How are handmade billiard cues made? What and how are billiard cues made? We prepare the billiard cue for the game.

It started a long time ago and continues to this day. This game came out today new level fame and the number of its adherents. Therefore, more and more clubs and communities are appearing that practice billiards, train beginners, and also organize tournaments of various levels, including international ones. All players, without exception, want success in the game and high achievements, but skill alone is not enough. Very often a cue is made to order that will help you achieve your goal.

How and from what is a cue made?

The pleasure of playing billiards, as well as our success, largely depend on the correctly selected cue. Therefore, in order to choose a cue that will show your professionalism, you should take this process very seriously. The cue is very important in billiards because if it is correct, an experienced player can easily win. Therefore, this necessary attribute for playing billiards must have excellent qualities.

It is no secret that how a cue is made, as well as from what material, determine its properties and final quality, and therefore its purpose. It must be hard enough to make strong and sharp shots, and also flexible, this is very important in billiards. Hard and soft rocks natural wood, as well as various alloys, allow you to combine these qualities. Materials for making this important attribute for playing billiards are easy to find, but their price is quite high.

How they do it billiard cue? First of all, the valuable wood species from which it is made are carefully selected and processed. They should not have cracks or knots, and must be well dried. For production, wood species with high density and elasticity are used. Basically, cues are made from valuable wood. These are rosewood, buckout, colobolo, wenge, snakewood, black and white tree. The most expensive material is ebony. All these types of wood have very high hardness. In order to add the necessary flexibility to the product, pine or mahogany is usually used.

Quite often, the tip of the cue, which must be dense and resistant to impacts, is made from hornbeam. When making a cue, pay attention Special attention for even distribution of its weight. This is what helps you hit the balls accurately. During manufacturing, the shape, design, size, as well as the ability to fold (very convenient for frequent moves) are taken into account. For a long time, cues have been made from two or more types of wood. The wood is assembled into them using cuts, which at the final stage are folded into a certain pattern. Therefore, the following models are classified according to the type of cuts and their number:

crown- the most expensive and difficult to produce. They make a cue with this type of wash using a special expensive equipment and special equipment. The construction and design of the crown cut are of several types: four-feather long crowns, four-feather regular crowns, as well as a rare and complex crown cut on the crown. These are the main types, but there are other varieties. Such products have a very high density. Gaming characteristics at a high level;
Viennese or classic washed down, has the widest distribution. All workshops make cues with this type of cut. Most often, it is the Viennese cut that becomes the first work of a novice master. Different craftsmen have different feather angles, and this is the most important characteristic. Most players and masters agree that this simple type of cut is the best for billiard cue;
tulip. It is one of the variations of the classic feather pen. How to make a tulip cue? When gluing, the classic Viennese cut is combined in a special way, and the result is a tulip cut. This product is characterized by high density. Due to the labor-intensive process, as well as the high consumption of wood, the price of such models is quite high.

A good cue is the key to a successful game

You don't have to use the most expensive cue to enjoy playing billiards. We already know how a cue is made, so it is always possible to choose a model good quality"by hand", from good stuff and not spend it a large amount. To maintain its characteristics and ensure its durability, you should definitely purchase care products.

The accuracy of a shot in billiards takes years to perfect. In order to comprehend the fascinating science of playing billiards, professional players systematically train in friendly tournaments and fights. Billiards in Melitopol is a great way to take a break from the worries and bustle of the city, have a great time, chat with friends and enjoy the atmosphere of this interesting game.

Good afternoon, dear readers!

Examples of cues made in Shatov’s workshop

Thanks to a happy coincidence, the other day I was able to visit an amazing place - unique carpentry workshop, which exclusively produces billiard cues. And not just billiards, but Russian. And not just Kiev, but exclusive Kyiv self made . And in general, this is not an ordinary workshop, but a workshop of one of the best masters for the production of handmade cues in our country - workshop of Ivan Shatov.

workshop manager Ivan Shatov at work

The workshop team received me very warmly and shared with me all the intricacies of the cue making process with great pleasure. Alexey Shatov gave me a fascinating tour of the workshop. Today I will share this most valuable knowledge with you.

