Amaryllis (Amaryllis). Dormancy and flowering period, rules of care, reproduction

Once every 2-3 years During active growth 18-22, during the rest period - about 15 During flowering - when it dries out upper layer soil, do not water during the dormant period Only buds if the air is too dry Bright diffused light, southwest and southeast windows Poisonous juice, observing periods of growth and dormancy

Lighting

During growth, the plant prefers bright, diffused light; in summer, direct rays of the sun are allowed only from 11:00 to 15:00.

Amaryllis requires 16 hours of daylight for normal development.. During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs do not need light.

The best place for the plant will be windows facing southwest and southeast. On a south window, the amaryllis will have to be shaded from the midday sun.

During the growth of the peduncle and leaves, the plant must be constantly rotated so that the peduncle does not bend.

Temperature

Temperature conditions during active growth:

Daytime 20–22° C;
At night at least 18° C.

During the dormant period, amaryllis bulbs should be kept in a cool place.. The optimal temperature will be about 15° C, the minimum 10° C, and the maximum 18° C. At low temperatures, the bulb may die, and at high temperatures, it may germinate too quickly, not allowing the plant to fully rest.

In summer, it is not advisable to take the flower out of the room, since differences in day and night temperatures middle lane can be significant. This plant does not like sudden decreases or increases in temperature, which can lead to a lack of flowering.

This flower requires a period of rest. But it is not always possible to keep a flower in a cold room. In order for amaryllis to successfully overwinter and produce a peduncle in the spring, it can also be kept at room temperature 20-22ºС, but relatively dry. In this case, the flower will not grow in winter.

Watering

During flowering, amaryllis needs abundant watering - the soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. Watering frequency – the top layer of soil should dry out slightly between waterings. Water the plant with settled water at room temperature.. It is important that water does not get on the bulbs.

When flowering ends, watering is reduced, and after 2 months it is completely stopped.

During this time, the amaryllis loses its leaves, and a dormant period begins, during which the plant does not need to be watered.

After the end of the dormant period, when the peduncle reaches a height of 10 cm (but not earlier!), switch to the normal watering regime, taking into account the temperature and dryness of the air in the room.

If the air in the room is too dry, you can spray the buds a little. It is strictly forbidden to spray flowers, leaves, and bulbs during the dormant period.

The soil

For amaryllis soil will do, consisting of turf soil (2 parts), peat (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part). The soil acidity indicator should be pH 6.0–6.5.

You can also use a different soil composition for planting this plant. Here are its ingredients:

Sand can be replaced with leavening agents such as perlite or vermiculite. The specified soil composition will ensure the outflow of excess water into the pan during watering.

Also, to prevent water from stagnating in the soil, a drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pot. Good drainage is essential to prevent root and bulb rot.

Light and loose soil, slightly acidic or neutral acidity, is suitable for amaryllis. Such soil mixtures for decorative flowering bulbous plants are always on sale. They are easiest to purchase at flower shops or garden centers.

Fertilizer

During active growth and flowering, fertilizing is carried out once every 10 days. For this purpose, a complex liquid fertilizer, suitable for flowering plants.

At the end of flowering, fertilizing is reduced, and after the leaves wither, stop completely.. Fertilizer application is resumed only with the appearance of flower stalks from the bulb.

They begin to fertilize the soil for amaryllis when flower stalks appear from the bulb in the spring. Use liquid complex fertilizers for flowering plants or special compounds for bulbous plants.

It is important not to overfeed the plants after the leaves form and flowering ends. This species grows leaves after the formation of a peduncle. The plant is fed only with fertilizers for flowering plants, never using compositions for deciduous varieties. This allows you to maximize flowering and reduce the rate of leaf growth.

Humidity

Amaryllis is undemanding to air humidity, so there is no need to spray it.

The main thing is that the humidity is not too high - 80% or higher, otherwise it can lead to fungal diseases.

For hygiene and prevention of pest infestation, it is recommended to regularly wipe the leaves or wash them in the shower.

Peculiarities

For normal development and abundant flowering of amaryllis, special care rules must be followed during the period of growth and dormancy. Amaryllis is also a poisonous plant and should only be handled with gloves.

Do not forget that amaryllis is a poisonous indoor plant. Do not allow juice to come into contact with skin or food. But don’t rush to get rid of the plant - when growing it, you just need to follow precautions.

Periods of growth and rest

Let's look at how to care for amaryllis at home in different phases. At home, amaryllis is grown as a regular houseplant until late autumn. At this time, it is regularly watered and fed.

After amaryllis blooms, you need to remove the flower stalks. There is no need to touch the leaves - they will be a source of nutrients for the bulb.

In order for amaryllis to bloom in winter, the bulbs need to be provided with a period of rest.. To do this, from August you need to reduce watering and stop fertilizing. After three weeks, watering should also be stopped. The leaves should turn yellow and wither on their own, after which they need to be cut to a height of 5 cm from the bulb.

In September and early October, the bulbs are planted in a pot and stored in a dark, dry and cool (13–15° C) place. The dormant period will begin when there are no green leaves left on the plant and will last 6-8 weeks.

Around November, the pot with the plant is placed in a lighted place and begins to be watered regularly. From this point on, the period of growth begins again.

Before and after flowering, keep the soil moist and rotate the plant constantly to promote even growth. During this period, the optimal temperature will be 13–18° C. 4–8 weeks after watering is resumed, the amaryllis should bloom.

Amaryllis blooming

The flowering period of amaryllis occurs in late autumn or early winter. A flowering plant throws out a powerful peduncle, at the end of which there is an inflorescence. Usually during flowering the plant has no leaves. Sometimes 1 pair of leaves grows along with the peduncle.

