– about its assembly.

Theoretically, everything seems clear. The sides are attached to the horizon, the necessary modules are mounted, all this is installed on a common horizon, well, and so on...

And when the time comes for installation, many beginners have a lot of questions: How, for example, to assemble the box, lying down or standing? When should you fill the back wall? And when to mount the built-in module with drawers?

Moreover, it turns out that even individual cabinet modules are quite heavy. In a word, everything seems to be clear, but in practice, not everything is so simple.

So, let's look at this question using a simple example.

IN in this case We have a product consisting of three sections, in the central section there is a module with drawers.

Before installing it, the following steps must be done:

• All parts must be drilled (meaning they must have all connecting holes)
• Top guide under sliding system must be fixed on the upper horizon (The lower guide is not attached, since it can then be used to align the entire system vertically, and when installing the assembled modules on the horizon, the lower guide can simply be damaged.)
• The module with drawers must be pre-drilled for the tie bolts to internal partitions cabinet
• The module itself must be completely assembled, the facades on it must be exposed

In general there is a law:

Before installation, you need to do as much as possible that can be done before installation.

Even such a trifle as attaching corners to parts will “steal” more time from you during installation than in the assembly shop, for one reason - during installation everything has to be done “on the fly”, using improvised materials, in awkward positions.

The photo shows how the outermost module is assembled.

It has a side wall that is 100mm larger than the partition (if you are wondering why, read it), so you need to put something 100mm high under the partition so that the module lies flat.

After assembly, this module needs to be raised (we agreed that the diagonal of the outermost, widest side less height from the floor to the ceiling of the room), and in a standing position, attach the stiffener to the corners.

Then, you need to put the module back down and carefully hammer the back wall (carefully, because if the nails are driven in crookedly, they can break the chipboard on the side).

Every assembled module rises and is installed on a pre-set (and exposed) general horizon.

Yes, you need to remember, when the module is still lying down, to drill holes in the body strips for further fastening of the upper horizon (it is attached through these holes with 4x30 self-tapping screws).

When the module is already standing on the general horizon, drilling holes will be inconvenient (moreover, if the distance from the last shelf to the body strip smaller size drill - it’s generally impossible, since it won’t work from the inside, and generally the gaps on top are millimeters...20-50 mm.

Each subsequent module is tightened with the previous coupling bolts, and the resulting structure is aligned relative to the common lower horizon.

Then the upper horizon is attached (we agreed that we attached the upper guide of the sliding system to it in advance, so as not to “practice” this during installation, wasting precious time).

After everything, the sliding system is installed, adjusted, and, in general, everything, the cabinet is assembled.

I think the meaning of what is written is clear, especially since assembling a wardrobe is not difficult. It’s simple, it’s more convenient to read once how to do everything than to rack your brains and ruin your nerves later.

That's all, see you in the next posts.

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How to assemble a cabinet yourself - simple instructions with explanations

Have you decided to assemble a wardrobe, but don’t know how to do it correctly? I suggest simple instructions on assembling cabinet furniture with explanations. As a result, you will be able to determine the appropriate furniture configuration and begin assembling it yourself.

Sequencing

When making a cabinet with your own hands, the sequence of actions is as follows:

• Room measurements are taken;
• A furniture design is developed, indicating the dimensions of the structure, and an estimate is drawn up for the amount of materials and fittings;
• Materials are purchased and cut, fittings are prepared;
• The mounting base is being prepared;
• Furniture is being assembled.

Where to start assembling a wardrobe

Before you start assembling, you need to decide what kind of furniture will be assembled. Conventionally, all sliding wardrobes can be divided into two types:

• Hull. In such furniture, in addition to the front part, there are sides, an upper and lower part and a back wall;
• Built-in. This type of furniture is assembled in a niche or along one of the walls in the gap between two side walls.

