When planning the construction of a private house consisting of two or more floors, it is very important Special attention pay attention to the construction of the stairs and railings for it, because without this useful structure you are unlikely to get into, for example, the attic.
Fencing for stairs can be made especially beautiful, which, in addition to decorative purposes, also provides us with a safe ascent to other floors of buildings. When producing railings, it is important to use only quality material, taking into account a number of special points that we will talk about later.
Wooden fencing adds homely atmosphere cosiness
State standards
GOST for stair railings and general technical requirements
If you are planning to make your own stair railings, then in addition to your imagination, you must take into account some of the standards provided by the state.
Fences must be of a certain height, from 90 to 120cm
According to these rules and regulations (SNiP), it is important to build structures that will be safe both for you and for everyone who wishes to visit your wonderful home. There are special rules for arranging stairs, which means that you will have to familiarize yourself with them, because depending on the design and the chosen material, installation methods and devices may be different.
Stair railings made of different materials
Brick railings
Concrete railings
Wooden railings
Metal and forged railings
All elements metal fencing fastened by welding
We install wooden railings ourselves
Required Tools
Materials needed
- Handrails.
- End pedestals, dense vertical posts at the end and beginning of the stairs.
- And, of course, balusters selected to your taste.
Forged balusters in combination with wooden railings look unsurpassed
Stages of work
An extraordinary wooden fence is ready!
Cost of fencing made of different materials
Unique fencing will cost you a lot of money
- Granite railings - 500 rubles per linear meter.
- Marble railings - from 1,500 rubles per linear meter.
- Wooden railings - from 180 rubles per linear meter, the price depends on the type of wood.
- Stainless steel railings - from 27,000 per linear meter.
- Forged railings - from 28 thousand rubles and above, per linear meter the price is about 6,000 rubles.
- Decorative ends of handrails - from 7,000 rubles.
Wrought iron railings for stairs will decorate any building
Completion
When installing stair railings, it is important to take into account generally accepted norms and rules; do not forget that their height should be selected in the range from 90-120cm. Choose only reliable and durable materials and strictly follow all installation instructions. Having studied all the information, get to work, the main thing is not to rush, do not be nervous, and never doubt your abilities!
No one a private house two or more floors cannot do without stairs. There are many requirements for such structures. And one of the key ones is safety in use, especially if there are small children living in the house. In order to make the staircase as comfortable and safe to use as possible, as well as to give it a more aesthetic appearance, balusters are installed on it.
This publication will discuss installing balusters on a wooden staircase with your own hands. Due to the fact that there are various ways installation of these elements, from the information presented below you can choose the most suitable option for a particular case.
What are these - balusters?
To begin with, perhaps in order to broaden your horizons, it makes sense to understand what balusters are and where they are used, except for framing staircases. Perhaps this information can be useful when decorating other areas of a private home.
So, balusters are small racks that can have different shapes and thickness. They are made from a variety of materials and used in different areas of the building, depending on the style of its design.
It is interesting that balusters have been used since the construction of the palaces of the Assyrian rulers to the present day, almost in their original form. With change architectural styles, these elements changed shape, craftsmen used various materials to make them. But at the same time, their purpose does not change, as well as their former demand in construction.
Thus, a row of balusters forms a balustrade, which has been widely used since ancient times. Moreover not only when fencing stairs, but also to support roof overhangs. In the latest versions, the balusters had very impressive sizes and were installed from the base of the facade to the roof. In addition, the balusters installed on the facades also performed decorative functions, setting the design style of the building’s exterior.
IN last years, with the return of such architectural styles as Russian classicism, baroque and empire, the elements that are integral to these directions are again returning to widespread use. And balusters are among them.
Variety of balusters based on material of manufacture
If previously such architectural elements were made of stone, wood or clay, and later they began to be made of concrete, gypsum and metal, today polymers have been added to these materials (most often these are - polyurethane). And in order to understand how the racks differ from each other, and which of them can be used on a wooden staircase, it is necessary to consider them in more detail.
