The better way to insulate a stone bathhouse inside. Insulating a steam room with your own hands

When construction works are nearing completion, the question arises of how best to insulate the bathhouse. The choice of suitable material and methods of its installation, insulation technology are very important moments.

How to choose insulation

What is the best way to insulate a bathhouse? For this, natural or synthetic materials are used.

Natural insulation:

• cuckoo flax;
• red moss;
• flax tow;
• hemp hemp
• sphagnum.

Kukushkin flax is one of the natural types of insulation

These materials do not require serious material costs, are highly environmentally friendly and will help create a special atmosphere in the bathhouse, filling the interior space with natural aromas.

Main disadvantages organic materials that need to be taken into account when choosing which insulation is best to insulate a bathhouse:

• fragility of the material;
• significant labor costs;
• the need to constantly update the insulation.

It is necessary to provide protection from small rodents, birds and insects.

Many homeowners believe that it is better to insulate a bathhouse with synthetic materials that do not rot and are not damaged by rodents.

Jute felt

What is the best way to insulate a bathhouse from the outside or the inside? Jute felt can be used as inter-crown insulation for a bath. This is an organic natural material made from plant fiber.

Flax-jute felt is used not only for thermal insulation, but also to remove excess moisture from the interior of the bathhouse

To improve performance qualities, flax fiber is added to jute fibers. The result is flax wool or flax jute felt. The form of material release is tape reels. This allows you to select insulation for logs of different diameters.

Flax-jute felt is used not only for thermal insulation, but also to remove excess moisture from the interior of the bathhouse. This durable material, which will not be spoiled by any animals.

Expanded clay as insulation

Expanded clay is a bulk material of natural origin. It is a granule with a porous structure. Expanded clay is often used for insulating baths or other buildings due to the following qualities:

• moisture resistance;
• relatively small specific gravity;
• high strength granules;
• resistance of granules to mechanical damage;
• durability;
• low price.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Working with expanded clay is easy. Other bulk materials can be used together with it.

Synthetic insulation

Currently synthetic insulation are produced in large quantities and can be of the following types:

• extruded polystyrene foam (XPS boards) or regular;
• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;
• glass wool

Insulating the floor in a bathhouse with foam plastic

Each material has unique properties:

1. Expanded polystyrene provides reliable thermal insulation. At the same time, the material has low cost and low specific gravity. It should be borne in mind that ordinary polystyrene foam is fire hazardous and is easily deformed when exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, in the bathhouse it is used to insulate the dressing room, utility rooms, rest rooms. Expanded polystyrene cannot be used in the washing and steam room.
2. For a bath, it is better to choose XPS boards or extruded polystyrene foam. This material has a sealed cellular structure and a not very high specific gravity. XPS boards are resistant to moisture, compression and high loads. This gives them durability and reliability during operation.
3. Polystyrene foam is used for external insulation of a bathhouse built of brick or cinder blocks. It is glued to the external vertical surfaces of the building. Plaster and finishing material are applied on top. Polystyrene foam is highly flammable, so interior decoration It cannot be used in a bathhouse.
4. The main material for the production of mineral wool is molten rocks or waste from metallurgical production. Therefore, the cost of this insulation is low compared to other similar materials.

Bath insulation mineral wool

The result is insulation with such positive properties as:

• reliability;
• non-hygroscopic;
• strength;
• Fire safety;
• durability.

Working with such insulation is easy and convenient. The service life of the material is quite high. Therefore, when deciding how to insulate a bathhouse, you can opt for sheets or mats made of mineral wool.

Insulation with mineral wool allows you to provide the following conditions in the bathhouse:

• low thermal conductivity;
• high sound insulation;
• hydrophobicity.

Glass wool is produced by interweaving fine fibers of inorganic glass

The main thing to remember is that mineral wool is easily subject to mechanical damage. Therefore, when using it you need to act carefully and carefully.

Glass wool is produced by interweaving fine fibers of inorganic glass. High thermal insulation properties are ensured due to the large volume of air in finished material.

The cost of glass wool is low. It is sold in roll and/or tile form. The thickness of glass wool varies, so it is always easy to choose the right option.

Preparatory work

When the insulation is selected, you need to purchase everything Additional materials necessary to work with it, prepare the tools. To insulate a bath you may need:

• construction knife;
• roulette;
• level;
• hammer;
• brushes and/or spatulas;
• sledgehammer;
• construction mixer;
• container for mixing solutions;
• work clothes, mittens, rags.

When the insulation is selected, it is necessary to purchase all additional materials necessary to work with it and prepare the tools

It is better to make a list of everything you need after it has been determined how best to insulate the walls of the bathhouse, floor or ceiling, and everything has been purchased necessary materials.

How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside

When thinking about the best way to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you should remember the high level of moisture content in the interior space. Therefore, vapor barrier must be provided. This will preserve the integrity and core beneficial features insulating material. The walls of the room will be less damaged by moisture and high temperatures.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of a bathhouse? Aluminum foil is considered the most convenient vapor barrier for a bath. This material protects the heat insulator from destruction and helps conserve heat in the interior of the bathhouse. After applying the foil, the seams between the sheets must be sealed with special metallized tape.

On a note! Different sections of the bathhouse have different levels of moisture and temperature. Therefore, the decision on the best way to insulate a bathhouse inside depends, first of all, on the specific room.

Various insulation materials are used, and their installation technology is also different.

Walls in the steam room

The walls in the steam room are exposed to high temperature and humidity. Therefore, how best to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse should be considered in detail.

First, the sheathing is attached to the walls. It is best done using dry slats and/or thin timber. The resulting cells should be smooth and the same size. They will be covered with fiberglass.

Insulation with aluminum foil

A heat insulator is laid on top of the fiberglass. Basalt fiber is considered the most reliable for steam rooms. Last layer- vapor barrier. Aluminum foil is used for this.

When all the work is completed, decorative finishing of the walls is carried out. To do this, you can use lining made of durable types of wood. It should be remembered that if the interior space of the bathhouse is not divided into several rooms, insulation according to the described scheme is carried out everywhere.

Basalt fiber is considered the most reliable for steam rooms.

How to insulate a ceiling

The better way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse depends on the purpose of the particular room. Hygroscopic material should not be used in the washing room and/or steam room. In the wash room or dressing room, you can use plastic film or kraft paper for vapor barrier.

On a note! To improve air circulation between the vapor barrier and the finishing material, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap (gap) of no more than 2 cm.

This will speed up the drying of the casing after using the bathhouse, otherwise excessive moisture will cause the material to rot and will have to be replaced.

How to insulate a floor

Significant heat losses in the bathhouse occur not only through the ceiling and walls, but also through the floor, especially when the bathhouse is used in the cold season - winter, autumn, in early spring.

To figure out how and what is the best way to insulate the floor in a bathhouse, you should remember that the order of laying the floor pie must be strictly followed. The earthen floor must be leveled, cleared of debris and foreign objects and leveled. You need to pour a concrete screed onto the prepared surface.

A layer of rolled waterproofing material must be laid on the set concrete. This can be roofing felt or plastic film.

Next, the entire surface is covered with a layer of heat insulation. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then roofing felt or polyethylene is re-laid. The final layer is concrete screed.

The laying of all layers of the floor pie must be carried out carefully. You especially need to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - this will preserve the integrity of all materials. Properly carried out internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for proper use of the bath and heat preservation.

