be located hidden.

Installing such a water drainage system seems to be easier than buried drainage, since installation will require less excavation work. On the other side - important acquire elements of external design, which also requires certain costs and extra efforts.

There is another important difference. The drainage system is designed, as a rule, for constant “even” operation - even if seasonal changes in soil moisture saturation occur, they are not so critical. Storm sewers must be able to very quickly, literally within minutes, drain large volumes of water into collectors and wells. Therefore, increased demands are placed on its performance. And this performance is ensured by correctly selected sections of pipes (or gutters - in a linear scheme) and the slope of their installation for the free flow of water.

When designing storm sewers, the territory is usually divided into water collection areas - one or more storm inlets are responsible for each area. A separate area is always the roof of a house or other buildings. They try to group the remaining fates according to similar external conditions - outer covering, since each of them has special characteristics of water absorption. Thus, it is necessary to collect 100% of the fallen volume of storm water from the roof, and from the territory - depending on the coverage of a particular area.

For each area, the average statistical water collection is calculated using the formulas - it is based on the coefficient q20, which shows the average precipitation intensity for each specific region.

Knowing the required volume of water drainage from a particular area, it is easy to determine the nominal diameter of the pipe and the required slope angle from the table.

Hydraulic cross-section of pipes or trays	DN 110	DN 150	DN 200	Slope value (%)
Volume of collected water (Qsb), liters per minute	3.9	12.2	29.8	0.3
-"-	5	15.75	38.5	0,3 - 0,5
-"-	7	22.3	54.5	0,5 - 1,0
-"-	8.7	27.3	66.7	1,0 - 1,5
-"-	10	31.5	77	1,5 - 2,0

In order not to torment the reader with formulas and calculations, we will entrust this task to a special online calculator. It is necessary to indicate the mentioned coefficient, the area of ​​the site and the nature of its coverage. The result will be obtained in liters per second, liters per minute and in cubic meters at one o'clock.

Land owners often face the problem of excess water after snow melts, rains, or due to high groundwater. Excess moisture is harmful not only to plant roots, but also leads to flooding of basements and even premature destruction of building foundations. Installing a drainage system will help cope with this problem. This is an engineering structure, thanks to which storm and groundwater are discharged outside the site.

The system includes point drainage systems and linear channels. The drainage system is a gravity flow system. Pipes (drains) are laid with a uniform slope (1–3 cm per meter of length). This is especially important for silty soils. The decline should go away from the house. Inspection wells are installed at pipe bends. They make the system easier to maintain. Straight sections are equipped with wells every 30–50 meters.

Layout of drains on the site according to the herringbone pattern

The drains on the site are laid out in a herringbone pattern. The diameter of the auxiliary pipes is 75 millimeters, the main pipe is 100 millimeters. The central pipe carries water outside the site.

Pipes should not be laid close to the house or fence. The distance from the foundation to the pipe is at least 1 meter.

Types of drainage

Drainage can be performed open or closed. The choice of drainage system depends on the climate and type of soil. The groundwater level is also important.

1. Open drainage is the simplest method of drainage. Water flows through ditches to a given place. Also applicable drainage trays with decorative grilles. The most important thing here is the slope. It should be 2-3 centimeters per meter of length.
2. The closed version is more common. These are branched drainage systems located in the ground. Pipes or crushed stone are placed at the bottom of the trench. Brushwood or large stones are also suitable for this. The main thing is that the material conducts water. To make the water decrease faster, the slope is 2–5 centimeters per meter of length.

Open system

A ditch is dug along the perimeter of the site and the house. The width should be 40–50 centimeters, the depth 50–60 centimeters. The slope is made towards the common water intake trench. For better water drainage, the walls of the ditch are beveled at an angle of 30 degrees.

This system has its own characteristics:

• low cost;
• completing the work does not take much time;
• has an unaesthetic appearance;
• at large quantities water, the depth of the ditch needs to be increased, which increases the likelihood of falls and injuries;
• Over time, the wall of such a ditch collapses.

Decorative trays extend the life of the drainage system and give a more aesthetic appearance

To increase service life, trays are used. They can be plastic or concrete. Decorative grilles increase safety. The appearance of the site also improves.

Modern drainage according to a linear scheme involves the use of special parts: channels, gutters and trays, which are installed in pre-prepared ditches dug to the water collection site with a slope. Grates are laid on top of such ditches.

