When does a plum tree begin to bear fruit after planting? The period when plums begin to bear fruit after planting. In what year does the plum bear fruit.

There may be several reasons why a plum tree does not bear fruit. Most often, six reasons can be identified. By eliminating them, you can ensure that the tree bears fruit constantly.

So, the reasons why your plum tree remains neither blooming nor bearing fruit:

physiological carrion;
sterility of the tree variety;
the presence of infectious diseases in the tree;
insects - pests;
climate features;
conditions in which the tree was planted.

Physiological carrion, this is a defect as a result of which the plum ceases to bear fruit. Outwardly, this can be noticed when several trees begin to bloom at the same time, and ovaries appear on them at the same time.

But one tree cannot provide adequate nutrition to all the new fruits, and as a result, some of the ovaries fall off. The reason for this is weak roots.

In this case, combating or preventing the defect will have no effect. There are cases when tree owners form the crown of a plum tree in such a way that only part of the ovaries falls off, but this happens very, very rarely.

The sterility of the variety, the name of the defect speaks for itself. When purchasing seedlings, the variety was selected incorrectly; as a result, gardeners have been waiting for fruits from the plum tree for several years without success.

It should be noted that the vast majority of plum varieties are sterile. In order for these varieties to bear fruit, pollinator trees of a different variety must be planted nearby.

With the help of insects, through cross-pollination, a plum tree can bear fruit. But this method does not provide any guarantee, because insects are active only in good weather. In the rain, flowers may not be pollinated.

Therefore it's better choose fruit-bearing varieties that self-pollinate. Among these are:

Niagara;
Stanley;
Italian Hungarian;
Anna Shpet;
Monarch;
Herman.

Some infectious diseases may prevent plum trees from bearing fruit. The most common types of infections are:

Clusterosporiasis. This is a fungus that attacks the tissue of newly born leaves. The fungus appears as a small reddish spot that gradually dies, leaving holes in the leaves. The pathogenic fungus, in addition to leaves, infects branches, trunk and even fruits.

Gray fruit rot. This disease looks like a small gray spot on the fruit. With this disease, the flesh of the fruit rots, and small ash-gray spots are visible outwardly. The germ of this disease carries winter time on diseased parts of the tree.

The disease can be avoided if prevention is carried out. You can burn leaves, pick infected fruits, and also spray trees with special preparations several times a season.

Plum may stop bearing fruit due to the invasion of insect pests. These can be plum sawfly larvae, plum moth caterpillars, and plum moth caterpillars.

These insects eat the seeds of the fruit and the fruit itself. Affected fruits fall from the tree.

You can fight pests by treating trees chemical compounds, using trapping belts, digging up the ground around the tree.

The codling moth can be destroyed using microbial preparations. Insecticides work well against thick legs.

Why doesn't the plum tree bear fruit? Plum sawyer:

Weather is another factor, due to which the plum may stop bearing fruit. The buds may freeze after the spring thaw. With temperature fluctuations and strong winds, pollen sterilization may occur. IN harsh conditions the plum is very uncomfortable, but in the heat the plum can dry out.

When purchasing seedlings, you need to take into account climatic conditions and select a variety that will have time to ripen the fruits during the warm season.

The conditions under which trees are planted directly affect their ability to bear fruit. Plums are very capricious trees. The soil under the plum should not contain a high concentration of acids.

To neutralize, you can pour ash or slaked lime into the ground. Plum trees should not be planted in the shade or next to a large tree. Plum feels great in the sun. If she doesn't have enough light, she will stop bearing fruit.

It also happens that In the spring, plum trees bloom, but do not bear fruit. and even their ovaries fall to the ground. There may be several reasons for this.

Freezing. When a plum blossoms, you need to consider not only the flower itself, but also its pistil. You need to pay attention to its color. If the pistil freezes in winter, it will be black.

A healthy pistil is always green. The tree may freeze during the flowering period if the temperature drops below zero degrees in the spring. If the pistil is damaged, the fruit will not set after flowering.

Poor pollination. Most plum trees are self-pollinating, but if one tree or several of the same variety are planted in a garden plot, the trees may bloom, but no ovaries will appear. It is better to plant several trees of different varieties.

Trees may not be pollinated if there are few bees in bad and rainy weather. Rain is also dangerous because during it, pollen rolls off the flowers. Wet pollen does not promote ovary formation.

Unregistered varieties. The plum variety must be suitable for the natural conditions of the area in which it will be grown. Having purchased exotic variety, you can never expect fruit from it.

Lack of nutrition. A very common reason that ovaries do not form after flowering is that the soil is poor in nutrients. Generally, the soil has very low potassium content.

And this is the most important element for the formation of ovaries. Therefore, when the plum tree is three years old, you need to feed the soil with potassium in the fall. A lot of potassium is contained in ash.

Varieties and their proper planting

After planting the seedlings, you should not expect the first fruits to appear immediately. There is a certain deadline, through which the plum trees will begin to bear fruit.

This depends on the genetic characteristics of the variety and the pollinating variety, as well as on the conditions in which the trees grow.

To understand How long will it take for the tree to produce its first fruits?, you need to take into account the distinctive features of the variety, which can be combined into three large groups:

Trees bearing fruit on annual growth. This group includes varieties of Canadian, Chinese, Ussuri and American plums. These varieties produce powerful shoots on which a large number of new buds are born. For these varieties, continuous shoot growth must be ensured. The stronger the shoots grow, the faster the tree will bear fruit.

Trees bearing fruit on perennial branches. This type includes varieties that originated in Western Europe and the south. These varieties are: Peach, Anna Shpet, Hungarian Home. It is important for these varieties that their crown is constantly thinned.

With intermediate fruiting type. The principle here is as follows: on annual growth and on perennial branches. This type includes varieties: Volzhskaya Krasavitsa, Pamyat Timiryazev, Mirnaya and others. When caring, it is important to thin out the crown and maintain shoot growth.

The first fruits appear when the shoots reach a certain number internodes on the buds. To make these processes go faster, you can independently shape the crown by cutting out skeletal branches.

Good feeding and timely soil moisture are required.

What year does a plum tree begin to bear fruit?

If you grow seedlings according to the rules, then the plum will begin to bear fruit 4-5 years after planting. Therefore, when choosing seedlings, be sure to find out what variety they are: self-fertile or self-sterile. The seedlings are planted on illuminated plots of land so that several varieties of plums can coexist side by side. If you create favorable conditions for plum growth and maintain them all the time, then the harvest can be harvested every year.

But for some varieties, productive years alternate with lean ones. At all, a plum tree can bear fruit for up to 20 years. After this age, the tree begins to age, dries out very much, and soon simply dies.

What to do?

There are several simple steps that you can take to get a good harvest of plums every year. Here are some of them:

Replanting trees and planting new ones is carried out only in the spring.

About 15 kg of rotted manure or compost, 0.5 kg of superphosphate, a little potassium salt or 1.5 kg of sifted ash are first poured into a dug hole for planting a tree.

In the first three years of life, “vitamins” can be added to the soil near the tree: in the spring, add urea or saltpeter, manure, and ash.

If the weather is dry, plum trees need to be watered a lot.

In order to prevent frost and sun from having too negative an impact on the trees, the trunks need to be whitewashed and tied.

It is better to clean cracks in the bark and rinse them with a 2% solution of ferrous sulfate.

The answer to these simple steps will be stable annual plum harvest.

Why do the leaves dry out and the fruits of a plum tree fall, and how to help the tree:

- a fairly large plant, a tree that bursts with health and strength! In fact, things are somewhat different than they might seem at first glance, and the plum is a capricious plant, which many gardeners fail to bear fruit throughout the entire growing period!

The fact is that this crop reacts sharply to the composition of the soil where it grows, to the climate characteristics of a particular zone, as well as to how the summer resident correctly forms the crown of its bush and what fertilizers he applies to its root system. That is why you can see flowering, but never wait for the fruits, or rather their ripening. The tree will form ovaries, the fruits will grow to a certain size and will then be dropped to the ground.

Well, the most important thing is that it often happens. Unscrupulous sellers deliberately sell incorrectly rooted plum seedlings, which will initially not bear fruit!

What year does the plum bear fruit?

Let’s assume that we manage to purchase high-quality planting material plums. The planting site, as well as the soil itself, have all the characteristics for the normal growth of this crop. The tree is properly cared for and watered during the entire growth stage. When will the plum tree begin to bear fruit in this case?

When initially comfortable conditions growth, it can be noted that the plum begins to bear fruit already in the third, or even the second year. The number of fruits will be small, but gradually every year it will increase. However, this does not guarantee that all plum fruits will ripen! It turns out that, having finally waited for fruiting, you should under no circumstances relax, because it is during this period that the tree needs, more than ever, proper care!

Why doesn't a plum bear fruit for a long time?

Some summer residents manage to see the first harvest of “their” plum only in the fourth or fifth year, why? The plant’s root system takes a long time to form, and until it is sufficiently strong, the tree will shed almost unformed fruits. The only thing that can help in this case is the subcortex of the plum and the correct formation of the crown.

It happens that a tree becomes infected with some kind of infectious disease, only after curing it can the first fruits be seen. Along with this, the plant is attacked by pests. You may also come across a plant variety that is unsuitable for growing specifically in your climate zone, which also happens quite often!

Greetings, dear readers!

One of my readers is interested in the question of why the plum tree does not bear fruit in her garden. In this article I will talk about the reasons for the possible lack of fruiting.

In plums, which are a representative stone fruits fruit plants, there is no periodic fruiting, as, for example, in apple trees. But, despite this feature, they do not always produce an annual harvest.

The main reason for this is the lack of the required number of pollinating varieties in the garden. Plum is a cross-pollinated crop; it needs its flowering periods to coincide with the flowering of its pollinating variety. This is the only way for mutual cross-pollination to occur among all plums growing in the garden. This is why it is so important to carefully select varieties and plant pollinators in advance.

There are also self-fertile plum varieties (Italian Hungarian, Iskra, Pamyat Timiryazev), they are quite successfully pollinated by their own pollen, but they will give a richer harvest if other pollinating varieties grow nearby.

To top off what has been said, it should be added that all plums, according to the timing of the onset of the fruiting period, are conventionally distinguished into four groups:

1. early fruiting varieties, for example, Novinka, Iskra, being planted at the age of two, give their first harvest in the second year;

2. after three to four years, Skorospelka red, Memory of Timiryazev, Record begin to bear fruit;

3. varieties that begin bearing fruit 5–6 years after planting, these include Hungarian Pulkovskaya, Hungarian Moscow, Persikovaya, Anna Shpet;

4. There are varieties of late fruiting - Ochakovskaya yellow, Prune Kozlovsky, Nikolskaya white, these plums give the first harvest 7-8 years after planting.

