Spring events with rhododendrons are not as eventful as with roses. However, when opening rhododendrons, you need to follow the rules.
Opening time of rhododendrons
When above-zero temperatures are established and there are no strong night frosts in the forecast. The most important thing, as with roses, is not to expose overwintered rhododendrons to bright sun . They should be opened on a cloudy day, or in the late afternoon. For some time it is worth leaving the shelter on the south side.
We must try to do everything to make the roots of the plant work..
To do this, we rake away the mulch so that the ground thaws.
We spill rhododendron warm water. During a dry spring, we try to water as often as possible.
If, on the contrary, the rhododendron ended up in a puddle melt water, try to move this water away from the rhododendron roots as soon as possible. And in principle, this should not happen; rhododendron must be planted so that it does not end up in the flood zone in the spring. If this is not possible, make a hummock for the rhododendron to plant it on. Rhododendrons are calm about replanting, so feel free to correct mistakes, this will only benefit the plant.
Don't be afraid of the unsightly appearance of rhododendron in the spring. And most often it looks like this:
the leaves are rolled into a tube and lowered. Some leaves may be brown.
This picture shows a Haag (Hague) rhododendron after a good winter. The leaves are drooping and slightly curled.
If the leaves are very tightly curled, urgent resuscitation of the rhododendron is needed
The curled leaves will open and rise within a week or two - it depends on the weather. In a warm spring with sufficient precipitation, you can already see unfolded leaves when the rhododendron opens. As in the photo at the end of the article
Brown leaves, do not recover. Remove them before summer.
Brown leaves are the result of frostbite or desiccation. If there are too many of these leaves, the rhododendron may not survive.
The second photo shows just such an unsuccessful wintering of the Katevbinsky rhododendron; the upper shoots were very badly damaged, and later they had to be completely cut off.
But 
The record holder for survival, the Katevbinsky rhododendron, usually recovers from an almost dead state. So even if you are not at all happy with the appearance of the rhododendron after removing the cover, do not rush to destroy it. Water, water, and most often you will see new shoots by the beginning of summer.
The third photo shows the same rhododendron as the second one five years later. Nothing now reminds us of how he suffered during the winter in 2005. Then, in 2005, after pruning, it sprouted new shoots and by the fall it had almost fully recovered.
The first time you hear the name of a flower – rhododendron, it’s hard to even imagine how delicate and tender this plant is. In order to grow it on summer cottage, you have to create everything the necessary conditions for its flowering. If rhododendrons are planted in the right area, in prepared soil and mulched, then caring for them becomes much easier. In today's article we will look at all the necessary conditions for growing rhododendrons, and also get acquainted with the most popular types of these flowers.
Suitable lighting and temperature
Rhododendron reacts poorly to direct rays of the sun and highly lit areas of the ground; their destiny is shade and partial shade.
Advice: In order to understand whether the lighting is suitable for a given flower, just look at its leaves. At optimal lighting The leaves of evergreen rhododendrons are healthy, dark green, they are very decorative not only in summer, but also in winter, but if there is too much light, the flower petals become faded.
In nature, rhododendron bushes can be found, as a rule, in mountainous areas, so it is not surprising that it is there that the ideal relationship between temperature and humidity level is maintained for them.
Rhododendron bushes are practically insensitive to temperature changes - if you properly prepare for the winter season, this plant will survive the harshest winter, without digging. IN summer period optimal temperature 18-25 degrees, if the summer is hot, then you should be very careful about watering and additional spraying of the plant. 
Optimal watering
The rhododendron plant should not experience a lack of moisture, especially in the first year after planting. There is absolutely no point in flooding the bushes; excess moisture is also not suitable for this plant; it is better to water little by little, but constantly. The quality of the water used to water the plant plays a huge role in watering; it should be soft, which will also work rainwater or water from a clean reservoir.
In dry weather, the plant should be helped by regular spraying, especially during active growth, if there is even the slightest suspicion that they are experiencing water shortages.
Advice: In order to understand that the rhododendron flower does not have enough moisture, you need to pay attention to the leaves, they become dull and droop, and appear at the edges. brown spots, similar to fungal diseases.
Soil and place for planting
When choosing a place to plant, you should pay attention to the shade of the area and the trees that will be nearby. It should also be borne in mind that it must be protected from prevailing winds and direct sun rays. They do best in wooded areas, especially under pine trees and not very dense spruce trees. If there are no such trees on the site, then areas directly adjacent to the northern walls of the house and other buildings are perfect.
As for the soil, it must be acidic, air- and moisture-permeable. Optimal composition: high-moor peat (acidic), garden soil (loam) and pine litter, taken in equal parts. 