Illustrations	Initial works and their description
	Measuring the wall. If the corners and junction of the ceilings are made at right angles, measure the height and width of the wall. We measure the width of the wall at the top and bottom. All measurements are carried out with an accuracy of 5 mm. When taking measurements, take into account the location heating pipes and other communications that may require amendments to the scheme.
	Drawing development. Let's say we need assembled wardrobe was three-door and had 3 internal sections and a row open shelves on one of the sides. We leave one compartment for long clothes on hangers. The second compartment in the center will be intended for shelves and drawers. The third compartment will be designed for small shelves and space for an ironing board.
	Drawing up estimates and procuring materials. We calculate the amount of materials with exact dimensions and order required amount parts in specialized organizations. We calculate the amount of necessary accessories and purchase them immediately. If this is your first time assembling a cabinet, please contact us with your project. furniture factory, where a set of cabinet furniture will be made to order for you to assemble yourself.

Preparing to assemble the wardrobe

To begin with, we prepare the space for installation, namely, we move the furniture and things in the room to the wall opposite from the place where the cabinet will be assembled. We lay a blanket or cardboard on the floor. This is necessary so that it is convenient to work and does not scratch the floor during installation.

Determining the purpose of the panels

The panels included in the kit are packaged for a reason, but in strict sequence. Therefore, it is not recommended to change the location when checking the completeness structural elements.

If the cabinet components were made at home, without drawing up instructions, everything will be a little more complicated. You will have to figure out the sequence of panels yourself.

We carefully inspect the panels included in the kit for the presence of edges and technological holes. The end edge on the panels is directed towards the front side and by this feature the location of the structural elements can be determined. Yet again, technological holes under the screws and dowels must match.

Rules for installing various hardware

The prefabricated furniture kit comes with a package containing various fastening devices. You need to know how and for what purpose these parts are used.

Illustrations	Description of fasteners
	Euroscrew (confirmed). These are screws different sizes for hexagons and shaped screwdrivers. A common property for all Euroscrews is a wide thread pitch. For ease of installation, you can buy a cutter for a Euroscrew to drill a hole with a countersunk hole in one pass.
	Dowel (hidden connection). For hidden connections, a wooden dowel (Ø 8 mm) and wood glue are used. Holes of the appropriate diameter are drilled in adjacent parts. The drilled planes are connected with a glued dowel.
	Dowel and confirmation. If the connection is loaded, hidden fasteners are used, plus Euroscrews are screwed in. In this case, no glue is used and the connection is removable.
	Eccentric connection (minifixes and rafixes). This category of semi-hidden fasteners provides high connection strength. For fastening, three elements are used, one of which is screwed into one plane, the other into another, and the connecting pin connects previously installed elements between themselves.
	Corners. Various corners are used both independently and as auxiliary connecting fasteners.

Wardrobe assembly procedure

The sequence of actions when assembling a sliding wardrobe is as follows:

• Box assembly. The perimeter of the cabinet is assembled from the side walls, top and bottom;
• Rear wall mounting. A solid sheet of fiberboard is nailed to the back of the box;
• Installation of body filling. Inside the box, vertical partitions are installed with pre-fixed guides for drawers and fasteners for shelves;
• Door installation. At this stage, the door guides are installed and the doors are installed;
• Filling installation. On final stage Shelves, rods and other accessories are installed inside the almost finished furniture, thanks to which the functionality of the cabinet is ensured.

Assembling the box and nailing the back wall

The cabinet frame is assembled on the floor, so that assembled structure was located inside out. When assembling the perimeter of the cabinet, make sure that all angles are 90°. To do this we use a square.

After the box is assembled, we do not lift it, but check again that all four corners are 90°. If the box is rectangular, we fill it with a sheet of fiberboard from the inside out.

Custom cabinetry kits include pieces of the back wall that need to be secured in place. We fasten the back wall with shoe nails, which we drive into the end of the side walls along the perimeter of the box in 10 cm increments.

Installing additional items

Under additional elements This means content, namely partitions, shelves and everything that will make the finished cabinet more functional and convenient from the point of view of everyday use.

First, vertical partitions are installed, which will not only divide the closet into functional areas, but will also provide the structure with additional rigidity. After the partitions are installed, shelves, rods and other fittings are installed in accordance with the project.

Door system installation

The door system in sliding wardrobes consists of longitudinal guides, which are mounted horizontally at the top and bottom points of the structure. Between the guides there are sliding doors. Considering design features door system, the following requirements are imposed on its installation:

• The guides must be parallel to each other, otherwise the doors cannot be moved;
• The upper guide profile must be secured especially firmly, since it will bear the main load.

