No construction project of any scale is complete without a high-quality concrete mixer. The device is not cheap, but it is periodically necessary at the dacha or in the homestead, so many people think about buying it even in cases where the question of global construction is not at issue. You can get out of this situation by building a high-quality concrete mixer yourself. Today we’ll look at several options on how to make this easier and cheaper.
Concrete mixer. Why is it needed?
Homemade concrete mixer with his own hands reveals a lot of prospects for working with concrete and not only with it, but with all building mixtures. By spending some time building a device of any complexity level, you can get reliable design, which will help out not only its owner, but also its neighbors more than once.
It is useful for preparing mortar when laying brick, foam block, stone, and for building foundations different types, for the manufacture of decorative elements and landscape design, for example, garden paths. The price of the most inexpensive concrete mixer is about 8 thousand rubles.
Prices for concrete mixers
On average it will have 20-25 liters of batch, and the power can be from 150 W. Not the best choice even for periodic use, especially for construction. The mixing drum in these concrete mixers is belt driven by an electric motor and is the simplest design you can buy.
More advanced and productive models are in more serious price category. About 22 thousand piglets for a concrete mixer with a rim driven mixing drum. Its volume will be from 120 to 140 liters, which is approximately 80 kg of the finished mixture. This is not yet a professional model, but it can already be used for small-scale construction. Now that we are guided by the prices and characteristics of ready-made concrete mixers, we can consider options for building it ourselves, and the design can be chosen depending on how many cubes we need in a ready-mixed concrete mixer.
Choosing a concrete mixer design
For a dacha or personal plot, everyone will be able to choose a device of such productivity that they need it, and not overpay for extra cubic meters of ground air. This is the main advantage of building a concrete mixer yourself. The second advantage is that you can use literally everything you have at hand and build a concrete mixing plant with minimal costs in terms of money and time.
That is why the choice of the device concept remains with the owner. We publish photos of the most interesting and simple devices, but you can always complicate the design.
Required design elements
Be that as it may, any concrete mixer must have the following elements in its design so that it can minimally perform its functions:
How to make a frame and select an electric motor
The frame and frame of a concrete mixer can be made of wood, but there are many questions about the practicality of such a design. As a temporary option, you can use 15x15 timber, but whether this makes sense is up to each individual to judge. The optimal option for durability and strength is a welded frame made from angle or rolled steel of any profile. We have presented several drawings in the photo as an example.
If you decide to install an electric motor, usually you use a motor from a household washing machine. Empirically, it has long been calculated that 25-30 revolutions per minute at the outlet of the gearbox is quite sufficient for high-quality mixing of any mixture. The electric motor from a washing machine can provide good torque, the motor is quite durable, especially if it is used in a gentle operating mode. For more productive and high-volume concrete mixers, three-phase electric motors are used.
Mandatory geometric parameters for a cylindrical type concrete mixer - the angle of inclination of the main axis is about 40-45 degrees. In this case, a folding mechanism is needed to unload the finished mixture. There are options for homemade concrete mixers made from a barrel with a horizontal mixing drum. In this case, a hinged hatch is installed in the barrel, which closes tightly during the preparation of the concrete mixture, and opens during unloading, while ready mix falls into a container prepared in advance.
There are many designs and types of homemade concrete mixers. The main thing when designing and building it is patience and the ability to use basic tools and welding, which is what we wish for you. Good luck to everyone!
If you have own house or a dacha, then you are often faced with the need to carry out construction work of one scale or another.
No construction can do without concrete - be it a gazebo, fence, terrace or path.
If you have planned several large buildings, then you can place an order for ready-mixed concrete - it will be delivered directly to your site. The construction team usually does this.
But this option has the following disadvantages:
- high price of concrete mixture;
- you will have to purchase concrete the volume of a concrete mixer, i.e. several cubes. Not every construction project requires this amount of concrete;
- dense residential buildings may not allow passage of heavy equipment.
There is another option - rent a concrete mixer, but frequent use it will be more expensive than purchasing it as property.
Due to all of the above, having your own concrete mixer is the best option. It is quite feasible to make such a necessary unit with your own hands.
Advantages of a homemade concrete mixer
A self-made concrete mixer has the following advantages:
- It will have the shape you need;
- Such a unit has a low cost, since it can be made from material that is at hand;
- A homemade concrete mixer is easy to maintain and repair;
- You can be proud of her in front of your neighbors and friends.
Before making a concrete mixer, it is better to try out the purchased option firsthand - offer your help to your neighbors who have an industrial copy, or use a one-time rental. This will help you understand the principle of its operation and choose the appropriate parameters.
Big size doesn't mean the best option. Such units are very energy-consuming. Both small and large containers limit the amount of concrete produced in 1 cycle. As a result, the choice of tank parameters should be approached very responsibly.
General technology for creating concrete mixers
To make your own concrete mixer, you will need a sturdy cylinder-shaped container, a sturdy frame structure, a turning mechanism to unload the finished concrete, and a gear motor.
Don't be scared by this number necessary materials– many of them can be bought at low prices or found in the garage.
Instructions for making a manual concrete mixer
You will need:
- metal barrel, capacity 100 - 200 l;
- steel corner or profile for the frame;
- two used bearings;
- line segment metal pipe for axle and handle.
The tools you will need are a grinder and welding machine.
- We cut a rectangular hole in the barrel, forming a gap along the joint. We weld a corner sill on the inner surface and line it with rubber to seal it.
- The lid will swing outwards, so it is necessary to install strong hinges and a reliable lock. The existing filler hole does not need to be welded; the standard cap is quite reliable.
- Inside we weld several blades made of sheet steel 2-3 mm thick for mixing.
- We weld bearings in the center of the side parts, screw on the hubs or insert a steel axle.
