This is not to say that flat ceilings are often found in bathhouses today. Modern construction technologies make it possible to make ceilings of better quality and faster. Such ceilings were typical for old bathhouse buildings with small dimensions.
You can also find bathhouses in which the floor ceilings are made of hewn round timber; such a ceiling no longer required additional insulation. True, it should be noted that no one in those distant times could have thought that the cheapest building material available to all classes ( natural wood) in our time will turn into a very expensive pleasure that natural lining will cost several times more than plastic.
What are flat ceilings? From an architectural point of view, these are all types of ceilings, during the construction of which the boards are laid on top (laid) on the supporting structures, rather than hemmed to them from below.
The streams can be laid directly on the walls of the log house (for small-sized rooms), on ceiling beams ceilings (the size of the rooms can increase) or on supporting slats around the perimeter of the room (for small baths). Each type of floor ceilings has individual characteristics construction, we will talk about them below.
These ceilings have both their advantages and disadvantages. You can talk about them in detail after you become familiar with the methods of construction. Let's start by degree of complexity - with a flat ceiling along the crowns, then we will tell you how to build flat ceilings along the floor beams and finish with the simplest ones - along the slats.
Let’s say right away that such ceilings will require a lot of physical labor, the ability to work with an ax and a chainsaw.
Used for small rooms, the length of the ceiling cannot exceed 2.5 meters.
Natural boards are used to cover the ceiling; the thickness depends on the length of the room. We do not recommend using thick edged boards of 50 mm; it is much more profitable to use edged tongue and groove boards with a thickness of within 25 mm.
Due to the tongue/groove connection, the loads are distributed over an increased number of boards, and the load-bearing characteristics of the ceilings are increased. And by reducing the thickness of the boards, you can save almost twice as much expensive material without reducing the load-bearing capacity of the ceilings.
There are original ones design solutions laid ceilings - they are laid with unedged sanded boards in two layers, the gaps between the uneven edges of the boards of the first level of the ceiling are covered with boards of the second level. The designs look quite beautiful, but as for their performance characteristics, it is difficult to find positive qualities in this regard.
Unedged plank ceiling
Floor ceiling along the crowns of a log house - photo
Let's consider step by step the option of constructing floor ceilings along the crowns of a log house.
The width of the area on which the boards will lie should not be less than five centimeters. Otherwise, during their fixation, the ends may crack, and this significantly reduces their load-bearing capabilities. This rule, by the way, applies to most board fastening points. We take into account that the height of the ceilings in the bathhouse varies within two meters. No one forbids making them higher or lower, but changing the height causes various consequences, both positive (it is more convenient to take the procedures) and negative (heating the bath will take more time and energy costs).
| Step, No. | Description of work | Illustrations |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1. | When the log house reaches the planned height, you need to start marking the location of the ceiling. Using a hydraulic level, make marks on two opposite ends of the room at a height of approximately 2 meters from the floor level. Beat off the lines with a rope with blue. This will be the horizontal level where the ceiling boards are located. | |
| Step 2. | Remove two opposite marked logs and move them to a level area. At the top of the log, beat off a line with a blue rope to the width of the platform. You will need to select L-shaped recesses from the log. | |
| Step 3. | Now the most difficult work begins - the manufacture of horizontal platforms. You can only work with an axe, which is very difficult and time-consuming, or use a chainsaw, which is somewhat faster and easier, but very dangerous. Gasoline saw you need to constantly keep it suspended, you will have to cut only with the end of the blade. All safety rules for working with chainsaws strictly prohibit working with the saw in this position without the teeth resting on the log being cut. |
If you don’t have a lot of practice, we strongly advise against cutting with a saw in this way. You will not only ruin the log, but also risk your health. The cut needs to be controlled both along the marked line and at the cutting depth “by eye”. It is very difficult.
If the cuts are made, insert a chisel or ax into them and begin to chop out the sawn sections of the log. The work will not go as quickly as you want, a lot depends on how accurately you made the two perpendicular cuts.
It is desirable that they are connected along the same line throughout the body of the log. But it’s hard, you need a lot of practice and experience working with a gasoline saw. Unevenness in the horizontal platform must be leveled with an axe. There is no need to achieve perfect cleanliness; small irregularities can be perfectly caulked with inter-crown insulation.
If you are afraid to use a chainsaw, chop the area with an axe. And this work requires great experience, skills and physical strength. The ax must be sharp and sharpened at the right angle. In logs of large diameter it is difficult to select the cut part; you need to make several additional cuts in each sector.
Some articles on the Internet on the topic of floor ceilings claim that the work is “very easy to do and accessible to everyone,” but you should not take these words literally and trust them unconditionally.
The work of preparing seats for ceiling boards in sawn beams is much simplified. You can use an electric portable saw for sawing.
Adjust the depth of cut and guide the saw blade exactly along the marked line. Be especially careful when starting to cut; do not dig into the wood too quickly.
It's also very important to know. All electrical tools according to the technical passport have maximum power, this power is achieved at the highest loads. Never work with such loads for a long time; they cause severe overheating of the stator and rotor windings.
If you are lucky and a short circuit does not occur, then such loads will not pass unnoticed for the tool. Overheating of the windings reduces the insulation resistance and service life electric motor decreases significantly. It is better to make several passes with the saw over the same place with a shallow cutting depth.
Important. You cannot attach rafter legs to sawn beams; you will have to put an additional one or two rows of frame. Be careful when drilling holes for the dowels, they may split the ceiling boards and you will have to replace them.
| Step 4. | Place the two removed logs in place, prepare two opposite ones, and make notches for the inter-crown joint. Make joining marks for the cut out support areas on the new logs. Check their position again with a hydraulic level and, if necessary, adjust the platforms a little. Use a rope with blue to beat off the lines. | |
|---|---|---|
| Step 5. | Remove the marked logs from the log house and place them on the prepared site. Strike a vertical line under the notch. Repeat all operations to cut down the site. Place the prepared logs in place. Check the flatness and horizontal position of the area under the ceiling boards. | |
| Step 6. | Place along the perimeter of the site interventional insulation. It can be tow, jute fiber, etc. | |
| Step 7 | Take the width dimensions of the room; if the area is made with high precision, then all the ceiling boards can be cut to the same size at once. If there are significant deviations, then the size of each board must be measured separately. We advise you not to rush and mark each board separately. Still, preparation work support platform were done manually and manual method cannot guarantee absolute dimensional accuracy. | |
| Step 8 | Nail each board separately; to improve sealing of the cracks, increase the thickness of the tow or use jute fiber in two layers. | |
| Practical advice. | Available standard rules choosing the length of nails depending on the thickness of the boards. Nails must be 2÷2.5 times longer than the thickness of the board being nailed, the diameter of the nails is regulated by state regulatory documents and depends on the length. | |
| One more tip. | If the nails are driven in close to the end, there is a risk of the boards cracking. In these places, the nails should be driven in at an angle, this allows them to pass through an increased amount of wood fiber. And this doesn't help? We advise before driving electric drill Drill holes in the boards; the diameter of the holes should be approximately one millimeter less than the diameter of the nails. This procedure may seem like it takes a lot of extra time. In practice, this is not the case; calm, rhythmic work significantly speeds up the process. In addition, the risk of boards being rejected due to cracking of the ends will completely disappear. And this is not only time, but also money. | |
| Step 9 | While nailing the ceiling, press the boards together. The last board will have to be adjusted separately in width. Carefully take measurements at the ends of the hole in the ceiling and cut the workpiece to the width. Sometimes it happens that the walls of a log house are not parallel, this is not a big deal. Cut the board at an angle and fix it in the remaining space. |
Insulation of all floor ceilings is carried out using the same algorithm. Let's first consider the stages of construction of other types of floor ceilings, and then we'll talk about insulation methods.