Accurate knowledge of the biological characteristics of a particular variety will relieve the gardener of the question of why and will tell the timing of fruiting.

See you!

Plum: planting and care

General information about plums

Plum (Prunus), a genus of deciduous trees and shrubs of the rose family. There are more than 10 species distributed in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere.

The main plum varieties growing in central Russia come from several botanical species: domestic plum, sloe, damson plum, Ussuri plum and Chinese-American plum hybrids.

Possessing sufficient resistance to a complex of unfavorable factors, drainage, however, in severe winters, or in the presence of return frosts that occur during the flowering period, can suffer and lose part of the crop. Perhaps this is why there are still no industrial plum orchards in Russia, and the overwhelming number of plantings are concentrated in the hands of amateur gardeners. In the private sector, according to experts, more than 80% of the harvest of this crop is produced.

Planting plum

Soil for plums and choice of planting site

If you decide to plant a plum on your garden plot, then keep in mind that it will grow well and produce stable annual yields only on water- and breathable soils with high fertility.

Suitable soil types for plums are soddy-podzolic, loamy, drained and limed to neutralize acid, and peat bogs.

In cooler regions, you should choose fairly well-warmed areas for planting plums, where the snow begins to melt faster. If you decide to plant a plum on a slope, then it must be oriented south or southwest, but not north.

The soil in the area where you plan to plant a plum must be leveled; microdepressions and microdepressions are unacceptable, because they often accumulate melt and rain moisture, as well as cold air, which can negatively affect the plants. Do not use overly compacted substrates for planting; in such areas the soil often does not have sufficient air exchange; you should also not use gravel or rocky soils.

Plant plums in the spring and buy seedlings in the fall

You should start planting plums in the spring, but it is better to buy seedlings in the autumn. During this period, the choice of seedlings is significantly higher, it is easier to find the variety you like, and the quality of planting material is usually better.

Having purchased a seedling, you can bury it in the garden plot before planting. To do this, choose a place sheltered from cold winds where a lot of snow accumulates, dig an elongated hole, like a trench, and place the seedlings in it so that the root system and part of the trunk are in the soil. After this, the seedling must be sprinkled with soil, watered and covered with burlap or dry leaves, and covered with snow if there is a little accumulated snow.

Around mid-April, as soon as the snow melts and the weather is warm enough, the seedlings can be removed from the trench and planted on the site. Usually, plums are planted, depending on the region, from the second ten days of April to mid-May, but it all depends on the onset of a warm period and the readiness of the soil at the moment.

Planting plums in the spring is also favorable because the soil during this period is rich in moisture, and this, combined with above-zero temperatures, will allow the seedlings to quickly settle in a new place and acquire additional roots.

Plum planting scheme

So, having selected a site, you should decide on a planting scheme. If you are planting several plum seedlings, then you need to retreat about three meters from each other, because the plum has a wide crown.

It is necessary to retreat the same distance from other plants on the site so that the plum does not shade them.

Preparing the soil for plums

Having marked the area, we begin to prepare the soil; it is better to do this in advance, about a week before planting.

The soil on the site should be dug deep with a shovel full, leveled, and then the holes necessary for planting seedlings in them should be dug. The size of the planting holes is usually slightly larger than the volume of the root system of the seedling. The roots should be freely located in the hole, without creases or bends.

When digging a hole, set the top layer of soil, which is always more fertile, aside; it will then need to be placed in the base in order to provide additional nutrition to the roots.

The seedling is placed on this nutritious soil, carefully straightening the roots, after which it is sprinkled with earth, periodically shaking the plant, holding it by the base of the trunk. This is necessary to get rid of voids between the roots.

Immediately after planting, the soil is compacted and watered, using about a bucket of water for each seedling, and then the soil is mulched with humus in a layer of a couple of centimeters in order to retain moisture in the soil.

Caring for seedlings. What and how to feed plums

IN further care Caring for seedlings is not complicated and consists of watering during dry periods, loosening the soil in the tree trunk and weed control.

During the formation of the ovary, you can feed the plum with organic fertilizers. If the soils of your site are poor and contain insufficient amounts of basic elements, then they must be added.

The drain itself will tell you about the lack of elements; you should take a closer look at the plants. For example, a lack of potassium in the soil leads to a change in the color of the foliage; the foliage becomes discolored and turns gray.

If there is not enough nitrogen in the soil, the edges of the leaves turn yellow. The edges of plum leaves turn yellow also because there is not enough moisture in the soil; the plant simply cannot absorb elements from the soil, even if they are there in sufficient quantities.

Lack of moisture can also lead to plants shedding part of the ovaries, which threatens to reduce yields and deteriorate the quality of fruits.

However, there is no need to rush into fertilizing plums. You should start applying complex fertilizers to plum trees from about the third year of the seedling’s life in a new place.

Per square meter of tree trunk circle, usually add 5-6 kg of manure, leaf humus or compost, as well as microelements in the amount of 30-35 g of superphosphate and 12-15 g of ammonium nitrate.

As soon as the plants begin to bear fruit, the dose of fertilizer can be approximately doubled. When applying fertilizers, try to focus on nitrogen in the spring, and phosphorus and potassium in the fall. In the fall, nitrogen fertilizers cannot be applied, because they stimulate active growth shoots, and this can lead to their freezing in the winter, because they simply do not have time to ripen.

During the period of mass flowering, especially if it is strong, it will be successful to feed the plants with liquid fertilizer, which is made by mixing ammonium nitrate(7-10 g), super phosphate (15-20 g), potassium salt (5-7 g) and dissolving it all in a bucket of water. This volume is usually consumed per square meter of tree trunk. Additional fertilizing can be carried out during the season, often using an infusion of mullein or bird droppings.

By the way, applying fertilizers cannot be called a simple agricultural practice; it is important stage in caring for plants and it has its own subtleties that you definitely need to know. In addition to what we have already mentioned, it is worth remembering that in cool years, with plenty of rain, you should refrain from using large doses of nitrogen fertilizers, but the amount of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, on the contrary, can be increased.

What to do with plum root shoots?

In addition to applying fertilizers, in the case of plums, it is very important to monitor the root shoots; they are quite often formed in large quantities and on nutritious soil, and with sufficient moisture they grow very intensively.

Root shoots are formed in plums from adventitious buds, which are located on the roots of the plant. The root shoots, however, are not always subject to complete destruction; if, for example, your seedling was obtained by rooting green cuttings or layering, then the root shoots will have all the characteristics cultivated plant, and having carefully dug it up and separated it from its mother roots, it can be planted in a new place.

When does a plum tree begin to bear fruit?

The plum tree will definitely respond to good self-care with excellent harvests; by the way, you won’t have to wait long for the first harvest, even if it’s small; approximately two to three years after planting the seedling, the tree will produce several dozen fruits, the number of which will increase from year to year.

By the way, the plum forms fruits on last year’s growths and on short overgrowing shoots, so you need to be careful when carrying out sanitary pruning.

Sanitary pruning of plums in spring

Sanitary pruning of plums should be carried out annually, starting from about the fifth year of the plant’s life. Plums are pruned in early spring, usually a month before buds open.

At this time, remove all dry shoots, frozen shoots, if any, too thin and those that grow deep into the crown, thickening it.

Good and timely pruning will allow the plants to produce good yields; the fruits on a sufficiently illuminated crown will ripen together, so that they can be collected in one or two steps and used for food both fresh and processed.

What else needs to be considered

In wet years, cracking of plum fruits sometimes occurs. In this form they are not stored at all, and their taste is worse. To prevent fruits from cracking, in wet years with a lot of rainfall, the fruits should be harvested unripe.

There is no need to be afraid of such harvesting; the fruits ripen very well, acquiring the appropriate taste and color, being placed in shallow boxes or flat baskets. It usually takes 7-8 days from the laying of fruits that begin to ripen to their complete ripening.

Ripe fruits of good quality and ripened plum fruits in the usual household refrigerator They are usually stored for 14-16 days.

N. Khromov, Ph.D. biol. sciences

Why do plums fall off when they are still green? What to do - Onwomen.ru

Abundant plum blossoms allow gardeners to confidently count on a good harvest in August-September. Imagine their surprise when in June fruits that are not yet ripe, sometimes even green, begin to fall. Day after day, the entire plum tree is cleared of fruit, and the gardener does not have to count on a positive outcome of events. He can only pick plums from the ground. Why did such an unnatural drop in plum trees occur? There can be many reasons, let’s look at the main ones.

Plum carrion: causes and their elimination

1. Feeding

Often the cause of shedding of siwa is a lack of nutrients in the soil. Fruit trees should be fed, and this should be done according to a certain pattern. In the first half of summer, experienced gardeners recommend feeding plums with mullein or bird droppings. This fertilizer will help the tree replenish its supply of nutrients. In addition, the gardener should be careful and regularly inspect the fruit trees themselves. For example, a lack of potassium in the soil can cause fruits that are too large to fall off prematurely. A lack of nitrogen in the soil will be noticeable by the slow growth of the tree itself, as well as by the yellowing and shredding of leaves, the formation of small ovaries and their early fall.

The general conclusion from the above is: the more effective the fertilizing, the more fruits will remain on the branches and the richer the plum harvest will be.

2. Watering

A plum can react negatively to unfavorable conditions and begin to shed unripe fruits due to improper watering regimes. Bright representative The Rosaceae family is very demanding regarding the amount of soil moisture. The reason for this feature of the fruit tree is the location of the root system. The roots of the plum are located close to the surface of the earth, therefore, unlike other fruit trees, it should be watered more abundantly and more often. Lack of moisture in the soil leads to the fact that the fruits begin to become smaller and then crumble.

The optimal watering regime for plums: at least three to five times during spring and summer (that is, for the entire season). When drawing up the best schedule specifically for your fruit trees, it is worth taking into account such features as: the climate of a particular region, the amount of precipitation, the depth of groundwater, the number of other trees growing in close proximity to the plum tree, which also claim moisture from the soil. Watering the fruit tree is carried out to a depth of forty to sixty centimeters.

3. Pests

Insects that harm both the tree itself and the fruits are one of the main reasons why plum trees fall early.

