Indoor violets: types, purchase and care at home. How to care for violets at home in a pot for beginners How to care for indoor violets in a pot

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Violet or Saintpaulia is a genus belonging to the Gesneriev family. It grows wild in the mountainous regions of East Africa. It was discovered by the scientist Saint-Paul, after whom it was named. Today, many varieties have been bred from this plant, which are widespread in indoor gardening.


General information

Violet is a low perennial, with a very short stem and many fleshy leaves. The flowers are small, simple, collected in clusters. Modern selection has been able to develop varieties with a wide variety of colors and petal shapes.

In fact, indoor Saintpaulia This is not a violet at all, it is called that because of its similarity with the forest violet and the tricolor pansy, but in fact they are from different families.

The classification of Saintpaulias is quite complex, so we will only convey General characteristics. The traits that differentiate violets are: rosette type, rosette size, foliage color, flower type and color, and number of petals.

Most modern varieties are very different from ordinary indoor violets; they have different shape leaves, and the petals look like corrugated or terry.

Among the highly decorative varieties, the most popular are duchess , amadeus , frosty cherry , Cinderella's dream , Isadora , Angelica , lithuanica and others.

But it is also a representative of violets themselves, and not Saintpaulias. And alpine violet is actually cyclamen.

Violet care at home

Proper care of your violet will help you enjoy its blooms throughout almost the entire year.

Saintpaulias love light, but they should not be placed in direct sunlight. It is not scary if the light falls on them in the morning or evening, but if the sun is turned towards them at noon, the leaves will burn.

For a violet to fully bloom, it needs about 13 hours of daylight. If you follow this rule, you can achieve flowering even in winter.

When the bar on the thermometer drops below 15°C, Saintpaulia stops growing. In summer best temperature for a flower it will be 24°C. In winter, the temperature may drop slightly, but not below this point.

Also, sudden temperature changes and drafts should not be allowed. Because of this feature, it is better not to take Saintpaulia outside in the summer.

Violet needs high humidity air, but do not get water on the foliage and inflorescences.

The container for planting should be selected small. If there is too much space in the pot, the violet will not bloom until it fills it with roots. Small plastic pots, the size of which should be 2-3 times smaller than the rosette, are quite suitable for this plant.

Soil for violets

Ordinary indoor violets are not particularly picky about the soil, but for varietal violets you should select the right substrate. You can buy it in a store, or you can make it yourself by mixing half a share of turf soil, two shares of leaf soil, and one each of humus and sand. You should also add a spoonful of superphosphate and a little bone meal.

But the most important thing is that the soil is loose and slightly acidic. A drainage layer should be placed at the bottom of the pot.

Watering violets

When planting, the flower is placed in the center of the container and gradually filled with earth so that there are no voids left. After planting, water the plant.

Violets do not need to be watered often, about once every 7-10 days. It is best to use bottom watering. At the same time, use settled warm water.

Violets can, and if the leaves become dirty, need to be sprayed and washed. But before carrying out these procedures, the flower must be removed from the windowsill. After spraying or showering, you should also not rush to put the violet in place - wait until it dries, otherwise spots will form on the foliage.

Fertilizer for violets

Saintpaulia also needs to be fertilized. To do this, take complex fertilizers, which begin to be applied during the period of growth of green mass. Fertilization continues until the dormant period begins, the frequency is once every 10 days along with watering.

It is recommended to use a lower concentration of fertilizers than stated in the instructions.

Transplanting violets at home

Indoor violets require annual replanting, since they deplete the soil over the course of a year. In this case, you need to replace the pot only if you observe signs that the flower does not have enough space (shrinking foliage, weak flowering).

It is best to replant plants in early spring by transshipment, so that the roots do not suffer too much.

Pinching violets

Violets bush well, but to increase their decorative value they need to be pinched. This especially applies to the lower leaves. They can be torn off with the petioles, since they quickly fade and only take away the flower’s strength. You should also get rid of sluggish inflorescences and ugly and yellowed foliage.

Sometimes turn the plant in a circle so that the bush grows evenly.

Gradually, after removing the lower leaves, the Saintpaulia trunk will become visible and over time it will only become more noticeable. In order for the flower to remain beautiful as before, it can be replanted by deepening the trunk into the soil or cutting off all the leaves, leaving only a couple of centimeters of the stem.

After this, the stump remaining after pruning is placed in water until a root forms and planted in the soil, thus creating another plant.

Propagation of violets by division

Saintpaulia can be propagated by seeds, rosettes and leaves. The seed method is practically not used due to its complexity, and also due to the fact that as a result the flower will lose varietal characteristics and you will get a regular violet.

If your plant has grown greatly and new rosettes have begun to form on it, then they need to be separated and planted in other containers. Dividing can be done even during flowering.

Violets propagated by leaf

The most common and the easy way is growing violets from leaves. To do this, take a strong leaf along with the petiole and place it in water to form roots. But you can try to immediately plant the leaf in a substrate of sand, leaf soil and peat (4: 2: 1). Such a container is covered with glass and kept warm and in good light, but so that direct rays do not fall on the container.

Sometimes the soil needs to be watered, but only to keep it slightly moist. It happens that the leaf begins to wither or does not change at all. If this happens, there is no need to rush and throw away the material - sometimes it takes a long time for a new plant to form.

If, with the appearance of young foliage, the old leaf is in good condition, then it needs to be cut off. After this, you can even try to use it for reproduction again.

If you root a leaf in the ground, then you cannot observe the formation of roots, but the speed of their appearance and the chance of getting a new violet increases.

Diseases of violets

Ordinary Saintpaulias are quite resistant to diseases, but varietal species are not at all as strong in this regard.

