Laminate is a modern, aesthetic and durable floor covering, presented on the market by a large number of manufacturers and options that differ in design, appearance, performance characteristics and price.
Why you can't lay laminate flooring on an uneven floor
Buyers often ask whether it is possible to laylaminate flooring for uneven floors. The answer is unequivocal - it’s impossible, and for several reasons:
- with minor unevenness, the laminate can “play” under the weight of a walking person, and best case scenario the panels will simply separate at the joints, forming gaps, and the lamellas will have to be constantly adjusted to each other;
- deflection over larger irregularities can lead to fracture of the laminate locks, and then the gaps that arise during operation can only be eliminated by replacing damaged panels;
- significant defects in the base, such as large chips, cavities or swelling, lead to fracture of the panels themselves, which irreversibly damages appearance flooring and may be hazardous.
How to prepare floors for leveling
Before how to lay laminate flooring on an uneven flooror level it, make sure there are no serious defects: large cracks, cavities, swelling and chipping on the concrete base, significant deflection of the joists wooden structure, traces of dampness or mold, as well as other damage. The use of damaged floors can lead to the appearance of extraneous sounds when walking, damage to finishing coating or prove to be dangerous to life and health.
Preparing floors for leveling
Universal methods of floor leveling
Before how to lay laminate flooring on an uneven wooden flooror a concrete base, you should get rid of the detected defects, however, leveling methods vary depending on the design and material of the floor, as well as its curvature. Modern technologies They also provide universal methods for leveling floors for laying laminated panels.
Laminate underlay is an easy way to deal with minor unevenness.
Underlay for uneven floors for laminate flooringPerfect for those who are faced with minor flaws in the base. Modern roll materials made of polyurethane, polyethylene foam, natural cork, as well as bitumen-cork and bitumen-rubber mixtures, depending on the thickness of the coating, make it possible to level out unevenness up to 5 mm per linear meter(with an acceptable value of this indicator of 2mm/l.m.).
Underlay for uneven laminate flooring is perfect for those who are faced with minor flaws in the base
It should be noted that with an increase in the thickness of the bedding layer, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the lamellas in order to ensure the reliability of the locks and their strength. Iflaminate underlay for uneven floorsis not able to cover existing flaws, other alignment methods should be used.
Dry screed: how to level floors quickly and without unnecessary dirt
Installing a dry screed is a more complex and time-consuming method than using a substrate, but it allows you to bring even a very uneven floor to one level and get rid of constant slopes. Bulk materials The materials used in this method (usually expanded clay) have excellent vapor and moisture permeability, which will prevent dampness from lingering in the structure for a long time.
Dry screed is suitable for both concrete base, and for wood, however, the methods of their preparation are different. Large cracks, chips and depressions on the concrete floor are repaired. The wooden base is cleaned of excess debris and then covered chipboard sheets. Upon completion of preparatory work for bubble or laser level Beacons made of metal profiles are set to mark the height of the backfill, and then granular material is poured and distributed flush with them. Subsequently, on the already leveled surface, 2 layers with offset joints are laid gypsum fiber sheets, drywall or plywood, after which they should be glued with a special adhesive composition and connect with self-tapping screws.
Dry screed is suitable for both concrete and wooden bases
Methods for leveling concrete floors
There are 2 more methods suitable for leveling a concrete base, however, their significant disadvantages are the inevitable use of water and the need to wait for the composition to set and gain strength. Depending on the mixture used and the method chosen, this time ranges from several hours to several weeks.
Cement screed - a time-tested method
The installation of a cement screed is a method known for many decades to obtain an ideal floor level in premises of any purpose, even with significant differences in base heights.
Rack beacons are set according to the desired floor height (it is recommended to use thin metal profiles, which will not need to be removed later), original surface is cleaned of small debris and dust, after which it is filled cement mortar(you can make the mixture yourself or purchase a ready-made one), which is distributed level with the beacons. When the solution has set, you can additionally level it with a float to obtain a smoother surface. Depending on the brand of cement, installation of the finishing coating can begin after 14-28 days, when it has gained strength.
Cement screed - a time-tested method
Self-leveling screed - a modern method for those who don’t want to wait
Self-leveling screed is a more modern, faster and easier way to make the floor level. The algorithm of actions differs slightly from working with cement mortar: it is recommended to pour the leveling mixture from the highest point of the base, and after pouring and distributing it throughout the room, it must be rolled with a special aeration roller to remove air bubbles and avoid the appearance of cavities.
