One of the main advantages of PVC panels is their ease of installation. Even a person far from construction and construction can easily cope with it. repair work. The main thing is to follow the algorithm of actions and a few simple rules.
Installation methods
Glue mount
Frame mounting
Installation of plastic panels in the bathroom can be carried out by two different ways. Firstly, they can be directly on the wall, and secondly, they can be attached to a pre-prepared frame.
In the first case, you will first have to carefully prepare the wall surface in order to ensure the tightest possible fit of the panel sheets. If the wall surface has significant unevenness, then preference is given to the second option. The disadvantage of this method is the reduction usable area, but it makes it possible to improve heat and noise insulation and hide all communications.
Preparing for work
For finishing the bathroom PVC rooms with your own hands, depending on the installation option, you will need chipboard or fiberboard, slats, bars or metal profiles, moldings. It is also worth preparing a sealant and insulating materials.
The quality and durability of the cladding depend to a large extent on the accuracy and precision of the measurements. Therefore, when installation work oh can't do without:
- roulette;
- level;
- rulers;
- pencil.
To secure the sheathing and sheets, adhesive, self-tapping screws, clamps or nails, a hammer, a screwdriver, a hacksaw (with a fine tooth) are used. construction stapler, hammer drill and screwdriver.
Calculations
To determine the amount of material, a series of simple calculations are first carried out.
When calculating the number and length of the profile, take into account that:
- The sheathing elements must be positioned perpendicular to the panels. So, if the panels are planned to be mounted vertically, then parts of the sheathing are placed horizontally. And vice versa;
- the distance between the slats should be from 30 to 50 cm;
- additional slats are mounted around the door opening;
- installation is carried out around the perimeter;
- in addition to the sheathing, guides are also needed;
- all non-integer numbers in calculations are rounded upward;
- the number of fasteners required in a bathroom on your own depends on the length of the wall surface, at the rate of 1 element for every 50 cm. If you use clamps, 20 fasteners will be needed per 1 m2.
The number of base materials is also calculated depending on the length of the wall. To do this, the total length is divided by the width of the panels. If PVC sheets or tiles are used, their quantity is calculated per m2. Calculations near the doors are done separately.
It is equally important to correctly prepare all the components (accessories). Using corner profiles, they are purchased according to the number of corners in the bathroom. The number of internal and external corners for the plinth also depends on this indicator. The length of the floor plinth and ceiling fillet is calculated in accordance with the perimeter of the room.
To all calculation results add 5-10% (for an unsuccessful cut, overlap, etc.) so that emergency I didn't have to run to the store.
Glue installation method
Installing PVC panels with glue is considered the easiest and fastest way. However, for him high-quality execution the surface on which polyvinyl chloride plates will be installed must be as flat as possible.
How to properly attach plastic panels in the bathroom with glue?
- To begin with, the walls are cleaned of old cladding (wallpaper is removed, paint is removed, etc.). If there are bumps and depressions, it must be leveled using putty containing antibacterial substances.
- After the putty has dried, a primer is applied over it. For each surface, the primers will be different: for walls covered with oil paint one, and for “clean” concrete ones – a completely different one.
- Special attention When preparing materials, it is worth paying attention to glue. Conventional adhesive for the bathroom will not work, because due to high humidity and temperature changes, it will quickly soften and cease to hold the finish.
- A good option This is where liquid nails can become, which are highly moisture resistant and reliably glue any materials.
- If the preparatory work for leveling and processing the walls is done correctly, but glue the sheets with your own hands, without help professional craftsmen, will not be difficult.
- Start installation from one of the corners.
Important! Do not forget to attach the connection to the PVC sheet before installation. internal corners, securing it to the end from the tenon side.
The glue is diluted strictly following the instructions on the package. It is applied to the wall and to the panel itself with a roller, notched trowel or brush. At the same time, you should not coat a large section of the wall at once. After applying the adhesive, you need to wait some time (it is usually indicated on the packaging) and fix the element in the right place.
All subsequent elements are attached in exactly the same way. They must be tightly connected to each other using tongue-and-groove elements.
If, when approaching the opposite corner, the sheet cannot be installed completely, then it must be cut off with a construction or ordinary stationery knife. The corner connection is attached to it from the cut side.
Installation of PVC panels on an adjacent wall surface begins with an already installed corner connection adjacent wall.
Frame installation
Now in more detail about how to attach plastic panels in a bathroom using the frame method.