- We fix the barrel on the frame, weld a handle at one end, like a well handle. The concrete mixer is ready!
Electric concrete mixer
The essence of such a concrete mixer is a stationary tank and active mixing blades.
Such a unit has both pros and cons.
The advantage of an electric concrete mixer is that it does not require making a sealed hole, as in the manual version.
The downside is the need to install oil seals on the drive axis.
The tank is made of a 200 liter barrel, onto which the walls are welded. The upper part is covered with bars. A profiled pipe is used for the base. The tank is firmly attached. The initial components of the solution are loaded from above, the finished concrete is drained thanks to a shutter with a rubber gasket.
Note!
The mixing shaft is made from a car crank analogue, the blades are made from angles and steel sheets welded to them, 3 mm thick. At the point where the shaft exits the gearbox there is an oil seal.
The engine is used from crane. Its power is 5.5 kW. The gearbox is from there. The motor has 3 phases and the ability to change the direction of rotation.
A tray is placed under the working concrete mixer to collect the water that initially flows out. It is poured back into the concrete mixer.
In conclusion, we note that the self-created concrete mixer better than analogues from China. We hope that this article will help you do this necessary thing yourself.
DIY concrete mixer photo
Note!
A self-assembled concrete mixer helps save time and makes heavy work the job is easy. From the article you will learn what and how to make this unit yourself.
Concrete mixer: what is it for and how to assemble?
Why do you need a homemade concrete mixer? The title itself already has the answer. This is a unit that is designed to mix sand and cement with water to produce concrete. Why concrete is needed, every schoolchild knows about this today. You cannot do without this material if you are going to build a house, or, say, improve the territory - so that there is a clean yard and smooth paths.
Of course, you can arm yourself with a trough and shovel and make concrete by hand. But why do you need Sisyphean labor when you can use a special machine for this? There is no point in buying a concrete mixer if you do not intend to take on construction contracts. It is much more interesting and economical to assemble it yourself. Moreover, an old two-hundred-liter barrel will do for this purpose.
The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of concrete.
The device you end up with is reliable and easy to use. All you have to do is pour the ingredients into the drum in certain proportions and add water. The ratio of components depends on what you need the solution for. Usually, to get high-quality concrete, take one part of cement and add to it one part of sand and screenings (small pebbles). It is possible, and in some cases even necessary, to replace the components with a sand-gravel mixture (SGM).
Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel - advantages and disadvantages
An undoubted advantage in making a concrete mixer with your own hands will be a significant saving of money on purchasing a factory model. Besides, have you seen the equipment that most sellers offer? Even if you have an extra thousand and twenty rubles, you are unlikely to want to give them for a Chinese product of dubious quality. And then, if the Chinese can do it, then why are you worse? It is not the gods who burn the pots. Your unit will serve faithfully not only to you, but also to your grandchildren.
The disadvantage here will be, especially if you are not a technician by training, the lack of experience in the manufacture of such mechanisms. But if you are persistent and love to tinker, you will certainly succeed. Fortunately, the necessary parts are literally lying under your feet. Of course, they won’t come to you on their own. You will have to rummage through a pile of scrap metal in a garage or even a junkyard.
But don't be so scared. To make a concrete mixer at home you will need: a container (in your case old barrel), in which the process of mixing the solution will take place, an axis of rotation, an electric motor (if you are not going to rotate the drum by hand) and a frame for the base on which all this will be attached. As you can see, all ingenious is simple. You will learn how to prepare and what tools you will need to realize your idea in the next section of this article.
Preparation and tools
Before you start working on a concrete mixer, you need to make a drawing or at least a sketch of the future project and prepare the workspace. A garage or shed is best suited for this. The main thing is that electricity is supplied to it, because in this case you will need power tools. And the work with metal itself is quite noisy and dirty. Agree that a comfortable apartment is not the place where you can engage in such creativity.
Well, the drawing is ready, and you have prepared the place: you have removed everything that is not relevant. Now let's see what tools you need. If you don’t know this craft and will assemble the entire structure with bolts, you won’t need a welding machine. But you definitely can’t do without a drill. You will also need a set of screwdrivers and a hacksaw. And, of course, the main part of the future concrete mixer is a two-hundred-liter barrel.
It would be great if the bottom of the container was non-removable. Otherwise, it may simply fall off during the process of mixing the solution. The frame can be made from metal corner. It is more convenient than pipes when connecting with bolts. You can install a gasoline engine or a motor from a drill-mixer as a motor that sets the torque. The main thing is that its power is at least 1.3 kW. And don’t forget to think about and install paddles inside the barrel for the most effective mixing of the components.
Important: the top lid of the barrel must have reliable fastening, otherwise you risk covering the entire area with concrete.
In addition, even at the development and preparation stage, think about what kind of future concrete mixer you want to see - mobile on wheels or stationary. Then you won’t have to hastily adjust the drawings and make changes to almost finished design. If you have everything ready, then you can start the most interesting part - making a concrete mixer with your own hands.
How to make a concrete mixer - let's start making it
Let's look at the key stages of the work.
- We assemble the frame of the future unit. It must be durable, because it will have to withstand enormous loads. For the base, a 130 mm steel angle is best suited. Since we decided to do without a welding machine, it wouldn’t hurt to tell us which bolts to choose for assembling the frame. The best option There will be bolts with a diameter of 27 mm. The angle of inclination of the barrel to the base should be 35 degrees. If you have not found a suitable motor, you can make the drive manual. Of course, you will have to make some effort, but it will still be better than mixing concrete with a shovel in a trough.
- Before placing the barrel on the gearbox (a device that converts the high angular speed of rotation of the input shaft into a lower one on the output shaft), you need to attach, say, a ring gear (a hardened steel disk with teeth) from a Volga engine to its bottom. Practice has shown that it is optimally suited for this purpose: it is made of hardened metal and has teeth on the outside.