Plum moth is a pest of fruit trees that lays eggs in plum fruits in the spring. The caterpillars feed on the ovaries, which is why premature fruit fall can be observed in early summer. You can fight the codling moth using pheromone traps. Experienced gardeners recommend hanging them on trees no later than May - early June. The attractant contained inside the traps affects the male population of moths. Reducing the number of males makes fertilization impossible, thereby reducing the moth population.

Spraying fruit trees with chemicals such as Karbofos, Fitoverm, and Lepidocid will help you get rid of the moth reliably.

Considerable damage can be caused to plums pachypede. Insect butterflies begin to fly around the plum tree about a week after it blooms. Females lay eggs in the very bone of the fruit, after which the larvae begin to actively feed on such tasty food. Outwardly, this does not affect the fruit in any way; it continues to take on its natural color. However, at the beginning of June, massive fruit fall begins.

Shedding is due to the fact that the pest caterpillar will completely eat the kernel. The pulp remains intact, so many gardeners do not immediately understand why such unnatural fruit drop occurred. You can fight the fatty leg with the help of insecticides such as “Confidor”, “Dantop” and other similar drugs. Treatment of affected fruit trees is carried out immediately after the plum blossoms have ended and repeated after about two weeks. You can also reduce the population of the fatty leg by collecting carrion and destroying it.

Plum sawfly is another pest that can cause significant harm fruit plantings. Insect larvae penetrate the ovaries and feed on the pulp and the still immature bone. It is because of them that the still greenish plums fall off. You can fight the sawfly by spraying with insecticides (you can use the same ones as for other pests) during the phenophase of the rose bud. An excellent preventive measure would be autumn plowing between the rows.

Eliminating the causes of physiological plum decline will allow you to get a good fruit harvest!

Why do people in China love the plum tree and its fruits, what do they mean to them? | BIMICON

1 In China, such a strange type of business rules as a foreigner in an office, rented. Let me explain. The Chinese believe that if a Chinese company, for example, employs a white foreigner who does not speak Chinese, then this gives credibility to the company, attracts clients and creates the appearance that this company is rich and successful.

So they thought of this practice - renting a white-skinned guy or girl for a week, or even a month, to a company. This white man can only hang out in the office, not work at all, and doesn't know a word of Chinese. His only responsibility is the dress code - a business suit with a tie. This white guy or gal's job is to pose as a company employee or business partner. This is not even a seasonal job, but a seasonal hangout around the office. Basically, actors, models and teachers are hired for such seasonal “work”. They go to business meetings in respectable suits, shake hands with business partners, and the employing company rewards them...

00More details2

Plum is a fruit plant from the extensive Rose family (Rosaceae). Many fruit and berry crops well known to children and adults belong to the same systematic group: apple, cherry, sweet cherry, apricot, peach, strawberry, raspberry. Let's look at the question that most often sounds like this: “Is a plum a berry or a fruit?” It is not surprising that many people are confused about the concepts.

Is plum a berry or a fruit?

Among fruit trees, plums occupy a place of honor, because since ancient times people have grown them for harvest. Sweet dishes, sauces and alcoholic drinks are prepared from the fruits of plums, sloe, cherry plum. Plum is a tree or shrub with a height of 1 to 6 m. All groups of varieties and wild species are high-yielding plants.

The fruit - a single-stone drupe - is formed in place of the flower after fertilization. Before ripening, the pericarp remains hard for some time, colored green color. As nutrients accumulate, the fruit becomes juicier, and...

003 Chinese plum “Red Ball” - bright colorful greetings from China in your garden

Unlike the apple and pear trees, which have dominated our gardens for many centuries, the plum, in the form in which we are accustomed to seeing it, does not have wild forms.

And it appeared in Western Asia as a result of spontaneous crossing of blackthorn and cherry plum.

Historically, its path to Rus' followed through the Greek and Roman borders in order to become a domestic plum in Russian gardens.

Plum “Red Ball”: variety description and photo

Description of the plum variety "Red Ball". The variety is very popular among gardeners in the Moscow region as a table variety (in terms of taste) and a universal variety (if possible for processing). Another significant advantage was its small height, in contrast to the domestic plum, which grows up to 15 meters in height, the “Chinese” plum is very convenient for picking due to its dimensions...

Useful properties of plum

On average, a garden plum fruit contains 87.0 g% water, 0.8 g% protein, 9.9 g% carbohydrates, 0.5 g% dietary fiber, 1.3 g% free organic acids (calorie content - 43 kcal per 100 g product); 214 mg% potassium, 18 mg% sodium, 28 mg% calcium, 17 mg% magnesium, 27 mg% phosphorus, 0.09 mg% copper, 1.1 mg% manganese, 1.0 mg% zinc, 0.04 each mg% chromium and iodine, 0.02 mg% fluorine; 0.10 mg% provitamin A, from 0.04 to 0.06 mg% vitamins B and B2, 0.60 mg% vitamin PP, 10 mg% vitamin C, 0.08 mg% vitamin B6, 0.063 mg% vitamin E. Approximately 25% of easily digestible carbohydrates in plums are fructose, 65% are sucrose, and the rest are glucose, which, unfortunately, limits the inclusion of plums in the diets of patients with diabetes. Among the free organic acids of plums, benzoic acid predominates, which contributes more than others to reducing the reserve alkalinity of the blood. Therefore, with long-term inflammatory processes, complicated by acidosis of the internal environment of the body, a lot of plums in...

Let's try to understand why some plants bear fruit well in single plantings, while others need certain neighbors for pollination.

Stone fruits are cross-crops, pollinated by insects (bees, bumblebees, wasps). Varieties of most crops are conventionally divided into three groups: self-fertile, partially self-fertile and self-sterile. It is customary to classify as self-fertile varieties that set when pollinated by their own pollen from 20 to 40% of the fruits, as partially self-fertile - from 10 to 20%, and as self-sterile - about 5% of the fruits.

The varieties of cherries and cherry plums grown today, as well as a significant part of the varieties of cherries and plums, are self-sterile (self-sterile). This means that they do not set fruit from pollination by their own pollen. They are cross-pollinated plants and bear fruit well in the presence of pollinators.

It has also been noticed that even self-fertile varieties, for example Molodezhnaya cherry, when pollinated by other varieties, produce higher yields and larger fruits....

Why doesn't the plum tree bear fruit? The prune tree is ripening, but where are the plums?

I bought these bare root trees and planted them five years ago. The plum trees are tall now. I've had them professionally trimmed for the last two years. They produced their first flowers in the spring of 2013, but a late frost killed them. In 2014 they produced plums, but most of the fruits fell before they ripened.

I sprayed the trees for pests. What did I do wrong? Why don't my plums yield? How to ensure the ripening and fruiting of plums next year?

Prunes produce small, tart fruits - they differ from other types of plums in that their fruit keeps well. Varieties of prune plums include the Shropshire, Merryweather, Blue, Purple and French varieties. A mature tree produces a high yield of plums if the plum tree is healthy.

The problem when a plum tree does not bear fruit may have the following...

00More details8

It would seem that it would be easier than ever to grow a plum. But only a very self-confident and not very knowledgeable person can think this way. This culture has its own specifics and subtleties. These will be discussed in the selection of materials.

Features of growth and fruiting

According to the nature of fruiting, varieties and types of plums are conventionally divided into three groups:

Fruiting mainly on annual growth; on perennial overgrowing branches; both on annual shoots and on overgrowing branches.

Plum

In the first group of plums, strong annual growths are dominated by group buds - two or three in one node (usually the middle bud is leafy, and the lateral ones are flowering). Group buds are concentrated in the middle part of the shoot. Below are single flower buds. The apical bud and the few buds closest to it are single leaf buds. On next year On the annual shoot, bouquet branches and spurs develop from the lower leaf buds. Above them, stronger ones develop...

00 Symbols of China

Nature spirits

People revered spirits that personified the forces of nature: the spirit of the earth, the spirit of the sun, the spirit of the moon, the spirit of trees, the spirit of mountains, the spirit of the seas, etc. These spirits, according to the ancients, ruled over nature and controlled the forces of the elements. Various natural phenomena were associated with the action of spirits or some mysterious forces. The northern lights were explained by the fact that living on Far North Where the sun does not look, the dragon Zhu-long holds a candle in his mouth and illuminates the dark polar countries from time to time. The rainbow was perceived as a large snake bent over the ground in an arc. The wind was generated by Sheng-long - the sacred dragon. The gusty wind was created by the invisible wings of the mythical bird da-feng (great phoenix). The howling of the wind in inclement weather was mistaken for the cry of the homeless souls of those warriors who fell on the battlefield and were not buried by their relatives; hurricanes and tornadoes are the flight or fight of dragons; thunderstorm - a fight between white and black...

00 Topic of the week - plum, plum diet 10/05/10

Plum does not praise itself, but the path to it is always trodden

There's a big plum harvest this year, meaning it's time to talk about the plant and its fruits, which for the British is an integral part of national cuisine, and for us Russians - the favorite gift of Mother Autumn. Queen Elizabeth II of England starts each day by eating a couple of plums before breakfast. The press even discovered their variety - the typically English sour Brompcon, collected in the gardens of Her Majesty's estate at Holyrood House. Doctors agree with the choice of the royal person: in their opinion, plums promote normal digestion, relieve cardiac tension and strengthen nervous system due to the fact that these fruits contain a lot of salts and vitamins. But that's not all, plum fruits contain a lot of useful and tasty things!

The common plum is native to Asia and has been cultivated since prehistoric times; currently known only in culture. To North America...

“If there is no garden with an old tree near the house, where, I don’t understand, will the quiet joys of life come to you?” - wrote an ancient Chinese gardener named Chen Gao-tzu. His love for trees and flowers, which found beautiful expression in his essays and poems, brought the wise Chinese the fame of “The Hermit Who Dwells Among the Flowers.”

Some Chinese philosophers equate the role of trees in a garden with the role of clothing for men and women. It can highlight some parts of the body, hide others and completely change the appearance of the shapes underneath. And when trees and flowers are combined harmoniously, they make a “garment” for the garden - the same one that people could wear.

According to Feng Shui tradition, trees in general are one of the best examples the transformative power of nature, and we must always remember the magic emanating from them. People in the West have become imbued with an understanding of the need to establish connections with other people, but ancient art teaches that an equally important place in our...

0012 Home / Dream book / ...Plums on a tree according to the dream book

To understand why you dream of plums on a tree, it is enough to know that these fruits in a dream symbolize well-being, imaginary desires, and fleeting joys. In addition, the dream book advises paying attention to external characteristics and the degree of ripeness of the dreamed fruits.