Installation of guides

Before attaching the guide rail, make sure that the top and bottom edges of the cabinet are level. As a result, the installed profiles should stand exactly on top of each other. You can determine the correspondence of levels using a plumb line.

We cut the profile according to previously made measurements. To ensure an even cut, use miter saw or a hacksaw and miter box.

In the profile, as shown in the diagram, we drill through holes in increments of 30 cm. The holes in the metal are immediately flared so that the screw head is hidden in the profile and does not create interference. We fasten the profile with short euroscrews.

Mirror installation

Mirror door filling, cut to the right size, placed on a flat base. A frame is assembled along the edges of the mirror from aluminum profile. Before installing the profile, a silicone damper is glued along the edge of the mirror. The profile along the edge of the frame slides in with force and is fixed with a self-tapping screw along the edge to another profile.

Door installation

The doors are assembled in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. After which the upper edge of the doors is inserted into the upper profile. Next, the lower edge of the door leaf is installed with a roller into the lower profile. Installed sash slides all the way and you can begin installing the next sash.

Door adjustment

The door leaf is adjusted in height. For adjustment in the vertical plane, adjustment screws are provided in the fittings.

To adjust, you will need a 5 mm hexagon and a little patience, since you will have to adjust all the rollers by unscrewing the bolts one by one, no more than half a turn at a time. As a result, configured door leaf It should stand up straight and move without jamming.

The nuances of assembling different types of cabinets

Illustrations	Description
	Clothes. There are no special requirements for assembling wardrobes. Main difference wardrobe- this is the corresponding content. That is, you need to provide special hangers and shelves. Of course, when assembling a wardrobe you can’t do without a mirror.
	Children's. A sliding wardrobe in a children's room is distinguished by its safe operation and design. For safety reasons, we do not use glass in such furniture. When it comes to design, the brighter it is, the better.
	Sliding. These cabinets have sliding doors. Therefore, when choosing such furniture, be prepared to purchase the appropriate fittings. However, such a cabinet - perfect solution for rooms with limited space.
	Swing. This is a traditional closet door layout. Therefore, when purchasing accessories, you can limit yourself to ordinary hinges.
	Angular. Assembly corner cabinets more difficult than making conventional wardrobes with a straight configuration. Essentially, you will have to assemble two cabinets with a corner joint.

Let's sum it up

Now you know how to assemble a cabinet yourself. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments to the text.

March 14, 2018

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

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DIY wardrobe assembly diagram in 5 steps

Out of a desire to save money, people often buy disassembled cabinet furniture in the hope of assembling it themselves. Indeed, instructions are included in any kit, but in reality, the assembly diagram of a sliding wardrobe has many nuances and so that upon completion you do not have “ unnecessary details", and the cabinet turned out to be durable, we will analyze the whole process in detail and, for convenience, we will break it down into 5 steps.

Tools and preparation for assembly

You won’t need too many tools, but you won’t be able to get by with just one screwdriver; manufacturers issue the kit with 90% readiness, the remaining 10% is written off for fitting the furniture to a specific location.

• Confirmed key, manual hexagon (often included in the kit);
• Steel hammer;
• Rubber mallet;
• Screwdrivers – Phillips and straight;
• Roulette;
• Awl;
• Confirmed drill;
• Metal drills – 4 mm and 6 mm;
• Screwdriver;
• Square;
• Pliers;
• Level (regular bubble).

Now we need to prepare workplace, on the assembly site the cabinet must be placed in any position - lengthwise, across, diagonally and even lying down. All this is needed so that you can attach the back panel made of fiberboard, and then get out of there and push the cabinet into the place intended for it.

Do not hope that the set is complete; be sure to check the presence of all parts when purchasing; furniture is assembled by hand at the factory and the human factor must be taken into account.

Assembling a closet in 5 steps

Furniture in the budget sector is made either from laminated chipboard or laminated MDF; assembling these cabinets by hand is not difficult, but it is advisable to take care of an assistant, at least for support.

