Protection of wood from ultraviolet radiation and moisture. Which antiseptic for wood is better to choose: calculation and methods of treating wood with an antiseptic

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Whatever type of coverage you choose, remember the following:

  • Many exterior wood compositions contain antiseptic additives that can cause a severe allergic reaction. Do not use exterior paint or glaze on food contact items.
  • Before using lumber treated with antiseptics under pressure, let it dry thoroughly. In warm, dry summer weather, it will take about three weeks to dry.

Wood needs a sun umbrella and a raincoat

  1. Wood used outdoors has two main enemies - sun and rain.
  2. Short term storage wooden products(even without finishing) in a dry room can protect them from both the sun and rain.

Ultraviolet radiation (UV) from the sun almost immediately begins to destroy the unprotected surface of the tree, giving it the familiar silvery-gray color.

Degradation accelerates when the surface begins to develop fine cracks, allowing moisture to penetrate deeply into the wood.

What should a carpenter do? It is best to protect your garden furniture from all damage by keeping it out of direct sunlight, such as on a covered patio or gazebo, or by storing it in a shaded area against the north wall of the house, or under the canopy of trees when not in use. This precaution will be appropriate for caring for small pieces of garden furniture and other not too heavy products, but is not suitable for entrance doors, gates, gates and large benches.

Large and heavy wooden products, doomed to remain under the scorching rays of the sun, can be easily protected from ultraviolet radiation by creating an impenetrable solar screen for them - painting them with opaque paint. Paint and opaque (opaque) glaze contain enough pigment to provide light-proof protection to the wood. Any of these coatings would be a good choice.

When going outside in bad weather, you put on a waterproof raincoat. Wooden products also require reliable protection from moisture. Any film-forming coating applied to wood from all sides provides moisture protection like a raincoat. But sooner or later, water penetrates under the coating film and causes it to peel off. Therefore, for greater durability, it is better to use elastic compounds with water-repellent (hydrophobic) properties.

Another way, rarely used by today's craftsmen, is to use products without any protection at all, that is, not covered or impregnated with anything. Many rot-resistant wood species (provided that the products are not in constant contact with water or soil) weather and thin out by only a few millimeters over a century. However, without antifungal impregnation, wood in best case scenario will be covered with dark spots, and at worst - with rough flaking scales.

Opaque finish protects from the sun

So, an ideal weather-resistant coating for wood should contain antiseptic additives and a significant amount of pigment; reliably prevent moisture penetration while remaining elastic; simple and easy to apply.

Paint and opaque glaze (highly diluted paint) are closest to ideal. Both types of coatings contain so much pigment that the wood underneath is inaccessible to sunlight. This explains why wood siding on regularly painted and maintained homes lasts for over a hundred years. Such durability is easy to ensure these days, because modern acrylic latex paints remain quite elastic even after drying, stretching and contracting again as the wood swells and shrinks.

However, paints and opaque glazes cannot be considered the best coatings for wood used outdoors. Even if you carefully paint every piece before assembly, water will eventually find its way to the wood and begin to accumulate under the coating film, causing it to swell and peel. Puddles and drops on horizontal surfaces accelerate the destructive power of water. This is one of the reasons why wooden flooring Painting is not recommended. Here are some tips on how to get the most out of your paints and opaque glazes.

Love the clear finish? The decision won't be easy

Transparent coatings, which allow you to admire the natural color and texture of the wood on the decking boards of a gazebo or terrace, are divided into two types. Some coatings form a durable film on wood, while others are absorbed into its surface.

Transparent film-forming coatings, such as nitro varnish, polyurethane or epoxy resin, do not contain light-blocking pigments, allowing destructive ultraviolet rays to easily penetrate and affect the surface of the wood. Soon the surface layer of damaged wood cells begins to peel off along with the coating, on which cracks and peeling scales appear (photo B). Repairs will require sanding the surface down to bare wood and reapplying the finish.

Clear film-forming coatings last longer when not exposed to moisture or direct sunlight. For example, Entrance door on the north side of the house, covered with several layers of polyurethane varnish, will retain a fresh look for a long time (especially if it is additionally protected with a storm door or shutters), as it will become inaccessible to rain and sun.

Oil coatings, translucent oil-based glazes and water repellents are absorbed into the wood (without forming a film on its surface) and do not crack when the wood inevitably swells and shrinks. Unlike film-forming compounds, absorbent coatings are easy to renew. Just rinse the surface detergent, dry and apply a new coat of coating. However, compositions that do not contain pigments (or with a low content of them) practically do not protect wood from ultraviolet radiation, so products coated with them suffer from the sun.

Some oil coatings appear transparent, but contain special light-blocking pigments of the finest grinding. Particles of these substances, when sufficiently concentrated, effectively protect wood from ultraviolet irradiation. How do you know if an oil coating contains these pigments? Look for transoxide pigments in the list of ingredients on the can.

Translucent oil-based glazes are relatively inexpensive but combine the best properties of paints and penetrating oils. They contain a certain amount of coarse pigment, partially protecting the wood from ultraviolet radiation. And since they do not form a surface film, you will not have to spend a long time and tediously sanding off the peeling coating when updating it.

To achieve best results When choosing between film-forming and penetrating coatings, remember the following:

Wood has long been one of the most durable and environmentally friendly materials. Therefore, it is used in repair and construction. She has high level decorativeness, which is why consumers often choose it to decorate their apartments and houses. However, wood acts as a “living” material. Therefore, it needs processing that prevents spoilage and rotting. Wood can be treated with synthetic agents and traditional methods. They will be discussed in the article.

Using traditional methods

Wood can be protected from moisture and rotting folk remedies. They have many advantages over synthetic compounds. This type of treatment is cheaper. It is environmentally safe and hypoallergenic. In addition, it is available to any home craftsman.

Wood can be treated with propolis and sunflower oil. For this purpose, materials are taken in a ratio of 1:3. They should be mixed well and applied to a surface that has been previously cleaned of dust using a soft sponge. This method of protecting wood from moisture and rotting is good because it is as strong as possible and helps prevent the formation of microorganisms. However, there is one big drawback, which is expressed in the fact that the material acquires an increased ability to ignite. Therefore, you should consider whether it is advisable to use such impregnation in each individual case.