Miller's Dream Book about the fulfillment of desires

Seeing a lot of unripe plums on a tree foreshadows Miller's anxiety and empty worries. Despite everything, the dreamer and those associated with him will be spared deprivation. If you dreamed that you were picking ripe berries, picking them straight from the bush, it promises fulfillment of desires in reality. However, once fulfilled, your dreams will disappoint you with their superficiality and unfoundedness. Try to take planning and setting tasks seriously so that you don’t regret wasted time in the future.

Plum tree with fruits - for better or for worse?

Interpreting what dreams of plums on a tree mean...

Not every gardener knows how many years a plum bears fruit, because this crop is not as popular as an apple or pear tree. It should be noted that plum seedlings must be planted in well-lit areas, and there should be several species of this plant in the garden, since most varieties of plums are considered self-sterile.

If favorable conditions are created, when plums are planted in well-aerated soil rich in nutrients, the first harvest of fruit can be harvested after 3-4 years, or later for some varieties. Gardeners note that the fruits of this crop ripen unevenly, so they need to be collected as they ripen. Plums can bear fruit in different ways, some give a good harvest every year, while in other varieties intensive fruit formation alternates with crop failures. In general, a plum can bear fruit for 20 years, after which the tree becomes old, dries out, and after a while dies.

How to increase plum yield

Proper care is considered the basis for obtaining good yields from the plant in question. For planting choose sunny place, which is protected from the influence of northern winds. So that the plant takes root well in new soil It is necessary to systematically water the seedling. Abundant harvests will be facilitated by good pollination of inflorescences, which can be achieved by planting several varieties of plums in the garden.

Some trees grow quickly, but do not produce a good harvest, although they are quite old. The reason for this phenomenon may be the oversaturation of the soil with useful substances. In this case, it is necessary to remove some root shoots. If there is a lack of microelements, wood ash is added to the soil, and rusty nails are also buried, because the formation of the ovary occurs with the participation of iron. Sometimes a nail driven into the tree at the level of the first branches helps to force a plum to bear fruit. Note that this operation is carried out during the flowering period. It can take 25 years to produce good plum harvests, but to do this, you need to constantly thin out the crown to combat diseases and pests.

There can be many reasons why a plum tree does not bear fruit. There are six most likely reasons. It is they who most often do not allow achieving regular fruiting of stone fruit crops.

Physiological carrion
Self-sterility of the variety.
Development of infectious diseases.
Presence of insect pests.
Climatic features.
Landing conditions.

But first things first.

So, here are six reasons why a plum tree may not bear fruit.

Physiological carrion is a phenomenon that affects poor fruiting of plums. Typically, the picture of this phenomenon looks like this. The trees begin to bloom together. The ovaries are formed in the same way. But due to the fact that the tree is not able to provide nutrition for all the fruits formed, some of them fall off. This is usually due to an underdeveloped root system. There are no measures to prevent or combat this phenomenon. Although some gardeners correct formation crowns still achieve a reduction in dropped fruits.

The self-sterility of the variety is another reason why plums do not bear fruit. Incorrect selection and purchase of seedlings of this crop can result in long waits for fruit. Unlike apricots and peaches, most varieties of plums are self-sterile varieties. For the ovary to appear, they need neighbors, pollinators of a different variety. Only cross-pollination by insects will promote fruit production. But given this state of affairs, it is worth noting that cross-pollination may not always be effective. For example, in rainy weather or bad weather, insects are not active. And therefore the plants may not be pollinated. In this case, in order for the plum to bear fruit well, it is worth selecting self-pollinating varieties. Self-fertile varieties include:

Niagara;
Hungarian Italian;
Stanley;
Anna Shpet;
Monarch;
Herman.

The development of infectious diseases of plums can also be the reason for its failure to bear fruit. The most common diseases include the following:

Clusterosporiosis is a pathogenic fungus that affects the tissue of young leaves. Small reddish spots gradually die off. Holes remain on the sheet. Branches, buds, and fruits are also affected.
Gray fruit rot. The disease appears on the fruit as a small gray spot. The pulp of the fruit rots, and ash-gray spots of fungal sporulation appear. The mycelium of the fungus overwinters on infected parts of the plant.

Preventive measures for infectious diseases include burning leaves, collecting and destroying mummified fruits, and regular treatment with chemicals, which you can read about.

Another reason for the lack of fruit in plums can be insect pests. The plum moth and plum codling moth larvae and caterpillars eat the fruits and seeds of the fruit. Damaged fruits fall off. Effective against pests chemical methods protection, the use of catch belts, digging the soil and loosening. Microbial preparations act on the plum moth. Insecticides are used against thicklegs.

Climate and weather conditions can affect plum fruiting. Plum buds may freeze after a thaw. Wind and sudden temperature fluctuations during the day can cause pollen sterilization. In northern latitudes, the plum may lack heat, and in the south there may be a lack of moisture. Plum trees do not tolerate prolonged drought or flooding with rainwater. The variety must be selected in such a way that the fruits have time to ripen in local conditions. It is better to use zoned varieties for planting.

Consideration of planting conditions will also help to understand why plums are not able to bear fruit. Plum is demanding on the soil. Acidic soils inhibit plant growth. To neutralize the acidity of the soil, add wood ash or use liming - add slaked lime. It is a mistake to plant plums in the shade or near big tree. Plum loves the sun; fruiting is impaired if there is a lack of light. The roots of large trees of other species secrete phytoncides that inhibit the growth of plums.

And so, to summarize, we can conclude the following: properly prepared soil and a place for planting promote fruiting of plums. You should choose a zoned plum variety adapted to the local climate. It is necessary to take into account the method of pollination of plums, promptly destroy insect pests and foci of infectious diseases.

If a previously productive plum tree suddenly stops bearing fruit, any gardener will be upset. It is necessary to quickly determine the cause of the problem and, if possible, eliminate it. There are several main situations that result in the interruption of fruiting of this fruit.

What year should I give birth?

In general, if you care for a plum tree according to the rules, it will begin to bear fruit about 5 years after planting. This period depends on the innate characteristics of the variety itself, its pollinators and living conditions. There is a rule that the first fruits can be expected when the shoots have accumulated a specific number of internodes on the buds. The process of their appearance can be accelerated by forming a bush.

In addition, in order to understand how to care for a tree so that it begins to bear fruit quickly, you need to know which group it belongs to. There are plums that bear fruit on annual growth (it is important to maintain the growth of shoots), on perennial overgrowing branches (you will have to constantly thin out the crown) and intermediate ones (you will have to do both).

Even at the stage of purchasing seedlings, you should find out whether they will be self-sterile or self-fertile. In the first case, the plant can reproduce only with the help of bees that carry pollen from related plants. The plants must be of a different variety, but ripen at the same time as the one that requires pollination. In the second, their own pollen is used, and pollination occurs independently. In the case of plums, it is recommended to give preference to self-fertile varieties.

In addition, it is important to understand whether the selected seedlings will be compatible with each other, as well as with the existing soil and the existing climate in the area where the fruit is to be grown. The plum should be planted in well-lit beds in such a way that different varieties(if available) felt comfortable with each other. If you keep the plum in proper conditions, then the harvest can be expected every year.

Finally, keep in mind that this plant can bear fruit for 20 years, after which it will die quite quickly. But some varieties still experience lean years, and this is absolutely normal.

Reasons for the absence of fruits

There are eight main reasons why a plum tree does not bear fruit.

Firstly, the culprit may be such a nuisance as physiological carrion. Its symptoms are as follows: the tree blooms, ovaries appear, fruits form, but they do not have time to reach a ripe state. The cream just falls to the ground. Such a defective condition can arise for several reasons: either the plum does not receive enough nutrients, or the roots cannot cope due to weakness, or there is an excessive/insufficient amount of moisture, or improper care.

Secondly, initially a mistake could have been made when choosing a plum variety, and a self-sterile one was purchased (and this is most varieties of plums). Such varieties need pollinators, and if they are not planted, then there will be no fruit to wait for.

In addition, if the plant is planted in a rainy region, the insects responsible for pollination may not cope with the task. In this case, it is better to select self-fertile varieties.

Thirdly, a fairly common reason is tree diseases. Diseases such as fruit rot and clasterosporiasis deprive the plum of the ability to form a large number of fruit. The fungus Clusterosporiasis destroys the leaves, forming holes in them. Then the infection spreads to the branches, trunk and the cream itself. Dry and damaged shoots must be trimmed, and the plant must be treated three times with special solutions.

In addition, plums can be affected by moniliosis. The plant becomes covered in black soot and looks as if it has been burned. As preventive measures Before the flowers begin to appear, as well as immediately after, the cream will need to be processed.

Gray rot affects the fruits themselves. It should be remembered that the disease easily tolerates the cold season and does not disappear due to the cold. To prevent trouble, the crown and soil will need to be sprayed with a special composition, and the affected fruits with shoots will need to be removed and burned.

Fourthly, common pests may be to blame. For example, the codling moth caterpillar eats cream and even seeds: as a result, the fruits fall to the ground and begin to rot. And such a pest as the flower beetle feeds on the buds of flowers and does not allow the ovaries to form.

Fifthly, bad weather is a fairly common problem. In May, frosts very often occur, and the buds freeze, and the young shoots are weakened - and the yield drops again. But also a sudden drop in temperature and cold gusts of wind lead to sterilization of pollen, without which the appearance of fruits is impossible. Problems also occur when there are droughts or heavy rains.

During flowering, you should pay attention to the pistil - if it freezes in winter, the color will change to black from green. As a result, the fruits will not be able to set.

Sixthly, the wrong soil can create many problems. If the soil has increased acidity, then you will have to bring it to a state of “neutrality” - add additives in the form of ash or slaked lime, chalk, crushed egg shells or limestone flour. Soil acidity, by the way, can be easily determined by appearance– if there is a lot of moss and “acid-loving” plants on the surface, but no clover, and a white layer can be seen on the surface, then these indicators are clearly increased.

It is important to know that plums can oxidize the soil in much larger quantities than other trees and shrubs. Therefore, annual alkalization of the soil is necessary.

Seventh, it can lead to adverse consequences incorrect landing seedling, in which the root is damaged. If the seedling is buried so deeply into the soil that its root collar is not even visible, this will be a big mistake. This part of the plant must be visible.

Eighth, the plum may not have enough lighting. This situation may arise if the tree is planted near a fence, the wall of a building, or next to higher “neighbors.”