Plaster and concrete balusters
Balusters made of concrete and gypsum can be combined into one group, since they are made using the same technology. These types of figured racks are classic version, today they are mainly used for various areas of the exterior design of a building - this can be the fencing of balconies, terraces, stairs, as well as the eaves lines of flat roofs.
The frame for balusters made of concrete or plaster is reinforcement cage. It is placed in a special mold, into which the solution is then poured. After removal from molds finished products, if necessary, they are sent for the grinding process.
When completed, the “classic” baluster takes the shape of an elongated flowerpot, intercepted in a narrow place by a ring. Creating this most widespread The shapes of the staircase posts are attributed to the famous Italian scientist, artist and architect Michelangelo.
If cast balusters are intended for use outdoors, then they are impregnated special compounds and, if necessary, painted.
Prices for balusters
baluster
Previously, similar elements of balustrades and staircase railings were made as individual products, from which the overall composition was built. Nowadays, quite often sections are poured out entirely, and the entire fencing structure is assembled from them. Moreover, sections can be straight, curved under different angles or semicircular, depending on the shape of the staircase or balcony landing that they should enclose. In order for the sections to be precisely adjusted to the area intended for them, they are most often made to order, with the necessary measurements taken.
The disadvantage of these designs is their quite high price, as well as a very considerable mass of products. Therefore, both single balusters of gypsum or concrete, and sections of them are almost never used to enclose wooden stairs.
Stone balusters
The most durable, but also the most expensive in price, are stone balusters. They can be made in two ways. The first is by turning products from solid or separate pieces of stone, from which a baluster is then assembled by hand. Another option is balusters made from artificial stone. They, by analogy with concrete ones, are produced by casting. To do this, a special solution is poured into prepared forms. The solution consists of stone chips, sand, cement, fine gravel, and dye. Recently, glass fiber has been most often used as a reinforcing agent.
Balusters made of natural or artificial stone are most often used for stairs or facades lined with the same material. They are ideal for such areas and add appearance the building has a special respectability. Stone balusters are not installed on wooden stairs: firstly, because they are quite heavy, and secondly, because stone and wood still do not harmonize very well with each other.
Unlike concrete and gypsum, stone products can have a wider range of different shapes.
Metal balusters
Metal posts for fencing stairs and other areas of the building are produced by forging, casting or welding. They are usually made to order for a specific installation location, according to a pre-drawn sketch and precise calculations.
Metal balustrades, unlike other products, are used for fencing not only stairs and other areas of the house, but also for windows - as protective and decorative grilles. Moreover, products made by any of the three listed methods are suitable for this purpose.
Metal balusters can have various shapes, and be voluminous or flat. The last option can be found in multi-storey buildings, built in pre-revolutionary Russia.
Metal balusters made of thin elements can be used in combination with a wooden staircase. With the correct, not excessive combination and proportionality of parts, wood and metal are in perfect harmony with each other.
Prices for metal balusters
metal baluster
Polyurethane balusters
Polyurethane balusters are lightweight and can be given absolutely any shape. In addition, their price is much more affordable, unlike all the above options. Products are made from polymer high density and are not afraid of mechanical loads.
Such balusters consist of a shell made of polyurethane and a supporting frame, which is a metal rod that gives the product a certain weight, making the product more stable. In addition, the rod, embedded in a polyurethane body, has holes or mounting pads in its end sides for attaching balusters to the base and railings. Due to the fact that this type of product is light in weight and can be decorated to match any material, it can be used for installation on both stone and wooden stairs.
It is also interesting that polyurethane products can very reliably imitate almost any of the above materials.
Find out how to do it yourself from a new article on our portal.