With optimal care, amaryllis blooms once a year. However, you can get flowers twice a year without damaging the plant. Adult specimens with a bulb diameter of at least 5 cm are suitable for this. They will bloom in the summer, subject to regular feeding in the spring.

To induce natural flowering of amaryllis in summer time, you need to create an additional period of rest for him. To do this, you need to move it from a lighted place to a shaded place, away from the window.

Watering is reduced by 2-3 weeks. After a 2-week stay in the shade, its leaves gradually die off, and a peduncle grows from the top of the bulb.

After the formation of a peduncle, the plant begins to be watered as usual. Now it can be transferred to the windowsill, where it will soon bloom.

Diseases

Amaryllis can be affected by fungal infections, such as gray mold. Signs of infection: brown spots or stripes on flowers, stems or bulbs, or a grayish velvety coating on the leaves.

As a rule, the disease is caused by too humid air and waterlogging of the soil.

The causative agents of this disease live in the soil, so the diseased plant must be replanted. In addition, they are treated with special preparations - fungicides.

The plant may become infected with thrips or aphids. Signs: leaves turn yellow and become deformed.

Small reddish spots may appear when infested with mites. Treatment with insecticides, which must be carried out several times, will help in the fight against it.

Problems

Reproduction

Amaryllis can be propagated by pups separated from the mother bulb and by seeds. Before transplanting amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.

Branch of daughter bulbs

This is the simplest and most common method. Overgrown children are separated from the mother plant during spring transplantation.

First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.

In this case, the composition of the soil, the height of planting the bulb, and the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow quickly and bloom within 2–3 years.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, labor-intensive and unreliable method. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another with a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.

Shoots should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one at a time in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seeds bloom only in the 7th year.

Transfer

Amaryllis belongs to perennial plants, so there is no need to replant it annually. It will be enough just to replace the top layer of soil. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. In addition, the bulb cannot be buried above the previous soil level.

Amaryllis are usually replanted every 2–4 years., or when you need to separate the babies from the mother bulb for reproduction.

The best time to transplant amaryllis at home is 3-5 weeks after flowering has ended.

This is explained by the fact that the bulb greatly decreases in size during flowering due to the consumption of nutrients contained in it.

When transplanting, select a pot with a diameter equal to the bulb plus 1.5–2.0 cm on all sides– in cramped containers, amaryllis begin to bloom faster and more abundantly.

Dried and withered outer scales are removed from faded amaryllis, and bad roots are removed from the bulb and the children with roots are separated.

If the bulb has no roots at all, it can still be replanted– the roots will grow in 4–6 weeks. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom - expanded clay, broken shards, gravel, and it is advisable to pour a little sand under the bulb. The soil is taken of the same composition (see above). The bulb is buried in the ground half or 2/3 of its height.

Description of the plant and species

Amaryllis is a bulbous flowering plant native to South Africa. It has a large pear-shaped bulb, the diameter of which can reach 10 cm.

The leaves of the plant are narrow and long, reaching 30 cm in length. Amaryllis blooms in late autumn or early winter. The flowers are large, there are up to 12 of them on one peduncle. The peduncle of the plant is long, up to 40 cm, juicy and fleshy.

Until recently, the Amaryllis belladonna species was considered the only one of its kind. Today, another species of this genus has been found - Amaryllis Paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna– a very popular plant in indoor floriculture. Thanks to its compact size and amazingly beautiful flowers, this species is common in the collections of flowering plant lovers almost everywhere. Wild flowers have pink, red and even purple tints.

This species gave rise to many varieties, distinguished by unusual coloring, flower size and petal shape. There are large-flowered, variegated and narrow-petaled varieties. Here are some popular amaryllis varieties:

“Exotica” is a large-flowered variety;
"Minerva" - a variety with variegated striped petals;
"Exotic Star" is a narrow-petalled variety.

Amaryllis Paradisicola differs from the previous species in the large number of flowers in the inflorescence. There can be up to 21 of them. All flowers of the species have a uniform pink tint and pleasant aroma. Not common in indoor floriculture.

Now you know everything about caring for amaryllis at home.

Modern gardeners are not afraid of difficulties, because lovers of garden bulbous flowers undertake to grow not only traditional tulips, lilies or daffodils. They are not afraid to grow such truly exotic flowers as amaryllis or hippeastrum, which attract with the luxurious, incredibly bright colors of large, amazingly shaped flowers. However, we need to immediately clarify: almost all the beautiful flowers that we grow or buy under the name amaryllis are actually hippeastrums or hybrids of hippeastrum and amaryllis.

These flowers, unlike most bulbous ones, bloom in August-September, but gardeners are attracted by the possibility of forcing and flowering these flowers at other times of the year.

Listen to the article

Amaryllis belladonna

The only representative of the Amaryllidaceae genus is amaryllis belladonna, unusual flower native to South Africa, from the Cape of Good Hope, so growing it in open ground is possible only in areas with a mild climate. If amaryllis develops according to its natural pattern, then it should bloom in the fall, and for this you need to plant the bulbs in the ground in June. How to plant amaryllis.

For amaryllis planted in open ground, Very important conditions are light, constant warmth and the required level of humidity, so a site on the south side of the buildings is suitable for them.

The amaryllis bulb has a pear-shaped or spindle-shaped shape and is quite large in size. The most large bulbs Even two flower arrows can give. Each of them blooms from 6 to 12 flowers. Amaryllis are usually red, pink or white.

The average diameter of an amaryllis bulb is about 6 cm. However, there are selection specimens whose size reaches 20 cm.

The amaryllis bulb is covered with dry gray scales. From 1 to 4 babies are formed annually in the axils of the outer scales. They are the ones planting material for propagation of amaryllis: during transplantation of an adult plant, the children are separated along with the roots, then they are planted in a pot for growing. Such a baby bulb, as a rule, blooms in the 3-4th year of growth.