Quite often, consumers use iron sulfate to treat wood. To do this, you should purchase a ready-made solution that mixes well. A soft sponge or rag is dipped in it, which is used to impregnate clean wood.

Protecting wood from moisture and rotting with iron sulfate is ideal for round logs, since the product is not too expensive. Also extremely effective. With strong impregnation, the material will be ready to serve for quite a long time, without requiring additional protection work. The only downside of this product is the long drying time.

Wood impregnated with iron sulfate should be left in the open air, and exposure of the material to sunlight should be avoided. You can use a special canopy for this. The material is left to dry from a week to a month.

Use of bitumen and automobile oil

One more excellent option Protecting wood from moisture and rotting with your own hands is the use of bitumen. This method is effective, but from an environmental point of view it is not completely safe. This is due to the fact that concrete has the ability to release harmful substances when heated. For this reason, the use of bitumen is not always recommended.

Does not apply completely environmental materials and automobile oil. However, it is widely used for wood processing. Oil can protect against rot, mold and bark beetle, but it will not prevent fire, but will only contribute to it when exposed to flame. Therefore, this remedy cannot always be used.

Using the Finnish method

Protecting wood from moisture and rot can be done using the Finnish method. It is expressed in the use of the following materials:

  • salt;
  • flour;
  • water;
  • iron sulfate;
  • dry slaked lime.

The method is harmless, but is used to process the material that forms the basis of fences and roofs. The composition has unique properties, which prevent its rapid washing out with water. To prepare the mixture, the components must be mixed to form a paste. Its main part will consist of flour and water. The composition is heated over low heat, then applied to the wood warm in two layers. After the first layer has completely absorbed and dried, you can begin applying the second.

Use of water-soluble antiseptics

Wood can be protected from moisture and rot by using water-soluble antiseptics. They are able to create a kind of barrier on the surface, but are washed out from constant contact with water. Therefore, after application, such a mixture must be periodically updated.

Among other similar solutions, we can highlight ammonium and sodium silicofluorides, which are odorless powders. They become transparent upon contact with water. Impregnation with their help must be carried out very carefully so that the composition completely penetrates the fibers.

Another treatment option is sodium fluoride. It is a white powder and is easily washed off with water. This substance has one big advantage, which is expressed in the fact that it does not cause corrosion of the metal that may be in the tree. If you want to protect wood from rotting and moisture, then you can use imported substances that contain the following components:

  • zinc;
  • chlorine;
  • sodium;
  • potassium borax.

Such mixtures will be more expensive, but they protect the wood perfectly. It is not recommended to use them in residential premises, as they are not so environmentally friendly and can emit toxic substances.

Use of organic and oil pastes

In addition to the above antiseptics, you can use special organic substances and pastes. They consist of water-soluble antiseptics, silicon fluorides and binding components. The materials are resistant to moisture, so they can be used for treating external wooden structures. Over time, the paste is washed out, so it must be periodically applied to the base.

To better protect structures after treatment, they should be covered with building material. waterproofing film. Wood can be protected from rotting and moisture by using oil antiseptics. This should include technical oils that are toxic. Among their main advantages are high antiseptic properties.

The material is not washed out by water and protects the wood from almost all types of fungus. Oil-type compositions have a pungent odor and dark brown color. In a residential area, such an approach to protection is impractical, while oil antiseptics are excellent for piles, utility poles and bridge supports.

Using drying oil

Protecting wood from moisture and rotting with drying oil can also be done. For this purpose, some varieties of the mentioned composition are used. Among others, semi-natural mixtures should be highlighted, which allow the formation of a hard film with a high level of gloss on the surface. The base becomes water resistant. Semi-natural drying oil is good because it can be used in combination with paints and varnishes or as a primer.

Modifiers are added to combined formulations to improve the quality of the mixture. You can use combined drying oils not only to protect wood, but also as a preparation before applying paint or plaster. When protecting wood from moisture and rotting with your own hands using drying oil, you should not forget that the liquid will dry out within a day or more. During this period, no coat of paint or plaster should be applied. Synthetic drying oils can be used for impregnation, and also act as a basis for diluting dark oil paints. Synthetic drying oil is excellent for external treatment.

Products for wood in contact with the ground

Wood can be protected from moisture and rotting in the ground using NEOMID 430 Eco. It is suitable for creating a reliable barrier on the surface of a material that is in constant contact with the ground during operation. This substance is an antifungal antiseptic with non-washable properties.

The material can be exposed not only to contact with the soil, but also to the influence of ground salts, as well as precipitation. The composition can also be used to coat external walls, bearing structures beams, floors, joists and beams. The mixture is excellent for door blocks and window openings.

This means of protecting wood from moisture and rot can be applied to rafter systems, fences and hedges, as well as structural elements that are exposed to difficult atmospheric conditions and low temperatures. The described impregnation is radical. It is suitable for difficult operating conditions.

Antiseptic impregnation "Senezh"

Senezh can be used to protect wood from rotting and moisture. This antiseptic impregnation has a filter that reduces the exposure of the material to sunlight. The composition is transparent. It is suitable for new and previously treated walls with antiseptic. Among the main properties are absorption into wood fibers and the formation of a weather-resistant material on its surface. polymer coating, which is distinguished by its dirt- and water-repellent properties.

The number of layers applied can vary from 1 to 3. Approximately 60 g of composition will be needed per square meter with a single layer application. You can apply impregnation using a roller, brush or spray. This type of protection dries to touch within one hour, while the base can be used three days after application.

Protecting wood inside the sauna

When choosing to protect wood from moisture and rotting in a bathhouse, you should pay attention to Tikkurila Supi Arctic. This acrylic copolymer belongs to the M1 environmental class. Water is used as a solvent. The product is applied with a brush to a dry surface, where a film is formed that prevents the absorption of moisture and dirt.

Another colorless impregnation is “Tikkurila Supi Saunasuoya”. It has a subtle odor and contains anti-mold components. The main task is to protect the ceiling and walls in bathhouses with high humidity. This mixture also applies to environmentally friendly materials, therefore not dangerous to humans.