External insulation of a bath

The better way to insulate a bathhouse from the outside depends on the main building material, from which the building was erected.

External floor insulation in a bathhouse

For external insulation of brick baths, mineral wool is most often used. It is best to apply this material in 2 layers, overlapping the seams between the sheets laid earlier. This will prevent the appearance of cold bridges and help retain heat.

A bathhouse made of blocks is insulated according to a similar scheme. For expanded clay concrete blocks, the layer of external insulation may be slightly thinner.

Wood retains heat well. In this case, the question of what is the best way to insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the outside is a little easier to solve. The basic scheme for applying a layer of thermal insulation depends on the wood building materials used.

Important! If the bathhouse is built from timber, it is necessary to seal the seams of the main frame. To do this, you need to make neat layers of flax-jute fiber.

Deciding on the best way to insulate a frame bath requires special attention. The free space between the frame components must be filled with a heat insulator. For this, mineral wool is used, protected on both sides with a waterproofing film.

If it was built for a bathhouse log house, only inter-crown joints need to be insulated. For this, it is optimal to use flax-jute felt or other natural material.

Insulation of a bathhouse is one of the main things that you need to pay attention to when designing and building a bathhouse. After all lack of thickness of thermal insulation material and too small a thickness of walls made of timber, logs, foam concrete or other materials can lead to the fact that the bathhouse will take a long time to warm up and cool down quickly. In turn, solving this problem will require increased fuel consumption, as well as, in rare cases, a more powerful stove. In addition, do not forget about condensation, which, if insulated incorrectly, can form on the internal surfaces of the ceiling and walls, as well as on the surface of the external cladding.

As for condensation in the bathhouse, it must be taken seriously. Indeed, unlike, for example, a residential building, here the air humidity inside the steam room can be as close as possible to 100%, and the temperature difference compared to the street can reach 100°C or more. Such conditions contribute to the formation of an increased volume of condensate, which, if not properly insulated, can lead to the rapid formation of fungus and mold on building materials.

This article will discuss which insulation is best used when building a bathhouse, how to properly perform external and internal insulation and some other issues related to this topic.

Which insulation is better to use

A bathhouse is a structure in which, at least in one room, the air temperature can reach 120°C and the air humidity can reach 100%. Such conditions place increased demands on environmental friendliness, thermal conductivity and moisture resistance of materials. Next, we will compile a table of the main thermal insulation materials, on the basis of which we will conclude which one is more suitable for a bathhouse.

Type of insulation	Material Density	Heat loss	Environmentally friendly when heating	Relation to moisture	Main disadvantages
Expanded clay	from 250 kg/m 3	from 0.1 W/m°С	almost absolute	absorbs moisture, does not rot	greater thickness required
Styrofoam	from 10 kg/m 3	from 0.030 W/m°C	releases harmful substances		burning, "not breathing"
Extruded polystyrene foam	from 28 kg/m 3	from 0.030 W/m°C	releases harmful substances	does not absorb moisture and does not rot	burning, "not breathing"
Basalt wool	from 20 kg/m 3	from 0.031 W/m°C		absorbs moisture and may rot	stone dust in the air
Glass wool	from 20 kg/m 3	from 0.031 W/m°C	depends on the composition of binding additives	absorbs moisture and may rot	glass dust in the air
Ecowool	from 30 kg/m 3	from 0.032 W/m°C	depends on the concentration of borax and boric acid	absorbs moisture and may rot	moderately flammable material

Conclusions:

1. The table shows that the most suitable insulation materials for bathhouses from the point of view of environmental friendliness, fire safety and thermal conductivity are glass wool and basalt wool (minslab). Only they must be well ventilated and protected from direct moisture to avoid their rapid rotting. Also, these materials need to be separated with something that will not let their small particles inside the bath. In both cases, a vapor barrier can cope with this.

2. In second place you can put expanded clay, which is absolutely environmentally friendly (if it does not emit radiation), fire safety and durability. The only disadvantage of expanded clay is that in the thickness of the wall it is required at least 4 times more than previous thermal insulation materials.

3. It is advisable not to use other bath insulation materials, as their negative aspects can lead to disastrous consequences. These aspects primarily include low fire safety (even if these materials do not burn, they support combustion) and poor environmental characteristics. True, as for ecowool, these indicators directly depend on the content of borax and boric acid in its composition. That is, the higher their percentage, the better their resistance to fire and fungi and the worse their environmental friendliness, and vice versa.

Proper insulation of the bath

Insulation of a bath involves the use of special materials with low thermal conductivity coefficient in order to reduce the thickness load-bearing material walls, thereby increasing the heat retention time in the bathhouse and reducing the likelihood of condensation forming on the inner surface of the walls or ceiling. Such materials are used today in all baths without exception. After all, even if this structure is built from timber or logs, at a minimum, the ceiling or roof is insulated.

You can insulate the walls of the bathhouse from the outside or from the inside, i.e. thermal insulation material can be placed with outside load-bearing walls or from the inside. Moreover, below, by external non-frame walls we will understand walls whose thickness is at least 100 mm, for example, timber 100 mm thick.

External insulation

The correct “pie” of the wall for external insulation of a wooden bath looks like this, starting from the inside:

1. Load-bearing walls made of timber or logs.

2. Frame or guides, made by mounting a metal profile, boards or timber to a load-bearing wall with a pitch of about 600 mm. Moreover, the thickness of these elements should be greater than or equal to the thickness of the heat-insulating material.

3. Insulation, the thickness of which is selected in such a way that condensation does not form on the wall surface as a result of the contact of cold and warm air masses.

4. A layer of windproof membrane or other similar material that can protect internal structures and thermal insulation from moisture from the outside and at the same time not preventing the escape of water vapor.

5. Lathing made of boards or slats 10-30 mm thick, attached to the main frame or guides vertically or horizontally. It is installed to create an air gap, thanks to which condensation will not accumulate on the windbreak if it forms.

6. Sheathing made of boards, lining or siding, which is attached to the sheathing.

If it is planned to build a bathhouse made of brick or cellular concrete, then first of all comes the sheathing. This is followed by a ventilation gap. Next comes the vapor barrier. Then - a load-bearing wall. After this, starting from point 3, everything is the same as when insulating a wooden bathhouse.

(+) Pros: does not “eat up” the space inside the bathhouse; all the harmful effects of thermal insulation, for example, dust from mineral slab, remain outside; longer service life of the bathhouse compared to internal insulation.

(-) Minuses: In rainy and cold weather, it is not very pleasant to carry out insulation work.

Internal insulation

A distinctive feature of internal insulation is the location of the heat-insulating material inside the bathhouse, i.e. Insulation, unlike the previous case, comes before the load-bearing elements of the wall.

Properly performed internal wall insulation includes the following sequence of materials, starting from the inside of the bath:

2. An air gap 10-30 mm thick, which is obtained by installing lathing according to the principle described in external insulation. If the bathhouse will be used only at times when the temperature outside is positive, then it can be omitted.

3. Vapor barrier layer, i.e. a material that can retain moisture and at the same time allow air to pass through.

4. Frame or guides.

5. Insulation.

6. Load-bearing walls.

(+) Pros: comfortable installation, regardless of the weather.

