The brick cladding has cracked, what should I do? Repairing cracks in brick walls

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Good afternoon The house is 2 years old from the date of construction.

Foundation:
Reinforced monolithic tape (3 rows of 3 rods of 14 reinforcement, vertical rods every 1.5 meters) laid to a depth of 1.5 m, tape width 50 cm. Insulated blind area 1 meter wide, gutters, storm drainage system (i.e. water from drains are diverted several meters from the house). No vertical waterproofing was done. There is no drainage due to the complexity of the organization and the impossibility of draining water (house within the city, dense buildings).
The foundation was laid on the site of the old house with the complete removal of the previous foundation (there was a shallowly buried tape), there were no cellars. There was a toilet 2.5 meters deep - it was filled and compacted, it was located under the north-eastern corner of the current house.

Soil: 20-50 cm fertile layer, then 3-5 meters of water-saturated loam and clay. The peculiarity of the soil is that due to poor water permeability, loams are saturated with water most of the year. The water level in the well is from 20-50 cm in spring, to 2.5-3 meters at the end of dry summer. In “normal” weather - 1.5 meters from the ground level. After the construction of the house, the site is raised approximately 50 cm to the level of the neighbors.

Base: 4 rows hollow sand-lime brick. Horizontal waterproofing was made between the tape and the plinth and between the plinth and load-bearing walls (two layers of roofing felt).

The walls are “well” masonry. The main walls are made of autoclaved gas silicate D600, then 5 cm of insulation (penoplex), a minimal ventilation gap, then a facade of half sand-lime brick. The connection between the wall and the cladding is continuous welded mesh 1.5 mm every three rows of gas silicate. The walls, insulation, and cladding rest entirely on the base.

The house has two floors. Armored belts were made between the first and second floors and between the second floor and the roof.

The lintels above the windows and openings for the main walls are made of factory reinforced concrete lintels (the lintels are 50-60 cm wider than the openings, the supporting points are reinforced with sand-lime bricks). The lintels on the cladding are made using metal corner 10x10 wide, 1 cm thick, corners are also 50-60 cm wider than the openings.

Noticed a crack under the wide window on east side Houses. The crack runs from the window through 4 rows of bricks vertically, then moves slightly towards the veranda (3 more rows), closes before reaching the base of the 3rd row (see figure, the crack under the widest window and its direction is shown in red). It is noticeable that it opens slightly at the top (up to 1 mm).

Immediately after construction, a similar crack appeared under a narrower window on the south side (see figure) - it also runs through several rows. However, the crack on the south side is more like an expansion joint - when the wall heats up, it closes completely, but in cold weather it is slightly open (~1 mm).

The new crack under the wide window is not the same as the crack under the narrow window. The main difference is that it has a distinct opening. I have been observing the crack for several days and so far I have only noticed dynamics in its increase. Lighthouses are bursting. It does not depend on air temperature. Inspected the base with inside- noticed hairline cracks on the bricks approximately in the area of ​​the crack under the window. There are no cracks in the foundation.

Please tell me whether to worry or not? What can be done to determine the cause of the crack and eliminate it...

A common problem is cracks in a brick house, which arise for various reasons. Correctly sealing cracks in brick walls allows you not only to externally cover up a cracked area on the wall, but also to prevent the problem from recurring. A gap can form on a load-bearing wall, which is the most dangerous, especially in a multi-story building.

Why it occurs: main reasons

If a brick wall is cracked, then you need to find out what the sources of the violation are. Brickwork often cracks with front side, which may be due to an incorrectly selected solution or decorative tiles, disrupted work technology when facing the facade of the building. Cracked brick walls with outside often explained by variable climatic conditions, under which very coldy are replaced by hot days, as a result of which the foundation cannot withstand.

If horizontal or vertical cracks in the brickwork are not repaired and eliminated promptly and correctly, the entire structure may collapse.