The best bath products

Choosing better protection wood from moisture and rotting, you should pay attention to Teknos Sauna-Natura. This product has a creamy consistency and a subtle odor. Excellent for protecting wood inside saunas and baths, including steam rooms. The solvent is water. The mixture can be tinted in different colors.

Belinka Interier Sauna is made on the basis of acrylic resins, which has water and special additives among its ingredients. This colorless protective agent is used for wood premises. The material has a slight odor, and the color of the surface does not change after the film is formed. The texture just stands out.

It is necessary to use the composition by applying it in two layers with a sprayer, roller or brush. The first coat will dry within 2 hours, subsequent coats can be applied after three hours. This impregnation has good value for money.

“Senezh sauna” is made on the basis of acrylic resins. This mixture contains special components and water. The transparent protective agent is solvent-free and prevents contaminants from settling on the surface. Fungus and insects do not penetrate inside. The protective agent is applied to a previously cleaned surface using a brush, velor or foam roller. You can use a spray gun for convenience. The manufacturer recommends applying 1 or 2 layers. This applies to the steam room. If wood processing is carried out in other rooms of the bathhouse, then the number of layers can be increased to three.

Finally

Before you start protecting wood, you need to select the means. They may be designed to prevent contact of the material with moisture or soil. There are formulations on sale that provide comprehensive protection. If you want to choose an environmentally friendly mixture, then it is better to use folk remedies, but more effective solutions impregnations become factory-produced.

Wood has been used as a building material for over a hundred years. They prefer to use it for the construction of baths, residential buildings, and summer cottages. It is the most environmentally friendly, safe and warm material with low thermal conductivity. Wood also values ​​its aesthetically attractive appearance. Therefore, it is often used as a decorative element for the exterior and interior decoration of log houses. But the service life of wooden material can be shortened due to atmospheric influences on it. After all, moisture, insects, precipitation, wind, sunlight, fungus and fire are dangerous for the strength and other characteristics of wood. And to extend the service life of this building material, it is necessary to provide it with reliable and timely protection.

The main causes of wood destruction according to scientific developments

Wood is a living, natural material that contains a certain percentage of moisture. The amount of moisture varies depending on the ambient temperature, air humidity and other weather conditions. Water has a strong influence on the structure of wood: on a cloudy, rainy day it swells, and on a summer day, on the contrary, it dries out. The strength of the structure suffers greatly from these constant changes. Therefore, wood must be protected from moisture.

Photo: proper storage lumber in a stack.

When saving wooden material from water, there is no need to trim (cover) it with film or oilcloth. After all, wood must breathe and a violation of air exchange will lead to the formation of an even more serious problem - damage to the wooden material by fungus or mold. And they, in turn, will provoke the development of putrefactive processes, which will lead in the near future to the complete destruction of the entire structure.

Photo: improper storage of timber in a stack.

How to deal with the atmospheric influences on wood material

The condition of wood directly depends on the natural conditions in which it is located. Ultraviolet radiation and moisture destroy the wood structure, changing its shade and density. Biological agents and insects destroy the strength characteristics of the material. Wood is both food and home for wood-boring beetles. They, being in the structure of the tree, destroy its strength, making many holes (passages) in it. Precipitation and temperature changes lead to rotting of wood. The first signs of putrefactive processes in wooden material are the formation of fungi and mold on its surface.

To provide the wood with proper and reliable protection, it must be periodically treated with protective compounds. Antiseptics are the best way to combat the appearance of microorganisms and insects. And to prevent moisture from penetrating into the wood structure, film-forming, water-repellent compounds should be used: varnishes, paints, etc.

There are a large number of complex products available on the modern construction market. They perform a protective function, thanks to the fungicides included in the composition, and a decorative one.

Expert opinions on protecting wood from biological agents

Yaroslavl decorative antiseptic PREMIUM will help protect wood from biological agents and various insects. This product has a lot of positive feedback among developers and builders. It is intended to protect wood from atmospheric agents and biological contamination for 7 years, as well as for decorative finishing. It also prevents the influence of sunlight on wooden material, trapping ultraviolet radiation in the outer layer. You can use PREMIA decorative antiseptic both inside and outside the room.

It has an environmentally friendly composition with minimal solvent content. It contains highly effective fungicides that protect wood from blue staining, fungus, mold, and wood-boring beetles. They are also capable of eliminating damage to the material that has already begun by biological agents.

This product can improve and decorative characteristics wooden material, giving it the shade of any type of wood after application, thanks to the alkyd varnish and pigments included in the composition. Antiseptic PREMIA emphasizes the structure of wood and tints it uniformly. This composition is easy to apply, absorbs well into the structure of the material and dries quickly (24 hours after application). After processing, a breathable coating is formed on the surface of the wooden material, through which you can see the pattern of the unique structure of the wood.

One of the best decorative and at the same time antiseptic agents intended for treating log houses, bathhouses and other wooden structures is decorative Bystrolak from the company " Yaroslavl paints" The basis of its safe and economical composition is alkyd varnish, pigments, and fungicides. It can be used for exterior work (painting benches, fences, window frames etc.) and indoors (apply to doors, walls, furniture).

The resulting layer of varnish dries very quickly; at an air temperature of +20, it may take only 5 hours. Bystrolak is resistant to the negative effects of atmospheric phenomena. He is not afraid of sunlight, precipitation, or temperature changes. After applying Bystrolak, the surface of the wood acquires a beautiful, glossy shine. And the structure of the material under the resulting layer is not hidden, but emphasized and stands out favorably. There are 9 shades in the palette of this product that imitate various types of wood (ash, rosewood, golden oak, walnut, pine, Oregon, mahogany, teak, rowan).

There are many protective decorative compounds for finishing coating and ensuring protection of wooden structures. But they all have either high cost or low quality. I consider Neomid Biocolor Ultra to be the best product in terms of quality and price. This domestic company has been proven over the years; consumers value the products for their environmental friendliness and effectiveness.