general form workshop

master Alexey Shatov

The most important thing about a cue is the material from which it is made. The tree must meet many criteria: first of all, it must be both super strong and very flexible. In addition, handmade cues are true works of art, which is largely achieved through the use of several types of wood with different grain structures and colors. Due to such stringent requirements, the range of wood species used is quite limited and is represented mainly by exotic species. For example, the striking part of the cue (shaft) is in most cases made of hornbeam (density 750 kg/m3). The rest of the cue can be made from species such as rosewood, merbau, wenge, padouk, coco-bolo, ebony and even the heaviest wood in the world - snakewood (1400 kg/m3). The quality of workmanship, the combination of species and, ultimately, the beauty of the product depends entirely on the imagination and skills of the craftsman.

material for cues - bars of valuable species

The wood is delivered to the workshop in the form of blanks, which have previously undergone a lengthy process natural drying(for some breeds this period can reach a year or even more). Raw materials arrive in the workshop long before they are used: already dried bars must be aged for at least three months directly in the workshop before they are put into use - to establish the required humidity.

planer-thicknesser machine

First of all, a blank is made from a block the right size. In this case, a high-precision planer-thicknesser machine is used. Because of high density processed wood, the knives of the machine wear out several times faster than when processing soft wood. At the end of this stage, perfectly smooth workpieces measuring 30x30mm are obtained.

cutting the desired angle on a band saw

Next, the workpiece falls on band saw with the thinnest blades (0.35mm) - to ensure the cleanest possible cut. The photo shows that with the help of tsulagi ( special device), the cut occurs at a special, strictly specified angle. This angle itself is distinctive feature masters and each master has his own.

knives for finishing parts after band sawing

Despite the thin blade, the band saw is not able to make a cut of the desired shape - there will always be a right angle (step) at the end of the cut. To bring the cut to perfection, custom-made knives are used that have exactly the blade angle that is required.

final finishing hand tools

perfectly precise connection

Then, in the same way, similar elements from other species or of a different size are cut on a band saw, depending on the master’s plan. After which the entire workpiece is placed in clamps for gluing. To merge elements into a single whole, it is used epoxy resin. Resin is better suited than glue for this type of work, as it has more long time setting (about 30 minutes) - it is possible to take your time and accurately assemble the workpiece. In addition, PVA glue has some elasticity even after hardening, which is unacceptable for a cue, as it can give additional play. The resin after curing is completely monolithic.

the workpiece is clamped into the clamps during gluing

After the resin has completely hardened (after a week), the workpiece is prepared for the next stage - processing on a lathe.

workpiece before turning

the workpiece is installed in lathe

One of the key stages is selection required quantity lead for the cue handle. The cue is balanced in a special way. Often, when making a cue to order, the customer has wishes, including the required weight of the cue.

lead rod

Final grinding is done exclusively by hand on a special homemade abrasive stand. Painting is carried out at the request of the customer: it can be varnished or natural oil, which is the most popular at the moment.

finishing equipment manual grinding cue

There was also room in the workshop for a machine with CNC program control. It has a cutter for carving and a laser for burning. It is mainly used to apply the master's mark to an almost finished cue.

CNC machine

examples of works from Shatov's workshop

I express my gratitude to the workshop team for great opportunity get acquainted with the process of making cues, with the workshop itself and with the finished products!

Dear readers, tomorrow you will find the most exciting part of the report - photographs finished works Shatov's workshop. Who can't wait for tomorrow, look now at

Let's see what types of wood are used in the manufacture of billiard cues. As you have already noticed, there are not very many of these species, since not every tree has the required rigidity.

Amaranth: valued by craftsmen for its high density and hardness, providing it with excellent resistance to dynamic loads.
Ebony: A very dense material, so dense that it sinks in water. Eben is a real record holder in terms of value. A cubic meter of such a tree can cost more than 100 thousand dollars. Accordingly, if you are offered an ebony cue for ridiculous money, think about it, can this actually happen?
Rosewood: polishes well, practically does not dry out, and the hardness of the wood is greater than that of oak. Typically used as decorative element, because it has a beautiful fiber structure.
Wenge: wenge wood has excellent resistance to compression and bending, so it is used quite widely in the production of billiard cues. Plus, wenge is not susceptible to fungal attack, which makes it very convenient to store. The wood is so hard and heavy that even termites avoid this wood.
Hornbeam: There are probably not many good and inexpensive billiard cues that do not use hornbeam. Rigidity, bending strength and crackability are not a complete list of its properties. It is worth noting that in a “fresh” state, hornbeam is susceptible to fungal attack, but correct processing and drying make it ideal material for cue. As a rule, hornbeam is used to make turnstiles, and is also actively used in herringbone gluing.
Bubingo (kewasingo, waka): the wood has a distinct dark red or red-brown hue (vaguely reminiscent of some types of rosewood). Bubingo from Cameroon stands out among its fellows with its original curls in texture. High density and wear resistance and external influences made bubingo one of the most popular woods in cue production.
Lacewood: wood has an interesting pattern combined with strength and ease of processing. Lacewood is easy to polish and glue, but the craftsman should carefully monitor the processing process, since the coarse-fiber structure of Lacewood requires certain skills to avoid loosening.
Ipe: along with hornbeam, is the most common material for making billiard cues. It has a deep olive-brown color and good resistance to all types of external influences.

