– this is the shortest and seemingly simplest stage of repair. But probably many of you had to spend at least an hour trying to cut these 45 degrees. The only exceptions are the lucky ones with a technical mindset and those who were friends with geometry at school.
Today we will tell you how to cut the corner of a ceiling plinth and a floor plinth without resorting to complex calculations. You will see that this is not at all hard work, which can be dealt with in a short time.
How to properly cut a ceiling plinth at an angle of 45°
Corner elements for ceiling plinths can be easily trimmed using a miter box or by hand. In the first case, you will need a miter box and a hacksaw, and in the second, a pencil and a hacksaw/cardboard knife. The hacksaw blade should be well sharpened so that you don’t have to think about how to cover up chips and roughness on the cut.
Cutting a corner using a miter box
We take a polyurethane ceiling plinth designed for the left or right side of the corner. We lean it against the future installation location so that the end of the segment opposite from the corner is against the edge of the already glued molding. In the place where the bottom edge of the ceiling plinth touches the top of the wall corner, make a dot with a pencil or stick a piece of insulating tape. We repeat these steps with the second segment.
How to cut an external corner of a ceiling plinth:
- We place the left blank in the miter box from left to right, pressing it to the edge closest to us. The corner vertex mark should coincide with the leftmost slot in the same edge
- We place the right blank from right to left, pressing it to the near edge. The mark for the top of the corner is to the far right slot.
How to file ceiling plinth on the inside corner? Everything is very simple, the actions will be exactly the same, only the location of the corner vertex mark changes. Here it’s the other way around: for the left segment – the far right slot, and for the right – the far left. Ready ceiling fillets you need to align them, and then look at the joints in the light - there should be no gaps. If they are very small, then editing is not necessary; you can get by with sealing with putty material after installation.
How to make a corner of a ceiling plinth: positioning the workpiece in a miter box
Important: sometimes the angles deviate too much from the standard 45 degrees, and a simple miter box for the ceiling plinth becomes useless - you can cut off the excess. The solution would be to purchase a rotary tool, but it is not cheap and this “one-time” purchase will be irrational. In this case, you can use the intersecting point method.How to cut the corners of a ceiling plinth without a miter box
If you are wondering how to properly cut down a ceiling plinth without a miter box, then the following information will be useful to you. We take the right section of the ceiling plinth made of foam plastic, apply it to the installation site and draw a line on the ceiling along its upper edge. It should extend beyond the vertices of the corners by about 5 cm. We do the same with the left segment and put points at the intersections of the lines. We put the ceiling plinths in place one by one and transfer the resulting marks to them.
We've dealt with the upper part of the ceiling moldings, now let's move on to the lower part. Everything is simple here, the marks we need are the vertices of the corners. We mark their location with dots on the lower edges of the left and right ceiling plinth. Next, you need to connect the dots on the moldings - this will be the cutting line. This method will help you cope with even the crooked corners. Adjustment will most likely not be needed, and if it is, it will be minimal.
How to cut a ceiling plinth without special device: marks for the intersecting point method are visible in the photo
Important: The work described here requires marking of surfaces. Therefore, you first need to start cutting and fitting the ceiling plinth, and only then think about how to glue the wallpaper. Or, if you want to mount the plinth on top of the wallpaper, mark and trim before finishing, and gluing after it.We trim the internal and external corners of the floor skirting boards
It is no more difficult to trim floor moldings evenly than it is to trim ceiling moldings. We only select the cutting tool according to the material that we will cut. The works themselves will also be similar, only for manual cutting Here is a slightly different marking method.
Cutting wood floor molding using a miter box
It is necessary to measure the distance from the edge of the baseboard already glued to the wall to the top of the corner of the wall. Now we take a new piece of molding and set aside a length equal to this distance on its lower edge. We put a dot with a pencil or stick a piece of electrical tape. We perform this procedure for both external and internal corners. In the miter box we place the plinth pieces from left to right for the left side of the corner and from right to left for the right. In this case, they should be pressed as in the figure - to the side of the miter box closest to you.
How to cut a corner of a ceiling plinth - placing the workpiece in a miter box:
- For the outer left one, we match the mark on the plinth with the leftmost slot. For the outer right - from the far right.
- For the inner left one, we match the mark on the plinth with the rightmost slot. For the inner right - from the extreme left.
Cutting the plinth at an angle: the red line marks the place of the cut
Floor plinth: internal and external corner “by hand”
Floor moldings, as a rule, are quite wide and thick, and therefore finding only two points here, as for ceiling moldings, is not enough. For trimming internal corner First, we place a point at its top at a height equal to the width of the plinth - in the figure this is a green point. From it to the left and right we set aside a distance equal to the thickness of the plinth - points 1 and 2.
We apply the left segment to the wall, and from point 1 we draw a line along it, perpendicular to the wall and put a point on the edge. We repeat the action with the right segment, only draw from point 2. In the figure, the point is marked with the number three. We draw a line from it across the plinth to its opposite edge - we get point 4. Now we connect the green dot with points 3 and 4 - we get a line and an angle along which we can cut the molding.
How to cut a plinth: make the necessary marks in the corners
Important: It is easier to trim external corners than internal ones. We set points on the left and right segments: A – mark of the top of the corner of the wall; C – the point of intersection of the lines, which is obtained by alternately drawing the left and right sections of the plinth along the floor; B – from point C across the molding a line is drawn to its opposite edge.By connecting these points with one line, we get a line along which the cut will be made.