Biocolor Ultra is made from alkyd based. It provides the wooden material with reliable protection from weather conditions, cracking, mold, rot, and insects. It contains microwax, which provides elasticity to the resulting coating and additional waterproof characteristics. This decorative product protects wood from sunlight and prevents it from fading, thanks to the presence of a UV filter in the composition.

Biocolor Ultra can be used indoors and outdoors. It does not affect the structure of the wood, it only emphasizes its beauty. Easily applied to a wooden surface, a semi-glossy, translucent layer is formed. The color palette of the decorative composition consists of 9 shades, including colorless. But it can be tinted with special pastes.

Among the materials for country house construction the tree was and remains one of the most popular. Wood retains heat well, does not interfere with air exchange, is easy to process, is environmentally flawless, etc. It is also important that there is more than enough of it in Russia. At the same time, the tree is very vulnerable: it is afraid of fire, it is destroyed under the influence environment, insect activity, susceptible to mold formation. A significant extension of the service life of wooden products and structures is impossible without ensuring reliable protection of wood from the effects of the above factors.

To ensure that your house retains its appearance for as long as possible and that its structures are not exposed to the adverse effects of the environment and biological pests, use specialized wood protection products.



Regardless of the size of the structure, the external surfaces that need protection the most are the foundation and plinth (usually made of brick or concrete), the façade and the roof. To protect wooden walls and give them an attractive appearance, use special compounds. Their range on the market is huge. And to understand this diversity, you should start by defining the desired result. Let's list the most important parameters protective compounds.

Appearance

If you plan to preserve the wood grain, then use glazes, impregnation, varnishes or oil. (They also allow you to refine its appearance). Typically, manufacturers offer about 10 ready-made shades to choose from. You should also pay attention to the degree of gloss - depending on it, the surface will turn out glossy or matte.

Wherein wood type usually does not affect the choice of coating. Rocks that are difficult to process (very valuable) are not used for facades.

Completely paint the surface paints and enamels. When using machine tinting, almost any color becomes available to the consumer - from black to bright orange. The main thing is to clarify whether it is suitable for facades (that is, whether it is resistant to UV rays).

Price

The cost of a can, as a rule, directly depends on the quality of the coating obtained. The better the product, the more expensive it is. However, unreasonably expensive formulations do not stay on the market for long. There are three price categories:

  • budget materials (economy class) - “Senezh”, “Aquatex”, “Texturol”, Pinotex, etc.;
  • general consumer (middle class) – Belinka, Tikkurila;
  • professional (premium class) - brands Ace, Dulux, Johnestones, Teknos, Woodworks.

If the cost budget materials does not exceed 100 rubles. per 1 kg, then in the middle class it ranges from 200 to 300 rubles, and in the premium class it starts from (c) 350 rubles. Accordingly, the average service life of paints (at proper preparation basics) looks something like this: 1–3 years; 5–6 years; 10–12 years old. When choosing materials (especially imported ones), you should carefully read the instructions and ask sellers.

Consumption

When choosing a composition, the calculation should be made based not on the price of the can, but on the amount of paint that will be used per 1 square meter. m, since the consumption of different materials can differ quite significantly. Accurately calculate the required amount of composition for wood, since it is necessary to take into account several factors at once - the degree of absorption, relief, qualifications of the craftsman, etc.). The banks indicate only the average consumption, but the actual consumption will be higher. Therefore, if the construction site is located at a considerable distance from the store, it is better to buy the product with a reserve.

Different colors price categories They also have different hiding power (the ability to completely and evenly change the color of the base). If a bright shade is used, saving on paint may result in the need to apply more layers, which will ultimately increase the cost of the coating.

And one more nuance: Russian manufacturers often sell and produce paint “by weight” – in kilograms, while European manufacturers traditionally measure it in liters, and Americans – in gallons and quarts. Therefore, when making calculations, it should be taken into account that 1 kg of the composition is not equal to 1 liter (density is 1.2–1.4 kg/l).

Environmental friendliness

If for interior work it is desirable to use odorless compounds, then for facades this condition is not so important. In any case, various oils can be classified as environmentally friendly (mainly due to their natural origin). Note that some manufacturers indicate on the packaging all the components included in the product, so that consumers know exactly what they are using to treat the walls of their homes.

Acrylic compounds water-based are considered the most environmentally friendly. They dry noticeably faster than organic paints and do not have a pungent odor, but have not yet found widespread use mainly due to their relatively high prices and lack of “consumption habit”.

The most “harmful” are oil and alkyd materials. Their use without protective equipment can cause allergies and other negative reactions, but the habit ingrained in our minds automatically leads to their next purchase and, accordingly, “harassment” of the craftsmen.

Translucent formulations

Leaving the structure of the wood visible, they serve to protect and decorate both new, newly erected buildings (that is, a good, clean, previously uncoated base: rounded logs, new lining, etc.), and to update existing coatings. However, it should be taken into account that the shade of such material appears differently in different types of wood.

Translucent compounds have protective properties to a much greater extent than paints. Firstly, the content of coloring pigments in them is an order of magnitude lower, which allows them to be much better absorbed into the wood, protecting it from atmospheric influences “from the inside”; secondly, they contain much more special additives (fungicides, etc.) that prevent rotting and destruction of the tree.

Impregnations and varnishes, due to their antiseptic content, protect wood from fungi, UV rays and precipitation (snow and rain). After drying, the impregnation creates a matte finish, and varnishes create a glossy, transparent or tinted finish; in some cases, in order to “mask” sun-grayed wood or repaint old coatings, the base is completely hidden. If the surface will be subject to increased loads, use yacht varnish.

WITH practical point For vision, tinted materials are preferred: the main protection against ultraviolet radiation is provided by the coloring pigments included in their composition. They are the ones who “take on” the “blow” of UV rays. They are usually made from minerals, so the color for a long time remains pristine.

For complete protection, one layer is enough, but it is better to apply two. Firstly, when applying one layer it is easy to miss small areas of the surface, which will subsequently become a source of destruction - unpainted wood “turns black” already next year. Secondly, due to varying absorbency across the entire area of ​​the wood, differences in gloss may occur. And one more thing: if the wood is not uniform in its absorbent properties (and this happens due to different cuts), then when applying the first layer of colored impregnation, stains may appear, so it is better to take a colorless composition for the first layer.

