This material is devoted to waterproofing the ends of laminated chipboards. To a greater extent, it is relevant for protecting the countertop from water, but when assembling furniture for the bathroom or kitchen, it would also be useful to treat the ends of the parts that make up the box.
As can be seen from the structure of the laminated chipboard, the part most exposed to moisture is the saw cut unprotected by the laminate. When water gets on it, sawdust swells and the part becomes deformed. I will say right away that moisture-resistant laminated chipboard (green polymer sawdust is visible on the cut) is not a panacea - for an experiment, throw a piece of such chipboard into a bucket of water... So for it, waterproofing issues are just as relevant, although to a lesser extent.
So, let's look at various protective techniques - their advantages and disadvantages.
1. Edge banding(often kitchen countertops the edges are sealed with simple PVC or melamine). To be honest, this technique does not greatly protect the chipboard from swelling - water penetrates into the joint between the edge and the laminate and does its dirty work. Not suitable as a waterproofing agent(see photo 1).
2. -
due to the fact that the edging has overhangs that extend slightly onto the surface of the laminate, the joints, which were so defenseless in the previous version, become more closed, therefore provides better waterproofing. But isolated, that is, without the use of sealing compounds, its effectiveness is clearly insufficient.
3. Silicone sealant - can be used both in isolation and in
in combination with other techniques (processing the ends under edging or decorative end strips).
In addition, you can coat the ends of the laminated chipboard in the boxes with sealant in the places of the ties (those that are not covered with an edge); after tightening the joint, it is necessary to remove the squeezed out excess sealant with a rag - after the silicone dries, the box will be more airtight. Silicone should be used sanitary, that is, with protection against fungus. A “sausage” of sealant is squeezed out of the tube onto the end, and then smeared with a spatula or finger.
I would also like to note that the edge does not stick to silicone, and if it does, it doesn’t stick for long!
4. Treatment with Aquastop - An excellent alternative to sealant. Apply with a brush twice. After complete drying, it forms a layer on which you can even glue the edge (according to furniture makers - I haven’t tried it myself).
5. Paraffin treatment - this is old-fashioned, but nevertheless, extremely effective method waterproofing. The method looks like this: put the part on the end, stick it to the laminate on both sides masking tape(so that the end looks like it has sides), then take a candle and construction hairdryer melt the paraffin by pouring it into the resulting groove so that it spreads in an even layer over the surface of the end). And we continue to warm it up. In this case, paraffin will be absorbed into the chipboard like water. Processing is carried out at least twice. After this, we pour paraffin on the end, but do not fry it, so that it hardens, forming protective layer. Excess is removed with a knife. A cross-section of the laminate shows that paraffin penetrates into the material to a depth of at least 3-4 mm, which provides excellent, but again not 100% waterproofing.
The main disadvantages of this technique are the labor intensity and, again, the impossibility of gluing the edges.
Chipboard is one of the most affordable building materials, so many are interested in the question: how to impregnate this material from moisture? And, if in the summer there is a low probability of moisture getting on the floor, then in the winter it forms in any case. In this article we will give good advice about how and with what to impregnate chipboard from moisture?
Oil varnish or drying oil
IN Soviet times the best way was, and now - special impregnating substances. Naturally, this does not mean that you cannot continue to use drying oil as protective agent from moisture. It is allowed to use it, but to achieve high level protection is almost impossible. Yes and necessary a large number of mixture, and the working procedure will have to be done several times.
Polyurethane mixture
One of the most popular means for treating chipboard is a polyurethane mixture, which is similar in composition to a primer. Impregnation is based on organic solvents and polymers, which, during processing, penetrate deep into the pores of the material. At the same time, the level of strength building material increases significantly.
Nitrocellulose varnish
There is another way to protect chipboard from moisture - nitrocellulose varnish. Its protective effect is similar to polyurethane varnish: it forms a certain protective covering on the surface of the product, preventing the penetration of moisture, while resistance to damage is equivalent to the maximum value. A significant advantage of nitrocellulose varnish over its predecessor is the application of the substance without preliminary preparation workplace, but to achieve best results We strongly recommend priming the chipboard.
To significantly protect chipboard products, you need to use a combined protection method. It is best if it not only consists of an impregnation stage with deep penetration substances, but will also include the application of additional paint and varnish substances.