  • One of the most common diseases affecting violets is powdery mildew. She appears as a white coating on the leaves plants. If a disease is detected, we recommend using Fundazol or Bentlan.
  • Late blight leads to rotting of the roots and the formation of brown spots on the foliage . If the plant is sick, it must be destroyed and the container in which it was grown must be sterilized.
  • Gray rot forms gray spots on the body of the plant . If any are found, you should immediately cut them off and treat them with a fungicide. The soil in which diseased plants grew can no longer be used.
  • Furaziosis appears when there is excess moisture. He leads to rotting of the stem and leaf petioles . If you notice these symptoms, treat the violet with a fungicide.
  • Rust appears as small orange spots on the leaves. . To cure a flower, use a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Possible difficulties

The most FAQ about indoor violets associated with a lack of flowering, yellowing of foliage and leaf spotting.

  • If your violet doesn't bloom , then, in addition to pests, there may be a number of reasons for this: lack of light, short daylight hours, excess nitrogen fertilizing, excessive amount of moisture in the soil or lack of it in the air. This problem is also caused by a large growing container and an excessively dense substrate.
  • Yellowing leaves may indicate aging of the flower . This also occurs when placed in direct sunlight. This can be observed when the soil acidity deviates from the norm, as well as when there is an excess of phosphorus fertilizers.
  • Most often the spots are on the leaves are the result of pests and diseases, but sometimes they appear due to drafts.
  • Stains from the edges of the sheet indicate a lack of potassium in the soil - which means the substrate has been depleted and it’s time to replant the flower.
  • Dry spots are formed if the violet is in direct sunlight.

Violet is one of the flowers whose name even speaks of its tenderness and refined simplicity. Even if this flower is simple, do not believe anyone who says that it is easy to grow at home. For a novice gardener, it will not be easy to learn all the tricks of caring for violets in order to ensure a comfortable existence for the flower in a pot on the windowsill of your home.

Brief description of the flower

Violet in wild form is common in regions with temperate climates, in North America, Japan and the Andes, where more than 400 species of this plant are concentrated. According to some information, there are about 700 varieties of violets and hybrids, including cultivated indoor, garden and greenhouse species. Latin name violets - Viola, and the common Russian - Pansies.

  1. Roots decorative indoor violets are superficial, their depth in the soil is no more than 20-30 cm, so they can be grown in small pots that will fit even on the narrowest window sill or shelf.
  2. Violet potted refers to perennial herbaceous plants, the height of the bush is small, only 15-20 cm.
  3. Leaves and stipules the plants grow abundantly in the lower part of the bush, giving the top to peduncles with flowers of the most iridescent shades. The structure of the leaves is crinkled, oval shape, pointed at the tips, their color can be rich green; as they grow, some of them become green-purple or dark purple (depending on the variety).
  4. Violet flowers domestic bisexual, that is, self-pollinating. Flower sizes vary (from varietal affiliation) from 2 to 6 cm, in shape they can be simple with smooth petals (5 pieces) and arranged in one tier, or terry - in 3-4 tiers with curly edges.

Violet propagates by rooting a leaf, or even part of it, this is done in water or in an earthen substrate. If the propagation process is carried out correctly, then on the central vein of a leaf or petiole placed in the ground or in water, small roots will soon grow that can develop independently during mature plant. When 3-5 roots grow, the leaf can be planted in a pot in a permanent place.

Secrets of care

Caring for an indoor violet is not an easy task; in order for the plants to bloom wildly, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for them that would meet all the requirements of this capricious flower. Not every novice gardener succeeds in everything the first time; sometimes you have to correct mistakes, start over, and look for the most acceptable answers to your questions about growing violets at home.


Such questions arise from few experienced flower lovers, because they never learned this, there was no need, as they say. But for her birthday, the birthday girl was given not an ordinary bouquet of flowers, but a violet in a pot. The question immediately flashes through, and it can even lead to panic: “What should we do with him now? How to care?

No need to panic, take a look at our page, read this article, watch a very interesting video. Half the job is done, the other half is to follow our recommendations and advice experienced florist, who in practice, making the same mistakes as you, has studied all the whims of the violet and reveals its secrets to all of us.

Substrates

After some time, the owner of a violet in a pot begins to notice that something is wrong with her flower: the leaves wither and droop, the petals fall off, and the pot becomes too small. We need to help the plant. The plant must be transplanted into a larger container. Let's start with the main thing - with the land for transplantation. Soil mixtures for violets must meet the following requirements:

  • You only need to use special earthen substrates for violets; they can be purchased in specialized stores;
  • Additionally, buy a bag of vermiculite to create looser soil;
  • Mix the substrate and vermiculite in a 1:1 ratio;
  • V drainage hole At the bottom of the container, stretch a “string” of elastic nylon, it can be made from old women’s tights, fasten it to the height of the pot (see the video for how to do this in practice);
  • Place a drainage layer of expanded clay, small pebbles or brick chips(at 1/6 of the height of the pot);
  • free the violet from the old cramped container, place it in a new pot, there is no need to water the ground, the substrate should be dry;
  • Fill the container completely with soil, holding the plant upright.

Capacities


Violet can be replanted once every 2-3 years, so you should not immediately use too large pots, otherwise the plant will intensively grow its root system, and you will not get flowers from it. A new container must be selected taking into account an increase in the diameter of the pot by no more than 2-3 cm. Required condition The container must have at least 4 drainage holes at the bottom.

Before using for transplantation, containers must be sterilized in hot water using disinfectants, dry.

On a note!

The material for the pot can be different: plastic, ceramics, plexiglass. The main condition for the material is environmental friendliness.

Secrets of watering

One of the most important points in caring for violets is the organization of watering. You can properly care for violets so that they bloom profusely only by knowing this secret. This plant does not like close contact with water, although it will never refuse the necessary moisture. Many gardeners have made mistakes when starting to grow violets by overwatering the surface of the soil in the pot or even the plant itself.

The plant needs water, but in mountainous areas where wild forms of violets live, wild relatives of indoor plants are accustomed to extracting moisture from rocky soil. This ability has been preserved in the plant at the genetic level, so watering the soil only delays the growing season of the plant and the violet stops forming flower ovaries.