Permanent sources

If it burst bearing wall made of brick, then the reason may lie in improper shrinkage multi-story building, which is due to different pressures on the foundation at the corners of the building. This happens in situations where one wall is completely blank from sand-lime brick, and the second is glazed. There are other constant factors that influence the appearance of cracks:


A defect in the wall may appear if the house is close to a highway where heavy vehicles often travel.
  • External influence, in which water is pumped out, pits are dug and other manipulations are performed that lead to subsidence of the foundation.
  • Specific influence of heaving type soil. When it freezes, there is an uneven rise, and when it thaws, the foundation shrinks unevenly on all sides.
  • Mechanical factors. When the amount of reinforcement is reduced or missing expansion joints and omissions, the masonry or facing brick cracks.
  • Impacts of dynamic type. These include works technical equipment which are carried out near multi-storey buildings. It is also possible for cracks to appear in brick walls if the road is close to where heavy vehicles regularly move.

Temporary

The appearance of such cracks in brick house is associated with the influence of such factors:

  • natural deformation processes during shrinkage of the structure upon completion of construction;
  • temporary load on the surface located next to housing;
  • deviations during the construction of walls, for example, when connecting an old and a new building, in which the brickwork is performed incorrectly;
  • wear of bricks during prolonged use due to high humidity.

How dangerous?


To monitor the dynamics of the crack, controller papers are glued to it.

If it burst multi-storey building And renovation work were not carried out on time, then the crack is dangerous due to a large discrepancy. To determine the level of danger, it is necessary to position the control clamp, observing the condition of the seam. If it is difficult to deal with the problem of damage to brick walls yourself, then call a specialist. The specialist has special plate-type beacons, which are registered with the supervisory authorities. If it is impossible to call the technician, perform the following actions:

  • In the place where the brick bursts, glue paper strip, indicating the date of its recording.
  • Use cement mortar to make a small horizontal strip over the crack that appears.

Regularly check the condition of the control beacon. Sometimes it remains unchanged even after 2-3 months. On average, it takes a year to fully assess the condition of a brick wall. The damage to the controller shows how dangerous the crack is. If it breaks, it is necessary to tighten the walls brick house using technical solutions.

If the control beacon remains undamaged, then there is no need to worry and it will be enough to just hide the defect by covering it with plaster along the formed seams.

Elimination of external cracks

Such types of damage to masonry occur frequently and require the following actions:


To fix the external crack, a reinforced mesh is used.
  1. The place where the brick is cracked is thoroughly cleaned of plaster and dirt.
  2. Prime the wall with a solution containing deep penetration and glue the mesh for putty.
  3. Apply a special reinforced putty for external works. If you choose a conventional material, the crack may soon reappear after a few weather exposures.

If deep cracks appear not only in the facing brick, but also in the masonry, then more radical measures. Sometimes it is necessary to reinforce the foundation with reinforcement. Major elimination of cracks in brick walls is carried out as follows:

  1. Clean all the plaster and attach a special metal mesh, which is secured with bolts.
  2. A solution of cement and sand is applied on top of the mesh, and the layer of plaster should be the same as the previous one so that there are no differences.

One of the most popular materials for the construction of various objects is brick. However, this material is not ideal, and buildings made from it may experience defects and damage during use.

The most common defect is cracks in the wall. Correcting such a deficiency will not be difficult. To do this, you need to find out the cause of the crack and select the necessary technological method to eliminate it.

Peculiarities

The appearance of cracks on brick wall surfaces is a bad sign. However, with a properly laid foundation and correct execution cracks should not occur in the masonry.

Any visible flaw indicates non-compliance with construction or use standards and requires immediate correction of the cause of its appearance. The level of difficulty in sealing cracks in wall surfaces depends on their thickness and depth (sometimes you have to dismantle the required area of ​​​​the brickwork).

You can repair the crack yourself if you follow our recommendations. We will help you eliminate any defects (for example, cracked surface load-bearing wall).

Causes of cracks

There are several reasons that create this unpleasant problem.

  • Absence or unsuitability of connections between blocks. Appears as vertical crack along the entire height of the wall (occurs when constructing an extension to an existing building or when the work is not carried out correctly). It is possible to get rid of the gap only if a preliminary screed is made with a reinforced belt.
  • Disadvantages when laying the foundation of a building: pouring the foundation to a shallow depth (less than the ground freezing level), using granular or mineral blocks, using concrete with poor strength and frost resistance. External manifestations: cracks in corner areas or rapidly increasing cracks in the upper parts of brick wall surfaces.

This can be avoided by strengthening the perimeter of the foundation by creating a belt of concrete.