- If there is welding, then attaching the crown is as easy as shelling pears. But we decided to assemble the concrete mixer without using a welding machine. Therefore, we will attach the crown to the bottom of the barrel with bolts. Turn the barrel upside down and attach the crown to the bottom. Make marks on the bottom of the barrel with a core (a special rod with a sharpened end). Simply insert the core into the hole in the crown with the sharp end and hit the blunt end with a hammer. Then remove the crown and drill holes using a drill strictly according to the marks made with the core. Place the crown back on the bottom of the barrel so that the holes line up. Insert the bolts and tighten the nuts on them using wrenches.
- We put the gearbox on the frame. We do the same as with the crown. We mark the place for the holes on the frame with a core, drill, bolt the gearbox to the frame, and install the barrel itself on it, first not forgetting to make blades in it in order to. Making them is also easy. You can simply fasten three corners along the length of the barrel with bolts at an equal distance from each other. We replace the small gear pulley with a suitable gear. This is what will set the heavy container of concrete in motion. In order not to suffer for a long time and not to reinvent the wheel, the small gear can be taken from the Bendix starter (Bendix is the starter armature shaft) of the same Volga.
The most important part of the whole machine is the engine. It must be securely attached to the bracket on the frame.
To tip a barrel of concrete, a steering wheel is suitable, not just a handle. Making it is not that difficult. Essentially, you can take a sleeve (a piece of pipe) and screw the rods into it radially. Then put it on the additional gearbox and secure it. But if such a design causes difficulties in developing drawings, then you can simply take the prepared solution from the container with a shovel. Just remember to turn it off first and wait for it to stop.
Even though you will assemble the apparatus yourself to help mix concrete, this does not mean that you can neglect basic safety rules. Yes, they have already set everyone’s teeth on edge, and yet, traumatology statistics show that not everyone follows them. Remember them well, or better yet, write them in bright paint on your concrete mixer:
- Do not, under any circumstances, climb inside a spinning barrel.
- If you have assembled a unit with an electric drive, make sure that the power cord is in good condition.
- Keep small children away from even a non-working machine.
- If you have made a mobile structure, put a support under the wheels before you start using it.
- When mixing concrete, strong vibrations occur. Therefore, monitor the condition of the screw connections and tighten them in time.
- If possible, wear work gloves or gloves. Cement can cause an allergic reaction to the skin of your hands.
- And never leave switched on equipment unattended.
Remember that you are responsible for your health and the safety of those around you! So, making a concrete mixer with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing in this matter is the presence of everyone necessary tools, materials and, of course, desire. But you will have an inexpensive and great tool, which may be useful to you more than once. By the way, you can rent out your concrete mixer to your neighbors and get a good increase in your salary from this.
To improve a summer cottage, cement mortar or concrete are often needed. Craftsmen are faced with a choice - to knead by hand (which is difficult and ineffective, since the solution hardens quickly) or to purchase an industrial concrete mixer, which is unjustified for irregular work. Therefore, many summer residents prefer to make a concrete mixer with their own hands, as it is simple and practical.
Principles of mixing concrete
There are several mixing options mortar in a concrete mixer. Namely:
- Gravity method.
- Forced-mechanical.
- Forced vibration.
- Combined gravitational-mechanical.
The easiest way to prepare a concrete solution is to mix it with a shovel in a stationary trough. The most unjustified and low-quality method. Not only does the solution itself quickly harden, but it is also problematic to mix the mixture until smooth.
Sometimes craftsmen stir the solution using a drill with a mixer attachment in a bucket. This option is somewhat better, but has its own very serious drawbacks. First of all, the drill is not designed for long-term continuous operation, with all the ensuing consequences. In addition, the technology of this type of mixing requires constant rotation and movement of the tool in the mixture. It's unreliable, difficult and tedious.
Gravity mixing
With the gravitational method, the tub with the solution is loosened or tipped over, and the solution mixes itself. That is, the components move independently in the container under the influence of gravity. The quality of the finished product is not very good and large volumes are difficult to achieve. However, many masters in living conditions This mixing option is used.
The advantage of this type of mixing is the simplicity of the concrete mixer design. Therefore, devices of this type are often created in garages, cottages and small businesses.
Forced-mechanical
The forced-mechanical method is the simplest and most common. His distinguishing feature- This is a stationary container. The components are most often mixed mechanically in a drum. The drum can be horizontal or vertical. The essence of this method is clearly revealed by the example of using a drill in a bucket.
With limited volumes, this method may be justified, but it has its own characteristics:
Combined type of mixing
Many homemade concrete mixers made with their own hands use a combined method. It simultaneously combines the previous two methods and has a number of advantages:
- There is no need to tightly seal the rotation units, since there is no contact with the solution. The drum is not closed at the top.
- Parts of this type of structure last longer because the mechanism is reliable and simple.
- The composition of the component can be anything, including gravel, crushed stone, expanded clay, and so on.
Vibration method
IN Lately The vibration method of preparing concrete is gaining popularity. This method allows high-quality mixing of large volumes of mixture and is used in cases where it is necessary to produce a reinforced concrete part with excellent and precise operational parameters.
In principle, vibration mixing can mix ingredients almost perfectly. The only limitation is the preparation of a “heavy” solution. To use this type of mixing, significant energy consumption is required. About twenty liters of mixture requires a vibrator power of 1.3 kilowatts. At home, instead of a drive and gearbox, a very powerful hammer drill is used. There is no need to press the cartridge, and the vibrations should be independent.
Drawings and designs of concrete mixers
Before starting assembly, you need to prepare a working tool, decide on materials and prepare a container of the required volume. It is not recommended to select small containers, since the solution in it may harden before the required time, and if the prepared mixture is not enough, then the whole process will have to be repeated all over again. The optimal capacity of the container is two hundred liters.
