How to insulate walls with thermal insulation. We insulate the walls in a private house from the inside with our own hands

According to all building laws, insulating walls from the inside in a private house is not entirely correct, or rather, nonsense. The dew point shifts, the surface begins to get wet, and fungus develops. It is correct to insulate the outside, but what to do if this is impossible?

Disadvantages of internal thermal insulation

Insulating the walls of a private house from the inside can lead to many problems, and the appearance of common fungus is one of them. In addition, condensation vapor will at some point find its way out, soaking through the drywall and causing it to rot. wooden lining and other finishing coat walls

When deciding on internal wall insulation, it is important to understand what dew point is. This is the contact of warm and cold air. At this moment condensation appears. When a wall is not insulated from the inside, the dew point is located in its thickness (and this is correct according to building regulations). External insulation moves it closer to the street (even better), and insulation from the inside, on the contrary, drives it into the living room. Often it appears from the inside, at the border of the wall and the insulation, or in the insulation itself. And this is fraught with the consequences described above.

According to building codes, the vapor permeability of the materials that make up the walls of a private house must be distributed in such a way that there is vapor-tight insulation inside the living space, and vapor-permeable insulation on the street side. In the middle, the vapor permeability of the material should be greater than the internal one and less than the external one.

Now let’s imagine the vapor permeability of mineral wool - a popular “breathable” insulation for interior works in a private house. Mineral wool allows steam to pass through well, while brick or concrete walls although they let him through, it’s bad. The result is an accumulation of moisture at the border with the insulation, a wall that is constantly getting wet and picking up moisture, and is also not insulated from the outside. Ultimately, the service life of a house insulated in this way is significantly reduced due to numerous freeze/thaw cycles.

The point of insulation is to insulate freezing walls from exposure to cold air, and this cannot be achieved by insulating from the inside. But when it’s cold in a private house, all methods are good. Let's consider popular insulation options.

Important. Be sure to correctly calculate the insulation for internal thermal insulation walls It is quite possible that the thickness of the walls themselves is sufficient to prevent cold air from entering the room. If this is the case, check whether the ceiling in the house is well insulated, as up to 40% of the heat can escape through it.

Insulation of walls from the inside: materials

If the insulation of the walls in the house from the inside is done correctly, but the temperature in the room is still uncomfortable, you should think about where the precious heat goes. The most likely option is the ceiling. Another thing that can speak in its favor is that the attic very often turns out to be uninsulated, not to mention the roof.

As insulation for the ceiling of a private house, it is worth considering:

penoplex;
mineral wool;
expanded clay;
ecowool;
polyurethane foam.

In all cases, except for insulation with polyurethane foam, waterproofing is laid over attic joists cleared of dust and dirt. Insulation is placed or poured into the niches between them. Mineral wool, expanded clay and ecowool necessarily require a second layer high-quality waterproofing. Penoplex does not need it due to its extremely low vapor permeability. You can lay a subfloor on top and arrange a room for storing necessary household equipment.

For polyurethane foam, you just need to clear the attic of debris and dust and call the experts. Once the insulation has hardened, the finished floor can be laid on top. To insulate the ceiling of a private house with ecowool, you will also need to call in the experts and pre-clean the attic. When all the niches between the joists are filled with insulation, you can start laying the subfloor from boards or plywood.

Aerated concrete slabs and/or rolled foil insulation are suitable for insulating the ceiling from the inside. Aerated concrete slabs are glued to the prepared (leveled) ceiling using foam glue. The joints between them are sealed with sealant. After the glue has dried, the insulated surface must be plastered and whitewashed, or another finishing option must be chosen.

Rolled foil insulation can be used as additional insulation for aerated concrete slabs or as independent insulation of a ceiling that is already thermally insulated from the attic side. This material does not require a perfectly even ceiling. It is better to purchase insulation on a self-adhesive basis. It will need to be glued to the ceiling. Then install a sheathing with a beam thickness of at least 3 centimeters. And already install the finishing coating on it, for example, suspended ceiling from plasterboard. Other options are also possible.

Internal insulation of a house is an undesirable process. It is not recommended to carry out the work yourself without consulting with specialists. They will help you calculate required thickness insulation for interior walls, they will tell you how to install it correctly and what measures to take so that the insulation from the inside does not have to be redone.

Millions of people who live in apartments know from their own experience how cold it can be in winter. Job central heating is far from ideal, and an autonomous one is not cheap (both installation and the increasing costs of public utilities).