Wooden balusters
Balusters made from natural wood, are traditional for Russian architectural styles. They can be made in the form of volumetric or flat relief elements. Volumetric products are turned from processed round timber, and flat balusters are cut from boards different thicknesses and width. That's why various options Such products may differ significantly in the method of installation and fastening.
On the facades of private houses built of wood, you can often see balustrades used as fencing for balconies, consisting of such figured columns. If you have a lathe in your personal workshop, you can easily make them yourself.
Flat balusters can also be cut out with your own hands from high-quality boards, using, for example, electric jigsaw. Well, then, with patience, you will have to process their edges until they are perfectly smooth.
Properly manufactured and treated wooden fences will probably last no less than stone or the other material mentioned above. Of course, balusters, also made of wood, are best suited for a wooden staircase. They combine perfectly in weight, texture and possible design solutions, opening up ample opportunities for the manifestation of the imagination of the owners of the house.
Staircase design and methods of attaching balusters
Place of balusters in a staircase structure
It makes sense to consider the general one and become familiar with the names of the parts that make up it. In addition, it is necessary to choose the option of installing and securing the racks of the enclosing structure.
Basic elements of wood interfloor stairs shown in the illustration:
When drawing up a drawing for the construction of a staircase, as well as when studying the description installation work to arrange it, you can refer to this diagram, since it indicates the location and name of all the main parts of the structure.
So, balusters can be installed on the edges of the surfaces of steps or on a string.
The top picture shows a staircase in construction which balusters are installed on the steps. In this case, the width of the steps allows you to install two wooden decorative fencing posts on their edges. In this case, the upper edge of the balusters is cut at the same angle at which the flight of stairs is installed.
If the string of the staircase structure has a large width sufficient for the size of the base of the balusters, then they can be installed on it in order to maintain the width of the flight of stairs. However, this installation option can be called more complex, since not only the upper, but also the lower side of the balusters will have to be cut to the desired angle. It is clear that the lower edge will have to correspond to the inclination of the bowstring.
Prices for railings
This diagram shows the installation principle and fastening of balusters to a bowstring. If wooden balusters are selected, then they are cut at an angle of installation of the flight of stairs. If you choose a polyurethane or metal version of the racks, and they are supposed to be installed on a string, then you will have to arrange some kind of steps-stands on it for the balusters. The horizontal surface of such steps must be parallel to the floor of the room.
However, due to the fact that the most commonly used ones are balusters made from natural wood, then options for their installation will be considered.
Attaching balusters to steps or strings must be done using dowels, pins or self-tapping screws. It is not recommended to fix retaining elements with nails, since in this case, the reliability and safety of the structure is difficult to guarantee. Considering that the staircase is constantly experiencing mechanical and vibration loads, the nails will quickly expand the hole through which they are driven into wood, as a result which does not rule out the possibility that the staircase railing structure will quickly become loose and become very unreliable.
Options for attaching balusters to studs
Using pins, balusters can be attached to the surface in several ways. In this case, either smooth or threaded studs are used.
- In order to fasten the balusters to smooth studs, markings are made at the end of the racks, since the hole must be drilled exactly in the center of the base of the product. Then, at the found point, a hole with a depth of no more than 80 mm and a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm is drilled.
The diameter of the hole is selected depending on the size of the end of the baluster and, of course, on the diameter of the pin. It should be about 1 millimeter larger. It must be drilled out very carefully, otherwise wooden product may crack. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to first drill a hole with a drill with a diameter of 5 mm, and then expand it to the required size.
In order for the pin to fit tightly into its seat, wood glue is poured into it, and the end of the pin for a length of 50÷60 mm is not only processed adhesive composition, but can also be sprinkled with small sawdust. After the pin is prepared, it is inserted into the hole in the end of the baluster using a screwing motion. A part of it 70÷80 mm long should remain outside. Excess glue that appears is immediately removed, otherwise, after hardening, it will interfere with the installation of the baluster on the step or string of the staircase structure.
