Introducing indoor plant diseases with photos and names: fungal, bacterial, physiological and viral. Look at the photos for the most popular diseases of home flowers by their types in alphabetical order.
Fungal diseases of indoor plants with a photo
Fungal diseases are the most common. Many indoor and garden plants suffer from them ( vegetable crops, decorative, shrubs and trees). Mushrooms penetrate the roots along with or through damaged areas of the stem, leaves with dust.
Houseplants are also carriers of fungal diseases:, or. In their sweet secretions (pad), spores of the fungus, often sooty, settle, and infection of the flower begins.
Fungi are characterized by a high rate of reproduction and spread over the surface of the plant. Diseases are mainly manifested by spots or plaque on the leaves or stem.
fungal diseases indoor flowers
Alternaria, anthracnose, ascochitosis, red burn, root rot ("black leg" + late blight) and powdery mildew (+ downy).
As well as leaf rust, sooty fungus (black), septoria, gray rot, tracheomycosis (verticellosis + malsecco and fusarium) and phyllosticosis (brown spotting).
Anthracnose
Anthracnose
Root rot and late blight
Diseases of this group are most often caused by fungi of the genera: Phytophthora, Pythium and Rhizoctonia. The plant becomes infected from the roots, progressing the symptoms of the disease become visible on the aerial part.
Therefore, the leaves on young specimens (seedlings) have not yet turned yellow, and the roots with the lower part of the stem have already rotted.
leaf rust
leaf rust
sooty fungus
Sooty fungus (black)
Gray rot
Here are the most common plant diseases that are found on indoor flowers. Attention: on any plants in violation of agricultural technology (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planted in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases may appear. In the world around us, not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.
But very often, plants manifest several diseases at the same time, for example, orchids have tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternariosis. The good news is that the ones offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for the home), drugs of hazard classes 3 and 4 are allowed.
Alternariosis and dry spotting
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus infects mainly leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.
Symptoms: First, dry brown spots appear, first on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Usually concentric circles are visible on the spots. With the increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.
Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternating dry and wet periods. But optimal conditions for the development of the fungus at temperatures above about 25-30°C and humidity up to 90%.
Prevention
Avoid overcrowded plants, cut out excess branches and leaves during. Ventilate the room or greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.
Control measures
Fungicides used to combat alternariosis:
- abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
- acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
- oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
- hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
Anthracnose
The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palm trees, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.
Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, look different.
- Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small rounded or irregular shape spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear contour. Looks like yellow spot, with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it is a grayish ring.
- Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes usually reddish-brown, often with a slight yellow border, spots, from 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, holes form.
- Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish brown or gray brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are already noticeable when the plant is severely damaged. The spots on the fruits are gray-brown with a dark middle, depressed.
Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high humidity air (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water during irrigation.
Prevention
Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. Suspicious plants bought in the store are quarantined. When signs of the manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.
Control measures
Spraying, usually three treatments are enough, using fungicides:
- oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
- : 100 g per 10 liters of water
- colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
- strobi fungicide, in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
- abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water
Ascochitosis
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitosis of chrysanthemums, which most often affects plants of the Compositae family.
Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorosis border around the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under magnification with a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem easily breaks.
Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The causative agent is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates both severe drought and freezing of the soil. Preserved on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.
Prevention and treatment, as in .
Dropsy leaves (edema)
A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but resulting from waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually appears in succulents, typical for peperomia, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.
Symptoms: in a plant, most often on bottom side barely noticeable pimples appear on the leaf, they seem watery, but in fact they are dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf may be preserved, i.e. the spots are green, may acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that part of the roots dies (due to overdrying, waterlogging, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conductive vessels that were supplied by these roots. Since waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will not recover, but if the plant is given good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.
The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not depressed, grows noticeably, and the spots themselves small areas, affect 1-3 leaves on a bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!
Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not flood, after heavy watering and when compacting the soil in a pot, loosen the ground. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the volume of the pot.
Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)
The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.
Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false powdery rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (the specifics of the leaf structure). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the underside of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, light gray coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that came to the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this coating gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. The causative agent with a strong degree of damage can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).
The disease predominates in heavy acidic soils. Exacerbates the spread of high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.
Prevention
Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning the bushes. Change of soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease are already detected, avoid spraying and watering the leaves when watering.