Selecting a tool for forming an angle
Most economical option– purchase of simple plastic miter box. It represents plastic block with eight working slots. This device is designed for only two operations: trimming at 45, 90 and 22.5 degrees. An angle of 90 degrees is useful, for example, if you need to embed a socket box into the middle of the molding.
Some devices come with eccentric locks included. They are preferable because it is easier to work with - the plinth is clamped in the desired position and does not move during the cutting process. Accordingly, if any errors occur, they will be minimal and adjusting the angle will not be difficult.
How to cut a plastic baseboard: a simple plastic miter box
If you are undergoing repairs in own home, then perhaps it makes sense to purchase more serious instrument– rotary single-plane miter box. It is designed for cutting at angles of 15, 22.5, 30, 36, 45 and 90 degrees. The design of this miter box includes 2 clamps - for clamping in horizontal and vertical planes, as well as a limiter that will allow you to cut workpieces to the same length. The hacksaw will be built-in here. If it is not clear how to cut a ceiling plinth, the video review below will help you.
How to trim a baseboard in a corner: a rotary miter box
How to cut down a ceiling plinth: video contains detailed description miter box, and information on how to use this tool.
This will be useful to you at work
As you noticed, the text mentioned marking using electrical tape. This is the most convenient way marking workpieces, since the pencil is not always visible on the floor plinth, and it is sometimes difficult to trace its lines from the ceiling. The bright pieces of electrical tape are very clearly visible, and when they are no longer needed, they are removed literally with one movement of the hand. There are no traces of glue left after removing such marks.
Sometimes you have to trim moldings with a very large pattern. How to connect corners to make them beautiful:
- From one long fillet we cut pieces according to the number of corners, each of which should contain an element of the pattern. On both sides of the pattern there should be 5 cm of the length of the plinth.
- We measure the resulting blanks and find their middle, cut along the center line.
- We make corner trims as usual, but taking into account the fact that the centers of the patterns on the workpieces should fall on the tops of the corners.
How to join the corners of a ceiling plinth if there is a large pattern on its surface
During renovation or construction, there are often situations when it is necessary to make a joint between two parts so that it fits perfectly into the corner rooms. If you need to cut it off corner at 45?, use one of the following methods.
You will need
- - ruler;
- – pencil, pen, marker;
- - paper;
- – protractor;
- – miter box;
- – knife, scissors, jigsaw and other cutting tools.
Instructions
1. If the surface of the material is quite large and allows you to make marks, draw one of the cut lines using a ruler. After this, draw a perpendicular to this line using corner A notebook or any object with straight edges, say, a sheet of paper or a book.
2. Using a ruler, mark equal sections, say 10 cm, along the entire side of the corner. Measure the distance between the resulting points and divide it in half. Combine this point with the vertex of the right angle. You received corner at 45?, now cut the material along the drawn lines using scissors, a knife, a jigsaw or other tools.
3. Mark one of the cut lines, take a protractor and apply it to the line. Find the 45 mark on the scale? and combine this point with the center of the protractor. Cut the material along the marked lines using available tools.
4. Cut paper, film, foil or other easily bendable material in the following way: find or draw a straight line corner(for a sheet of paper this is each of its corners). Fold the sheet so that the adjacent sides match. Cut the sheet along the fold line.
5. If you need to cut corner at 45 degrees several times, say, when adjusting the baseboard, make a sample. To do this, take thick cardboard, draw a square on it and cut it diagonally.
6. In order to cut materials at an angle of 45? in large quantities, purchase a miter box; this tool can be easily found in any hardware store. Place the plinth or strip inside as it will be placed in the space, and cut it with a knife, jigsaw or other tool.
Skirting can be made of foam, plastic, wood or other materials. In order to cut the plinth smoothly and not damage its coating, you should select your own tool for each of the materials used.
You will need
- The two tools that will be required in any case are a miter box and a pencil. Without them, cutting the plinth straight will not be easy. Occasionally a clamp may do the trick.
Instructions
1. In order to cut a ceiling plinth made of foam plastic, you need to pick up a painting knife. Before starting work, be sure to insert a new blade that is not only sharp, but also quite long. Place the plinth in the miter box and cut it with a paint knife at the desired angle.
2. If you are faced with the task of cutting off a plastic baseboard, you can bravely cut it with a hacksaw. The fine teeth of such a hacksaw cope well with plastic, leaving no burrs or marks on it, allowing you to achieve an even and precise cut.
3. To cut wooden baseboards, you can use a wood saw with fine teeth. Just as in other cases, the plinth must be marked in advance according to size, then placed in a miter box and sawed off at the desired angle.
4. Special difficulties may arise when cutting skirting boards made of wood or wood shavings coated with varnish or veneer. Upper layer Such products are extremely susceptible to mechanical stress, and in order to cut off the baseboard without damaging the coating, you need to try very hard. IN in this case It is better to cut with a hacksaw for wood with the smallest teeth or a hacksaw for metal. Due to the fact that such skirting boards are also quite expensive, before cutting off the necessary blank, you should first practice.
Helpful advice
The varnished coating of the plinth often does not allow the strip to be tightly fixed in the miter box. In such cases, you can use a clamp to hold the plinth correctly when cutting.