Low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, versatility of use have made them a very popular material. Most common applications: furniture manufacturing and construction. The main enemy of these slabs is water - the chips increase in volume, the slab swells, warps and crumbles.
Even at the very beginning of production, sawdust and shavings, after drying, are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing, the surface of the boards is laminated, sometimes even varnished.
But protecting the surface does not prevent the penetration of moisture from the ends through which it enters. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the slab. Consequently, the ends must first be saved from liquid penetration during operation. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the slabs will be much longer.
Why are the ends the starting point for destruction? Yes, because the production of slabs is necessary standard sizes, as well as preparing pieces of material of different sizes, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is compromised.
Thus, chipboard protection from moisture is carried out in three directions:
- impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
- special surface treatment;
- end sealing.
The first step towards moisture resistance
Already at the beginning chipboard production a process is carried out designed to protect them from water penetration - the so-called resinization of chips. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - saturation of the fibers with resins and their gluing. For most of the manufactured boards, formaldehyde resins are used, which by definition are a hydrophobic component of the product.
In cases where even greater moisture resistance is required from the boards, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea-melamine resin. It glues the chips together much more firmly, thereby being a stronger barrier to moisture. With the additional introduction of molten paraffin or its emulsion into the chip carpet, the moisture resistance of the chipboard further increases.
Surface treatment of plates
The front and back surfaces of the slab, as the largest areas of contact, can pass through and absorb, respectively, without any protection. greatest number liquids. It would be a good idea to cover these surfaces with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in factory conditions, some are also possible at home.
One of the main methods of protection is lamination. With it on sanded chipboard with high blood pressure and at high temperatures the melamine film is laid. The essence of this process is not pressing, but the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the slab, becoming one with it.
There is another method that is performed in the factory - laminating. Pressure and heat are also used here, but more gentle. The already hardened film is pressed against the glue-coated slab. If lamination is a chemical process, then laminating is a mechanical process.
Components of laminated chipboard
At home, non-laminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Before painting, pre-treat the surface:
- dust is carefully swept away and washed off the surface;
- for the first time, the plate is coated with hot drying oil;
- then this is done with cold drying oil until an outer crust forms;
- the top is painted. With any painting method, you must remember that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.
There are several other ways to protect yourself from getting wet. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical stress can be protected as follows: rub it with stearin, then heat it with a hairdryer. Let cool and repeat this a couple more times. Or: one part of bitumen varnish is mixed with five parts of drying oil. Coating is carried out twice.
Processing joints and edges
Water always looks for the lowest place, the depression. And what, if not a recess, are joints on horizontal planes? There are especially many such joints in cabinet furniture, which is made from chipboard. Kitchen furniture in general is like on the front line: there is plenty of water and enough evaporation. The most susceptible to moisture are the sink, cabinet with dryer, countertop, and furniture near and above the stove.
The taps all start to leak at some point. So the most promising thing is in the wash dangerous place where the faucet cuts into the countertop. This is the point of contact between metal and wood. It is possible not only for the faucet to leak, but also for water to condense at the contact point.
Therefore, this place is cleaned and dried with a hairdryer. Next, a layer of PVA glue is applied, after which it dries - silicone. You can use construction sealant, this is also a silicone mass, it even prevents leakage window frames sealed.
The edge not only protects the chipboard from moisture, but also reduces emissions of harmful substances In the dish cabinet, you should check the presence or absence of a tray: if it is not there, the liquid, flowing to the bottom of the cabinet, will ruin it. For everyone kitchen furniture Where there is a possibility of getting wet, you need to make it a rule: degrease the area and then do not skimp on the sealant.
It is better to use sanitary silicone to seal seams. suitable shade: Dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.
Non-laminated edges of the tabletop are covered with connecting or end strips. They come in metal or plastic. The protection is not so great, so the end of the tabletop should first be treated with silicone. Another method of protection is to apply furniture varnish or PVA glue to the cut area. Self-adhesive films or tape offered by the construction market reliable protection cannot be named.
Sealing chipboard joints on the floor
The difficulty lies in the fact that the slabs on the floor are constantly subjected to significant physical stress; they “play” relative to each other. For this reason, the putty does not want to stick. There are several folk ways sealing such seams.
The seams are covered with epoxy mixed with sawdust. The sawdust is first finely sifted. The composition sets very quickly, so immediately large volume There is no need to prepare such putty. Such protection serves for a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and sealing joints is expensive.