The appearance of leather sticker

Almost until the early 30s of the 19th century, all shots in billiards were strictly central. The ball could only be launched in a straight line. Leather stickers, without which modern billiards is simply impossible to imagine, did not exist at that time. It is true that many players tried to find some way to improve the game. One of the first pioneers was the French Major Dugas, big fan billiards As a prototype for the sticker, he invented a plaster tip. Such a tip had a lot of disadvantages: the cue had to be periodically dipped in liquid plaster, drops of plaster fell on the cloth, the cloth easily tore from accidental hits with such a tip, etc. Despite this, such a cue provided advantages in the game compared to an ordinary wooden cue without any tip. The balls still had to be hit only in the center, but the plaster tip significantly reduced the likelihood of kicking.
The invention of the leather sticker is attributed to another Frenchman, Mengo. According to one version, Mengo accidentally hit the wall with his cue and lime remained on the end of the cue, and after the hit the cue ball rolled back slightly. Another legend says that, being wounded, Mengo, as a joke, hit the ball with a crutch with clay stuck to it and with this blow rolled the cue ball back. However, the method of discovery of this effect is not important, what is important is that Mengo began to improve this idea and eventually settled on the skin. With the advent of the leather sticker, those shots with screws that we see in modern billiards became possible.
Today, there are many stickers for cues of varying degrees of hardness (soft, medium and hard) and with a different number of layers from single-layer hard stickers to 12-layer soft ones. Each player can choose the right sticker depending on the type of billiards (Russian or pool) and the style of their game.

Billiard cue balance

For comfortable game you need your own cue - perhaps no one will argue with this statement. One of important indicators cue is its balance. How should a cue be balanced to make playing as comfortable as possible? Let's define the terminology: balance is the point along the cue at which the cue is in a state of horizontal balance and is measured in centimeters from the turnik.
In general, the cue balance is conventionally divided into “back” and “front”. To play someone else's balls, the balance of the cue is usually located at a distance of 42-45 cm. This position facilitates the accuracy of playing someone else's balls. For more accurate play with your own ball, the balance of the cue is 30-35 cm. This balance is well suited for the Moscow or Neva pyramid, in which the play of your own balls is played vital role.
The forward balance of the cue allows you to play more stable from an open stop and make straight shots more accurately (without screws). If your playing style is precision cutting and open bridge, then best choice there will be a balance forward or in the middle. By the way, according to the results of the analysis of billiard games, most balls can be played without the use of a screw. It is also worth noting that the forward balance allows the manufacturer to be less careful about the rigidity and stability of the cue.
A back-balanced pool cue is easier to hold with one hand because there is much less strain on the hand. When making a cue, it is more difficult for the manufacturer to make a back balance, since more demands are placed on the design of the cue. high requirements. But if all standards are met, we will get a more stable tool for the game.
As a rule, in most inexpensive cues, a removable weight is located inside the turnik, with the help of which you can change the balance or weight of the cue within certain limits.
In any case, when buying a cue, you should try it out, since all numerical values in the cue parameters are relative. If the cue “fits into your hand” and is comfortable to play with, then this is your cue.