Step #1: Assembling the base

In this case, we need to install the legs on the base plate and secure the fittings for the subsequent installation of the vertical walls of the cabinet.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Legs are marked. In some models, legs are not provided at all; they are installed on stands made of the same laminated chipboards, but more often the set includes adjustable legs. Here you need to see if there are holes in the base plate for these legs; if they are there, then assemble according to the diagram shown in the photo on the left.
	Legs are not marked. This situation occurs in budget models. You need to mark the mounting points and screw the legs to the base with self-tapping screws. According to the rules, with front side the legs are installed at a distance of 70 mm from the edge, and from the back 50 mm from the edge.
	Mounting hardware. The vertical walls are secured with pins for minifixes, the standard diameter is 4 mm, but there are other models.
	Installation of pins. There are ready-made holes in the base for these pins; you just need to take a tool and screw them in. The same pins are mounted in the top cover, so as not to waste time later, it is better to screw them into both plates.

Step No. 2: assembling the body

If up to this point you could do everything yourself, now it’s time to call an assistant. It is needed to keep the walls vertical. There is no need to fix the cage to the base right away; first install the shelves so that the cage stands on its own.

Horizontal shelves are assembled using furniture confirmants; they are also called Euroscrews. In ready-made kits, the holes for them are already drilled; you just need to insert the confirmant into these holes and screw it in tightly using a hex key, then cover the head with a plastic plug.

It is better to screw in the confirmands manually with a wrench; if you use a screwdriver, you can overtighten and break the thread.

Now it's time to firmly attach the cage and shelves to the base and top lid. For these purposes, so-called minifixes are used; they are something like a “tablet” with an eccentric inside.

The diameter of the furniture minifixes is 16mm, when you install the vertical posts on the pins, the head of the pin will be visible in the side hole of the post. A minifix is ​​inserted into this hole and turned clockwise.

Thus, the two elements are tightly pulled together. In this case, the technology is the same both for fastening the base and for fixing the top cover.

Step #3: back wall

The back wall in such cabinets is made of painted hardboard (dense fiberboard). The sheets are cut on machines, so there is no doubt about their shapes, the problem is that the back wall is composite, that is, it is assembled from several sheets, so assembly takes place in 3 stages:

1. First, you need to check how smoothly you assembled the box. To do this, we use the old-fashioned method - we measure the diagonals. The size of both diagonals should be the same. If something is wrong, check the tightness of the minifixes; usually small deviations are caused by uneven tightening;
2. Now call an assistant and ask him to hold the box in the desired position (so that it does not skew in any direction). At this time, you yourself apply the bottom panel of the hardboard to the back wall and nail it to the racks with nails or screw it with small self-tapping screws;
3. Next, put on the plastic H-shaped connection profile on installed panel and mount the next one in exactly the same way. The minimum step for fixing the panels on the racks is 100 mm, well, this is at your discretion, for example, in Soviet cabinets the back wall was fastened with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 mm.

Step No. 4: installation of door guides

Before installing the guides under sliding doors, the base of the cabinet should be set clearly to the horizon, with level control. This can be done using adjustable legs.

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Equipment. Budget models use roller doors supported on a bottom rail, with rollers running along it. Standing on top W-shaped profiles controlling the movement of the door leaf.
	Attaching the upper profiles. All profiles come without mounting holes; you will need to drill them with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm. Then screw the profile with self-tapping screws to the top lid of the cabinet.
	We put stoppers. Stoppers are needed so that the door rollers are fixed in them and the doors do not move apart spontaneously. You just need to take pliers and insert the lock into the groove of the profile.
	Lower profile fastening. The instructions are similar: drill holes with a diameter of 4 mm and attach the profile to the base with self-tapping screws (the stoppers should already be in place).

Many people are familiar with the eternal problem of lack of space: everything is always out of place, the purchased cabinets are insufficient or do not fit. If you are facing these difficulties, it is time to customize the furniture for your room so that it perfectly suits your personal needs and requirements. Making furniture to order is too expensive, but you can assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, saving a lot of money. In this article we will give you detailed instructions with drawings and assembly diagrams.

The main housing in Russia is small Khrushchev-type apartments, in which everyone square meter on account. Old Soviet wardrobes are very bulky and roomy - there are useless legs on the bottom, a dust collector on top and empty space, which is usually filled with a mezzanine. Our homemade wardrobe is free of these disadvantages, because it is located either in a niche or the entire height of the room, thus using every centimeter of space.