Tip 3: How to detect the angle between intersecting lines
In order to determine the value of the angle between intersecting straight lines, you need to move both straight lines (or one of them) to a new location using the parallel transfer method until they intersect. After this, you should discover the size of the angle between the resulting intersecting lines.
You will need
- Ruler, right triangle, pencil, protractor.
Instructions
1. Modern special technologies in various industries (construction, mechanical engineering, instrument making, etc.) are based on the construction of three-dimensional (three-dimensional) models. The basis of this construction is three-dimensional design (in the school course, the solution of spatial problems is discussed in the section of geometry called stereometry). Quite often in three-dimensional design it is necessary to solve problems of determining quantitative indicators of the relative position of intersecting straight lines, say, the distance and size of the angles between them.
2. Crossing lines are understood to be straight lines that do not belong to the same plane. The magnitude of the angle between two straight lines that do not belong to the same plane is equal to the magnitude of the angle between two intersecting lines, respectively, parallel to the given intersecting lines.
3. Consequently, in order to determine the angle between two straight lines that do not belong to the same plane, you need to place straight lines parallel to them in the same plane, that is, reduce the problem to finding the angle between two intersecting straight lines (considered in planimetry).
4. In this case, three options for the arrangement of lines in space are absolutely equal: - a straight line parallel to the first line is drawn through any point of the 2nd line; - a straight line parallel to the 2nd line is drawn through any point of the first line; - straight lines parallel to the first and The 2nd straight line is drawn through an arbitrary point in space.
5. When 2 lines intersect, two pairs are formed adjacent corners. The angle between two intersecting lines is considered to be the smaller of the adjacent angles formed when the lines intersect (adjacent angles are those whose sum is 180°). Measuring the angle between intersecting lines leads to solving the problem of the size of the angle between intersecting lines.
6. Let's say we are given two straight lines a and b belonging to different planes. On one of the lines, it is possible, a, we select an arbitrary point A, through which, using a ruler and a right triangle, we draw a straight line b’ in such a way that b’ || b. According to the parallel transport theorem, the magnitude of the angles for this type of spatial movement is a constant. Thus, line a forms with parallel lines b and b’ equal angles. With the support of a protractor, we measure the angle between intersecting lines a and b’.
Note!
The accuracy of geometric constructions and angle measurements must be observed.
Helpful advice
The best option is to construct a line parallel to one of these lines through any point of the 2nd line.
It is enough to take ordinary school supplies - a pencil and paper, a ruler, a protractor and a compass - and you can draw any geometric figure, be it square, oval, three square. However, there are cases when there are no drawing tools at hand at all or their number is limited, but even in this case it is possible to make the necessary drawing.
You will need
- - ruler;
- - pencil;
- - paper;
- – compass;
- – protractor;
- – right triangles
Instructions
1. If you have nothing at hand other than a sheet of paper and a pencil, then you can get by with even these supplies. To do this, carefully fold the sheet of paper in four, while perfectly smoothing out the folds. As a result, at the place of the double fold you will get a right angle, one that has 90°. Fold the corner in half again to get the desired 45° angle. True, in this case a small error will appear in the form of a loss of several degrees. For a more accurate drawing, trace a right angle with a pencil onto a blank sheet of paper, carefully cut it out and fold it in half - this will give an angle of 45°.
2. You can draw a corner using rectangular triangles square ov, which can be different - with angles of 90°, 45°, 45° and 90°, 60°, 30°. Take a tre square(with angles 90°, 45°, 45°) and trace an acute angle of 45° on a piece of paper. If there are only three square with angles of 90°, 60°, 30°, then trace a right angle on another sheet of paper, cut it out, fold it in half and trace it on the required drawing. This will be an angle of 45°.
3. The most accurate construction option would be to use a protractor. Draw a line on a piece of paper, mark a corner point on it, attach a protractor and mark a 45° point, then combine them together.
4. It's interesting that even with the support of a compass, you can also draw an angle of 45°. To do this, it is enough to have in front of you a depicted angle of 90° (say, with the help of a rectangular triangle square or by folding the paper in four). After this, draw a circle from the corner point with a compass. Mark dots at the intersection of the circle and the sides of the right angle. Now, from each of the 2 points, use the same compass solution to make two more circles. At the place where they intersect, you will get a point, which you will combine with the corner one, resulting in two angles of 45°.
Helpful advice
To make a more accurate drawing, make sure that the pencil lead is sharp. It is better to use wooden rulers and triangles.
Orienting a line on a map involves determining its direction relative to the geographic, axial or magnetic meridian, taken as the original direction. The original and selected direction form a reference corner, with the support of which the direction of the line is oriented. The reference angle can be directional corner, true (geographical) and magnetic azimuth or directions: geographic, magnetic and directional.
You will need
- - topographic map,
- – protractor,
- - ruler,
- - pencil,
- - calculator,
- – compass.
Instructions
1. The directional angle is called corner formed by the north direction of the axial meridian (initial direction) and the direction line to the target. Directional is counted corner clockwise and measured between 0-360 degrees.
2. There are several methods for finding the directional angle: with the support of a protractor, magnetic azimuth (using a compass or compass), geodetic method, gyroscopic, astronomical, with the support of a chord angle meter and using contour points on a map or aerial photography. Let's look at some of these methods.