A significant advantage of this method is the relatively short drying time of the mixture, which is several hours (indicated on the packaging of the mixture).
The principles of leveling a wooden floor are fundamentally different from how a concrete base is leveled to the required level. Wooden floors can be leveled using materials such as plywood, OSB or chipboard. The safest, strongest and most durable is the first of them. For residential premises, sheets with a thickness of 13 mm or more are used. Algorithm for performing the work:
- Wooden floors are checked with a long bubble level. In areas where the boards stick out especially strongly, it is worth tightening them to the joists with long screws, and hammering back the nail heads that have come out. You can also trim off protruding elements with a hand plane or power tools.
- sheet material laid out over the entire area of the room to try it on, cut off excess parts, make cuts for risers and other obstacles.
- Sheets are marked around the perimeter and in the center. It is recommended to place the points where the screws will be screwed in at a distance of about 2 cm from the edge of the sheet, 15-20 cm apart. In the marked places, holes are drilled with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the screws.
- To avoid squeaking and other extraneous sounds that appear due to small debris (shavings, splinters, etc.) under the plywood, it is recommended to thoroughly sweep or vacuum the floor before installing the sheets.
- The sheets are attracted to the base sequentially; it is more rational to start from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance.
How to lay laminate flooring correctly
Even when installed on a perfectly flat floor, it is necessary to lay a backing underneath the laminate, which will significantly reduce the noise when walking, and will also allow you to distribute the load on the coating in a more gentle manner. On plank floor the substrate is laid along the floorboard, and the panels themselves, on any base, are laid across the substrate. Sheets of underlying material are connected to each other with adhesive tape (either fastening along the entire joint or pointwise is allowed), and do not require additional fixation on the existing floor.
When the leveling layer is completed and the underlay is laid, you can begin to lay the laminate. Recommendations for correct installation panels:
- thoroughly clean the floor before starting work;
- between the walls and the surface of the flooring it is necessary to leave a temperature gap of 10 to 20 mm so that the laminate can “float” freely during thermal expansion;
- in rooms of significant size there are gaps for thermal expansion it is necessary to arrange every 10 m along the direction of the panels and every 8 m - across;
- wedges for fixing gaps can be purchased in specialized kits for laying laminate flooring or made with your own hands from leftover boards or plywood;
- For lamellas that will be laid along the wall, it is worth carefully cutting off the locks on the side of the temperature gap; for this, manual and electric jigsaw, or a hacksaw with fine teeth;
- the panels are laid in strips and connected at the sides in a manner appropriate to the type of lock;
- the seams on the short sides of the lamellas are spaced at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other to avoid joints in the shape of a cross - this increases the strength of the joint, helps to avoid breakage of the locks, and makes the connection more durable;
- finished strips of panels are usually combined into assembled form, but some manufacturers use lock designs that allow several rows to be laid in parallel, which greatly facilitates installation, and the possibility of this method of assembling the coating is indicated on the packaging;
- for connecting the final elements of each row, as well as all panels in last row It is recommended to use a mounting bracket designed for installing laminate flooring.
The best option for the flooring in your home is laminate. It retains heat perfectly and dampens noise. With proper installation and care it will last a long time.
However, if you lay laminate flooring on an uneven floor, it may lose both its beautiful appearance and functionality.
You will very quickly have to think about repairs again, and this is not the cheapest pleasure.
Many problems can be avoided if you know exactly how to lay laminate flooring on an uneven floor. This is exactly what we will talk about.
Experts with extensive experience believe that laminate cannot be installed on a curved floor, so it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.
An acceptable difference may be from 2 to 3 mm per linear meter of laminate.
Uneven floor under laminate, main problems and defects
If you surf the Internet, you will find many articles and comments that some people laid laminate flooring on an uneven floor and it did not deteriorate and its service life remained within standard limits. But is it necessary to take such a risk?
We identify surface irregularities, bumps and holes
Let's look at the main types of irregularities:
Using a hydraulic level (a laser or regular level will also work), you can identify unevenness on each wall.
We mark control points with self-tapping screws to guide us. We tie the threads along the caps.