Prices for steps for stairs
- Another option for using studs as fastening is to screw them in. In this case, studs are selected that have threads at both ends: On the one side metric, with the second - by type of screw.
In order to screw such a pin into the end of the baluster, a hole with a diameter of 1–2 mm less than the thread of the fastening element is drilled in it. Before screwing in, the hole is also filled with glue, and the pin is screwed into it with its pointed end. For screwing on metric thread two or three nuts are screwed in and locked, and screwing in will be easy with a regular socket wrench
To ensure that the second end of the hairpin is securely held in the step or bowstring, you can do this. A hole of the same diameter is drilled in their surface as in the end of the baluster, and then its upper part is expanded to glue one or more nuts, which must be recessed flush with the main surface.
The balusters can be installed in place only after the glue around the nut has completely dried. Before screwing the baluster into place, the hole will need to be filled with glue.
- Using a threaded rod and a nut, you can do it differently, but only if the baluster will be attached to a step that has a small thickness. In this option, a through hole is drilled in the step, into which a pin is inserted, glued into the baluster. Then, with bottom side steps, a washer of the appropriate size is put on the stud, after which a nut is screwed onto the thread, which will press the baluster to the step. In this option, it is recommended that before installing the baluster on the step, coat its entire end side around the installed pin with wood glue.
- The next option for installing a baluster can be considered the use of a hairpin, the outer end of which, coming from the end, is also a kind of thick screw. Installation involves directly screwing the stud into the step board, pre-coating the end part of the baluster with wood glue.
Installation of balusters on wooden dowels
Now it’s worth considering consolidation wooden balusters on dowels. This method, by the way, is considered traditional for installing stairs. Dowels are easy to use, and in addition, they can be made independently. However, you can also buy it in a store furniture fittings They are not difficult, since their cost is very low.
Prices for wooden stairs
wooden staircase
For this process, you only need the dowels themselves of the required length and diameter, as well as wood glue. The diameter of the dowel can be from 8 to 12 mm, and the length is 100÷120 mm. To install a dowel, a hole is marked and drilled in the center of the end of the baluster and is 1÷2 mm in diameter larger than the dowel size and with a depth of approximately half the length of this fastening rod. Then, the hole is filled with glue and a dowel is inserted into it. Before continuing work, the glue must be allowed to dry thoroughly. Any excess that appears on the surface must be removed immediately after gluing the part. It is important to glue the dowel exactly vertically, otherwise the baluster will be installed crookedly on the stairs.
To secure a baluster to a string or step, their installation points are marked, which must be located along the same line. At the found points, holes for dowels are drilled. When the glue on the balusters has dried, their end is coated with a layer of the same glue, it is also poured into the hole on the step or string, and then the dowel is tightly inserted into the hole. After this, the baluster must be firmly fixed until the glue hardens. At the same time, the racks are aligned, which is controlled using a building level.
Fastening balusters with self-tapping screws
The simplest and most accessible way for any craftsman to fasten balusters, both on the string and on the steps, is to fix them with self-tapping screws 80÷100 mm long.
This type of fastening cannot be called traditional, however, it fully lives up to the expectations for a reliable and durable fastening. The self-tapping screw is screwed through the baluster into the string or step from the side, obliquely, into a pre-drilled hole for it of a smaller diameter than the fastening element itself. Since the head of the screw must be recessed into the wood, for it, the hole in the upper part is expanded (countersinked). After the self-tapping screw is screwed into the wood, the cap will disappear into the nest prepared for it; the holes will be masked with wood putty of a suitable color.
Balusters can also be fixed to the handrails with self-tapping screws. But for this purpose, fasteners of shorter length are usually chosen, since in no case should they pass through the railing. The head of the self-tapping screw is also buried in the countersunk socket in the same way, and then masked with putty.
The process of installing a wooden balustrade on the stairs - step by step
Now, having understood the methods of fastening balusters, we can move on to considering the stages of installation work on assembling the stair railing as a whole.