Hippeastrum (amaryllis) bulbs

If amaryllis is represented by only one species, then its relative hippeastrum, on the contrary, is represented very widely. All hybrid forms of both amaryllis and hippeastrum are usually classified as hippeastrum.

Hippeastrum comes from the subtropics and tropics of America, therefore, unlike amaryllis, it is more suitable for growing in open ground.

This flower has a wide variety of colors, and the flowers themselves are much larger and brighter than amaryllis flowers. There are varieties of the original two-color color.

Hippeastrum bulbs differ from amaryllis bulbs: they are rounder and slightly flattened. But it will be difficult for a non-professional to distinguish between them, so if it is important for you to buy either amaryllis or hippeastrum, contact specialized stores where salespeople will help you, or special Internet sites.

Pay attention to the manufacturer's packaging: it should indicate what kind of flower will grow from the bulb.

Don’t worry if you got a bulb that is not too large, because some varieties of hippeastrum have small bulbs, so bulbs from 5cm to 11cm in diameter are considered normal.

Storing amaryllis (hippeastrum) bulbs

Both amaryllis and hipeastrum bulbs last quite a long time if you place them in a cool, dry, dark place.

After flowering, pots with plants are kept in a warm, bright room.

At this time, the bulb accumulates nutrients, therefore, it would not be superfluous to feed the plant after the end of flowering of the amaryllis and water it until the foliage dries out, through which the bulb received the substances necessary for laying a full-fledged flower bud.

For a period of rest The bulb can be left in the pot without replanting for 3-4 years in a row, but in order for the plant to rest fully, it must be moved to a cool room.

If the hippeastrum bulb was removed from the soil for a dormant period, then before planting at the beginning of the new growing season it must be cleared of old scales and rotten roots. Places of damage on the bulb itself, if any are found, must be cleaned, leaving only healthy tissue, and all sections must be treated with crushed activated carbon.

Bulbs of amaryllis and hippeastrum are planted in June, then in August-September there is hope to see the lush flowering of amaryllis, or hippeastrum, respectively. If the bulb was resting in a pot, then at the end of spring, move the plant from the coolness and darkness to a warm, bright place for forcing.

In the rather cold Russian climate, winter-blooming amaryllis is one of the favorite indoor plants. Its modern varieties come in a wide variety of shades - from pure white to dark crimson, purple and even green, there are varieties with double and pronounced striped flowers.

These bulbous plants are among the best for home-made, which even the most unprepared amateurs can do. In most regions of Russia, amaryllis, whose homeland is South America, capable of wintering only in room conditions and has a pronounced dormant period from about the end of October to the beginning of February. IN proper organization rest for amaryllis is the main secret of successful forcing.

How to prepare amaryllis for dormancy. At the end of August - September, it is necessary to abandon fertilizing and slowly begin to reduce watering until it stops completely at the end of October - November. The amaryllis will gradually begin to shed its leaves, and by the end of autumn they should all naturally die back. There is no need to specifically trim yellowing leaves, since when they die, all the organic substances from them pass into the bulb, making the necessary reserve for subsequent flowering. Sometimes one or two unwilted leaves remain for quite a long time. They are carefully bent or cut off at the base of the bulb to save storage space - for example, on racks in a cool pantry, heated greenhouse or winter garden, in a warm garage, where the temperature in winter does not drop below zero.

How to store amaryllis during the dormant period. In a dormant state, the bulbs usually keep most of the skeletal and largest roots alive, so they need to be lightly watered occasionally (every 15-20 days). Pots with resting bulbs are kept in a cool, dry place at a temperature of about +5...+12°C; they do not need light. Leave the resting bulbs in pots or loose in boxes for at least eight to nine weeks. Remember: hippeastrum and amaryllis bulbs are not frost-resistant and are very afraid of even a short-term drop in temperature to negative values!

When does amaryllis usually bloom? At home, the normal flowering period for amaryllis is mid-February - the first half of March. But it often happens that amaryllis continue to bloom in April and even in May, especially large bulbs that give a second wave of flowering. You are quite capable of regulating this process and making amaryllis bloom, for example, on Valentine's Day or on March 8th. 7 to 10 weeks before the desired flowering date, bring the pots with rested bulbs into a warmer, brighter room and lightly water them. In the future, the frequency of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, temperature and dryness of the surrounding air and condition earthen coma. By following these simple recommendations, you will be rewarded with abundant flowering of your pets every year.

How and when to replant amaryllis. It is advisable to replant amaryllis and change the soil in pots every 1-2 years and better in spring, approximately 3-5 weeks after flowering. When planting and replanting, the root system is not cut off, but only diseased and dried roots are removed, sprinkling the cuts with crushed charcoal. When transplanting, carefully separate the children that often appear on the bulbs and plant them in separate pots, designating the variety. At proper care babies begin to bloom around the third or fourth year. When replanting, the diameter of the pot is increased slightly, since amaryllis bloom more readily and much faster in a “tight” container. You can read more about the proper maintenance and transplantation of amaryllis bulbs in my article.

Recommendations for those who are a little late in preparing amaryllis for dormancy. Most likely, most of the plants themselves “realized” that it was time to rest when the daylight began to wane significantly at the end of September - October, and it became noticeably colder in the rooms and on the window sills, especially at night. Such conditions are unsuitable for a vigorous growing season, so plants naturally shed some of their foliage in preparation for winter dormancy. If you also intuitively guessed that in cool conditions all plants need to be watered much less frequently and less abundantly, then you won’t have to do anything else. And the inclusion central heating It will probably dry out a couple more yellowing leaves completely. Then everything is simple: we stop watering the plants and after a few days we put them to rest in some cool and fairly dark room. As a last resort, a shaded corner of the coolest room is suitable, where your plants will sit for another two to three months, until February or March, until you decide that it is time for them to prepare for flowering. During storage, the leaves continue to die and your task is to occasionally remove them, as well as the black, dried outer scales of the bulbs, in order to maintain a neat appearance of the plants and prevent the bulbs from rotting when watering them is resumed.