  • Erroneous determination of soil quality, due to which errors occur when taking into account the load. This also includes soil deformation as a result of vibrations, natural phenomena (for example, active groundwater), as well as work being carried out nearby the object. All this leads to the appearance large cracks over the entire surface of the walls.
  • Subsidence of the structure during the first year of operation. This manifests itself in the form of small and shallow cracks, which do not subsequently increase in size. To eliminate them, you only need to make minor repairs.
  • . Cracks occur in areas of greatest stress. To avoid this, you need to distribute the load evenly and carry out necessary places screed

In order to repair a crack in the wall of a brick house, you should follow simple instructions:

  • carefully inspect the entire building, identify and eliminate sources of cracks;
  • periodically check the condition of wall surfaces;
  • if the slightest cracks are detected, you must immediately do everything possible to prevent the spread of defects;
  • when cracks form, it is necessary to clear the necessary internal area of ​​the cracks, as well as to maximize interaction with finishing agents;
  • After checking the walls and treating the cracks, the discovered cavities should be covered and external insulation (or finishing) should be done.

Until the cause of the flaw is determined, there is no point in doing anything to correct it.

In addition, it is necessary to constantly check for the rate at which cracks are growing. To do this, the gap must be marked with markings made of putty or concrete mortar. The desired strip sizes are 100x40mm with a layer thickness of less than ten millimeters. There is also a simpler method using paper. Checking for tears should be done every day for five weeks. If problems arise, it is necessary major renovation foundations of the structure and professional assistance.

It is worth remembering that a crack width greater than twenty millimeters is critical. In such a situation, auxiliary reinforcement of crack edges and strengthening of brick structures is necessary. Areas susceptible to destruction need to be dismantled.

If after checking you note that the crack has not increased, then you can use simple method sealing a crack in a brick wall.

Methods for fixing cracks

It is worth remembering that the occurrence of vertical cracks with a width of ten millimeters is a harbinger of the destruction of the walls of the structure. Therefore, repair this crack cement mortar It won’t work without a strong metal tie. In this regard, there are several repair options.

  • Driving in special anchors made of metal into dowels mounted along the edges of the crack.
  • Installation of longitudinal metal brackets with bends at the edges into pre-drilled holes in wall surfaces (later they should be covered with cement mortar). This method is the easiest and most reliable when correcting through cracks with outside.

  • Strengthening brickwork from the inside with special fastening compounds. When installing fasteners into the wall surface, they must be recessed to a great depth (more than half the entire thickness of the wall). It is entirely possible to alternate fasteners. In practice, sealing cracks in brick wall surfaces is done after installing fixing structures.
  • Using reinforcement mesh It is rational if you want to strengthen the entire area of ​​the structure, because even a careful calculation of the foundation does not guarantee the absence of the risk of shrinkage. When choosing a method and material for repairing cracks, it is necessary to take into account the upcoming exterior finishing. All details from metal material are treated with anti-corrosion compounds and are masked by painting or covered with plaster.

How to seal cracks

Compositions for sealing cracks depend on the location of the flaws (inside, outside the house or even under a window). It is possible to close the crack indoors using a gypsum-based composition or a mixture of lime and cement. For external installation, it is better to choose the most moisture-resistant materials (otherwise, the finish will not last long).

  • For minor cracks(less than five millimeters wide) repair using cement mortar is suitable. In situations where microscopic shrinkage cracks do not exceed one millimeter, it is better to cover them with epoxy resin.
  • For defects between five and ten millimeters in length sealing can be done with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 2 or 1: 3. To achieve a plastic consistency, you need to add water.
  • For more problematic cracks in wall structures made of brick (as well as in structures with a layer of air) great solution will become foam for installation. Such material requires mandatory protection from sun rays, therefore, after hardening, excess foaming is removed.

  • For various types of defects will do cement composition with the addition of polymers from the M400 grade category. The compositions are passed through a fine grid with a medium-sized grain of sand or wood glue based on polyvinyl acetate and water. In such cases, PVA is added in excess (from one liter per bucket) and is added to the composition last.
  • For problem areas walls(from the inside or outside) you can use silicone-based sealant. The advantages of such a product include the plasticity and long service life of the material, tolerance to changes in temperature and humidity, ease of sealing cracks using mounting gun. Disadvantage this method are big financial expenses, therefore it is not suitable for large areas and volumes.
  • If it is necessary to eliminate defects on the outside and if there is an outdated mortar, mixtures with the addition of brick crumbs are used.