Feeding rhododendrons
The rhododendron plant needs fertilizing before flowering, immediately after it and at the end of summer - at the beginning of autumn. There is no need to invent anything special here; in any gardening store you can find ready-made soluble fertilizers for rhododendrons; 20-30 grams per 1 liter of water will be more than enough for one plant; you can add 5-10 grams of any nitrogen fertilizer to it.
Propagation of rhododendrons
Rhododendrons can be propagated different ways: seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting. Amateur gardeners prefer the vegetative method of layering. To do this, young flexible shoots take root next to the mother plant. At the same time, the inclined shoot is partially placed in a hole no shallower than 15 cm deep. Already next season you can safely dig up this new bush and transplant it to appropriate place.
For cuttings, take semi-lignified shoots, cut them into cuttings 5-8 cm long, lower leaves removed, leaving the top 2-3 completely. Rhododendrons take root quite difficult, so it is better to keep the cuttings in a solution of growth stimulants for 12-16 hours. After which the cuttings are ready for rooting.
Preparing the plant for winter
IN winter period rhododendron needs special care. Since the fall, you should carefully monitor watering, it should not be less than 12-13 liters of water at a time, then before the first frost, the bushes should be wrapped in burlap and secured with twine, this simple method will allow you not to disturb the flow of air to the plant. This shelter can be removed only when the night frosts have passed.
Advice: In spring, you should be wary of the afternoon sun no less than frosts. So for this procedure you should choose a cloudy day so as not to harm the fragile plant.
Preparing the plant for winter
The most popular types rhododendrons:
o Rhododendron japonica 
o Rhododendron Schlippenbach 
o Pink rhododendron “Percy Weissman” 
o Rhododendron white 
For a long time, it was believed that rhododendrons grow and develop well without fertilizing - this opinion was held not only by amateur gardeners, but also by specialists.
The prejudice against mineral fertilizers was especially strong, since it was believed that they were not tolerated. But as knowledge of plant mineral nutrition expanded, mineral fertilizers began to be used first in nurseries, and then for private plantings.
Nowadays, no one doubts that in order for rhododendron to grow well and develop properly, fertilizers are necessary. Moreover, recent research has shown that plants that are better supplied with nutrients are more resistant to low temperatures than those who were “starving.”
Identifying nutritional deficiencies is not difficult. Most characteristic feature is a change in the color of the leaves - they lighten, fade, and the shoots acquire a yellowish-green tint. The annual growth of such plants is very small, the buds are poorly formed, and in August - September there is an active fall of old leaves.
Rules for applying mineral fertilizers for azaleas and rhododendrons
Since rhododendron loves acidic soil, for its feeding it is necessary to use, for the most part, physiological mineral fertilizers in liquid form - ammonium sulfate, calcium sulfate, potassium phosphate and nitric acid, superphosphate.
It is important to remember that rhododendron has a superficial root system, therefore, only those methods that exclude digging are suitable for applying fertilizers.
ON THE PICTURE: Fertilizer for azaleas and rhododendrons should not contain chlorine
The ratio of the amount of fertilizer to the amount of water should not exceed 1–2:1000 (or even lower if we are talking about a solution of potash fertilizers). Young plants should be fed with less concentrated fertilizers.
You need to start fertilizing at the beginning of spring (as soon as the snow melts), and stop in mid-July, otherwise warm weather and sufficient soil and air moisture can lead to secondary growth of shoots - in our climate this phenomenon is observed in some types of rhododendron in the late August - early September. The growth process can be stopped by treating plants with a 1% solution of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH2PO4 or a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K2S04.
Fertilizing with mixtures of acidic fertilizers: magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, ammonium sulfate and superphosphate in a ratio of 2:4:9:10 gives very good results. It is recommended to apply this fertilizer in several stages:
- in early spring, during the period of bud swelling - at the rate of 100 g of mixture per 1 m 2;
- at the end of flowering - at the rate of 100 grams of mixture per 1 m 2;
- in early July - at the rate of 50 grams of mixture per 1 m 2.
If such a mixture is not available, any other complete mineral fertilizer will do, but in this case it will be necessary to add 30% ammonium sulfate.
ON THE PICTURE:
Some fertilizers increase the alkalinity of the soil, so it is necessary to regularly monitor its condition
For azaleas and rhododendrons there are general rule fertilizing: at the beginning of summer, fertilizers containing more , and from July until the end of flowering - fertilizers with a higher content of phosphorus and calcium.