• The main advantage is spaciousness and compactness. The useful volume of space is 2.5 times greater than that of conventional furniture.
• Sliding doors are why we love sliding wardrobes. They are very practical and do not take up much space.
• Beautiful design - the ability to make doors from a mirror, frosted glass, apply sandblasting patterns, stickers and use any other material to decorate sliding doors.
• Possibility to zone a room using a partition from a closet. We also note that the use of full-length mirrors will have a good effect on the space of the room, making it larger and brighter.

The main disadvantage is the price: if you buy a wardrobe to order or in a store, it will not cost you at all. However, it is quite possible to make a wardrobe with your own hands, the main thing is not to panic and follow the planned work plan.

Cabinet design

Before assembling the wardrobe, you need to finally decide on its drawing and location. Everything is individual here, and there can be no specific advice, just find a good place for the closet. This could be a closet, a niche in the wall, or just a corner in the room.

If free place is not limited, then choose the size of the cabinet according to the golden ratio rule, according to which the ratio of height and length should be 1.62.

Thus, if your ceiling is 2.5 m high, then it would be optimal to choose a cabinet length of 154 cm (250/1.62=154.3). Standard depth furniture parts Usually it is 60 cm, you don’t need to do more, otherwise it will be inconvenient to get distant things from the upper shelves. Also note that all internal parts must be at least 10 cm narrower due to the width of the doors.

When you decide on the installation location, you need to draw up drawings. Do detailed diagram cabinet and all shelves with dimensions on paper or on a computer (choose the Basis Cabinet or Excel program). Specialized programs With one button they will be able to give you the quantity and dimensions of the required parts for cutting, which is very convenient.

When modeling interior shelves, you can’t do without your significant other, otherwise you’ll have to redo everything later. Modeling is one of the most important stages, which should be devoted to a separate topic, so now we will only briefly present our wardrobe project with dimensions.

Drawing of a built-in wardrobe in a niche

This scheme The wardrobe is designed to be created in a closet with a beam at the top. Therefore, mirrored doors will not go all the way to the ceiling.

Filling

When creating shelves, we will use regular boards laminated chipboard light color. To fasten them we will use metal corners and self-tapping screws.

After calculating the materials for the cabinet, we bought the necessary parts and ordered cutting and edge processing on site:

1. 3 parts 150x60 cm (horizontal);
2. 2 parts 200x60 cm (vertical for walls);
3. 1 vertical partition 135x60 cm;
4. 3 vertical partitions for shelf compartments 32.5x60 cm;
5. 1 horizontal sheet 150x30 cm for the shelf behind the beam;
6. 3 partitions for a shelf behind a beam 30x40 cm.

The main thing here is not to make mistakes in the calculations, so before ordering parts, carefully study the drawing and calculate all the gaps.

Build process

Now about how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands.

• First, we laid the 150x60 piece on the floor and attached two side boards to it. By the way, if you have a plinth, it is better to remove it, otherwise you will have to cut the walls at an angle. Fastening took place using dowels to the wall and metal corners to the bottom board with self-tapping screws. Some people use plastic furniture corners for shelves, but they are not so reliable: a child will stand on the shelf and it will collapse.
• Then we assembled the internal shelves separately: we connected 2 horizontal boards 150x60 (which will be above the bar) with a vertical piece 135x60 and three small transverse compartments 32.5x60.
• The finished compartments were secured to the cabinet in the same way, using corners and screws. If you have access to the side walls, then you can use a Euroscrew for fastening - a popular furniture fastener that is used for tables and shelves.
• Now all that remains is to make the upper shelves; we also prepared them separately from the outside. We attached three vertical partitions 30x40 every 50 centimeters to a horizontal board 150x30.

Note! If you are making a cabinet with a full-length top lid, you may have problems with its fastening. In this case, leave required height, so that you can crawl with a hexagon from above or attach the cover to the corners from the inside.

As a result, we got 2 large compartments for hangers, where all outerwear, shirts, dresses, etc. will fit. Then there is 1 large shelf on one side, and the other side is divided into 3 small compartments. Above there is one wide shelf, which is divided into 3 narrow compartments against the wall. And at the very top there is a shelf for unnecessary things. Everything is shown in the photo below.