One fundamental note– we are talking all this about plants that have reached 3-4 years old, have already entered or are ready for regular flowering. Younger plants grown from children should not be dried out and forcibly forced to shed their leaves, although in winter they will also have their own dormant period, during which new leaves stop growing and part of last year’s growth dies off. During this cool and relatively dark period, young plants simply need to be watered more rarely and moderately so as not to flood their root system.

Well, if the plant continues to grow rapidly, Has it thrown out one or two buds and is about to bloom? It’s okay, this option is also quite acceptable, although less desirable. The plant simply confused spring with autumn, especially if you continued to water and feed it intensively. Allow the amaryllis to bloom naturally, but just in case, slightly reduce the frequency and intensity of watering. And watch your plant. It is possible that you have already flooded the onion and this is its “swan song”.

If your plant develops well, its flower stalks reach normal height, the size of the buds and flowers does not cause concern, and flowering lasts long enough - 10-12 days, then you should not worry too much. It’s just that the dormant period for this plant will come a little later than usual. But next spring alas, it most likely will no longer bloom.

It is much worse if several leaves suddenly completely stopped developing and during the summer never reached their natural length. This may signal some kind of plant disease, or trouble with the bulb itself. Secondary signs poor condition The bulb may be soft, lethargic, lack of elasticity, or the presence of black or brown spots on the surface. It’s really bad if you notice the presence of rot on the surface or at the base, excess water in the pan after you have been away for a long time, or any insects fluttering around the plant. Sometimes the bulb tilts on its side or simply dangles on one or two remaining roots, although this is normal for amaryllis root system well developed and completely encircles the earthen ball.

In this case, it is urgent to carefully remove the bulb along with the earthen lump and inspect it. Depending on the condition of the root system and the bulb itself, decide on the need for an urgent transplant, some kind of resuscitation action, or just dry it slightly if the root system is a little waterlogged. In general, amaryllis, like all bulbous plants, are able to do without soil for quite a long time and, in case of emergency, can easily lie down for a week or two in a cool place. dark place until you have the opportunity to take a closer look at them and plant them according to all the rules of agricultural technology, which I already described in my article Beautiful home flower Amaryllis.

If obvious traces of rot or other damage are found on the bulb, the first step is to assess the extent and depth of the damage. It often happens that the lesions are still on the surface of the bulb and it is enough to carefully remove them clean stationery knife or with a scalpel to a depth of 2-3 scales, or remove the affected scales along the entire diameter. Then the bulb must be treated with an effective fungicide, for example, the drug "Maxim", or at least a dark burgundy solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green, and then dried for 1-2 weeks in the shade or on a cool pantry shelf, checking periodically. Usually this allows you to save amaryllis from further development of diseases and rot. When the problem is localized and defeated, the bulb is planted in fresh soil so that the affected area is slightly above soil level.

If the problem still remains, then resuscitation actions are continued until the source of the spread of the disease can be stopped. If the rot has affected the bottom of the bulb or affected several roots, part of the bottom along with the affected roots is carefully cut out and the wound is treated with a fungicide. And don't rush to board! Dry the onion well to prevent the disease from returning.

An even more difficult situation is created if the bulb has lost almost all its roots. As long as it doesn't rot from the inside, it can be saved! Treat the entire bulb with fungicide after removing all lesions. Next, thoroughly clean all affected areas and cavities and treat again disinfectant solution. Dry the bulb and store it in the pantry until February - March, until the life processes that accompany the exit from dormancy begin to awaken in it. It's even better if you plant it in a pot later - at the end of March or April. Then for sure. I recommend first planting the amaryllis in a clear, disposable 0.5 liter plastic cup in slightly damp vermiculite with a pinch of some root stimulant added. In such a container it is convenient to observe the development of roots. Vermiculite needs to be moistened extremely rarely, because a plastic glass practically does not evaporate moisture, and almost the entire hole on top is covered with an onion.

Before planting, it is also advisable to treat the bulb itself with a root formation stimulator or keep it in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, which has both a bactericidal and stimulating role. The newly planted plant should be placed in a bright and moderately warm place without direct sun rays. I have had cases where some bulbs did not want to grow roots for 6-8 months! True, this rarely happens. Therefore, do not despair, but wait patiently and you will be rewarded! If the bulb turns green and elastic in the light, it means that it will definitely survive and, sooner or later, will give new roots, which means that it will bloom again someday!

* The commercial name Amaryllis refers to representatives of two species - Amaryllis beladonna and Hippeastrum garden. (Ed.)

When and whether to cut off the leaves and roots of the onion? What are the storage conditions and when will it be ready to bloom again? Who knows?

After flowering, remove only the flower stalks. Be sure to leave the leaves and feed them a couple of times, because the bulb has expended a lot of energy on flowering. Then begin reducing watering to allow the leaves to die off. But not everyone has a period of rest. My amaryllis, bought last winter, flourished magnificently last year, producing three arrows, I tried to put it to sleep all summer, I didn’t want to. He gave birth to three children and now stands again with two arrows with flowers.

Pay attention to the bulb, if it becomes exhausted after flowering and becomes loose, try to make it rest. Also, do not plant the onion in big pot, in this case it will definitely not bloom. Good luck.