Of course it's better to use ready-made mixtures mineral fertilizers, fortunately, today their choice is very large. For example, “Kemira for rhododendrons” or “Kemira universal”. It can be used for both liquid fertilizer, or simply sprinkle it around the bushes at the rate of 100 grams per 1 m2.
Microbiological preparations of the “Radiance” series in combination with organic matter give an excellent effect. For example, “Shine - 1” + mulch (pine litter) or “Shine - 3 + sawdust compost (with the addition of a small amount of cow manure).
The special fertilizer “Azalea” is best suited; it comes from different companies. During the budding period, to speed up flowering, fertilizers such as “Kemira-lux” or “Uniflor-bud” are applied, which contain a large number of potassium and phosphorus, during the growing season - nitrogen-rich "Uniflor-micro". In spring and summer they feed once a week, in autumn and winter - once every 2 weeks.
Organic fertilizers for azaleas and rhododendrons
Along with mineral fertilizers, rhododendrons also need organic fertilizers. The most accessible and common are semi-rotted cow dung and compost from pine litter. Pork and horse manure are unsuitable, as well as bird droppings, as they increase soil alkalinity.
ON THE PICTURE:If the rhododendron lacks iron, it can lead to the development of chlorosis.
Important! Don't forget to check your pH regularly substrate. For heathers, this figure should be in the range of 4.5-5, but not higher. In alkaline soils, mycorrhiza is unable to perform its function, metabolism is disrupted, and the plant is very “starving” even in rich soil.
It is advisable to apply organic, as well as mineral, in liquid form. If you use manure for feeding, it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15–20 and left for 2–3 days until active microbiological processes, and only then fertilize the rhododendron.
You can also use slurry after diluting it with water until it turns light brown. To increase the phosphate content in diluted slurry, it is advisable to add superphosphate to it at the rate of 3–4 kg. per 100 l. liquids. If you use slurry as a fertilizer for rhododendron, strictly monitor the soil reaction, since such fertilizer can change the pH level of the substrate. Before feeding, the plant needs to be watered well in order to properly wet the earthen ball.
ON THE PICTURE:
Regularly fertilized rhododendron will appear before you in all its glory - bright, juicy greenery, an abundance of flowers, lush habit.
From time to time, water your green pets with acidified water - azaleas and rhododendrons love it very much. For acidification, you can use citric or oxalic acid (1.5–2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), table or apple cider vinegar 9% (100 grams per 10 liters of water).
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Valery Prokhorov 02/25/2014 | 11920
With a lack of nutrients in rhododendrons, the color of the leaves becomes light green, their shine decreases, and the shoots become yellowish-green. In addition, the annual growth of plants is significantly reduced, flower buds are not formed, and leaves fall rapidly in August and early September. How to deal with this disease?
The mineral nutrition of rhododendrons is largely determined by the peculiarity of their root system - the presence of mycorrhiza. It contributes not only to the normal growth of plants on very acidic, element-poor mineral nutrition soils, but also the germination of their seeds. At the same time, for its normal functioning it requires acidic soil.
Due to the presence of mycorrhiza, you cannot use and chlorine fertilizers, because chlorine kills it. For the same reason, plants should not be fed with fertilizers of a high concentration of nutrient solution.
Therefore, when such signs appear, you must first pay attention to the acidity of the soil, and if it is within the range of 4.5-5.5 pH (ideally 4.7), optimize the diet.
Soil acidity can be increased by adding acidic sphagnum peat or heather soil. Accordingly, when growing rhododendrons, you cannot add lime, dolomite flour and any fertilizers that alkalize the soil. With a strong change in pH towards the alkaline side, yellow spots(chlorosis).
Feeding. Important Feature rhododendrons - very compact root system. Therefore, plants need good drainage, loose, rich in humus, with good soil aeration. If in the first years, with a well-filled planting pit, rhododendron develops normally, then in subsequent years (with a complete absence of fertilizing or a lack thereof, the supply of nutrients is depleted and the acidity of the soil decreases) its decorative value decreases, and the plant may even die.
You need to feed in early spring and after flowering during intensive growth of young shoots. At the end of July, feeding is stopped, since the heat and humidity of the soil and air can provoke secondary growth of shoots that do not have time to complete growth.
And in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. You can stop it by spraying the crown with a 1% solution of potassium sulfate K2SO4 or monosubstituted potassium phosphate KHPO4. Before any fertilizing, plants need to be watered abundantly. Organic fertilizers. Organic matter must be added in liquid, diluted form. The manure is diluted (1:15-20) and left for several days. In spring or autumn, humus can be spread in a layer of up to 5 cm near the bush. Together with melt or rain water nutrients will fall into the soil layer where the root system is located. In this case, they arrive over a long period of time and are therefore most fully absorbed by rhododendrons.