(-) Minuses: area decreases interior spaces by increasing the thickness of the walls; microscopic fractions of the mineral slab can penetrate inside the bath; under similar conditions, the amount of condensate is 2 or more times greater than with external insulation.

Insulation of a frame bath

A frame bathhouse is a structure in which the load from the roof and ceiling is carried not by a series of foam blocks, bricks, timber or logs, but by a frame made of lumber of a relatively small cross-section. The main difference between insulation frame bath from the previous two options is that here the thermal insulation material is not applied to the side load-bearing wall, but is laid inside it. That is, in principle, such a bathhouse cannot exist without insulation.

The correct wall of such a bath should consist of the following layers, starting from the inside:

1. Sheathing made of clapboard or boards.

2. An air gap 10-30 mm thick, arranged according to the principle of internal insulation.

3. Vapor barrier.

4. Support frame.

5. Thermal insulation material.

6. Hydro-wind protection.

7. An air gap 10-30 mm thick, obtained by installing lathing. Moreover, it should be noted here that it is better to always make this gap if you want to preserve the external appearance for a long time wood paneling in acceptable condition. After all, condensation on the windbreak can form even under conditions when the air temperature outside is 20°C, and in the bathhouse it is 100°C and the air humidity is 100%.

8. Sheathing made of lining, boards, siding, porcelain tiles, etc.

Insulation of the floor and ceiling of the bathhouse can be done according to the same principle. It can even be simplified and made cheaper by eliminating the last 3 layers and replacing the supporting frame with beams. True, this is in the case of 100% sealing of the roof.

In conclusion, I would like to separately note that the air gaps described above must have air access both from below and from above. That is, they should not be “muffled” by the structures of the floor, ceiling and roof. Otherwise, ventilation will not work, and all condensation formed will simply flow down and be absorbed into the support structures, which can subsequently lead to the formation of mold and mildew.

• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation

Often the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention to, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then the heat will not stay in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bathhouse from the inside, paying special attention to the steam room. After all, this is where you have to spend more time.

• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• façade panels;

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Stage 2: wall insulation

Scheme of wall insulation in a bathhouse.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Scheme of floor insulation in a bathhouse.

Scheme of insulating a bathhouse from the outside.

Insulating a steam room with your own hands: step-by-step instructions (video and photos)

Insulating a steam room with your own hands is quite simple. You just need to read the step-by-step instructions and prepare everything you need for work.

Insulating a steam room from the inside step-by-step instructions

Insulating the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bathhouse will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of a given room can be called high-quality if insulation work has been carried out on the ceiling, floor and walls.

The temperature in the steam room must be maintained at a high temperature. At the same time, heat loss must be minimized, and insulating the steam room from the inside will help achieve the required level of thermal protection. When constructing a bathhouse building, this room should be equipped according to all the rules.

The better the thermal protection of the steam room, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and the longer the steam will be able to remain in it, which has a beneficial effect on the human body. Regardless of the material of construction of the bathhouse, the insulation process certainly consists of thermal insulation ceiling, flooring and walls.

Materials used in arranging steam rooms

To produce internal insulation of the steam room, in former times people used exclusively environmentally friendly clean materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to rotting.

Modern materials meet many of the requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• tolerate high air humidity well;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to thermally insulate the steam room from the inside, the following building materials are used:

• wooden slats (for arranging the sheathing);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• concrete mortar;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before insulating a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside, you should prepare the following tools:

For internal lining Steam rooms are most often chosen using wooden slats, boards or lining, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building. It is wood that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Low-density deciduous wood is ideal - alder, maple, linden and aspen. Concerning coniferous trees, then when high temperatures their wood will begin to secrete resin.

Insulation of steam room walls from the inside

Properly performed insulation of the walls of a steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro- and heat insulating. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the first of them, since it must protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. If it penetrates into the insulation, this material may become wet and lose all its properties.

Most often, a vapor barrier is installed using aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be penoizol (the material is shown in the photo). At the same time, experts do not recommend using such well-known vapor barriers as roofing felt, polyethylene, glassine when covering a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins that are dangerous to human health.

In turn, the foil prevents the insulation from getting wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which heat will be retained indoors for a long time.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the thermal insulation material from moisture. The fact is that poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions high humidity, namely, such air in the steam room can trigger the onset of the rotting process. The appearance of mold and mildew on walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and human health.

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the panels must be sealed with tape to prevent steam and condensation from penetrating into the insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are mounted using construction stapler.

The next layer when creating thermal protection for the steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is made using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above-mentioned insulation materials is an environmentally friendly natural product. But mineral wool is afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool it is necessary for everyone possible ways to prevent the penetration of moist air, so this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films.

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore can be used to insulate a steam room with inside. When the steam room is insulated from the inside - step-by-step instruction suggests that work should begin by fixing wooden sheathing to the walls, to which insulation is then installed.

Thermal protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat loss in the steam room occurs due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since warm air flows always rise upward. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the room side, but also from the attic side.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling on the steam room side is carried out in the same way as it is done with walls. First of all, fix wooden sheathing. Then a thermal insulation material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. It is covered with a vapor barrier on top, and an outer finishing layer is installed on it - most often lining.

As for the ceiling on the attic side, it can additionally be insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. Special mastics are used near the chimney pipe for fire safety.

Currently, various floor coverings are installed in steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with expanded polystyrene. This material is characterized by high mechanical strength, fairly low thermal conductivity, and in addition, once in a humid environment, it does not change its qualities.

When using it to insulate a steam room from the inside, the step-by-step work looks like this:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on a prepared, level base using a special film, on which polystyrene foam boards are laid tightly one to the other.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase its service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the polystyrene foam and concrete mortar is poured. When performing work, you must not forget about arranging a slight slope to ensure water drainage.
3. After the concrete has completely hardened, which usually takes about a month, you can begin laying the finishing floor surface. A good option is to lay ceramic tiles.

You can also insulate the steam room floor using a natural material such as perlite, which is sand expanded by a special method. To create insulation, take 2 parts perlite and part water, mix and combine with cement. Mix the whole mass thoroughly.

The base of the steam room floor is poured with a concrete screed, on top of which an insulating mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then the screed is made again and the work is completed with a finishing floor covering made of finishing material.

Sometimes in a steam room, on a high-quality concreted, durable and reliable floor, they place wooden gratings, which should be periodically dried during operation to avoid rotting and rapid deterioration.

How to insulate a steam room?

• What will be required to carry out the work?
• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation
• Stage 4: insulation in the steam bath from the outside

Often the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention to, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then the heat will not stay in it for a long time. That’s why it’s so important to insulate the bathhouse from the inside. paying special attention to the steam room. After all, this is where you have to spend more time.

At the same time, it is necessary to insulate the steam room with high quality, performing all the work in stages. Below are step-by-step instructions. She will help you in this difficult, but so important matter.

What will be required to carry out the work?

The first step is to prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed to insulate the steam room. Here is their list:

• rolled thermal insulation material;
• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• wood material for cladding (linden, aspen);
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• facade panels;
• water-repellent varnish for wood.

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Scheme of ceiling insulation in the steam room.

First of all, thermal insulation in the steam room should be done for the ceiling. First you will need to cover it with rolled paper; it is important that its joints overlap (from 10 to 15 cm). After this, it needs to be strengthened, otherwise when further work deformation will occur. To do this, you need to take small blocks (size 5x5 cm) and nail them to a roll of thermal insulation material.