Finally, the lack of harvest in a plum tree may be the result of some mechanical damage, as well as incorrect pruning. Plum trees, as a rule, have a very large crown, so you need to work on its formation. Otherwise, the density of the branches will prevent the redirection of resources to flowers and fruits.

What do we have to do?

In general, a set of measures is always important: fertilizing, watering, premature protection from pests and diseases. It is possible to combat physiological decline only by carrying out preventive measures. Throughout the season, it is important to consistently fertilize the plant: in the spring, urea and potassium sulfate are used, and in the summer, when the tree has already bloomed, nitrophoska. All of the above ingredients are diluted in water. At the moment when the fruits have already begun to form, you can feed the soil with chicken droppings diluted in water. In the fall, it is recommended to work on the roots, again using potassium sulfate, as well as phosphate fertilizers.

To prevent disease, it is also important to spray regularly with a suitable solution, such as a fungicide. During the appearance of buds, a month before harvesting the fruits and after leaf fall, spraying is carried out using Bordeaux solution of varying percentages.

In addition, do not forget about the importance of collecting and destroying fallen leaves and mummified fruits.

Various activities can force pests to leave the beds. These include active loosening of the soil near the trunk, installation of traps and treatment with chemicals, for example, Calypso, Aktara and Mospilan. If the plum does not suit existing land, then a hole is dug with sides equal to one meter, which is filled with a fertile nutrient mixture. Sometimes only partial improvement is carried out using peat or sand.

Professional gardeners have now formed several important rules that should be followed. You can replant or plant new ones only in the spring. Before planting, the holes should ideally be fertilized with organic matter. For example, it could be manure or compost, ash. From ready-made preparations, you should choose those that contain potassium salt or superphosphate.

Experts believe that a plum grown from shoots will bear fruit quite successfully. In addition, this method of propagating this fruit is very simple and convenient. In any case, the shoots will have to be removed so as not to limit the yield of the tree, so it is better to put it to good use. Having decided to use this method, you need to choose the best shoot, which is located away from the trunk. It will be convenient to get it, plus it will already have developed roots. The shoot can be dug out either in the spring or in late summer and early autumn. The size should be medium, not exceed 50 centimeters, but not be smaller than this size. Small shoots adapt much better to new conditions.

You need to dig up the shoot and separate it from the main tree very carefully. The shoots are taken out along with a lump of soil and transferred to a separate container. You need to immediately moisten the soil and prevent it from drying out. If immediate planting is possible, then you can simply place the plant in a plastic bag.

It is better to treat the root of the main tree, for example, sprinkle it with wood ash.

The resulting shoots should first be planted in a separate bed with nutritious soil and minimal lighting. For about a month, you need to irrigate the plantings abundantly and maintain the optimal temperature. After about a month, the plum should get used to its new place of “residence” - leaves will begin to appear and growth will continue. At the same time, active feeding starts. Next spring, the stronger plant can be transplanted to permanent place with good lighting. It is carefully dug up and transferred along with a lump of earth. The land must be fertile and fertilized.

For ways to control pests on drains, see the following video.

Plum (Prunus), a genus of deciduous trees and shrubs of the rose family. There are more than 10 species distributed in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere.

The main plum varieties growing in central Russia come from several botanical species: domestic plum, sloe, damson plum, Ussuri plum and Chinese-American plum hybrids.

Planting plum

Soil for plums and choice of planting site

If you decide to plant a plum on your garden plot, then keep in mind that it will grow well and produce stable annual yields only on water- and breathable soils with high fertility.

Suitable soil types for plums are soddy-podzolic, loamy, drained and limed to neutralize acid, and peat bogs.

Plant plums in the spring and buy seedlings in the fall

Plum planting scheme

It is necessary to retreat the same distance from other plants on the site so that the plum does not shade them.

Preparing the soil for plums

Having marked the area, we begin to prepare the soil; it is better to do this in advance, about a week before planting.

When digging a hole, set the top layer of soil, which is always more fertile, aside; it will then need to be placed in the base in order to provide additional nutrition to the roots.

Caring for seedlings. What and how to feed plums

In the future, caring for the seedlings is not complicated and consists of watering during dry periods, loosening the soil in the tree trunk and weed control.

During the formation of the ovary, you can feed the plum with organic fertilizers. If the soils of your site are poor and contain insufficient amounts of basic elements, then they must be added.

Lack of moisture can also lead to plants shedding part of the ovaries, which threatens to reduce yields and deteriorate the quality of fruits.

However, there is no need to rush into fertilizing plums. You should start applying complex fertilizers to plum trees from about the third year of the seedling’s life in a new place.

Per square meter of tree trunk circle, usually add 5-6 kg of manure, leaf humus or compost, as well as microelements in the amount of 30-35 g of superphosphate and 12-15 g of ammonium nitrate.

As soon as the plants begin to bear fruit, the dose of fertilizer can be approximately doubled. When applying fertilizers, try to focus on nitrogen in the spring, and phosphorus and potassium in the fall. In the fall, nitrogen fertilizers cannot be applied, because they stimulate the active growth of shoots, and this can lead to their freezing in the winter, because they simply do not have time to ripen.

During the period of mass flowering, especially if it is strong, it will be successful to feed the plants with liquid fertilizer, which is made by mixing ammonium nitrate (7-10 g), super phosphate (15-20 g), potassium salt (5-7 g) and dissolving everything it's in a bucket of water. This volume is usually consumed per square meter of tree trunk. Additional fertilizing can be carried out during the season, often using an infusion of mullein or bird droppings.

By the way, applying fertilizers cannot be called a simple agricultural practice; this is an important stage in caring for plants and it has its own subtleties that you definitely need to know. In addition to what we have already mentioned, it is worth remembering that in cool years, with plenty of rain, you should refrain from using large doses of nitrogen fertilizers, but the amount of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, on the contrary, can be increased.

What to do with plum root shoots?

Root shoots are formed in plums from adventitious buds, which are located on the roots of the plant. The root shoots, however, are not always subject to complete destruction; if, for example, your seedling was obtained by rooting green cuttings or layerings, then the root shoots will have all the signs of a cultivated plant, and having carefully dug it up and separated it from the mother roots, it can be planted on a new one place.

When does a plum tree begin to bear fruit?

By the way, the plum forms fruits on last year’s growths and on short overgrowing shoots, so you need to be careful when carrying out sanitary pruning.

Sanitary pruning of plums in spring

Sanitary pruning of plums should be carried out annually, starting from about the fifth year of the plant’s life. Pruning of plums in early spring, usually a month before bud break.

At this time, remove all dry shoots, frozen shoots, if any, too thin and those that grow deep into the crown, thickening it.

What else needs to be considered

Ripe fruits of good quality and ripened plum fruits are usually stored in a regular household refrigerator for 14-16 days.

N. Khromov, Ph.D. biol. sciences

Other articles in the section “In the garden or in the vegetable garden”:

Tillage in autumn. Preparing the land for the next season
Autumn work in the garden and garden
Autumn - best time for planting currants
Plant compatibility in the garden or how to plant vegetables correctly
Pests and diseases are the main destroyers of our gardens and vegetable gardens.
Plum: planting and care
Garden decoration - broom
How to draw up a plot plan
Secrets of growing cucumbers. Growing seedlings, care and feeding
Flowers and plants that need to be sown for seedlings in April

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Beneficial properties of prunes

Regular consumption of healthy dried fruit improves digestion, solving the problem of constipation, has a positive effect on the condition of the skin, normalizes metabolism, helps the body recover from illness, increases efficiency, improves heart function, and maintains the normal state of the nervous system.

Despite the fact that prunes are considered a high-calorie product, nutritionists advise not to exclude them from the diet. It quickly relieves hunger, so snacking on prunes is not harmful.

In winter, when the consumption of fresh vegetables and fruits decreases, prunes are a good find, since they allow the body to receive the necessary substances. It contains fructose, glucose, sucrose (up to 17%), many organic acids, pectin, phosphorus, potassium, iron, magnesium, calcium, vitamins C, A, P, group B, etc.

Recent studies have shown that prunes, thanks to vitamin A and beta-carotene, help maintain visual acuity.

Methods for obtaining prunes

Large volumes of plums (for sale) in fruit processing plants are processed in boiling water, then cooled in running water and steam-dried in special drying devices at the required temperature.

In another method, pre-washed fruits are dried on fresh air under the sun's rays.

The artisanal method does not make it possible to get beautiful prunes, as with industrial production, but him useful qualities this does not decrease. It is believed that it stores even more useful substances than in prunes obtained in factory conditions.

Dried fruit comes with or without a seed. The latter is considered less useful and costs less. In a cold, dry place, the product can be stored well for up to one and a half years.

Plum varieties suitable for producing prunes

The statement that any variety of plum can be used for prunes is erroneous.

The “correct” product is obtained from Hungarian plums, which contain more than 17% dry matter. If you take fruits whose quality characteristics are not suitable for producing prunes, the final product will simply be called a dried plum, which is not black in color, but most often brown-brown. Prunes are obtained from special varieties that are distinguished by large, fleshy and dark fruits, with a sugar content of at least 12% and with a small amount of moisture.

The most ideal variety They consider the Hungarian to be Italian.

Hungarian Italian

The homeland of this plum is sunny Italy. The variety has an average height and pleases with the first harvest after 5 years. “Italian” has large fruits that resemble an egg, with a rich dark blue color and dense yellowish-green flesh, with large dots under the skin.

The taste of the fruit is sweet, the smell is weak. Prunes from Hungarian Italian turn out very beautiful.

In Russia, plums are mainly grown on the Black Sea coast (Gelendzhik, Adler).

In more northern regions, its cultivation is not so successful, since the plant is heat-loving and can freeze in winter. However, Italian Hungarian can be found in the gardens of Voronezh, Kursk and nearby regions. But plums are not grown on an industrial scale in these regions.

Hungarian Common (Domestic)

The peculiarity of the variety is the difference in taste, size, and timing of fruit ripening.

It depends on the methods of reproduction. Like many varieties, fruiting of the Domashennaya plum begins at 5 years of age.

The fruit ripens quite late - at the end of summer or in the first ten days of September. Common Hungarian lives a long time and produces good, stable yields. After 25 years, more than 150 kg of plums can be removed from it. High frost resistance allows you to grow fruit tree in regions with low winter temperatures.

Hungarian Azanskaya

The variety has Western European roots. It grows best in mild climates, as it does not have good frost resistance.