Seed preparation for sowing:
- immersing them in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
- soaking in a seed treater, for example, Maxim preparation
Control measures
Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of horticultural and horticultural plants. You can get more modern drugs: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for Agriculture(in canisters and bottles), gardeners usually purchase them in collective purchases.
For a simple grower, fungicides are available:
- topaz 4 ml per 10 liters of water
- abiga-peak 50 g suspension per 10 l of water
- oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, three times
Start the treatment at the first sign of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.
Preparations: pure color, fast, rayok are ineffective against false powdery mildew.
powdery mildew
A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on oidium grapes.
Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small mealy spots appear on the flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and increase in size, become saturated. gray color. Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Powdery coating can be on both sides of the sheet. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. Most favorable conditions for the development of the disease - high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26°C.
From domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulias, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, Kalanchoe, etc.
Prevention
To prevent powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, pollination with sulfur can be carried out 3-4 times during the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases the resistance to the powdery mildew pathogen. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of disease, you constantly need to be on the lookout - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.
In addition to sulfur treatment, preventive spraying with whey (backwash) can be carried out. Ordinary whole milk will do, but whey is preferable (less traces on the leaves), you need to dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.
Fighting powdery mildew at home
If powdery mildew has fallen on indoor flowers, and violets (Saintpaulias), potted gerberas, indoor roses, then the same means can be used as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (bayleton), but preference should be given to fungicides such as topaz, fast.
You can use the preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, we breed 2 g per 10 liters of water, a maximum of 4 treatments: the first - along the green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop processing 20 days before harvesting.
It is safe enough to spray powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and blue vitriol: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.
If you heard from someone a recipe for fighting powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat it, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in extreme cases, they will help against bacteriosis, but no more.
You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oksikhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses, etc. horticultural crops- read more:.
Spraying with a solution of iodine helps as a preventive measure and treatment: dilute 1 ml of an alcohol pharmaceutical tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.
Septoria
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.
Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, as on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves at sub-zero temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):
- Pathogen Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperatures in the range of 28-31 °.
- The causative agent Septoria populi - the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.
Prevention
Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. With signs of a manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).
Treatment of septoria
When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to carry out spraying using chemicals: among them, popular in gardening, a 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (hom , oksikhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). As well as:
- colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
- strobi in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 liters of water
- abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
- fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.
Gray rot
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.
Symptoms: most often the affected areas are on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease passes to the leaves, ovaries of flowers and fruits.
Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. For the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot, it turns pale in the center to a straw color, blurry ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot looks like gray loose cotton wool or mold. Inside the stem, tissue necrosis develops, while the vessels die, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone withers.
Prevention
Prevention measures include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in the oven or microwave), regular airing of the rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially when kept cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations can be applied to the soil (spill the soil).
Control measures
At the first sign of the disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Powder the affected area charcoal, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of trichodermin (not a large number of moisten the powder with water) and smear the affected areas in the same way. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M (0.1%) or a solution of phytosporin (dilute to the color of tea). In case of severe damage, spray:
- (0,2%)
- copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
- fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok - dilute any 4 ml per 5 liters of water
Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.
sooty fungus
Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aukuba, buksus, laurels. It is caused by the fungus Capnopodium, which settles on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs. By itself, the plaque is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down growth and weakens.
Control measures: timely spraying from pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing the disease, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm pure water, carry out treatment with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.
Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, carefully examine the nature of the spots, put the plant in quarantine.
leaf rust
The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.
Symptoms: are expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles on the upper surface of the leaf, sometimes yellow or red round spots. FROM reverse side pustules are clearly visible on the leaf - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
Prevention
The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high humidity, but even with good care infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new ones bought in a store potted plants like gerberas. The infection can also come from garden soil, because rust often affects apple or pear trees.
Control measures
Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply fungicide spray:
- abiga-peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
- bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
- Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
- 10 g per 1 liter of water
- oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
- ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
- strobe
- 4 ml per 10 liters of water
- hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
Repeat the treatment 2-3 times in 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.
Phyllosticosis (brown spot)
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Of the domestic flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to the disease.
Symptoms: Small dark reddish or dark purple dots first appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leather leaves, holes form. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.
Orchid phyllosticosis manifests itself in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes do not form, the disease is often called "black spotting", since the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, as orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.