The general requirement is strength, reliability and stability of the structure. It is necessary to manufacture such structures as responsibly as possible, since the slightest miscalculation or carelessness will lead to breakdown or even injury to the worker.
The simplest concrete mixer from a can
If you save electricity and time, you can assemble a manual concrete mixer from a regular milk can. The entire assembly process takes several hours and the most crucial moment is welding the frame. With a little patience, simple gravity concrete mixing equipment is ready.
To make this concrete mixer you will need a can or other similar container, several pipes or thick rods.
Despite the simplicity of the design, even dry screed concentrate can be mixed in the can. The axis inside the can cuts the mixture as it rotates.
Procedure:
The coupling can be omitted, thereby further simplifying the design. Instead of couplings, you can cut out arcuate recesses and place the axle in them. The rotation will be uneven and squeaky, but it will knead well. In one cycle of work in a forty-liter can, about three buckets of solution are obtained. Sometimes a barrel is used instead of a can. In this case, the problem arises of how to fix the lid. This issue can be solved in an original way if the handles are attached to a barrel without a lid at different levels. One end of the handle is near the bottom, the other is near the top. As a result, the container is placed at an obtuse angle relative to the surface of the earth and the solution does not spill out during rotation. But the quality of the kneading with this method suffers.
Concrete mixer from a barrel
A homemade concrete mixer made from a barrel can replace factory model and mix evenly good mixture. All materials needed for assembly can be found in the garage or summer cottage. The unit can be either manual or mechanical.
Scroll necessary details for assembly:
The tools you need are a grinder to cut metal and a welding machine to firmly connect parts.
After preparatory work The question of how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands is no longer a question.
First, the barrel is centered and placed on the axle. Then they are designed internal elements, which will help mix the concrete.
Using a drill or welding device, two holes are drilled at the top and bottom of the barrel. A metal axle with a diameter of thirty millimeters is pulled through them, and this structure is tightly welded. Thus, the shaft and the tub are securely attached to each other.
A rectangle is cut out in the center of the barrel along the long edge. It will be a hatch for filling the components of the solution. Approximate Dimensions the hatch is approximately ninety by thirty centimeters. If the hatch is small, it will be inconvenient to use. And if it is made too large, the strength of the structure will decrease.
Blades are constructed from a metal square and mounted in a barrel. One side is welded to the wall, and the other to the axle. For good mixing, four or five blades, evenly spaced inside the barrel, are enough.
The rectangle obtained from cutting out the hatch is welded to the hinges that are attached to the barrel. The result should be a lockable hatch. After that, a latch or latch is attached to the hatch cover. The main task of the lid is not to open while the device is operating.
Then the frame is welded. A second length of fifty millimeters is welded to the long channel. The same is done with the second support.
A pipe is welded to the other edge of the channel into which the concrete mixer axle will be inserted.
Then, when the metal axle fits into the bushings, retaining rings are welded on both ends. Their role is played by thick metal washers.
After which the steering wheel is welded to one of the edges of the axle.
If an electric model is being assembled, then it is necessary to assemble and connect the corresponding unit, consisting of a motor and a drive system.
Tricks for using homemade devices
According to the principle of operation, homemade concrete mixers are similar to industrial designs and perform the same functions. But to achieve comfort, home devices need to be used a little differently.
Tips for working:
When assembling and operating home-made structures, one must not forget about compliance with safety precautions. This applies to the rules for working with power tools and conventional equipment. Following the usual simple instructions will prevent unpleasant situations and avoid injury.
It’s hard to even imagine any kind of construction without technological processes using cement mortars. And for the owners of their own country house, with their constant state of “permanent” repairs and landscaping, concreting in general is a very popular operation - either garden paths need to be poured, then a foundation for a gazebo, then a blind area needs to be renovated, or a fence needs to be put up... In a word, literally on every each step requires the production of concrete - the only difference is the scale of the event.
Many individual builders prefer not to bother with mixing the mortar themselves - this can be avoided if there is a reinforced concrete plant or other enterprise nearby that provides services for the production of concrete and its delivery to the work site. But, firstly, it costs a lot of money. Secondly, this opportunity is not available everywhere. And thirdly, it does not always make sense to resort to such services for reasons of the small scale of the construction or repair task - it will either be simply ridiculous or extremely unprofitable. It’s easier to make the required amount of solution yourself. This, of course, can be done manually, but it is better to purchase (rent) a concrete mixer or show yourself as a real owner: for the future, make yourself a concrete mixer with your own hands.
The article will discuss several homemade models concrete mixers - from the simplest to those that are not much different from the samples presented in stores.
A short excursion - what types of concrete mixers are there?
By and large, you can cook without any equipment at all. Some craftsmen even like to work “the old fashioned way”, mixing nt with sand and other components (if necessary), and then gradually adding the required amount of water. For this purpose, large containers with low sides, factory-made or even home-made, knocked together from boards and lined with thin metal, are used.
Mixing by hand - how much time do you have to do this? Some people prefer to do without containers altogether, simply preparing the solution on a prepared, level area. However, in any case, the procedure of mixing first dry components with a shovel or hoe, and then with water, is a very labor-intensive process that takes a lot of effort at the preliminary stage, before concreting begins. And if the work is planned to be quite large-scale, then this approach will not justify itself.
Prices for concrete mixers Vikhr
concrete mixer Whirlwind
Construction mixers or drill attachments - they are more suitable for dry building mixtures or composite polymer materials. Sand and cement for them is already a rather difficult “test”, and if there is still a need to add gravel, crushed stone or expanded clay of a large fraction, then the mixer or drill can be safely put aside: not only will you not achieve a high-quality, homogeneous mixture, but also and there is a high risk of overheating the gearbox or electric drive of the device.