There is no need to cut off the roots. And the leaves should ideally dry out on their own. While they are green, they supply nutrients to the bulb. Stop watering and place in a cool place. No need to dig out of the pot

Dormant period: The stem is cut only when it is completely dry. Gradually reduce watering, then stop watering altogether. The pot with the bulb is placed in a cool, dark place indoors. The rest period should last 6-8 weeks from February. Then the bulb can be removed from the pot, the “babies” are separated and the mother plant is replanted.

after it has bloomed, you must first of all grow a good root, like at least 4 pairs of leaves, before sending it to rest, otherwise you will not see a trace of flowering, healthy roots are not cut off, but on the contrary, they are protected when replanting

It's unlikely you have amaryllis. Most likely, this is a hybrid hippeastrum. After flowering it has a period of growth. You need to transplant the plant into a larger pot, regularly water and feed it. In the summer it is better to plant it in open ground. The rest period begins in September-October.

If you force the bulb to retire, you can forget about flowering for several years.

water thinner leaves will begin to die off by spring, increase watering and feed

there is no need to cut off the leaves... now the bulb needs feeding - the energy has been spent on flowering... let the leaves grow, and put them to sleep in the fall...

Amaryllis care

She gave a good flowering and now everything has faded. I cut the arrow. I even do not know why. but the leaves are waving upward. What should my next steps be?

wilted flowers, if seeds are not needed, are removed individually with scissors, the arrow itself is removed after it begins to fade thoroughly, the bulbs are well watered without stagnation of moisture and I feed them once a week with Kemira-lux - a powerful rosette grows as soon as the growth of the leaves ends - I gradually reduce watering to nothing; when the leaves fade, I send them into the dark with a temperature of 16-18, let them rest for a couple of months, then take them out of the old pot and shake them off old land and planting again, mine bloom 2 times a year - hippeastrums... one of my friends will push them out for special occasions - luxurious bouquets with their own hands

This year they gave us a plant in a pot, it seems to be called amaryllis (looked at the picture, it looks similar), it bloomed in the spring.

Amaryllis care at home, why it doesn’t bloom

They say that you need to cut off all the leaves of the plant and put it “to rest - without watering, in a cool place. Tell me, please, who knows what time this should be done? It's probably high time already? And where can it be placed in a city apartment?

In no case - they are needed for the growth of the bulb! I send mine to the basement along with the leaves in the fall. I plant it in winter, it will bloom in 40 days. Plant the bulb 1/2 deep in the ground, the pot is not large.

it is time. I stop watering and clean under the bathroom for about two months.

This is hippeastrum. The leaves cannot be trimmed - they must dry out on their own after stopping watering.

Only, if the bulb is Dutch, it is unlikely that it will soon be able to bloom again. Has it fully recovered from the previous flowering? What is its diameter, how many leaves?

I don’t prune, it usually blooms by the new year and I don’t remove it anywhere.

I harvest them in November, take them out in mid-January, they bloom by March 8th, sometimes they are capricious, like this year. I have a lot of them, some bloomed in March, others in June, and others even in September. I put it in the lower part of the closet in the room, always in the dark. It would also be nice to have a cool place, but this is difficult. I don’t cut off the leaves until spring.

I remove only those leaves that have turned yellow, leaving the green ones. It happens that even after dormancy, some of the leaves remain.

I store mine on a glassed-in loggia, where it’s +15 in the winter. I haven't watered it for a month and a half. Mine go to sleep at the end of December and bloom on March 8th. Then I replant it in fresh, nutritious soil, deepening the bulb halfway. In spring and summer, fertilize so that the bulb recovers and grows leaves. Usually by autumn there are 8-9 leaves.

You remove where you have the coolest place, under balcony door or even on the windowsill itself and do not water for one and a half to two months.

No, there is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the bulbs (
What’s interesting is that a friend’s is already blooming (mine dug up from the dacha). and mine is still sleeping

Description and basic information

In the photo is Amaryllis belladonna, only botanists reserve full right to be called amaryllis. In everyday life this is beautiful name was also assigned to hippeastrums, so all further information applies to this genus of plants.

The amaryllis bulb shoots one or two arrows during its growth period. The plant loves dry, hot climates and cannot withstand excessive humidity. Periods of growth and flowering alternate with periods of dormancy, when the plant needs low temperatures and a minimum amount of light.

Interesting! In Moscow there is an Amaryllis clinic - the name is associated with positivity and a healthy glow.

Buying a healthy bulb is a good start

The amaryllis bulb should be dry, strong, evenly dense - in the middle, on the neck and bottom. The shape is pear-shaped. Rot, redness, darkening and compaction are signs of a second-rate product. The quality can also be assessed in the pot. Roots visible through drainage holes, should be white, the protruding part should be dense, without redness.

There should be no children, otherwise they will retard the growth of the peduncle. You need to buy a plant without daughter bulbs, and if there are any, it is better to carefully separate them before planting.

Important! The amaryllis bulb is poisonous, so keep it away from children before planting it in a pot.

How to plant amaryllis correctly

After purchasing, it is important to choose a place for the future plant. Dark corners don't suit him. A comfortable place for amaryllis will be the following:

warm, with a temperature of 18-250C;
bright, sunny;
with the ability to diffuse direct rays;
dry (the lower the air humidity, the better).

The bulb should be treated before planting. To do this, remove the dried scales from the tuber and leave it soaked in a 1:5 solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour.

If redness or rot is found under the separated layers, additionally treat with Fitosporin.

After this, it is enough to keep the prepared bulbs in a warm and bright place for 24 hours.

The soil mixture for the plant should be saturated with humus and special fertilizers for flowers. Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot. Make a depression in the soil, plant the bulb with the blunt end down, so that the top protrudes 1/3 above the surface. Compact the soil around.

Advice! The amaryllis pot should be heavy and small in diameter, but deep. Easy plastic pot will not support the weight of an adult plant, and many children are formed in the bulk.

The planting field is watered with water at room temperature and placed in the sun.