Leveling the floor
We will definitely correct the shortcomings. Features depend on the type of floor we have and the amount of unevenness on it. There are 3 options for work:
- Substrate.
- Leveling the floor.
- Flexible laminate.
Underlay for laminate flooring on uneven floors
Suitable for both concrete and wooden floors. Allows you to correct minor deviations.
When choosing a high-quality substrate, focus on the average differences in height, as well as the thickness of the laminate.
There are several types of substrates:
All have both advantages and disadvantages.
For unevenness per linear meter up to 1 mm, purchase a polyethylene foam backing.
With a spread of 2-4 mm, natural ones made from wood fibers are best suited.
The substrate also provides additional protection and insulation from noise and water.
Basics of leveling a concrete base
In case of large differences and defects, the floor must be leveled. Let's consider options for leveling concrete and wooden floors.
Leveling the concrete surface
Prepare a mixture of sand and cement 1:4, add water. Spread the resulting solution over the floor and level it well. Leave for 24 hours, and then cover with oilcloth for 15 days.
More expensive, but quick way After pouring the floor, it is completely dry after 72 hours. Using a spiked roller, do not forget to remove all the bubbles that form when pouring the floor.
We lay out the polyethylene, on top of which we pour expanded clay.
Cover with gypsum fiber boards. We drill them well with screws.
Let's level everything.
Small defects often remain and are hidden by the substrate.
Leveling a wooden floor
Four alignment options:
- use of putty;
- use of fiberboard and chipboard;
- surface scraping;
- pouring a self-leveling solution.
When the floor contains a huge number of defects, only the use of sanding machine. She's filming upper layer wood, leaving a smooth surface. Make sure that the screws and nails are located deep, otherwise you can break the machine.
Small defects and cracks can be covered with putty. Mix it with sawdust and PVA glue and cover all the unevenness.
The most unsuccessful method of leveling is laying fiberboard or chipboard. It is used when deadlines are tight. But in this case, do not forget to treat the surface with anti-rotting agents.
Self-leveling screed is the most expensive but effective option.
Flexible laminate, what is it?
This material is made of vinyl. Has the ability to absorb all irregularities. The polyurethane top layer is very durable due to the addition of aluminum oxide.
It will help to level out differences of up to 0.5 cm, and due to the locks with glue, they fit tightly and grip each other.
It is also often called a “floating floor”. IN Lately it is becoming increasingly popular, even despite its high price.
At correct installation, the floor will last quite a long time. And you will finally feel comfortable and cozy.
Laminate is a rather demanding coating that needs an even and solid foundation. Height changes, pits, bumps, cracks found on the subfloor under the laminate significantly reduce its service life. They cause unplanned additional loads on the locking connections of the planks.
Even one hole in the base will create a “failure”, upon which you will bend the laminate planks, testing the strength of the interlocking joints. Sooner or later this will lead to the appearance of visible cracks, loosening, and possibly breakage of the locks. Thus, the service life of the laminated coating will be reduced, and the appearance from the very first day will leave much to be desired. So what should you do if you need to lay laminate flooring on an uneven floor? There are two options: either apply traditional ways leveling the base, or use alternative methods, which level out Negative consequences from unevenness. Let's consider all these methods.
Method number 1. Using a leveling substrate Let's make a reservation right away: a suitable base for a laminate is considered to be a floor whose height differences do not exceed 2 mm/l.m. This acceptable standards curvatures at which the internal stresses of the coating are insignificant and do not lead to breakage of the locks. Exceeding these figures requires adjustment.