In order to improve the microclimate in the room, as well as to avoid the appearance of mold (which is also a common problem), it is important to insulate the apartment.

Moreover, first of all, a person most often decides to do it from the inside, and insulating only the walls is both simpler and cheaper, and you can do it yourself, without resorting to the help (paid, of course) of specialists.

1 On the relevance and effectiveness of internal insulation

Initially, you should consider the overall efficiency of the work from the inside. It should be immediately noted that such (internal) insulation is always and everywhere (at home, in an apartment, in a garage, in a bathhouse, and so on) will be less effective than external insulation. The point is that the cold will still penetrate into the room - since concrete (or brick) is not a significant barrier to it.

If the insulation is located only inside the apartment, it can even become harmful to the house: the dew point will shift and condensation will form on the surface of the walls. As a result, the walls under the insulation will become overgrown with mold, which a person will not even see.

Thus, we can draw the following conclusion: if it is not possible to insulate the wall of a house from the outside, doing work from the inside is not always safe for the structure itself. Moreover exterior decoration does not have to be extremely effective - even a small layer of thermal and waterproofing will already be useful and can prevent the dew point from shifting.

Internal wall insulation will allow you to create a kind of “thermos” inside the apartment: the heat will be “locked” in the room and will not be able to escape outside. This, by the way, is relevant not only for external walls - if the apartment next door is cold, the partition adjacent to it can also be insulated. It’s easy to understand the need for work: just put your hand on this wall. If you feel a noticeable cold, it means that insulation is important.

It is recommended to especially worry about wall insulation for those who live in corner apartment– rooms located on the corner of the house are the coldest, and the humidity in them is often high. Moreover, insulation from the inside should be carried out only after insulation from the outside has been carried out - otherwise mold and mildew will appear on the surface very, very quickly.

In addition to protecting apartments from cold and moisture, installing insulation is also good because the sound insulation of the room is significantly improved. This is very important for residents of large cities, especially for those who live near:

industrial zone;
construction sites;
roads, railways;
places with large crowds of people (markets, shopping centers, stadiums);
garages;
airports.

In such cases, sound insulation is at least topical issue than insulation. Moreover modern insulation usually combines these qualities - finishing the wall of a house simultaneously insulates the structure and reduces the noise level in the room.

1.1 Why is it important to insulate walls?

Most often, in apartments, only one “side” of the structure is insulated - the walls. In most cases, this is quite enough to significantly improve the microclimate in the room.

Residents of the extreme (first and last) floors can think about insulating the floor and ceiling. If your floor and ceiling border on the neighboring apartment, their thermal insulation is not a mandatory issue, unless you want to achieve the best possible result.

It is not very important to insulate these surfaces inside apartments for the following reasons:

Thermal insulation “takes up” at least 5 (and most often more) cm of free space. With an apartment ceiling height of 2.30 (on average) m, the extra 5-15 cm will be noticeable.
The floor of the apartment is unlikely to be cold, since the heat will rise from the neighbors living below you.
Insulating the floor will create a difference in surface height, which is not always convenient.
Insulating the floor is a much more complicated procedure than insulating walls, and not every person can do it with their own hands.

Work on insulating the ceiling inside apartments is more important than insulating the floor - due to the fact that heated air always rises. In the absence of an effective “barrier” (which is the insulation), it will freely leave the room, “warming up” the floor for your neighbors above. So if your walls are already insulated, but the temperature at home is still not comfortable enough, you can think about finishing the ceiling with.

1.2 About the pros and cons of internal insulation

Compared to outside, work inside panel house have a number of differences – both positive and negative. Let's look at the advantages of this method:

you can insulate a wall with your own hands, without the use of climbing equipment;
work can be carried out at any time of the year (whereas the surface can be insulated outside only in warm, dry and windless weather);
if necessary, the insulation can be dismantled/repaired at any time.

The disadvantages of insulating apartments from the inside have already been mentioned above, but just in case, we will make a specific list of them:

reduction of free space indoors;
low efficiency in the absence of external insulation;
the need to completely redo the repairs indoors (while insulation installed outside does not require dismantling finishing materials in the house).

2 About the choice of material

Internal heat and sound insulation can be performed using several technologies. What distinguishes them from each other is the selected insulation (or rather, its type). It can be:

Sheet materials: polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), mineral wool boards.
Roll materials: mineral wool, polyethylene foam.
Sprayed (liquid) materials: foamed polyurethane foam (PPU), .