The first days of life of a young amaryllis

After some time, the onion will release the first arrow. The sun's rays need to be diffused with tulle. The plant needs to create a warm, dry environment. Either cancel or limit watering.

Advice! When watering, follow the rule: “It’s better not to top up than to overfill.” The bulbs and roots tolerate a lack of moisture well, but its excess causes the process of rotting.

Proper care for amaryllis

After 7-10 weeks, powerful, dense flower stalks will appear. Flowers will bloom on each of them.

How to care for amaryllis at home:

keep water for irrigation at room temperature for 24 hours;
emerging flower stalks with blossoming buds can be cut off and placed in water. Life cycle cut flowers do not decrease, but the bulb gains strength for a new stem;
When the buds bloom, you can start fertilizing. The optimal interval is once every one and a half weeks. It is better to use complex fertilizer for bulbous plants;
Watering should be carried out as the top layer of soil dries;
It is better not to pour water on the bulb;
amaryllis reaches for the sun. To keep the plant straight, the pot must be gradually rotated;
V winter period You can water less often - the moisture evaporates more slowly;
spray the leaves and stem very rarely, only in the evening;

Advice! To ensure that the plant looks lush and healthy, and the bulb does not become depleted, it is better to cut off the third shoot if it starts to break through.

Amaryllis is dormant - it needs attention

As flowering ends, watering and fertilizing are reduced.

Soon after flowering, the leaves gradually fall off. There is no need to cut them, otherwise the bulb will not receive nutrients. After the flowers wither, the stem should be shortened to 3-4 cm.

For hibernation, the bulbs are not dug up; the pot is taken to a cool, dry place, preferably dark. The optimal temperature for rest is 5-10 C. The time required for recovery is from 8 to 10 weeks.

Resting bulbs do not need moisture; it is enough to water the soil 1-2 times during the entire period.

Proper treatment and recovery of amaryllis

Like all plants, amaryllis is susceptible to disease. To quickly respond to the first symptoms, it is better to have a first aid kit for plants at home, where to put:

copper sulfate;
potassium permanganate;
brilliant green;
karbofos;
foundationazole
Bordeaux mixture;
laundry soap.

Bulb rot is determined at the stage of purchase and propagation. If it starts to rot at home, all the hot spots need to be cut out, burned with brilliant green or etched with foundationazole, and dried. Red spots and stripes on the bulb are also treated.

The redness of leaves and stems can be destroyed by applying hom or copper sulfate. Yellowing and deformed leaves are washed with soapy water or sprayed with karbofos.

If white pollen appears on the stems and leaves, wiping with water and karbofos will help.

When a plant stops growing, loses leaves, and is still far from the dormant stage, it needs to be isolated. This could be either root rot or amaryllis mealybugs. In both cases, treatment with karbofos will help.

Advice! You need to carefully observe the flower if the leaves are drooping. This can be either a disease or a consequence of overwatering.

What you need to know about growing amaryllis at home

The flower must be replanted once every 2-3 years. This should be done before the resting stage. Then it can be propagated.

The bulb is dug up and carefully inspected for rot. Dying roots are removed. The daughter bulbs are separated from the mother bulbs and planted in pre-prepared pots. They are chosen with the expectation of mature plant. All manipulations for planting children are no different from planting an adult bulb.

In the third year after transplantation, the children will bloom and begin to delight their owners with new bright colors.

Propagating amaryllis by daughter bulbs is a popular and quick method. If you want to see several plants in one pot and propagate them at the same time, the seed method will help. There is no need to dig up the bulb - unseparated children will sprout in the same pot, and from one flower you will get two or three.

Proper care of amaryllis at home

Using a brush, cross-pollinate the amaryllis flowers and give the seeds a month to ripen. Afterwards they are planted in prepared and moistened soil and watered. The first shoots can be expected in 3-5 weeks.

Important! Amaryllis propagated with seeds will bloom in 5-7 years, with the help of children - in 2-3 years.

Among the popular indoor plants, amaryllis stands out, a favorite among gardeners. large flowers unusual shape and bright colors. Its ability to bloom in the darkest time - late autumn - is especially valuable. The unpretentious amaryllis, which is completely easy to care for at home, is suitable even for novice gardeners. To grow this “exotic” on your windowsill, it’s enough to know a few simple rules care

Amaryllis (Amaryllis) are herbaceous perennial bulbous flowers belonging to the genus of monocots, the Amaryllis family. The leaves are basal, oblong, linear and smooth, dark green in color; placed in two rows.

Flower arrows are tall, up to 60 cm, powerful; crowned with umbrella-shaped inflorescences with 4-6 (sometimes up to 12) flowers. The diameter of the bell flower reaches 20 cm. During flowering, which begins before the leaves appear, the plant throws out 2 peduncles. Natural amaryllis rarely blooms at home, so numerous hybrids that are easier to care for have been created.

Anyone who grows this indoor flower should remember that the amaryllis bulb is poisonous. Touching it may cause irritation. All replanting work is carried out exclusively with gloves, and the plant is positioned so that children and pets cannot reach it.

Varieties of amaryllis

Modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis amaze with their diversity. Breeders are working to increase the size of the flower and obtain original colors.

