Popularity of self-leveling floors in modern world everything is growing and gaining momentum. Today, many are interested in the question: is it possible to install a self-leveling floor on wooden floor? This is what we will discuss in this material. Today, self-leveling floors meet the following indicators:
Durability;
strength;
moisture resistance;
environmental materials and safety;
not exposed to fire and negative temperatures.
Having an impeccable appearance, self-leveling floors attract the attention of buyers. Absolutely any covering can be laid on top of such a floor. The self-leveling coating is not afraid of falling heavy objects, temperature changes, or aggressive chemicals. Latest methods decoration and design are constantly changing and expanding, an increasing number of colors, three-dimensional images are appearing, various inclusions and inlays are being added.
Today, the quality of self-leveling floors has changed compared to its predecessors. As an example, a 3D self-leveling floor can be presented, which is a decorative element with an exceptional design and three-dimensional images.
If laying a self-leveling mortar on a concrete floor today does not raise any questions, then pouring a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor immediately implies difficulties during installation. Since not everyone likes to dismantle a wooden floor, and if it was originally completely like that in the house, doubts immediately arise regarding the installation self-leveling coating. However, subject to certain conditions You can lay the self-leveling floor on wooden base The main criterion for the work is the condition of the coating, which must still meet good standards of use, and the mixture must be thinly poured so as not to greatly affect the change in ceiling heights.
Preparing a wooden base for pouring
Since pouring a self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat surface, the wooden base must be carefully prepared for this process. The wooden floor must be in good working order, not rotten, there should be no loose boards, everything is fastened firmly and securely.
At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove all baseboards from the room. Then carefully sand the floor with a scraper to remove the varnished or painted layer of the boards. After this you need to wipe grinder all the cracks that are almost always present on an old floor. Using putty, you need to cover and putty all the cracks and unevenness of the floor. And you need to wait until it dries completely. For the best adhesion of the mixture to the coating, it is necessary to sand the floor again using coarse sandpaper.
After cleaning the base, it must be freed from dust and degreased. The next stage of work is priming the floor, which guarantees good adhesion of the polyurethane solution to the wood. The main rule is that you need to do this at least twice. Particles of sifted quartz sand, which are included in the primer, create roughness in the wood, while increasing the degree of adhesion, including multidirectionality.
The main working tools for preparing wood and pouring a self-leveling floor are presented in the following list:
Nail puller, wooden wedges, and also a chisel;
machine or hand scraper;
Sander;
coarse sandpaper or emery;
industrial or household vacuum cleaner;
roller or brush for applying primer;
a flat brush or short-haired paint roller for even application of the polymer mixture;
needle roller to remove air when applying the solution;
squeegee or metal spatula;
construction mixer or drill with an attachment designed for polymer floors.
You will also need to use special clothing, glasses and, of course, spiked shoes, which are designed for walking on a flooded floor.
Self-leveling coating installation technology
What’s most interesting is that the technology for pouring self-leveling mortar onto a wooden surface is basically no different from applying it to a concrete base. The main differences are presented only in preparing the basis for these actions.
However, before you start pouring the floor in the house, you need to lay a mounting tape around the entire perimeter of the room. You will also need to install special beacons that help maintain a certain floor level.
You should buy a high-quality flooring mixture from a trusted supplier. Before use, you must carefully study the instructions for preparing the mixture, which are always on the product packaging. In order for everything to work out correctly, you must follow all its points very strictly.
Usually they take the dry mixture and pour it into a container where it needs to be kneaded. A large bucket from under water-based paint. Having poured the required amount of water, which is reflected in the instructions, you can begin mixing the solution with a mixer or drill with a special attachment. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, only then can it be laid out on the treated wooden floor. The main condition is that the mixture must be laid out starting from the farthest side of the room. towards the doors.
You need to level the mass to a thickness of 5 mm, and a spatula will help with this. This size is most optimal for rooms with wooden floors. To prevent air from collecting and to keep the surface smooth and even, go over the solution with a rubber needle roller. If necessary, you can move around the room only in spiked shoes. If you need to level the mixture in hard-to-reach places, a spatula is best. Since the coating is self-leveling, leveling basically occurs on its own, just as water spills over the floor.