Prices for unedged boards
unedged board
Prices for tongue and groove boards
tongue and groove board
Video - Floor ceiling along the crowns
Bathhouse floor ceilings on floor beams
This type of flow no longer has strict restrictions on the size of the premises, universal use, makes it possible, if necessary, to quickly remake an ordinary attic space into exploitation. Some builders use this method of constructing ceilings as decorative element– the appearance of the room improves, the bathhouse resembles an ancient building.
Step 1. Prepare the ceiling beams.
It should be taken into account that these structures will be open; external visible surfaces should be carefully treated.
It must be borne in mind that the temperature and humidity in the bathhouse are high, and the use of existing paint and varnish coatings is not recommended. We recommend two ways to solve the problem.
Step 2. If the beams are round, you need to make a flat area for the ceiling boards.
There are two options for leveling the site: on a sawmill or manually with an ax. Both methods have a right to life; you need to choose the one that creates the least inconvenience. Experienced builders can carefully saw off a segment of round timber using an ordinary circular saw. To do this, a cutting line is cut, and the material is supplied only manually. Another unpleasant moment - you have to take it off protective cover safety, it significantly limits the visibility of the cut line. And working without it is highly not recommended. For your information, all woodworking tools operate at high speeds; according to statistics, carpenter injuries are one of the first in terms of the severity of the consequences of injuries among other working specialties. Always remember this, don't feel like an ace after a few hours of work. We are not saying that tools should be feared, we are calling for respect.
Step 3. Install the ceiling beams into place in the frame. Carefully check the height of each on the upper planes. Not along the lower planes, as is done when installing beams for cladding the ceiling from below, but precisely along the upper ones. The distance between the beams is at least one meter, otherwise they will visually significantly reduce the height of already low baths.
Step 4. Lay the ceiling boards on the beams one at a time. For a steam room, it is advisable to use tongue and groove materials, they have best characteristics tightness. Even after significant changes in size, the tongue/groove connection does not allow through gaps to appear in the ceiling.
Various boards can be used, the thickness is selected taking into account the distances between the beams.
Prices for timber
Video - Floor ceiling on beams
Video - Installation (installation) of wooden floor beams
They occur extremely rarely, most often during the conversion of existing small premises into baths. They greatly simplify and speed up the work; attic spaces cannot be used. Making such ceilings is easy. First, you need to use a hydraulic level to measure the height of the ceilings on the walls of the room and mark horizontal lines according to the level.
It is better to lay the boards on the short side of the room; any edged material can be used. The length of the boards cannot exceed 2÷2.5 meters; additional noticeable loads on the ceiling are prohibited. The floorboards are laid on wooden slats, firmly fixed with nails or self-tapping screws on the walls of the bathhouse. In order to eliminate the possibility of cracking of the slats before fixing, it is recommended to drill holes in them, the diameter of the holes is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw or nail. The distance between the holes is within 25÷30 centimeters.
To improve the appearance of the slats, they can be processed with a shaped cutter, but the resulting profile should not significantly reduce the strength of the material. The boards are fastened one by one from the side of the room; it is necessary to ensure that the screws for fixing the boards do not fall into the places where the slats are attached to the wall of the bathhouse.
Insulation of flat ceilings
Due to the fact that most attic rooms of bathhouses with flat ceilings are not planned to be used, the insulation process is somewhat simplified: the insulation layer is not covered by floor coverings. The following materials can be used for insulation:
- rolled or pressed mineral wool.
An excellent insulator, in all respects it fully meets existing requirements. It is sold in thicknesses of 50 mm and 100 mm; for effective thermal protection of bath rooms, it is necessary to insulate with a layer of at least 100 mm. Specific values are selected taking into account the climatic zone of the building’s location;
- polystyrene foam and its “relatives”.
The price is much cheaper than mineral wool, and its thermal conductivity is almost equal to it. The main disadvantage is the release of harmful chemical compounds into the air. In the case of insulation of suspended ceilings, this drawback does not play a role; harmful connections flow warm air rise to the roof and are taken out into the street. But polystyrene foam has another unpleasant problem - it is damaged by rodents, and the likelihood of rodents appearing in the bathhouse is very high;
- bulk insulation - expanded clay, foam chips, etc. They have the lowest prices, but also the lowest heat-saving characteristics. Used in pure form Rarely, construction technologies recommend using them as components of complex insulation pies for various surfaces.
For all insulation, protective vapor barriers must be used; warm steam should not disappear into the insulation. As a vapor barrier, you can use both modern expensive coatings and cheap polyethylene film.
The insulation on laid ceilings is not closed, which allows it to dry out relatively quickly even in the event of condensation.
Prices for mineral wool
mineral wool
As you can see, “easily and quickly” you can only make floor ceilings using slats. But their quality and reliability are the lowest; if it is possible to install more reliable ceilings, do not use this method. During any construction of a bathhouse, you need to look several years ahead. No one knows how conditions may change, how the owner will want to reconstruct the structure, and this method narrows the possibilities of reconstruction.
The only way to make the attic space usable in the future is by laying ceilings on the floor beams; this is the most practical way production of work. All other methods exclude increasing the area of premises or this will require significant additional costs.
Flat ceilings do not have high load-bearing characteristics, this can cause difficulties during insulation work. We strongly do not recommend testing their strength “experimentally”; it is better to increase the area and uniformity of the load, distribute it from one board to several. This is easy to do - place pieces of boards about a meter long under your feet, one piece of board should lie across several ceiling ones. Such a simple solution will evenly distribute the load across several ceilings, which guarantees their integrity.