Lovers of bright accents will love amaryllis in red shades. These include the magnificent Grand Diva variety with large (up to 18 cm) double flowers cherry red color. The pistil and stamens are colored the same way, so only the light spots of the stigmas stand out against the background of the flower.
The Ferrari amaryllis variety also attracts attention, distinguished by its unusual, deep red-orange shade of petals.
The original amaryllis Exotic Peacock is a double star with pointed petals of scarlet color. In the center are white prints, repeating the shape of a petal and smoothly turning into strokes on a scarlet field.
Another hybrid of home amaryllis, Gervase, is attractive with bright scarlet and cherry stripes and strokes, randomly “applied” to the white field of petals.
No less loved are white and pink amaryllis - delicate and graceful. A large-flowered (up to 18 cm in diameter) amaryllis hybrid Apple Blossom, the petals of which are painted white with pale pink veins, is distinguished by the original greenish color of the neck.
Elvas, a long-flowering terry hybrid with white pointed petals, also attracts attention. oval shape, “decorated” with a clear crimson edging and pink-crimson specks in the center of the petal.
Amaryllis Aphrodite has a delicate color. This is one of the largest-flowered hybrids - 20-centimeter double white flowers outlined with a pink edging and covered with elegant pink strokes.
It's hard to pass by such a hybrid as Double Dream. Its huge double flowers are a sultry pink hue with darker veining.
White lovers should pay attention to the Pikoti variety. This non-double hybrid is attractive with its snow-white petals, each of which is “circled” with a clear and thin scarlet edging.
The double amaryllis Giant Amadeus is distinguished by its unusual pinkish-coral shade of strokes densely filling the white field.

Optimal growing conditions

Like any bulbous houseplant, amaryllis has a pronounced dormant period, during which aboveground part completely dies off. Accordingly, depending on the phase of development, the agricultural technology of growing at home changes completely.

	Lighting	Watering	Temperature
Active growth phase	Bright diffused light. The most suitable windows will be western and eastern orientation; southern window sills will require shading from direct sunlight. On northern windowsills, amaryllis will bloom only if there is 14-hour lighting.	Watering with partial drying of the earthen clod. That is, between waterings you need to let the top layer of soil dry, under no circumstances allowing the coma to dry out completely. Use only settled water (at least a day in an open container) and heated to 20-25 degrees. When watering, it is important not to wet the bulb and especially the growing point. No spraying required.	Does not like sudden changes; the optimal range is 18-24 degrees.
Rest phase	No lighting required.	The bulb is not watered; Once every 2 weeks the soil is sprayed with water.	Requires cool keeping (10-12 degrees).

In addition, the plant is protected from drafts, while at the same time preventing air stagnation, especially when high humidity. If you follow these simple rules, growing amaryllis will not cause any trouble.

How to plant amaryllis correctly

The key to successfully growing amaryllis at home is correct landing. If you select the wrong pot or soil, the bulb will not be able to bloom luxuriantly and abundantly or even begin to rot.

Choosing a pot

The diameter of a suitable pot directly depends on the size of the amaryllis bulb. She prefers to sit in tight spaces, so the planting container is chosen so that there is no more than 5 cm between the bulb and the walls. At the same time, amaryllis has a fairly powerful root system, which means the pot must be deep.

The material from which the pot is made is also important. A narrow and tall plastic container will be too unstable for amaryllis with its long spreading leaves and tall peduncles. Accordingly, a ceramic pot is more suitable. It can be glazed or not: opinions differ on what is best for the plant. In glazed pots, oxygen access to the roots is limited; In numerous pores of unglazed containers, pathogenic microorganisms accumulate and intensively develop.

Soil selection

Most suitable soil for amaryllis - a mixture of equal parts of leaf and turf soil with river sand. Some gardeners add humus to the mixture. Primer before use mandatory Sterilize: add a small amount of water and boil for an hour. It is enough to rinse the sand until clean water. You can use ready-made soil purchased at the store for planting.

Planting process

Before planting an amaryllis bulb, check it for damage: cracks, soft dents, dark spots or other signs of fungal disease or rot. Damaged areas, if any, are cut back to healthy tissue. The cut area is sprinkled with foundation or crushed charcoal.

The bulb is cleaned of dead scales. They differ from white or greenish living ones by having a darker brownish tint. Before planting, it is immersed in a fungicidal solution for several minutes. It is best to prepare it using foundationazole; Copper oxychloride will also work. The drugs are diluted in water according to the instructions on the package. If you don't have fungicides on hand, you can use a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. Use for pre-planting treatment biological drugs(Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Pervikur) is inappropriate. After disinfection, the bulbs are thoroughly dried.

Pour 2-3 cm of drainage (expanded clay) into the pot and fill it halfway with soil. The bulb is placed in the center of the pot with the blunt end down and filled two-thirds full. The soil is compacted and watered. You can plant several amaryllis in a pot. In this case, there should be a gap of at least 10 cm between the bulbs.

How to care for amaryllis

Rules for caring for amaryllis at home vary significantly depending on the growth phase.

During the rest period

The fact that the plant is preparing to enter the dormant stage can be judged by the yellowing and dying leaves. During this period, they begin to gradually reduce watering and fertilizing. As soon as the amaryllis has fully bloomed and dropped last page, watering is stopped. Usually the plant goes dormant in late October - early November.

A little secret that guarantees lush flowering at home next season: amaryllis should not be “helped”. Many novice gardeners try to quickly get rid of unattractive withered leaves and tear or cut them from the plant, not knowing that they are thus weakening the bulb. The leaves, dying, give it all the nutrients accumulated during the growth period, necessary both for rest and for future awakening. Therefore, the leaves are removed only after they are completely dry and easily separated.

For proper rest, the bulb needs 2-3 months. If agricultural practices are violated at this stage, it may wake up earlier, which will affect both the further development of the rosette and flowering. More often the bulb is left in a pot, which is placed in a cool, dry, dark and well-ventilated place. You can dig it up. In this case, the onion is peeled and placed in wooden or carton boxes filled with peat, coconut fiber or sawdust.

From the moment of moving to winter holidays caring for amaryllis comes down to regular (once every 2 weeks) spraying the substrate with a small amount of water from a spray bottle. To awaken, the bulb is transplanted into a fresh substrate, placed in a lighted place and watering is increased.