Base assembly
Frame for walls
For bathroom
For the ceiling
With this option for installing PVC panels, there is no need to carefully level and clean the wall. But if there are traces of mold or mildew on its surface, then the wall must be cleaned and treated with special means that will prevent the further appearance and spread of negative factors.
The frame for installing PVC strips and sheets can be made of wood, metal parts or PVC.
First, let's talk about how to install plastic panels on a wooden base, which is the most common. Before work begins, all parts of the wood frame must be treated with antibacterial compounds.
To assemble a wooden frame you will need bars with a section size of 4x4 or 4x2.5. Installation begins with securing the guides. Then the cross members are attached (depending on the cladding option, either horizontally or vertically). To increase rigidity, additional supports can be added to the frame. Required condition the distance between them is the same.
Video: Step-by-step assembly of a wooden frame for PVC panels
The first row is attached at a distance of 30-40 cm from the floor. All subsequent rows are attached with the same step. The top one is installed at the level of the future ceiling. In this case, all rows are placed perpendicular to the panel fastenings. You should ensure that all elements are located evenly and in the same plane.
Metal sheathing will cost more, but will last much longer. The material used for it is aluminum profile. First, U-shaped profiles are installed at the top and bottom (under the ceiling and near the floor). Between them, with a step not exceeding 0.9 m, there are guides. Subsequently, PVC slats are mounted on them.
In order to save money, it is also possible to combine the first and second types of frames. In this case, its perimeter is made of metal, and the racks are made of wooden parts.
Another option for the frame is a plastic base. This is the “youngest” method, but no less fast and effective. PVC guides are equipped with special locks that snap plastic sheets or slats. A huge advantage This option is that such panels can be dismantled and reassembled. Also, this frame does not require additional processing, is not susceptible to rotting or exposure to fungi and mold.
Installation of panels
Attaching sheets to the finished wooden base made using self-tapping screws with press washers or clamps. Can also be used furniture stapler. They are attached to the metal frame exclusively with self-tapping screws and press washers.
After preparing the frame, but before installing the panels themselves, the wires are removed into the gap between the wall and the frame, sound and thermal insulation materials. And only after that they begin to attach the main elements in the bathroom.
The installation algorithm is approximately the same as with the adhesive method. Start from the corner. The starting sheet is secured with a stapler or screws, in bottom corner which the mounting shelf is inserted (its wide part should “look” towards the next element). In the same way, other panels are installed sequentially.
If even small joints form between individual sheets of finishing, they must be treated with silicone sealant. However, if all work is carried out consistently and correctly, there should be no unplanned gaps.
Answering the question about how to install plastic panels, experts or those who have already done it themselves advise:
- Before installation, allow the material to “get used to the climate” of the room;
- carry out all work at a temperature of no more than 20°;
- before installing the panels, mark the locations of all parts and openings (pipes, valves, etc.) protruding beyond the wall plane;
- ventilation holes, door openings and built-in furniture should be edged in advance with corners, into which PVC sheets will then be installed.
PVC panels are practical and durable material, and therefore are widely used in. They are suitable for any room, and the variety of textures, shapes and colors allows you to make the interior not just cozy, but also very stylish. The fastening technology is quite simple, so wall decoration plastic panels – great option for the beginning master.
Selecting panels for finishing
The range of plastic panels is so large that it is very difficult for an inexperienced buyer to understand. To avoid mistakes, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics in advance of this material and its varieties. You should only consider certified material, because low-quality panels do not have the required strength and quickly fade.
The main advantages of plastic panels:
The disadvantage of this material is its low impact resistance, so the panels should be handled with care during transportation and installation. Depending on the coating, the panels are divided into matte and glossy, and according to the technology of applying the pattern - into film and printed.
Standard sizes:
- width from 200 to 350 mm;
- length from 2700 to 3000 mm;
- thickness from 8 to 10 mm.
The strength of the material depends not only on the thickness of the walls, but also on the number of stiffeners located inside the panel. To check how durable the material is, you need to press your finger on the surface - if the plastic bends, the panel will not last long.