Since the mixture solution hardens very quickly, batches must be prepared very quickly. The time interval between batches should be no more than 10 minutes. The optimal solution There will be two people making the floor, which allows one to pour the floor, and the other to prepare the next batch of mortar. But if this is not possible, then you need to pay attention Special attention pouring joints between batches must be handled with careful attention using a roller.
After completing work in the room, you must wait 15 minutes and then cover the floor with film. This is necessary to ensure that the surface remains glossy, free of dust and debris. After the floor has completely dried, when you can walk on it without fear, the final type of coating is applied. There is already enough imagination here. The floor can be like a three-dimensional polymer, varnish or other more standard options coverings. If you want a colored floor, then you can use colored dyes in its top layer. Upper layer will give the finished coating a glossy shine, and also improve strength and other characteristics. Experts do not recommend performing other work on outdoor floor within a week after its installation.
All work costs associated with coverage are individual for each person. Most often they depend on the quality of the mixture, its manufacturer, format decorative covering. For example, 3D floors with an individual exclusive design will cost much more than regular ones. Professionals charge a lot of money for their services. However, you can save money. The technology for installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not complicated, and everyone can independently add a “zest” to their home, decorating it depending on their tastes and preferences.
Experts recommend using only a solution based on polymer resins in residential areas. If the floor was poured in a room with high humidity, then you need to use epoxy type flooring. In all other rooms it is better to use polyurethane flooring.
Extend the life of a wooden floor country house possible using concrete screed. In this case, the surface will become smoother and more durable. In the future, it is possible to finish the floor with any material, for example, laminate, tiles or parquet.
The feasibility of concrete flooring on a wooden floor
Disputes continue regarding the advisability of using a concrete screed on a wooden floor. Many people say that concrete will make the structure heavier and, accordingly, the pressure on the foundation will increase. On the other hand, the fragility of the wooden base will lead to cracking concrete surface, deformation of the floor covering. There is also a high chance that the floor will be uneven. However, there are many facts in favor of concrete covering on a wood floor:
- Concrete screed on a wooden floor is poured using a separate technology, taking into account the characteristics of the wood base. Laying is carried out according to the principle of an unbound screed, which neutralizes the possibility of deformation.
- It is recommended to pour cement when leveling and strengthening the base for installing hard floor coverings is required.
- Concrete is ideal for installing heated floors.
To avoid possible negative consequences from the interaction of wood and concrete, you should strictly follow the recommendations for carrying out the work. An important step in the preparatory phase is priming wooden surface in order to provide sufficient moisture resistance. It is recommended to use durable polyethylene film without defects as waterproofing. Its individual parts must be overlapped. To obtain a flat surface, beacons must be installed before pouring. The thickness of the concrete layer should not exceed 5 cm.
Since concrete itself is a massive and heavy material, which can lead to subsidence of the screed on a wooden base or fracture in weak points floors, it is recommended to add plasticizers to masonry mixture. These additives give the solution sufficient fluidity, ductility, strength, water resistance, and the screed does not collapse for a long time even under high loads.
Execution technology
Scheme of a concrete screed for a wooden floor. A screed on a wooden base is created to increase the strength of the boundary between wood and concrete. To prevent cement and wood from coming into contact and affecting each other’s quality, the concrete layer is cut off from the walls of the room with a damper tape, and from the wooden base - with polyethylene. This arrangement principle allows you to save concrete from cracking and destruction due to changes in the underlying foundation. Screeds laid on wooden floors have some features:
- the pouring mass should ensure a tight fit of the concrete to the floor;
- the cement should not come into contact with the wood (a layer of film is enough to prevent interaction);
- It is forbidden to pour the cement mixture directly onto the wooden surface;
- It is imperative to equip a high-quality waterproofing layer.
It is possible to pour a concrete screed onto a wooden surface only after calculations and preparatory work.
Calculations
Before you start arranging the floors, you should make a calculation. When using ready-made sand- cement mixture the amount of material is determined on the basis that 1 cm of layer is obtained from 15 kg/m2 of mixture, but a margin of 10% is needed.
To prepare concrete solutions with my own hands, you should buy material taking into account the proportion 1: 2: 3 (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel) or 1: 6 (cement, a mixture of crushed stone and sand). Required amount material is calculated from the formula of multiplying the surface area of the room and the required thickness of the screed.