Concrete mixers (concrete mixers) cope with this task, which differ not only in size, capacity and drive power, but also in the principle of their operation.
Forced mixing principle
Forced principle - the components of the solution are mixed in a stationary container. It is carried out due to the circular movements of the shaft with blades connected to a mechanical drive. (Work with construction mixer or a drill with an attachment can also be safely attributed to the forced kneading principle).
The installation layout may vary. Thus, the snare drum can be a vertically located cylinder small height, in which the paddle blades rotate on a vertical axis (as in the figure above).
Another option is when the container itself is located horizontally, and the shaft with blades is also oriented in a horizontal plane. Below is circuit diagram such a concrete mixer - who knows, perhaps it will serve as a prototype for someone to make on their own.
In the drawing the numbers indicate:
1 – drum body, in which the solution is mixed.
2 – a frame on which all components of the unit are mounted.
3 – Electric drive. In this case, with such dimensions of the mixer, the optimal power would be about 5 ÷ 6 kW.
4 – monitoring and control elements: power switches, indicator lamps.
5 – Bottom hatch (gate) – for unloading the finished solution into a container placed below.
6 – lever for opening the shutter.
7 – safety grid installed during kneading.
8 – gearbox for transmitting rotation from the electric drive to the working shaft.
9 – protective cover belt drive.
10 – safety clutch.
11 – a working shaft with blades installed on it for mixing the solution.
Unloading of the finished solution can be organized according to a different principle - the working drum is mounted on the frame not rigidly, but hingedly. When mixing concrete, it is locked in the working position. And in order to remove the finished solution, a container removed from the stopper, and with the help of a special lever it rotates in the suspension axles. The solution is unloaded into the substituted container through the upper loading hatch.
Another scheme is somewhat simpler, with a lever for tipping the container Forced action concrete mixers make it possible to achieve very high levels of solution homogeneity. They are actively used in industrial conditions, in construction, in private practice. However, they are not without quite significant drawbacks:
- In a working container, it is often impossible to avoid the creation of “dead zones” - along the walls, especially in the corners. It is not easy to fit the blades with a minimum gap to the inner walls of the cylinder, especially since under such conditions there is a constant increase in wear of the rubbing parts.
- Structural complexity - reliable sealed protection of rotating units (bearing blocks) on the working shaft from the aggressive effects of cement mortar is required.
- It is almost impossible to prepare a solution with medium or coarse filler in such a concrete mixer. But for plastering and finishing work, using ready-made building mixtures, this is the most optimal option.
Gravity mixing
The gravitational principle of mixing - the components of the solution are mixed under the influence of their own gravity. A good example– place two different products in a glass jar, for example, two types of cereal, close the lid and start rotating - mixing will begin.
It is clear that this approach in its “pure” form does not provide quality cooking solution, or will require too much time to achieve an acceptable consistency. In industrial conditions, this method is not used, but for home needs a small, simple concrete mixer can be made.
The drawing shows a can - it is convenient from the point of view of tightly closing the lid. But, in principle, almost any container can be used if the owner carefully considers the issue of securely closing it while mixing the solution.
The axis of rotation can be fixed outside the container - in this case, it is not necessary to ensure the sealing of the assembly as it passes through the wall. But it’s still better to make it through - such an artificial obstacle during gravitational mixing of the solution will somewhat improve its quality.
On the Internet you can find many interesting solutions for making such simple concrete mixers from improvised materials. Very often the old ones are used iron barrels. Making a stand - probably not a single good one home handyman There won’t be any special difficulties.
The most difficult thing, probably, is, again, to think through the issue of a tight-fitting hatch, which, when open, will allow loading of the mixture components and pouring water, and when closed, during mixing, will not allow the liquid solution to leak out. The approaches here may be different, but most often they use a door with welded hinges, the opening for which is sealed with rubber around the perimeter.
Some creative craftsmen complicate the design somewhat in order to improve the quality of concrete mixing. So, for example, to increase the amplitude of differences in height, the barrel can be positioned not along the “correct” axis of the cylinder, but diagonally.
Rotating such a concrete mixer, of course, is somewhat more difficult, but uniform mixing of the solution will be achieved faster.
Combined principle
So, it was mentioned above that the gravitational principle of mixing in its “ pure form» does not differ in performance and high quality kneading You will probably hear objections - after all, it is believed, and many sources claim, that most conventional concrete mixers with a rotating drum located at an angle use precisely the gravitational principle. We can agree with this, but only by making one very important remark.
In such mixing devices, the blades are necessarily rigidly fixed on the inner surface of the working drum. Their configuration and size are thought out by the designers. When rotating, these blades move relative to the solution tending downward under its own weight. Thus, in this case it would be more appropriate to talk about the combination of two principles - both gravitational and forced. And indeed, this is exactly how the vast majority of cooking devices are designed.
There are several advantages:
- No sealing is required, neither the drum itself (it is constantly open at the top), nor the rotation unit (since no contact with the solution is assumed here).
- Part wear is significantly less.
- Such concrete mixers are simple and reliable in operation, easy to maintain.
- There are practically no restrictions on the component composition of the solution - crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay, etc. can be used.
The manufacture of a concrete mixer of this type will be discussed in more detail.
By the way, let’s return for a minute to those simple concrete mixers-barrels mentioned above. If you show a little ingenuity, it is also very easy to modernize them, dramatically improving both their performance and the quality of the mixed solution. To do this, it is enough to triple the blades or any other artificial obstacles on their inner surface.
One of the options is shown in the diagram. In this case, a comb is used, which is easy to weld from a corner and a piece of reinforcing rod. Two such combs will immediately transfer the concrete mixer from the category of gravitational ones to the “family” of more advanced, combined ones.