Permissible unevenness of the floor for laying laminate The easiest way to eliminate unevenness of the base is to use leveling substrates made of: polyethylene foam; foamed polystyrene; extruded polystyrene foam; polyurethane; natural cork (option - from a mixture of cork and bitumen or rubber); wood fiber boards. Any substrates existing on the market can compensate for some unevenness of the base. Leveling abilities depend on their density and thickness. For example, a regular polyethylene foam backing with a thickness of 2 mm levels the surface of the base to 1 mm/m.p. Wood fiber substrates "ISOPLAAT" or "Quiet running" are more effective. “ISOPLAAT” slabs with a thickness of 4 mm are able to compensate for differences of up to 3 mm/l.m., and with a thickness of 12 mm – as much as 5 mm/l.m.! Wood-fiber substrates “Quiet Run” have approximately the same abilities. Cork backing perfectly compensates for uneven floors Method No. 2. Leveling the base If the differences in the floor exceed the capabilities of the substrate, there is only one thing left to do - leveling. The most common bases for laminate flooring are concrete slabs or wood floors. Each of these options requires a different approach to alignment. Concrete floors In most city apartments, the “subfloor” is formed by concrete slabs. To level such a base, follow the step-by-step instructions:
1. Prepare the base Remove the old coating, clean concrete slab from debris and dust. If there are deep cracks, holes, or chips, first seal them with cement mortar. 2. Prime the surface Priming improves the adhesion of the finishing screed and the concrete base. In some cases, it is advisable to use a waterproofing primer rather than a regular primer. This is relevant when renovating kitchens or ground floors located above damp basements. 3. Perform leveling If the base is problematic, with large differences heights, it is more practical to use a regular cement screed. Prepare it yourself (the ratio of sand to cement is approximately 3:1) or buy a ready-made dry mixture. There should be enough water so that the consistency of the screed resembles very thick sour cream. Install rack beacons (preferably special metal profiles that do not need to be removed after completion of work) in increments of 0.5-1 m. This step may be larger if there is a long rule and the screed is performed physically strong man. Place the cement mortar between the guide rails, leveling the screed with the rule. After the solution hardens a little (2-3 hours is enough) cement strainer additionally leveled with a foam or wooden grater. Cement screed takes a long time to dry and gain strength. It is recommended to lay laminate on its surface no earlier than after 2 weeks.
If you don’t want to bother with a cement screed, there is a much more modern, albeit more expensive solution - to use self-leveling mixtures. Leveling mixtures are the easiest way to level a concrete floor. Dilute the dry mixture in water according to the instructions, and then simply pour it onto the base, leveling the solution with a spatula. To remove air from the mixture, roll the surface with a rubber spiked roller. This will make the floor smoother, without holes from small air bubbles on the surface. Self-leveling mixtures harden much faster than cement screed, so proceed finishing You can install laminate flooring in just a few hours. Wooden floors Leveling wooden floors follow next plan: 1. Repair existing wood flooring Inspect the wood floorboards for cracks, crevices and other defects. All this needs to be eliminated with putty. If the floorboards squeak, inspect the joists and replace them if necessary. Re-fix the boards on the joists, preferably with self-tapping screws rather than nails - this is more reliable. During this operation, some floorboards may need to be replaced with new ones.
If there are significant bumps and irregularities on the wooden floor, the situation can be corrected by scraping (grinding). Sanding machine You can rent it without any problems; you don’t have to buy new equipment for one-time work. 2. Align wooden floor After puttying and sanding, it is quite possible that your wooden floors are completely ready for laminate installation. Check the base with a level, if everything is in order, then the leveling is complete. If the unevenness is significant and it was not possible to correct them, it is necessary to lay sheets of plywood or OSB boards. Use material 15-20 mm thick. Sheets of OSB or plywood are screwed to the wooden floor with self-tapping screws, and you need to ensure that the edges of adjacent slabs are at the same level. There is another option for leveling a wooden floor - pour a self-leveling mixture on top of the floorboards. This must be done in the same way as when leveling concrete floors. In this case, you will get an even and smooth screed, ideal for laying laminate flooring. Method No. 3. Replacing chipboard or fiberboard laminate with vinyl If you do not want to carry out complex work for alignment, you can use existing alternative capricious laminate. This - the new kind floor covering, called “flexible laminate”. It, unlike the usual dies made of chipboard or fiberboard, can be laid on an existing, not sufficiently level base. Flexible laminate is available in the form of planks, each of which consists of two layers: the upper part is made of a mixture of polyurethane and aluminum oxide, the lower part is made of vinyl. The lower part is shifted relative to the upper by a couple of centimeters, forming a free space around the perimeter thin layer vinyl. Adhesive smart tape is applied to it, thanks to which the planks are glued to each other at the ends when laying. A “floating” floor structure is formed, without direct attachment to the base. Therefore, pits, bumps and cracks in the floor will not be “imprinted” on such a coating, unlike adhesive-based vinyl tiles.