Keep in mind that it is impossible to make a hole into the attic in flat ceilings; the attic space will always be completely free. This is very inconvenient; quite a lot of utensils, brooms, etc. are stored in bathhouses in the attics. In addition, problems arise if it is necessary to conduct an audit of the condition rafter system or detecting leaks in roof coverings.
To the one who starts self-construction baths on your site, you will have to take into account a huge number of specific nuances of this building. All of them, to a large extent, are associated with the peculiarities of operation - frequent temperature changes with a very large amplitude, and high levels of humidity. Thus, all bathhouse designs buildings must have operational qualities, which make them able to withstand such extreme influences.
DIY bathhouse ceiling
The bath ceiling is no exception. Moreover, the influence of humidity on it is especially critical, since hot air and steam always tend to the top, and usually the highest temperatures and humidity levels are observed in the ceiling area in the steam room or washing room. For those new to construction who decided to make a bathhouse ceiling with their own hands step by step guide simply necessary. It is these issues that this publication is devoted to.
There are several basic ceiling designs for a bath - all of them will be discussed below. But no matter which one is chosen as the base one, they all must meet certain requirements:
- Any ceiling is a fairly massive structure, especially if the attic of the bathhouse is planned to be used as a utility room, utility room, or even as an additional utility room. areas - attics. Thus, the ceiling design must be highly reliable in terms of resistance to mechanical loads. Even if the attic will not be used for moving people or placing certain objects, the ceiling must still withstand both its own weight and the load of the insulating layer - this is a key rule for the safe operation of any room in general.
One of the key requirements is reliable thermal insulation
- Bath procedures will only bring health benefits if an appropriate microclimate is created in the premises. The ceiling is the structural element of any building through which very large heat loss is always possible. In order not to have to spend an incredible amount of fuel to maintain the desired temperature, while mostly “heating the street,” it is necessary to provide the ceiling with the most reliable thermal insulation.
- The materials used for the ceiling structure should not be afraid of dampness and elevated temperatures. What to do? After all, for this in the overwhelming majority of cases it is used natural wood? There are solutions to this problem - the use of certain species of timber and special processing parts with compositions that dramatically increase the resistance of the material to moisture and biological decomposition processes.
By the way, many of the modern impregnations provide another useful result. They contain special flame retardant additives, which significantly increase the resistance of wood to fire - this is extremely important for a bathhouse.
- One of the main “enemies” of wood is high humidity, and in the bathhouse you can’t go anywhere without it. In order to protect the wooden load-bearing elements of the structure from moisture penetration to the maximum, you will need reliable hydro- and vapor barrier. At the same time, condensation should not be allowed to accumulate in the thickness of the wood or insulation material. This means that it is necessary to provide for the possibility of free release of water vapor upward into the atmosphere.
The water vapor barrier is shown at the top, and the diffuse membrane at the bottom.
Prices for water vapor barrier
water vapor barrier
This is ensured by the use of special roll coverings, membranes, and each layer must be located strictly in a certain place, otherwise the desired effect cannot be achieved.
- And finally, it will be a pleasure to spend time in the bathhouse if the ceiling is also beautiful. Perhaps some home craftsmen classify this requirement as an excess, but still the decorative qualities of the walls and ceiling covering baths are a kind of “calling card” of the owners, and finishing issues should not be discounted either.
Now let's move on to consider the main structures of the bath ceiling - hemmed, floor and panel type.
false ceiling
This design is used most often. It is quite simple, understandable, meets all the requirements, and allows you to use the attic space as a useful area.
The basis for the installation of such a ceiling system are beams attic floor. All other details, both above and below, are based precisely on them. The convenience of the design is that there are no restrictions on the length and width of the room. It is assumed that the floor beams are installed according to the developed project, with the required beam cross-section (or log diameter) and with the required pitch. Thus, it is possible to completely transform the ceiling into a full-fledged interfloor covering, opening up opportunities for useful use of the attic.
A suspended ceiling can be schematically represented as follows:
1 – main walls of the bathhouse. It is clear that natural wood is most often used, and in this diagram a monolithic wall is shown only for simplicity.
2 – attic floor beams. Before installing the ceiling, they must be firmly fixed to the walls with insulation of the joints adjacent to them.
3 – ceiling lining boards. In this option, shown in the diagram, they simultaneously play the role of the finishing surface of the ceiling, although this is not always the case.
4 – layer of water vapor barrier. It is optimal if a special water vapor proof membrane. It’s even better if it has a foil layer facing downwards - this is an additional barrier to moisture and a reflective surface that prevents heat loss.
5 – a layer of thermal insulation materials laid between the floor beams.
6 – vapor permeable a membrane that does not allow water to penetrate into the insulation from above, but does not interfere with natural vapor exchange - that is, it allows the ceiling structure to “breathe”, getting rid of accumulated moisture.
7 – attic floor boards.
Perhaps the main disadvantage similar design false ceiling requires a significant consumption of lumber and is quite labor-intensive to install. However, we should not forget that “two birds with one stone” are killed at the same time - at the exit there is an insulated bath ceiling and an almost finished attic (attic) floor.
With proper planning, why not. It is extremely convenient - after bath procedures, without going outside, you can go up to a full-fledged relaxation room.
The project is small; the reader can get acquainted with it in a special article on the portal.
Carrying out installation work
The work is carried out in the following order:
- If the floor beams have not yet been treated with special protective impregnations before their installation, now is the time to eliminate this shortcoming. Particular attention is paid to the end facets of the beams - here you can not spare three layers of primer.
- In the case when the ceiling is installed in the room where the sauna stove-stove will be located, you should immediately provide a passage place chimney. To do this, two jumpers are installed between the beams, which will limit the rectangle or square required for installing the pass-through metal box.
Values A and B must correspond to the dimensions atnewfound or a self-made box - this will largely depend on the diameter of the chimney pipe.
This “outlined” square temporarily falls out of the scope of work - it will not be covered with boards either top or bottom, no membranes will be laid in it and no insulation will be laid in it.
- The next step is to attach a hydraulic vapor barrier membrane from below to the floor beams over the entire area of the room. It should extend approximately 200 mm onto the walls on each side - this will be required to create a unified water vapor barrier system for the room.
Optimal choice- a special roll material designed specifically for these purposes. If this is not possible, it is permissible to use dense polyethylene with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, but the quality of the insulation will not be the same. The strips are attached to the floor beams in such a way that an overlap of at least 200 mm is created, which must be glued with waterproof tape.
If foil material is purchased, then it is placed with the shiny side down, and the overlaps are glued with a special aluminized with tape.
- Only now can you move on to lining the ceiling with boards. At least two options are possible here.