Door installation

Now about the most difficult part - the wardrobe. In order not to make a mistake with the size, it is better to buy them after assembling the frame. You can watch the assembly video mirror door from profiles:

It is not recommended to make the width of sliding doors more than 1 meter, so if the length of the cabinet is 154 cm, divide it in half: each door, roughly speaking, is 77 cm + an overlap of 2-4 cm so that there is no gap.
Calculation of wardrobe doors

Regarding the height of the doors, it is important to consider the height of the lining and wheels.

For example:

1. 250 centimeters - ceiling height (or opening);
2. 1.6 cm - thickness of laminated chipboard linings on top and bottom;
3. The gap at the top and bottom is 1.5 cm for the wheels;

Total: 250-1.6-1.6-1.5-1.5 = 243.8 cm - the height of our doors. You should have side handle profiles of this height. The clearance figures may vary, it all depends on the profiles used, so read the instructions from their manufacturer.

Sliding door design

• • Since we are attaching the doors to the widened doorway of the pantry, we need to make a laminated chipboard gasket around the perimeter.
  • Now let's cut the required length of the door guides. They should be equal to the width of the cabinet inside and fit freely between the walls. They must be secured strictly level and parallel to each other. First, we attach the upper rail to self-tapping screws with a press washer, then the lower one. Be sure to insert the stoppers into the bottom guide in closed position doors.

• When the guides are level, you can insert the door. The far door is first inserted into the top track and then lifted to fit into the bottom. The front door is inserted in the same way - first insert the top, then the bottom.
• To adjust the doors, tighten the special bolt at the bottom with a hex key. If you tighten the bolt, the door will rise, if you unscrew it, it will lower. If the doors are parallel and adjusted, then everything will run like clockwork, but if they are installed incorrectly, then sometimes the upper rollers can pop out.
• At this point, the installation of the wardrobe is completed; now you can hang hooks, secure the hanging rod and, if necessary, add drawers.

To finally figure out how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands, the video lesson will tell you all the details during installation:

Conclusion

By doing all the work yourself, you will save 2-3 times more money than ordering a similar cabinet in a store, and you can also make it several times faster if desired. The main thing is to be careful and calculate every action before starting work. As they say, measure twice, cut once.

The sliding wardrobe in the domestic market has gained a leading position among cabinets of any design. This type of furniture has become a godsend for modern interior. It allows you to rationally use the free space in the room. The popularity of furniture is explained by a number of advantages: firstly, it is impeccable versatility, secondly, having a compact size, the cabinet has excellent capacity, thirdly, it has long term services and high quality execution. When making furniture, only environmentally friendly materials are used. natural materials and reliable fittings. Interesting design solutions allow you to create attractive furniture, highlighting it individual style. Such positive characteristics make this cabinet ideal for a modern interior. It will fit even into a small room. This article will tell you how to properly assemble a wardrobe.

Tools for work

Before assembling the wardrobe, you need to prepare the tools for assembly. For this you will need:

1. Level and tape measure.
2. Glue for fixing the pile.
3. Drill for making holes in drywall or wooden surface, screwing screws.
4. A hacksaw for metal and wood for adjusting cabinet elements to the appropriate dimensions.
5. Hammer for driving in dowels.
6. Hammer for making holes in concrete and brick.
7. Self-tapping screws and dowels.

These tools will become real helpers in your work.

Main stages of the assembly process

To make it easier and faster to navigate the question of how to assemble a wardrobe, an assembly diagram is included in the package of the purchased product. You should check for its presence. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the quality of each element, strip and parts, make sure there are no cracks, swelling or other defects. When transporting the set, precautions must be taken: the furniture must be firmly secured in transport, and a flat road should be chosen for transportation.

First stage. Installation location and marking.

Before assembling the wardrobe, it is important to understand the assembly algorithm. If it is planned that the furniture will take up space in the corner of the room, then the total length of the set is measured from it. To do this, you need to measure the length of the mezzanine. Next, draw a vertical line that will display the boundaries future design. To get a straight line, you need to make several marks.