The fruiting period begins in the 4th or 5th year of development. By the end of summer, the harvest ripens almost at the same time and does not fall off the branches. Hungarian Azhanskaya does not like prolonged wet weather; its fruits begin to crack, which affects their quality. The variety is high-yielding, consistently producing 55-60 kg of plums after 12 years of growth. The fruits are violet-red with a dense skin and green-yellow flesh.

Hungarian Moscow

This variety of Hungarian plum is found in the Moscow, Ryazan, and Tula regions.

The tree bears fruit 5 or 7 years after planting.

At what age do plums begin to bear fruit?

The fruits have oval shape and red (with a purple tint) color. The pulp is dense and juicy, and the skin has a bitter aftertaste, which does not spoil the overall taste sensation at all.

The harvest ripens in early September at almost the same time. Plums of this variety can be picked not quite ripe, and during the ripening process their taste becomes sweeter.

Hungarian Pulkovskaya (Zimnitsa, Pokrovka)

The plum was bred through “folk” selection and reproduces mainly using young root shoots.

The plant has a spreading crown; fruiting occurs after the 6th year of growth. With good care, Zimnitsa produces high yields at the end of September. Plum fruits are oval, red in color and have dark spots under the skin.

The pulp of the “folk” fruit is sweet and sour, very pleasant to the taste, with a seed that can easily be separated from it. The main growing areas are Novgorod, Leningrad and Pskov regions.

Hungarian Vanheim

The variety is believed to have originated in western Europe.

He loves fertile lands, the undoubted advantages are winter hardiness and drought resistance. Plants develop quickly, after 15 years they produce very high yields (100-120 kg of plums from one tree). Fruit ripening occurs at the same time, starting in the second half of August.

The fruits grow average size, have the shape of an irregular oval, their color is dark blue. The skin of plums is thin and easily separated from the rich green pulp. Most often, Hungarian Vanheim can be seen in gardens Rostov region and Krasnodar region.

Prune supplying countries

Plum trees, including those from whose fruits high-quality prunes are obtained, grow on almost all continents. Dried fruit comes to the international market mainly from Argentina, Chile, the USA and France.

Prunes from Moldova are valued on Russian territory. Suppliers of the product to our country are also countries that were previously part of the USSR: Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan.

The highest quality prunes are produced in the USA (California).

Plum has been known since ancient times and is widespread everywhere. Possessing high nutritional and dietary properties, this crop occupies a leading place among stone fruits. Its fruits contain sugars, organic acids, pectin substances, and microelements.

What year does the plum bear fruit?

Plum has the ability to accumulate riboflavin (B2), which regulates carbohydrate metabolism in the human body.

As a result, it is an excellent product for fresh consumption, as well as a valuable raw material for the canning and fruit processing industries.

From it you can get the largest number of products - juices, compotes, jams, purees, jelly, marmalade, wine and wonderful prunes.

Plum is a fast-bearing breed, it begins to bear fruit in the 4-5th year after planting in a permanent place, and from the age of 6 it gives a normal harvest. If agrotechnical measures are followed, the plum yield can reach up to 70-80 kg per tree.

It bears fruit annually; fluctuations in yield are mainly due to unfavorable weather conditions during flowering or ovary formation.

The average productive life of a plum tree, without special pruning and shaping, is 15-20 years, although trees aged 35-40 years that are in good condition are often found.

When planting plum trees, you need to know some of its features.

All plum varieties are divided into self-fertile and self-sterile. Self-fertile ones are of greatest value. Most varieties are self-sterile, so three or four cross-pollinating varieties should be placed on the plot, and at least two in the amateur garden.

After planting plum trees, pruning is carried out for the first 3-4 years to create a strong skeleton and shape the tree.

At the time of full fruiting, the plum is pruned to increase the strength of the growths, and if they are sharply weakened, a strong rejuvenation is carried out on three to five-year-old wood.

Plum is one of the most winter-hardy fruit trees, but there are winters when its above-ground part freezes or partially freezes. In this case, the damaged parts are removed.

The main pests and diseases of plums are plum moth, black plum sawfly, hole spot (clasterosporiasis) and others.

To protect plantings from common diseases and pests, the same set of measures is used as for all other fruit crops.

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Plum planting time, planting technique, care

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Salty bloom very early, so that it is laid in frost protection, otherwise the fruit becomes irregular.

Plum requires soil. Heavy, acidic, swelling floors are unsuitable. Plum trees do best in a raised, well-lit area with light loamy soil. The groundwater level on the site should not exceed 1.5 m.

Best time to plant in the middle of the waist - in spring, in the south - in autumn. The distance between trees is 2.5-3.5 m.

Seedlings purchased in the fall, in winter they dig in a ditch, put them on the corners and cover the roots of the earth with half of the stamens.

For planting seedlings dig a hole measuring 80 x 40 cm and 50-60 cm deep so that it can freely (fully) stretch the roots. Before disembarking, a stallion is driven in the middle of the cave; the upper part should be slightly lower than the upper side branch (Fig. 11).

The hole is filled with 2/3 of the top layer of soil mixed with fertilizer (15 kg of compost, 300-400 g of superphosphate, 400 g of wood or 40-60 g of potassium chloride). Planting is carried out by two people: one seedling place on the north side of the cube, leveling the roots, the other with fertile soil.

At the entrance The root door should be 3-5 cm above ground level. The young plant is tied to a rope with string or film.

Make a hole around the seedlings and pour out water (1-2 buckets), mulched with peat or humus to retain moisture.

When does plum planting occur?

Plum is very demanding in terms of dietary conditions. In the first year of planting, fertilizers do not help. In the coming years we should increase the level of urea to 20 grams per square meter in the spring. First, they carry trees, increase the amount of fertilizer - 1 m2 of a round body consists of up to 10 kg of manure or compost, 25 g of urea, 60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. Potassium chloride can be replaced with 200 g of ash wood.

The device is used only by spring, phosphorus and potash fertilizers - autumn, manure and compost - autumn and spring. After fertilizing, nettle shells. It is important that you do not damage the roots, so that the digging depth is closer to the coves.

In dry, hot summer trees it should be watered. In particular, a frequent source of nutrition is required when the garden is closed, with the grass being cut 5-6 times a season and left in mulch form. Before fruit ripening, excessive and irregular irrigation should be avoided, which can cause cracks in the fruit.

High yield branches with a lot of fruit are supported because you can break it, they are at risk of disease milky gloss and bacterial cancer.

Support the branch with ropes that attach them to the top of the high pole support that runs close to the trunk ( Rice.

12th place). Time zone: UTC; all branches are attached to wire or thread on sticks

D. Ulyanov

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Home Gardening Plum, proper cultivation

Plum, proper cultivation

Plum fruits have high calorie content , surpassing apples, pears, apricots, peaches, currants, raspberries and strawberries.

100 g of plum fruit contains 6 - 14 g of sugars, 0.5 - 2.5 g of organic acids, 0.9 - 2.0 g of pectins, 0.1 - 0.9 g of tannins and coloring substances, up to 200 g of salts potassium, small amounts of vitamins C, P, B1, etc.

In central Russia, trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 4-6 years. During the period of full fruiting, the yield reaches 15 - 30 kg of wood.

Successful cultivation of plums, conditions

For good growth and fruiting plums, it is important that groundwater is no closer than » g: - 2.0 m from the soil surface. Plants develop better in soils with a reaction close to neutral (pH 5.5 - 6.0).

Optimal planting time in central Russia - early spring, April, before buds open.

Depending on the strength of growth plants are planted at a distance of 3-5 m from each other. For planting, they dig holes 60–80 cm wide and 50–60 cm deep.

Mixed with soil, add 10-15 kg of rotted manure or compost, 1 kg of simple or 0.5 kg of double superphosphate and 0.1 kg of potassium chloride (or up to 1 kg of wood ash) into the planting hole.

Lime and nitrogen fertilizers are not applied during planting to avoid burns to the roots.

When planting, the root collar should be 3 - 5 cm above the soil level. After planting, be sure to water (1 bucket of water), mulch the hole with peat or humus to retain moisture.

Fertilizers for plums

In the first year after planting no fertilizers are applied during the growing season.

In the next three years in the spring they give 20 r/m of urea.

When trees begin to bear fruit, 10 kg of humus or compost, 25 g of urea, 60 g of simple or 30 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium chloride or 200 g of wood ash are applied annually along the periphery of the crown per 1 m2 of soil surface.

During the period of full fruiting doses of organic and mineral fertilizers are increased by one third.

Considering that the plum develops better on soils with a reaction close to neutral (pH 5.5 -6.0), liming must be carried out once every 5 years.

Depending on the acidity of the soil, 400 - 800 g/m of slaked lime are added. On light soils the rate of lime is reduced, on heavy soils it is increased.

Pruning of plum trees is carried out in early spring.

Pruning is carried out in early spring - in March - April. The trees are formed according to a sparsely tiered system (3-3-2 skeletal branches in tiers), leaving 10 - 15 cm between branches in tiers and 40 - 60 cm between tiers.

Leave a standard 25-40 cm high.

In young trees well-developed branches (more than 40 cm) are shortened by 1/4 -1/3 of their length in order to enhance the formation of shoots and the development of fruit formations (spurs). During the fruiting period, the crown is thinned from thickening, dry, incorrectly positioned and rubbing branches.

With weak growth(10 -15 cm) rejuvenating pruning is carried out on a lateral branch of 4-5 years of age.

In grafted trees, in late autumn or early spring, the root shoots are annually removed to the base of the root of the mother plant.

Dates of the first fruiting of plums

How to propagate plums

Plum seeds, shoots, cuttings (root and green), budding and grafting. During seed propagation, the characteristics of the variety are not preserved.

This method is used for growing seed stocks or breeding new varieties.

Own root varieties— Red quick-ripening, Moscow Hungarian, Tula black and others are easy to propagate by shoots.

It is harvested from the most productive trees in early spring. It is not recommended to take shoots close to the trunk, as they do not form fibrous roots.

Own-root varieties can be propagated by root cuttings. In early spring, roots are dug up at a distance of 1 - 1.5 m from the trunk, root cuttings are cut about 15 cm long and 0.5-1.5 cm thick. In early May, the cuttings are planted in beds with loose, moist soil vertically or obliquely at a distance of 8 -10 cm, observing polarity. It is very important to keep the soil moist in the first month after planting, using a film cover.

When propagated by green cuttings prepare a film greenhouse with a substrate in advance - a mixture of peat and sand (1:1). The substrate must be moistened before planting.

Cuttings are harvested in June, when shoot growth has not yet finished.