The first is as shown in the diagram above. Hemming boards, provided that they are high-quality material (best of all, tongue-and-groove), will immediately serve as a decorative covering. They are attached to the floor beams, which in this case are a kind of “lags”. For fastening, use either nails or self-tapping screws of the required length. Self-tapping screws look preferable, since they hold suspended boards more reliably, and installation does not require impact forces, which are not entirely “useful” for floor beams.
However, this method is used infrequently - it turns out to be quite expensive, since a good tongue-and-groove board 20 ÷ 25 mm thick is not cheap. In addition, it is advisable to create a small air gap between the waterproofing and the front cladding. This means that for the initial filing you can use third-rate material, which will simply create the basis for the insulating layer laid on top. And from below we get a slightly different design:
1 – walls.
2 – floor beams.
3 – layer of water vapor barrier, the same as in the previous case.
4 – rough filing boards (rolling). Material of not the highest decorative quality is quite appropriate here.
5 – layer of foil roll insulation. This is another waterproofing barrier, plus it creates a “thermos” effect in the room, which is very important, in particular, for a steam room.
6 – a layer of foil insulation is pressed against the rolling boards with counter-battens, which are placed perpendicularly, with the necessary spacing (400 ÷ 600 mm) for installing the lining.
7 – natural lining, which becomes the front covering of the bathhouse. It is usually used on the ceiling and walls.
Prices for wooden lining
wooden lining
When the covering of the ceiling surface is finished, insert the passage box for the chimney pipe and attach it to the ceiling covering.
After the lower part of the ceiling is sheathed, you can move to the attic for further work.
- The next step is laying the insulating layer. And here it is important to make one very important remark.
Often in publications on bath ceilings you can find recommendations to first hem the bottom boards, and then lay a water vapor barrier film on top, along the flooring and along the beams. Let's look at the diagram - it would seem that everything is exactly the same as above. But the error is shown here - it is highlighted with a red arrow.
If you lay vapor barriers in this way, it turns out that the floor beams have no protection from moisture rising from above. Moreover, the possibility of moisture evaporating upward into the atmosphere is completely excluded, that is, the beams will not dry out even when the bathhouse is not in use. Unfortunately, this error “walks” across the Internet, is replicated, and as a result, the master who applied such a scheme dooms the ceiling structure to fragility.
The same error - in the photo
The ceiling facing boards will in any case come into contact with steam, but they are easy to replace as they wear out. But the beams play a load-bearing role, and if the process of rotting or fungus forms in them, then the strength of the structure will be in big question, and renovation work"They'll cost a pretty penny."
The beams must remain open at the top - then with proper insulation organization excess moisture will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
Mineral wool is very often used as bathhouse ceiling insulation - it is safe from a fire point of view, harmless to humans (if used stone wool. Glass wool or slag wool is undesirable in baths). The insulation mats are spread between the floor beams so that they fit as tightly as possible, leaving no gaps.
Expanded polystyrene, widely used in construction practice, should not be used to insulate a bath ceiling. Firstly, the material is not designed for high temperatures, and with strong heating it can become deformed and “float”. Secondly, there are a lot of questions about polystyrene foam and environmental friendliness - over time, its decomposition with the release of toxic substances is inevitable. And thirdly, expanded polystyrene cannot be classified as non-combustible materials, but for a bathhouse this is extremely important.
Often, to insulate the ceiling, expanded clay backfill is used between the floor beams, with a thickness of about 100 ÷ 150 mm. The method is not bad, but only if high-quality expanded clay is used, since you can find very critical reviews from people who used inexpensive material, and not happy with the results.
The old “old-fashioned” methods of insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse do not lose popularity either. So, usually during the construction of a log house a lot of shavings and sawdust remain. And this is a very good insulation material. Under normal conditions, they are poured dry into the space between the beams, but for a bathhouse it is better to make a dense wet mortar using cement or clay. You can look at this as an example:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The ceiling below is completely lined with clapboard. Between it and the ceiling tanks there is an appropriate water vapor barrier layer. |
 | A passage box has been installed, and in this case the chimney pipe has already been installed. |
 | The same box is a view from the attic, filled with expanded clay, which acts as a thermal insulation “cushion.” |
 | It is assumed that the wet solution will be backfilled, so the cells between the floor beams must be additionally closed with pieces of film water vapor barrier. You can additionally lay dry cardboard underneath them. The beams themselves remain open at the top. |
 | Surely, there are gaps in the coating - for example, in places where cables or other communications pass. In addition, there may be gaps in the joints of the beams. |
 | First of all, you can use polyurethane foam seal all cracks and gaps, blocking possible cold bridges. |
 | Now you can prepare the insulating composition. To do this, about one ladle (1.5 dm³) of dry cement is added to two buckets of dry sawdust. |
 | Topped up required amount water. You need to be very careful with this - the solution should not turn out liquid. The required consistency is semi-dry, so that when squeezed in a fist, a lump forms, but without releasing water. |
 | The mixture is mixed - this will be most conveniently done using a construction mixer. For large volumes, you can also use a concrete mixer, then feeding the finished mixture to the top. |
 | The finished composition is poured between the floor beams. |
 | You can distribute it using a trowel - in an even layer of equal thickness. There is no need to compact the solution. |
 | Usually the layer is brought to the top edge of the beams - it turns out to be approximately 100 ÷ 150 mm, which will be sufficient for high-quality insulation of the bathhouse. Sometimes the work is carried out in layers, gradually bringing the thickness of the insulation to the desired level, allowing the laid layers to set and dry. |
Chopped straw is sometimes used instead of sawdust, although in this case it is better to use a clay solution.
What kind of insulation neither used, after laying it, it is recommended to secure it to the floor beams steam-permeable diffuse membrane. The properties of this material are such that moisture from above cannot enter the insulation, and water vapor escapes freely. Such natural ventilation prevents the formation of condensation and a decrease in insulation properties.
The action of a diffuse membrane - water is retained and steam passes through
Once the membrane is laid and stapled to the beams, you can proceed to laying the attic floor boards, if planned. Usually, with hemmed ceiling types, attic floors are always made full, the room can be used, and the insulation will receive protection from mechanical damage.
Video: an interesting technique for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse
Floor-type bath ceiling
This type of ceiling is much easier to install and requires much less lumber. However, it is not always possible to apply it.
Flat ceiling - on a miniature model of a bathhouse
A flat ceiling will be appropriate only for small rooms - 2, maximum 2.5 meters. In this case, the flooring boards should have a thickness of about 50 mm. As a rule, using the attic as a usable area in such cases is not considered - the floor will not have the necessary strength. But the insulation process is also significantly simplified - the thermal insulation material itself does not require additional protection above.
An approximate diagram of a flat ceiling is shown in the figure:
1 – walls. The distance between the main walls is no more than 2500 mm (light partitions are not taken into account).