Preparing the base
Preparing a wooden floor for screeding. First of all, the board covering is carefully inspected. If there are damaged ones, they should be replaced, and partially destroyed ones can be turned over. The boards are secured back with nails. When installing logs in increments of more than 40 cm, it is recommended to additionally use support bars. To prevent the nails from tearing the plastic film in the future, their heads are sunk into the boards to a depth of 2-3 mm.
Old skirting boards need to be removed. It is recommended to seal the cracks that appear at the junction of the floor and wall with thin layers. wooden planks. After filling they will need to be removed. This will ensure natural ventilation of the wooden base and prevent it from rotting.
If wooden base has small cracks; for sealing use sealant or parquet putty on wood dust. For self-cooking For putty, take 4 volumes of sawdust and 1 part of oil paint.
If the cracks are deeper, it is better to resort to polyurethane foam.
Primer and marking
After preparatory treatment of the base, it is cleaned from dust and debris. If necessary, the boards are sanded. A primer is applied to the cleaned surface. This processing will create protective layer, preventing the appearance of bubbles, the absorption of moisture from the cement mixture, the appearance of fungus and mold.
Marking is carried out in the usual way or laser level. The zero mark can be at any height. It is recommended to place several marks on each wall at a distance of 35 to 70 cm from the floor, taking into account the thickness of the future screed. Then the marking is carried out in the reverse order - from points on the wall to the floor. In both cases, a line is drawn using a level. The level of future leveling is determined by subtracting the thickness of the screed from the minimum measurement.
It is important to consider that standard thickness the screed should be ±5 cm. Moreover, every 1 cm of concrete exerts a pressure of 100-110 kg/m2. Therefore, the logs need to be reinforced with beams or metal channels.
Reinforcement
The most popular two methods of reinforcement are: metal mesh and fiber fiber:
- The arrangement technology is carried out using an unconventional method. A layer of concrete without beacons is immediately poured. A break of 1 month is taken for hardening. Then the mesh is laid, beacons are installed and the second layer is poured. This technology avoids unwanted punctures of the waterproofing film.
- Fiber reinforcement differs from the above method. Strengthening material is added directly to concrete mortar at the stage of its preparation. The peculiarity of fiber fiber: its molecules are located in a chaotic order, therefore, when interacting with the molecules of the cement mixture, the material is strengthened in all directions. The use of fiberglass significantly reduces the overall weight of the concrete covering, therefore reducing the pressure on the wooden flooring.
The 21st century is the time that made self-leveling floors on a wooden base so popular and in demand both in residential premises and in modern offices. Today, self-leveling floors on wooden floors are not just a covering, but also an excellent decorative solution, especially if 3D imaging technology is shared. Such floor coverings have many advantages and decent performance characteristics, as well as quite affordable prices. Few people know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor with their own hands, but it is not as difficult as it might seem at first. This guide will help you make a self-leveling floor on planks.
What types of self-leveling floors are there on a wooden base?
Self-leveling flooring on a wooden base is not just one solution, but a whole category of materials that are applied to concrete or wood (as in in this case) basis. Self-leveling floors on wooden floors can be divided into:
- Polyurethane. A durable polymer floor that is resistant to prolonged exposure, which is ideally suited for arranging flooring in places with a large number of people.
- Epoxy. These are self-leveling floors on a wooden floor that do not react in any way to moisture. It is recommended to install such floors in damp areas, especially in the bathroom and kitchen.
- Epoxy-urethane. A type of polymer floor that has good performance strength and wear resistance. Can be used as an alternative to polyurethane coating.
- Methyl methacrylate. Polymer floor with excellent thermal insulation properties, is often used for arranging floors in rooms without heating or with poor heating during the cold season.
Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring on a wooden floor can be one-component or two-component. The first type is often used as the basis for installing parquet, stone, tiles or other decorative coverings. Two-component coatings often contain a three-dimensional image, which gives the floor a creative and unusual look. appearance. Next we will figure out whether it is possible to make a 3D floor on a wooden floor and how to do it.
The main advantages of self-leveling floors on a wooden base
A poured floor on a wooden floor is a solution that has gained its popularity not only due to its appearance, but also because of its good technical characteristics and numerous advantages. They can be found below:
- High resistance to prolonged mechanical stress, resistance to wear and abrasion.