Besides, You should not buy panels if:
comparison table characteristics of PVC panels (for comparison, plastic panels with a flexo printing coating type, 0.25 m wide and 3 m long, are taken)
| Indicator/panel | PVC panel TM Decomax | Average Chinese panel | Average European panel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front surface thickness, mm | 2,5 | 1,5 | 2,0 |
| Number of stiffeners, pcs. | 29 | 20 | 29 |
| Condition of the stiffeners | smooth, without deformation | smooth, there are minor deformations | smooth, without deformation |
| PVC panel weight, kg/sq.m | 2,2 | 1,7 | 2,0 |
| Appearance | The coating is smooth, but with obvious gaps in the stiffening ribs, there are slight deformations | The coating is smooth, without the appearance of stiffening ribs | |
| Raw materials | after slight pressure the panel becomes deformed, which proves the high chalk content | after slight pressing, the panel returns to its original appearance, which indicates a low chalk content |
Prices for popular finishing wall panels
Preparatory stage
Preliminary calculations
You need to start by calculating the amount of finishing material so that you don’t have to overpay or go to the store for an additional batch. The panels can be mounted both vertically and horizontally, depending on the wishes of the apartment owners. At vertical mounting The number of panels is calculated as follows: measure the length of the perimeter of the room, subtract the width of the openings and divide by the width of one panel. To the resulting number add 2-3 lamellas in reserve.
For horizontal installation, measure the area of the room minus doors and window openings and divided by the area of one panel. Here the margin should be at least 10%, since the consumption of material for trimming increases. Additionally, you need to calculate the number of slats for the sheathing and fasteners. First, the height of the walls is divided by the sheathing pitch, which is usually 0.5 m, and multiplied by the perimeter of the room. The resulting number indicates the length of the slats in linear meters. By measuring the height of the corners and multiplying it by their number, we obtain the total footage of the corner profiles; to this number you need to add the perimeter of window and door openings.
Methods for attaching lamellas
There are three ways to secure the panels to the wall - using glue, self-tapping screws and clamps. The first method is suitable for very smooth and smooth walls; glue is used special for PVC, universal “Moment-installation” or “liquid nails”.
Application this method makes it easier and cheaper installation process, since there is no need to attach the sheathing. Disadvantages: it is impossible to replace a damaged panel; during subsequent repairs it is difficult to remove the covering from the wall.
Fastening with self-tapping screws is reliable and convenient option, which does not require a perfectly flat surface. To screw in the screws, you definitely need a screwdriver, otherwise the installation process will take a long time. Disadvantages of this method: a wooden frame is better suited for self-tapping screws, so additional time is spent cutting the timber and processing it
The third option is the most optimal. The clamps are conveniently and quickly attached to the sheathing and securely fix the panels to the wall. The lathing is mounted from a metal profile, assembly of the covering is carried out effortlessly. A damaged lamella can be easily replaced with a new one; dismantling the finish also does not take much time.
Tools and necessary materials
During the work, everything should be at hand, so materials and tools for installation are prepared in advance. You will need:
- fine-toothed hacksaw;
- pencil and tape measure;
- level;
- square;
- plastic panels;
- slats or plastic profile;
- dowel-nails, screws or clamps;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
- antiseptic composition;
- sealant;
- ceiling plinth.
Preparing the walls
Before covering the walls with panels, you need to clear the old coating, seal every single crack, noticeable defects and treat the surface with an antifungal agent. Thanks to this, dust will not accumulate under the plastic and mold will not develop, which negatively affects the microclimate in the room. If the installation will be carried out on a frame, it is not necessary to additionally level the surface.
Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings
Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings
Installation of plastic panels
Step 1. Marking the walls
The sheathing should be fastened strictly according to the level, this will help to avoid distortions. In order not to measure out each rail, you should make markings on the walls. The bottom row of the sheathing should be located 1-2 cm above the floor, so mark a point on the wall with a pencil at this height, and then use a level to horizontal line around the entire perimeter. Exactly the same line is drawn under the ceiling or along the edge of the trim if the walls are not sheathed to the full height. Next, measure 40-50 cm upward from the bottom line, place a beacon, and so on until the very top. Strictly parallel lines are drawn through the beacons along the perimeter of the walls. The marking is ready.
The panels must be attached to the sheathing perpendicularly, so the horizontal frame is sheathed vertically, and vice versa. To make markup for vertical sheathing, the first line is drawn in the corner from ceiling to floor using a plumb line. Next, mark the second corner, and then draw the remaining lines in increments of 50 cm.