3. With protractor support, draw a straight line through your starting point and target to the nearest vertical grid line on the map (x-axis). It is important that the distance from the starting point to the point of intersection of the drawn line with the abscissa axis is not less than the radius of the protractor.
4. Align the protractor with the abscissa axis: the center of the protractor should be at the intersection of the vertical coordinate axis and the line of the selected direction, and the zero of the protractor ruler should look north.
5. Measure corner between the vertical line of the coordinate grid and the drawn direction line: counting from the abscissa axis (northern direction) - clockwise.
6. With the help of formulas, you can move from one reference angle to another, say, from a magnetic or geographic azimuth to a directional angle.
7. Direction angle calculation with magnetic azimuth supportCalculate geographic azimuth. It is equal to the sum of the magnetic azimuth and declination of the magnetic needle (the data is indicated on the map - a diagram of the relative positions of the meridians at the bottom of the map). This amendment can be with a “+” or “-“ sign.
8. Subtract the value of the Gaussian convergence of the meridians from the obtained value of the geographic azimuth (the value is indicated in the diagram of the relative positions of the meridians). The resulting number is the directional number corner directions.
9. Calculate the azimuth of the selected star (after long tracking). After this, calculate or determine easily with the support of the nozzle on the compass the azimuth of the oriented direction. Later, use the formula to calculate the directional corner. This method for determining the directional angle is called astronomical. He's the most accurate.
Helpful advice
If, as a result of calculations, the directional angle turns out to be less than zero(negative), 360 degrees are added to it; if the angle turns out to be larger than the limit (360 degrees), subtract 360 degrees. If it is necessary to transfer the directional angle to the next direction line through the angle of rotation, you must add the difference (left turn) to the existing directional angle of the direction line or subtract the sum (right turn) of the rotation angle and 180 degrees.
The baseboard can be made of wood, plastic, or foam. During the installation process, it becomes necessary to place the plinth on the internal or external corners. In this case, it needs to be cut at an angle, which, as usual, is 45 degrees.
Instructions
1. You can cut down the baseboard in different ways. For voluminous work the most correct method– use of a miter box. This carpentry tool for cutting skirting boards at different angles. The miter box can be purchased at a hardware store or made independently from wood, plastic, or aluminum alloys. Using a miter box, you can cut down both floor and ceiling skirting boards, and do it quickly and with high quality.
2. Place the miter box on a workbench or on the surface on which sawing will be done. After this, place the plinth in the miter box. Bring the cut end of the plinth to the miter box slot, which contains the required angle. Fix the plinth tightly in the miter box to prevent it from moving. Insert a hacksaw into the slot for trimming and cut down the baseboard under required angle.
3. If not much trimming is required, then it is easier to saw down the baseboard according to the applied markings. This is more labor-intensive, but also provides excellent accuracy. To do this: Using a pencil, ruler and protractor, mark a 45-degree angle on the plinth. To do this, first measure the width of the plinth and set aside the width of the plinth from the end along the length. After this, draw a line connecting the vertex of the corner with the laid-off point. Use a hacksaw to cut down the baseboard according to the markings.
4. The least accurate method is achieved by cutting the baseboard by eye. It should only be used as a last resort. Do this: secure the plinth to work surface, sweep the 45-degree angle “by eye” and cut it with a hacksaw for trimming. Please note that in this option, the adjacent part of the plinth will need to be filed in place, in accordance with the angle obtained “by eye”. All these methods are suitable for sawing all kinds of skirting boards: wooden, plastic, as well as for skirting boards made of foam plastic.
Diagonal a lot square– a segment that connects two non-adjacent vertices of a figure (i.e. non-adjacent vertices or many that do not belong to the same side) square). In a parallelogram, knowing the length of the diagonals and the length of the sides, you can calculate the angles between diagonals .
Instructions
1. To make it easier to perceive information, draw an arbitrary parallelogram ABCD on a piece of paper (a parallelogram is a quadrilateral whose opposite sides are equal and parallel in pairs). Connect opposite vertices with segments. The resulting AC and BD are diagonals. Mark the intersection point of the diagonals with the letter O. You need to find the angles BOC (AOD) and COD (AOB).
2. A parallelogram has a number of mathematical properties: - diagonals are divided in half by the point of intersection; – the diagonal of a parallelogram divides it into two equal triangles square;- the sum of all angles in a parallelogram is equal to 360 degrees; - the sum of the angles adjacent to one side of a parallelogram is equal to 180 degrees; - the sum of the squares of the diagonals is equal to the dual sum of the squares of its adjacent sides.
3. To find the angles between diagonals, use the cosine theorem from the theory of elementary geometry (Euclidean). According to the cosine theorem, the square of the side three square(A) can be obtained by adding the squares of its 2 other sides (B and C), and from the resulting sum subtract the double product of these sides (B and C) by the cosine of the angle between them.
4. In relation to the triangle BOS of the parallelogram ABCD, the cosine theorem will look as follows: Square BC = square BO + square OC – 2*BO*OS*cos angle BOC Hence cos angle BOC = (square BC – square BO – square OC) / (2*BO *OS)
5. Having discovered the value of angle BOS (AOD), it is easy to calculate the value of another angle enclosed between diagonals– COD (AOB). To do this, subtract the value of the angle BOC (AOD) from 180 degrees - because the sum of adjacent angles is equal to 180 degrees, and angles BOC and COD and angles AOD and AOB are adjacent.