- Excellent impact resistance chemical substances– wood-look self-leveling floors will withstand even acids.
- Wide range of available color solutions, design styles, patterns and textures, images.
- Excellent sound and heat insulation properties - creative self-leveling wooden floors are quiet and warm!
- High strength, reliability, long term using a coating that will last for decades.
- The presence of antistatic properties, thanks to which the self-leveling wooden floor is quite easy to clean.
- Absolute seamlessness - this simplifies the process of maintaining the floors and prevents squeaks from the coating.
You can notice that the self-leveling floor in wooden house is not only modern and beautiful, but also practical solution, which can delight the inhabitants of the home for many years. In addition, such a coating can be equipped on its own. We will learn how to fill a wooden floor with self-leveling flooring, what tools and building materials are needed for this.
What tools are needed to install the floor?
Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring for wooden bases requires the use of a wide range of tools, devices and materials that must be prepared before starting work. You should definitely have on hand:
- A special mixture for self-leveling flooring is the basis of the future floor covering.
- Long spatula, needle roller (necessary for removing air bubbles).
- A construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment if you don’t have a mixer.
- Laser or ordinary building level, aluminum rule.
- A container of at least 20 liters, a set of construction beacons and wooden blocks.
- Alabaster, mortar, water in sufficient quantity for the mixture.
- Triangular scraper, screwdriver, screws, dowels, long ruler.
It also helps to wear special clothing - protective gloves, an eye and face mask, as well as shoes designed for walking on painted surfaces (paint shoes). After preparing the necessary arsenal, you can begin.
Preparing the base for a polymer floor
Is it possible to pour self-leveling floors on a wooden floor? Yes, sometimes craftsmen do not ask themselves whether it is possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and apply the solution directly to the old coating. However, even in this case, it is necessary to carefully prepare the wood base - it should be sanded well so that the surface becomes rough. This will significantly improve the adhesion of the floor to the layers of polymer coating. It is also worth making sure that there are no traces of grease, dirt, oil and other contaminants on the wooden floor surface - they are removed with a solvent.
Is it possible to apply self-leveling flooring to a wooden floor if it creaks? No - otherwise the final coating will lie unevenly and cause a lot of problems. To avoid trouble, you also need to check the floor. All boards must be securely fastened to correct position, the floor itself is smooth, without unevenness or defects. Also, before applying the polymer floor, you will need to remove all paint from the surface of the base, if there is any.
Before making self-leveling floors in a wooden house, you need to do a little preparation of the coating:
- Remove all baseboards and close the holes created by removing the baseboards.
- Seal all cracks, chips and uneven areas on the floor surface with mortar.
Now you can begin actions that will ultimately lead you to completing the installation of the self-leveling floor.
Level the surface and install beacons for the floor
In order for the floor to be as level as possible, you need to take care of it initial stages. So, before pouring the solution, draw a line along the entire length of the room, then place self-tapping screws along it, the distance between which is 30 centimeters. Using a laser level, you will need to find the highest point located on the wooden base for the polymer floor. After detection, you need to add about 5-6 mm (the thickness of the floor layer) and align the screws at the same level. It's still too early to do 3D flooring on wood floors.
The next stage, which continues the installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, is the placement of beacons. They must be placed on previously installed screws, securely fastened using mortar. After this, you should prepare a solution for the self-leveling floor - to do this, the contents of the package must be mixed in a container with water according to the instructions indicated on the package, then stir until smooth. construction mixer.
Let's start pouring the mortar for the self-leveling floor onto the wood
We already know whether it is possible to use a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The solution prepared in advance should be carefully poured onto the prepared base, covering an area of about 2 square meters at a time. meters. The layer must be leveled along the beacons using a long spatula. When the formation of the layer is completed, you will need to remove all air bubbles on the surface of the coating - this is very important stage, on which the further fate of the entire result depends. Wait until the floor is completely dry.
Now you know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor - video instructions on the Internet will help you see what the process looks like visually, which will give you a better understanding of the essence of the technology. The prepared coating can be used as a basis for application decorative materials, or left as an independent gender.
Installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base with your own hands raises questions for many. Is it possible? How to do it? What is better to use as a base - plywood, chipboard, OSB or just boards? You will find all the answers you need in our article.