2 – flooring boards, which are attached with nails or self-tapping screws directly to the wall beam. Board thickness - no less 50 mm, the width of its approach to the wall is the same - 50 mm. A good quality planed board is suitable for these purposes, which can be laid tightly one to the other, without gaps.
3 – layer steam and waterproofing– no different from the one mentioned above.
4 – insulation material. Almost anyone can use it. However, if bulk is used, then it will also be necessary to make partitions from bars (item 5, shown in dotted lines, as an optional element) so that the backfill still has the required uniform thickness.
By the way, in this case, homemade mats, sewn from waterproof film and filled with available insulation material, are often used as thermal insulation. For example, it could be padding polyester waste, dry pine needles, etc.
Since there is no expected movement in the attic, it is not necessary to lay a floor on top of the insulation layer.
Under number 6 showing layer vapor permeable diffuse membrane. In this case, this is also not mandatory. If the roof structure is made according to all the rules, then such a membrane is already used for roofing material, and free steam exchange will be ensured. A reliable roof covering should completely prevent direct ingress of water, and since the attic is not used for economic or domestic purposes, an accidental water spill is extremely unlikely. So you can save a lot of money on this.
Ceiling boards often immediately play the role of a finishing surface. If there is a need, for example, when finishing a steam room, to add thermal insulation, then you can do the same as in the case of a false ceiling - fill counter slats perpendicularly, which will press the foil material to the surface, and then lay natural lining.
Video: example of installing a flat ceiling
Panel ceiling
The design of such a ceiling to some extent combines the features of a floor and hemmed design. The ceiling surface is assembled on the ground, the process of insulation and waterproofing can also take place here, and then the finished panels are raised to a height and mounted on the upper crown of the walls.
What do these panels usually look like? These are knocked together panels, the basis of which consists of two beams located parallel at a distance of 500 mm from one another. The cross-section of the beam depends on the length of the span, but it is usually taken equal to 50 × 100 mm - this allows you to achieve high strength of the ceiling structure - it will serve as a floor for an attic or attic. And, at the same time, 100 mm is a sufficient thickness for complete insulation.
The bars are laid out parallel on a level stable foundation at a distance of 500 mm on the outer sides, align the edges. Then they are stuffed with pieces of boards about 25 ÷ 30 mm thick and 600 mm long. The width of the board does not matter - as a rule, leftover lumber is used, which, by the way, allows you to seriously save on such a ceiling. Each board is attached to the beam with two nails to ensure the immobility of the structure. The boards are placed in such a way that they protrude equally on the sides of the shield by 50 mm.
After the panel is knocked together, it is turned over with the beams facing up. Using staplers, a water vapor barrier film is attached to its inner surface (shown by an arrow). Please note that the top of the beams remains open.
If there are enough working hands, or there are lifting devices that will help raise the panel to a height, then you can immediately insulate the panel right there on the ground (if, of course, we are talking about rolls or mats thermal insulation material). For example, laying mineral wool will not weigh down the panels too much - but there will be no need to carry out this work in the attic.
The insulation mats are laid tightly in the gap between the beams, covered with a membrane. In order for the resulting structure to gain the additional rigidity necessary to raise it to a height, 2 ÷ 3 oblique temporary jumpers made of boards are installed.
1 – mats (blocks) of insulation material – mineral wool.
2 – temporary “oblique” jumpers for lifting panels onto the walls.
Prices for mineral wool
mineral wool
The panels rise to the installation site. This can be the upper plane of the crown, or a horizontal stepped groove on it selected specifically for the panel structure. Another option is to attach a beam with a thickness of at least 50 mm to the perimeter walls, which will become a “shelf” for installing finished panels.
In any case, the place where the panels are laid needs an insulating seal. Typically, jute felt tape is used for these purposes - it will perfectly cover the gaps between the wall and the panels.
The panels are laid close to one another, and temporary jumpers are removed. After joining between the panels, based on their design, a gap of 100 mm wide remains. It was left there for a reason: its purpose is to insulate joints.
1 – wall.
2 – felt tape, sealing the junction of the wall and panels.
3 – finished panels with temporary jumpers already removed.
4 – cut strip of thermal insulation material.
5 – boards fixing the panels to each other.
In each of these openings at the junction, the same water vapor barrier film is first laid along the bottom and walls. A wide strip is then cut from the mineral wool slabs and placed into the opening as tightly as possible (shown by the wide green arrows). Thus, the cold bridge at the junction will be securely closed.
All that remains is to fix the panels together. First, a diffuse membrane is spread over them, which is attached to the bars with brackets. Then a solid board with a thickness of at least 30 mm is laid - preferably along the entire length of the room, that is, in total it should hold everything together at once installed panels. It is nailed (screwed) to each bar. The same board is immediately placed on the opposite side panel ceiling. Then you can sheathe the resulting surface with a short board, 600 mm long - this will form the attic floor. At the same time, do not forget that the long boards connecting the panels must run not only along opposite walls, but also between them, with a step of no more than 1000 mm.
From below, the ceiling can be sheathed with clapboard, using the same technology mentioned above.
The advantages of this ceiling installation method:
- The main assembly and even insulation is carried out in comfortable and safe conditions- on the ground.
- The construction turns out to be durable - this is a full-fledged insulated ceiling for the attic, which can be usefully used.
- This ceiling can be installed in rooms of almost any reasonable size.
The disadvantages include:
- A very large-scale scope of work.
- The need for lifting devices or equipment, or the effort of several people.
- The installation of such a ceiling must be carried out before installing the rafter system - and this is not always convenient from the point of view of organizing construction.
So, the main types of wooden ceilings for baths were reviewed, and technological recommendations for their installation were given. You should carefully study all the advantages and disadvantages of each system in order to assess the possibilities of its installation in relation to the specific conditions of the existing bathhouse, and weigh your capabilities, both from the point of view of the necessary construction skills and from the standpoint of material costs. You cannot make mistakes in such matters - a poor-quality ceiling will certainly have a negative impact on the comfort of bath procedures, and its alteration is an extremely difficult and costly undertaking.
Quite often when visiting construction sites you can come across the phrases next type: “installation of floors is the most important part of the work” in an article about floors or “insulation of walls is the main task” in the case of walls. In fact, it is a bit of an amateur approach to determine the most important elements or structures of a building. Any experienced and practicing builder understands perfectly well that it is the competently executed combination of all parts of the structure that allows its high-quality and comfortable operation.
Therefore, it is quite fair to say that the ceiling for a bathhouse is no less important than the floor or walls. This article is dedicated to its device.
Requirements for the ceiling of the bath
Before describing how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to understand the requirements that apply to it. The main feature of the bath ceiling directly follows from the conditions of its operation, and they can truly be called extreme. This is not at all surprising, since it is not uncommon for the temperature in the steam room under the ceiling to reach several tens of degrees plus, and literally a couple of meters above there is snow and the temperature is minus thirty.