Closed system

Pipe drainage carries water to the catchment well. Drainage drains are laid in trenches. Perforated pipes are filled with crushed stone and covered with geotextiles. Connecting to the collector, the water is discharged to the collection well.

Using a network of drainage pipes, excess soil moisture is drained into separately located drainage wells

The closed type is a drainage pit. A hole dug to a depth of 2 meters is filled with gravel. going to it excess moisture. Subsequently, the water gradually disappears into the soil.

Backfill drainage is similar to closed drainage, but the difference between them is that instead of pipes in this case, the trench is half filled with large crushed stone or broken brick. The upper part of the trench is covered with a smaller fraction - small stone or gravel. The top layer is made of soil. Backfill drainage is now rarely used. On clay soils the system quickly fails. The filter media becomes silted and does not allow water to pass through.

Modern drainage systems

Modern industry offers new types of drainage systems. Synthetic materials durable and lightweight. The versatility of the parts ensures ease of assembly.

Pipe and pipeless structures have been developed. Plastic devices environmentally friendly. Pipes are sold with or without geotextile wrapping. The drainage kit includes two-layer drains and synthetic filters.

Systems without crushed stone

Instead of crushed stone they are used synthetic aggregates. The bottom of the trench is compacted and covered with sand. Pipes are laid taking into account the slope. The tecton is covered with layer-by-layer water-permeable material.

The thickness of the coating depends on the water permeability of the soil. Usually it is 100–300 millimeters. Geotextiles are laid on top and soil is filled. Soft drainage is more expensive, but more effective than crushed stone.

Geotextiles are used in drainage systems as a separating layer

Systems without pipes

Using new technologies, pipes can be replaced with a different design. Synthetic drainage mats are now being produced. This is a three-dimensional plastic mesh wrapped in geotextile. Lightweight products from composite material easy to install. Their advantage is protection against silting.

Even if the upper or lower layers of geotextile silt, the drainage grid itself will continue to work perfectly and drain groundwater

When the soil is highly moistened, there are enlarged systems. These are drainage tunnels and fields. Plastic elements are assembled into monumental structures. They can be used on large areas.

Softrock systems

The cassette consists of a perforated pipe and polystyrene foam filler. The structure is covered with durable woven mesh. The top layer is made of double geotextile. Special channels improve water flow. Drainage cassette more efficient than the system with crushed stone by 35–60%.

The flexible pipe in the case is 3 meters long. It is completely ready for installation. The softrock drainage system is located at a depth of 45 centimeters. After installation, they are covered with soil.

The softrock system uses expanded polystyrene instead of crushed stone

According to consumer reviews, the system is reliable and durable. Many have mounted it on our own. The time of year does not affect the production of work. The flexibility of the sections is especially noted, which makes it possible to bend around trees and buildings.

After the autumn rains, water stood in the basement; it was necessary to provide high-quality drainage. I remembered the crushed stone and figured out in my mind how many resources needed to be poured into this project: time, work force, transport to transport this crushed stone, and then spread it further... I was looking for instructions on the Internet, came across Softrock, decided to take a risk and did not regret it. Easy, inexpensive, modern and smart: foam balls tucked into the belt. Indeed, everything is ingenious - simple

Valentinehttp://softrock.ru/o-nas/otzyvy/

The pipe there is the same as the 110 or 160 pipe, it is the same, the filtration element is only polystyrene foam, in bad soils sand and crushed stone can kill a lot and the area will turn into a swamp, but this pipe can be laid in a landscaped area, it will work out neatly. The main thing that year was to make 2 sections from the standard system: geotextiles, sand, crushed stone + pipe + crushed stone, geotextile soil, the second only softrock - in the first section the soil has not yet receded and the water is standing, but the softrock works faster. It has a surrounding layer of foam plastic, it is like insulation for drainage, and the diameter is stable 27 cm. Of course, everything depends on its purpose, the soft rock will simply go along the site, and if it does not carry the load on the road.

Drenazh2013https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/195034/page-3

Modern and high-quality drainage, if you, like me, did not know how technology has advanced in this area, then look at soft rock, there is something to be surprised at. Very easy to install and requires no maintenance. No rubble or problems. External material It only lets water through, no need to clean it. No, it's really very convenient.