It is important here to create a monolithic coating so that seams with cracks do not form, otherwise the tightness of the waterproofing will be compromised.

As a result, steam will penetrate into the rolled thermal insulation material, which will lead to its deformation and deterioration of its performance characteristics.

Scheme of the ceiling in the steam room.

Now you need to secure the foil with additional blocks. This will prevent it from peeling off, and the finished sheathing will also allow you to quickly lay down the finishing material. Wood should act as it. The use of non-ecological materials here is simply unacceptable. After all, you will inhale the harmful substances that they emit while taking water procedures in the bathhouse. As a result, instead of improving your health, you will, on the contrary, worsen it. It’s great if you use linden or aspen for cladding the ceiling. These materials emit special resins that heal the body and make the atmosphere in the bathhouse better, as a pleasant smell spreads.

You can attach the finishing material to nails, making sure to pre-treat them with an anti-corrosion compound. The wood itself must be coated with a water-repellent varnish. It is better to do this before it is fixed to the ceiling. After all, then you will be able to process it from all sides at once, which will extend its service life.

Using boards you need to create an even surface. To prevent misalignment, be sure to use a building level. In addition, for finishing, choose only those boards that have the same thickness, otherwise differences in height in the finished coating cannot be avoided.

Stage 2: wall insulation

Scheme of wall insulation in a bathhouse.

Do not assume that only the ceiling needs to be insulated. The walls also need additional finishing using insulating materials. Therefore, having completed work with the ceiling, you will need to move on to them. It is also necessary to start insulating walls by laying out rolled material. It must then be nailed down with a wooden frame, which is immediately lined with foil. But here it is necessary to take it with a thickness of 65-70 mm. After all, much more heat escapes through the walls than through the ceiling. Therefore the use here is more thin material not acceptable. Lay it out overlapping and glue all the joints several times. masking tape. Then it will be possible to make the surface of the walls as airtight as possible. As a result, the steam room will be as warm as possible.

After this, a wooden frame is installed on the foil fixed to the surface of the walls. And the finishing material is already installed on it. It is not necessary to use boards here. you can choose lining for the walls. By the way, you can also decorate the ceiling with it, but then the insulation in the steam bath will cost a pretty penny, but if you have allocated a significant budget for this, then feel free to opt for this material. The aesthetic and performance properties will not disappoint you. The wall decoration will turn out great and will delight you every time you take water treatments.

Stage 3: floor insulation

Scheme of floor insulation in a bathhouse.

Now you can insulate the floor in the steam room. Here the work is carried out according to a slightly different scheme. The first thing you need to do is waterproofing. It is necessary to prevent mold, mildew and rot from appearing inside the floor. This layer will protect the floor from condensation. To create it, you will need to use plastic film. It is laid out over the entire surface of the floor. If there are seams, make large joints and seal them with masking tape.

Next you will need to create another layer on top of the film. It must be laid out from clean, thick paper. It is necessary to ensure that no harmful substances are released from the base of the floor. In addition, such a layer will minimize the loss of hot air. It will definitely need to be secured to a wooden frame of small width. And you need to lay out mineral wool slabs on the frame and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Then it is laid out on the floor surface next material: Styrofoam. It needs to be attached on top of the cotton wool using small nails. After which you will need to cover it with foil and put plastic wrap on it again. So many layers need to be created in order to minimize heat leakage through the floor, which occurs through it in large quantities. As a result, the insulation will be of very high quality.

And the last thing you need to do is create another frame on the floor surface. It should be thicker than the previous one. It is necessary for subsequent finishing. After all, you will need to lay boards on the floor surface. Pre-treat them with water-repellent varnish.

Stage 4: insulation in the steam bath from the outside

If your bathhouse is wooden, then you must insulate it from the outside. After all, a sealed floor, walls and ceiling in this case will not be enough. Therefore, here you need to create a crate outside the bathhouse; mineral wool slabs should be laid on it. They need to be fixed with screws or nails. After which it is lined with plastic film. Next, the façade panels are laid on it. All of them must be varnished. This will protect them from unfavorable factors environment.

Insulation in a steam bath consists of these stages. As it becomes clear, here it is necessary to carry out complex works. It is not enough to insulate only the surface of the walls and floor, you also need to not forget about the ceiling and outer skin. This is the only way to do it quality work. The result will not disappoint you. And since all the instructions are presented in an accessible form and are step-by-step, using it, you can do everything yourself.

The main thing is to prepare everything in advance necessary tools and materials. We wish you good luck in insulating your steam room!

How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands

Preface. In Rus', since ancient times, bathhouses were built from log cabins, today, along with this traditional material, timber, foam block, expanded clay and other modern materials are used. Thermal insulation of the steam room will solve the problem of rapid heat loss and the heat from the steam room will not leave so quickly.

How to properly insulate a steam room wooden bath? Thermal insulation of the dressing room and steam room will be of high quality if the work touches all three planes of the steam room - floor, walls and ceiling. Most of the heat escapes through the ceiling of the bathhouse, but other surfaces should not be ignored, including the door to the bathhouse. Let's look at how to properly insulate a steam room in a bathhouse.

Is it necessary to insulate the steam room in a bathhouse?

Photo. Insulating a steam room from the inside with your own hands

Despite the low thermal conductivity of modern and traditional materials, any steam room needs high-quality insulation. Especially when it comes to internal thermal insulation structures in the steam room - walls, floor and ceiling. Insulating a steam room is a very important task; when working, you should strictly follow the manufacturers’ instructions and take into account other nuances.

For example, not all heat and vapor barrier materials can be used when finishing the floor and ceiling in a bathhouse. Many materials cannot withstand moisture, and if you use roofing felt or glassine in a given room, then a visit to the steam room can be spoiled by unpleasant odors from these materials. The choice of thermal insulation is made depending on the material from which the bathhouse was built.

How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside

The most common materials for the construction of bathhouse walls are logs, timber, foam concrete, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete. Compared with natural wood, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is higher, which means that thermal insulation of the steam room is simply necessary. But, before considering the technology for carrying out the work, you should figure out how and how to insulate a steam room in a timber bathhouse with your own hands.

If basalt wool was chosen as thermal insulation, then high-quality mineral wool vapor barrier should be performed, since this material absorbs moisture. The most balanced solution for finishing wet rooms is penoplex or foil penofol. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for self-insulation strip foundation and blind areas of a private house.

For owners of bathhouses made of blocks, there is no question of whether or not to thermally insulate the room from the inside. It is important to learn how to insulate a steam room in a block bathhouse yourself. Thermal insulation technology is divided into three main stages: arrangement and insulation of the walls, floor, and ceiling of the steam room of a brick bath. All work can be done on your own and inexpensively.

How to insulate the walls of a steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of walls in a log steam room

Thermal insulation of log walls in a steam room from the inside is a layered “pie” of vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing layer. The vapor barrier film on the side of the warm room protects the mineral wool from moisture and the effects of steam; in addition, it additionally creates the effect of a “thermos” in the steam room and is a natural heat reflector.

Roll waterproofing prevents moisture from entering walls made of logs or timber, protects the structure from condensation and the formation of fungus, and prevents the process of rotting of the structure. To do this, use polyethylene film, foamed polyethylene or foil. The waterproofing film is laid between the thermal insulation layer and the walls in the steam room made of blocks or wood.