The instruction table below will present one of the options for assembling a staircase balustrade. However, it should be noted that this method is not the only one, since each master works according to his own template, developed over the years.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | So, after the steps of the stairs are mounted, their edge area is marked. The installation line is determined support pillars and balusters. For marking you will need a flat metal or wooden plank, having a length equal to the length staircase, metal ruler, pencil and square. By the way, you can use a galvanized profile, which is used for installing plasterboard structures. The profile or plank is laid along the edge of the steps, approximately at the same distance from the edge. Then, the exact distance from the edge to the plank is measured across the entire width of the step, and a line is drawn at the points found. Thus, all steps are marked. At the end of the process, all lines on the steps must coincide with the common bar. |
 | The next step is to determine the locations for fastening the support pillars, between which the balusters will be fastened. The pillars should have a cross-sectional size larger than the balusters, approximately twice as large. For example, if the balusters have a size of 50x50 mm, then the pillars should have a cross-section of at least 80x80, and preferably 100x100 mm. You can use a pin, screw or dowel to secure the support posts. If the pole is installed on a wooden surface, the length of the fastening element should be 100 mm and the diameter 8÷10 mm. In this case, these bolts with conical threads are used, like a screw. |
 | In the example shown, the upper platform on which the staircase rests is made of concrete. Therefore, calculating the action plan in advance, a so-called embed was built into the concrete at the edge of the site - this is a metal plate measuring 80×80 or 100×100 mm and a thickness of at least 4÷5 mm. On top of the plate, strictly vertically, the mentioned bolt-screw with a length of 100 mm and a diameter of 8 mm is welded. |
 | A hole corresponding to the diameter of the welded bolt is drilled in the lower end part of the support column. Then, the post is simply screwed onto a threaded pin welded to the mortgage. To ensure that the post is pressed tightly to the floor surface, the bottom of the drilled hole can be slightly widened. |
 | If the support post is installed on a plank surface, then a hole for the fastener is drilled in it, just like in the end of the post, according to pre-made markings. |
 | The post can be fixed to a horizontal surface using the same bolt. To do this you will have to wooden surface drill a through hole on the stairs, and then insert the fastener from below, having first placed a wide metal washer on it. You can fix the post with a dowel, gluing it into the end of the post, and then into the hole of the step, or with a pin, screwing it first into the end of the post, and then into the step board. In a word, by any of the methods discussed above, whichever seems more convenient. |
 | Typically, the bottom support pillar in a flight of stairs is mounted on the last step and pressed against the riser of the previous step, which gives it some additional rigidity. |
 | When installing support pillars, it is necessary to ensure that they are not only perfectly vertical, but also on the same line, otherwise the staircase railings will be installed crookedly or will not be able to fit into their designated place at all. |
 | Having installed the support pillars, you can proceed to determining the mounting points for the balusters. For this procedure you will need a construction corner and a ruler. If the steps are wide enough, then it is best to attach two balusters to each of them. All elements of the balustrade must be located at the same distance from each other. Typically, when installing two balusters on each step, the distance between them is 70÷80 mm. The exact location is marked along a previously outlined general line. |
 | After the installation points for the balusters are determined, through holes are drilled through them, through which the racks will be fixed to the steps. If you choose the option of fastening using dowels or pins, then before gluing fasteners into the balusters, half of the racks will need to be shortened somewhat so that they are installed exactly under the handrail. Thus, the first baluster of the step remains at its original height, and the second, located closer to the bottom step, is shortened by approximately half the height of the step. In each specific case, the cut part will have its own size, depending on the width and height of the step. |
 | Balusters can be attached to the steps using any of the methods described above or, as in this case, using a bolt-screw screwed from below through a through hole in the step board into a hole drilled in the lower end of the baluster. A metal washer is put on the bolt, then it is inserted from the bottom of the step into the hole and screwed using a socket wrench-ratchet through the board into the hole drilled in the end of the baluster. A screw 80 mm long and 6 mm in diameter is suitable for this purpose. |