Mineral fertilizers. There are mineral fertilizers for rhododendrons. If they are absent, you can add them in early spring. ammonium nitrate(10-15 g/l); before budding - complex fertilizer; at the end of August to increase winter hardiness - fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for fertilizing is 1-2:1000 (the solution of potassium fertilizers should be even weaker).
Sometimes (usually clay soils) leaves may also turn yellow as a result of the preferential entry of aluminum ions into plants instead of iron. Watering 2-3 times in summer with iron chelate usually restores the green color.
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Rhododendron is the largest genus in the heather family (Ericaceae), named after Greek words“rhodon” (“rose”) and “dendron” (“tree”) This genus includes about 1,300 species and approximately 30 thousand varieties of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees.
Gardeners' interest in rhododendrons and azaleas is due to the decorativeness of their foliage and the variety of bush shapes, and most of all -. Plant lovers are captivated by the splendor and abundance of white, pink, lilac, violet, red flowers, collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences, reminiscent of an exquisite bouquet.
Depending on the species and variety, the flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas vary in size (from 1-1.5 cm to 6-10 cm in diameter) and shape (wheel-shaped, funnel-shaped, bell-shaped and tubular). There are rhododendrons with fragrant flowers.
The autumn decoration of the leaves of some deciduous species of rhododendrons is not inferior in beauty to the bright decoration.
There is a misconception among gardeners about the difficulty of cultivating these plants. However, in central Russia it is no more difficult to breed or. The main thing when growing rhododendrons is to follow a few simple rules common to this culture. When choosing these plants for your garden, keep in mind that for climatic conditions middle zone Only suitable for Russia.
Choosing a place in the garden to plant rhododendron
To plant rhododendron, you should choose the most suitable place in the garden, taking into account biological features of this type. Therefore, before purchasing a plant you like and planting a seedling.
The lighting conditions of the selected plant should be approximately the same as in natural environment his habitat.
The most suitable place for rhododendron in terms of lighting conditions can be considered a place where there will be open sky(which will provide plants with better access to precipitation and light), and at midday they will be covered by diffuse shadow from other plants. Perfect option for rhododendron - rare Pine forest or a clearing located between tall pines.
Rhododendrons can be planted near other trees whose roots go deep. For example, near oak or larch.
Tree species with a root system close to the surface (linden, maple, chestnut, poplar, willow, elm, alder) are not suitable for proximity to rhododendron, depriving the rhododendron of moisture and nutrition, which is why it develops poorly and may die. Therefore, in case of forced planting of rhododendron in close proximity to unwanted trees, isolation from their roots must be provided. The feeding area of the rhododendron is insulated using roofing felt, polyethylene or other materials.
A suitable place for growing rhododendrons is on the north side of the building, where the sun illuminates the plants early in the morning and in the afternoon.
When determining a place for planting rhododendrons, care must be taken to protect the bushes from prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for this crop. In open areas of the garden, rhododendrons (especially evergreen species) suffer in winter not so much from frost as from the drying effects of the wind.
It is especially undesirable to place rhododendrons near the corners of buildings where there are strong drafts, as well as in free spaces between buildings.
Reliable wind protection for rhododendrons can be provided by the walls of buildings, solid fences, hedges and plantings. coniferous trees.
It is better to plant rhododendrons in an elevated place in the garden, where there is no spring stagnation of water.
Planting rhododendron
Having chosen a suitable place in the garden for the rhododendron, you can begin preparing the seedling for planting.
The distance between bushes of tall rhododendron species is 1.5-2.0 m, medium-sized ones - at least 1.2 m, low-growing ones - 0.5-0.7 m.
Rhododendrons for good growth and lush flowering requires loose, acidic soil with a high content. Lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers that shift the soil pH to the alkaline side should not enter the root feeding zone.
The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so it is enough to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep (without taking into account the thickness of the layer of drainage materials). The width of the hole depends on the size of the adult plant. For example, for large bushes (Katevba rhododendron, yellow rhododendron), the hole should be at least 80 cm wide.
If the garden soil is clayey, then it is necessary to arrange drainage for the rhododendron seedling - to do this, pour a drainage layer (gravel or broken bricks) about 10 cm.
The planting hole is then filled with a suitable substrate.
Substrate preparation is the most important component successful cultivation rhododendrons. It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. These requirements are best met by a mixture of leaf soil, high-moor peat, and coniferous tree litter (3:2:1).