Our meticulous flower growers found a way out here too, of course not right away, but after spending a lot of time and effort on solving this problem, experimenting with different ways watering a capricious flower. The invention of flower lovers is contained in a small cord, which is attached to the surface of the pot and covered with a substrate, and its lower end is threaded into a drainage hole at the bottom of the container.

The cord serves as a conductor from a container with water to the root system of the violet, so the plant receives required amount moisture. The water in the additional container is changed 1-2 times a month, at the same time fertilizers are dissolved in it. Thus, two problems are solved at once - watering and feeding a flower in a pot (see photo). The violet regulates its water balance itself, so it develops well and blooms profusely.

Fighting midges

Often, when growing potted violets, gardeners have problems with the appearance of black midges on the flowers. This phenomenon is caused by the fact that tea leaves are used to fertilize the plant, which deteriorates over time, causing an unpleasant odor and the appearance of this notorious midge.

If you use tea leaves, then you need to remove it from the surface of the earth after 2-3 days, until it completely rots and attracts a swarm of midges. But it's better not to use it anyway improvised fertilizer, but use proven means for feeding violets.

Midges can fly from one plant to another; the problem may not be with the violet, but with the presence of harmful insects on other flowers nearby on the same windowsill or shelf. Inspect all pots and immediately remove any rotting debris in containers containing other flowers.

Illumination

It should be noted that the degree of illumination of the place where they are located plays an important role when caring for violets at home. The best option for violets is round-the-clock lighting: natural during the day, and additional at night ( LED bulbs). In summer you need to cover the flower from direct sun rays without causing sunburn.

The usual place for violets is the window sill, but in winter period glass can be very cold, so you should move the pot with the plant to a warmer place or somehow insulate the glass.

Conclusion

Love flowers, because they not only decorate our life, but also create spiritual comfort for us, where there is no place for quarrels, insults and disappointments. Love flowers - live long.

Almost every home has indoor plants. They give comfort. Violets are a common indoor type. Even the laziest residents breed them in their apartments. There are no special requirements for caring for violets at home. They do not dry out if you forget to water them 1 or 2 times. But in order for the flowers to be bright and pleasing to the eye, it is still worth following a few recommendations for caring for them. This does not require additional time and effort.

The scientific name for violet is Saintpaulia. It refers to perennial plants. Its stems are low and shortened. The leaves come off as a rosette. Based on the shape of the flowers, Saintpaulia is classified into several varieties - simple, double and fringed. Each of them has its own peculiarity. It is worth special mentioning the ampelous appearance. It differs from others in that the stem branches and creates several bunches of leaves. This looks somewhat unusual. The leaves of the ampelous species are small and sparse compared to other species.

The color of Saintpaulia petals can be monochromatic or multi-colored. Various patterns may appear on the surface. The most common colors are red (scarlet, burgundy), pink and white. There are darker colored Saintpaulias, but they are considered rare and not as popular. The plant is grown not only at home. It can be found in open areas - flower beds, parks, squares, etc. Flowers are often used to prepare traditional methods for treating diseases of the skin and respiratory tract.

Motherland

The father appreciated his son's discovery. Therefore, already in 1892 the find was presented at international exhibition flowers in Belgium. After this, the seeds were distributed throughout the world. They were most liked by Europeans and Americans. Gradually, breeders began to develop new varieties. Initially, the flowering color was blue, bluish. Then new varieties were developed. Their color became violet, red, purple.

Important! Collectors and lovers of flower breeding liked the violet so much that new varieties are still being developed.

Now there are more than 30 thousand varieties. According to statistics, it is most popular in America. Residents of the country decorate their homes, offices, and flower beds with it.

Types and varieties

Wild or adapted for cultivation in natural conditions types

There are no strict qualifications yet. Main types street flower considered to be velvet, Grote and blue-colored Saintpaulia. All of them in appearance resemble the primitive violet that was found in Africa.

Velvet - has medium-sized leaves, 3-5 cm long, with jagged edges. Their surface is covered with a characteristic fluff, which gave the variety its name. The back side of the leaf is dark red or burgundy. The flowers are small (1-2 cm), their color is blue with a slight purple tint.

Grote is a bright type who immediately attracts attention. Its leaves are round and large (length 6-7 cm, width 5-8 cm). Their color is light green on both sides, the surface is smooth. Grote flowers are small in size, collected in lush clusters. Their color is unusual - lilac.

Blue-colored - has large leaves, the length of which reaches 8-9 cm. The flowers are medium in size, 3-4 cm in diameter. The color of the leaves is dark green, the shape is heart-shaped. Stems slightly shortened. Saintpaulia of this type has a rich purple color with a pronounced bluish tint.

Indoor

Home flowerpots of this type are usually called Pansies. They are distinguished by color - single and multi-colored. They all have their characteristics. Typical single-color indoor Saintpaulias include varieties - Blue Teal Fly, Gillian, Pink Sensation. With polycolor – EK-Music of Rain, Chimpansy, Queen Sabrina. These are the basic varieties that are in greatest demand.

Blue Tail Fly is characterized by its bright blue flowers petals. The color is rich, clean, and attracts attention. The leaves are small, rounded, and have a fleecy surface. At first glance, Gillian resembles a miniature copy of a carnation. The petals, like the leaves of this variety, are relatively large, the stems are shortened. Pink Sensation has its own peculiarity. The shape of its petals resembles the outline of a star. The color is unusual - white-pinkish.

EK-Music of Rain – very beautiful domestic variety. It is white or flesh-colored, with bluish stripes clearly visible along the petals, and a lilac outline along the edges. Chimpansi has small leaves with deep green tint. The border of the flowers is white and the petals are pink with small blue drops. Queen Sabrina is a striped variety. The color of the petals has a bright purple hue. The leaves are dark green, small and fleecy.

Important! Properly placed indoor flowerpots complement the interior, its style and add coziness. The varieties are combined with each other, creating a festive atmosphere in apartments and houses.