However, each insulation from the list above has a number of features - so we will consider them separately.

2.1 Application of polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

These materials can be combined into one category, since the differences between them are insignificant and consist only in a number of characteristics that have virtually no effect on the efficiency of the work. Let's give brief description these insulators: lightweight slabs of white (foam) or orange (EPS) granules that contain air.

They are supplied in the form of slabs of various sizes (most often in the range of about 1 x 2 m) and with different thicknesses - the efficiency actually depends on it: the thicker the layer, the warmer the room will be.

Among the disadvantages of insulation with Penoplex (EPS brand) or polystyrene foam, the following points can be highlighted:

the presence of joints between the sheets (and each joint is an extra chance for cold and moisture to penetrate);
sound insulation when using the material is far from ideal (except when using a layer 10+ cm thick);
the need to level the surface to a perfectly flat level.

Separately, it should be said about such a disadvantage as a significant reduction in space in the room. The insulation layer can be at least 5 cm (and this is only the insulation itself), the loss of which will be noticeable, especially considering that most apartments do not have a very large area.

Now let’s look at what exactly needs to be done to insulate the surface with Penoplex (foam plastic) with your own hands:

The surface is cleaned from finishing materials to the “bare” wall, even removed.
The evenness of the surface is checked by using a level. If there are serious differences, bulges, depressions, they should be eliminated using plaster.
The surface is inspected for cracks and holes. If present, they should be eliminated using plaster.
Sheets of material are cut into more convenient pieces (however, not too small - the optimal size would be approximately 1 x 1.5 m).
The resulting segments are “tried on” to the wall.
The segments are adjusted.
An adhesive mixture is prepared.
The mixture is evenly distributed onto the surface of the insulation.
The segment is pressed tightly against the wall, starting from the bottom corner.
To secure the material, you can additionally fix it with dowels (optimally - 5 pieces: 4 in the corners, 10-15 cm from the edge, and 1 in the center).

In this case, be careful: the dowels should not damage the wiring and should not be too long - if the partition is too thin.

After that:

The installation of insulation continues, moving sideways.
Each next row is laid offset from the previous one.
After installation of all segments and complete drying of the mixture, the joints are coated with plaster/ polyurethane foam/ sealed with construction tape.
A vapor barrier film is glued (not necessary, but recommended).

2.2 Stages of work when using polystyrene foam (video)

2.3 Application of mineral wool (slabs and rolls)

This material is not suitable for this type of work. Nowadays they choose it extremely rarely, mainly in pursuit of cheapness. According to its characteristics, it is close to polystyrene foam, but the properties of mineral wool make it less current option. The list of shortcomings is as follows:

the material is prone to moisture accumulation;
the material crumples and cakes like;
spilling cotton wool is harmful to human health (especially if children or allergy sufferers live in the house);
sound insulation is no better than polystyrene foam (or even worse);
increased difficulty during work (it is especially difficult to insulate the surface using a roll of mineral wool);
presence of joints between segments.

It is impossible to highlight any tangible advantages compared to other materials, except, perhaps, cheapness and the absence of the need for a perfectly flat surface. And even then the difference in cost, compared with the same polystyrene foam, will be minimal.

Let's look at the steps that will allow you to insulate a wall using this material yourself:

The surface is cleaned from finishing materials to the “bare” wall.
The surface is checked for holes and cracks. If available, they are covered with plaster.
The material is cut into segments of a size convenient for installation.
The sheathing is being installed.
The material is placed between the slats.
Additionally, the material is secured with dowels.
Gluing in progress vapor barrier film on top of the slats.
Further finishing work is being carried out.

2.4 Application of foamed polyethylene

From existing insulation materials This option is excellent for insulating apartments in panel house from the inside. It is a rigid roll of material, on one side of which there is a foil layer, on the other - foamed polyethylene.

With its help, sound insulation is also carried out - in this regard, the material is superior to the above-mentioned options. Its significant advantage is its thickness: a few millimeters (4-5) of Penofol are equal in effectiveness to several centimeters (3-4) of polystyrene foam. Thus, it will minimize the space in the room.

In addition, the foil side (facing inside the apartments) enhances the “thermos effect”, shielding (reflecting) heat and not letting it out of the room. And in terms of carrying out the work, it is tens of times simpler than both polystyrene foam and mineral wool - you can use it to insulate the wall of a corner (or any other) apartment simply and quickly.

2.5

Moreover, its use does not require leveling the surface and creating a multi-layer “pie”.