The service life of such materials in the climatic conditions of central Russia is approximately 10 years. It is possible, of course, that there may be some change in color on the sunny side in five years, but this will not affect the protection of the tree in any way.

Antiseptics are a colorless (sometimes with a faint amber or greenish tint) fungicidal solution that prevents rotting. The main task of such materials is to be absorbed into the wood as deeply as possible, so they always have a very liquid consistency. Among them there are compositions intended to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold - they are applied only to pure wood.

If the base has already been subjected to fungal infection, then all areas of damage are cleaned as much as possible and special formulations with a large number of active substances are used, in particular those that can whiten the surface that has changed its color.

Fire retardant materials. When heated, they swell like foam, preventing fire from reaching the wall. However, they can resist for no more than 15 minutes. It should be understood that these compounds do not protect the tree 100% from fire and will not save you from intentional arson, but a dropped cigarette butt will most likely go out without causing a fire. Since fire-retardant materials are not a finishing layer, they are coated with paints, varnishes or impregnations, which, in turn, do not always have “non-flammable” properties. Therefore, it is worth remembering that careful handling of fire will protect the wood much more reliably than any impregnation. If the risk of fire is still high enough, it is better to insure your home against fire than to rely on a fire retardant.

Oils They are prepared using natural oils, so they can penetrate deeper into the wood. After treatment with oils, the surface turns out matte or with a silky shine (in this case, the pattern of the structure becomes more saturated, as if wet).

Systems They are a combination of a primer applied to bare wood and a film-forming material applied as a finishing coat. In rare cases, there is also a sublayer - an intermediate “link”. It is advisable to use products from the same manufacturer systematically, otherwise sad consequences in the form of detachment and other troubles will not take long to arrive.

Therefore, we remind you once again: before buying a protective composition, you should very carefully read the instructions for use not only on the can, but also on the manufacturer’s website.

Both the primer and the film-forming material are tinted, with the first providing protection from fungi, and the second from ultraviolet rays (due to added pigments), rain and mechanical stress (abrasion). The film-forming material is more like transparent paint. Unlike varnish, it conducts water vapor better and is more elastic. However, UV rays “burn out” the coating, especially from the sunny side. Therefore, after 5 years (in the Moscow region) it should be restored, that is, a couple more layers should be applied.

Paints and enamels

Paint is necessary when you want to completely hide the base. Replace old paintwork or hide defects in clean, fresh wood. Such compositions are made water-based or solvent-based (oil, alkyd); and be universal or intended for outdoor use.

The purpose of such a coating is to adhere well to the wood, creating an opaque one-color film (its thickness in multi-layer systems - primer + two layers of paint - is about 100 microns). The sun burns off about 10 microns per year, which corresponds to the thickness of a human hair, which means that a film of 100 microns will become thinner within 10 years and should be renewed periodically.

As a rule, paints only for exterior woodwork are very expensive, as they must have good elasticity combined with weather resistance, adhesion to wood and tensile strength. For example, House & Trim Stain (Ace, USA) costs 500 rubles. per quart (0.95 l); Cuprinol Landscape Shades – RUB 1,605. for 2.5 l. You can also note the Nordica Eco paint from the Finnish concern Teknos. Produced by unique technology water-soluble paint creates a durable glossy finish with a self-cleaning effect on the façade.

For wood, many people out of habit buy universal paints, but they should not be particularly trusted. If the description states that the composition is suitable for concrete, metal, wood, brick, plaster, drywall, etc., etc., then, most likely, some useful properties had to be sacrificed for the sake of versatility. In particular, such as adhesion to each specific surface, resistance to fading and peeling, etc.

Domestic solvent-based products have the appropriate designations: MA-15 – oil-based and PF-115 – pentaphthalic (alkyd) paint (from the consumer’s point of view, this is the same as MA-15, but a little better). The first number – “1” – means that the paint is used for outdoor use. The obvious “advantage” of these materials is their low cost (their cost fluctuates around 80 rubles/kg). As for quality, some paints are produced in accordance with GOST, others in accordance with TU ( technical specifications). And therefore, with the same names, they have different consumer properties.

If quality is more important, you need to take a product made in accordance with GOST, but if funds are limited (you need to meet the budget) or the building is not valuable (temporary shed, utility room, toilet), a product that meets the specifications is sufficient.

The range of imported paints (produced in Russia using foreign technologies) is wider, and you need to focus on the manufacturer’s instructions. The most widely represented brands in Russia are Caparol, Dufa, Dulux, Johnestones, Sadolin, Sikkens, Teknos. There are very good Turkish ones - Marshall, American ones - Ace, Sherwin Williams.

Primers

The primer adheres to the surface better than paint, which means the finish will stick to it better than bare wood. In addition, there are compositions specifically designed for treating resinous rocks in order to prevent the action of the resin on the paint layer (for example, Dulux Aluminum Wood Primer costs 580 rubles per 1 liter).

Unfortunately, traditionally paint is viewed as independent material, thinking something like this: “Why do you need a primer if good paint it will lie down and serve for a long time, and if it doesn’t, it means it’s bad.” The question is, why then do manufacturers develop and produce primers? They are used if they want to get a high-quality result, in particular, when performing particularly important work or if the base is in poor condition. Usually, one primer coat is sufficient at a cost comparable to an extra coat of paint.

Surface preparation

In most cases, the cause of premature failure is paint coating– incorrect or incomplete preparation. Although there is nothing tricky about it - you need to remove everything that holds weakly and wash (dust) the base. However, this procedure requires a significant investment of effort and time, often it is even more labor-intensive than the painting itself.

The flaky coating is cleaned off with a scraper, a drill with an attachment, a grinder or a special chemical. In some places, the rotten wood is removed (sealing the “wound” with putty). It’s not a bad idea to go over well-adhering paint with a scraper - it may only look normal, but with the slightest pressure it will fly off like a husk. The durable parts of the coating are sanded along the edges (at the joints) and wiped with a rag. If the paint is durable, it is enough to wash it.