Step 2. Installation of the sheathing
If wood is used for the sheathing, all slats must be primed in advance. antiseptic. Along the marking lines, holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill at a distance of 50 cm, then slats are applied, leveled horizontally and secured to the wall. Where the walls are uneven, wooden wedges are placed under the sheathing. If wiring runs along the wall, it must be hidden under the trim. To do this, take measurements, drill holes in the wall and secure the wires with clamps so that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing.
Step 3. Attaching the slats
The first lamella is installed in the far corner from the entrance, which is considered the most noticeable.
Take measurements and, if necessary, cut the panel to length with a hacksaw. One edge of the panel is inserted into the side molding, applied to the corner and secured to the sheathing from the back.
The second lamella is inserted into the mounting groove of the first, the joints are pressed tightly and fixed to the frame slats.
To achieve maximum sealing of the joints, the side edges are lightly coated with silicone before insertion. All subsequent elements are mounted in exactly the same way.
For switches and sockets in panels sharp knife cut holes, and after installation close these areas plastic boxes. The last lamella most often requires cutting in width, so first try it on the wall, mark the cutting line with a pencil and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.
Step 4. Installing moldings
After installing all the elements, the surface should look monolithic and smooth, without gaps at the seams and around the perimeter. To do this, all corners, joints and connections are covered with special plastic moldings. Their design allows you to carefully insert the edges of the panels on both sides, making the corners look much more attractive.
Finally, around the perimeter of the ceiling they install decorative molding, and plastic is attached around the perimeter of the floor. At this point, finishing the walls with PVC panels is considered complete. With careful use, the panels do not lose their attractiveness for a long time and do not require repairs.
Video - Wall decoration with plastic panels
Decorating walls with plastic panels is a popular way to decorate a variety of different rooms. This material, popular these days, allows you to form unusual interiors, meeting the needs of people with different tastes.
Plastic panels - what are the advantages of facing products?
The products in question are a universal finishing material, which is made from polyvinyl chloride using extrusion technology. Its essence is simple. On special units, a thick molten mass of raw materials is squeezed out through special holes. The latter are completely identical in shape to the manufactured panel. The products obtained in this way are cooled and then cut to specified sizes.
The geometric parameters of PVC panels are standardized. Their height is 26, 27 and 30 cm, width is in the range of 20–37 cm. In thickness similar products divided into two categories - 8–10 mm and 5 mm. Wall decoration with plastic panels is characterized by many advantages:
- wide choice of decor options;
- long service life;
- easy DIY installation using ordinary tools;
- absence of dirt and dust during installation of products;
- the possibility of installation on any surface due to the arrangement of the lathing;
- affordable cost of panels;
- good thermal insulation qualities provided by the cellular internal structure of PVC products (in addition, you can additionally insulate the surface to be finished by installing a layer of appropriate material under the panels);
- Easy care that does not require the use of any special detergents.
Plastic panels for walls
It is also worth noting that polyvinyl chloride panels are resistant to abrasion and other types of mechanical stress. They are characterized by increased sound insulation, fire and moisture resistance, and the absence of substances harmful to humans in the composition of the products. The described operational advantages explain why wall decoration with PVC panels is so popular these days. Installation plastic sheathing not recommended in places where people are intended to escape from buildings in case of fire ( landings and openings). This limitation is due to the fact that polyvinyl chloride, when burned, emits strong suffocating smoke and caustic compounds into the atmosphere.
PVC products for wall cladding - choose to suit your taste
The panels we are interested in may have special properties, which makes it possible to select the optimal finishing material for different rooms in the house. Experts advise installing plastic panels on balconies and loggias of residential buildings that have increased resistance to mechanical stress and seasonal temperature fluctuations. But bathrooms are characterized by a high level of moisture resistance, they have a minimum of protruding elements (sometimes their complete absence) and at the same time have high strength.
Balcony finished with PVC panels
These rooms, as a rule, have a small area, which increases the risk of a person colliding with cladding parts. If it is not strong enough, you will have to constantly repair or replace the panels. The materials described for finishing work differ from each other in the type of their coating. From this point of view, panels are:
- With offset printing on the surface. Such products are resistant to chemicals and physical impact, as well as moisture. First, some kind of ornament or design is applied to offset panels using paints, and then they are treated with a special varnish with antistatic properties.
- Laminated. IN in this case to the surface facing material stick a special protective film. In most cases she imitates genuine leather, stone, wood. Such plastic panels not only have a chic appearance, but also differ long term operation, due to the special qualities of the film used (it is resistant to abrasion, not afraid of sunlight and water).