Video on the topic
When installing pipes for water supply, sewerage or other purposes, it is often necessary to cut off pipe under angle. In this case, the slightest mistake in constructing the cut line will lead to disruption of the pipe welding line and, as a result, to incorrect installation. To get the job done properly, use the following tools.
You will need
- - paper;
- – a bowl of water;
- - chalk;
- – painting tape;
- – core;
- – computer and program for drawing up pipe layouts;
- - Printer;
- - scissors;
- - scotch;
- – lathe;
- – gas-flame equipment;
- – welding unit;
- – hacksaw for metal;
- – pipe cutter;
- – Bulgarian.
Instructions
1. If you need to cut a pipe at an angle of 45, take a square sheet of paper, fold it diagonally and wrap the pipe in it so that the ends of the diagonals meet. The short sides will indicate a cut line of 45°; outline this line with chalk or scratch it with a core.
2. If the pipe is small and you need to get a certain angle, take a bowl of water and dip the pipe at the desired angle. Calculate the slope in advance. The boundary between wet and dry metal will show you the cut line; outline it with chalk or scratch it with a sharp object.
3. To determine the cut line of the pipe, use tight paint tape. This method is extremely convenient when the pipe is long and needs to be cut in the middle. Stick the tape at the required angle; it can be easily moved and peeled off after cutting. To be sure that the tape lies flat, wrap the pipe 2 or 3 times.
4. To determine the correct cut angle, try using a pipe development program or an ordinary drawing program, say, Corel Draw. To do this, download the program and draw a sample, indicating the circumference (diameter multiplied by Pi) and the required angle. If you do not have this program, create a scan independently using OST 38-43-81.
5. When the drawing is ready, print it on a printer (on several sheets if necessary), cut it out, and glue it with tape. After this, attach it to the pipe and outline it with chalk, or draw it with a core.
6. Marking the cut with a line, cut the pipe along it. If possible, use a lathe; with its help you can get a fairly even edge. In order to cut a pipe evenly using gas-flame equipment or traditional welding, you need to be a very experienced welder.
Helpful advice
For slicing large number For pipes, buy a pipe cutter or take a grinder. As a last resort, try cutting the pipe by hand with a traditional hacksaw.
Note!
The corners of the rooms are not always exactly 90?; they can often be acute or obtuse. In this case, if you have already cut the plinth or other material at an angle of 45?, glue it exactly like this and cover the gap with putty.
Helpful advice
To ensure that the corners of the 2 parts of the baseboard match correctly, first cut one of them at an angle of 45?, place it in the repair area and immediately try on the second part. Draw a cut line with a pencil and cut a corner along it (even if it differs from the specified one, the design will fit perfectly into the space).
There are now more than enough tips on how to cut a baseboard at 45 degrees on the Internet, the only bad thing is that most of them are given by people who have never done this. Next, from a practical point of view, I will tell you how to cut skirting boards at the corners with your own hands in 3 options, and you will learn how to traditional ways, and about folk universal recipes.
The science of how to properly trim ceiling moldings in corners is not as complicated as it may seem.
A few words about tools and materials
Floor skirting boards are now made of wood or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), in other words, plastic. For ceiling fillets, the list is a little longer:
The range of ceiling plinths is much wider than that of the floor type.
- Polyurethane - these skirting boards have good elasticity and can bend around radial and other curved surfaces, but in any case they need to be trimmed to precise angles;
- Foam plastic - the simplest a budget option, price for foam baseboards low and they cut very easily;
- PVC - the principle is the same as for floor skirting boards, but the lineup much wider;
- Wooden - similar to floor ones, only here there are also wide models;
- Gypsum - with the advent of polyurethane and foam plastic, gypsum ceiling fillets faded into the background, firstly, they are heavy, and secondly, fragile. But to be fair, they are worth mentioning.
Since it is impossible to correctly cut the ceiling plinth and its floor counterpart without a good tool, we will dwell on this issue in a little more detail.
The best, almost ideal tool for trimming any skirting boards and more is Miter saw with a rotating stand. The high-speed disc makes smooth and precise cuts, and the bed in these units rotates to any angle. The only problem is the serious cost of this tool.
A miter saw is an almost ideal tool for cutting baseboards and more.
Considered one of the best hand tools for precise cutting of small bars - this is an abrasive saw. In principle, this is true, but I’ll tell you honestly, it’s not easy to find a really high-quality saw, even with the current assortment. If you decide to buy such a tool, then take a saw with a fine tooth.
Theoretically, foam and polyurethane can be cut with any sharp and durable knife. But at the same time you need to have a firm hand and at least a little experience in cutting foam. Plus, cutting wide fillets with a knife is very problematic.
Without experience, making a clear cut with a knife is very problematic.
Personally, if I don’t have a crosscut tool, I only use a hacksaw. It is suitable for cutting absolutely any material, from foam to wood. By the way, people often ask the question of how to cut a plastic baseboard for the floor, so take a hacksaw for metal and you definitely can’t go wrong.
For cutting skirting boards, a hacksaw is considered one of the best tools.