The insulation layer itself is placed between guides fixed to the wall. When installing the frame, please note that the distance between the guides should be 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab so that the basalt slab fits tightly into the frame. If you use slab insulation, then all cracks should be thoroughly foamed.

How to insulate a steam room ceiling with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

If many people neglect the thermal insulation of walls, then insulating the ceiling in a steam room with your own hands is simply necessary in any bathhouse. Since this part of any building is the most vulnerable in terms of heat loss. Through the ceiling of the steam room, hot air leaves the room in a short time.

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, inexpensive base materials were previously used - sawdust mixed with ordinary earth or expanded clay. The ceiling boards above the steam room were covered with loose thermal insulation, thereby significantly reducing heat loss in the room. These “old-fashioned” methods, even with the advent of new materials, have not lost their relevance to this day.

The ideal option for finishing the ceiling in a steam room is thermal insulation of this structure from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. To do this, use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where the chimney pipe comes out of the ceiling, you should use non-flammable insulation - expanded clay or Rocklight mineral wool. Let's consider further how to insulate the floor in a steam room.

How to insulate a steam room floor with your own hands

Photo. Insulating the floor in a steam room with penoplex

Let's consider a more common option for thermal insulation of the floor in a steam room - using polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex extrusion meets all the necessary requirements for thermal insulation of wet rooms. This material does not absorb moisture and is not afraid of rodents, but the insulation should only be laid on a flat base.

Most often, the floor in a bathhouse is insulated under a screed. To do this, a waterproofing film is laid on the ground to protect against groundwater, then the slab insulation is laid. Gaps and cracks between slabs should be sealed polyurethane foam. At the end, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is made. To waterproof concrete, penetrating composition Penetron or liquid glass should be used.

Used to finish the floor in the steam room floor tiles or porcelain stoneware. Can also be laid wooden floor on logs, which will be more pleasant and warm for the feet.

How to insulate a steam room

Without a good steam room, a bathhouse loses its meaning of existence. During the construction of baths, special attention is paid to this room. The main task of the steam room is to store hot air and steam for a long time, to ensure the quality of bath procedures at the highest level. And the main job of the builders is to insulate the steam room in the bathhouse in such a way as to eliminate prolonged heating and rapid cooling, and to increase the concentration of steam.

Poorly performed thermal insulation work and the use of low-quality materials will inevitably lead to the appearance of dampness, mold, and rotting wooden structures. This applies to all surfaces of the steam room: floor, walls, ceiling. It is very important to carefully and step-by-step carry out work on insulating the steam room from the inside; step-by-step instructions will help you correctly navigate the sequence of actions and the choice of materials.

Choice of insulation

A steam room is a specific room, so the choice of thermal insulation materials for walls, ceiling and floor should be approached responsibly. The insulation for the steam room must be moisture resistant, not afraid of significant temperatures, and not emit toxic substances. Mineral wool, or more precisely its variety - stone or basalt wool, most closely fits these definitions. It is also produced in the form of slabs of various thicknesses and dimensions. The material can be easily cut with a regular construction knife, so the slabs stone wool very easy to adjust to the desired size. For arranging the floor and ceiling from the outside, they are used bulk insulation materials– expanded clay or expanded perlite.

Foil material is most suitable for steam and waterproofing for steam rooms. It is produced on a foam base or on kraft paper. You can use any of them, but in the case of insulating a steam room from the inside, preference is usually given to the second option.

The procedure for performing insulation procedures

The process of insulating the steam room in a bathhouse proceeds from top to bottom. That is, work begins to be carried out from the ceiling, then the walls and, finally, last resort, - floor. It would not be superfluous to remind you that before starting insulation work you should clean wooden surfaces from dust, signs of fungal manifestations. It is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and a fire retardant, since it is possible to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside efficiently and effectively only with a well-prepared base.

Ceiling insulation

It is most convenient to insulate the ceiling from the attic side. Ideally, do this on both sides, because the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable parts of any building, especially a bathhouse. It is through this structure that the most large share heat loss from the inside. So, from above:

• a layer of rolled vapor barrier is attached to the rough ceiling, tightly closing all joints and making an overlap on the pediment and rafter elements;
• pour a layer of expanded clay or foamed perlite and level it;
• in places where the thermal insulation comes into contact with the chimney, they are treated with fire-retardant mastics.

Insulation of a steam room in a wooden bath from the inside on the ceiling occurs as follows. If the ceiling structure below has smooth surface, then a frame is built on it. If there are ribs, there is no such need. The first layer of the thermal insulation cake is a vapor barrier membrane, which is attached to the base, observing the configuration of the ribbed surface. Then stone wool slabs are laid as tightly as possible between the beams and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The next stage of insulating the steam room, its upper part, is the installation of a protective layer of foil material. The joints between individual sheets are sealed with aluminum foil tape. Particular attention must be paid to the junctions between the ceiling and the walls in order to prevent the slightest possibility of the appearance of “cold bridges”. If necessary, use polyurethane foam.

Baths are built not only from wood; there are options for brick buildings. In such buildings the process of execution thermal insulation works looks a little different. Insulation of a steam room in a brick bathhouse begins at the stage of constructing the roof structure. Supporting ceiling beams, which are to be embedded in brick walls, are wrapped in two to three layers of glassine or roofing material before laying. The nests for them are made slightly wider than the beams themselves, and the free space is filled with polyurethane foam or mortar. From the outside, the recesses are covered with masonry. Next, the ceiling structure is installed, and insulation is performed in the same way as in a log house.

Thermal insulation of walls

Insulation of the wall surfaces of a brick bath begins with the application of a waterproofing layer to them. Most often used roll materials or mastics that do not contain bitumen. Because the specific smell of this material, when heated, can penetrate the room and spoil the positive impression of visiting the steam room. Further, the process of producing thermal insulation work for walls made of brick and wood is the same and is carried out in the following order:

• Vertical bars are placed on the walls in increments equal to the width of the stone wool slabs;
• using a construction stapler, attach a vapor barrier membrane, carefully wrapping it around each beam;
• between the bars, heat-insulating material is tightly laid in one or two layers, depending on the thickness of the slabs; stone wool is a little springy, so it holds well on its own and does not require additional fastening;
• The top vapor barrier layer is made of aluminum foil on kraft paper; you can use foil material on a foam base, but the first option works more reliably in humid conditions.

The foil is secured end-to-end, and the seams are covered with a special adhesive-based protective tape. All work must be carried out carefully and responsibly, but special care is required when sealing corners and places where walls meet the ceiling surface.

Floor insulation

Making warm floors in the steam room is no less important than properly insulating the walls and ceiling. You can use two options: using slab materials or bulk materials. However, in both cases, you need to start with leveling the surface and a rough preparation device. And here, too, there can be two versions: with and without drain. By and large, water is not used in the steam room, so there is no need to install a drain hole there. But some developers do this. Then, when arranging the floor pie, starting from the preparatory layer, slopes are made towards the drain. Otherwise, the floor must be strictly horizontal. Now about the floor structure itself:

1. Insulation with polystyrene foam boards. After rough preparation, a layer of waterproofing is laid with a slight overlap on the walls. Then the insulation boards are laid in one or two rows, depending on the thickness. The next step The reinforcing mesh is laid and then screeded with cement-sand mortar.
2. For insulation with bulk materials, expanded clay or perlite is used. First, waterproofing must be done. Then pour a layer of dry insulation required thickness, level it using the plaster rule according to the level. The covering layer is made concrete mixture or solution.