- With thermal printing on the surface. These products are produced using complex technology, so they have enough high cost. First, a pattern is applied to the surface of the workpieces - a thermal film is applied and pressed down with a silicone press heated to 170–180 °C. As a result of this effect, the paint transfers to the panels, which are wound onto reels in a continuous roll. Thermal printed products have unusual decor and very rich color. They are UV resistant. Please note that such products are not subject to additional varnishing. It is not necessary. They look great anyway.
A priori, high-quality PVC products cannot be cheap. Don't try to save money on finishing materials. If you purchase cheap panels, you will absolutely have to change the skin after a couple of years of its use.
Calculation of materials for installing planks - how not to spend too much?
Wall covering with plastic panels is carried out either directly on the surface to be covered (in this case, a special adhesive is used) or on a pre-mounted sheathing. The second method is used more often. It allows you to install PVC products yourself even on very uneven surfaces. We will describe in detail the process of installing polyvinyl chloride panels using both methods. But first, let's talk about how to correctly calculate the required amount plastic products, fasteners and profiles for assembling the sheathing. If you carry out the calculations correctly, you will not have to buy extra materials.
Installation of PVC panels
Deciding on the number of racks is easy. Here you need to know that the sheathing slats are always installed perpendicular to the wall finishing products used. When PVC panels are positioned vertically, the slats are attached horizontally, and when positioned horizontally, vice versa. The recommended distance between individual profiles is 0.3–0.5 m. Having decided how you will mount the panels, you can begin to calculate. Let's say you're satisfied vertical installation battens. You need to find out the number of racks required for its arrangement. Measure the length of the wall to be tiled and divide this value by the distance between the individual racks, and then add another supporting element to the result obtained (for the outermost profile).
If the wall has a length of 400 cm and a height of 300 cm, you divide 400 by 50 (the maximum distance between the supports), add one and get the number 9. It says that to arrange the sheathing you need to buy 9 racks from a hardware store (their the length will be 300 cm). You also need to add two more guides. This is due to the fact that the lathing is installed along the entire perimeter of the wall surface. The length of the guides must be equal to the dimensions of the wall being tiled. If you want to position the sheathing horizontally, the calculation principle will remain the same. But in this case, you need to focus not on the length of the wall, but on the height of the ceilings.
The number of panels is determined as follows. Measure the length of the surface and divide this value by the width of the PVC panel used. If you purchased 20 cm wide planks, you will need 20 plastic products to finish the wall. Moreover, their height must be the same as the height of the ceiling in the room. When installing the products in question without lathing, it will be correct to calculate the required quantity according to square meters. You calculate the square footage of the wall and decide on the required number of panels. Calculating fasteners also does not cause any special problems for home craftsmen who are accustomed to making different types DIY repairs. Remember - for every half meter of the length of the surface to be coated, 1 dowel-nail should be installed. This is quite enough for reliable fastening of the sheathing.
In cases where installation is performed with clamps, pay attention to the following advice. The sheathing will hold firmly if you use about 20 fasteners for each square of surface.
We make the sheathing and install the panels - how to create beauty?
The frame for installing the finishing material is installed on surfaces that have significant unevenness and height differences. In addition, what is important, it is possible to lay a layer of insulation under the sheathing. The frame can be made with your own hands from metal or plastic guides (profiles) or from wooden slats. There is no significant difference between them. These products differ only in the method of fastening the panels to the created sheathing. If you are making a metal skeleton (using aluminum guides), the first thing you need to do is install a starter U-shaped profile. It is mounted under the ceiling.
Lathing for installing panels
The second step is to install the same profile for floor surface. After this, slats are placed in the mounted profiles. The latter serve directly for fixing plastic panels. The profiles are fastened to the base using self-tapping screws or dowels. The step of their installation is 0.8–0.9 m. Wooden guides are made from bars with a cross-section of 2.5–4x4 cm. The left and right guides (vertical) are installed first. And then between them you will need to mount additional horizontal slats. Fastening of wood elements is most often done with universal self-tapping screws, stainless steel screws or staples.
Plastic frames are considered the most modern. Fungus does not appear on them, they do not rot. But the plastic sheathing can be mounted on a relatively smooth walls. If the surface has significant differences in height, it is better to equip aluminum or wooden skeleton. Plastic profiles have special fasteners. With their help, you can quickly secure the panel without using screws, dowels, or self-tapping screws. This is very convenient, especially when House master She does the wall cladding with her own hands. If necessary, panels with fasteners can be easily dismantled. However, they do not have any defects. This means that the design can be reused.