Prevention
Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering if necessary, but not more often, pour water only under the root, water should not fall on the root neck, in the axils of the leaves. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure plants get enough light, weakened chlorosis leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation must be very good - indicator proper ventilation- the absence of mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe temperature regime, consider the species requirements of orchids and other plants - deviation from the norm and habitual care weakens the immune system.
Treatment of phyllosticosis
- Vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
- abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 liters of water
- strobi - 4 g per 10 liters of water
- oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
- fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 liter of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
Spraying at the first signs of the disease or prophylactic, then subsequent with an interval of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can cut the leaf only when it has already turned yellow. The rest is treated by spraying.
root rot
This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora and others. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.
Orchids, saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.
The black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the decay of the lower part of the shoot, the cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects when the soil is waterlogged, poor aeration, if the clods of earth are so dense that an anaerobic environment is constantly around the roots. The source of infection is unsterilized earth mixtures, inventory, pots and seedling boxes after diseased plants.
late blight
This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down growth, fades somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but are covered with extensive brown spots that start from the central vein.
Prevention
Pick up correct soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earth mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, such as can be bought in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add a drug to the plant pot
Make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, water after the permissible degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, then the soil in the pot should have time to dry out by the next watering by about 1/2 or 1/3 of the upper part of the pot. If you dip your finger into the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water.
If the plant is recommended moderate watering, then the soil should dry out completely - if you dip your finger into the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter there). Of course, you should not stick your fingers into the ground before each watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering so that it has time to dry in depth. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature drops, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.
To propagate indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the ground for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneria, gardenia, sheffler). Old, already used pots in which the plants died must be scalded with boiling water.
Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug maxim.
Control measures
With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots died off, and most of the shoots drooped, lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig has blackened on rooting, it can be cut off, drop phytosporin into water and put on rooting again.
If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is urgent to remove the plant from the pot. Rinse the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, treat them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:
- Alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
- Hamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
- ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
- 3 ml per 2 liters of water
- baktofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
- oxychom 10 g per 5 l of water
- hom 20 g per 5 liters of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
spotting
This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.
Pathogens - fungi genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia and others. Spotting is a disease whose causative agent is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not pronounced. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size with the spread of the disease, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to diseases, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out also slowly.
Prevention of spotting
Contribute to the development of diseases violations of conditions of detention. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering cold water or when transporting home from the store during the cold season). Spotting can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.
Avoid large plant crowds and excessive watering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or bactofit. Can be added to pots when planting tablets of the drug.
Control measures
IN garden conditions you need to collect and destroy any plant debris with stains from dead plants. Prune affected leaves and branches from houseplants. Spray with fungicides that can deal with most fungal infections.
- abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
- acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
- oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
- hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
- alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
- Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
- 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water diluted)
- copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 liters of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
At home, indoor flowers from spotting should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok (6 drops per 1 liter of solution).
Red burn
The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospora Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrums and some bulbous.
Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a diseased plant, the deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not begin or stops, the bulbs rot.
Treatment
Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns of the primordia of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.
You can treat the red burn of hippeastrum with other fungicides:
- fundahol (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
- oxychom 4 g per 1 liter of water
black spot
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.
Symptoms:
- Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large rounded spots, initially yellowish and blurry. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
- Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
- Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, dotted or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and bulging stroma.
- Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.
A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high humidity, shading and high temperatures.
Control measures
Spraying with fungicides:
- abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
- acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
- benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
- Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
- oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
- hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
- alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
Spraying three times in 10 days.
Tracheomycosis
Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilt- pathogens enter through the roots and affect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumen of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to fade.
Tracheomycoses include diseases such as:
- verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)
- fusarium wilt (fusarium)
- malsecco in citrus
The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in the laboratory, all are incurable, they are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Particularly affected by tracheomycosis are orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. From other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.
There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus can resist.
In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are simply called: wilt - from wilt - to fade.
verticillium wilt
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, infects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and reproduces systemically throughout the plant.
Symptoms: in the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry. On the section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. Vessel lumens are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants lag behind in growth, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying up and death of individual branches of the bush. If the conditions are favorable, then the disease passes to other branches and the whole plant dies rather quickly. If add up unfavourable conditions for the development of the fungus, the disease can last for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies off.
The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. The optimum temperature for germination of sclerotia is 25-27°C, humidity 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value = 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the wilting of the leaves begins with lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.