The stages are as follows:

The surface is cleaned of dirt and old finishing materials.
Cracks and holes (if any) are sealed with plaster.
The material is glued to the surface using a special glue.

That's all - this is the process of insulating apartments panel building ends, and you can begin further finishing.

2.6 Work steps when using polyethylene foam (video)

2.7 Application of polyurethane foam (PPU)

In terms of efficiency, this material ranks first in the list of modern insulators. It has the best quality characteristics and is practically free of drawbacks. The advantages of PU foam spraying technology include:

lack of joints;
absolute moisture resistance;
small layer thickness with high efficiency (where 5-10 cm of polystyrene foam or mineral wool is required, you can use 2-3 cm of polyurethane foam, and the result will be better);
high coating speed (in 1 work shift – 8 hours – you can cover about 100 “squares” of surface, that is, all the external walls in any average apartment).

Its use is especially relevant for corner room– since the corners themselves very often create a problem with insulation, and even specialists are not always able to insulate them correctly and efficiently. PPU is used to insulate apartments both inside and outside.

The disadvantages of such insulation of apartments include the following factors:

relatively high cost;
impossibility of doing it yourself (this requires special installation).

The stages of work when using the technology are as follows:

The surface is cleaned of old materials.
Cracks and holes are sealed with plaster (however, when using polyurethane foam, this point is not indispensable).
PPU is prepared (from two components, which are mixed right on the spot, in the installation tank).
The material is sprayed onto the wall.

The material, which is a liquid suspension, hardens upon contact with air in a few seconds, and a dense monolithic crust forms on the surface of the wall, tightly glued to the surface.

Insulation of houses is becoming more and more important with increasing prices for utilities. You can save a lot of money by doing everything yourself and first studying how to insulate private houses with your own hands. Considering that, for example, Moscow has rather cold and long winters, reducing heating costs can significantly affect the family budget.

What to insulate first?

Residents of high-rise buildings located next to the private sector see problems with insulation very well. So, at the beginning of winter, roofs where the snow quickly melts clearly indicate high heat loss in the attic. This can also be detected using a thermal imager.

Considering that warm air rises upward, and cold - from below, Special attention you need to pay attention to the ceiling and floor. Especially if the house has no basement and stands on the ground. When insulating a house externally, you should never forget about the base, so as not to create cold bridges between warm and cold surfaces.

Also, a lot of heat escapes through the windows. And if all the cracks around the openings are reliably foamed, you should carefully look at the batteries. Their length should be equal to the width of the window, and the window sill cannot overlap the radiator. After all, it is due to convection that thermal curtain, keeping out the cold from the street.

Calculation of insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation should be selected based on the material of the walls, the thickness of these walls and minimum temperature during the coldest period. According to SNiP, only 5 cm of polystyrene foam or 13 cm of vermiculite is enough to insulate a house.

But this is when additional insulation window openings and reducing the ventilation of walls.

If you need to ensure minimal heat loss, it is better to use a calculator and calculate the individual thickness of the insulation. For example, for a wall made of one brick, you will need 10 cm of mineral wool.

This will allow you to get only 37.20 kW of ash loss per heating season, instead of 166 kW without insulation.

The same 10 cm of mineral wool will be enough to insulate a house made of timber with a wall thickness of 150 mm, but the heat loss will be even lower - only 34 kW. But 35-centimeter walls made of aerated concrete can be insulated with just 5 cm of mineral wool to ensure 44 kW of ash loss.

Details about how to insulate private houses with your own hands

Insulate a private house You need to do it wisely, because redoing it will cost you more. You need to remember the basic rule - only insulate external walls. Insulation installed from the inside will not only reduce the area of the rooms, but will also shift the dew point into the house.

Condensed moisture, which has nowhere to evaporate, will cause mold to form, harming not only the building, but also the health of those living in it.

The second rule for building a wall pie is to increase the vapor permeability of materials from inside to the outside. In other words, the frame must be protected as much as possible from moisture from the inside, and steam entering the wall and ceiling material must evaporate freely.

If vapor permeability is impaired and water microparticles are retained at some stage, this again leads to the development of fungi. Particular attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the ceiling - warm and humid air rises upward and, falling on a more hygroscopic inner layer insulation, can no longer quickly evaporate through the ceilings.

Materials best suited for insulation yourself

Of course, for self-insulation materials that do not require additional equipment. Therefore, polyurethane foam and ecowool applied by spraying can not even be considered - the cost of the equipment will not pay off when used for one home.