The clean floor in the sauna is made of rough ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware. Traditional ones are often used wood coverings. Well behaved terrace board. In addition, its use is useful in terms of safety, since the board has a corrugated surface and does not slip.

Wall and ceiling cladding in the steam room

For cladding walls and ceilings in a steam room, they are usually used. wooden lining. Each owner chooses and arranges the design of the steam room of the bathhouse according to his own taste. However, there are general rules that must be followed. First of all, this is the type of wood from which the lining is made. Linden, aspen, and larch are considered the most suitable. It is undesirable to use breeds containing a large number of resin At high temperatures they emit fumes with a heavy odor. The next requirement is that the lining must not have knots, cracks or other defects. That is, high-quality material is best suited for lining a steam room.

The principle of covering walls and ceilings is traditional. A sheathing is made using aluminum foil with the beams positioned for the planned layout of the lining. Then the planks are attached to the frame, connecting them with tongue-and-groove locks.

Insulating a steam room from the inside - step-by-step instructions

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bathhouse must select the correct thermal insulation material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must demonstrate high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient should not rise above 0.2 W/(m K). And this is only for flooring. And for insulating walls and ceilings, it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W/(m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially the flooring material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of the floor, this material will not work.

Thirdly, the open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements for walls and attic floors. Here the characteristics of the material can be improved through external finishing.

Fourthly, insulating a steam room requires constant contact of the material with an area of ​​high temperatures. Some amateurs manage to heat the room up to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 °C is considered a normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even after a long, many-hour stay in this temperature range.

Fifthly, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. The release of harmful substances and the provocation of allergic reactions is excluded in principle. People go to the bathhouse for health, not for new illnesses.

As a result, granulated expanded clay should be considered the optimal insulation option for the field. It is not afraid of mechanical stress or moisture. It is better to use regular or foil-clad mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heat, and a layer of finishing will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical stress.

Polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, foil polyethylene are not suitable for insulating a steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, you can begin to directly insulate the steam room from the inside, having first studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate a floor - layer by layer overview

To do this, we will have to form a multilayer structure in the direction from the ground, consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a plastic film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists of adding a layer of sand, at least 15 centimeters thick.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to double thickness walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must reach the level of the first crown of the bathhouse frame.

Expanded clay is perfect for thermal insulation of the steam room floor

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20-centimeter cells is laid on the expanded clay and the screed is poured using sand-cement mortar with filler. The optimal thickness of the screed is from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future baseboard, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing skirt made of foil, which protects the logs from contact with concrete.

To finish a heat-resistant floor, use tiles or boards laid on the sheathing.

Insulating the ceiling - step-by-step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, you need a completely different heat insulator - foil-coated mineral wool. It can withstand heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily withstand the usual temperature in this steam room zone, which does not rise above 160-180 °C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer, which protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is to lay sheathing boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The pitch of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The ceiling is insulated with foiled mineral wool

The third step is laying insulation. After completing the assembly of the sheathing, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, laid with foil outward (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully taped with foil tape. After completion of the work, there should be no gaps left on the ceiling.

The final step is installation of finishing boards (lining) or plywood panels on top of the sheathing. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options made of pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bathhouse is made from deciduous trees hard varieties.

How to insulate walls in a steam room - an overview of the process

Installing vertical thermal insulation on the walls of a bathhouse does not require the use of expensive foil-coated mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and shield from high temperatures.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We saturate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the log house from rot and fungus.
• We fill the walls with boards 3-4 centimeters thick and 2-3 cm wider than the depth of the insulation. The spacing of the boards should match the width of the mineral wool roll. At the end, all boards must be soaked with an antiseptic.
• We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the sheathing, rolling it out in horizontal stripes from bottom to top. In this case, the upper strip should overlap the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). It’s better to use staples (from a stapler) as fasteners. Moreover, it is better to seal the joints with foil tape.
• We stuff 2 centimeter thick planks onto the boards, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. This will create a counter-lattice. And at the end, on top of these planks, we install hardwood paneling.

Such a scheme allows you to assemble very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical stress by a clapboard finish. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

Insulating a steam room from the inside step-by-step video instructions

Insulating a steam room from the inside step-by-step video instructions Insulating a steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bathhouse will be reduced to zero. Thermal insulation

Insulating a steam room from the inside yourself

The bathhouse helps us relax not only with our bodies, but also with our souls.

Therefore it is important that Decoration Materials not only fulfilled their direct function, but also pleased with their attractive appearance.

A few general rules

The first step before the next treatment is preparing the work surfaces.

It is necessary to inspect the base to see if there is any fungus and mold on it.

There should also be no foreign inclusions or protrusions.

To get rid of fungus, it is enough to use a regular antiseptic composition.

Without it, insulating the steam room from the inside will remain ineffective.

It is important to pay attention to the safety of materials.

The main requirement in this case is the ability to withstand high temperatures. Materials must not absorb moisture and must have reliable protection from mold.

And remain durable. Aluminum foil and basalt are good, modern solutions. The technology itself plays no less a role than the materials.

How to make insulation

During the work we will get a kind of “sandwich”. It usually consists of several layers.

• Waterproofing. Prevents the appearance of fungal and mold formations. And prevents the activation of decay processes. This layer also protects the walls from the appearance of condensation on them. It forms when a surface is exposed to hot steam. Polyethylene film or foil are considered best waterproofing materials. This is also required for insulating a steam room from the inside in a wooden bathhouse.
• Thermal insulation. Plain, clean paper is first laid on the base. The insulating layer comes only after this. Paper base makes sure that even minimal amounts of harmful substances are not released into the air. The paper ensures that the minimum amount of hot air escapes. After this, a wooden frame with the same width as the insulating material itself is attached on top. Synthetic board or mineral wool often make excellent insulation materials.
• To protect thermal insulation from the effects of steam, a vapor barrier is needed. It also reflects thermal radiation. And it creates a kind of “thermos” effect. This layer is made of foil, with a thickness of up to 65 microns. Installation is carried out to a wooden sheathing. What are small nails or a stapler used for? The main thing is to carefully cover all edges and joints with foil. Then the steam will definitely not penetrate inside the insulation.
• Internal lining. For which all surfaces are covered with clapboard. The frame is mounted on top of the heat-insulating layer. The lining itself, which is made from different types of wood, is also laid on the frame itself. The most important characteristic in this case, the minimum density.

What materials to choose

The question is not only choosing between artificial and natural origin. There are several other factors to consider.

This applies to purpose and appearance, cost. Materials that solve this issue can be classified into one of the following groups depending on their properties.

• Wall blocks and slabs.
• Matte and lamellar, fibrous varieties.
• Backfills with different densities

Several groups are distinguished according to chemical composition:

• Which have a plastic base. This includes polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam.
• Technoblocks and technovets. This is a group of technical insulation materials.
• Inorganic compounds include glass and mineral wool, basalt fiber.
• Organic. These include wood concrete and fibrolite, aqua wool.