Prevention
Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour on a baking sheet with a layer of 5 cm, heat at maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, fungicide maxim)
Control measures
Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and distribution through conductive vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, vectra (3 ml per 10 l of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.
Fusarium (fusarium wilt)
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.
Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can take place according to the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with rotting of the roots. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and penetrates the plant through the soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile instrument during grafting or pruning. The increased humidity of air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.
Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root neck. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tops of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, the darkening of the vessels is also visible on the transverse section. But sometimes tracheomycosis appears only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If you cut off (the cut is clean without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches during the time, you can root and get a healthy plant.
The rate of the course of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is lowered, then the disease can become chronic, then the plant slowly fades within 3-4 weeks.
Control measures
Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.
If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:
- Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
- benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids can be 1 g per 100 ml
- alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
- Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.
How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw away or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution, and carefully spray the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in a fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, foam, cork). Do not spray, dip as needed on a short time(5 minutes is enough). It is advisable to keep diseased orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense but diffused lighting (possible under lamps).
The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by spilling it properly with a solution of potassium permanganate ( Pink colour), drug, Maxim, or the introduction of trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.
Almost every housewife is engaged in breeding indoor flowers. In addition to the joy of contemplating the beautiful, they require proper care.
Sometimes problems happen to them, they get sick and dry, they are affected by pests. Diseases of indoor plants, when dry tips of leaves appear, are quite common.
There are reasons why indoor plants develop dark tips on their leaves. Often such problems are easily corrected, but sometimes there is a long struggle for the survival of a flower. The main causes of common diseases are:
- Watering from the tap. Most common mistake, which is fraught with dryness of the tips of the leaves. tap water contains the chemicals fluorine and chlorine, which, rising from the roots into the leaves, cause burns of the latter.
- Bay or insufficient watering of the soil. Darkening of the tips of the greens may indicate that the flowers are receiving too much or too little water. Excess moisture causes roots to rot, turning into green rot. Overdrying the earthy coma causes the plant to dry out.
- Pests. Houseplants are often affected by pests, of which there are many. When the plant is damaged by insects, the ends of the leaves also become dark brown.
- Dry air. Those that naturally grow in areas with high humidity are hard to tolerate dry air. At excessive watering the situation will not improve, and even, on the contrary, will become worse, because the roots rot, therefore, very little water reaches the leaves.
- Fertilizers. Overdrying of leaf tips can cause excessive use of fertilizers.
General measures to combat leaf dryness
Regardless of the causes of dry leaf tips, hygiene measures must be taken.
To grow beautiful lush plants, you need their proper location in the room:
- Firstly, flower pots should be placed away from heating appliances: radiators, heaters, fans. It is good if the plants are located in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen).
- Secondly, it is better to form indoor plants in groups so that there is less evaporation from the leaves.
- In time, the risks of soil contamination and the appearance of salts should be destroyed. It is necessary to remove white plaque from the top layer of soil, replace this layer of soil with a new one.
- The leaves of the plant are thoroughly cleaned of dust as often as possible and wiped with a damp sponge or cloth.
- You can increase the humidity in the room using a container of water placed near the flower. Evaporating liquid will humidify the air.
- With dry air during heating season or in dry climates, a special humidifier is used. You can, of course, use a spray gun, but there is little effect from it or spraying should be done after 10 minutes. Great solution in the case of dry air is the use of gravel placed in a pan and sprinkled with water. But the bottom of the pot should not touch the water in order to avoid rotting of the roots. In addition to gravel, expanded clay is used for the same purposes. The water poured into the pan evaporates in a warm room and, accordingly, the humidity rises.
- To prevent stagnant liquid and rotting of the root system, it is necessary that the flower pot has holes for drainage. Before watering, it is good to use an earthen ball moisture meter to determine the amount of water to add to the containers.
To protect the plant from pests, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures. If the pots are not used for the first time, they must be thoroughly washed and poured with purchased soil or homogeneous soil, calcined well in the oven, which will destroy insects and their larvae. A newly planted plant should be isolated for a month and regularly inspected for damage by harmful insects. A month later, the flower can be attached to others. Every week, it is advisable to wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth or soap diluted in water in the presence of pests.
You can not put indoor flowers on windows or balconies during the scorching sun. Leaves of plants get burned, leading to death.
The water quality has great value for growing indoor flowers. Instead of tap water, it is better to water with rain or melt water. In extreme cases, you can use boiled water or let stand to allow the chemicals to evaporate.