So, the easiest to use:

slabs and rolls of mineral wool - simply laid on a horizontal surface, they need to be pressed tightly to a vertical surface, for example, with self-tapping screws with “umbrellas”;
polystyrene foam – sticks to flat surfaces using special staff and is additionally fixed with “umbrellas”.
vermiculite, expanded clay, sawdust - simply poured in the required layer into a pre-made formwork.

But to work with these materials, you will need a drill or hammer drill to make holes in the walls, a screwdriver to screw the frame, a saw or grinder to cut off the bars. So don’t think that insulation on our own- the matter is very simple, even if your hand is a little full of home construction.

Advantages, disadvantages and installation technology of mineral insulation

Mineral wool is universal - it can be used to insulate both wooden and brick buildings. Thanks to high vapor permeability, it will provide an optimal microclimate in the house without creating a greenhouse effect. But it is precisely for the ability to “breathe” that houses made of timber are so valued.

Basalt slabs are preferable in this regard. The insulation technology is extremely simple:

The frame is filled with 5x5 cm bars. wooden walls it is attached with self-tapping screws, and on concrete and brick with dowels. The bars are leveled and leveled using wooden pads.

The pitch of the bars in the frame is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation mat (so that it lies tightly, but does not sag). If a large layer of insulation is required, cross bars are placed on top of the first layer of laid mineral wool and the second layer is laid. The roof is also insulated in the same way.

Brick houses can be insulated without constructing a frame. Basalt slabs are attached using special glue and fixed with “umbrellas”.

For wooden houses a ventilated facade is used with a mandatory gap between the insulation and the siding. In this case, the mineral wool is closed windproof membrane, and puncture sites and all joints are taped with butyl rubber tape. Siding guides are placed on top of the windbreak; they will also provide the required ventilation gap.

At wet facade basalt wool is reinforced with reinforcing mesh and plastered. It is worth remembering that mineral wool is flexible material, so even a light blow to the facade can ruin the finish.

Disadvantages mineral insulation there too. In addition to the aforementioned love of mice, it is hygroscopic, so it requires good waterproofing. At improper ventilation mineral wool begins to mold, and over time it erodes and cakes.

You need to remember safety precautions when working with glass wool - fibers that get on the skin cause severe itching. Basalt wool crumbles a lot. If it gets into the lungs, the dust is not removed, so the face must be protected with a respirator and goggles.

Pros, cons and techniques of foam insulation

The main disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its low vapor permeability, so for insulation wooden buildings he doesn't fit. To avoid creating an effect plastic bottle when the house is always high humidity, it is advisable to pay special attention to ventilation.

The advantages of expanded polystyrene are obvious:

easy to install - it is lightweight and does not require a frame or formwork;
easy to cut – does not generate dust and is completely safe;
does not rot or cake;
inexpensive and durable.

PPS slabs are laid on a flat, prepared surface. There is no need to make a screed, but you will have to remove all protruding elements. The foam is attached with a special glue, and to improve adhesion, the walls are pre-treated with a primer.

The polystyrene foam is fixed with “umbrellas” with a slight indentation, and the caps are rubbed cement mortar to ensure tightness. The seams are sealed with polyurethane foam, the excess is cut off and also sealed.

The video shows in detail the entire foam insulation technology:

Bulk insulation materials and their features

Natural bulk materials They are environmentally friendly and, in some cases, low in price. So, living in a forested area, there will be no problems with sawdust, but delivery of expanded clay can be expensive. Vermiculite, in terms of its qualities, is much better than expanded clay, since it is the only insulation material that can absorb heat. So it is best used as insulation inside a wall frame.

For an industrial scale this is unprofitable, but private construction allows the use of bulk insulation even in this way.

If you need to insulate attic floor, the easiest way is to pour 15 cm of sawdust. They don’t even need to be covered with waterproofing films.

They also have disadvantages:

Due to its properties to absorb and evaporate moisture, the material itself does an excellent job of removing excess steam, reducing humidity in the house. Besides, everything bulk insulation materials are not suitable for mouse nests, which also speaks in their favor.
They also have disadvantages:
expanded clay is hygroscopic and heavy, so it is not suitable for large-scale insulation of buildings on light foundations;
Vermiculite is also quite heavy, but does not absorb moisture.

Any bulk insulation works best on horizontal surfaces, but for pitched roofs absolutely not suitable.

To build your warm house, it is enough to have the minimum required construction skills. And everything will definitely work out!