Cinderellahttps://www.otovarah.ru/forum/topic/4373-drenazh-softrok-softrock/

Drainage for storm water drainage

The façade, foundations, and area around the house suffer from precipitation. The drainage system for drainage of storm water includes:

• roof gutters;
• point storm water inlets;
• storm drainage;
• drainage system.

Gutters and pipes remove water from the roof. Stormwater inlets are installed under the drainpipe. They direct water through pipes into storm drains. Typically, two-layer polymer drains are used. They are laid in trenches at a slope of 2 centimeters by 1 meter.

Drainage system and storm sewerage

Rainwater must be removed from the building. To do this, drainage wells or storage tanks are installed in the drainage system. Rainwater is collected in a sealed reservoir. It can be used for irrigation or technical purposes.

The walls of the well are strengthened concrete rings. The depth should be at the level of the filter layer of soil. Then the water will gradually go into the soil. If such layers lie deep, wells are drilled. It is necessary to take into account the groundwater level. At high levels, wells are ineffective.

Storm drainage for country house must be installed simultaneously with the drainage system for more correct calculation water drainage

Installation of a drainage system: step-by-step technology

Before starting installation, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the site, note natural slopes, and determine the groundwater level. Mark the trenches on the ground according to the diagram. To do this, use pegs and cord.

Calculation and drainage diagram

The calculation consists of determining the upper and lower points of the system. The lowest point corresponds to the place of water discharge. The top one is selected 30 centimeters below the foundation. The slope angle is taken to be at least 1%.

You need to calculate the length of the entire trench. To do this, add up the distance from the well and the length of the trench around the house. One percent of this amount is equal to the difference between the upper and lower points. If the water intake point is higher, a drainage pump is needed.

The correct diagram of the drainage system will help you make it yourself

The drainage system diagram indicates:

• location of buildings on the site;
• water storage area;
• main conductor;
• drainage drains.

SNiP drainage system

When designing drainage systems to prevent or eliminate flooding of territories, the requirements of SNiP drainage 2.06.15–85, as well as SNiP 2.06.14–85 and SNiP II-52–74 must be met.

1. When designing, preference should be given to systems with gravity drainage. Drainage systems with forced pumping of water require additional justification.
2. Depending on the hydrogeological conditions, horizontal, vertical and combined drainages should be used.
3. The use of a drainage system should be justified by studying the water, and for the arid zone, the salt balance of groundwater.
4. Performing horizontal drainage using open trench and trenchless methods is determined by economic feasibility. In the case of installing open horizontal drainages at a depth of up to 4 m from the ground surface, the depth of soil freezing, as well as the possibility of their overgrowing, should be taken into account.
5. Open channels and trenches should be constructed in cases where drainage of large areas with one- and two-story low-density buildings is required. Their use is also possible to protect ground transport communications from flooding.
6. To secure the slopes of open drainage ditches and trenches, it is necessary to use concrete or reinforced concrete slabs or rock fill. Drainage holes must be provided in reinforced slopes.
7. In closed drainages, sand and gravel mixture, expanded clay, slag, polymer and other materials should be used as a filter and filter bedding.
8. Water should be drained through trenches or channels by gravity. The construction of drainage reservoirs with pumping stations is advisable in cases where the topography of the protected area has lower elevations than the water level in the nearest water body where the water should be drained. surface runoff from the protected territory.
9. Discharge of water into storm sewers is permitted if the capacity of the storm sewer is determined taking into account additional expenses water coming from the drainage system. In this case, back-up of the drainage system is not allowed.
10. Inspection wells should be installed at least every 50 m in straight sections of drainage, as well as in places of turns, intersections and changes in slope of drainage pipes. Inspection wells may be used in prefabricated reinforced concrete rings with a settling tank (at least 0.5 m deep) and concrete bottoms in accordance with GOST 8020–80. Inspection wells on reclamation drainages should be adopted in accordance with SNiP II-52–74.
11. The following pipes should be used: ceramic, asbestos-cement, concrete, reinforced concrete or polyvinyl chloride pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete or porous polymer concrete.
12. Concrete, reinforced concrete, asbestos-cement pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete should be used only in soils and water that are non-aggressive towards concrete.

Pipes for drainage system

Modern industry produces three types of pipes:

• asbestos-cement;
• ceramic;
• polymer.