You can replace the epoxy with hot wood glue. You need to mix sawdust in it and go through the seams.
The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since the hot glue penetrates deep inside. This method also saves from moisture, and the joint stops “playing”. True, it is advisable not to walk on such a floor for several days, since wood glue takes a long time to dry.
This method is much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum on top, then about damage chipboards You can completely forget it.
For more than half a century, laying chipboard on the floor has been relevant for finishing flooring. Continuous improvement of technology and technological processes improves the structure and improves the quality of chipboard.
The stove has become durable, moisture-resistant, and environmentally friendly. And if we take into account that the panel is based on wood waste, then in terms of price-quality the panel is out of competition with others finishing materials. As a subfloor, a chipboard base will last for decades, extending the life of the floor covering.
Characteristics and use of chipboard
The board is made from waste from sawmilling, carpentry and furniture wood processing; shavings, sawdust, wood chips. The product uses wood - particle material conifers and hardwood, and a polymer thermosetting resin based on phenol-formaldehyde is used to bind wood particles.
The quality of the panel depends on the dosage of resin when applied to wood particles; a lack or excess of binder leads to defective products. During the manufacturing process, the boards are sanded, laminated, laminated and veneered.
These panels can be used to decorate not only floors, but also walls and ceilings. Based on their use, chipboard products are divided into general and special purpose(made to order).
Construction panels are used to decorate walls and ceilings indoors, and chipboard is laid on the floor as finishing coat or rough base.
According to the properties that determine the use of chipboard products, the panels belong to the grades P - A and P - B, distinguishable by physical and mechanical indicators.
Properties of chipboard
According to its physical and mechanical properties of chipboard, belonging to groups P - A and P - B, depending on the components used and additives to the binder resins, differ in density, strength and water resistance to swelling. 
Products of grade P - A are used for finishing in residential premises, where the release of phenol and formaldehyde from the slabs, which are harmful to human health, does not exceed the norm.
Panels with increased emission of harmful substances are used in facilities such as auxiliary materials or temporary structures.
Characteristics of chipboard
Based on their properties, chipboard is chosen for finishing various objects. When choosing, it is important to find out everything about the panel manufacturer and look at product certificates, which reflect laboratory tests of samples. The table shows indicators of physical and mechanical properties continuously produced products.
At choosing chipboard for use in a house or apartment, we check the product for the presence of phenol and formaldehyde in the resin composition to prevent the use of panels with harmful emissions.
Subfloor made of chipboard on joists
In damp rooms, particle boards quickly become unusable Usage particle board, as a base for flooring, is economically and technically justified. But when using panels, we take into account the operating conditions of the products. In a room where the humidity is above 60% and the temperature is below 10°C, the slabs swell and collapse.
This also applies to laying panels on the concrete floor of the first floors of multi-storey buildings. And the subfloor is made of chipboard on joists, correct solution for long-term operation of the slabs. A slab base raised above the concrete creates a flat surface on which the coating will last no less than the standard period.
Work order
Chipboard laying scheme Before laying the logs, we prepare the concrete floor and level the surface concrete screed. We lay the beams on concrete and connect them with jumpers into a rigid frame.
Insulation is laid between the joists and lintels, which together with the chipboard flooring creates thermal and sound insulation of the base. It’s easy to assemble a chipboard subfloor with your own hands, taking into account the step-by-step instructions:
A strong and rigid frame made of beams and lintels, presses tightly against the walls of the room and is not attached to concrete base anchors.
Using a frame of beams for the base of the floor covering allows you to separate the chipboard flooring from concrete floor and insulate the floor, keeping the room warm.
Chipboard floor on a wooden base
Leveling a chipboard floor is not difficult Any floor covering is laid on wooden floor, but floors laid on a reliable and level base can last the required period. This base is made from old restored floor slats or particle board.
Leveling a chipboard floor is not a difficult task and can be done on your own. Let's get started by repairing the old one wooden base. We check the joists and floor slats for rot, wormholes, mechanical damage and replace defective ones. We cover the logs with an antiseptic solution, we glue the floor boards together so that there are no gaps left.
We cut through the wooden covering with an electric planer and remove old paint and level the surface. After checking the horizontal surface laser level, prime the base.
Logs for the base frame and floor boards for flooring are used with a humidity of no higher than 12%. Before installation, the materials are treated with an antiseptic.