Brown spots on leaves
Brown spots on the leaves of indoor plants are undoubtedly a concern for gardeners. Most likely, the plant is affected by a fungal disease. Dry brown spots at the beginning of the disease are formed on the lower leaves, then they move to the upper ones. Over time, the spots become darker.
The causes of flower diseases are most often differences in various temperatures, watering with very cold water, a change in humidity, which consists in the alternation of dry and humid air.
IN preventive purposes plants should be avoided. It is necessary to thin out the flower in a timely manner, cutting out extra branches and leaves.
It is also necessary to systematically ventilate the room, whether it be a room or a greenhouse. When finding indoor flowers on the balcony, you need to make sure that it is well ventilated. In addition, a thorough inspection of the walls can reveal a violation of the microclimate. An indicator of a bad atmosphere is the appearance of mold on the walls.
You can fight the fungal disease with the help of effective fungicides.
Shield on plants
It is quite difficult to detect scale insects on plants. The insect is mobile and very small, only 5 mm. The insect is very dangerous, as it sucks the juice from plants. As a result, the leaves fall off, dry, and then everything dies.
Shield on indoor plants dangerous and difficult to remove, but there are ways to deal with the enemy of home flowers at home.
Conventional pest control methods often do not bring positive results. This is due to the fact that the scale insect has a wax shield, which makes it invulnerable to chemicals. But dangerous enemy You can still win, you just need to be patient, since the process of destruction is long. Moreover, destruction requires right approach.
Treatment of indoor plants - on video:
Of course, indoor plants are less likely to suffer from diseases and pests than their garden relatives, as they usually are under more scrutiny. But if they are nevertheless damaged by insects or exposed to infection, it is much more difficult to treat them, because “green pets” are more pampered and capricious, they react worse to outside interference and, especially, to the use of chemicals. Incorrect location (very dark, too sunny, excessively cold, very warm, low humidity) as well as improper care (too much water, lack of moisture, wrong fertilizer, unsuitable substrate) can cause bad condition plants. Unskilled care also contributes to the damage of indoor flowers by pests and diseases, the plants refuse to bloom, wither, and, in the end, die. Enemies, as they say, you need to know in person. Therefore, check out the photos and names of diseases and pests of indoor plants, learn about the causes of damage and how to get rid of these insects and infections.
Diseases of indoor flowers: photos, causes and methods of struggle
In this section of the article, you will learn how to deal with some houseplant diseases and see what the symptoms look like.
Brown edges of leaves
Causes: excess or lack of water, excess soil that has lost its suitability, dry air. Control measures: optimize care, increase air humidity.
twisted leaves
Causes: low air humidity, dry land. Root damage can also cause this plant disease. Control measures: optimize care, if necessary.
Pale leaves (chlorosis)
In plants that prefer acidic soil, such as azalea and spurge. The leaf veins are still green. Causes: hard water, iron deficiency. Control measures: soften the water, add an iron preparation to the water.
Light spots on the leaves
Causes: temperature fluctuations, too cold or too warm water. Humidification in the sun (for example, in the uzambar violet). Control measures: change location, optimize care, water from below.
powdery mildew
Symptoms: powdery coating from white to dirty brown on both sides of the leaves. Causes: fungus spores. As you can see in the photo, you can fight this disease of indoor plants with the help of fungicides:
gray mold
Symptoms: gray-brown coating on leaves, petioles or flowers. Causes: unsuitable for spraying or cold water too high humidity. Control measures: remove diseased parts of the plant, reduce air humidity, put in a brighter place.