Vibration mixing of solution components
Not so often, but still some enthusiasts try to apply the principle of mixing concrete mortar using vibration. In industrial conditions, such installations give excellent results and are used for the production of highly precise reinforced concrete parts with the highest performance characteristics.
And at home, craftsmen try to use a powerful one as a drive (the main thing is that its vibration action is independent and does not require pressing the cartridge against an obstacle).
It turns out something like this:
1 – body of the container in which the components of the solution are mixed. Preference is given to round, not too large in radius, but high tubs (barrels).
2 – a bracket is rigidly attached to the body, which houses a vibration pulse generator, in our case a hammer drill (item 3).
The power of the hammer drill must be at least 1.3 - 1.5 kW. Even this will not guarantee success, and with less drive force, it is not worth trying.
A long rod (pos. 4) is inserted into the hammer drill chuck, which is connected to a vibrator (pos. 6). This rod must be of such length that the disc vibrator is located in height approximately in the center of the layer of the prepared solution (item 5).
It seems that everything is simple, but such a diagram does not always show good results. Mistakes most often lie in neglecting seemingly small nuances:
- A flat vibrator simply won’t work. A shape is needed that will propagate vibrations in a dense medium from a central point almost spherically to the periphery. There should be something spindle-shaped, similar to two plates connected together with the bottoms facing out. In principle, this is one of the solutions - two metal plates mounted on an axis.
- The diameter of the vibrator depends on the drive power. When making calculations, you can proceed from their approximate proportions: 150 ÷ 200 mm per 1 kW of hammer drill power. So, if we take a 1.5 kW hammer drill, then we prepare “plates” from 225 to 300 mm in diameter.
- The diameter of the cylinder itself should be such that from the outer edge of the vibrator, placed exactly in the center, to the wall of the container there is a distance approximately equal to the radius of the plate.
- To create vibration waves that can handle stirring cement-sand mixture, the level of the solution above and below the vibrator must be approximately equal to the diameter of the “plates”.
Vibration mixing concrete mixtures gives excellent quality solution. The process is very easily monitored visually - from active stirring, movement, bubbling - to a smooth, rippling surface (ready solution). But, you must admit that for this you need to comply with a lot of specific “whims”. And one more thing - “heavy” solutions with gravel or crushed stone are also problematic to prepare in this way. So it is widely used among private owners similar method doesn’t find it - it’s easier to make a concrete mixer according to the “classical” scheme.
Self-production of a “classic” concrete mixer
It is necessary to immediately warn the “hot heads” - not everyone can take on the production of such a concrete mixer. Although in many articles there is a “bravura motive” that it is both easier and cheaper than buying a ready-made one, you still shouldn’t believe it.
- Firstly, you should not start such work if the owner knows about the art of welding only by hearsay or is involved in this field.
“Secondly, the work will be profitable if most of the components for making a concrete mixer can be found among unnecessary things in your own household, from neighbors, or even in a landfill.
— Thirdly, the existing experience in the design, production of plumbing, welding, electrical work and the available inexpensive or even free materials must be multiplied by the expressed desire to make a concrete mixer yourself. There is a fairly large category of people who can’t wait to try to do everything with their own hands - this is a task specifically for them. If you start work without fulfilling such conditions, simply cherishing the ephemeral hope of saving something, then it’s better not to start. Time and materials will be wasted, and it will be much cheaper and easier to purchase a small and inexpensive concrete mixer - fortunately, the choice is quite large.
General scheme concrete mixers - approximately the same If we consider almost any of these concrete mixers, then three main structural units always clearly stand out:
- The container itself (tub) in which the solution is mixed, with all the additional mixing devices located in it.
- Frame (frame, frame), which serves to place on it a mixing tub, an electric or manual drive, controls and, if necessary, means of movement. The frame must provide a movable hinged fastening of the container, a degree of its freedom both around its own axis and relative to the horizon with different angles of inclination. The structure itself can be stationary, or it can have wheels for moving around the construction site.
- Drive is a mechanism that ensures rotation of the mixer container around its axis. In most cases it is used electric drive. For small concrete mixers, a manual drive may be sufficient. You can (rarely) come across options for installing internal combustion engines (gasoline or diesel) - then the concrete mixer will not be dependent on the power source. Any drive transmits torque with the number of revolutions required for the mixing technology through a gearbox (there are no restrictions - craftsmen use any type of transmission - gear, belt, worm, etc.).
Now let's look at the manufacture of all these units separately.
Mixing tub
When making a mixing container, it is assumed that during operation it is usually filled to a maximum of 30–40% of its total volume. Typically, these buckets are made with a volume of 100 to 200 liters. If you exceed these limits, it will be difficult to independently create a reliable, stable frame and equip a homemade concrete mixer with such a powerful drive. With small tank volumes, both assembly and operation of a concrete mixer often become simply unprofitable.
Prices for concrete mixers Enkor
concrete mixer Enkor
The easiest way, of course, is to find a ready-made container that is suitable in volume and dimensions as the main mixer. It immediately suggests itself se the same metal barrel.
The simplest approach is again a metal barrel This option is entirely possible, but for a good concrete mixer, the cylindrical shape of the tub is not optimal. A lot of unmixed solution may remain in the corners around the bottom, and it is possible that the solution will splash out from above when stirring.
Making a smooth transition from wall to wall is a very difficult task, but probably any craftsman can give the barrel a pear-shaped shape. Triangular cuts are made on top, and then the remaining “petals” are welded so that a uniform narrowing is obtained.
Improved barrel - the upper part is narrowed An interesting solution was found by a craftsman who decided to adapt plastic barrel. Why not? Smooth curves of the shape are what is required for a concrete mixer container. It is quite possible to attach the blades to its inner surface, and the axis with the rotation transmission mechanism from the outside below, not by welding, but by screw connections. But what a huge gain in terms of the weight of the device itself!