Self-leveling mixtures are compositions of cement or gypsum binder, mineral fillers and modifying polymer additives that improve basic characteristics composition (curing speed, bending strength, compression, etc.).
Manufacturers usually indicate on the label that the mixtures are intended for leveling and repairing mineral-type substrates. These are cement-sand, anhydrite and other types of screeds, concrete plates, underlying layers of crushed stone, slag, sand, bulk and natural soils(compacted).
How can you find out which compositions can be used on chipboard and OSB boards, wood and plywood? To do this, just look at the instructions. In the description of cement and cement-gypsum self-leveling floors, these categories must be indicated among the bases.
For wooden and sheet surfaces, the compositions are applied in a layer of 3 to 7 cm. Do not confuse with thin-layer gypsum and gypsum-cement levelers, the layer thickness of which does not exceed 0.2-3 cm.
Since wood and its derivatives (plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, OSB, HDF) have high coefficient seasonal changes linear dimensions, manufacturers strongly recommend using separation layers (geotextile, PE film) plus a damper around the perimeter. Simply put, create a “floating” type floor.
How to choose the right multicomponent mixture? See the composition. According to the established rule, in complex formulations the component that is in greater quantity is indicated first. For example, a cement-gypsum self-leveling floor contains more than 50% Portland cement and less than 30% gypsum. Although the best option professionals consider purely cement compositions. The fact is that their strength is much higher than that of their analogues; accordingly, it is possible to make a more durable and reliable self-leveling floor on a wooden base.
So, is it possible to level a base made of boards, chipboard, OSB with your own hands using ready-made compositions? The answer is yes, but with some caveats:
- When choosing a mixture, carefully read the instructions, in particular the sections “Composition” and “Types of bases”.
- Create a floating floor using plastic film and damper tape. As a last resort, carefully treat the base with waterproofing compounds (locking primers, impregnators, mastics).
Do-it-yourself technology for installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base
To fill the mixture you will need the following set of tools and materials:
- Belt, planetary (surface grinding) and/or angle grinding machine. It is better to rent professional series devices for 1-2 days. They are more powerful and operate in several modes;
- Fine-grained sandpaper for finishing sanding (from 180 to 600 units), as well as a belt or attachments for a sander (grain size - from 80 units);
- Plastic or wooden grater for sanding paper, hand scraper for small jobs;
- Construction vacuum cleaner;
- Hammer and nail puller;
- Sealant or repair putty for filling cracks and gaps;
- Waterproofing compounds or polyethylene film thickness from 150 microns;
- Damper tape;
- Roller or coating for applying coating waterproofing;
- Wide spatula or squeegee;
- Plastic bucket or container for mixing the solution;
- Construction mixer or drill with attachment;
- Point beacons, laser level or water level;
- Needle roller for rolling the mixture;
- Paint shoes, gloves.
To prevent your hands from getting tired too quickly, choose tools with ergonomic, rubberized handles. They are easy to use and do not slip.
Self-leveling flooring on plywood, chipboard or OSB board must be done in 3 stages.
Stage 1. Wood surface preparation
When working, you must be guided by SP 29.13330.2011. Normative act requires rolling stock to be poured onto a level (!), strong and dry base. That is, without oil stains, paint and varnish materials, bitumen and other defects.
First, inspect the floor. It must be in good condition: without rot, mold stains, paint residues, varnish, blackness, chips, “playing” boards. Floorboard, OSB and chipboard should be checked for differences between sheets or planks, gaps, and squeaks.
Removing old paintwork
For painted surfaces, use removers of old paintwork materials. Or use a hand grater or scraper to carefully remove the coating. This will create a fairly rough base on which the waterproofing material will “lay down” well and will not slip.
The simplest and effective way preparation - grinding the entire surface with a planetary or belt unit. Corundum or diamond abrasive will perfectly remove all protruding irregularities (slabs, drops) and severe contamination. Manufacturers and technologists strongly recommend not skipping the stage of carefully leveling the surface for pouring. This is necessary in order to create a single, monolithic cement sheet of the same thickness over the entire area, and therefore identical strength, without weak areas.
For the same purpose, holes, potholes, chips and crevices are filled. elastic sealant on wood, putty compounds. Professional repairmen devote a lot of time to this, because they know: when rolling the solution, the needle roller very often simply “rips” the solution out of the recesses. Because of this, the frozen surface turns out uneven. Instead of putties, you can use a simpler option - sawdust mixed with PVA glue.