Violets at home

Location and lighting

These indoor plants are placed on window sills, shelves, and furniture sets. The main condition is bright light, but it does not like the influence of direct sunlight. In insufficient light it blooms poorly, 3-4 times a year. If it is abundant, yellow burns appear on the petals and leaves, which negatively affects the appearance.

To understand whether Pansies have enough light, you need to look closely at it. If the lighting is too bright and saturated, the leaves seem to hide from it and rise to the top. Then they stretch along, parallel to the vertical stems. When there is not enough light, the leaves “fall out” of the pots, trying to catch the deficiency as much as possible.

To achieve the desired flowering, Pansies need to receive proper light for at least 9-11 hours per day. That is, it is correct to place them on the sunny side of the house, but slightly in the shade.

Feeding and watering

Fresh soil has a sufficient amount of microelements for nutrition. But only certain time– approximately 1.5 – 2 months. After this, it needs to be additionally fertilized so that Pansies do not lose their viability. Young Saintpaulias that have not yet bloomed must be treated with special nitrogen-based products. Those that are about to bloom need phosphorus and potassium. For watering Pansies use the following methods:

  • through the pallet;
  • immersion;
  • drip.

The height of the tray should be 3-4 cm, and the diameter should be 2-3 cm larger than the diameter of the pot. Use clean, settled water for irrigation room temperature. Fill the tray halfway with it. Then they put the pot there. For the soil to become saturated with moisture, you need to wait about 20-30 minutes. Then the tray with water is removed.

The immersion method is a little similar to the previous one. Here, instead of a pallet, they use a container that is larger in diameter and height than the pot. At home, an ordinary household basin is suitable for this. Water is poured into it (3/4 full), allowed to settle and reach the desired temperature, then the pot is immersed. They take it out in 40-50 minutes. The water should drain. This method of watering is usually used during severe drought, when the house is too hot.

The drip method is optimal for Pansies and convenient for the owner. For watering, use a special watering can with a narrow spout, a syringe (100 ml capacity) or a regular syringe. The soil is saturated with moisture, gradually, drop by drop. Watering lasts about 10 minutes. The water that has flowed into the pan under the pot is drained.

Attention! You need to water in such a way that moisture does not fall on the leaves and petals. This way it is possible to protect it from infection by fungus and mold.

Trimming

In order for Pansies not to grow too much, but to have a beautiful, neat appearance, they need additional care. Pruning is done using scissors special purpose. The procedure does not take much time. When pruning, remove damaged leaves, excess shoots, faded old tops, as well as those parts that have lost their appearance vitality(withered, dried out, turned black, etc.).

This treatment has several advantages. It stimulates the growth of new leaves and flowering, and also protects it from disease infection. If the trunk is very exposed during pruning, it is covered with new soil, and a little fresh soil is added to the container.

The cleanliness of scissors must be carefully monitored. They need to be washed with warm water after processing each flowerpot. In this way, disease transmission from one plant to another can be avoided.

Humidity and temperature

At home, under normal microclimate conditions, pansies will bloom well, and you don’t need to take special care of them. Optimal air humidity is 50-65%, temperature is 22-24 C. A few recommendations for maintaining a normal microclimate:

  1. It is better to place the container with Saintpaulia in a tray filled with slightly damp expanded clay or pebbles.
  2. Make sure that the flowerpot is not blown with cold air from the windows, but when heating season– hot and dry due to the operation of radiators (if Pansies are on the windowsill).
  3. Install an air humidifier near the pots (equipment type - room).

Important! Some housewives spray the leaves with water using a sprayer in order to saturate it with moisture. This should not be done, especially when the room temperature is low. Leaves and petals moistened in this way quickly become infected with fungal microorganisms, rot and are not restored to their former healthy appearance.

Soil for violets

The soil in containers should be moderately moist. The soil needs to be loosened from time to time, then it will be saturated with oxygen. An important indicator For soil there is acidity. It should be between 6.3 -6.5 pH. If the soil is not sufficiently or too acidic, it will negatively affect the health of Saintpaulia. They stop receiving vital microelements from the soil, such as phosphorus, zinc, nitrogen, and iron.

To maintain the good appearance of Saintpaulia, as well as to prevent its infection by various fungi and bacteria, the soil must be fed with macroelements. There are quite a lot of ready-made special means for cultivating the soil, which can be found in almost any flower shop. Each manufacturer gives detailed instructions on their application. It should be strictly adhered to.

Attention! Saintpaulias are planted in small containers. The soil in them is depleted quite quickly. Therefore, it is advisable to replant them 3-4 times a year.

Propagation of violets

They are bred at home using several popular and simple methods. These include leaf, stepson, baby and seed. Each of them is held at a certain time.

Propagation by the leaf method is used in the spring, during the active growing season. Perfect time– mid-April – end of May. The first row of sockets is not touched. From the second, a healthy medium-sized leaf with a petiole length of 2 to 3.5 cm is cut out. The procedure is carried out with special scissors, carefully, without damaging the stems. The petiole of the cut leaf is rooted in fresh soil or water.

The stepson propagation method involves rooting a shoot, previously removed from the leaf axil, in a pot of soil. Next, the container is covered with film. This creates a greenhouse effect. After several stepsons grow up, one is left in a container, and the rest are placed one by one in other vessels.

Another method of propagation is to remove and plant the babies separately. These are shoots that have their own root system. Babies can appear already in the first month of the life of the flowerpot itself. To separate them from the “mother”, you need to wait a little for them to increase in size and strengthen. The children are cut off with special scissors and transplanted into a separate vessel with fertilized soil.

The seed method is considered one of the simplest. To plant Saintpaulia, prepare the soil - loosen it, fertilize it, and moisten it. Seeds are collected independently (if you are experienced or have knowledge) or bought in flower shops. It is correct to grow them in special containers. Seeds germinate in approximately 2-3 weeks. Then they wait another 10-14 days for everything to get stronger, and they are transplanted into separate vessels.