Upon completion of the repair, the condition of the brick surfaces must be carefully inspected within two months.

First of all, it is necessary to understand the nature and type of defects that cause destruction of the finishing layer.

The most common defect is cracks. However, shooting is an equally serious problem. They can be caused either by a violation of construction technology or by the poor quality of the material itself.

Shootings and ways to deal with them

Shots (“dutikki”) are small craters and dips on the surface of a brick, in the center of which there are often small granules of quicklime. They are mistakenly called chips, but this is the wrong term, since chips are of mechanical origin, and shootings appear as a result of poor-quality grinding of raw materials.

The process of making bricks involves grinding the clay mass. Often it contains particles of lime, which, if ground poorly, end up in finished product. If water gets in from the solution, precipitation or when thawing after frost quicklime reacts with it, and the carbon dioxide released in the process causes shooting of the material. This leads to the surface losing its attractive appearance. A large number of such granules in the structure can cause destruction of the entire facing layer. Usually shootings appear after the first winter.

There are several ways to solve this problem:

  • treatment with hydrophobic materials;
  • repair by filling defects;
  • varnish coating;
  • laying the facing layer from scratch.

Since the reason for the shooting is the low quality of the material, when choosing a facing brick it is necessary to carefully inspect it for the presence of lumps of lime, and also read the documents confirming that the products comply with GOST 530-2012.

Cracks

In the vast majority of cases, the formation of cracks in facing bricks indicates a violation of technology construction work. Usually their appearance is caused by deformation of the base of the house when the foundation is subjected to loads exceeding permissible values.

In general, there are quite a few reasons for the formation of cracks, so they need to be clarified based on a specific case. For example, one of them may be a gasket engineering communications by digging a trench under the base of an already erected structure. This leads to sagging of part of the foundation and a decrease in its strength, and the resulting in this case deflection can cause destructive stresses in the wall.

Cracks in facing bricks: causes of formation

The appearance of thin, so-called thread-like or hairline cracks on facing bricks is most likely caused by uneven natural shrinkage of the house. There is no reason for serious worries, but it’s worth playing it safe - installing beacons and starting to monitor progress. If they are missing, then the defects can be painted over, repaired and forgotten about.

In the case when the opening of cracks increases, the reason for this most likely lies in the foundation, and when it is being constructed without preliminary design calculations, there is no point in doubting this.

The main mistakes during construction that lead to the formation of cracks in facing bricks are:

  • incorrect choice of foundation type;
  • insufficient width and shallow foundation laying depth;
  • poor quality or untimely implementation of foundation waterproofing;
  • insufficient compaction or lack of sand cushion under the foundation;
  • lack of deep drainage during the construction of houses with basement floors;
  • arrangement basement without appropriate reinforcing structures;
  • improper installation or absence of a storm drainage system.

To get rid of cracks on the surface of facing bricks, it is first necessary to eliminate the cause of their formation. Only after this can you proceed directly to eliminating the gaps.

Methods for eliminating cracks

In practice, facing bricks most often crack above and below doorways and windows, as well as in the corners of houses. However, regardless of where the cracks are located, their opening should be measured before repair measures. Used for repairs cement-sand mortar, mixed in a 1:2 ratio, and polyurethane foam. Its technology directly depends on the size of the defect:

  • 1-5 mm - the edges of the crack are carefully knocked down with a hammer or slightly trimmed with a grinder equipped with a concrete disc. Using a spatula, the gap is cleaned of sand particles and dust, and then moistened, for example, with a household spray. After this, carefully fill the gap with the solution as deep as possible.
  • 5-12 mm - also knock down and trim the edges of the crack, remove debris and dust, slightly moisten the cavity with water and fill it polyurethane foam. After hardening, the protruding areas of the foam are removed and the gap is carefully sealed with a solution.
  • 12 mm or more - provided that the causes of their formation are eliminated, repairs similar to those described are performed, and then additional tightening elements are installed, which can be made independently. Before their installation, grooves are prepared, the depth and width corresponding to the thickness and width of the steel strip, and holes are made along its edges for subsequent fastening of the element to the wall anchor bolts. After installing the tension plates, the grooves and cracks are filled with mortar and the wall is leveled.