Each variety has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, for insulating steam rooms from the inside, plastic insulation materials are not very suitable.

This is due to the fact that such a base does not resist the impact open fire. But they can be used to insulate other rooms included in the bathhouse.

In turn, organic bases benefit from environmental safety. Their cost always remains affordable. But if you don't use special compounds for processing, the material remains flammable.

Inorganic varieties are considered more versatile and practical. This is why mineral wool has become such a popular solution.

Internal insulation will be more effective with materials such as:

• Aluminum foil
• Polyethylene materials
• Glassine base
• Ruberoid types

Vapor barrier with glassine and roofing felt will not give the desired result. After all, these materials, when exposed to high temperatures, release chemically active and harmful substances.

But glassine is generally used to insulate baths. But best of all, it has proven itself in conjunction with materials such as lining, aluminum foil, mineral wool and log house.

There are several schemes by which insulation is carried out. But one of them has become the most widespread. For example, when using lining with fiber insulation.

• It all starts with creating a frame on the working wall surface. We take timber battens, horizontal and vertical, and fix them on the wall. The timber should be thicker than the insulation, but only by 20-30 millimeters. This reserve is necessary to predict possible shifts.
• After this, the wall is sheathed using mineral wool.
• A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. The main thing is to overlap the materials. For places with joints and their sealing, thin slats are used. A distance of approximately 3 centimeters should remain between the mineral wool and the vapor barrier.
• The lining is pressed onto the surface of the vertical sheathing. The width of the latter is 40-50 mm. There is still a distance remaining, which will be a kind of gap for the ventilation system.

Such work has proven its effectiveness. But they require certain costs, both in time and in effort.

There are now materials on the market that greatly simplify the entire process. Moreover, they combine the functions of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

One such option is foil foam. This is a fire-resistant insulation; there are no problems with its installation. As you can see, insulating a steam room from the inside is not a very complicated technology.

The scheme described above is well suited for installing timber buildings. In panel and frame structures your requirements for this process. There are several lightweight materials that will become indispensable assistants when working with panel walls:

Treatment of the heat insulator with lime milk acts as an additional requirement. In the future, you will need to dry the base properly. Due to this, fire resistance increases, rotting will no longer threaten the material.

If the walls are used in difficult conditions from a climate point of view, then the walls can be covered with fiberboard, or their equivalent - reed slabs. In warm regions, the use of gypsum, cement and particle board compounds will be relevant.

Work order for ceilings

Ceilings suffer the most from exposure to temperatures that are often 160 degrees. The insulation process itself and its features depend on the design of the ceiling itself.

The work will look like this if there is an attic or ceiling.

• We coat the ceiling boards with clay. Its layer should have a thickness of about 20 mm.
• Clay is needed to effectively retain moisture.
• Wooden chips are poured into the cracks that form between the boards.
• Other materials can also be used for thermal insulation. The main thing is that their thickness is at least 200 mm.

The insulation scheme for rooms where there is no attic looks somewhat different. First they put it there vapor barrier material. Sheathing and insulation layer come next, followed by ceiling boards and beams.

Depending on the materials used and design features, the order of work will always vary.

Places where insulation and pipes are connected to each other. Between them it is necessary to make an indent of approximately 200 millimeters so as not to violate fire safety requirements. To do this from rafter legs a special box is constructed.

It will be the part that separates one part of the structure from another.

The main thing when insulating a bathhouse is to ensure that there are no places through which warm air could leave the premises. It is also necessary to do everything possible to prevent the formation of condensation.

About floor insulation

You can use two solutions to insulate the floor in a steam room.

Polystyrene has an important advantage in the form of a cellular structure. Thanks to this, moisture will never penetrate inside the material. Thermal insulation properties remain high, even if the surface is subject to severe mechanical stress.

Insulating the steam room from the inside

But this material is most often used in baths that are built of brick.

He demands additional protection, because the brick itself easily conducts moisture inside.

Expanded polystyrene is a material that meets all safety requirements.

But the surface requires preliminary preparation before using such material.

The main requirements are strength and evenness. You can't do without thorough drying.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the material prepared in advance. Then, on top, the polystyrene foam boards themselves are installed.

Here it is important to ensure that there are no places left without treatment. Gaps and cracks can cause the formation of so-called cold bridges, so they should also be absent.

Decorative coatings are also laid on top, but only after the base has completely dried. Ceramic tiles are one of the best solutions today.

But it is also possible to create a collapsible wooden floor. It fits perfectly into the interior of the bathhouse. And walking on such a surface is very pleasant. With a removable structure, you can dry the boards without any problems, which extends the overall service life.

About ventilation in the bathhouse

It is impossible not to consider this issue when touching on the topic of insulation.

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on this part of the system in the bathhouse. Ventilation should not just provide air flow into the room. It is important that it does not let the cold in, but retains heat.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to create special supply and exhaust channels. An inlet opening is located near the stove, slightly above floor level.

As for the exhaust duct, it should be on the opposite side, in the upper part of the room. Special valves provide air flow regulation. One more condition must be met for the system to work properly - that the supply opening be half the size of the exhaust opening.

The operation is regulated by valves. If you manage them correctly, you can achieve the desired results. If you open only one valve, only pleasant aromas will remain in the room and the air will be fresh. Intensive forced ventilation is organized by opening two valves at once.

About floor waterproofing

The base and its materials determine which insulation method is used in a particular case. Each method should be considered separately.

Concrete floor insulation

This is the simplest and most affordable waterproofing solution for those who have a steam room. It is suitable for washrooms where the floor is completely filled with concrete. The order of work will be as follows.

• First, the floor surface is leveled until there are no deviations at all. Even the slightest dimples and tubercles are unacceptable.
• After this they proceed to applying bitumen mastic. You have to wait until it dries.
• Polyethylene film and roofing felt are laid on top of this layer.
• The base of the floor is ready, you can proceed to laying ceramic tiles.

There is a second method. Its implementation is more complicated. But the result justifies all the costs, such waterproofing will pleasantly surprise high quality. There are several steps you need to take.

• A plywood sheet is fixed to the surface of the subfloor.
• Hydrosol is laid on top of plywood. This is a material whose edges extend behind the wall.
• All joints in the waterproofing layer are reinforced with aluminum tape.
• Places of seams and joints that remain untreated are sealed with a regular construction hairdryer.
• Next comes laying the reinforced mesh and laying the concrete mortar.
• The last stage includes decorative cladding.

To prevent all walls from getting dirty, the lining is covered with tape. You also need to look at the age of the log house for the bathhouse. Buildings usually last for at least two years before complete shrinkage. Otherwise, the floor surface will be deformed.

Insulating a wooden floor

This insulation method is very similar to what we wrote about earlier. It features the simplest step-by-step instructions.

• A layer of mineral wool mat with a minimum thickness of 15 cm is fixed under the joists.
• Roofing felt or euroroofing felt is fixed on top of the first layer.
• Wooden structures require mandatory antiseptic treatment. This will eliminate the risk of rotting. And it will protect materials from spontaneous combustion and eating by insects.
• The subfloor must be laid on top of the antiseptic layer. After that, everything is sheathed using clapboard.
• Only the decorative cladding will remain.

Door insulation with mineral wool

Insulating a bathhouse is a process that takes place somewhat differently than in other rooms.

The main difference is the high temperature and humidity, which remain constant here.