Conditions necessary for flowering

So, in order for the flowerpot at home to always maintain an attractive appearance, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

  1. Set the optimal microclimate (temperature, air humidity, absence of drafts and direct sunlight).
  2. Constant fertilizer (the soil needs to be fed with microelements and treated with bactericidal agents).
  3. Correct selection of the pot (it is allowed to use a ceramic or plastic container of small diameter and height).
  4. Replanting the plant as it grows.

Pansies love attention and careful care. If you follow these recommendations, there should be no problems with flowering in the flowerpot. It will delight the eye throughout the year.

Violet and its transplantation

There are several reasons why the plant should be moved to another, larger pot. These include poor growth, exposed stems, an increase in the size of the root system, and the appearance of white salt residues on the surface of the earth. Young flowerpots are transplanted into larger pots. For adults, leave the diameter of the container the same and change the soil.

Transplantation is carried out in two ways. The first is to remove it from the pot without touching the roots. A small part of the soil remains on them. A layer of soil is placed at the bottom of the new pot, then the plant itself is carefully placed, and then sprinkled with substrate again. Then they water it and put it in its place. The second method of replanting is to take the violet out of the old pot and carefully sort it out, removing any remaining soil. Then place the Saintpaulia in a new pot with fresh, loose, moist soil.

Attention! You should not replant the flowerpot while it is blooming. During this period, he does not like any changes and is susceptible to various diseases.

Common growing problems

Even with constant care, various incidents arise. If Pansies wither, rot or dry out, the problem may lie in watering. Proper cultivation involves the use of high-quality water. It needs to be left for several hours or passed through a filter. Regular tap water is suitable for irrigation. Its temperature should be 20-25 C. Pansies die with intensive or insufficient watering. Therefore, after moistening, it is necessary to observe how the soil absorbs moisture.

Another growing problem is the contact of leaves and flowers with other flowerpots or objects (walls, windows, etc.). The plant needs space. When in contact with other objects, the leaves curl and Saintpaulia does not receive enough useful substances. You should not place pots with plants on narrow window sills and shelves. Between flowerpots it is necessary to provide optimal distance(30-40 cm).

Why violet does not grow reasons

The most common problem in the growth of Saintpaulia is the rapid depletion of soil or its poor quality. Reasons that influence this:

  • low or heat air - below 15 C or more than 27 C;
  • large pot;
  • there is no replenishment (especially nitrogen).

The quality of the soil greatly affects the growth and development of the flower. Do not collect soil in industrial areas or places with contaminated soil. Also, soil taken (sprinkled) from other flowerpots is not suitable for the flower.

It is important to know! The soil should contain an optimal amount of sand or expanded clay, vermiculite, and sphagnum. For growing, it is better to take soil from the forest or buy it in flower shops. The second option is better - since the soil goes through several stages of cleaning and replenishment in advance.

Violets dry out, leaves and their tips turn yellow. Causes and their elimination

Several factors influence the loss of attractive appearance of Pansies. The flowerpot dries out if the soil lacks phosphorus. To eliminate this deficiency, the soil must be saturated with this microelement. Flower shops provide wide choose phosphorus-based products for soil under violets.

Another negative factor is direct sunlight hitting the flowerpot. Not all housewives may notice this, since they usually pay attention to the flower in the morning or evening. You need to select one sunny day and observe the flower, how it is illuminated. If there is a period when the rays directly hit the flowering or leaves, it is better to rearrange it.

Attention! The soil must not be allowed to harden. The soil needs to be constantly loosened. For this there is special tools. Hardened soil is quickly depleted and prevents the plant's roots from absorbing vital components.

Indoor violets - diseases and pests. Treatment

Pansies - tender plant, sensitive to various negative factors. Most often she suffers due to illiterate care. Symptoms of the development of violet disease are poor elasticity of leaves (the appearance of cracks, wrinkles, scratches), blackening of flowers, disruption of natural color, rotting roots. Treatment is as follows:

  • treating the plant with special-purpose agents (antifungal, antiseptic, disinfectant, etc.);
  • reducing the frequency of watering (intensity remains the same);
  • removing the infected pot from other pots;
  • cutting off diseased leaves;
  • removal of affected areas along with the soil;
  • transfer.

Important! Diseases of violets spread quickly and lead to the death of the plant. The fight against fungi and mites should begin at the first sign of infection.

In case indoor flower can no longer be treated, it must be disposed of along with the soil, and the pot must be washed well using antiseptic agents.

Conclusion

General recommendations on how to care for different types of violets at home are presented. Each plant has its own individual characteristics, so it deserves special attention. When it comes to care, the main thing is not to overdo it—do not over-water or fertilize. If you follow the rules for growing Saintpaulia, it is possible to create an entire greenhouse at home without special effort. Violets fit well into almost any type of interior and harmoniously complement the design. They are used as decoration for walls, windows, and balconies. For you, dear beginning flower growers, here is a video on the topic.

Saintpaulia or violet takes pride of place on windowsills. There is even a club of amateur flower growers who breed these lovely creatures. They grow hybrid specimens and organize exhibitions where they share their experience in caring for this plant at home. One species has thousands of varieties that are registered and still in cultivation.

Description of violets

Indoor violets are one of the most favorite indoor flowers among many plant growers. Due to the variety of colors and relative ease of care, these flowers are very popular.

According to the description, indoor violets are similar to each other, however, there are a number of differences. This mainly concerns the shades of inflorescences and the shape of leaves. The plant is rosette of leaves, a central stem that is missing.

Small flowers form in the middle; their shape can be simple or fancy. The color of the petals and leaves is varied. The rosette shape ranges from simple to very terry.

These lacy plants can decorate not only window sills, they can be used to create a composition and place them on kitchen apron or rack. If you follow the rules of care, the violet will decorate the most modest home.