In order to effectively eliminate cracks in facing bricks and prevent the formation of new defects, it is necessary to determine the causes of this phenomenon as accurately as possible. As a warning and preventive measures It is recommended not to skimp on design and technical documentation, and also to eliminate even minor errors that may affect the reliability and strength of building structures.

Subject to the latest design trends, most owners of private houses and cottages external design buildings opt for brickwork. This coating provides buildings with a beautiful appearance, and also serves as a protective, decorative and facing material. In terms of its strength characteristics, facing bricks are superior to many finishing options, so in our country it is especially in demand even if high cost material and installation work. However, to maintain wear resistance, the coating needs to be maintained to avoid such phenomena as cracks in the facing brick.

Causes of cracks in facing masonry

Even with strict adherence to the rules of house construction, there is a possibility of unpleasant situations arising in the form of shrinkage and temperature deformation of coatings. They are also the main causes of cracks in brick facing surfaces. Deformation can lead to various phenomena:

  • to shrinkage due to exposure to moisture, which causes a decrease in volume, compaction and hardening of the facing coating;
  • to change linear dimensions during thermal compression and expansion.


The shrinkage process is natural and usually occurs over several years. But temperature deformation is mainly influenced by the change of season, daily temperature fluctuations, and the position of the lined walls in relation to the cardinal points. Note that the front surfaces of walls located on the sunny side of the house are more susceptible to linear expansion. These phenomena can be prevented by following a few simple rules.

How to prevent cracks from forming in brick cladding: 7 tips from professionals

Considering the likelihood of linear shrinkage of bricks and periodic temperature fluctuations, the formation of cracks in the cladding of a building can be prevented by adhering to the following rules:

  1. Dry the facing products as much as possible before laying them on the main surface.
  2. Strictly follow the masonry methodology, based on the arrangement of so-called bonded rows. The method involves laying bonded rows of solid elements in places such as the upper and lower rows of the structure being built, in belts and cornices, under beams, purlins and load-bearing slabs, as well as every four spoon rows. In addition, the facing masonry must be tied with anchors and unloading belts must be used.
  3. In progress facing masonry use reinforcement steel mesh with a diameter of 2-3 mm. Such a mesh will reduce the deformation load on the facing surface, thereby contributing to the long-term preservation of its integrity.
  4. Establish expansion joints along the entire masonry surface, which in the cladding will simultaneously perform the functions of both shrinkage and expansion joints. Their thickness should not exceed 15 mm.
  5. Avoid getting moisture on the facing brick during its transportation, handling and installation.
  6. Avoid freezing and thawing of the building walls.
  7. Carry out facing masonry using the most rigid mortar, plasticizers and non-shrinking additives to avoid wetting of the products and to prevent the appearance of cracks during the drying of the facing surface.

Although cracks in the facing brick coating do not affect load-bearing capacity masonry, yet they spoil its appearance.

How to extend the service life of facing bricks

To extend service life brick cladding your home and identify possible cracks in time, the first thing you need to do is inspect facing covering in order to identify and further eliminate defects. At this stage, not only the outer walls of the building, but also the masonry joints are carefully checked. All chips and cracks in the facing brick are sealed using a special sealant, which is selected for color shade main material. For seams, as a rule, solutions similar to those used in the production of masonry are used - this way the restored sections of the facing masonry will not stand out from the overall architectural composition.


Next stage involves cleaning brickwork from dirt and dust, while experts do not recommend using wet method. It is better to wipe the surface with a soft, dry cloth, thereby preventing moisture from entering the brickwork.

To ensure optimal protection of facing brickwork on finishing stage it is recommended to apply additional protective layer– this can be a special varnish, water repellents or clinker oil. These types of coatings will well protect the cladding of your home from negative impact factors for a long time. Even after they become unusable, varnish and paint compounds are much easier to remove and cheaper to reapply than to restore the brickwork itself. At the same time, the well-groomed appearance of the building will continue to delight the eyes of its owner.

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