Dependence of skill on the cost of the cue

No one will argue with the statement that to develop the skill of playing billiards you need your own cue. But it arises next question– which cue should I buy for a beginner player? Entering any serious billiard salon, both a regular and an online store, we will see a choice of more than 150 cues and a huge range of prices. Naturally, a beginner is not going to shell out more money for a cue right away and will turn his attention to beginner and intermediate price segments.
And here we should remember several “insights” that often come to novice amateurs:
Insight one: the player subconsciously assumes that buying an expensive cue will automatically improve the game. This is partly true because the money spent and the feeling of novelty encourage the beginner to play more often. Accordingly, more practice improves results, although it does not correct gaps in playing technique.
Insight two: the initial interest in billiards may wear off. Sometimes this happens quite quickly for various reasons: lack of time, lack of regular partners to play with, reluctance to train alone, etc. In this case, the cue becomes another unclaimed item in the house.
At some point, the player comes to the most important understanding that the full potential of the acquired cue will not be revealed, since this requires training. Train constantly and purposefully, and not play “for fun,” even regularly. This is quite normal, since not all amateurs become professionals.
From all this we can draw the main conclusion: the cost of a billiard cue directly depends on the time spent pool table. Purely theoretically, a novice player can go through 3 stages of purchasing his cue. The first cue is purchased within 1000 UAH. As a rule, these are quite decent cues, and the low cost is due to the small number of cuts. If a beginner successfully passes the first two “insights,” then he moves on to the middle one. price category Kyiv and chooses a cue based on your playing style and experience. Well, in the case of turning professional, the player already understands perfectly what he needs and makes a third purchase. By the way, not all champions of the Russian pyramid play with “priest” cues or cues for 1.5-2 thousand dollars.

Selecting billiard cue parameters

There are many parameters by which one billiard cue differs from another: the number of component links, the ratio of their lengths (one-piece, two-piece, three or more parts); types of wood used for making, their ratio, number of wedges, finishing features, type of twist, type and characteristics of the sticker, etc., etc., etc. These parameters significantly affect appearance billiard cue and are a reflection of the purely subjective concept of the person playing with this instrument about the beauty and playing properties of the cue.

In addition to the indicated characteristics, a billiard cue has parameters directly related to the player’s height and type of game: length of the cue, diameter of the turnbuckle, diameter of the sticker, weight, balance. Choosing the diameter of the turnyak involves testing different cues and choosing the diameter that is most conveniently located in the hand. Regarding the choice of sticker: the smaller the professional you are, the larger the diameter of the sticker is recommended to choose. This can be explained by the fact that a wider sticker will “smooth out” errors when executing a shot. The range of sticker diameters recommended for amateur players varies between 12.5 and 13 millimeters. Please note that these tips are advisory nature and summarize the opinions of most players, but not all. Regarding the choice of sticker hardness, I won’t even start a conversation because... This topic is generally of a purely individual nature. Let me just say that the most common stickers we have are Triangle, Master, and Muri. Kamui, Le Pro and Molavia stickers and some other types are also easily available and well known. Over time, each player himself comes to the conclusion that a particular sticker is ideal for his type of game, sometimes this opinion changes over time. One way or another, this is a path of trial and error, from which no one is immune.

One of the most important parameters When choosing a suitable cue for playing billiards, it is its length. Many amateurs believe that the cue length is appropriate for a given player if the vertical cue stick is level with the lips or the tip of the nose. In fact, this statement is wrong. No matter how close a player is to the standard ratio of arm length to height, there are still physiological differences. There are also differences between players' stances. The length of the cue for players of the same height and the same arm length may vary due to the use of a low (“snooker”) stance or a classic high (“old-fashioned”) stance. Taking into account the influence of this factor, we ask you to take the measurements described below after bringing the rack into proper shape. If you have just started taking lessons from a coach and the stance is not yet very comfortable for you, we still ask you to bring it in line with the requirements of the coach and the canons of billiard science. So, let's start describing the method. I recommend hiring a third party observer, but you can do it yourself. Among other things, I recommend taking the largest (in length) of the cues available and taking measurements on it. The point of the operation is to determine the distance from the heel of the hitch to the end of the hand when making the majority of shots in billiards. One way or another, when playing simple pairs, the position of which does not constrain your stance with any inconveniences, the position of your hand on the turnik will be quite stable. After 10-20 shots from various positions (near the board, at a distance of the ball from the board, at a distance of 3 balls from the board, from the middle point) it will become clear where exactly your hand is on the turn in 90% of shots. Ideally, the found distance from the heel to the little toe on the bustle should be close to the width of the palm. Thus, if the distance turns out to be large, then you can calculate how much shorter the cue needs to be purchased by subtracting the width of your palm from the distance obtained as a result of measuring the distance.
The most unexpected discovery for many (even experienced) billiards fans will be that the ideal cue length is the one that is most convenient for delivering the bulk of shots and is not limited to generally accepted standards. Many tall players of various (even professional) levels play cues less than 160cm.
Please note that reducing the length of the cue (if the cue is already available) by about 2 cm does not lead to a deterioration in the playing properties of the cue, and, in addition, can even improve the playing characteristics. It is advisable to coordinate the “shortening” of the cue by a larger amount with the craftsman who made this product. Among other things, any work on changing the characteristics of the product, “tuning”, and even installing a sticker is best left to professionals.
It is also possible to change the parameters of the cue by redistributing the weight. This method allows you to avoid changing the length of the cue.