 | When all the balusters are secured to the steps, a straight guide bar is attached to them so that it passes through the upper corners of the balusters. The plank can be secured using clamps. After this, along the guide, on each of the balusters, a line for the future cut is drawn with a pencil. In addition, the vertical location of each of the racks is also marked on the guide. The balusters must be numbered so that there is no confusion during further assembly of the structure. |
 | After this, the balusters are carefully unscrewed and removed from the steps. Holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled in the center of their end upper part. Then using miter saw Sections are made along the marked lines. The next step, according to the numbering, is to return the balusters to their original place and secure them to the guide along the pre-made marking lines. |
 | Now you can move on to working on the railings. The first thing that needs to be done is to determine the cut angle of the ends of this part, since they should be used to connect it to the support posts. For this purpose, you can use a tool such as a malka. Experienced carpenters advise simply not to change the angle set on the saw for cutting down the balusters. Before making cuts, it is necessary to accurately determine the length of the railing. To do this, they are laid on the edge of the steps, from the supporting upper to the lower pillar, and their exact length is marked with a pencil, taking into account the oblique cut. The width of the railing should be equal to the width of the support posts. |
 | After this, oblique cuts of the railing beams are made according to the markings. Further cut end sides must be thoroughly cleaned using sandpaper. |
 | Now on the railing beam, along its entire length, it is necessary to cut a groove, the width of which should be equal to the width of the balusters. The groove depth should be 7÷8 mm. The groove should be in the middle part of the beam, that is, it is made at a distance of 12–15 mm from the edges. To make such a groove, of course, there is no way to do without a manual or stationary milling machine. |
 | To securely fasten the railing, you will additionally need a wooden railing strip with a thickness of 8÷10 mm and a width equal to the width of the groove cut in the railing. The underrail is screwed with self-tapping screws to the upper ends of the balusters while they are fastened with a guide rail. The bar will replace the last one and fix the racks in the required position. Once it is secured, the temporary guide can be removed. |
 | Railings are laid on top of the planks and screwed to it from below using self-tapping screws. |
 | Additionally, the railings, wherever they are installed, are fixed with long self-tapping screws to the support posts. To do this with outside a through hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled into the column. First, the hole is widened so that the self-tapping screw goes deep into the wood, approximately 20 mm, passes through the post and is screwed into the end of the railing by 30–40 mm. The length of the screw is calculated depending on the size of the support post. |
Additionally, it is necessary to recall that when installing balusters on their permanent place for any fastening, it is recommended to coat their end surfaces with wood glue. It is best to do the same when installing the railing strip, as well as the railing itself. The glue, when hardened, will strengthen the structure and make it more durable.
Not as easy as it might seem at first sight. To get a strong and reliable structure, you first need to carry out accurate calculations, taking into account the lifting height, the free space that can be allocated to it, ergonomic criteria and even the height and weight of the inhabitants of the house. In these calculations, every parameter is important, from the thickness and width of the steps, to the cross-section and height of the balusters, as well as other structural details. Therefore, in order for the staircase structure to be safe and reliable in operation, it is best to entrust its calculation to specialists. And if you plan to build the staircase completely on your own, then you will need to strictly follow the drawn up drawing, observing all the dimensions indicated in it.
Video: The final stage of installation of a home interfloor wooden staircase - installation of support pillars, balusters and railings
Today we will look at the issue of fastening balusters and railings when installing wooden stairs. Even a person who is not experienced in the intricacies of carpentry understands how rich and noble appearance wooden stairs are, how difficult they are to manufacture and install.
Calculation and production of parts
The railing of a wooden staircase consists of three key elements:
- Railings are horizontal or inclined elements that can be grasped by hand.
- Balusters - vertical supports between steps and railings.
- Pillars or pedestals - vertical racks, into which the ends of the railings rest. Typically, pillars have turned or carved heads.