After this, you should measure a vertical line. At its level, a bar will be placed in the same position, separating the compartment for things with horizontal shelves from the compartment where the hangers are located. To do this, you need to measure the perimeter of the ceiling and measure the distance from the right or left border of the cabinet. Next, the height of the shelves, the edge of the future structure and the vertical stand are measured on two vertical lines.

Second phase. Installation

The kit always includes instructions on how to assemble the wardrobe. After reading it carefully, you can carry out the second stage of work - installation
fastenings

Fasteners are attached to the drawn lines, and marks are made using a pencil for future holes where dowels are driven. The fastenings are secured to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Since the main task is the correct assembly of furniture, you should know that if profiles are used to frame the edges of some elements, it is more rational to use them at the next stage.

Stage three. Fastening a vertical rack, mezzanine, shelves, false panel and side wall

Since you have to assemble the wardrobe yourself, you should be very careful at every stage. The vertical stand is fixed with screws to the fastenings. In order to install the mezzanine, you need to draw a pencil horizontal line where it will be located. A hole is drilled on this line to secure the parts. After that, self-tapping screws and dowels are driven in there, the fasteners are mounted on the wall, and a mezzanine is installed on them, which is fixed with self-tapping screws.

The distance from the floor surface to the ceiling is measured with maximum accuracy. The side wall is adjusted to the size of the main structure and securely fixed with fasteners.

Then on the side wall and vertical rack marks are made on the cabinet. In these places, two fasteners are mounted, after which you can install the shelves, securing them with self-tapping screws.

Where there will be hangers, you should hang the tube for them, having previously secured them with appropriate fasteners. The tube is cut to the required size, inserted and also secured.

After this, marks are made with a pencil at the mounting points on the wall surface. A hole is drilled in each false panel into which dowels are driven. Then they can be attached to the marked places with self-tapping screws.

Fourth stage. Door assembly

Before assembling the wardrobe doors, it is necessary to determine the length of the guides and adjust them to the appropriate size. They are attached to false panels on the ceiling and floor using self-tapping screws. After assembling the frame, work begins on installing the door. Each model has its own sliding system, which has its own individual characteristics. For a cabinet, it is better to choose a system that does not require special equipment. When ordering the manufacture of a door from a specialized furniture company, you do not need to cut the sheets, attach them to the guides and adjust them according to the dimensions of the rails.

So, before assembling the wardrobe doors, you need to:

1. Attach the rails to the finished door. The rollers should move, so there is no need to tighten them too tightly.
2. Insert the door alternately into both guides: upper and lower.
3. After adjusting the angle and height of the inclination, glue the pile on the sides of the sliding door. This action will allow it to close and open quietly.
4. After installing the doors, you should make sure that they are easy to operate and do not creak, that the fittings are reliable and that the shelves are securely fastened.

After all stages of the work have been completed, you can call your family and friends to evaluate the result.

How to assemble a built-in wardrobe

For people who do not have sufficient experience in making furniture with their own hands, the idea of ​​assembling furniture may seem utopian. Many apartment owners place the structure in a niche in order to save space. It's pretty rational decision, especially in small spaces.

Before assembling a built-in wardrobe, you need to choose its type, since a niche is usually filled with two types of wardrobes: built-in and full-size. The first type is a structure that is built in, the second type is a regular cabinet made according to individual order. If there is a niche in the room, it is better to use it for a wardrobe. This solution significantly saves room space and financial expenses for installation work.

Before assembling the wardrobe, you should put the niche in order: remove switches, sockets, and cover the walls with wallpaper or paint; if desired, you can use plastic panels. After this, the material for the door is selected: mirror, decorative plastic or glass. Because the standard height ceilings are more than three meters, it is more convenient to place mezzanines on the upper part of the niche. The most commonly used doors are hinged or sliding doors. Sometimes they choose an accordion door.

A built-in wardrobe can be installed fully or partially; it has no surfaces, but is equipped with the necessary fittings: shelves, holders, racks, baskets, etc. These elements can be easily attached to the walls of the room and the wardrobe can be fully used. The only drawback is that it cannot be moved.

When installing the door, be aware that the floor surface may be uneven. For this reason, you may need to adjust the wheels that move the doors. The wheels should not be adjusted very often as they may become unusable.

You can also put a cabinet wardrobe in a niche, which contains all the elements of the standard model: ceiling, floor, back wall and side panels.

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