Regarding weight:
The weight of a cue for Russian billiards varies around the 700g mark. The choice of weight is a subjective parameter and debates about it do not subside. You need to understand that there is no direct connection between the weight of the cue and the force with which the ball “breaks” new pockets in the sides of the billiard table. Considering the physical laws and properties of wood used in the manufacture of modern “master” cues, we can say with confidence that there is no point in making a cue for RP heavier than 720g.
Jack Kellner's book, "Billiards the Science of It," states that the cue ball's gain from hitting kinetic energy depends on the speed of impact and the weight of the cue. Therefore, a cue that is heavier in weight does not have the same impact speed as a lighter cue to transfer the same amount of energy to the cue ball. Even if the difference is insignificant, the author of the book concludes that a light cue has the greatest control over the speed of the cue ball, while at the same time, a heavier cue will provide less speed at which the cue ball is hit, which will accordingly lead to greater control over the deflection and direction of the cue ball.
It is easier for beginners to use a cue with a relatively heavy weight, since it is this factor that affects the control of the accuracy of the strike and the deflection of the cue ball, rather than using a light cue. With the improvement of playing technique, when the speed of impact becomes a priority, it will be possible to use a lighter weight cue.

After choosing the length, balance, weight, and design of the cue, you need to start choosing a master who will bring these ideas to life, or choose a ready-made cue in which all the characteristics are close to the ones you are looking for. It is important to note that it is the master’s qualifications and his skillful hands that make the greatest contribution to the playing properties of the instrument. Even the most expensive species used by an incompetent craftsman in the manufacture of a cue will not add playing properties to it. And vice versa: even the simplest breeds will “play” in finished product if they are selected, processed, assembled and glued with skillful hands highly qualified craftsman.

Preparing the billiard cue for the game

The basic factor in achieving success in billiards is, undoubtedly, the skill of the player. However, many other components can also influence achieving a positive result and victory over an opponent. Some of them are correct selection And competent preparation billiard cue for the game. It is especially important to sharpen the cue tip correctly. In this article I will tell you how to do this.

To give the tip of the cue the desired shape, it is necessary to use a specially designed tool for sharpening the tip of the cue. His name is shaper.

Initially, you need to form the correct circle of the cue and choose the type of tip you want. There are two types of cue tips: through and in the form of a cap. The shaper allows you to give the cue tip any look.

Depending on what you want to achieve, place the cue inside the instrument on the desired side. After this, rotate the cue in a circle, holding it inside the shaper. During rotation, you do not need to put pressure on the shaft: its own weight is enough.

After you have obtained the shape of the tip you need, you need to sharpen its edges. To do this, use the sides of the shaper.

The final stage will be grinding the irregularities formed on the tip of the cue. Insert the cue into the space between the two ends of the tool and rotate it until all the rough edges are removed.

After these three fairly simple procedures, your cue is ready to play. It must be remembered that over time, the tip of the cue wears out and new irregularities form on it. Also, the tip may not stick to the cue as firmly as it was originally. Therefore, it is recommended to periodically tap the tip of the cue using a drill or similar tool. Irregularities need to be sanded using a shaper.

If you take care of your cue and keep it in perfect condition, you will be able to achieve good results in the game and become a real master. Enjoy your training and good luck playing.

How to straighten a cue

Let's take a strong board, the cue is attached to it first with the thick end using a strong rope. At the place of the curvature (we determined it in advance by rolling the cue on a flat surface), place a spacer (for example, a simple pencil) between the board and the cue. Let's pull the second end of the cue to the board. We do not pay attention to the fact that the bend is decent. It should be 2-3 times larger (and, naturally, directed in the opposite direction) than the curvature itself. Let's adjust this by the thickness of the spacer.

The second method of straightening the cue.

We use a professional hair dryer for these purposes. We set the temperature to the maximum (>400 degrees), but heat the wood to 50-60 degrees (possibly more, but you have to be careful, the wood may burn), so as not to burn the wood, you need to “move” the nozzle and maintain a distance. The heating distance is up to 10 cm, the frequency of scanning the cue surface increases as the distance decreases. As a rule, only the convex side is subject to heating, but with significant coverage of the areas adjacent to the convexity.