Coating compatibility

One rule should be remembered: if paints based on an organic solvent (alkyd or oil) are applied to any old coating, then water-based ones are applied either to clean wood or using a special primer (this is stated in the instructions for use), because most “water-based materials” “They are not friendly” with old oil paints. There are also formulations with wax additives. They can only be repainted after a certain time has passed (after about two years, when the wax fades).

Impregnations are usually universal and compatible with most finishing materials. However, it is better to pre-treat a small area. If within one to two hours the incompatibility does not manifest itself as swelling, bubbles do not appear, and the newly applied composition does not collect in the form of droplets or stretch behind the brush in strips - then everything is in order - you can paint.

Treatment

Surfaces that will be in direct contact with the ground are treated with antiseptics using the method of partial (for example, the poles are placed in a barrel and filled with the composition) or complete immersion (with a holding time of approximately 1 minute per millimeter of thickness). If this is not possible, apply two layers with a brush, and start the second when the first has already been absorbed, but has not yet dried.

In other cases, use a brush or low-pressure sprayer with a crevice nozzle. And under no circumstances should you use a roller, as it will not allow you to saturate the surface, but will only splatter the impregnation.

If the base has already been subjected to fungal infection, then all large “growths” are cleaned off mechanically, after which “heavy artillery” is used - special compositions with a large number of active substances.

As for paint, you should work with it dry. clear weather, since rain can wash away the undried layer. The scorching sun, on the contrary, leads to very rapid drying of the paint, which affects the ease of work and may cause the coating to “wrinkle.” That is, it is advisable to paint the south side of the house either early in the morning or in the evening. When there is a strong wind, dust rises, settling on the coating and sticking to it, which looks very unsightly. It is best to use a brush for application, especially for the first layer. It “rubs” the composition into the wood, and thus it is soaked deeper, making the system more reliable and lasts longer. If there are many layers, you can apply it with a spray for greater uniformity. Special attention are given to the ends, which are much more porous and, therefore, more absorbent of the material. They are covered with a large number of layers, since this is one of the most vulnerable places in the wood.

REVIEW OF WOOD PROTECTION PRODUCTS

Protective glaze for wood in the form of cream (Remmers, Germany).

PURPOSE: external works - protection wooden buildings from blue and dampness, and creating a decorative surface. The product is suitable for treating shutters, balconies, roof overhangs, high-quality solid fences, pergolas, gazebos, carports, facade cladding.

PROPERTIES: The secret of Aidol Holzschutz-Creme is its creamy consistency, which is due to the presence of an innovative component in its composition - a water-oil emulsion. Its mechanism of action differs from the action of gel glazes on the market. The latter, falling on the surface of the wood, a short time become fluid, distributed over the surface, after which they return to a gel-like state and their penetration into wood is limited by the time they remain in the fluid state. Aidol

Holzschutz-Creme spreads during self-distribution (liquefaction) and penetrates deeply into the wood structure (along the fibers by 2 cm; into painted wood by 3-4 mm, into unpainted wood - up to 7 mm), without leaving drips, stains or gaps. Thanks to this, even a beginner who picks up a brush for the first time can easily cope with surfaces of any complexity. The creamy state of the product allows you to process vertical and ceiling surfaces, and also significantly save time and money by reducing the number of layers required for high-quality processing.

Aidol Holzschutz-Creme does not form hard deposits, but despite this, the thin layer is quite durable - it does not crack, tear and does not need sanding. The product is marked with the quality mark “RAL – Wood Protection”, which indicates an official assessment of its effectiveness against pests and an official assessment of its safety for health and the environment when used as prescribed. Aidol Holzschutz-Creme is released in 6 color solutions under noble wood species.

APPLICATION: Aidol Holzschutz-Creme is ready to use and does not require stirring. The surface to be treated must be dry and clean. The cream is applied with a soft brush along the direction of the fibers. For unhewn wood, one pass with a brush is enough; for planed wood, two will be required. Approximately 12 hours later, after the first layer has completely dried, the second is applied.

RESTRICTIONS: colorless Aidol Holzschutz-Creme should not be used on surfaces directly exposed to weather conditions (such as roof eaves). In this case, it is advisable to use this product only as a primer. Contact of processed objects with the surface of the earth is also unacceptable. The product is not suitable for the protection of surfaces in direct contact with food and feed, as well as for the treatment of beehives, greenhouses and saunas.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES: It is recommended to use gloves when working with Aidol Holzschutz-Creme; waste water or soil is unacceptable, since its components are harmful to organisms living in water.


Product for repairing and decorating wooden surfaces (Chromos Svetlost, Croatia).

The Chromos Svetlost company dates back to 1956. The plant produces a wide range of paints and varnishes - enamels, primers, alkyd-based varnishes, nitrocellulose paints and varnishes, tree protective equipment and azure varnishes, facade acrylic and silicate paints, materials for the automotive industry and road markings. Since 2008, the company's products have been represented in Russia.

PURPOSE: External and internal work - treatment of any wooden surfaces - windows, doors, garden and home furniture, repair of minor defects - scratches, chips.

PROPERTIES: the composition is made on the basis of alkyd resins, with the addition of UV-resistant pigments and water-repellent components and forms a transparent coating that emphasizes the natural structure of the wood and gives it a silky gloss. The varnish film reliably protects the wood not only from precipitation and sunlight, but even from minor mechanical influences.

The release of the product in a small spray bottle makes Lazurit Lak convenient for use at home and does not require professional skills. However, standard precautions are required as the product contains organic solvents and has a synthetic smell.

APPLICATION: To update with Lazurit Lak coating, the surface is lightly sanded and cleaned of dust, old oil or nitro paints are completely removed. The container is thoroughly shaken and directed onto the surface from a distance of 20-30 cm. To avoid drips, the product is applied in a thin, even layer. Usually two or three layers of Lazurit Lak with an intermediate drying time of 2-4 hours are sufficient. Surfaces not intended for treatment, but accidentally stained, are cleaned with solvent or white spirit.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES: Avoid contact of the product with mucous membranes and thoroughly ventilate the area where work is being carried out.


Protective impregnation for wood (Sadolin, Estonia).