As soon as we decide to insulate the house, a huge pile of questions appears in our heads:

How to insulate walls?
How to insulate walls?
Which is better to insulate, outside or inside?
Will the house become warmer, and won’t I be throwing money away?

In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, and also talk about the currently popular materials for insulation.

How to properly insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside

Try asking any builder how best to insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why thermal insulation of walls from inside the house is so undesirable.

Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of the house wall, with insulation on the outside, on the inside, and without insulation at all:

In ordinary human language, the dew point is the place where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensation.

If you look at the diagram, you can see that to the left of the dew point there is a positive temperature, and to the right - a negative one.

When insulating from the inside:

The wall remains unprotected by home heat, since the heat barrier made of insulation will not allow it to pass into the wall. So she's in winter period will be largely exposed to frost, constant moisture, and will not have time to dry, since we blocked the path from the inside with insulation to the heat that previously protected the wall.
At the dew point, condensation collects (water vapor in the air is converted into water droplets), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
The constant formation of condensation, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various types of fungi and mold on the wall. Don’t console yourself with the thought that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing bad will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall have a detrimental effect not only on appearance, but also on the health of the residents of such a house.
If you look at the diagram, you can see that even without insulation, there will be less moisture on the wall from the inside than with insulation from the inside.

When insulating from outside:

From the street side, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and given the insulation technology, from moisture, and from the room side - by home heat, which warms up the wall sufficiently and, even in cases of various types of condensation and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
We move the dew point away from the room towards the street, which means that we also move the condensation away from the room.
Insulating the outside will significantly preserve warmth and comfort in your home.

I think it has now become clear to everyone why everyone refuses to insulate the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often resort to insulation from the outside. And it is necessary to thermally insulate the walls on the side of the room only if there is no other way out.

How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside

I described in detail about insulating walls with polystyrene foam in one of the previous articles. Here I will mention some main points.

Preparing the wall for installation of insulation

The first thing you need to do before insulating the walls with polystyrene foam or EPS is to clean the outside walls of the house from dirt, dust and, last but not least, level them. After this, they must be primed if you use glue to install the insulation.

If there are significant holes in the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the polystyrene foam board and the wall. And this is extremely undesirable, because even a slight blow or push on the insulation in the place where the hole is can deform it or break it.
If during the insulation process you encounter a small bump, it will be difficult for you to glue the polystyrene foam sheet in that place tightly to the wall.

Installation of polystyrene foam and EPS on the wall

Expanded polystyrene, as a rule, is glued to the wall using a special adhesive for polystyrene foam boards, and sometimes with special “fungi”.

In the case of insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the glue will be applied rough. There are no such problems with polystyrene foam; the glue glues it well even without additional processing, and EPS – with more smooth surface, so it needs to be processed.

Very often, for reinforcement, polystyrene foam is attached simultaneously with glue and “fungi”, which is the most reliable and correct solution.

After installing the insulation, as a rule, the outside walls are plastered or lined with facing bricks.

Insulation with polystyrene foam using wooden slats

There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam boards - using a frame made of slats or other suitable material.

Slats are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, or even better, it should be larger to create a ventilated space between the polystyrene foam and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the polystyrene foam boards are tightly inserted between them without falling out.

This type of installation is acceptable if you do not plaster or line the walls with brick, but cover them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for attaching facing materials.

How to properly insulate external walls with mineral wool

One more popular insulation materials Mineral wool insulation is used for the walls of the house.

Wall insulation with mineral wool differs from wall insulation polystyrene foam boards, primarily due to the characteristics of the insulation materials themselves.

Mineral wool, unlike expanded polystyrene, is not a sufficiently rigid insulation material, so installation of mineral wool is usually carried out using the frame method. But if the cotton insulation is of sufficient density, then builders also do not hesitate to install it with glue.

A frame is constructed from slats or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled between them.

If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall using dowel nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then use self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can secure the mineral wool with “fungi” so that it does not roll down.

Since cotton insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the insulation effect.

It is also advisable to build, more or less reliable protection from various rodents by installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.

When facing walls from the outside with brick, insulation is placed between the main wall and the facing wall, and these two walls are connected with special bonds that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from rolling down in the future.