The first two types are now rarely used. They are expensive, heavy and short-lived. A variety of plastic pipes fills the market. Single and double-layer, flexible and rigid polymer pipes have many advantages.

Polymer pipes are most often used for drainage

Do-it-yourself drainage installation

You can install drainage on the site yourself. Any company can help you select pipes and fittings for them. To make a drainage system you will need the following tools and materials:

• pipes made of asbestos cement or plastic, fittings;
• wrenches, pipe cutting scissors;
• filter non-woven material;
• ready-made or manufactured manholes;
• storm water inlets (catchment inlet), trays, gutters, gratings, sand traps;
• gravel, sand;
• level;
• bayonet and shovel;
• electric or pneumatic hammer drill;
• wheelbarrow, buckets;
• iron or wooden rammer;
• individual protection means.

The construction of a deep drainage system occurs as follows:

1. Construction begins with the installation of a collector well, that is, a place where water will be collected from the entire system. It would be simple and rational to use a ready-made container made of durable polymer, although it is also possible to independently manufacture a well from reinforced concrete rings.

   

   A prefabricated drainage well is needed so that excess water accumulates in it, which fills the drainage system to capacity

2. Next, trenches are prepared for laying drainage pipes. The trench is dug 20–30 cm deeper than the expected depth of the pipes to be laid, and it is necessary to maintain a slope of 0.5–0.7%.

   

   The depth of the trench depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the drainage system is installed

3. If it is impossible to maintain a given slope, then this diagram you will have to turn on an additional pump for the drainage structure of the site.
4. Sand cushions 10 cm thick are placed in the dug trenches, which are compacted very carefully.
5. Then the trench is lined with geotextile fabric so that its edges extend beyond the trench.
6. Gravel 10–20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric, on which the pipes will be laid.

   

   We lay out the geotextile fabric so that it completely covers the entire area of ​​the trench and continues to spread along the surface of the earth for another 20–30 centimeters

7. Inspection wells are installed at the turning points of the drainage structure pipeline. Wells are also installed on straight sections every 50 meters.

   

   Inspection drainage plastic well needed in order to easily check the drainage system, and, if necessary, repair or clean it

8. After the pipes are laid, washed gravel is poured on top of them in a layer of 10 to 20 cm and all this is wrapped in excess geotextile overlapping. You can secure the fabric with polyethylene twine.

   

   A layer of washed gravel is poured onto the pipes and wrapped in excess geotextile

9. Geotextiles will act as a filter that does not allow soil particles to pass through and will prevent the gravel layer from silting.
10. Filling the trench: sand, then soil or crushed stone, and turf is laid on top. A sand cushion is needed to prevent pipe deformation during the off-season.

    

    You can lay grass turf on top of the drainage trench or decorate it with stones

Video: laying drainage using perforated pipeline

Drainage system maintenance, cleaning

Maintenance consists of inspecting and cleaning the system. Regular inspection will help identify minor problems.

Basic methods of servicing drying and drainage systems:

1. Cleaning the drain ( mechanical method). It can be carried out different methods. The choice of any of them depends on where exactly the pipes are located and design features. If the drain lies on the surface, it is best to choose manual method cleaning. It can be carried out independently, without the involvement of qualified specialists. If we are talking about deep drainage, more effective methods, which may be associated with excavation work. In this case, you will need a pneumatic installation with a cleaning tool and a shaft. The second option involves the use of a special nozzle, which will remove deposits on the pipe walls and crush large inclusions. The system should be cleaned at least once every 3–4 years.
2. Flushing drainage (hydrodynamic method). Typically, the system is cleaned in sections using a hose and pump. Global cleaning of the system should be done once every 10–15 years. To do this, you need to provide access to each drain from both ends. On one side the pipe goes into a drainage well, and the other end is brought to the surface. To do this, even at the stage of laying the system, outlets are made and with the help of fittings the pipe is extended and taken to a certain place. During the flushing process, pumping equipment is connected to one or the other end of the pipe, and a stream of water is passed under pressure. This uses a compressor that will supply compressed air into the pipe. The system is cleaned by a flow of a mixture of air and water. The hydrodynamic method is different high efficiency - under this influence, sediments and debris are crushed, after which they are washed out of the drains with clean water.