The process of installing PVC panels on the sheathing is as follows:
- Place the very first plastic product in the corner on the finishing profile or on a special corner element. The panel should be well secured (with self-tapping screws, staples, screws, depending on the type of frame).
- Take the second panel, connect the tongue and groove, and install it.
- Similarly, join all other PVC products.
You made the cladding yourself! Now you need to take care of giving the finish a completely finished look. For these purposes, floor and ceiling skirting boards, which are usually supplied with decorative plugs, and moldings. Sometimes the joints between individual plastic strips are treated with sealant.
Finishing walls without building a frame - this is also possible
If the walls in your home are smooth, you don’t have to install lathing. In such cases, the cladding is mounted directly on the surface to be finished using liquid nails or other special equipment. Important point! Choose an adhesive that does not contain solvents.
Using glue to install panels
Wall finishing without constructing a frame is carried out according to the following scheme:
- Clean the wall surface thoroughly. Remove leftovers old paint, wallpaper, other materials. You putty the wall and treat it with a primer. It is advisable that it contains antifungal additives.
- After drying the surface, proceed to installing the panels. Dilute the adhesive, apply it with a notched trowel, paint brush or with a roller on small area walls.
- Place the corner panel first, press it as tightly as possible and wait a while until the glue sets well.
- Using the same scheme, install the rest of the plastic products.
Don't forget to install decorative parts and additionally treat the gaps between the panels with sealant.
Plastic panels today are increasingly used as a finishing material for walls and ceilings. Their popularity constantly tends to grow, which is due to good performance characteristics, aesthetic appearance and simple installation work. Another significant advantage of panels of this type is the affordable price level.
How to choose plastic panels
Plastic panels can be used in rooms with high humidity without any particular concerns.
This material is resistant to aggressive environments and temperature fluctuations - suitable for. Moreover, their use prevents the formation of mold and mildew, which is important for. When choosing PVC panels, you should take into account the length and width. The surface of the material can be varnished, glossy or matte.
Another significant advantage of PVC panels is the absence of the need for careful leveling of the surface, as well as the ability to hide individual communication elements under the frame.
Photo: finishing the bathroom with plastic panels
When choosing this variation of finishing material, you should focus on the fact that plastic panels for walls and ceilings have certain differences. The former have higher weight indicators. In addition, they have a more rigid structure.
Option for finishing a bathroom with plastic panels
Plastic panels intended for finishing the ceiling have less weight. This is due to the need to carry out installation work at height. Minimum weight indicators greatly facilitate this procedure.
Finishing the walls and ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels
Along with this, plastic ceiling panels are more fragile. When performing installation work, you should be very careful, as you can easily damage the surface of the finishing material.
Wall decoration with decorative plastic panels
At standard thickness 5-10 mm, the width of the panels can vary from 25 to 50 cm. The length ranges from 2.7 to 3 m. When choosing a finishing material, you should pay attention to the quality of the color of the panel, the uniformity of the pattern and the correctness of the shapes. You should also take into account the quality of the stiffeners. They shouldn't hang around outside. The surface of the material should not contain characteristic chips and cracks.
The level of resistance of the material to deformation will depend on the quality of the density and flexibility of the PVC panel. If such a panel is tightly compressed, there should be no traces of mechanical damage on it.
Required tools and materials
When performing work on installing plastic panels on the wall and ceiling, at the initial stage you should select necessary tools and materials. To resolve an installation issue, you may need:
- PVC panels;
- drill;
- dowels;
- cord and pencil;
- perforator;
- ladder.
Moldings and corners should also be added here. By using the latter, you can achieve maximum even markings. Otherwise, when installing plastic panels on walls or ceilings, certain difficulties may arise.
Photo: plastic panels for bathroom tiles
Plastic panels are selected depending on the specific layout of the room. IN small room It is advisable to use narrow panels. If you are finishing a larger room, it is most advisable to resort to the use of wider products.
Photo: ceiling decoration with built-in lamps with PVC panels
Self-tapping screws can be used instead of dowels. They are necessary if the frame will have a metal design. Dowels are only relevant if a wooden frame is used. It should be noted here that a wooden base cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity. This is due to the fact that such material is susceptible to rotting, as well as negative influence fungi and mold. For this reason, using a wooden frame in the kitchen and bathroom is not a practical solution.