PURPOSE: external work - protection of wooden products and structures: walls, window frames, balcony and staircase railings, decorative elements, pieces of furniture (especially garden furniture), etc. Suitable for decorative finishing of both sawn and planed wood of any type of wood.

PROPERTIES: the product provides reliable preventive protection for a healthy tree, protecting it from the appearance of fungus, mold, insects and blue stains. The composition penetrates deeply into the wood structure and allows you to achieve the best possible result at a low cost of processing. So, for full service for 5 years in the conditions of the Moscow region, one primer layer of Protex Base and two layers of Protex Wood Protector are enough, creating a noble matte finish.

If you want more “gloss,” the range includes Protex Lacquered Wood Protector. The finely porous coating formed after drying protects the wood from atmospheric influences and at the same time allows it to “breathe”, gives a noble shade to the wood and emphasizes its natural structure. The presence of special pigments in the formulation protects the material from ultraviolet rays and, therefore, from fading in the sun. Please note that the entire series of Protex impregnations is intended for outdoor use only. The series includes varnishes for interior work.

APPLICATION: the base must be dry and clean. The impregnation is thoroughly mixed. The surface is sprayed in two or three layers. To obtain a uniformly colored surface, 20-30 minutes after application, the remaining impregnation is removed with a rag.


Antiseptic primer for wood protection (Belinka Belles, Slovenia).

PURPOSE: external and internal work - impregnation of wooden surfaces located outdoors or in wet rooms - baths, saunas, summer showers, basements (except steam rooms).

PROPERTIES: In nature, wood is breathable, and it is thanks to this that the constant temperature and humidity in wooden houses is ensured - that is, the wood itself regulates the microclimate of the room. Impregnant is a new product in the Belinka range based on alkyd resins and water, containing effective biocides. It is easily absorbed into the wood and “works” inside it, protecting the new wood from rot, blue stains and pests, without changing the permeability of the material and allowing the wood to “breathe”.

The product is difficult to wash out with water, which allows it to be successfully used on facades and in damp rooms. Impregnation is used only to prevent “healthy” wood and is necessarily covered with decorative glaze or other finishing coat. The new series includes Interier and Interier Sauna indoors, and Exterier for outdoor use.

APPLICATION: Before use, the product is thoroughly mixed. The undiluted product is applied by brush, roller, or by dipping or pouring over dry, clean wood.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES: When working, protect your eyes and skin and thoroughly ventilate the room. The product may cause an allergic reaction. The product is very toxic to aquatic organisms - avoid getting the product into open water.


Wood protection system (Teknos, Finland).

The largest private enterprise in Finland, the Teknos concern, was founded in 1948. At the moment, it occupies about 40% of the coatings market in Finland, being one of the leaders in the production of industrial and general construction paints in the Scandinavian countries. The company pays special attention to research, as well as the development and mastery of modern chemical technologies.

The assortment for protecting facades includes a whole line of Woodex materials. It presents two systems - an organic-based system, more suitable for treating Woodex facades with Woodex Kyllaste impregnation, and a water-based, more environmentally friendly Woodex Aqua and Woodex KyllasteAqua.

PURPOSE: external processing of wooden walls, cornices, doors, window frames, fences, pillars, verandas, areas under roof overhangs, above-water parts of berths. Woodex Kyllaste can be used as a stand-alone product for preserving wooden buildings for a period of about six months.

PROPERTIES: The system includes two products: Woodex Kyllaste antiseptic primer and Woodex finishing agent. It is this combination that provides the wood with reliable protection and durability of the coating (approximately 5–7 years if the application technology is followed).

Transparent impregnation Woodex Kyllaste is based on naphthenes, which partially replace linseed oil. Therefore, it does not form a surface film and the wood appears dry immediately after treatment. The product is available in three colors: colorless is used to protect untreated wooden surfaces, green is intended for those places that will come into contact with the ground or water (piers, boats, poles and stairs), brown - where the coating will be subject to heavy wear, for example , on stairs, terraces and piers.

Naturally, the structure of the wood remains visible in both cases. The composition contains substances that prevent rotting and mold development, and has water-repellent properties. For finishing Woodex is a thixotropic transparent antiseptic on an alkyd basis with the addition of modified linseed and fish oils. The product is easy to apply, it is completely absorbed deeply into the surface of the wood, leaving its pattern visible.

Its main “responsibilities” are to provide protection from atmospheric influences and protect against UV rays, which is made possible due to the presence of expensive pigments in the composition.

APPLICATION: Woodex Kyllaste is applied to a clean, dry base with a brush, paint brush, spray or by dipping into a container of product for 0.25–2 hours. 1–2 hours after treatment, remove excess with a dry cloth.

After 10–20 hours, the surface is treated with a brush with the tinted Woodex product (undiluted or diluted by 10% with Teknosolv 1621 or Woodex Kyllaste thinner). Further, to obtain a translucent saturated color, you can limit yourself to two layers of undiluted Woodex, applied with a brush, brush or spray, and to make the coating less transparent, a third layer is required.

Hard-to-wash-out antiseptic for wood exposed to high humidity conditions (Lakra Sintez, Moscow).

PURPOSE: external and internal work - processing of plinths, facades, internal walls of houses, parts of fences, fences, greenhouses, hydraulic structures, playgrounds, garden furniture and other wooden structures operated in high humidity.

In the spring of 2008, a new series of wood preservatives, “Healthy Home,” appeared in the assortment of the Lakra Sintez company. It presents “Ognebio” products, which combine two functions - protecting wood from fire and biodestruction: “Bleach” is intended to destroy fungal infections and remove “traces” of mold and blue stains; “Anti-mold” is effective for processing freshly sawn timber during transportation, as well as processing wood that will not come into contact with water; "Bio" is used in conditions of high humidity.

PROPERTIES: a hard-to-wash-out antiseptic based on chromium, copper and boron compounds, suitable for wood exposed to harsh conditions, for example, in contact with soil, condensation and atmospheric moisture. The antiseptic penetrates deeply into the wood structure, chemically binds to it and then does not release harmful compounds into the environment.

The product extends the life of wood by two to five times, not only destroying mold, rot, and blue fungi, but also preventing their further appearance, and also protects against insect pests).