Based on such harsh operating conditions, for a long and reliable service of the ceiling, it is necessary that it meets the following basic requirements:
- the ability to retain heat inside the bathhouse;
- protect from moisture from inside or outside thermal insulation material;
- have sufficient strength and reliability of the structure;
- have a sufficiently long service life without the need for repairs.
Despite the fact that the given list of requirements for the ceiling looks quite impressive, it is quite possible to create a ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands without the involvement of highly qualified professional builders. To do this, you must strictly follow the recommendations and observe the sequence and technology of work.
Bath ceiling height
Determining the height at which the ceiling in the bathhouse will be placed is one of the issues that influences the choice of design and material from which it will be made. There are no clearly established standards determining the height of the ceiling. It is influenced by several factors.
Firstly, the height of those who will use the steam room. Secondly, the size and height of the shelf on which the steamer is usually placed. Thirdly, the method that will be used. If you steam while standing, the size should be larger. Fourthly, in the case of building a bathhouse from timber or logs, you should take into account the likely shrinkage of about 10-15 centimeters, which will slightly increase the size of the steam room.
Based on the experience of building and operating baths, usually the ceiling height of a steam room does not exceed 2.4-2.55 m. This is quite enough for even a fairly tall person to steam comfortably and conveniently. Making the steam room larger is not advisable, since in this case it will be more difficult to heat the bath and retain heat in it.
Types of ceilings used in baths
Before you make a ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to decide on its design. There are three main types of ceilings for bathhouses, differing in design and technology for constructing them:
- false ceiling;
- floor ceiling;
- panel ceiling.
Bath ceiling
The false ceiling has a fairly simple design, the basis of which is formed by ceiling beams. Boards are attached to them from below, usually edged or tongue-and-groove, on which vapor barrier, insulation and waterproofing are performed. The structure is also covered with boards on top.
The advantages of a false ceiling are beyond doubt - reliability, clarity and simplicity of design, which ensures compliance with all necessary requirements, presented to the ceiling of the bathhouse. In addition, it is quite simple to make such a ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands.
The disadvantage of a false ceiling is the use of beams made of large-section timber, the size and weight of which lead to an increase in material consumption and load on bearing structures, as well as some increase in construction costs.
Bathhouse floor ceiling
The design of a flat bath ceiling is even simpler than that of a hemmed ceiling. It is a flooring made of boards, on top of which steam and heat insulation is performed.
Despite the undoubted simplicity and low cost of the design, its disadvantages are quite significant. This is also the impossibility of using a span more than 2.5 m wide, since the design does not provide load-bearing beams. This includes the lack of additional waterproofing of the insulation, which is defenseless against moisture formed in the attic.
Bath panel ceiling
The panel ceiling of the bathhouse is a structure assembled from individual panels. Each panel is a kind of trough made of boards, on the bottom of which layers of steam, heat and waterproofing are laid. To ensure the necessary properties, a layer of moisture-resistant heat-insulating material is also laid between the panels.
The advantage of this design is that it allows the use of cutting boards, the size of which does not make it possible to use them elsewhere and which are always available, which reduces the cost of construction. The disadvantages include the rather large mass of each panel, which makes it difficult or even impossible to carry out the work alone.
Materials used
Regardless of the chosen ceiling design, the main materials used remain virtually unchanged. Therefore, it would be quite logical to consider the features of each of them, as well as the nuances of performing the work.
Hemming the ceiling
The ceiling is hemmed, most often, from edged or tongue-and-groove boards. This material is responsible for the attractive appearance. Therefore, when choosing a material, it is necessary to first control this parameter.
When performing hemming work Special attention is devoted to the installation of the first board. The perpendicularity with respect to the walls of the remaining ceiling boards, adjusted to the first one, depends on its correct position. When compacting the boards, a mallet is used; they are fastened to the ceiling beams with ordinary nails.
Vapor barrier
The main purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moisture vapor from entering the insulation, which leads to a rapid loss of its properties and subsequent failure of the entire structure, which will inevitably lead to serious costs for necessary repairs. Vapor barrier is of particular importance in the bathhouse, where there is almost always high humidity.
More recently, roofing felt and glassine were used as vapor barrier materials. But currently there is huge selection modern materials, which are slightly more expensive in cost, but immeasurably higher in performance characteristics and service life. The simplest vapor barrier material can be ordinary polyethylene film. but its use has certain disadvantages. These include the possibility of education with outside condensation that can get into the insulation, as well as the often created greenhouse effect in the room.
Higher quality materials are widely used in Lately penofol, isospan or nanoisol, modern membrane materials. The most ideal option for a bathhouse is a vapor barrier material with a foil-coated coating applied to the inside. It has an additional unique effect that reflects heat into the room. Similar coatings are applied to various vapor barrier materials, in particular, the already mentioned penofol.
The vapor barrier is fastened using a conventional construction stapler with mandatory subsequent sealing of the fastening points.
Insulation
In the vast majority of cases, one of the three most popular options is chosen as insulation:
Waterproofing
In most cases, ordinary polyethylene film is used as additional waterproofing necessary to protect the thermal insulation material. The use of more expensive and high-quality materials is not practical, since the design of the bathhouse ceiling does not impose any special requirements in this regard.
Conclusion
Properly chosen ceiling design and subsequent correct execution works on its installation using high-quality and modern building materials- a guarantee that the ceiling will last a long time and will contribute to the pleasure and benefits gained from repeated visits to the bathhouse.
Based on information from various sources, and also taking into account the practical experience of private property owners, many believe that the process of constructing a particular outbuilding is not difficult at all. In particular, this applies to the bathhouse. In general, this conclusion is correct. However, at one or another stage of work there are nuances that must be taken into account. Regarding the construction of a bathhouse, it should be noted that in most cases difficulties arise when installing a ceiling in it. Later in the article we will look at how to avoid problems during this work.
Primary requirements
Are you looking for information on how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse? First of all, you need to understand what properties this overlap should have. First of all, it should be noted that indoor humidity is almost constantly increased. This means that the ceiling in the bathhouse (a photo of the ceiling can be seen in the article) must have high waterproofing characteristics. The heat-saving properties of the structure are also important. It is also necessary that the ceiling can withstand various weight loads. How to make it meet all of the above requirements? More on this later.
Design Features
Speaking about how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse, it must be said that the ceiling is installed in several stages. Optimal height on which it should be located is considered 2.1-2.3 m. To prevent negative impact moisture and in order to prevent heat from passing through the ceiling, you need to properly make the ceiling in the bathhouse. This means that the structure must be multi-layered:
- Boards (they are used to finish the attic floor).