Video: cleaning a drainage well with a drainage pump

Manholes require regular cleaning. They must always be closed. Pipes are cleaned of debris using a hydraulic method using high pressure. Mechanical cleaning with scrapers or brushes is unacceptable.

In order for the water drainage system from the site to work as efficiently and as long as possible, it is necessary to pay attention to its maintenance and repair.

The type of drainage system is determined by the characteristics of a particular site. Each owner chooses the most suitable option for him. Laying drainage can be done independently, with necessary calculations, compliance sanitary standards and rules and recommendations of specialists. At correct operation the system can operate for more than 50 years.

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Drainage is considered to be a fairly important hydraulic engineering operation. summer cottage. The easiest way to improve the water balance of the soil should be to mandatory, because the moisture ratio in different periods years may change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

A simple system for draining water from a building

Soil drainage can be done using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed channels that do not interfere with the attractiveness of the landscape.

Surface lines

Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to the central drainage ditch or drain well. The advantages include:

• high construction speed;
• low costs;
• sufficient level of efficiency;
• ease of cleaning.

Helpful advice! If we are talking about how to make drainage on a site with your own hands without unnecessary financial investments, then first of all you should consider the option with a system of open channels.

Closed drainage systems

Systems with deep lines are ideal for draining both stormwater and groundwater located in the immediate vicinity. Most often, they are arranged using polymer pipes that are immersed in the ground at a certain distance.

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

• point (water collection occurs in one place);
• linear (moisture collection is ensured throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within one site, the presented species can be combined. For example, point collection can be used for the drainage system of a house, and linear collection can be used for groundwater.

Drainage in a summer cottage: the simplest method of installation for specific conditions

Before making a drainage system on a site, it is necessary to select its type based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for installing water drainage systems, which are popular when certain conditions.

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

If groundwater is close to the groundwater level, a deep linear system may be the best option. It will drain moisture from the entire area into a drainage well, ravine or ditch located a level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in a geotextile filter as the main elements.

One of the most simple ways drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface comes down to the following scheme:

• A trench is dug to the distance where the soil freezes. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. A layer of sand is poured for leveling.
• Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
• Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again filled with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile are rolled up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is filled with soil.

For your information! Knowing how to properly drainage around a site and on its territory with close groundwater, you can avoid serious problems associated with excess moisture.

Related article:

Installation of open drainage with your own hands on an area with clay soil

For land plots with clay soil A system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. With a closed pipeline system, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go into specialized sedimentation tanks or other suitable places.

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the receiving site. It is necessary to make the widest trench that collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Because open view trenches spoil the appearance of the site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only improves aesthetic properties, but also strengthens the side surfaces of open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system increases significantly.

Stones can be used as material for decorating pits different sizes. The largest of them should be placed on the bottom, and the medium and small ones should be placed on top. If you have good financial resources, the surface can be covered marble chips, which will give the branch lines a respectable appearance.

If with in cash tight, then ordinary brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and placed on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

The thickness of the bundles of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Related article:

Average prices for turnkey plot drainage

Many companies offer professional services on the construction of drainage systems, but they are not so cheap. During the work, a double-wall pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

The main stages of constructing a quality system

Can a regular summer rain, harm such a solid structure as a modern private house?

It turns out it can.

And the durability of the structural elements of the home and the level of comfort of living in it depends on how well thought out and carefully designed the drainage system is.

What threats does undiverted water pose?

The site, and therefore the foundation of the house, can be affected by several types of water:

• water that drains from the roof ();
• precipitation falling directly on the site;
• water entering the site from adjacent areas;
• groundwater that we don’t see, but it can cause a lot of trouble.

Increased water content in the topsoil can negatively affect growth landscape shrubs and trees, and also negate all efforts to care for the garden.

Humidity from basements and the foundation will rise along the walls to the residential level, which will lead to the formation of mold and destruction of the external and internal finishing layer of the walls.

Accumulated water can cause soil movement. As a result, the so-called “stirring” of the house occurs.

This will be visible through cracks in the wall, falling plaster and poorly closing doors. In the worst case, perhaps premature destruction of the foundation, with all the ensuing consequences.

The greatest problems may arise in winter:

• frozen water, expanding, will cause swelling of lawns and paved areas;
• the resulting ice layer will further prevent the drainage of newly incoming water.

To prevent this from happening, all water from the house must be diverted.

Just a few decades ago, few people thought about diverting water from their homes. They tried to build on an elevated place, relative to other sites.