Flexible laminate with adhesive locks perfectly tolerates minor unevenness of the base. A connection using smart tape is called an adhesive lock, by analogy with the Click and Lock mechanical laminate locks. However, the adhesive joint is more elastic, so it will not break on uneven floors. For example, Allure Floor vinyl laminate can withstand base differences of up to 5 mm. In this case, the resulting coating is no different in appearance from laminate or wooden parquet. And in terms of performance characteristics, it even wins. Vinyl laminate, unlike its wooden counterparts, is absolutely moisture resistant and much more durable, which is confirmed by a strength class of 42-43.
One of the main tasks at the stage of preparation for laying laminate flooring is leveling the subfloor, which is sometimes neglected in order to reduce labor costs and time.
Any unevenness in the surface on which the laminate is laid leads to internal stress. If it exceeds valid values, the floor covering begins to deteriorate, break and crack. So, when laying laminate flooring on an uneven floor, its service life will be significantly reduced, and the appearance will not be very attractive.
If there are large depressions in selected places the base under the laminate panels will have voids here and there. In this case, the load created by the body weight of a person walking or standing on the floor will not be transferred subfloor.
Laminate boards that do not have uniform support over the entire area will begin to sag over the voids. The uneven distribution of the load will be even more pronounced if there are bumps on the surface of the subfloor, for example, sagging on concrete.
Walking on a floor that bends under your feet is not very pleasant. But most importantly, load imbalance can lead to the following consequences:
- the appearance of cracks and breaks in the lamellas themselves;
- breakage of locking connections, especially if the height differences are located directly below them;
- increasing gaps between adjacent panels. Crevices not only worsen the appearance of the floor covering and make it difficult to clean. Having lost its integrity, it becomes more sensitive to moisture, joints and joints become clogged with dirt, dust, and floors begin to creak;
- if adjacent panels move completely apart, they may become at an angle to the horizontal plane, forming a hump. This is not only unsightly, but also dangerous, and there is a high risk of tripping.
Permissible curvature of the base for laminate
Unevenness of the base, height differences, and slope are identified using building level at least 2 m long, which must be applied to the subfloor in different places.
If there are gaps between the floor surface and the lower plane of the level, you need to measure their size. A skewed water bubble indicates a slope in the subfloor. For more accurate results, you can use a laser level.
The denser and stronger the laminate, the less sensitive it is to unevenness. therefore, you need to rely on the instructions in the manufacturer’s instructions, and if they are missing, on the requirements of SNiP.
- According to SNiP, the difference in height of the subfloor for laying laminate should not exceed 2 mm per 2 m, but these figures were calculated for the first generations of laminate, and with a margin.
- Many modern manufacturers indicate less stringent requirements - 3 mm per 1 m.
- The size of local differences, bumps, depressions should not exceed 3 mm.
- Spherical curvatures, holes and bumps with a smooth curvature, but covering a large area, are the most dangerous for the laminate. Cylindrical, wave-like curvatures are better compensated.
- The slope, according to SNiP, should not exceed 4 mm per 2 m of the length (width) of the room.
Possibility of laying laminate flooring on a sloped floor
Even a greater slope, if it is smooth, without bumps and holes, is not critical for the laminate. But since this flooring is laid in a floating manner, and gaps are left around the perimeter to compensate thermal expansion, after removing the spacer wedges laminate flooring may crawl towards the slope.
If sufficiently wide gaps have been left, there is a possibility that the laminate will rest against the wall on one side, and on the other its edge will not be covered by the baseboard. To prevent this, you must first place massive furniture on top, which will press the laminate to the base, and then remove the spacer wedges and install the baseboard.
So that the furniture does not interfere with the installation of the plinth, you can temporarily place it in the center of the room, and immediately after installing the plinth, move it to the desired corner.
A smooth, but too noticeable slope may not be dangerous for the laminate itself, but will lead to the collapse of furniture installed on the floor or household appliances, so it's worth eliminating.
How to level an uneven floor and eliminate slope
The method for eliminating irregularities depends on their size, the scale of the problem, as well as the base material.
Elimination of height differences
- Minor, up to 5 mm, irregularities are smoothed out using a laminate backing.
- Small local depressions are filled with putty corresponding to the type of base (for wooden floors you can use a mixture of PVA glue with sawdust, for concrete floors - a self-leveling mixture).