When using it, the wood is painted in a greenish-brown color of varying intensity, which does not interfere with subsequent painting and gluing of the treated surfaces. The period of bioprotective activity with double application is 25 years, with an absorption of the finished solution of 175–200 kg/m3. m – up to 45 years.

APPLICATION: onto a dry, clean surface not treated with film-forming and water-repellent materials using a brush or spray in two or three layers. Treatment is possible by short-term immersion in a bath of solution. After applying the product and until it is completely fixed, do not allow contact with water to eliminate the possibility of it being washed out.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES: When working, use special clothing and personal protective equipment, and ventilate the room well.


A product for eliminating mold and mildew on any surfaces (“NPP Rogneda”, Russia).

PURPOSE: interior and exterior work – destruction of fungus, mold, algae, mosses and lichens on any surfaces (brick, concrete, plaster, wood, cardboard, drywall, ceramic tiles, etc.); preventive treatment of porous substrates against primary and re-infection, including before painting.

PROPERTIES: First of all, it is pleasant to work with (as it does not contain chlorine and does not smell when applied) but at the same time a very effective antiseptic. It is equally good for preventive treatment of new buildings, and for the destruction of highly developed fungal infections, not only during construction and repair work, but also in everyday life, for example, for cleaning tiles or for treating walls before wallpapering.

Contains active antiseptic components. Without changing it decorative properties It is easily absorbed and penetrates deeply into any material, effectively destroying both spores and developed forms of biological damage.

The only thing it cannot do is whiten surfaces that have become darkened as a result of the action of microorganisms. For this purpose, you should use the compositions “Rime No. 1” and “Rime No. 2”. Since the composition is highly soluble in water, during preventive treatment it should be “covered” with a waterproof coating. It can be various paints, for example, water-dispersion paints of the “Dali” series or texture compositions such as “Aquatex” or “Aquatex Extra”. This “complex” will provide reliable protection for 6–7 years.

ECO-FRIENDLY: the product does not contain chlorine, the coating does not emit substances harmful to human health and the environment.

APPLICATION: The base is cleaned of loose fungi and mold, washed with water and dried. In case of deep damage, remove the damaged material to a healthy layer. The antiseptic is applied at a temperature of the composition and surface of at least +5 ° C with a consumption of 1 liter per 4–20 sq.m. (to destroy infection) or 1 liter per 10–20 sq.m. (for prevention). In case of severe infestation, treatment should be repeated after four to six hours. After 1–2 days, the remnants of biodestruction products are cleaned off with a brush and washed off with water.

To ensure long-term protection (especially when used outdoors), the surface should be additionally (if it has been washed with water) treated with an antiseptic at a rate of 1 liter per 10–20 sq.m. and cover with appropriate protective and decorative material.


Table. Wood protection compounds



To extend the life of wood products and give them an attractive appearance, various means are used. Choice suitable remedy will depend on what result needs to be obtained - this is the first condition. The second condition is the condition the product was in initially (high-quality or low-quality). But in any case, it is necessary to use special antiseptic and protective agents that will help protect against all environmental influences.
These include:

  • Primers.
  • Impregnations.
  • Varnishes or paints.
  • Solutions.

All this must be done to ensure that the wood does not deteriorate during use, especially if the products are not located indoors.

Now - in more detail.
Control future surface damage.
To do this, we use disinfectant solutions, which are colorless (sometimes with a slight amber or greenish tint) fungicidal solution that prevents wood from rotting. Such preparations are made on the basis of water or white spirit.

Solutions of the first group are environmentally friendly and not expensive. But over time, they are simply washed out with water, so it is better not to use them for processing wooden elements, which are in direct contact with the soil and, moreover, with moisture.
According to modern technologies, for the protection of structures immersed in the ground or water, for example: sleepers, piles, the lower parts of wooden fences, etc. special means acrylic based.


If the wood is already affected by fungus, then the entire surface is thoroughly cleaned and treated with special preparations with a high content of active substances that can “kill” fungus or mold.
The folk method is bitumen (resin) dissolved in gasoline or regular waste technical oil. Tested over time.
There are also antiseptics that have an additional insecticidal effect. Such compositions, in addition to protecting against mold, fungi and blue stains, also destroy or prevent the appearance of bark beetles, longhorned beetles, grinding beetles and other insects and worms (shashel).

We provide protection for wooden surfaces
.

After treatment with fungicidal agents, the tree must be protected from further destruction. For this purpose, special varnishes and azures are used. Such products are effective against fungal infection, damage from ultraviolet rays (UV-A and UV-B) and precipitation.
Let's say you have garden furniture or fence, bench or wooden bridge are in the open air and therefore they must be treated with any product that is commercially available. It may not be expensive.
Well, if you haven’t done this before, and the surface has already turned black, then you need to:

But all these methods are intended more for prevention than for treating wood. If the wood is “sick”, then in principle there are no means to treat it - this is my subjective opinion.
If a wooden surface has not been treated with an antiseptic, then at a temperature of +25°C and an air humidity of 70%, mold will inevitably appear on it. Wood staining fungi (blue fungi) attack the outer young layers of the tree. The fungus develops from the inside - and until the color comes to the surface, the material appears healthy. Then wood-destroying fungi appear (the most dangerous disease– brown rot).

It follows from this that to prevent this from happening, it is imperative to treat the wooden surface of any product on time. Moreover, the construction industry now uses a lot of various means.
And one more thing - these materials not only protect, but also improve aesthetic qualities: after the impregnation dries, they create a matte surface, and varnishes create a glossy surface. Transparent or tinted. Some hide the base completely - they are used to disguise sun-grayed wood.
From a practical point of view, tinted materials are preferable: the main protection against UV rays is provided by the coloring pigments included in their composition. They are the ones who take the sun's influence. The service life of such coatings in our conditions is about 10 years.

There is also a modern product (“Ognebio”) for comprehensive protection of wood from fire and flame spread, which makes it a material that is difficult to ignite and at the same time preserves its texture and does not interfere with the breathing of wood. This product should be used to treat roof structures (rafters, beams, trusses, roof battens).

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