You can use a substrate consisting only of equal parts of high-moor peat and coniferous litter (pine or spruce).
Experts recommend the following substrate composition for planting rhododendron:
- sphagnum or heather soil (from under coniferous plants);
- humus or ripened;
- Part garden soil;
- cow manure (rotted is better);
- pine litter;
- fertilizer “Kemira-universal” (100 g).
The rhododendron root ball removed from the pot should be well saturated with water before planting. If it is dry, immerse it in water and wait until the release of air bubbles stops.
The rhododendron bush is planted in a hole filled with substrate at the same depth as before.
When planting, do not cover the root collar of rhododendrons with soil! Because of this, plants stop blooming and eventually die.
We take out a rhododendron seedling with a closed root system from the container, carefully straighten the roots (we cut off very long ones).
We compact the substrate in the planting hole. After planting is complete, water the rhododendron, even in the rain. After planting rhododendron, it is advisable to mulch the soil.
Mulching the rhododendron tree trunk is mandatory; this is a mandatory technique for this crop. Peat, pine litter, or dry leaves (preferably oak) are suitable as mulch. It is undesirable to use maple and horse chestnut leaves; they decompose quickly and have an alkaline reaction. You can mix peat with sawdust.
Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil, protects roots from overheating in hot weather, and from freezing in winter. Mulch suppresses weed growth; rotting, it increases the humus content and acidity of the soil. The mulch layer should be at least 5 cm. When mulching the rhododendron tree trunk circle, you should not fill the root collar.
The first time after planting, for better rooting, rhododendron seedlings should be watered frequently in small portions (3 liters of water per young plant). Then water according to the weather. In dry times, it is better to water the rhododendron daily. Also, during the dry period, you can pour the rhododendron bush “over the head” - over the leaves, but do not do this in the sun.
A young rhododendron seedling (2-3 years old) has a small root ball, so when planted immediately open place it will suffer from a lack of moisture due to the rapid drying of the top layer of soil. It is better to first plant such a young plant in some protected shaded place, in a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 20-25 cm. And after 2-3 years, transplant the grown rhododendron, as expected, to a permanent place.
Rhododendrons and azaleas tolerate transplantation well up to the age of 5-6 years.
The great advantage of rhododendrons is the possibility of planting or replanting them in the garden at any time in spring, summer and autumn due to their compact fibrous root system.
When planting small rhododendrons in the fall, it is advisable to lightly cover them with spruce branches (do not cover them with soil).
Caring for rhododendrons and azaleas
Rhododendrons do not need pruning. If desired, you can form a bush: pluck out the growing point on the branches, up to the leaves, so that the rhododendron bushes better.
In the photo: frost-resistant azaleas of the varieties “Northern Hi-Lights”, “Klondyke”, “Feuerwerk”
Feeding rhododendrons
Properly planted rhododendrons do not need additional feeding for several years. However, if you want to speed up the onset of the first flowering (or achieve more abundant flowering), then fertilizers are applied.
Fertilizers containing chlorine and lime are not suitable for feeding rhododendrons.
Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, starting in early spring and ending in mid-July.
There are a variety of liquid and granular fertilizers available that are designed specifically for rhododendrons. They should be applied according to the directions on the package.
You can use ordinary mineral fertilizers that have an acidic reaction: ammonium nitrate, urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. Their concentration should not exceed 1:1000 (and potassium - even lower).
From organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, we can recommend old, semi-rotted cow manure, which is applied on top of the soil in spring or autumn. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the pH of the soil. It is undesirable to use horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, as they increase the pH of the soil.
Azaleas and rhododendrons greatly appreciate monthly watering with sour water infused with ordinary water. To obtain such an infusion, you will need five lemons per 5 liters of water: squeeze out the fruits (throw the squeezed lemons into water) and let stand for 5-6 hours. Next, pour 2.5 liters of this acidified water under one large rhododendron bush or 1.5 liters under a small bush (up to 1 m in height).
Approximate feeding scheme for rhododendron:
- 1 feeding - early in spring;
- 2nd feeding - before flowering;
- 3rd feeding - 2-3 weeks after flowering (but no later than mid-August).
In the spring, fertilize rhododendrons with diluted mullein.
In summer - application of mullein with the addition of potassium and phosphorus. Please note that from the beginning of August, rhododendrons need to begin to be prepared for winter, reducing the amount of nitrogen in fertilizers.
In late autumn - add phosphorus and potassium.
Proper planting and proper care of rhododendrons and azaleas is the key to their endurance, successful wintering and excellent flowering.