- Lumps (swells) on concrete floors knocked down by a hammer drill, protrusions wooden covering removed with a plane. Finish leveling is carried out using a grinding or scraping machine.
- Minor but numerous irregularities can be eliminated using self-leveling screed. This method is best suited for leveling a concrete base, but it can also be used on wooden floors, having previously laid plastic film.
- More significant unevenness in the concrete base is leveled using a cement-sand screed.
- The problem of an uneven wooden floor can be solved by placing a dry screed on top from sheet materials - fiberboard, plywood, OSB. The more unevenness, the thicker the sheet material should be. First you need to eliminate other defects, cut off large protrusions with a plane, and fill the depressions with pieces of plywood or fiberboard the right size to increase the area of support of the screed on the base. The plywood sheets laid and attached with self-tapping screws to the base are sanded on top.
Removing Slope
The slope of the concrete base is eliminated using a self-leveling, cement-sand or dry screed.
For wooden floors, there are methods that involve dismantling the floor covering or allowing you to do without it.
- A slight slope can be corrected using a self-leveling mixture, but if large slope This is unprofitable, the material consumption will be too high.
- When leveling the base cement-sand screed you need to carefully check its horizontalness with a level.
- If the ceiling height and floor level in adjacent rooms allow, you can install a raised floor on adjustable joists. The logs are mounted on racks with bolts, plywood sheets are laid on top, CBPB slabs, OSB. The floor level can be adjusted by changing the height of the bolts in the racks.
- A layer of plywood is rigidly attached to the base, and a second one is attached on top of it, so that the joints of the two layers do not coincide. Threaded bushings are installed between them, allowing you to adjust the height of the top layer.
- The wooden covering is dismantled and the height of the joists is leveled; instead of using adjustable stands, you can cut off the excess with a plane or stuff slats on top.
- On top of the base in place maximum slope a beam is attached to it, which will play the role of a log. If necessary, it is possible to install several more rows of joists different thicknesses on top of the old base. The space between them is filled mineral wool, sheets of plywood or cement-bonded particle boards are attached on top.
Bottom line
Laying laminate flooring on an uneven floor is extremely undesirable, as it leads to its premature destruction. If height differences of up to 5 mm can be partially leveled by the substrate, then for more significant deviations, laying the laminate must be preceded by serious preparatory work. To eliminate irregularities, filling of depressions, cutting or knocking down bumps, grinding the surface, different kinds screeds.
Laminate is a floor covering that has recently replaced many materials. Price category and the variety of structural patterns satisfies the needs of any category of consumers. Competent attitude towards this product finishing works will thank you during the preparation and installation process long term operation. One of the main requirements is a perfectly flat concrete or wooden base on which it is placed.
Why should you eliminate uneven floors?
The main material for the manufacture of laminate is sawdust, so its strength characteristics are not designed for additional loads. An uneven floor surface leads to deformation of the interlocking joint of the laminate, as a result of which the joints begin to separate. The panels gradually swell and become unusable. It is impossible to lay laminate flooring on a concrete floor even with the slightest irregularities, bumps and height differences.
The presence of depressions also has a negative effect. In such places the panels sag, making not very pleasant sounds when walking. In addition, any unevenness leads to the formation of cracks in the canvas.
Leveling a wooden floor
Eliminate irregularities wooden base you can do it yourself by choosing the method most suitable for your conditions:
- lay plywood;
- remove defects with an electric planer or grinding machine.
Before starting work, carefully check all wood flooring. The boards should be dry and there should be no signs of rotting. Even the slightest hint of such defects requires partial replacement of the floor. Otherwise, the boards may swell, which will lead to deformation of the laminate.
Level the floor with plywood when there are a lot of unevenness or not grinding tool. The base material must meet moisture resistance requirements. Plywood flooring has a number of advantages:
- light weight;
- the ability to perfectly level the surface;
- reduces labor costs;
- withstands heavy loads;
- affordable price;
- not demanding during operation.
Sheets of plywood are not laid entirely, but cut into pieces so that there are no long seams. First, fixing slats are installed to prevent the sheets from moving, which are laid with seams staggered. It’s better to coat the plywood itself oil paint, thus enhancing the water-repellent effect. For fastening, self-tapping screws are used, the heads of which should be deepened so that they do not come into contact with the laminate.