We focus heating on the convexity. In this case, the convexity is mechanically pressed between two support points and warms up for 1.5-2 minutes. If the cue is dismountable, then you need to edit each part separately. Mark the convex side with a pencil. We take an old shoe, rest one end on it, and the other on the floor (preferably not a pile carpet, so as not to burn it), press it next to the bulge and warm it up. Next, place it on the surface and rotate again. When everything comes together, it is necessary to perform an important operation - to relieve the tension in the tree. To do this, take a “cloth” or a flap of flannel and vigorously rub the entire shaft (or cue) until it is evenly heated; this cannot be done with a hairdryer. We check on the plane. If there is curvature, we need to repeat everything until we achieve the desired result.

How to make a sticker

Let's take leather (thick from old boots, for example), sand it with sandpaper to make it thinner, then chop it or cut it with scissors, degrease it with Acetone and coat it with instant glue, glue it again and fold it into layers, and into your device, and tighten it with nuts even more tightly.

According to the experiences of some craftsmen, after several months of playing with a 4-layer sticker, no fundamental differences from a cheap store sticker, but the 6-layer one turned out to be softer. Factory stickers have a rounded shape, but homemade ones turned out to be flat and therefore the ball vented a little worse, you can make a small rounded depression in the lower part so that the sticker takes the desired shape under pressure, as for glue, it turns out you only need a little bit of it, layers between each other and without glue they stick together well under pressure.

The playing qualities of a billiard cue directly depend on how and from what it was made. Let's talk a little about how cues are made in modern workshops.

What are cues made from?

What are cues made from?

All materials must be of high quality; the dried wood used is carefully selected and processed; there should be no knots or cracks in it. As a rule, the material is prepared in advance, then it is given time to “rest”, and only after that they begin processing and the actual production of a billiard cue - a gaming instrument. All bars that have led or exhibited any other defect are eliminated.

What kind of wood are cues made from?

Almost all high-quality billiard cues are made from several valuable types of high-density wood. For the manufacture of the turnak and inlaid (cut) parts of the cue, hard and very hard wood is used, for example, sapelli, amaranth, laywood, paduk, black hornbeam, wenge, lemongrass, rosewood, bakote, cocobolo, makassar, ebony and a number of other materials. In this case, “cuts” of different types of wood can be connected, which has a positive effect on the playing properties of the cue. There may be cuts different shapes: classic - Viennese, cobweb, crown, flower, tulip and others. Handmade cue shafts are made only from hornbeam. Factory cues are usually made from maple.

Making a handmade cue

The first stage after selecting materials is filing (or preparing glued parts). The cue parts prepared at this stage are glued together. At the same time, when making a handmade cue, the composition of the glue can also be changed so that its hardness after drying is equal to the hardness of wood. Then the billiard cue will transmit the impact energy without distortion. The pieces are glued together under pressure. After gluing, the cue blanks are sent to drying, where they rest for some time. And only after this the processing of the cue itself begins: all its parameters, dimensions are set, and its shape is given. If we are talking about a two-piece cue, then a twist is inserted. At the same stage, a weight is added and the cue is balanced. What is important is that at this stage all actions are usually performed manually, using sandpaper, a blade, a plane, without using a lathe. Why? Because, according to the craftsmen, during turning, a huge amount of internal stresses in the wood arise in the blank of the future cue, even small ones - but they can greatly influence the playing qualities of the cue. Good workshops try to avoid this. After this, the cue is cleaned. A logo, inlay or almost any image of the customer’s choice is applied to it - even rhinestones. In the case of factory cues, a logo is usually applied. After this, the cue is covered with wax or varnish and polished. Each cue is tested: when you buy a handmade cue, you can be sure of its high playing qualities.

Making a cue in a factory is faster and easier. In the industrial production of cues, gluing is not performed; the turnstile and shaft are made of maple on a lathe. On next stage lathe running under control computer program. The cue is given required form. The drawing is applied - also on a machine. After this, the twist is installed and the turnstile can be attached to the shaft. Next, the cue is varnished - again automatically.

Characteristics of wood species for billiard cues:

Ramin: density - 670 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.0

Maple: density - 650 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.0

Hornbeam

Beech: density - 650 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.8

Oak: density - 700 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.8

Ash

Lemon: density - 700 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.6

Amarilla: density - 800 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 4.5

Karelian Bareza: density - 700 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.5

Sapelli

Lacewood: density - 650 kg/m 3, Brinell hardness - 3.5