But solving the problem is not difficult if you follow simple rules.

Seals must be laid on the wall as tightly as possible.

This will avoid the appearance of cracks and cracks through which hot or cold air passes inside.

There will be less chance that excessive moisture and condensation will appear in the bathhouse.

Drying of the insulation is ensured only by ventilation gaps, so it is not recommended to forget about them.

Ceilings must withstand the highest temperatures, this is always worth remembering. The main thing is not to use materials that are too easily deformed for insulation in this part of the room.

Or those varieties that emit harmful chemical substances when they are exposed to high temperatures. Condensation collects on plastic without any problems.

Doors and thresholds in a room also affect thermal insulation performance. A large gap under the door can lead to a low heat capacity of the steam room. There is always a solution - it is enough to install low doors that have a large threshold.

• Insulating a steam room from the inside yourself

  
  The bathhouse helps us relax not only with our bodies, but also with our souls. Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also

They build baths using different technologies from different materials. Inner like necessary element baths, it depends on the general structure. Brick and foam block baths require mandatory insulation and waterproofing.

The need to insulate log houses from is considered in each individual case.

Which bathhouse needs insulation from the inside? Which ones to use? How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside? Let's figure it out.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: Materials for insulation

ATTENTION! It is necessary to leave a small space between the vapor barrier material and the lining. The air gap becomes an additional heat-insulating layer and allows it to function natural ventilation inside the walls and ceiling.

wooden bath

If . A bathhouse built from logs or beams retains heat better than others. The need for insulation depends on the thickness of the wall material.

block baths

The choice of heat-insulating materials is determined not only by good heat retention, but also no release of toxic substances with strong heating. Pay attention to combined insulation, they can significantly simplify work.

For finishing you need to use soft wood. The lining must be carefully processed and in no case coated with any chemical compounds.

The work of insulating all parts of the bathhouse from the inside: floor, walls, ceiling, etc. is quite complex, but quite doable even without special knowledge of construction.

The quality of the steam room depends on many factors. One of the main ones is the ability to retain heat. This needs to be taken care of during the construction and installation of the furnace. But this does not always work out, and over time, for various reasons, the sauna room may lose its heat-saving properties. However, it is not difficult to correct the situation. For this purpose, there are thermal insulation materials specially designed for saunas and baths.

The most popular sauna stoves are still traditional wood-burning heaters. But today this is not the only possible option. Many owners choose electric stoves because of their ease of use and the ability to regulate temperature and humidity. Another modern solution - gas ovens: kindling does not require special skills, and the result does not depend on the quality of the firewood. But for safety reasons, only specialists should install such a stove.

Unlike a sauna, the stones in a sauna lie outside and not inside the stove. The climate created in the steam room depends on the number of stones in the stove: how less stones, the faster the stove warms up and the drier the sauna. But no matter which oven you choose, the main requirements for it are safety and reliability. This is especially true for electric furnaces: overly powerful devices will require special additional electrical equipment, and low-quality ones can be a potential fire hazard.

Tip No. 2: consider the requirements for thermal insulation materials

If the thermal insulation technology is broken or unsuitable materials are used, the steam room will take much longer to warm up and then quickly lose heat. Eliminating errors in thermal insulation can result in an almost complete reconstruction of the room. There are a number of requirements for thermal insulation materials for saunas and steam rooms:

• Effective thermal insulation properties: The hotter the sauna is, the higher the temperature difference between the steam room and other rooms. This means that heat loss will be very rapid and significant, and high-quality insulating material must be in the path of the air flow.

• Non-flammable insulation: high temperatures in the steam room are serious fire danger, which can be reduced by fire-resistant thermal insulation materials.

• Moisture resistance: High humidity in a bath or sauna can quickly damage the structure of low-quality insulation and reduce its properties.
• Biostability: that is, the resistance of the insulation to damage by fungi and bacteria that can form in a humid environment.
• Environmental friendliness: All materials for the construction of a sauna, including insulation, should not emit harmful substances during operation.

Tip #3: choose insulation that suits the sauna conditions

Based on their chemical composition, insulation materials can be divided into two groups: organic and inorganic. The former are used less and less in the construction of saunas and baths: they cannot withstand high temperatures and are subject to thermal destruction, change their properties at high temperatures and are easily flammable. There are a number of materials that it is better not to use for insulating baths and saunas:

• Expanded polystyrene: products made from it have an operating temperature of only -50°C to +75°C.
• Extruded polystyrene foam: is always flammable and changes the flammability group from G1 (lowly flammable) to G4 (highly flammable).
• Glass wool: has a short service life in a humid environment.
• Polystyrene, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam and others foam materials: when heated, they can release harmful substances, and their flammability characteristics do not correspond to steam room conditions.

Stone wool can be a good alternative as insulation. Its fibrous structure determines excellent thermal insulation properties. Unlike polystyrene foam, it is not just non-flammable, but fire-resistant and can withstand temperatures up to +1000ºС. In addition, stone wool is an environmentally friendly and safe material made from natural stone. It is resistant to moisture, does not rot and is not a breeding ground for rodents and insects. Today on the market there are types of stone wool specially designed for insulating saunas and baths.

Another advantage of stone wool insulation is that its installation is simple and does not require special skills. Here are a few guidelines to follow to achieve maximum effect:

• When insulating a room, start from the ceiling. Wooden guides with a pitch of 590 mm “in the clear” are nailed to it, into which stone wool slabs are placed, fastened by surprise. No mechanical fastening is required. It is important to take into account that the insulation boards are placed in a foil layer inside the steam room.
• Install the frame. To insulate the outdoor walls of the sauna, you need a double frame, and for the interior walls, a single frame. When insulating interior wall It is enough to install slabs with a thickness of 50 mm for the room. For a wall facing the street, it is necessary to use a material with a thickness of at least 100 mm or a combination of 50 mm and 50 mm materials.
• Seal the seams between the boards. The slabs are mounted end-to-end, with the seams of the foil covering sealed with metallized self-adhesive tape. You can make your task easier by using aluminum adhesive tape, designed specifically for use in baths and saunas. By reliably sealing the joints between the slabs, it significantly increases the vapor barrier properties of the insulation.
• Install the sheathing. It is needed to protect stone wool from contact with drops of moisture collecting on the foil. It is installed between the thermal insulation and external finishing to ensure an air gap of 10–15 mm.
• Insulate the chimney. Thermal insulation material is subjected to severe stress under conditions of prolonged high temperature exposure. The price of a mistake can be a fire. Stone wool completely eliminates the risk of fire. In addition, there are special types created for thermal insulation of fireplaces and chimneys.

The floor in the sauna can be made in two ways: wooden on logs with sheathing or concrete with tiles on the ground. In the first case, stone wool slabs are laid in the frame between the joists, and then waterproofing is performed. Rolls of waterproofing are mounted with an overlap at the joints of the plates, and the seams themselves are additionally taped. Next, a wooden flooring is laid, on top of which the finishing floor is laid.

For concrete floors, a different technology is used. First of all, rigid stone wool slabs are installed and provided with waterproofing. Then a concrete screed is laid on it, onto which the tiles are glued. In both cases, you need to remember that ensuring rapid drainage of water from the sauna is one of the the most important requirements to the flooring of such a room, so the floor should be slightly inclined towards the drain hole.

Return