Having chosen the second method to eliminate uneven floors, first deepen the heads of the screws and nails. Only then grind until the surface is completely level.
Using PVA glue and sawdust
This method for eliminating unevenness in a wooden floor has been tested by time and professionals. Prepare it not very well liquid composition, mixing sawdust with PVA glue. Fix the guides exactly level on the floor, and fill the space between them with the mixture. And so two or three layers, waiting for the previous one to settle. After complete drying, lay down sheets of plywood, fixing them.
At first glance, a concrete floor is an excellent base for laying laminate flooring. However, during the work, unexpected problems arise. Or rather, you will have to feel them at the stage of operation of the floor covering, the service life of which will decrease when the base is uneven. You can check for unevenness using a building level. The permissible difference ranges from 2 mm to 3 mm. Correction is required if the barrier is exceeded.
This kind floor base most common in apartments and differs the largest number defects:
- concrete flows;
- cracks;
- plane changes;
- potholes and chips;
- peeled areas.
Each of these shortcomings requires its elimination. And the methods used to level the floor depend on the specific deficiency.
- A small number of concrete tubercles can be cut down with a chisel or sawed off with a grinder. Using a conventional cutting wheel will destroy it. For concrete, you will need a special circle, which is used when working with tiles. Large sagging can be eliminated by using a hammer drill.
- Small existing depressions are leveled by filling them mortar. If there are significant defects in the screed, the best solution is self-leveling floors. In this way it is possible to align numerous and various disadvantages. First you need to clean concrete covering from the remains of the old clean floor. Potholes, cracks, and chips are filled with cement mortar. Large swells are knocked down, small ones can be left, they will be filled with screed. Treat the prepared surface with a primer. To be sure, walk around the perimeter of the room and mark the level of the subfloor on the walls. When mixing the solution, keep in mind that the mixture should be thick. Then it will not spread, and the possibility of new irregularities appearing is excluded. Let the first layer dry. On final stage prepare a self-leveling mixture or, if possible, buy a ready-made one. The consistency should be such that the solution spreads naturally, creating an ideal smooth surface. You can lay the laminate only when everything is completely dry.
- When laying panels on concrete floors, dust appears. It's not scary when installation work, but the problem occurs in operational period. Firstly, dust from the screed settles between the joints and subsequently penetrates into the room. Secondly, its particles interfere with the tight fit of the panels, which again leads to deformation. Therefore, when installing a laminate floor, you should follow the advice of experts.
Recommendations for laying laminate flooring on a concrete base
To remove dust from the screed, treat its surface with a primer, preferably in several layers. It is recommended to lay a plastic film under the clean floor, which will protect against dust penetration and at the same time serve as a vapor barrier. This method is used to avoid moisture from concrete mortar on laminate.
Leveling a wooden floor is more difficult than concrete technological process and longer in time. One of the most simple ways To eliminate unevenness of any type of floor, it is necessary to install a leveling substrate, but this is possible provided that the errors are very insignificant. The accompanying instructions for each type of material indicate what size errors the product can eliminate. Leveling abilities depend on the thickness of the substrate and its density. Can be used for uneven concrete, wood, linoleum, plywood floors, etc.
Types of substrates:
- polyurethane;
- cork-bitumen;
- foamed polyethylene;
- natural cork.
Each of the listed materials is laid on the surface of an uneven base. If the subfloor is concrete, it is recommended to first lay a layer of polyethylene. The surface itself must be thoroughly cleaned even from small debris. First, the first row of the substrate is laid immediately before installing the laminate slabs, and each subsequent row overlaps by about 30 cm. Secure the seams with adhesive tape or tape. Neither the laminate nor the floor is attached to the substrate.
All types of such leveling materials have excellent characteristics: sound insulation, strength, softness. Therefore, it is advisable to lay a layer of substrate on the leveled surfaces.
Replacing linoleum flooring with a more modern laminate is carried out according to generally accepted principles. When the floor is level, you can safely lay the canvas on top. But if there are irregularities, you will have to rip old material, clear away contamination, and then carry out the whole series of measures, as described above depending on the type of rough foundation.
Do not speed up the process by ignoring these recommendations. The result may be partial or complete dismantling of the laminate, additional financial expenses, wasted nerves and time.
Video: how to lay laminate flooring yourself