Insulation of external walls with polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most modern look insulation, but also one of the most expensive. There are many advantages to insulating walls with polyurethane foam:

after application it expands, filling all depressions, crevices, etc.
at a certain density, vapor permeability is very low, which eliminates additional vapor barrier
has good adhesion, i.e. sticks well to the wall
after hardening it has good mechanical strength
good heat and sound insulating properties

Of course, every coin has two sides, and here too, there are plenty of disadvantages:

low density polyurethane foam, has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
low fire resistance
expensive material
Spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically eliminates insulation with your own hands
aging of polyurethane foam over time, with deterioration of thermal insulation properties

It is better to entrust the insulation of the outside walls of a house with polyurethane foam to professional workers using personal protective equipment, since the spraying process releases dangerous toxic substances.

The ideal option is to insulate the house during construction: it is easier to carry out all the work taking into account the design, select materials and carry out all the work sequentially. But this may not be possible, for example, if the building was purchased ready-made or the need for additional thermal insulation was not taken into account during construction. In this case, it remains possible to start insulating the walls inside the house when it is completely completed.

The easiest way to have a beautiful front lawn
Of course you saw perfect lawn in the cinema, on the alley, and perhaps on the neighbor’s lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area on their site will no doubt say that it is a huge amount of work. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, and watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think this way; professionals have long known about the innovative product - liquid lawn AquaGrazz.

Types of insulation of an individual house

All types of insulation are divided into two main ones: external and internal. Like any construction technologies, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account when choosing in a particular situation.

The external method of carrying out work, as the name suggests, involves equipping the building’s walls with insulating elements from the outside. The advantages of this technical solution include:

preventing negative aggressive effects on external walls environment- this increases the service life of facades and external elements of the “box”;
internal usable area the premises will not be reduced by the installation of additional insulating structures;
the location of the dew point outside the building, which prevents fogging of the internal walls.

But, unfortunately, this method may not always be used. The reason may be the need to save natural look facades, or they are structurally designed in such a way that they do not allow the use outdoor installation insulation.

In this case, work is carried out to insulate your home from the inside. This technique also has clear advantages, especially for individual developers, the main one of which is ease of installation - the ability to carry out insulation work is quite accessible to any home craftsman.

Important! The internal insulation method is the only way out when additional thermal insulation is required city apartment in a high-rise building.

Before installing the selected material for thermal insulation, you should take into account the biggest and most important disadvantage of this type of work: the dew point, which, due to the location of the warm layer on the inside of the walls, is located inside the room. Since the wall remains cold, moisture condenses inside between it and the layer of insulating material.

The appearance of condensation is fraught with many troubles, ranging from the formation of fungal and mold formations, to the appearance of cracks and destruction of walls under the influence of ice microcrystals. A mandatory action will be to carry out a carefully thought-out hydro- and vapor barrier of the walls and insulation.

For independent insulation of walls indoors, there are several on the market. available types material.

Penoplex

Currently, when carrying out thermal insulation work in buildings internal method Penoplex (expanded polystyrene) is used more often than others. It is produced in a factory by foaming polystyrene and molding it under slight pressure into slabs with different thicknesses and overall dimensions.

As the thickness of the slab increases, so does its thermal insulation properties. Due to its low density (the material is very light), simple processing and installation, penoplex is especially convenient for independently conducting works - it can be installed even alone.

In addition to its low cost, expanded polystyrene has a number of positive parameters due to its chemical and physical properties:

low thermal conductivity allows you to effectively retain heat without releasing it outside the premises;
has the property of absorbing sound, which makes it an additional effective sound insulator - sounds from outside will penetrate less into the room;
is hydrophobic, that is, it cannot transmit or absorb moisture;
the consequence of the previous is the preservation of properties under the influence of a humid environment;
long term services;
lack of self-decomposition with the release of toxic substances - its use is safe indoors;
is not affected by temperature fluctuations and is able to maintain properties over a very wide range;
low density leads to low weight - transporting, carrying and installing insulation is not difficult;
easy to process with the simplest set of tools;
non-flammable, which is especially important when used indoors near electrical cables;
chemically and biologically inert - does not rot and does not form the basis for the formation of fungus and mold.

Technological sequence of work

Brief step by step description installation of insulation:

We prepare the internal surfaces of the walls - cleaning, sealing cracks and cracks using a spatula and putty mixtures;
We prime surfaces using acrylic primers to protect against the possible appearance of fungus or mold;
We apply a layer of glue to the dry, primed wall (the same as on a polystyrene board) and glue the insulation to the wall. It is necessary to glue from the bottom up, sealing the cracks with construction foam;
The glued slabs should be secured with plastic dowels for reliability (attach the corners and center);
Carry out waterproofing by covering the slabs with plastic film high density, gluing their joints with mounting tape;
A plaster mesh is stretched over the waterproofing layer;
Plaster is applied over the mesh and finishing coverings.