Construction of lathing for walls and ceilings
The structure of the frame is the primary issue that should be resolved when installing plastic panels on a wall or ceiling. It was noted above that a wooden or metal variation of the frame can be used as a base. Optimal distance between separate elements such a base is equivalent to 50 cm. In this way, it is possible to compensate for the uneven surface of the ceiling or walls. The recommended sequence of actions will look like this:
- Carrying out markings.
- Installation of profiles along the entire perimeter of the surface.
- Installation of transverse profiles.
- Installation of the base for fastening PVC panels.
- Installation of panels.
When marking, you should first determine lowest height ceiling. From this point on the walls you need to draw two lines. To do this, you can resort to using a cord painted with chalk. The correctness of the marking is checked using a building level.
After marking, profiles should be installed along the entire perimeter of the surface. These elements must be fixed without creating voids or gaps. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to achieve maximum reliability of the entire structure.
Profile frame for walls
After installing the transverse profiles, the task that needs to be resolved is to install the base for the panel fastenings. For fastening plastic profiles You can use self-tapping screws.
Profile frame on the ceiling
When installing a metal frame variation, you should be as careful as possible. The total weight of the structure will be quite large, so it is necessary to ensure high reliability of its fastening. Attaching hangers to concrete floors can be done by using special dowels with a head on the sleeve. Conventional dowels will fail, since concrete is characterized by the presence of internal voids.
Attaching the first panel to the frame
Holes in the metal profile can be drilled simultaneously with the preparation of holes in the wall. Provided that the frame is installed on ceramic tiles It is advisable to resort to using a hammer drill only if glue mixture completely dry. Otherwise, cracks may appear on the surface of the tile.
Features of panel installation
Or is it best to start a wall with the definition optimal length material. It is recommended that this issue be resolved in advance. To cut plastic panels, you can use a regular hacksaw.
There is nothing complicated in the installation procedure for such panels. They are first placed in the profile and then secured using self-tapping screws. It is recommended to start installing plastic panels from the corner of the room. This applies to both the ceiling and the wall. It is also very important to monitor the quality and evenness of installation of the first element. It should be located strictly perpendicular to the wall or ceiling. Otherwise, the panel will not be able to snap into the groove and there will be a need for dismantling and new installation.
Special lathing for plastic panels with fasteners
The edges of the plastic panels must fit into the slats. The last part is adjusted to optimal distance to the wall. If necessary, you can cut the panel with a regular hacksaw.
Advice! Before carrying out work related to the installation of plastic panels on a ceiling or wall, it is recommended to take care of the installation first various elements communication systems. They are able to camouflage well water pipes, electrical wiring or heating pipes.
Among the huge variety of ways of external and interior design In buildings and structures, wall decoration with PVC panels (made from polyvinyl chloride) takes its rightful place.
Not so long ago, the choice of such finishing material was not large enough. The market offered panels with a depleted monochrome (one-color) color with a predominance of white.
Currently, the color palette has been greatly enriched through the use of new dyeing technologies and the application of various designs in the form of abstract patterns or imitations of other more expensive ones. Decoration Materials artificial or natural origin.
There are many types of PVC panels. They may differ:
- by purpose - for cladding walls (thicker) or ceilings (thinner);
- in length and width;
- by type of connecting lock and method of fastening;
- by the method of drawing;
- according to the surface relief.
The design of PVC panels is a cellular-channel structure formed by upper and lower horizontal planes connected to each other by longitudinal jumpers. This design has good sound-proofing and heat-insulating properties. 
They are mainly used for cladding walls, partitions or ceilings. glazed loggias, balconies, utility rooms. You can often find ceilings in kitchens, bathrooms and toilet rooms. Sometimes they are used to decorate rooms with a humid microclimate as a budget (cheap) replacement for ceramic tiles.
They are also used for cladding and protecting the facades of buildings or their parts (for example, plinths). Such external panels can have a textured relief finishing and imitate stone, brick or even wood. For cladding the external surfaces of walls, panels with an external surface resembling a lining board with a specific seam configuration characteristic of this type of finishing are also specially produced. 
This type of cladding is not recommended for finishing residential premises or places where people spend most of the day. The inability of such a coating to transmit air and steam leads to the creation of an unfavorable microclimate in such rooms and the impossibility of creating the coziness and comfort required for human life.