Varieties and types of indoor violets







  1. Indoor hybrid violet by Wittrock. The flowers are large, 4 to 12 cm in diameter, solitary, formed in the axils of the leaves. Corolla 5-petalled, of various colors, from pure white to coal black, plain or with streaks and spots different colors and magnitude. Petals can be smooth, corrugated or with wavy edges.
  2. Winter violets Hiemalis with a flower diameter of 4.5-5.5 cm was registered in 1916, they are distinguished by winter hardiness, early and long flowering. They are distinguished by compact bushes and bright flowers.
  3. Golden yellow violet Helios.
  4. Violet Mars (Mars) ultramarine blue petals and dark “eyes”.
  5. Varieties of violets "North Pole" - with pure white flowers and even white seeds.
  6. "Jupiter" - with purple-violet lower petals and white upper petals.
  7. Rococo violets are plants with bright, variegated flowers with a diameter of 5.5 cm and highly corrugated petals. The variety has an exotic, unusual look, but, unfortunately, in Russian conditions, corrugation of the petals rarely appears.
  8. "Flamenco F1" (Flamenco Fj) - the variety has red-orange petals with blurred yellow spot and hatching in the center.
  9. “Tigereye” is a variety with an amazing color - brownish-yellow, with small dark spots in the center and shading throughout all the petals.
  10. Violet "Cardinal" - with a dark red flower and a darker "eye".

Caring for violets at home

If you want to place a violet in your home, then you need to know about its preferences and follow them. There are basic rules for caring for these flowers at home:

If you have not yet lost the desire to place a violet in your home, then get ready to welcome a new family member.

Composition of soil for indoor violets

Home care begins with preparing the substrate and container. Violet needs an acidic substrate, which includes the following components:

In winter, once a year, add a solution of humate; in the spring-autumn period, feed liquid mineral fertilizers for Saintpaulia. The main thing not to do is overfeed. Avoid overfeeding; the soil should be in a thin state.

Containers for transplantation

Every little detail is important when caring for indoor violets. To prevent the substrate from turning sour and spoiling the roots of the plant, you don’t need a lot of it. For example, for adult culture a glass is enough, whose height and diameter are 10 cm each. In addition, it is half filled with drainage.

Remember, for the violet to bloom you need to wait until root system will completely fill the pot with soil. For growing, the first container is taken with a diameter of 6 cm.

The drainage hole must be sufficient. Replanting is done no more than once every three years, but the pot can be left the same. Just be careful peel the roots as far as possible and change the substrate.

Reproduction and transplantation

Planting Saintpaulia begins with obtaining a young crop. Saintpaulia propagates as follows: leaves; cuttings; peduncles and seeds.

The simplest rooting method is often used - leaf rooting. Before rooting, the cut is renewed diagonally using disinfected scissors, then the cut of the leaf is sent into the water, where it remains until callus and roots form.

When roots 4-7 cm long appear on the leaf, it is being rooted. Cover the top with a jar or film to prevent evaporation and wait for the results. If everything went smoothly, the emerging plants are transplanted into separate pots as they grow. If provided good care, then the violets will bloom within a year.

Hybrid Saintpaulias - chimeras reproduce only stepsons and peduncles, it is they who will transmit maternal qualities to the young plant. The baby can be separated from the parent using an awl; it is rooted immediately in the peat substrate.

When a houseplant requires replanting, it is necessary to check the health of the root system. The roots must have White color , fill the container, then they are alive.

If you remove it from a conical pot, you need to preserve the root system that has taken this position and transplant it into a larger pot with a moistened substrate in a special cell.

Before planting Saintpaulia, you should carefully examine the root system and remove dead roots, they will turn brown.

Be careful not to damage the light, healthy roots. With such careful processing, the violet can be washed in water, after which the roots can be carefully straightened and planted in a new container.

In case of root system rot, the plant must be cleaned down to healthy living tissue, dipped in crushed activated carbon and dried. After this execution you need to do it again root in water or moss because it has disinfectant properties.

IN summer period the plant feels good when the room temperature is up to 25 degrees Celsius; in winter it requires 18-20. Air humidity should be at 50%.

This flower requires long daylight hours all year round. Lighting should be at least 10 hours; during flowering periods it is required additional fluorescent lighting.

If watering is carried out through a tray, it is necessary to drain the water that is not drunk by the plant. If watering is carried out from above, then you need to ensure that moisture does not get on the leaves. In summer watered every day little by little, in winter - 2 times a week. To young plant bloomed, you need to wait one year.

If you care for it correctly, you will be rewarded with a lush flowering plant. Indoor Saintpaulia blooms for about two months; during flowering it should remove faded flowers.

Features of care in winter

So that the violet does not die in winter, and this happens due to the lack proper care, you must adhere to certain rules:

Saintpaulia is Very beautiful plant . They are distinguished by a huge variety of textures and colors. If you follow the above rules for caring for indoor violets at home, then this gentle creature will often delight all household members with its blooming, radiant health.

Violets form a compact bush with flowers of different colors and shapes. Indoor violets belong to the Gesneriaceae family, not the Violet family. Many people know them under the name “Saintpaulia”.

Appearance, features and varieties

They bloom for a long time - up to ten months a year. They usually have a rest in the summer. The bush is a dense rosette of leaves. The leaves are dense, rounded, with dense pubescence. They grow from a short stem hidden by greenery, or directly from the root. The flowers are five-leaved and sit on long peduncles.

The violet blooms with the flowers of the most different forms and colors. Flowers can be double or simple, monochromatic or multi-colored. Often the color contains spots, specks, and edging in contrasting colors. Among violets there are varieties with coal-black expressive flowers.

The foliage is often monochromatic, dark or light. Hybrid variegated varieties look very beautiful - with spots, streaks, and edging in different shades. In total there are over 200 varieties. Therefore, growing violets at home turns into a real hobby for many.