Laying plywood on dried boards.
Walk along the floor and mark where you need to further secure the base with screws or nails. Be sure to check each slab or floorboard. The minimum interval between fastenings is 40-50 cm.
If the boards are dry or too damaged, you can additionally sew chipboard or plywood with a thickness of at least 14 mm on top. And to avoid squeaking between the sheets, pour finely crushed chalk into the gaps.
Do not forget to first remove the skirting boards, as well as protruding metal elements or hardware. “Down” all fasteners with a hammer 0.5 cm into the floor. After finishing work, take a walk construction vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth to remove dust and small sawdust.
Formation of a separating layer of polyethylene.
The next step is the formation of a separating waterproofing layer and its careful fixation. The film is spread over the entire surface with an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls. If strips are used, they are overlapped by 8-12 cm.
Instead of polyethylene, it is allowed to use waterproofing compounds. And this must be done without fail. Wood and its derivatives do not like moisture; there is a risk of rotten areas forming under the ready-made filling composition. In addition, untreated wood tends to “pull” water from the solution. As a result, the cement binder will not have enough liquid to mature and gain full strength, and the floor will turn out to be loose, weak, with pits and tubercles.
It is known that cement and wood have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, to prevent the finished base from cracking or damaging the walls in the future, be sure to glue damper tape around the perimeter. Can be replaced with isolon (NPE) cut into narrow strips with a thickness of 1-2 mm.
Stage 2. Preparation of bulk solution
Pour clean, free water at a temperature of +5 to +25 °C into the container. Carefully add the dry component and mix with a construction mixer for 5-7 minutes at a speed of up to 500 rpm. The composition should be homogeneous, without lumps or separations.
Let the solution mature for 5-10 minutes, then stir again. The pot life of the solution is always indicated on the label. This is the time during which the mixture should be used. On average it is 20-60 minutes.
Stage 3. Pouring a self-leveling self-leveling floor
If necessary, mark the required level of the new cement layer on the walls or place benchmarks along the base.
Pouring a self-leveling self-leveling floor.
Carefully pour the mixture onto the surface. Start from the far corner, gradually moving towards the exit. Spread the solution with a spatula or squeegee and roll it with a needle roller to deaerate and compact the composition. After 7-14 days, the new flat floor will be ready for laying tiles, porcelain stoneware and other finishing floor coverings.
To summarize, we note: it does not matter whether the base is plywood or chipboard, HDF or OSB, boards or concrete. What is important is proper preparation, namely the formation of a smooth, hard and dry base.
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Quite often during repairs in Lately self-leveling floor systems are used, which are durable, wear-resistant and durable. Among their positive qualities are safety and environmental friendliness. Since the creation of such coatings, significant technical changes have occurred. For example, they are presented in a wide range color scheme, which is especially true. With their help, you can create real masterpieces of design.
Can wood be used as a base?
Quite often, craftsmen ask the question of whether it is possible to install a self-leveling floor on wooden floor. The answer is yes, but before laying such a coating, it is necessary to analyze the rough base and determine whether it requires preparation. Realize installation work on wood is necessary only if it is well preserved, and it is recommended to use a thin mixture for arranging the finishing surface, which will not be able to increase the height significantly.
Preparatory work
The self-leveling can be installed not only on the type of rough foundation described above, but also on concrete. Before pouring, any surface must be prepared; the first step is to remove the baseboards and remove the fastenings from the walls. Then the master scrapes the surface; for this you should use the appropriate equipment. If the room has a small area, then it will be possible to cope with the help of a manual cycle. On next stage it is necessary to hide the cracks using an encryption machine. Such errors during operation in any case appear on wooden covering. The resulting irregularities and crevices are treated with putty, which after application is left to dry completely. Then the surface should be sanded with coarse sandpaper, which will improve the quality of adhesion.
The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will last a long time if the base is cleaned of dust after sanding. It is most effective to use for this. Before priming, the base is degreased. The primer is necessary to increase the adhesion strength of the material to the wood. The composition is applied in two layers; before carrying out work, you can add sifted quartz sand. This will ensure the most reliable adhesion between polymer coating and the basis.