The work with penoplex is completed - the room is insulated and ready to move in.

Before mass use polymer materials The most common was the use of mineral wool in both industrial and individual construction.

Important! The industry produces several types of mineral wool: stone, glass and slag. The optimal set of properties is stone. But you should be careful when using glass wool - it can become a source of serious trouble if you do not follow special measures safety when working with it.

The thermal insulation material produced in rolls, rigid slabs or flexible mats. Mineral wool is still widely used and has a number of characteristic advantages:

has good insulating properties (low thermal conductivity);
has sound absorption properties (noise protection);
does not interfere with the passage of vapors;
does not emit toxins - environmentally friendly material;
good heat resistance allows use in close proximity to heat sources (stoves, fireplaces, chimney ducts and pipes);
moisture resistance - mineral wool is not saturated with moisture;
does not rot and does not allow mold and fungi to develop;
does not respond to sudden and significant temperature changes;
does not burn;
has a long service life.

You should pay particular attention to the disadvantages of this material- first of all, this is its large mass, so you should always carefully calculate the possibility of additional load on the walls due to the weight of the insulation. In addition, increased vapor permeability leads to the threat of moisture accumulation near the walls, therefore prerequisite thorough waterproofing is performed.

Sequencing

Work on thermal insulation of premises from the inside with mineral wool looks like this:

The surface of the walls is thoroughly cleaned;
Cracks and crevices are sealed;
The walls are covered with plastic film using thin slats. The seams are taped with mounting tape;
A lathing made of wooden blocks is attached to the wall - the distance between them should coincide with the width of the roll or slab of mineral wool;
Mineral wool is laid tightly, end-to-end;
The joints are taped with tape;
On top it is necessary to make another layer of waterproofing from polyethylene film (completely similar to the first);
“Closing” is carried out, that is, the internal rigid part of the insulating layer is installed. The materials you can use are plasterboard, lining and others.

Upon completion it is made decorative finishing surfaces - this completes the procedure for insulating the room using mineral wool.

Foil materials

Technological progress does not stand still, and more and more new developments and materials appear. Foil insulation is quickly and actively conquering the market and has already become popular and in demand everywhere.

Important! Structurally, foil insulation is a flexible thin heat-insulating material coated with metal foil. The foil itself cannot be classified as a heat insulator, since it is very thermally conductive. But its role is to reflect infrared radiation: it simply reflects heat back into the room, and thin layer The heat insulator completes its work - almost all the heat remains inside the building.

The industry has already established the production of a whole range of similar materials - they may have a heat-insulating layer of foamed polyethylene or polystyrene, or they may be based on mineral wool. They may have foil on one side, or they may have foil on both. There are even options with a self-adhesive composition, which makes placing the material on the wall as easy as possible.

One of the most widely used materials produced using ultra-modern technology is penofol. The procedure for insulation with its help is as follows (for other options for foil insulation, the process is similar):

As in other cases, the first step is to clean the surface of the walls;
Sealing gaps and cracks in surfaces;
Fastening the wooden bars of the sheathing - the distance between them corresponds to a roll of penofol;
Laying insulation with foil towards the room. It must be placed end-to-end, sealing the seams with foil tape;
Finishing the surface (plaster, lining and others).

This completes the entire insulation process. As can be seen from the above diagram, this is the simplest insulation method that does not require waterproofing measures - heat insulating materials with foil based polymer insulation do not require additional work.

Wooden house - insulation features

The natural wall material - wood - determines some features when insulating walls inside wooden house:

Pre-treatment of the wall with antisecticides;
Treating surfaces with compounds that prevent wood rotting;
Carefully check the surface for cracks and cracks formed during shrinkage wooden structure. If found, it is necessary to carefully caulk them;
The need for vapor barrier - moisture should not penetrate to the wood of the walls.

When a wooden house is insulated from the inside, this leads to an increase in humidity in the room. For elimination this deficiency needs to be installed coercive system ventilation - this will return comfort to the room and eliminate the threat of condensation.

As can be concluded from all that has been said above, choosing interior work for insulating a house with your own hands has many disadvantages when compared with externally. But if necessary, such work can be carried out without extra costs and with high result, especially when using modern materials, the main thing is to carry out all work competently and carefully follow the insulation installation technology.