Adjacent panels are connected to each other using a lock similar to a parquet tenon, which uses the elastic properties of polymer plastic and creates an almost airtight joint. The lock comes in two types - with a widened lower part, designed for direct attachment of the panel to the frame using screws or nails, and also with a thin groove on one of the side faces for attachment with special metal clamps, which, in turn, are nailed or screwed to frame. 
Sizes may vary greatly. For example, less durable panels with a thickness of 5 mm are used for cladding ceilings, and with a thickness of 8...10 mm - for cladding walls. They can be from 200 to 370 mm in width, and in length vary from 2.6 to 3 meters.
The design on the panel is applied both by hot rolling and by lamination, that is, finishing the outer front layer with a polymer film with graphic patterns. 
If the surface intended for cladding is sufficiently flat, the panels can be mounted using adhesive mastics intended for gluing products made of polyvinyl chloride. However, for greater reliability it is better to use wooden or metal frames. For the manufacture of wooden frames Square bars measuring 40 x 40 or 50 x 50 mm are suitable. For metal - use bent sheet profiles designed for installation of plasterboard sheets.
Important: before use wooden elements the frame must be treated with antiseptics.
Preparation for installation
Calculation of the material required for finishing with plastic panels
Based on the area of the surface to be covered, the required number of panels that are required to cover the walls or ceiling is calculated. That is, the finishing area is divided by the area of one element. This value is directly dependent on the size of the panels used. When purchasing, you should carefully monitor their uniformity, since colors and patterns may differ in shades from batch to batch. You can ask the seller to provide the opportunity to join several panels from different packages and see if they differ in thickness and color or pattern. 
Calculation required quantity frame elements are made according to a pre-drawn panel layout diagram. It is taken into account that the distance between these elements is taken to be close to or equal to 500 mm. Fastening and alignment of the frame elements in the plane is carried out with screws of the appropriate length, if the frame and working surface wooden. For concrete or brick walls use dowel screws installed in advance drilled holes, and for alignment and connection with walls or ceilings metal elements Perforated strips with bent ends are used.
To increase heat-protective and soundproofing properties between the frame elements you can lay mats from mineral wool or foam boards.
Which tool should you use?
The set of tools required for installing plastic panels on ceilings and walls is quite minimal:
Preparing the surface to be coated
The surface of the walls does not require any special preparation, except that if it is not covered with crumbling plaster, there are traces of soaking and there are areas affected by fungus and mold. Such defects should be eliminated, and the wall should be treated with antiseptics followed by a primer.
Wall decoration with plastic panels
Let us now consider how to properly attach plastic panels to the wall using a frame. PVC panels and the elements to which they must be attached are installed in a perpendicular direction. That is, if installing plastic panels on a wall requires a vertical position, the frame elements are fixed to the walls horizontally, and vice versa. 
The frame slats are fixed to the walls in increments of 500 mm. This size was not chosen by chance. If the step is larger, the rigidity of the cladding will be reduced; if it is more frequent, there will be an excessive waste of material. The panels are attached to the frame using nails or self-tapping screws. If the panel design does not provide for independent connection, clamps are used. Each subsequent one snaps into the lock of the previous one, creating an almost imperceptible perfect seam that does not require additional finishing. 
If the construction of the frame cannot be completed for some reason, there is nothing left but to glue the plastic panels to the wall. This is possible under one condition - the working surface should be as flat as possible. How to attach plastic with glue?
First you need to decide what to glue with. Glue or adhesive mastic must be selected so that it has good adhesion (the ability to stick) to two dissimilar materials at once - polyvinyl chloride and brick, plaster, wood or other materials that make up the surface to be finished. 
Before proceeding with gluing, the surfaces to be glued must be well cleaned, dust-free and degreased with any organic solvent. Glue is applied to the PVC sheet thin layer, after which pressing and pressing is applied to the adhesive on the slab and wall.
You can assemble a number of panels inserted into each other (up to 3...5 pieces) into a group and it can already be glued to the ceiling or wall. After installation, in order to prevent the panel from sliding down the wall under the influence of gravity, it must be fixed using specially designed and assembled devices.
To mask seams formed along the short side of panels when they are built up, or in direct and reverse corners of joints, or places adjacent to surfaces that do not need cladding - for different thicknesses sheets produce special plastic profiles of a special configuration or, as they are also called, “moldings”.