- Parchment or film (waterproofing layer).
- Expanded clay or cotton wool. These materials are used to lay the thermal insulation layer.
- Film or parchment (vapor barrier).
- Finishing.
This ceiling design is used in all three options for its construction:
- in a binder;
- flooring;
- panels.
What is the ceiling in the bathhouse made of?
The covering material must be natural. The ideal option is, of course, wood. Most often, the bathhouse ceiling is constructed from aspen and larch. All elements, of course, must be treated with protective compounds and free from defects (knots and cracks). Boards should be purchased dry, but not overdried. Next, we’ll look at how you can build a bathhouse ceiling with your own hands.
Hemmed structure: installation features
In this case, the ceiling in the bathhouse is fixed to the supporting frame with your own hands. It, in turn, consists of floor beams. The remaining parts of the multilayer floor are mounted to the frame. To the supports with inside The rooms are nailed in a continuous row of tongue-and-groove or edged boards. Insulation is also placed in the resulting “pockets”. The structure is covered at the top waterproofing film. The last stage ceiling construction is the covering of the upper parts of the beams in the attic with boards.
Design advantages
A do-it-yourself bathhouse ceiling constructed in this way (a photo of this type of ceiling can be seen in the article) is optimally suited for construction with an attic. All work can be done independently, without involving outside help. The scheme is quite simple. To implement it, there is no need to use special equipment or have special knowledge.
Disadvantages of overlap
Among the disadvantages it should be noted high cost such a ceiling. In this case, most of the budget will need to be spent on purchasing massive elements. In addition, you will need quite a lot of long boards.
Panel construction
This ceiling is constructed from separate panels. They fit close to each other. An elastic gasket is placed between them, which acts as a waterproof insulation. To manufacture each sector, a template is used, consisting of two load-bearing bars. A series of tongue-and-groove or edged boards are placed on them. A vapor barrier is placed in the formed “trough”, then a heat insulator. A waterproof film is sewn on top. The construction is completed by filling the flooring with wood.
Design advantages
The main advantage of such an overlap is considered to be significant savings in lumber. In the manufacture of shields, “illiquid” raw materials are used. In particular, the material can be boards left over from the construction of the bathhouse itself. For cladding, sixty-centimeter elements will be enough.
Flaws
The disadvantages of panel construction include the large weight of the panels. Therefore, before you make a ceiling of this type in a bathhouse, you need to enlist someone’s help. Some craftsmen install empty panels first. The remaining materials are then laid on site. However, it should be said that even this method requires the coordinated work of several people.
Flooring
This design consists of thick boards laid tightly end to end. The thickness of the elements is from 5 cm. The ends of the boards rest on the last crown of the structure. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the ceiling. Insulation is laid on it.
Advantages of the design
The main advantage of overlapping is ease of installation. Quite a few materials are required to construct such a structure. This, in turn, will save money.
Disadvantages of overlap
The main disadvantage should be considered the limitation in width. This design is optimal for a span of 2.5 m. In addition, with such an overlap it will not be possible to build an attic. Another disadvantage of the design is the lack of protection of the insulation. At preventive maintenance the ceiling or rafter system material will be damaged.
The need for thermal insulation
Speaking about how to properly make a bathhouse ceiling, it is necessary to note the importance of insulation. The issue of arranging thermal insulation must be approached with all attention. This is due to the characteristics of the indoor microclimate. It should be remembered that the higher the temperature, the more difficult it will be to retain heat. The ideal option is to use several materials at once. Let's look at some of them.
Minvata
This material is made on the basis of basalt. Fibrous is considered an ideal heat insulator. Its advantages include harmlessness, fire resistance, and low thermal conductivity. However, mineral wool also has disadvantages. The main one is exposure to moisture. With increased humidity, mineral wool begins to lose its beneficial properties. To protect the material, steam and hydraulic layers are used. When laying mineral wool, you should remember that it must “breathe”. To ensure ventilation, a gap is left between the insulation and the waterproofing.
Expanded clay
The material is granules that are obtained by swelling of low-melting clay and subsequent heat treatment masses. Thanks to their cellular structure, the particles reliably retain heat. Due to this, it is often used in construction. Among other things, this material is inexpensive. For effective insulation, it is necessary to fill a layer of 30 cm. Expanded clay should also be protected with hydro- and vapor barrier.
Clay and sawdust
This is a fairly well-known and long-used method of solving the problem in the bathhouse. From the attic side, the floor boards are treated with a solution of sand and clay. After the coating has dried, leaves (preferably oak), shavings and sawdust are poured onto the boards. The top layer is covered with a five-centimeter layer of earth (dry). I must say that this option is quite labor-intensive. In addition, there will be a lot of dirt. But of all, this is the cheapest method.
How to make a ceiling in a bathhouse?
The first stage includes the installation of load-bearing beams. The elements are fastened along the smallest span of the building box. The interval between beams is 0.5-1 m. The width and height of the elements are selected depending on temporary and permanent loads, as well as the distance between load-bearing walls. Grooves are made in the upper crowns of the log house. Beams pre-treated with an antiseptic are inserted into them. The depth of the installation socket must be at least 10 cm. The edges of the supports that rest on the external walls must be burned and wrapped in two layers of roofing felt. After installing the beams, a chimney opening is formed. To do this, perpendicular jumpers are inserted in the selected area. They cut into the beams half the thickness. For reliability, the jumpers are fixed with nails.
Vapor barrier
Before making a ceiling from the inside of a bathhouse, a vapor barrier layer should be attached to the beams. Fixation is carried out with staples and a stapler. When laying the material, it is necessary to leave an overlap on the walls. It will be 15-20 cm. Special membranes, which are reinforced with foil and a special mesh, can act as a vapor barrier. The material is laid with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The edges of the strips are taped with tape.
Fitting boards indoors
The elements are fixed with nails. Fastening is carried out to the beams. The starting crossbar is adjusted to the wall. As a rule, lining is used in the cladding. It is laid using a mallet. The next element is fixed with a spike into the mounting hole of the previous one.
Thermal insulator
The insulation is laid directly on the vapor barrier film. It should be remembered that cotton wool materials should not be stored outside without film, as they quickly absorb moisture. When laying the material (rolled or in the form of slabs), the elements are fitted tightly to each other. There should be no gaps between them. When cutting, it is more expedient to make the elements slightly wider than the “sockets” and compress the material. This is much better than if he "walks". In addition, this will make thermal protection more effective.
Waterproofing
This material is laid in the same way vapor barrier film. Here, in the same way, it is necessary to sheathe with an overlap on the side walls. Between the film and fiber material there must be a ventilation gap. Thanks even minimum distance ventilation will be provided thermal insulation coating. This will prevent it from rotting and, as a result, loss of performance.