Laying chipboard on the floor, prepared old floor covering from floor slats, is carried out according to a diagram that reflects the estimated number of slabs. The layout of the panels on the floor of the room is made in a checkerboard pattern and provides for a compensation gap of 1.5 cm for the chipboard flooring from the walls of the room. 
Before assembling the floor covering, we lay a jute backing under the chipboard to level out the errors of the wooden base and maintain air exchange between the panel flooring and the wooden floor. Chipboard installation on the floor we start by treating the slabs with drying oil and drilling holes on the panels for mounting screws, covering the edges of the slabs silicone sealant.
The slabs are laid from the far corner We lay the slabs from the corner of the wall opposite the entrance to the room, compressing the rows of laid out panels with wedges. The slabs of the first row are attached to the wooden floor with a gap from the wall of 1.5 cm.
To ensure that the joints of the slabs do not coincide in the rows, we lay the 2nd row with a shift of half the slab. We cut one slab in half and apply sealant to the ends. We lay half the slabs at the beginning and end of the row. We compress the row with mounting wedges and screw the panels with self-tapping screws to the wooden base.
We lay the rest of the chipboard in a checkerboard pattern. If the scheme provides, then the last row We cut the slabs to fit tightly to the wall. After laying the flooring, we close the expansion gap with a plinth and screw it to the walls of the room. How to level the floor with slabs of this material, watch in this video:
If the chipboard coating was intended as a front covering, then we coat the slabs with two layers of wear-resistant varnish and after the varnish has dried, the coating is ready for use. And if it was intended to use the slab flooring as a subfloor, then we lay laminate or linoleum on it.
For long-term operation of the floor covering, the base made of concrete, a frame made of beams or floor boards is carried out without deviating from the step-by-step instructions.
The low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, and versatility of use have made them a very popular material. The most common areas of application are furniture production and construction. The main enemy of these slabs is water - the chips increase in volume, the slab swells, warps and crumbles.
Even at the very beginning of production, sawdust and shavings, after drying, are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing, the surface of the boards is laminated, sometimes even varnished.
But protecting the surface does not prevent the penetration of moisture from the ends through which it enters. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the slab. Consequently, the ends must first be saved from liquid penetration during operation.
If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the slabs will be much longer.
The photo shows the effects of water on a chipboard countertop.
Why are the ends the starting point for destruction? Yes, because the production of slabs of the required standard sizes, as well as the preparation of pieces of material of different sizes, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is compromised.
Thus, chipboard protection from moisture is carried out in three directions:
- impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
- special surface treatment;
- end sealing.
The first step towards moisture resistance
Already at the beginning of the production of chipboards, a process is carried out designed to protect them from water penetration - the so-called resinization of chips. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - saturation of the fibers with resins and their gluing. For most of the manufactured boards, formaldehyde resins are used, which by definition are a hydrophobic component of the product.
Green inclusions in chipboard are special water-repellent components
In cases where even greater moisture resistance is required from the boards, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea-melamine resin. It glues the chips together much more firmly, thereby being a stronger barrier to moisture. With the additional introduction of molten paraffin or its emulsion into the chip carpet, the moisture resistance of the chipboard further increases.
Surface treatment of plates
The front and back surfaces of the slab, as the largest contact areas, without any protection, can pass through and absorb, accordingly, the largest amount of liquid. It would be a good idea to cover these surfaces with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in factory conditions, some are also possible at home.
One of the main methods of protection is lamination. In this case, a melamine film is laid on sanded chipboard at high pressure and high temperature. The essence of this process is not pressing, but the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the slab, becoming one with it.
There is another method that is performed in the factory - laminating. Pressure and heat are also used here, but more gentle. The already hardened film is pressed against the glue-coated slab. If lamination is a chemical process, then laminating is a mechanical process.
Components of laminated chipboard
At home, non-laminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Before painting, pre-treat the surface:
- dust is carefully swept away and washed off the surface;
- for the first time, the plate is coated with hot drying oil;
- then this is done with cold drying oil until an outer crust forms;
- the top is painted. With any painting method, you must remember that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.
There are several other ways to protect yourself from getting wet. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical stress can be protected as follows: rub it with stearin, then heat it with a hairdryer. Let cool and repeat this a couple more times. Or: one part of bitumen varnish is mixed with five parts of drying oil. Coating is carried out twice.