Three working methods for trimming skirting boards
For floor and ceiling skirting boards, the cutting instructions are almost the same. But if on the floor a crooked corner can be covered with something, then on the ceiling this is already a problem, so we will pay more attention to how to cut the ceiling plinths.
Method number 1. Classic miter box
The classic miter box is a U-shaped box with slots in the opposite sides. A piece of suitable size is inserted into this stock and sawed off with a hacksaw through the slots in the sides. The idea is not new, the tool is already several hundred years old, but despite its simplicity, not everyone knows how to correctly cut the corner of a ceiling plinth using such a miter box.
Not everyone knows how to cut a ceiling plinth in a corner using a classic miter box.
Tip: when trimming, ceiling plinths are applied to the side of the miter box that is closest to you, and floor plinths, on the contrary, should be applied to the side of the tool farthest from you. This is not a dogma, but it is much easier to work this way.
It is easier to work with floor plinths, since the miter box lies on a horizontal plane, it is easier for you to orient yourself in the position of the plinth. People most often make mistakes when cutting ceiling fillets; they simply insert them into the tool incorrectly. There is a simple but important rule here.
Important: the side of the ceiling fillet that touches the wall should be directed to the upper edge of the side of the miter box, and that part of the plinth that borders the ceiling should be placed on the bottom of the miter box.
As you know, a corner has 2 sides, so in order to make fewer mistakes, train yourself to place the bar that will be mounted on the right side of the corner in the miter box on the right, and the bar that is attached to the left in the miter box on the left. The intricacies of using a classic miter box are described in detail in the video in this article.
In addition to the classic U-shaped miter box, there are two more types similar designs is a professional and rotary tool. As for the professional option, only masters use it. The device is quite bulky, but it rotates at any angle and has a hacksaw that can be locked in the desired position.
Professional miter box with the ability to fix a hacksaw and workpiece.
The rotating device can easily be called a “pocket” miter box. The only advantage here is the ability to clearly fix the angle of rotation of the bar. On the one hand, it’s easy to work with - set the corner, apply it to the baseboard and cut it off. But on the other hand, you need to get used to such a tool; if you do not have experience working with a hacksaw, then you should not take a rotary miter box.
Advice: when choosing a classic U-shaped miter box, first of all, do not buy Chinese products. And secondly, try to buy models with the ability to rigidly fix the part inside; one of these models is shown in the photo below.
A miter box with the ability to fix the part inside is much more convenient to work with.
Method number 2. Trimming according to a template
Most often, both ceiling and floor skirting boards need to be cut at 45º. If there is no specialized tool nearby, then improvised miter box can be drawn on a piece of notebook paper. From the school geometry course we know that the diagonal of any square in relation to the base has an inclination angle of 45º.
Next you need to draw a square and draw 2 diagonals in it - this will be the required 45º. All you have to do is correctly attach the plinth to the leaf and mark. True, in order to cut the plinth smoothly without guides, you need a good eye and a steady hand.
Method No. 3. Applied universal
Trimming at 45º is a common option, but what if you need a different angle and only have a hacksaw and a pencil? It turns out that there is a very simple way out of this situation. Plus, this method is universal, it is suitable for both external and internal corners.
Moreover, I can assure you that those angles that visually seem straight, in fact have deviations of a couple of degrees. As a result, you buy a good tool, cut at exactly 45º, and when joining, a gap appears between the baseboards. Here this problem disappears. And then, using an example, we will look at how to cut the ceiling plinth in the inner corner.
| Illustrations | Recommendations |
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Stage 1.
Take the fillet, place it on one side of the corner and use it to draw 2 lines, along the wall and along the ceiling.
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Stage 2. Do the same on the adjacent side of the corner. |
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Stage 3. If you draw a diagonal from the intersection of the lines on the ceiling to the inner corner, you will get the desired cutting line. |
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Stage 4. Next, take the tool and cut along the finished markings. If you are comfortable with a hacksaw, then the baseboards should fit together perfectly. |
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. As I already mentioned, you can trim the outer corner using exactly the same technology. |
Important nuances
If you tried your best, but a small gap at the joint still “came out,” do not be discouraged. In wooden fillets, such a gap is easily covered up furniture wax. To fill a gap on baseboards made of polyurethane, foam, plastic or plaster, putty is perfect. Naturally, the color of the composition must match the color of the baseboard.
All cracks in the area of the ceiling fillets are sealed with putty.
Wide ceiling fillets are certainly beautiful, but they can only be mounted perfectly smooth walls. If the plane of the wall in relation to the ceiling is wavy, then it is better to buy narrow polyurethane fillets, they are elastic and will smooth out this drawback.
The most questions arise about how to cut wallpaper to fit the ceiling plinth. There is nothing complicated here: the wallpaper is glued with a slight overlap on the baseboards and when the wall is completely glued, take a large spatula, place it in the corner and cut off the excess along the blade with a knife.
But keep in mind - neither the knife nor the spatula can be removed from the wall until you have gone through the entire plane. That is, you put a spatula from the corner, cut the wallpaper along the length of the blade, and then, without lifting the blade from the wall, move and cut until you reach the next corner.
Conclusion
All three methods I described work; the choice depends on what tool you have and what your professional skills are. If after watching the video you still have questions, welcome to the comments, I’ll help in any way I can.