During the period of active growth and flowering

Caring for amaryllis after waking up can be divided into two stages: before and after the appearance of the flower arrow. Water the freshly planted bulb moderately, being careful not to over-water it, until the first shoots hatch.

After the arrow appears:

The plant begins to be watered as usual (with drying the top layer of soil), avoiding water getting on the bulb. Lack of moisture during this period can cause the flower to begin to wither without opening; an excess will lead to its rotting.
Caring for and growing indoor amaryllis at home involves applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizers every 2 weeks. You can use any fertilizer for flowering plants or specialized fertilizers for bulbous plants.
It is not advisable to apply organic fertilizers (manure, humus). In addition to the fact that unrotted residues can cause the death of the bulb, they contain too much nitrogen, and practically no phosphorus and potassium needed by the bulb.
After the first bud blooms, fertilizers begin to be applied weekly.

Flowering at home lasts from 2 to 4 weeks; after its completion, leaves begin to appear. Healthy strong bulbs can form 2 flower shoots. If there are more of them, it is better to remove the “extra” ones, since too much flowering depletes the bulb. After the buds have withered, the peduncle is not cut off until it completely turns yellow - this way the nutrients in it will pass into the bulb. Caring for an amaryllis flower after flowering, when it forms a rosette, is no different, except that fertilizing is reduced to once a month.

Propagation of amaryllis at home

There are several ways to propagate amaryllis:

from seeds;
children;
dividing the bulb.

Each of them has its own nuances.

Seeds

Amaryllis are propagated by seeds, but this is technically difficult and labor-intensive process. It is used mainly for producing new hybrids; At home, the use of this method is impractical. To see the results of pollination, the seeds are “grown” to the size of a bulb ready for flowering within 7-8 years.

To obtain seeds, pollen taken from another “parent” is applied to the pistil of the mother plant with a soft brush. The capsule formed at the base of the peduncle will ripen within a month. The seeds are immediately sown (they quickly lose their viability) in a mixture of peat and sand and the container is placed in a place protected from sunlight. Moisten with a spray bottle if necessary. After a few months, the seedlings are planted in separate pots.

By dividing the bulb

The dividing method at home can only be used if the bulb is large enough and absolutely healthy. Using a sharp kitchen knife, cut the dormant onion into several parts so that with each part a part of the bottom with roots remains. The sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried. The slices are planted in washed sand. Before the first leaf sprouts, they are watered moderately and kept warm (at least 25 degrees). After the first pair of leaves appears, the divisions are transplanted into the usual amaryllis substrate.

Daughter bulbs

To the simplest and safe ways Reproduction by children, or daughter bulbs, applies. If the plant is healthy and receives enough nutrition, the mother bulb begins to divide on its own. Children are removed only when they are strong enough. For replanting, use the same soil as for the mother plant. When separating and replanting, it is important to damage as few roots as possible. The “break” area is sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Children should not be separated if the plant is already about to retire. In this case, it is better for them to stay with the main bulb until they wake up. Already separated “daughters” are under no circumstances sent to “sleep” in the first year - they will not have enough strength to wake up. Therefore, the pots continue to be watered and fertilized as usual throughout the winter.

Transfer

For those who take the bulb out of the pot every time it falls asleep, replanting the amaryllis is not necessary - formally it is carried out annually. Those who leave it to sleep in a pot need to completely change the soil every 3-4 years and increase the volume of the planting container. Sometimes it becomes necessary to replant amaryllis during the active phase: the bulb can grow so quickly that the pot becomes too small for it.

The transplant algorithm is simple:

The plant is removed from the pot along with the lump, the roots are shaken off the ground.
Using a sharp knife, cut off dry or rotten roots and sprinkle the cuts.
The bulb is cleaned of rotting scales, the “daughters”, if any, are separated.
The bulb is placed in a suitable pot and fresh soil, watered. Old substrate and drainage cannot be reused.

Even if the amaryllis does not need to be replanted, the top layer of soil in which salts accumulate is replaced annually, replacing it with fresh one.

Diseases and pests

Amaryllis is affected by almost all indoor pests: spider mites, onion mites, thrips, scale insects, and aphids happily settle on it. If the plant is affected by insects, insecticides are used to get rid of them (Aktara, Iskra, Aktellik); Ticks are removed using acaricides (Neoron, Kleschevit). Springtails or podura may also appear in pots - this means that the plant has been overwatered and the process of rotting has begun in the roots. Reduce watering and treat the soil with fungicides. If the root system is restored, the springtails will disappear on their own.

It is more difficult to treat fungal and infectious diseases of the bulb. Amaryllis can suffer from stagonospora and various rots. In the first case, small red spots or a border on the scales become noticeable. In the second - soft grayish or brownish spots on the leaves or bulb. In both cases, treatment with fungicides is required - foundationazole or copper oxychloride. The main salvation from any disease is proper agricultural technology.

Why amaryllis does not bloom and how to make it bloom

Sometimes amaryllis does not bloom at home for several years.

There may be several reasons for this:

deep landing;
a spacious pot - in this case the plant will “prefer” to spend energy on the formation of daughter bulbs;
lack of phosphorus and potassium;
lack of light during germination;
lack of heat;
root rot or pests;
a young bulb that is not yet strong enough to flower.

The best way to “make” amaryllis bloom is to carefully follow agricultural practices and regular fertilizing.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Amaryllis is often confused with its related hippeastrum. The difference between these plants is insignificant, but still there:

Amaryllis usually blooms in August-September, and hippeastrum - at the end of February.
Amaryllis has a distinct aroma.
Hippeastrum flowers are smaller, their number on the peduncle is smaller, and the flower arrow itself is higher.
Amaryllis leaves appear only after the peduncle.
Amaryllis has a pear-shaped bulb with ash-gray scales, while hippeastrum has a round bulb, slightly flattened on the sides, with whitish or greenish scales.