Original approach- plastic barrel As a result, the designer of this model even made do not with a steel frame, but with a mobile wooden base– a trolley on wheels.
The height of a standard barrel for use as a concrete mixer container is still too large and complicates the alignment of the entire unit. Please note that in such cases, support rollers are usually used for stabilization - the high tub seems to roll along them, resting on its upper part.
If there is no suitable container, but sheet metal with a thickness of 2 ÷ 3 mm is available, then you can try your hand at making a container yourself, giving it all the necessary shapes.
In order not to be unfounded, for those owners who consider themselves masters in welding work, we can offer interesting drawing manufacturing a “classic” concrete mixer with a drop-shaped bucket.
The overall dimensions of the container, without the connection unit with the gearbox, are 400 ÷ 500 mm. It would seem - not much, compact, but even only in the cylindrical part about 30 liters of solution fit - a completely acceptable indicator for a household concrete mixer.
1 – automobile wheel hub. You can make this part yourself, but it’s still easier to use a ready-made one.
2 - bottom of the tub. Cut from a steel sheet, preferably 5 mm thick. The figure below shows this position separately in an enlarged view. Holes (8 PC, with a diameter of 6.5 mm) must exactly coincide with the holes on the hub (pos. 1 ).
3 – the cylindrical part of the tub (shell) is welded from a steel strip bent into a ring, 2 mm thick, dimensions 150 × 1580 mm. All welds when assembling the tub are made continuous and sealed. It is advisable to strengthen the shell from above with a metal band ( tape).
4 — the conical part of the tub is welded from four identical parts. Their dimensions, including the radii of curvature in the upper and lower parts, are shown in the figure.
5 – along the top edge, the edge of the tub is flared outward, and By a steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm is welded around the circle (well shown in the diagram - node A ).
6 – “blades” - solution dividers - are welded inside the tub. In this case, the structure shown in the diagram, made of reinforcing rod with a diameter of 16 mm, will be quite sufficient. 3 pairs of such dividers are made and welded evenly around the circumference, every 120°. By the way, they should also give the tub additional strength. Each pair has one straight divider running from the bottom in the neck, and one curved at a right angle.
Bottom node ( B), which includes the already mentioned hub and bottom, is better shown in a separate, enlarged drawing.
7 – bolts connecting the hub to the bottom. The nuts are located on the outside. Between the parts there is a rubber gasket of at least 2 ÷ 3 mm (item 11).
8 – a screw with a washer that secures the hub to the output shaft of the gearbox (pos. 9 ). The hub is protected from turning on the shaft by a key (pos. 10 ).
Lower connection block ( B) is prepared, tried on, but mounted only after assembling the frame and installing the drive and gearbox on it. In principle, this will be one of the final operations - on a unit already mounted to the gearbox B the concrete mixing tank will be “seated” on the screws.
All welds must be descaled and carefully inspected to ensure complete leak-proof tubs.
Video: homemade concrete mixer with a tub welded from a steel sheet
Concrete mixer frame
In the manufacture of frames or trolleys for concrete mixers, the ingenuity of craftsmen who can adapt unnecessary metal parts and wheels for this design is also quite welcome.
The frames can have wheels, which means they can be easily transported to the right place. You can also make a stationary, motionless frame - it is easier to manufacture, and in conditions suburban area Usually, any larger movements of the concrete mixer are not planned.
Frames may also differ in the degree of freedom provided to the mixing tub. Thus, the container can be installed hingedly, changing the angle of inclination of its axis to the horizon as necessary - for solutions of varying degrees of “heaviness”, for dumping ready-made concrete, for washing the container, etc.
A simpler option is when the tub on the frame always occupies one position, and to unload the solution the entire concrete mixer tilts forward - like a wheelbarrow (as shown in one of the pictures above) or children's rocking chairs on arched runners.
Video: homemade concrete mixer with a swing-type frame
However, let's continue to consider the drawing of a concrete mixer, the manufacture of which was described above. It is quite possible to go along this path. The drawing, for ease of perception and for greater clarity in the size and arrangement of parts, is presented in two projections.
Concrete mixer - front view Assembling such a frame from ordinary and profile pipes and scraps of sheet metal will not be at all something extremely difficult for an experienced mechanic or welder. Meanwhile, this design has been well tested - it is not heavy, but it ensures reliable stability of the concrete mixer in the transport and working position, and ensures maximum ease of operation.
She is a side view 1 - this is the same tub that was described in the previous section of the article.
2 – a lever handle for installing the tub in the desired position and for tipping it over when unloading. For a lever you can use steel pipe½ inch (½ʺ).
3 – a gusset cut from 3 mm steel (s 3) ensures reliable fastening of the lever to the rotating subframe (pos. 18 ).
4 – metal wheels Ø 350 mm. They are usually taken from decommissioned agricultural equipment.
5 – thrust legs with thrust bearings for stable installation of the concrete mixer in the working position. They are made of ½ʺ pipe (the stands themselves) and s3 steel (thrust bearings).
6 – cross beam of the concrete mixer frame. A profile pipe with a cross section of 60 × 20 mm is used.
8 - an inclined beam (pipe 60 × 20 mm), and for its rigidity - a strut (pos. 7 ) connected to the cross beam. For the strut - ½ʺ pipe.
9 – a panel to which the electric drive controls will be attached. The panel is cut from s3 steel.
11 – wheel axle. Made from a metal circle Ø16 mm - according to size mounting hole available wheels
12 – longitudinal beam concrete mixer bed. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.
13 – vertical stand. Profile pipe 60 × 20 mm.