Processing joints and edges
Water always looks for the lowest place, the depression.
And what, if not a recess, are joints on horizontal planes? There are especially many such joints in cabinet furniture, which is made from chipboard. Kitchen furniture in general is like on the front line: there is plenty of water and enough evaporation.
How to treat plywood, chipboard and wood to protect against moisture?
The most susceptible to moisture are the sink, cabinet with dryer, countertop, and furniture near and above the stove.
The taps all start to leak at some point. So, the most potentially dangerous place in the sink is where the faucet crashes into the countertop. This is the point of contact between metal and wood. It is possible not only for the faucet to leak, but also for water to condense at the contact point. Therefore, this place is cleaned and dried with a hairdryer. Next, a layer of PVA glue is applied, after which it dries - silicone. You can use construction sealant, this is also a silicone mass; it even seals window frames against leaks.
The edge not only protects the chipboard from moisture, but also reduces emissions of harmful substances
In the dish cabinet, you should check the presence or absence of a tray: if it is not there, the liquid, flowing to the bottom of the cabinet, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniture where it is possible to get wet, you need to make it a rule: degrease this area and then do not skimp on the sealant.
To seal the seams, it is better to use sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.
Non-laminated edges of the tabletop are covered with connecting or end strips. They come in metal or plastic. The protection is not so great, so the end of the tabletop should first be treated with silicone. Another method of protection is to apply furniture varnish or PVA glue to the cut area. Self-adhesive films or tape offered by the construction market cannot be called reliable protection.
Sealing chipboard joints on the floor
The difficulty lies in the fact that the slabs on the floor are constantly subjected to significant physical stress; they “play” relative to each other. For this reason, the putty does not want to stick. There are several popular ways to seal such seams.
The seams are covered with epoxy mixed with sawdust. The sawdust is first finely sifted. The composition sets very quickly, so it is not worth preparing a large volume of such putty at once. Such protection serves for a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and sealing joints is expensive.
You can replace the epoxy with hot wood glue. You need to mix sawdust in it and go through the seams.
The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since the hot glue penetrates deep inside. This method also saves from moisture, and the joint stops “playing”. True, it is advisable not to walk on such a floor for several days, since wood glue takes a long time to dry.
This method is much cheaper. And if the floor is covered with linoleum on top, then you can completely forget about damage to the chipboards.
You might be interested to know
How can you protect chipboard panels from moisture?
Until now, chipboard has been widely used in repairs. After all, these plates are universal. They are suitable for leveling walls, ceilings, laying dry screed, creating interior partitions and so on. But, if chipboard is planned to be installed in the kitchen or bathroom, certain measures should be taken to protect it from moisture. What methods are available in in this case? The main approaches will be discussed below.
1. Chipboard processing drying oil
Of the most simple methods should be called applying drying oil to a chipboard. Most often, this method is used when the particle board is planned to be laid on the floor when creating a rough screed. Drying oil is applied to the main part of the slabs in two layers. At the ends of the slabs Chipboard drying oil should be applied at least three times, since in these areas it will be absorbed especially intensively.
To increase the moisture resistance of chipboard panels, you can add a little bitumen varnish to the drying oil. 1 part varnish to 5 parts drying oil is enough.
2. Painting chipboards with PVA glue
It will be possible to increase the waterproof performance of the particle board if you coat it with PVA glue. This method is used in almost any situation. That is, a slab treated in this way can be used to level surfaces and install partitions. But you can start work only after the glue has completely dried.
It is advisable that the panels are also processed at least twice. Besides, adhesive composition can play the role of a primer, so in the future it will be easier to apply plaster, putty or paint.
Chipboard impregnation - odor protection
Pasting chipboard with protective film
Another successful way to protect chipboard from moisture is gluing with a special protective film. It not only protects the material from contact with moisture, but further improves it appearance. That is, the self-adhesive film also performs decorative function. The owner just has to choose a suitable sample and stick it correctly. To do this, the panel should be cleaned of dirt and dust, the protective layer should be removed from the film and it should be glued. Special ones are installed at the ends decorative corners with water-resistant qualities.
Each method has its own advantages. And the owner who manages to do the job correctly will receive chipboard panels that are reliably protected from moisture. Then ready material can be used when working even in those premises that do not have the most favorable operating conditions.