For green cuttings, select long shoots (30 - 40 cm), cut them into pieces with 3 - 5 leaves, tie them into bundles of 25 - 30 pieces, place them overnight in a heteroauxin solution (100 mg per 1 liter of water), immersing the lower ends by 1 - 1.5 cm. In the morning, the cuttings are planted vertically to a depth of 2.5 - 3 cm with distances of 5 - 7 cm between rows and 5 cm in a row. In sunny weather, the greenhouse must be shaded with burlap. Depending on the weather, water from a watering can 1 - 3 times a day.

When propagated by grafting or budding Rootstocks (wildflowers) are first grown from seeds.

To do this, it is better to use the seeds of Skorospelka red or Renklod collective farm. Grafting with cuttings is carried out in the spring (April - May). Various grafting methods are used: improved copulation, splitting, bark grafting.

Budding (eye grafting) is carried out at the end of July- early August during the period of active sap flow, when the bark of the rootstock is well separated.

Most often, two methods of budding are used: by the bark and by the butt.

Correct selection of plum varieties

Plum cultivation success largely depends on correct selection varieties. On a plot of 6 acres, it is enough to have one tree each of early, middle and late dates maturation. It is important that they are well adapted to local conditions and have sufficiently high winter hardiness. For the central regions of Russia, varieties can be recommended, a brief description of which is presented in the table.

Preference should be given to self-fertile varieties, which bear fruit well even in the absence of other plum varieties. For most self-sterile varieties, pollinators can be plants with the same flowering time.

One of the best, reliable pollinating varieties is Skorospelka red, which can pollinate early, middle and late flowering varieties. The exception is Skoroplodnaya, for which the best pollinators are Red Ball and cherry plum varieties.

It would seem that it would be easier than ever to grow a plum. But only a very self-confident and not very knowledgeable person can think this way. This culture has its own specifics and subtleties. These will be discussed in the selection of materials.

Features of growth and fruiting

According to the nature of fruiting, varieties and types of plums are conventionally divided into three groups:

fruiting mainly on annual growth;
on perennial overgrowing branches;
both on annual shoots and on overgrowing branches.

Plum

In the first group of plums, group buds predominate on strong annual growths- two or three in one node (usually the middle bud is leafy, and the lateral ones are flowering). Group buds are concentrated in the middle part of the shoot. Below are single flower buds. The apical bud and the few buds closest to it are single leaf buds. The following year, bouquet branches and spurs develop from the lower leaf buds on the annual shoot. Above them, stronger growth shoots develop. Flower buds produce flowers and fruits. The bouquet branches and spurs of the varieties of the first group are very short-lived. The yield is determined by the number of flower buds on an annual shoot. After picking the fruits, the branches become very bare, especially if single flower buds predominate. The varieties of the first group are characterized by early fruiting and productivity, but require constant attention to maintaining strong shoot growth. This group includes most varieties of Chinese, Ussuri, American and Canadian plums.

Varieties of the second group are distinguished by the formation of perennial overgrowing branches or fruiting branches. The bulk of the harvest is placed on them. For varieties of this group, it is important that there is no excessive thickening of the crown, otherwise there will be a massive death of overgrown branches and fruiting will deteriorate. The second group includes mainly domestic plum varieties of Western European and southern origin.

The varieties of the third group have an intermediate fruiting pattern between the first and second groups. They bear fruit well both on annual growth and on relatively short-lived 3-4-year-old overgrowing branches. For varieties of the third group, along with maintaining strong growth, it is very important to promptly replace bare branches. The crown should also not be allowed to thicken; overgrowing branches should be in favorable lighting conditions. The third group includes the majority of Central Russian plum varieties: Skorospelka red, Vengerka Moscow. Tula black, Ochakovskaya yellow, etc.

When growing plums and pruning, you must remember that stone fruit crops have simple fruit buds, i.e., only fruits can form from them. On strong annual shoots there are group and single fruit buds. On weak growths, mostly single flower buds are formed. Therefore, when the growth weakens, the branches become exposed. It is enhanced by the fact that after two to four years of fruiting, the bouquet branches and spurs die off, forming thorns.

In summer, plum shoot growth may stop and then begin again. In this case, secondary shoots are formed.

The above-mentioned characteristics of plum growth and fruiting must be taken into account when pruning and forming the crown.

Plum

Shaping and trimming

The trees are formed with a trunk 25-40 cm high, the crown is made of 5 - 7 well-developed and well-placed branches. It is advisable to form skeletal branches not from adjacent buds, but from those spaced 10-15 cm from one another, shorten them to subordinate them, prevent the formation of forks, and change the direction of growth. The first pruning is carried out in early spring immediately after planting. If the start is late, then it is better to wait until next year.

Pruning the plum tree in the first years is necessary to form the main branches of the crown.. Excess branches, which can contribute to thickening of the crown, need to be weakened or removed. In varieties that bear fruit on annual shoots (one-year-old wood), shortening should be minimal so as not to cause the appearance of excessive branches that thicken the crown. Strong (50-60 cm) annual growths of young trees bearing fruit on two-year-old wood (bouquet branches and spurs) need to be shortened further. Well-developed shoots are shortened by 1/4-1/5 of their length to enhance the formation of shoots and the development of spurs.

When the tree enters full fruiting period, pruning is necessary to maintain vigor of shoots. If the crown is formed correctly and there is sufficiently strong annual growth (at least 40 cm), there is no need to shorten it. They are limited to thinning the crown with cutting out thickening, dry, incorrectly positioned and rubbing branches. With weak growth (less than 25-30 cm), without shortening the one-year shoot, cut to 2-3-year-old wood above the nearest lateral branch. If the growth is even less (10-15 cm), rejuvenating pruning is carried out on 4-5-year-old wood, that is, perennial branches are cut to strong lateral branching.

In grafted, well-developed trees, the root shoots are removed annually to the main root of the mother plant, leaving no stumps. In native root varieties, shoots are used for propagation. In case of severe freezing or death of the entire above-ground part, rooted varieties can be quickly restored by leaving two or three coppice plants at a distance of about 3 m from one another and forming them according to the described type. In case of death of grafted trees, you can also leave 2-3 coppice plants, but they must be regrafted with the desired varieties.

Plum

Work calendar (November to December)

November December. Regularly trample the snow on the tree trunks and around the buried seedlings to prevent mice from getting to the young trees. During heavy snowfalls, shake snow off branches. This will reduce their breakdowns. For better overwintering, sprinkle the buried seedlings with snow.

Until the coming severe frosts Prepare cuttings (annual shoots 20-30 cm long) for spring grafting. Leaving the preparation of cuttings until spring is risky, since in winter the shoots may freeze and the survival rate of the grafts will sharply decrease. Tie the cut cuttings into bundles and store them in a snow pile until spring. The temperature inside the pile remains at about 0″. Snow protects cuttings from drying out, low winter and high spring temperatures.

January. In snowless winters, shovel snow up tree trunks to protect the roots and trunk from freezing. After snowfalls, shake snow off branches to avoid damage. In young gardens, after a snowfall, trample the snow around the trees to protect them from damage by mice and the accumulation of moisture in the soil.

February. Continue work on snow retention in the garden, repairing garden equipment, delivering fertilizers, pesticides, etc. At the end of the month, shovel the snow from the plum stems and free them from the winter binding. It should be immediately taken out of the garden and burned. Whiten the stems and bases of the branches lime mortar(3 kg of freshly slaked lime -) - 2 kg of clay per bucket of water). This will help in the winter-spring period to smooth out temperature fluctuations on the surface of the bark during the day and reduce the appearance of sunburn.

To keep the snow in the pile where the cuttings are planted longer, sprinkle it with sawdust in a 15-20 cm layer at the end of February.

March. To attract birds in the first half of the month, hang birdhouses in the garden. Start pruning your plum tree in the middle of the month.

April. Continue unfinished work on cleaning the trunks and caring for the crown. Dig grooves to drain melt water.

When planting plum trees, take into account the strength of tree growth depending on soil and climatic conditions and varietal characteristics. In the southern regions of the country fertile soils plum trees develop more strongly, so plant them more spaciously - with a distance of 3-4 m in a row and 5-6 m between rows; in the middle zone, Siberia and the Far East - thicker: 2-3 m in a row and 3-5 m between in rows.

The best time to plant plums in the middle and northern zones is spring, in the south - autumn and winter.

As soon as the soil is ripe (becomes loose and crumbly), level the area and start digging holes (if this work has not been done in the fall). The size of the planting holes depends on the size of the root system. Usually, holes are prepared with a diameter of 60-80 cm and a depth of 40-60 cm. When digging holes, throw the top layer of soil in one direction and the bottom layer in the other. Upper layer mix the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers, adding 1 bucket of rotted manure (or 2 buckets of compost), 200-300 g (2-3 handfuls) of superphosphate and 40-60 g of potassium salt (or 300-400 g of wood ash). Then place the seedling against the stake in the planting hole, straighten the roots, cover it with fertile soil, compacting it with your feet so that no voids form between the roots. Immediately after planting, make a hole around the seedling, water it with water (2 buckets), tie the seedling to a stake with twine in the shape of a figure eight (loose), mulch with peat, sawdust or loose soil. Scatter the bottom layer of soil around the area. After planting, the root collar of the plants should be at soil level.

If the garden is already planted, dig up the soil under the crown and between the rows with a fork or shovel. To avoid damaging the root system, the plane of the shovel should always be in a radial direction to the trunk. Closer to the trunk, dig shallower (to a depth of 5-10 cm), as you move away - deeper (10-15 cm). Before digging, scatter nitrogen fertilizers under the tree crown (100-200 g per tree of urea or calcium nitrate in a young garden, 300-500 g in a fruit-bearing one). They will provide good growth and plum blossom.

For guard flowering trees Prepare smoke heaps to protect against returning spring frosts.

Sometimes cherries and plums are planted in lowlands, where cold air often stagnates in winter, causing damage or death of flower buds and branches. If the site is located in a lowland, you will have to abandon the cultivation of stone fruit crops.

It is necessary to know the depth of gruit water. They should not be closer than 1.5-2.0 m from the soil surface. If they are located closer together, cherries and plums should not be planted.

The importance of crown pruning should not be underestimated: it is sometimes carried out irregularly, causing the crown to thicken, fruit formations to die, and fruiting becomes irregular. Trees overloaded with harvest freeze even in comparatively cold conditions. mild winters and bear little fruit. This is why cherry and plum trees need to be pruned annually.

At the end of the month, start grafting the cuttings. This work can be done during the sap flow period.