There were simply ditches dug around the house. Open drainage systems are still used in some cases.

But with the advent of new technologies, today a closed drainage system () is mainly used.

How the drainage system works

There are several types of drainage system:

• Open drainage system- these are, in fact, ditches dug at the lowest and highest points of the site on a slope.
  Can be decorated with stone, wood, tile or concrete.
• Semi-closed- the same ditches, but covered with rubble and earth.
• Closed system– perforated plastic pipes laid at depth (how to bend them at home is written).

Best result the system will give with plastic pipes.

Their outer layer is corrugated, which allows you to give the desired bending radius when laying.

There are perforated holes along the entire length, between the corrugations, on the side and top.

Through these holes, water from the ground enters the pipe and is discharged through the lower drain to a designated place.

The design of a rainwater drainage system depends on:

• climate features,
• soil structure,
• height difference on the site.

Used in all cases drainage ditch, where drainage and stormwater pipes are laid. In another way, such ditches are still called drains.

When creating a drainage system design, the slopes of the site and the groundwater level are taken into account.

The location of future garden paths, which, due to their crushed stone cushion, will also drain water.

• easier to install,
• more durable,
• cheaper.

In their design, they have 1 or 2 partitions that reduce the pressure of water flowing from one well to another. This is done to prevent water from escaping to the surface.

It is necessary to have a special basket in the design.

It will additionally prevent leaves and debris washed from the surface of the earth from entering underground pipes.

The basket must be removed and cleaned at least 2-3 times per season.

The top of the well is closed with a lattice lid. She may be:

• cast iron,
• made of plastic,
• made of galvanized metal.

Cast iron- will be best in harmony with clinker or paving slabs, which will fit close to the well.

Plastic- lighter, cheaper and can be chosen in the desired color.

There may be differences between the ground levels along the walls, but it is advisable to place the wells of a separate system on the same level.

They can be located at some distance from the walls of the house.

To deliver water from the drainpipe to them, clinker gutters are used.

If desired, or if the project requires it, water intake wells can be excluded from the system.

In this case, the drainpipe, coming from the roof, is brought below the ground or paving level by 30-50 cm, and there it is already connected to an underground pipe leading to the drainage system.

With this design, Special attention You need to pay attention to filters that catch debris, which are usually located on the upper tiers.

For average plot sizes, paving area(clinker, paving slabs or simply pouring concrete) can be 500 meters or more.

This water also has nowhere to go and must be diverted. To do this, the installation is carried out with a certain slope, and the flowing water is collected using the same water intake wells.

Total length of storm system pipes, with the average complexity of a landscape project, on average it is 200-250 meters for a plot of 6 acres.

Storm pipes are used for this purpose.. Unlike drainage pipes, storm pipes are not perforated along their length, and their purpose is to quickly deliver water without loss.

They can be made of plastic or ceramics (read the article about heating the water supply inside the pipe).

Ceramic, usually used in urban and park areas. For the construction of a private plot, plastic ones are better suited. Their installation and installation is much simpler and the price is lower.

The central catch basin can be made of concrete or plastic.

Concrete - more commonly used by utilities for urban water collection systems. In private construction, plastic ones are mainly used.

The well is a pipe with a diameter of 300-500 mm and a length of 3-5 m. During the construction process, since the final level of the site is not yet known, it is better to install the well with a margin of 1 meter above the surface.

Later, when everything excavation are completed, the pipe is cut to the required height.

In modern cottage villages, initially, a central drainage system is installed, which receives storm and groundwater from all houses. It is then discharged into the city wastewater system.

Lifetime

The service life of the drainage system depends from the correctness and thoroughness of its execution. Such pipes appeared about 50 years ago.

Therefore, this is approximately the warranty period that manufacturers provide. Longer tests have simply not yet been carried out.

Even if you protect the perforated holes with layers of biological tissue, silting of the inner surface of the pipes will still occur over time.

Therefore, once every 5-10 years, it is necessary to ensure that the entire system is flushed (cleaning sewer pipes hydrodynamic method is described in the article). They are usually washed with water under high pressure.

In complex systems, when pipes have a lot of branches and turns, it is necessary to provide additional manholes, which will facilitate maintenance and cleaning.

Why you need to drain water from the foundation of a house or building, watch the video.

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