A common feature of all types of violets is that the leaves are collected in a dense rosette. Otherwise they are very different:

  • flower shape - can be edged, fancy, classic, star-shaped. chimera violets stand apart;
  • petals - can be simple, semi-double or double;
  • flower color - single-color and multi-color varieties are distinguished;
  • leaf shape - there are varieties with round, oval, elongated leaves. edges may be smooth or jagged;
  • leaf color - light, dark or variegated (variegated);
  • size - miniature, microminiature and giant varieties are distinguished.

Almost all types require the same care. The exceptions are fantasy violets and chimeras. They are considered the most capricious and difficult to grow. In unsuitable conditions, the patterns on the petals and leaves simply disappear.

Usually mature blooming violets are sold in stores. Buying such a plant is not the best option. Most of the flowers on display are brought from other countries and grown exclusively for commercial purposes. After purchase, they will bloom for about two months, then gradually die. It is more reliable to buy cuttings, but flowering will begin only after a year and confusion with the variety is possible.

If you are buying an adult plant, inspect it carefully and ask the seller to provide you with Additional information. What you should pay attention to?

  • Age. Check with the seller about the country of origin of the violets. Do not buy a plant that is more than a year old. It is advisable that the violet be grown in the local climate.
  • Stem. It should not be visible in an adult healthy plant. Yellowing, lethargy of the stem, traces of fallen leaves are signs of an old or diseased plant.
  • Socket. The violet's rosette is symmetrical and dense.
  • Leaves. A healthy leaf is uniformly green, with the exception of variegated (variegated) varieties. Specks, spots, yellowing, plaque indicate disease.
  • Substrate. A grayish coating on the substrate indicates fungal diseases or lack of drainage, poor breathing of the root system.

If possible, it is best to avoid buying adults flowering plants. They very often die within just one or two months.

Acclimatization

Caring for violets after purchase is aimed at creating favorable conditions for rapid adaptation of the plant to a new microclimate. Compliance with all the recommendations below increases the likelihood of good violet survival.

  • Fungicide treatment. In the early stages fungal diseases almost invisible. They develop quickly and often lead to the death of the flower. Immediately after purchase, treat the violet systemic fungicide. The drug "Maxim" has proven itself well. It is diluted with water according to the instructions, and the flower is sprayed with a small spray bottle. After 15-20 minutes, the remaining moisture from the leaves is carefully removed with a paper napkin. The ground is watered with a solution of the Aktara insecticide.
  • Quarantine. The violet is isolated from other plants for two weeks. If possible, place it in an empty aquarium and cover it with glass or film. Condensation from the walls of the aquarium is removed daily.
  • Transfer. It is worth replanting a violet in two cases - the roots come out through the drainage hole and bad condition soil. They use the transshipment method (without destroying the old earthen coma), they try not to disturb the roots.

Very often people buy a lush flowering bush in the store, but at home it begins to wither. You can try to revive the indoor violet. Lower leaves removed, the rest of the socket is cut off. If the cut stem is green, there is a chance. Brown shade indicates stem rot. Such a plant cannot be saved. The rosette is rooted in water with the addition of activated carbon. Change the water as often as possible. After the roots appear, they are transplanted into the ground.

Basic rules of care

Violets are capricious in that they require the creation of favorable conditions. Otherwise, the flower easily rots and succumbs to attacks from pests. It is recommended to adhere to at least the basic rules of care.

  • Lighting. Lighting is moderate, without direct sunlight. Optimally - a north window plus artificial lighting. On the sunny side they are not placed on the windowsill, but slightly away from the window.
  • Temperature. In winter, the temperature is not allowed to drop below 16˚C. Favorable temperature in summer - 20-25˚С. The room is systematically ventilated, but cold drafts are not allowed to form. Temperature changes are undesirable. You should not take violets out onto the balcony even in warm weather.
  • Watering. You need to water violets taking into account the temperature and humidity of the air. Tap water is pre-settled. Preference is given to filtered or melt water. The average intervals between waterings are three to four days in winter, one to two days in summer.
  • Humidity. Maintain at 50–60%. To increase humidity, use any method other than spraying. Drops of moisture leave spots on the pubescent leaves of the violet.
  • Feeding. In winter, apply once organic fertilizer. In summer they do not feed; in spring and autumn they fertilize with mineral complexes no more than two or three times per season.
  • The soil. The soil needs to be nutritious and loose. You can buy a ready-made soil mixture or make it up from leaf soil, peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 5:3:1. Useful additives are no more than 10% activated carbon and a little crushed sphagnum.
  • Transfer. Violets are not often replanted - every three years. Annual replanting is allowed, but not encouraged - the plant's root system is very sensitive. You need to take care in advance about growing new plants to replace the old ones.

You need to properly care for your violet so that it blooms regularly and profusely. If the maintenance conditions are violated, flowering may not occur.

Wick irrigation system

It is not advisable to use standard methods glaze. Experts recommend wick watering of violets. A synthetic cord that absorbs water well is used as a wick.

Step-by-step instruction

  1. Make drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.
  2. Take a piece of cord about 20 cm long.
  3. Thread the cord through the hole and place it in a circle at the bottom of the pot. The diameter of the loop should be smaller than the diameter of the pot.
  4. Fill the pot with substrate.
  5. Place it in a tray up to 10 cm deep with a smaller diameter. The bottom of the pot should not touch the bottom of the tray.
  6. Water the soil until completely wet.
  7. Drain excess water from the pan.
  8. Plant the violet in the pot.

Periodically you need to add water to the pan. It will gradually rise up the cord, moistening the substrate until the desired state. To fertilize, add fertilizer directly to the water in the pan. Using the wick irrigation technique, it is possible to achieve stable soil moisture. If the soil is too wet, pull the cord out a few centimeters.

Lack of flowering and its stimulation

If the violet does not bloom, it means that the conditions of detention have been violated. The following care errors lead to a lack of flowering.