Plum

May. If the air temperature drops to +1°, light the smoke piles. Stop smoking 1 to 2 hours after sunrise. To mitigate the effects of frost, water the soil under the trees and spray the crowns with water.

In hot, dry weather, be sure to water the plums (4-6 buckets of water per 1 tree). Before flowering, it is useful to feed the tree with organic or mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers (cow manure, bird droppings or feces) are diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 and 4-6 buckets of solution are applied under the tree (depending on the age of the garden). If there are no organic ones, liquid mineral fertilizers are used. One tablespoon of urea is dissolved in 10 liters of water and 2-3 buckets are applied to a young garden, and 4-6 buckets of liquid fertilizer per tree in an adult garden. To reduce moisture loss due to evaporation, immediately after fertilizing, mulch the soil with peat or sawdust.

If the row spacing of the garden is kept under black fallow, weeding and loosening of the soil are carried out 2-3 times a month. With natural grass, mow the grass regularly (5-6 times during the summer) and leave it in place as mulch.

Remove wild growth or harvest it for propagation.

June July. Continue caring for the plum garden: remove weeds, loosen tree trunks and row spacing. In dry years, water (5-7 buckets for each tree). After flowering (at the beginning of June) and during the formation of fruits (at the end of June), it is useful to fertilize with organic and mineral fertilizers. The doses of fertilizers are the same as for spring feeding.

In productive years, place supports under the main branches.

Aug. Sept. In gardens with natural turf between rows, mowing of grasses is stopped. When keeping the soil under black fallow, dig up tree trunk circles and autumn plowing between rows. Before digging, scatter organic and mineral fertilizers evenly under the tree crown. Good results are obtained by alternately applying organic and mineral fertilizers (every year). Per one tree, apply 1-2 buckets of organic fertilizers (humus or compost), mineral fertilizers - 200-500 g of superphosphate, 200-400 g of potassium salt (or 1-1.5 kg of wood ash). For young plantings, the doses of fertilizers are reduced, for fruit-bearing ones they are increased. Autumn fertilization improves the ripening of shoots, overwintering of plants and provides them with the nutrients necessary for growth and fruiting next year.

If the soil in your garden plot is acidic, lime it once every three years. To do this, grind the lime materials (slaked lime, ground limestone, dolomite, chalk), scatter them evenly over the area (300 - 500 g per 1 m2 of surface) and dig them up.

In August-September, plums are harvested, canned and processed.

For better overwintering of trees (especially in dry years), carry out moisture-recharging irrigation (5-7 buckets of water for 1 tree).

Start digging holes for spring planting. Planting material buy from autumn. For better overwintering, it is better to store seedlings in a trench. To do this, dig a groove 30-40 cm deep, lay the seedlings inclined (lowering the roots into the groove), sprinkle them with soil, compact it with your feet, water well (1 bucket of water for each plant), sprinkle soil on top again to form an earthen roller 20 cm high -30 cm. In this condition, the seedlings winter well until spring.

Plum

October. Moisture-recharging irrigation is completed, followed by mulching of the soil.

Clean the trunks and bases of branches from dead bark, mosses and lichens. After cleaning the wounds with a knife, rinse them with a 2-3% (20-30 g per 1 liter of water) solution of iron or 1-2% (10-20 g per 1 liter of water) copper sulfate. Then cover the wounds with garden varnish. If there are hollows, seal them with cement. White the trunks and bases of the branches with lime mortar (the concentration is the same as in February).

To protect young trees from rodents (hares, mice), tie the trunks with spruce branches (tops of branches down). For better overwintering, cover the trees with soil in a layer of 15-20 cm. Rake fallen leaves into piles and compost or burn (to destroy pests and diseases).

Plum

How to prevent errors

When caring for plantings of stone fruit crops, amateur gardeners often make mistakes, which is why they receive low fruit yields.

One of the typical mistakes is dense tree plantings. When the crowns close, the illumination of the branches deteriorates and they rush upward, which makes tree care and harvesting difficult. This circumstance should be taken into account when planting a garden.

Inexperienced gardeners make many mistakes when applying fertilizers. It is not uncommon to add too much or too little at one time. Large doses of organic fertilizers can cause fattening of young trees, delay the growth of shoots, and impair their ripening, which increases the danger of winter freezing. Increased doses of mineral fertilizers, in turn, increase the concentration of salts in the soil, which has a depressing effect on fruit trees. When applying low doses of fertilizers on poor soils, trees grow and bear fruit poorly. Therefore, you need to adhere to the optimal doses for your specific area.

Often the reason for low fruiting of cherries and plums is the incorrect selection of pollinating varieties. In single-varietal plantings of self-sterile varieties, trees often bloom well, but bear almost no fruit due to premature shedding of the ovaries. In such cases, it is necessary to plant pollinating varieties (the same flowering period as the main varieties) or graft their cuttings into the crown.

Plum

Stone fruits may bear fruit poorly due to freezing of fruit buds or their partial damage. If the fruit buds do not bloom, it means they are frozen. Often in early spring freezing of the pistil (central part) of the flower is observed. In this case, the tree blooms profusely, but does not form an ovary. Therefore, select highly winter-hardy varieties. In addition, you can protect trees from frost by preparing them well for winter: carry out moisture-recharging irrigation in the fall (especially after a dry summer), apply organic and mineral fertilizers, and protect plants from pests and diseases.

Only the yellow plum tree, which belongs to the variety of self-fertile plums, can bear fruit, however, it would be good for their representatives to have additional pollinators. Therefore, it is recommended to plant some other “suitable” plum variety close to each other. If for some reason it is impossible to plant other plums in the same area, then you can graft several branches onto the main tree.

Yellow plum inflorescences are treated with a honey solution, thereby attracting insects, allowing pollination to take place, even on unfavorable days. But to improve fruiting, you can add about one gram of boric acid to the honey solution.

Feed the yellow plum. The periods of fertilizing, as well as their composition, may vary, but preference should be given to substances that contain phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen and calcium. In addition, do not forget to treat the trunk and crown of the yellow plum from pests and various diseases in spring and autumn.

If you do not promptly prune old and diseased parts of the tree, the yellow plum will stop bearing fruit. Therefore, it is best to do this gradually, cutting off part of the branches annually.

In addition to all of the above, it should be noted that the yellow plum needs to be watered periodically if there is not enough rain. Be sure to water abundantly in the spring, when the plant is about to bloom, after flowering, and already in the fall.

Next to sea buckthorn, the same plums will bear fruit poorly.

I would advise removing the top layer of turf, watering the tree generously before flowering, and sprinkle soil on top.

1. there are varieties that enter fruiting late and increase the yield very slowly, BUT, as a rule, these are varieties with very delicious fruits, because it's worth the wait.

2. plums, with very rare exceptions, are self-sterile, i.e. A pollinator variety is needed. If the variety is known, look in the literature for the desired pollinating variety. If you took seedlings from a nursery, consult there. If you don’t know anything and took it from your friends, then plant Red Skorospelka (its pollen pollinates many varieties, except for thorns, cherry plums and all kinds of hybrids).

3. Is this actually Domestic Plum or Russian Plum (a hybrid of S. domestica with cherry plum and Ussuri plum)? In this case, identification will have to be carried out to correctly select the pollinator.
4. All plums are very willing to eat, feed them and water them before winter, the harvest and quality of the fruit will improve

Shedding of plums - this could be plum fatty stem.

Today, purely by chance, I discovered a ring made of something semi-transparent on the stem. The color is like dried office glue. I went through the list of diseases and pests of plums, nothing similar. I picked off part of the ring and it came off along with the upper part of the bark. Now I’m thinking what to do: pick it out and cover it with varnish, or with a clay mash with mullein and vitriol? And what is it anyway? Definitely not gum, I had it on an old cherry tree - I cured it.

Could this be the clutch of a ringed silkworm? If it's not gum.

Not everything, of course, but mostly the same. All my life I thought that silkworms lived in the south. I’ll scrape it off, cover it up and keep an eye on it.

Try bending branches.

In the spring you need to fertilize the soil with nitrogen, and in the fall it is recommended to use phosphorus and potassium. Humus is added even less frequently - once every 3-4 years. Its quantity per 1 m2 should be no more than 12 kilograms.

In dry years, it should be watered regularly throughout the summer, once or twice a month. At the same time, one adult tree should require up to 10 buckets of water; for a young tree, 4-6 buckets will be enough. It is also necessary to water the plum tree in September, because if it becomes exhausted even before the onset of winter frosts, it will be doubly difficult for the tree to survive the winter. After watering, it is recommended to mulch the soil near the tree trunk in order to retain moisture in it longer.

To protect the tree from damage by clasterosporia, the tree is sprayed with urea in the fall. Until the air temperature reaches the thermometer above 10 degrees, it is recommended to shake off and destroy such a plum pest as the sawfly. About 6 sprayings with a period of 7-10 days should be carried out in order to get rid of the plum moth. For spraying, it is recommended to use preparations such as Biotoxibacillin or Gaupsin.

aphid control

But the main enemy of plums is aphids, the agronomist emphasizes. - If you don’t fight it, you can not only lose the harvest, but also destroy the plant. It is very advisable to carry out a special treatment of plums in early spring, even before the buds open, namely, spray them with a urea solution (1 kg per bucket of water). But now it’s too late to do this! If pests do attack the plum in the summer, you can carry out emergency treatment by spraying the plant with an infusion of garlic, tomato tops, or a solution of the Fitoverm preparation.

Plum does not bear fruit in depleted soil. Apply complex mineral fertilizer every 2-3 years. Make a circle 25 cm deep near the trunk and add a handful of fertilizer into each. Fill the holes with soil.

Frost damage on a tree reduces yield, so choose seedlings for planting zoned varieties, although this is not a 100% solution to the problem. Clean the wounds and cover them with garden varnish. Harden the tree - in the fall, when the leaves fall, water abundantly, but without stagnating water.

At the beginning of summer, I lay old cardboard around the trunk and throughout the summer I dump cut grass on it, but in a thin layer, so that each layer wilts well and does not rot. By autumn, the cardboard rots, organic matter slowly decomposes, so there is balanced nutrition for plums, and there is enough moisture, even in the most drought. I recommend this method not only for plums, but also for all other fruit and ornamental shrubs. There is only one problem: to make such mulching clothes for everyone, there is not enough grass.

I sprinkle sawdust or peat (whatever is available) on top of the grass. The main thing is that the thickness is at least 8-12 cm. During the summer, the layers settle and I add organic matter.