If you are not confident in your abilities, then for both floor and ceiling plinths there are joining elements that allow you to do without trimming.
You will need
- - ruler;
- - pencil, pen, marker;
- - paper;
- - protractor;
- - miter box;
- - knife, scissors, jigsaw and other cutting tools.
Instructions
If the surface of the material is large enough to allow marks, draw one of the cut lines using a ruler. Then draw a perpendicular to this line using a square or any object with straight edges, such as a piece of paper or a book.
Using a ruler, mark equal segments on each side of the corner, for example, 10 cm. Measure the distance between the resulting points and divide it in half. Connect this point to the vertex of the right angle. You have obtained an angle of 45º, now cut the material along the drawn lines using scissors, a knife, a jigsaw or other tools.
Mark one of the cut lines, take a protractor and apply it to the line. Find the 45º mark on the scale and connect this point to the center of the protractor. Cut the material along the marked lines using available tools.
Cut paper, film, foil or other easily bendable material as follows: find or draw a right angle (for a sheet of paper, this is any of its corners). Fold the sheet so that adjacent sides match. Cut the sheet along the fold line.
If you need to cut a 45-degree angle several times, such as when fitting baseboards, make a template. To do this, take thick cardboard, draw a square on it and cut it diagonally.
In order to cut materials at an angle of 45º in large volumes, buy a miter box; this tool can easily be found in any hardware store. Place the baseboard or batten inside as it will be positioned in the space, and cut it with a knife, jigsaw or other tool.
note
The corners of rooms are not always exactly 90º; they can often be acute or obtuse. In this case, if you have already cut the baseboard or other material at an angle of 45º, glue it that way and cover the gap with putty.
Helpful advice
To ensure that the corners of two parts, say a plinth, coincide exactly, first cut one of them at an angle of 45º, place it in the repair area and try on the second part here. Draw a cut line with a pencil and cut a corner along it (even if it differs from the given one, the design will fit perfectly into the space).
Sources:
- how to make a 45 angle correctly
During homework repair work You may need to cut materials at a 45 degree angle. This is usually done to connect two parts “in a mustache”, that is, with a 90-degree angle (frame, plinth, door frames And so on). In order for the result of the work to please you, it is important to absolutely accurately fit the adjacent parts of the workpieces. Doing this without a special device - a miter box - is extremely difficult, especially for a novice craftsman.
You will need
- - miter box;
- - hacksaw;
- - wooden blank;
- - protractor;
- - pencil;
- - a clamp or screws and a screwdriver.
Instructions
Prepare a corner template that will help you easily make an accurate cut of a piece of wood at an angle of 45 degrees. This device is a profile in the form of an inverted letter “P”; On its sides there are through slots for a hacksaw. They are usually located at angles of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. More complex miter boxes are additionally equipped with arbitrary fixed slots, or have rotating structure– it allows you to set the saw in the optimal position.
Buy ready-made carpentry tools from a hardware store with a wooden, metal or plastic tray. For a novice master this is best option. If desired, you can make a simple miter box from three planed boards or plywood strips (thickness - about 1.5-2 cm).
Drill several holes in the walls of the future miter box, apply wood glue to the ends and assemble the box (tray) of the miter box. Secure the corner template with screws. The walls of the instrument must lie strictly parallel to one another; the bottom and each side form clear perpendiculars.
Mark a 45 degree angle with a pencil and add additional groove lines if necessary. To avoid mistakes in your calculations, use a protractor.
The most important thing is the slots. It is recommended to perform them with the same hacksaw that will subsequently be used to make cuts in the finished miter box. Start sawing without putting too much pressure on the working tool and hold the blade. First saw through one side, then the opposite.
Start processing lumber. Secure the miter box to a workbench or work table with a clamp (clamps for fixing parts) or screws. Then make a mark for the future cut on the slats (boards, plinths) and place the workpiece in the box. Press it firmly against one of the side walls of the template, aligning the marks with the 45-degree angle slot.
Insert the hacksaw into the grooves of the miter box and cut the workpiece. The saw will be limited to fixed cuts and you will get a clean and precise cut.
When cutting skirting boards, make sure that the corners in the room are really straight. If the walls are very uneven, the angle of the cut on the workpieces should be adjusted. Measure the joints with a goniometer interior walls and divide the result in half (the joint of the skirting boards is “miteral”). To make an accurate cut, it is recommended to make grooves with a given angle in a homemade miter box. Another option is a magazine rotary tool, which allows you to change the angle from 0 to 180 degrees in approximately 15-degree increments.
When carrying out repair and finishing work in an apartment, proper trimming, joining and adjustment of angles of various decorative elements, for example, ceiling or floor plinths, as well as sheet materials.
Installing baguettes and skirting boards gives the renovation a finished and neat look, but only if the trimming is done correctly and all joints meet perfectly evenly. Used for pruning different instruments and methods that make work easier, but it is also important to take into account many nuances, which we will talk about today.
Types of ceiling and floor skirting boards, selection of tools
Installation of baguettes and skirting boards at least important stage repairs than any other. And cutting the corners is the most difficult part here. It is important to choose the right tool for the job and the most suitable way cutting
Ceiling plinth
Ceiling molding, also known as molding, fillet, border or simply plinth, is most often used to finish the joint between a wall and a ceiling. Although sometimes it is used to cover internal corners, make decorative frames or panels, and decorate niches and architectural elements. There are several most popular materials for making ceiling moldings:
Plastic (polyvinyl chloride). It is more convenient to cut wide and rigid moldings with a hacksaw. If you need a more gentle tool, use a jigsaw.
Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene). A very light and porous material that is best cut with a sharp construction or stationery knife.
Wooden baguettes. Saws with helical sharpening, specially designed for baguettes, are suitable for cutting. You can also use hand or jigsaws.
Floor plinth
A modern floor plinth can hardly be called a plank that closes a gap. This is a structural component that complements the design and emphasizes general design. Skirting boards are made from several materials:
Wooden can be made of solid wood or veneer. For pruning use flat or circular saws, jigsaws.
Plastic skirting boards- “dangerous” competitors traditional wood. Easy to install and cut with a regular hacksaw.
Aluminum skirting boards- the last word in interior design. Usually cut with an electric saw or hand saw on metal.
Only on wooden baseboards will you have to make corner trims. The rest are cut straight and connected using special corners.
Types of angles
Corner joining and trimming of the plinth differs depending on the type of corner; they are distinguished: internal, external and non-standard.
An internal angle, in other words, an angle of a room less than 180°, is usually 90°. When trimming an internal corner, the lower part of the ceiling plinth always protrudes above the upper. The first step is to measure the angle between the walls; if it is standard and equal to 90°, then the planks are cut at an angle of 45°. The baguette that is glued on the right side should be cut on the left, and the left strip on the right.
The external or external angle is less common, it is more than 180°, usually around 270°. When working with such angles, everything is exactly the opposite. The edge of the plinth that will press against the ceiling should be larger than the bottom.
Non-standard angles. These most often mean angles with a degree greater or less than the standard of 90° and 270°, as well as various types of rounding. In this case, pruning is carried out “by eye” or with markings in place. Areas with curves are assembled from several small elements, each of which is adjusted in turn.
Methods for cutting skirting boards
If the corners are standard, it is most convenient to cut the baseboards using a miter box or stencil. In other cases, they resort to the method of marking in place.
Cutting a baguette using a miter box
A miter box is a carpentry tool that is designed specifically for cutting baguettes. It can be made of plastic, wood or metal. The shape resembles a tray with slits (grooves) on the walls. The miter box helps to correctly determine the angle of inclination and evenly cut the bar at 45, 60 or 90 degrees. Some models may have more graduation guides.
When working with a miter box, it is important to place the baguette correctly:
- Baguette in end cut has the shape of an irregular triangle, so the side that will stick to the ceiling is pressed against the bottom of the miter box, and the wall side against the wall of the instrument.
- The cut is made through opposite grooves. If you need to cut a baguette at an internal angle, then it is cut at an acute angle, and if it is an external angle, at an obtuse angle.
- Ceiling plinths are always laid against the nearest wall. The left part is placed on the left side, and the right part, respectively, on the right.
- Floor skirting boards apply to the far wall of the miter box, “away from you.” Corners are cut using the same principle.
A stencil is nothing more than a flat imitation of a miter box. It's not difficult to make. To begin with, you should arm yourself with a ruler, pencil and protractor.
Two parallel lines are drawn on a flat surface, the width between which should not be less than the width of the baguette. A perpendicular is drawn in the middle of the segments. All angles must be 90°. Next, this segment connecting the two parallels is divided in half and two more lines are drawn through the point at an angle of 45° from the perpendicular. Place a baguette on the stencil, just like in a miter box.
Cutting with pencil marks
This is another way to cut a baguette evenly without a miter box.
For the inside corner. The plinth is applied to the ceiling as it will stand, to the left of the corner, and a line is drawn on the ceiling. Then the segment is applied to the other side, to the right of the corner, and a line is also drawn on the ceiling. The two lines should form an intersection point. Again, apply the plinth pieces one by one and lower a straight line from the intersection point to the bottom edge of the plinth; it will be the cut line.
For outside corner. Place the plinth to the right of the corner and draw a line on the ceiling with a pencil beyond the corner of the wall connection. After this, apply the plinth on the left side of the corner and draw a second line to the intersection with the first. The intersection point is transferred to the upper edge of the baguette. The point where the corner of the walls and the inner bottom edge of the baguette meet will be the second mark. The two points are connected and the baguette is cut along the line.
Cutting wide molding with a pattern
If a large pattern on the surface of the border falls exactly at the junction of the internal corner, it will have to be adjusted, otherwise general form will be spoiled.
A section with a pattern is cut out of the ceiling molding, leaving a 5 cm margin on the sides. The resulting area is divided in half, that is, an even cut is made in the middle of the pattern. After this, the baguette is cut alternately in a miter box or by eye.
Some useful tips that will help you in your work:
- Before you start making final cuts, it is worth practicing on a small section.
- The baguette should be cut with front side, then the cut irregularities will remain on the reverse side.
- The cut can be carefully trimmed with a knife or sandpaper.
- The plinth should be cut on a hard, flat surface.
- If you use a miter box, for convenience it can be secured to the work surface with self-tapping screws.
- If the result is unsatisfactory and gaps at the joints are still visible, they can be carefully puttied.
If the corners in the room being renovated are even, you can buy ready-made corners for the chosen type of baguette and completely avoid the stage of cutting corners.