Preparing tools
If you are wondering whether self-leveling floors can be applied to a wooden floor, then the answer will be clear. Such work is carried out quite often today. It is important to properly prepare the surface and ensure that you have the appropriate tools. To dismantle the baseboards you will need wooden wedges, a nail puller and a chisel, but to process the wood you need to prepare scraping machine and a grinding device. The final preparation of the surface can be done using coarse-grained sandpaper, clean the base will allow industrial vacuum cleaner. To apply the primer to the surface, you will need a brush or roller. Quite often these instruments are used in tandem, since not all hard to reach places can be processed with a roller. A short-haired roller and a flat brush will allow you to distribute most effectively. The craftsman will need a spatula and a squeegee. You can mix the solution for installing a self-leveling floor using a construction mixer or a drill. It is best to pour a self-leveling floor on a wooden base while wearing special clothing, wearing safety glasses, a respirator and gloves. To move on the surface you will need special soles with spikes. This will allow the master to move around the freshly laid layer.
Work technology
Laying a polymer floor on a wooden floor is no different from the procedure that involves using concrete as a base. The only difference is preparatory stage, which was discussed in more detail above. Before pouring the self-leveling floor, you should prepare the solution using the instructions. The dry mixture should be mixed with water until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting solution is laid out on the base, and it is necessary to advance from the far corner of the room.
The self-leveling floor is poured onto a wooden floor, then leveled using a spatula until it is possible to achieve required thickness layer. If we are talking about a wooden covering, then the thickness should be five millimeters or more. As the most optimal and convenient tool a needle roller acts to level and combat bubbles. The intervals between pouring batches should not be more than 10 minutes, otherwise the joints will be clearly visible. But even in this case, the connection of the mortar strips must be carefully rolled with a roller. As soon as the pouring is completed, you should cover the curing surface with film; this must be done 15 minutes after completion of the work. This will prevent dust from settling. After applying the base layer and its hardening, you can begin to apply finishing coating, its role can be varnish or polymer.
Cost of work from specialists
The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will hold quite firmly if you follow the instructions provided. This process can be called quite simple, and you can do it yourself. But if financial capabilities allow, it is recommended to hire a team of specialists who guarantee high quality executions, carry out installation according to technology, and also provide a guarantee for the work done. As a rule, specialists use expensive Building tools. All this adds up to the cost of preparatory, priming work and manipulations for pouring the mixture. In one square meter to prepare a wooden base you will have to pay 400 rubles, while applying a primer costs 200 rubles. per one square meter. Specialists fill the surface with quick-drying liquid compounds for 400 rubles. per one square meter.
If you want to make renovations in a residential area, it is recommended to choose mixtures based on polymer resins. If there are places high humidity, then they should use epoxy filler, while polyurethane flooring is suitable for the rest of the house. If you are wondering whether it is possible to pour a self-leveling floor, a wooden floor can be an excellent base. If there is a plank covering, it should be repaired and the peeling floorboards replaced. The fasteners are tightened, the cracks are filled with sealant or the latter is mixed with an equal volume of sawdust. Waterproofing should be laid on the wooden base. Do not neglect the need to apply a primer, two layers of which will facilitate the main work and increase the strength of the coating.
Secrets of using finishing mixtures
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will look very good if the rough base does not have rough relief flaws. It is advisable to exclude them, since the thickness of the laid layer does not exceed 5 millimeters. Even though the bumps and depressions can be smoothed out by a leveling compound, there is a strong argument for eliminating the defects. Self-leveling floors will harden unevenly, and the strength indicator will vary.
It is also important to choose the right dry composition, the ingredients of which will determine the purpose of the future floor. For example, if the mixture contains cement as a binder, then this the composition is suitable for filling floors in bathrooms, kitchens, showers and bathrooms. If we are talking about mixtures with gypsum in the composition, then such a floor is best used for rooms with dry and low level humidity, it will demonstrate all its positive traits self-leveling floor A wooden surface can also be used for a base in which a heating system will be present. In this case, you should choose a leveling mass that has increased elasticity. It will expand and contract during operation without cracking.
Conclusion
Sometimes the self-leveling floor is separated from the wooden surface with oiled paper, which is covered with an overlap. In this case, the layer should be poured one or two centimeters thick. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor should be formed by treating the surface with waterproofing impregnation.