You can treat the tabletop, or rather, drink it under the hob, wash it using metal tape. The effect is simply classy, the tabletop will probably age faster.
How to protect the legs of laminated chipboard cabinets from moisture?
BUT as always there is a BUT. The material is easily vulnerable, and quite (carefully and carefully) labor-intensive, maybe that’s why we don’t particularly like it among assemblers, or maybe someone doesn’t know. As they say, the eyes fear, but the hands do.
P.S. The base of the tape is aluminum foil.
—————————————————————————————
Drying oils are film-forming paints and varnishes based on processed vegetable oils. Part natural drying oils includes exclusively drying vegetable oils(linseed, hemp, sometimes sunflower oil is added) and driers. Drying agents are manganese, cobalt, and lead salts of carboxylic acids that accelerate the drying process. Add to the composition of semi-natural drying oils organic solvents– white spirit, ski*****, Solovent oil. Oxidized drying oils are obtained by heating linseed or hemp oil to 150-160 degrees, stirring and passing drying agents through them. Such drying oils have greater viscosity, increased durability, shine, more dark color than natural ones. Compacted drying oils, unlike natural ones, are obtained over a longer period of time. heat treatment at a temperature of about 300 degrees.
Fungus appears on silicone coatings over time.
Dear visitor! You are in the archive of the old forum on mastergrad.com
How to protect chipboard from water?
| Paul July 21, 2004 16:35:58 |
Good afternoon a problem arose - the chipboard frame of the kitchen swelled from leaking. The edges were laminated, but this did not help - I think the technology was broken, or the chipboard was bad. The kitchen manufacturer changed the frame, but to avoid the problem I want to pre-treat the edges. Question - with what? Yesterday I tried to cover it up liquid nails cut the chipboard and place the treated end in a bowl of water - it swells overnight...:(((Advise which product is best to use for sealing the edges? Good luck Paul |
| Shadow (Moscow) July 21, 2004 18:06:44 |
2 Paul: Rub the exposed areas with silicone sealant. |
| Shadow (Moscow) July 21, 2004 18:10:32 |
2 Paul: Sorry - under open areas understand the unlaminated areas of the frame. In addition, nothing prevents you from coating the laminated edges with that sealant - silicone film It certainly won't let water through. |
| Paul July 21, 2004 20:10:49 |
2Shandow: I rubbed silicone sealant on the chipboard countertops (cutout under the sink) and it didn’t hold up well:((. I think it will be even worse on a laminated surface... Here you need something penetrating - I’ll try parquet varnish. I’ll let you know about the results. Good luck Paul |
| Serg (Samara, Russia) July 22, 2004 01:31:38 |
2Paul: Soak with drying oil several times. Best regards, Sergei |
| Paul July 22, 2004 08:31:15 |
The varnish did not help - the sample left in water swelled overnight:(( 2 Serg: Today I’ll try drying oil... Good luck Paul |
| Shrek (Tomsk) July 22, 2004 10:15:46 |
IMHO, if you leave chipboard in water overnight, at least saturate it with something - it will swell. |
| Serg (Samara, Russia) July 23, 2004 00:18:13 |
2Paul: You can apply it heated in a water bath - it will be better absorbed. Best regards, Sergei |
| TriX (SPb) July 23, 2004 11:33:23 |
Yeah. And under pressure. Then it's totally cool. But it still won't help much. Chipboard does not soak well. The binder prevents the impregnation from going deeper. And the water is so much that it gets into all the cracks, pores, etc. and delaminates the materials. You can look for hydrophobic mixtures such as liquid silicone. It won't swell under it. But this is not suitable for furniture. |
| Shrek (Tomsk) July 23, 2004 12:45:21 |
What else did you think :)… How can you coat chipboard to make it waterproof?If such a tool existed, then manufacturers of chipboard kitchens would already be using it :). IMHO, useless good remedy search. Only impregnate with drying oil and do not fill with water :). |
| Serg (Samara, Russia) July 24, 2004 00:50:45 |
2TriX: Applying drying oil heated in a water bath is a standard technique. > Chipboard is poorly saturated. From the cut side, the slab is impregnated quite well. There is this tool - mark everything at once technological holes and after that stick the melamine on the back wall too. The front, rolled up end raises no questions for anyone - so you need to do the same with the rear. Best regards, Sergei Best regards, Sergei |