Attic arrangement
Edged boards are used to construct the ceiling. They are laid using the same technology as on the surface from the inside of the bath. The elements are pressed tightly against each other. In this case, it is recommended to make a gap near the walls. It can be hidden later with a plinth.
Finally
The technology described above is how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse. In general, the work is not accompanied by any difficulties. As for the type of construction, experts recommend installing a sheathed floor. Despite the fact that its cost is higher than others, such a ceiling will be reliable and durable.
The good old school course on the basics of physics convincingly proved that when heated, air rushes upward and that its main losses occur through the upper ceilings. It is in the bathhouse that heat leakage is extremely undesirable; its unreasonable consumption affects operating costs. In addition to heat, the upper floor is constantly exposed to moist fumes, due to which the structures require periodic repairs. This means that the ceiling in the bathhouse must be arranged with special care, it must retain heat, practically not react to moisture, not collect condensation and please the owners with its durability and neatness.
The traditional, most technologically advanced and easy to process material for the ceiling in a bathhouse is wood. It is also good for health, and can easily withstand the onslaught of hot steam, does not deform and does not collect condensation. The optimal choice is a tongue-and-groove board made of aspen, which does not emit resinous volatile components. To increase insulation and make work easier, tongue-and-groove elements are equipped with profile grooves and tongue-and-groove ridges. You can replace aspen lumber with spruce lumber; it is recommended to avoid excessively resinous pine.
The video will introduce you to the rules for choosing materials for the construction of bath structures:
First, let's decide on the priority type of bath ceiling design.
Types of ceilings for bath structures
In the list of listed tasks, the solution to all points is available to the most complex, expensive structures with a multilayer structure. However, there are economical options that require a minimum of money and labor effort to implement. The owner will lay the foundation for money or exploitation priorities; it is up to him to choose. And we will describe in detail how to make a ceiling in a bathhouse, focusing on design features structures, budgetary possibilities and labor costs.
Expensive false ceiling
The basis for its construction are wooden beams from which it is made ceiling. All other components of the multi-layer cake are attached to them on both sides. On the interior side, the ceiling is sheathed with tongue-and-groove or edged boards. First, a vapor barrier layer is laid on top of the peculiar pallets formed between the beams and the sheathing, then the insulation is laid and covered with a waterproofing film. Finally, a flooring of edged or unedged boards is installed on the attic side.
Note. It is recommended to lay a double vapor barrier layer over steam rooms and washing compartments.
The generally recognized advantages of false ceilings are:
- simplicity of design, the installation of a bathhouse ceiling according to this scheme can perform House master without special carpentry skills;
- opportunity to use attic space, move along the upper flooring without fear of damaging the insulating layers;
- maintainability, the ability to change a failed component at any time.
There are disadvantages - this is the use of high-quality expensive materials: boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm with a length sufficient to fully cover the span between load-bearing walls.
It can be called a “lightweight” analogue of a hemmed structure with a reduced number of layers. It consists of boards joined together, the ends of which can only rest on load-bearing walls. After installing the roll-up, the cracks between the boards are sealed with clay from the attic side or the ceiling is completely covered with a 1.50-2.00 cm layer of crumpled clay. The flooring is covered with a layer of vapor barrier on top, followed by a layer of insulation.
If the owner decides to use expanded clay, sawdust moistened with cement mortar, or a mixture of peat and earth as insulation, before laying the vapor barrier film, it will be necessary to make a copy of a small fence around the perimeter. The laid layers are covered with a slab in approximately half a meter increments. 
Regardless fundamental differences structure, the height of the ceiling in the bathhouse is determined by the position of the top shelf. In a sitting position, a person should not touch the plane of the ceiling with his head. With slight deviations, the height value usually varies around the standard mark of 2.20 meters.
The advantages of this option are:
- This is the simplest ceiling - the owners can build a basic structure with their own hands without helpers and without experience in construction.
- The device will require a minimum of not the most expensive materials.
- Installation requires a minimum of time.
The disadvantages are that people are prohibited from moving through the attic, which is only suitable for storing bath brooms. The repair process will also be very difficult, since the insulating “layers” will inevitably be damaged.
The flooring option is used mainly for arranging compact bathhouses with one or gable roof no attic. The flooring can only rest on load-bearing walls. An internal partition cannot be used as a support if it is not main wall between the steam room and the relaxation room. There cannot be more than 2.5 meters between the supports, since the boards simply “sag” under the influence of gravity.
Panel ceiling and its specifics
The panel type of ceiling structure will require the most labor effort. It is assembled from panel elements, each of which is made separately. The finished panel resembles a pallet with insulating layers and layers. Since the panel ceiling component turns out to be quite heavy and difficult to lift upward, all the layers do not fit into it initially.
Panel ceiling assembly
Work order:
- Before installing the panels, a sealant is placed on the walls of the bathhouse at the points of contact with the timber. 5 cm of the panel should rest on the beam, 10 cm of the beam is left for the installation of the rafter system.
- When installing panels between them, due to the presence of overlaps, a “pocket” should form. It contains a vapor barrier layer and insulation. The panels are not connected with ties, and the ends resting on the beams are not nailed down. To connect them, transversely laid boards are used.
- Thermal insulation material is placed in vapor barrier panels installed tightly to each other. Most often it is mineral or glass wool.
- The “boxes” equipped with insulation are secured using transverse boards. The starting board should span the entire width of the ceiling. The transverse boards are nailed to the bars of the panel boards.
- Next, you can nail several short cross boards, then a long board again. Such alternation also promotes savings by reducing the consumption of long lumber.
- The joint lines are covered with overhead boards.
The ceiling assembled from the panels is ready, but most often the work does not end there. If not very presentable remains were used to make the shields, the interior decoration of the bathhouse ceiling will be required. But it will need to be done after modernizing the rafter system.
Changes in truss structure
According to precisely calibrated dimensions in the rafters, it is necessary to select corner recesses so that the leg can rest on the upper crown. The notches made will slightly reduce the load-bearing capacity roofing system. Strengthening will be required by installing two vertical supports with a horizontal crossbar. To install the support beam, you will need to cut a recess and install a support in it. The rafter legs will need to be attached using cap screws to the upper lintel and to the crown in the area of the sawn corner. Screws fix the point of intersection of the crossbar and the support, and the intersection of the crossbar and rafter leg.
The three methods of installing a bath ceiling are distinguished by technology, load-bearing capacity, and cost of lumber. The owner of a small family bathhouse with pitched roof, most likely, will arrange a simple flooring. But the owner of a solid bath structure has a choice: hemmed and panel type. The first type will help save effort and time, the second - financial investments.