  • Poor lighting. You can determine the lack of light by the leaves raised up.
  • Short daylight hours. Every day the violet should be illuminated for at least 12 hours a day. During the dark season, additional lighting must be provided.
  • Lack of nutrition. It is best to use fertilizers designed specifically for violets. They can be found at any flower shop.
  • Incorrect watering. Flowering is negatively affected by watering with harsh and cold water, frequent or constant waterlogging of the soil.
  • Dense soil. In heavy soil, the root system develops poorly and has difficulty absorbing nutrients.
  • Big pot. In a spacious pot, the violet directs its forces to the development of roots and the growth of leaves. In close conditions - for flowering.
  • Pests or diseases. The lack of flowering can be caused by the initial stages of disease or pest attack.

As a stimulation, try feeding violets for abundant flowering, transplant the flower into a tighter pot, eliminate care errors. For prevention, treat with a fungicide and insecticide.

To keep the bush compact and maintain its decorative appearance, you need to trim the violet correctly. The rosette should consist of three to four rows of leaves. The lowest leaves usually look limp. They are carefully trimmed, trying not to damage the axillary buds.

Reproduction methods

The most common propagation of indoor violets is by leaves. There are other ways - by stepsons and seeds. The seed propagation method is ideal for growing a new variety.

From a sheet

Growing an indoor violet from a leaf is not difficult. Leaf cuttings take root quickly. From one leaf you can get several young plants at once. The sheet is taken from the middle row. Optimal time for reproduction - spring. The leaf is cut off along with a petiole up to 5 cm long. Rooted in water or soil.

  • Rooting in water. The cut of the petiole is immersed 1 cm in water. To prevent rotting of the stalk, add an activated carbon tablet to the water. It prevents the development of pathogenic microflora. The water is changed periodically. After the roots appear, they are transplanted into light soil. Water systematically and do not allow the substrate to dry out completely. After about a month, babies form at the base of the petiole.
  • Rooting in the soil. The leaf cuttings are planted in moist soil. Holes are made in polyethylene and the planting container with cuttings is covered with it. Maintains stable humidity.

Stepchildren

Violet stepsons are daughter rosettes in the form of a small shoot. It appears from the axils of the leaves. They spoil the appearance of the bush, so usually they are simply cut off. But you can pinch the tip of the process and wait a little.

When four to five leaves are formed on the stepson, it is carefully cut off and rooted in the ground. Rooting conditions are identical to leaf cuttings - perforated film, systematic moistening.

From seeds

Seed propagation takes longer, but allows you to immediately obtain a large number of plants. To propagate your violet, it is easier to root a leaf cutting. But growing a new variety is much more reliable than buying an adult violet in a store.

For planting, take low containers filled with loose soil. The seeds are not buried - they are simply scattered over the surface of a moistened substrate. The container is covered with film and white paper. Keep in a moderately warm room 17-21˚C, periodically ventilate the greenhouse.

The seeds germinate quickly and after two to three weeks they form true leaves. At this stage they are carefully transplanted into a larger container. Picked violets are grown under glass. Strengthened plants are planted in individual pots.

On a rooted leaf cutting, several small rosettes often form at once. They are not planted together. The bush will grow and become dense - crowded conditions are not good for violets. The babies are immediately seated, and the leaf is placed back into the soil - there is a chance that it will grow babies again.

Major diseases

Violet is not disease resistant. Any violation of maintenance conditions, proximity to a diseased plant or contaminated soil can lead to the development of diseases. It is possible to save a violet only with timely treatment. In the table you will find data on the most common diseases and methods of treating them.

Table - Common violet diseases and treatment methods

Name of the diseaseSymptomsTreatment methods
Fusarium- Root rotting;
- stem rotting;
- blackening of roots;
- brown spots on petioles;
- leaf fall
- Removing diseased leaves;
- treatment with “Fundazol”
Powdery mildew- Whitish coating;
- yellowing of leaves;
- drying of leaves
- Single treatment with Benlat
(If necessary, repeat after 10 days)
Late blight- Brown spots on leaves;
- root collar rot
- Late blight cannot be treated
Gray rot- Fluffy brown coating- Removing diseased leaves;
- fungicide treatment
Rust- Orange bumps on the leaves;
- rash of spores from the tubercles
- Treatment with Bordeaux mixture;
- treatment with sulfur dust
Vascular bacteriosis- Glazing of leaves;
- leaf dying
- Treatment with the preparations “Zircon”, “Previkur”, “Fundazol”

Typical pests

Pests move from diseased plants or may appear some time after purchasing violets. Their development is facilitated by a violation of the care regime - too dry or humid air, excessive or insufficient watering. You will find all the necessary information about pests and measures to combat them in the table.

Table - Common pests of violets and ways to combat them

Insect nameSigns of defeatWays to fight
Ticks- Browning of leaves;
- thin cobweb;
-leaf deformation
- Treatment with acaricides “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”
Shchitovka- Sticky discharge;
- small plaques
- Treatment with the drug "Agravertin"
Thrips- Holes on the petals;
- destruction of stamens;
- brown spots on the leaves
- Removal of diseased parts;
- treatment with insecticide "Inta-vir"
Nematodes- Microscopic worms on the roots;
- swelling on the roots;
- light spots on the leaves;
- rotting of leaves;
- lack of growth;
- lack of flowering
- Removal of affected parts;
- nematicide “Vidat”;
- transplant
Root mealybug- Sour smell;
- white lumps on the roots
- Transplantation;
- treatment of roots with the drug "Aktara"
Aphid- Curling of leaves;
- deformation of the petals;
- withering of buds;
- weak flowering;
- sticky coating
- Treatment with soap solution;
- “Mospilan”, “Aktellik”
Midges and mosquitoes- Rot of roots, leaves, stems;
- small flying insects
- Watering the soil with Karbafos
Whitefly- Shiny coating on the leaves;
- black plaque;
- light leaves;
- cessation of growth
- Combination of insecticides with acaricides

If treatment is started in a timely manner, the care regimen is normalized, and prevention is carried out, then the likelihood reappearance insects or diseases will be kept to a minimum.

Since caring for violets is not easy, before buying this plant, calculate your strength and time. Violet requires careful and attentive treatment.

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