14 – eye of the hinged fastening of the rotary subframe. Two parts are made from s5 steel.
15 – transmission gearbox. In this version - a ready-made assembly, worm type, with a gear ratio i = 17.
16 – safety clutch on the electric drive shaft.
17 – . Specifically, in this concrete mixer model, the developer used a three-phase drive (380 V), with a rated power of 1 kW, and a rotation speed of 950 rpm.
18 – a swinging subframe on which both the electric drive with the gearbox and the mixing tub itself are mounted. It is made from the following parts: two spars from a ¾ʺ pipe, four cross members from a 35 × 35 mm angle.
19 , 20 And 21 – electric drive control elements: start button, capacitor box and power cord with a three-phase socket, respectively.
Now - a slightly larger knot A, which ensures installation and fixation of the mixing tub in the desired position.
On a stretcher (pos. 18 ) the eye is welded (pos. 22 ), and on the inclined stand (pos. 8 ) – sector (pos. 10 ). Both the eye and the sector can be made of s3 steel. The selected position is fixed with a pin (pos. 23 ), and so that it does not get lost, it is recommended to hang it on a chain.
The number of fixed positions in a sector may vary. However, it is usually enough T reh:
– at an angle of 50° to the horizontal – for mixing heavy concrete solutions;
– at an angle of 30 ° - for preparing light mortars (for example, masonry);
– horizontally – for washing the tub.
After assembling the frame, all welds are removed from slag, the parts must be cleaned of corrosion. Then it is recommended to cover the structure with high-quality metal paint. The rubbing components of the frame (subframe suspension in the frame lugs, wheel axles) are generously coated with conventional hinge grease.
In the variant under consideration, the drive and gearbox unit are attached to the subframe (so that precise alignment is maintained). After checking the functionality (test run), you can finally assemble the concrete mixer by placing the mixing tub in place and securing it with bolts.
A few words about the drive
In the example under consideration, the electric motor and gearbox already recommended by the model developer were used. However, in the practice of self-manufacturing concrete mixers, it is very widespread There is a situation when a master “on the fly” selects a drive from what is available and comes up with a way to transmit torque to the mixing tank.
It is customary to calculate the required electric drive power based on the ratio of 20 W per liter of solution for a scheme with an inclined tub. (When positioned horizontally, for example, in models with a barrel on a horizontal axis, 15 W/l will be sufficient). You should not forget about this ratio so as not to overload the drive. For example, if the engine in our case has a power of 1 kW, then you should not mix more than 50 liters of solution, regardless of the size of the tub itself.
Thus, often the tub itself begins to be manufactured, starting from the parameters of the drive that is planned to be installed on the concrete mixer.
The rotation speed of the mixer bucket should also be within certain framework . So, it is considered optimal from 30 to 50 rpm. To make the speed lower is to deliberately delay the process of making the solution. And if the speed is too high, the solution will begin to splash.
Finding a ready-made gearbox that would meet the requirements both in terms of dimensions and gear ratio is not always possible. Therefore, many masters find their own, sometimes very original ways transmitting torque to ensure the required angular velocity. In the version that was considered, the mixer is mounted directly on the driven axis of the gearbox. However, often the tub is installed on a free axle, and the torque laneeats on it by gear, belt, chain transmission. For example, here are a few original solutions:
Instead of pulleys - bicycle wheels Homemade gearbox - drive from old washing machine transmits rotation by belt drives through pulleys of their gears and old bicycle wheels.
The simplest frame with homemade gearbox Fixed frame for a concrete mixer with a homemade gearbox.
A homemade gearbox that combines a belt and two chain transmission. Again, there were some bicycle parts.
A small-sized concrete mixer, the rotation of which is transmitted directly to the bucket through a belt drive. The pulley is structurally located on the mixing tank itself.
Car parts that are no longer needed in the garage are often used. A popular solution is to use a flywheel with a ring gear. By the way, it is very easy to find a pair of drive gears - from the Bendix starter of the car, since they are “made for each other”.
The flywheel can be completely welded to the bottom of the tub.
Another option is when only the ring gear is used. There is probably no need to say that in this case it is extremely important point There will be a very careful alignment of it.
In a word, a thrifty owner can very often find parts for his own original solution to the issue of manufacturing the required gearbox. Perhaps the options shown will be a good hint for someone.
Video: another design option for a concrete mixer
Prices for concrete mixers Stroymash
concrete mixer Stroymash
If everything worked out, then the owner can be congratulated on successfully finding a good “helper”. But in order for the concrete mixer to last longer and not cause any emergency incidents, you need to adhere to certain rules:
- Like any equipment associated with the consumption of electricity, a concrete mixer requires compliance with electrical safety rules. And in this case, this issue is even more acute, since operation is always carried out in conditions high humidity and a high probability of water splashing. That is, all cables and contact connections must have the most reliable insulation, completely eliminating electric shock or short circuit.
- The operation of a concrete mixer is always associated with high levels vibrations. This leads to weakening threaded connections, which means they need to be checked and tightened regularly. At the same time, one should not forget to monitor the safety of other components and parts, welds and so on .
- Before starting work, you need to make sure that the concrete mixer is installed securely. It should rest tightly on all of its standard stands. If the structure is mobile, then wheel chocks (wedges) are placed under the wheels.
- Never, under any circumstances Not Do not leave a running concrete mixer unattended. Curious people, and especially children, should not be allowed near her.
- When working, it is better to use skin and eye protection, since cement has a rather aggressive effect on tissues and mucous membranes.
- Checking the quality of the resulting solution with a shovel or stick while the concrete mixer is running is the height of imprudence! Very often such actions end in serious injury to the hands or face.
And in conclusion of the article - proof that the limits of creativity when creating homemade equipment- No.
Video: homemade concrete mixer based on an old T-16 tractor