Bacteria and viruses
Bacterial soft rot occurs in alpine violet and house calla. Symptoms: rot at the base of the stem. As shown in the photo, with this disease of indoor flowers, if there is no proper treatment, the rot spreads throughout the plant:
mosaic virus
First of all, it affects orchids, gloxinia, hippeastrum. Symptoms: light green and dark green spots. Control measures: No. Reset of the kidneys is most often caused by a violation of the water balance. Either the plant has experienced a lack of moisture, or as a result of excessive moisture, the roots are so damaged that they cannot absorb and transport a sufficient amount of moisture. Some plants, such as stephanotis or camellia, shed their buds even when the location changes dramatically. Premature shedding of flowers is also a consequence of a change in place of growth and is especially evident when the plant is not hardened enough. Inactive flowering may be due to genetic factors (some varieties bloom less than others) or a lack of phosphorus, a violation of the dormant period, or improper wintering. Cracked pedicels are considered the result of irregular watering. This can lead to tension in the tissues and rupture of the shoots. Rotting flowers or buds indicate gray mold infestation. These photos show the symptoms of some indoor plant diseases:
Pests of indoor plants: photos, causes and control measures
The most favorable time for pests of indoor flowers is the end of the heating period. Lack of light and dry air in a heated room put plants at risk of pest damage. During this period, spider mites and aphids appear especially often on plants. Summer and autumn are the season for whiteflies. The best prevention is care that meets the needs of plants. Choose the most suitable locations. In addition, you should devote more time to observing plants. First of all, pay attention to the underside of the leaves. In this case, it is often possible to detect a disease or pests in the initial stage of the lesion. Sick plants should be isolated to avoid spreading the infection to other specimens.
Spider mites
Symptoms: cobwebs under and between leaves. Causes: too dry air. Control measures: increase air humidity, use a warm shower, add predatory mites. Also, special preparations are used to combat these pests of indoor flowers.
soft-bodied mites
Symptoms: twisted leaves, cessation of growth. Causes: infection, which is promoted by heat and high humidity. Control measures: reduce temperature and humidity. Parts of indoor plants affected by this pest must be removed and destroyed.
thrips
Symptoms: silvery strokes on the leaves. Look at the photo - when indoor flowers are affected by this pest, brownish traces of the introduction of sucking insects appear on the underside of the leaves:
whiteflies
Symptoms: small white flies on the underside of the leaves. Causes: infection from other plants. Control measures: lower the temperature, since the tropical insect does not tolerate coolness. Also, traps, riders and insecticides are used to combat this pest of indoor plants.
Shchitovki
Symptoms: brown shields under which insects sit. Pay attention to the photo - indoor plants affected by these pests shed their leaves:
Felt and mealybugs
Symptoms: cotton-like formations, especially in the axils and on the underside of the leaves. Bad growth. Causes: too dry air. Control measures with these insect pests of indoor plants are the same as in the fight against scale insects.
Nematodes
Symptoms: glassy or brown spots limited by leaf veins. Dropping leaves. Causes: infection promoted by moisture on the leaves. Control measures: remove diseased leaves and destroy. Keep the leaves dry. Here you can see photos of the main diseases and pests of indoor plants:
Changes that occur with the leaves of plants indicate the presence of pests, diseases or care errors. A healthy leaf is strong, with flawless edges and a tip. Pay attention to metamorphoses and take action. Leaves are the life nerve of a plant and are therefore the best indicator of the presence of pests and diseases. Sometimes buds and flowers are also damaged. The main causes of such damage should be known. The pale colors of the flowers indicate an excess of sunlight. Deformed or broken flowers indicate the presence of pests, such as aphids.
How to get rid of indoor plant pests: flower protection methods
There are several ways to deal with houseplant pests. Some of the most effective are mechanical protection, biotechnical methods and the use of chemicals. How to get rid of pests on indoor plants using mechanical protection:- Carry out the removal of the affected parts of the plant.
- Carry out pest removal, including washing them in the shower.
- Immerse the above-ground parts of the affected plant in warm water with a small amount detergent. The pot must first be placed in a plastic bag and tied on top.
- Riders against whiteflies,
- Predatory mites against spider mites and fringe-winged,
- Predatory gall midges, golden eyes or riders against aphids.
- The yellow plates are glue-covered insect traps that attract with their bright color mining flies, whiteflies, sciarids and other flying pests.
- In the “plant bath”, due to the very high humidity of the air, spider mites are destroyed. To do this, water the plant well and place it in a transparent plastic bag. Beware, rot! Plants with soft leaves such processing is not tolerated.
- Oil-based products, such as white oil, clog the airways of insects. Sprays for leaf shine work in a similar way.
- Follow the directions for use and dosage on the package.
- Follow recommended spray intervals to eliminate new generations of pests.
- Do not use sprays that are harmful to the environment.
- Treat plants only outdoors.
- Wear gloves and do not inhale sprays.
- Store plant protection products in the closed original packaging, out of the reach of children and pets.
- Don't keep leftovers chemicals, their effectiveness is quickly lost. Do not dispose of chemicals with normal household waste, but take them to special waste collection points.