The parts of each group are manufactured individually, after which they are assembled at the installation site. Posts and balusters are made primarily by turning, and railings by milling.
You need to start calculating the fence with the railings, which include straight and curved segments. In general, the configuration of the railing is determined by the shape of the staircase in plan. The outer edges of the steps are taken as the base for calculations; the railings are located with some indentation from them towards the center of the flight of stairs. The offset is necessary so that the support point of the pillars and balusters is not located at the very edge. The amount of indentation is determined by the cross-section of the supports, plus some arbitrary value is added, which is dictated by aesthetic considerations. It is also necessary to take into account such specific circumstances as the overlap of spans in plan, achieving a symmetrical setback on adjacent flights and at the same time maintaining the width of the passage as much as possible.
In space, individual parts of the railing can be located strictly horizontally and under the general slope of the stairs. Calculation of the length and dimensions of the horizontal segments can be done by displaying a sketch of the railings on the staircase plan drawing. Inclined elements are calculated in a similar way, but to calculate their actual length it is necessary to divide the projection length by the cosine of the angle at which the flight of stairs is inclined relative to the horizontal normal.
When calculating pillars and balusters, several requirements apply, the most important of which is the height of the fences. According to GOST, stair railings must rise above the plane of the steps by at least 90 cm in residential buildings and at least 120 cm in public institutions and on street staircases. The axial profile of pillars and balusters can be arbitrary, but there are certain requirements: the thickness of the pillars in the plane of support should be at least 10% of their height, balusters can be 2-2.5 times thinner. The length of the balusters should be equal to the height of the fence + 7-10%, while in the base part a uniform profile (preferably faceted) should be maintained for a length of at least 5% of the total. The pillars are made in quantities of at least two for each flight of stairs, the number of balusters is equal to or twice the number of steps.
The width of the railing in plan should be approximately 30-50 mm less than the thickness of the pillars in the abutment area and 15-20 mm greater than the thickness of the balusters. The milling profile can be arbitrary, but the preferred option is a rounded top with two longitudinal necks for a more secure hand grip. The length of the handrail segments should have an allowance of 50-80 mm in both directions for cutting and fitting.
Pre-assembly and preparation for installation
Before starting the installation of the stairs, it is necessary to first assemble the straight segments of the railing using adhesive joints. The spatial arrangement of the handrails is a guide for calculating the attachment points of the vertical fencing elements. Since the railings are precisely machined and have a flat bottom edge, they are convenient to use as a straight rail for further marking.
Sometimes, at corners and turns of staircases, the distance between flights forces the installation of short handrail inserts between the posts. Depending on the configuration of the staircase, these sections are assembled either from one or several radius segments, or from linear segments. The railing elements are prepared and glued in advance; the connection is made using hidden domino-type tenons or 2-3 cylindrical dowels.
Also, before starting work, they should be stocked the right amount wooden dowels for attaching balusters and posts. It is also advisable to cut the pillars themselves to size: if this could not be done in the workshop, then due to the large cross-section, processing with a miter saw is not possible. It is better to apply markings along the perimeter of the base part under the square, making sure that the end of the last line coincides with the beginning of the first. Trimming is done along this line with a hand-held saw with a fine tooth; it is advisable to alternately go deeper into each face by 3-5 mm. For greater confidence, you can secure the limit rail with clamps.
Marking and fastening of pillars
The pillars are the basis for positioning the entire stair railing. They are located on each top and bottom step of each flight of stairs. If there are intermediate platforms, including rotary ones, this rule must also be observed. At the same time, the uppermost post can be common to the railing and balustrade.
Factory posts come in two types: solid and box-shaped, that is, glued together from strips of thick plywood or wood panels. It is very important that each post has a straight edge at the junction of the handrails, because in the case of joining with a round support, factory trimming of the edges of the handrail is required, which significantly complicates the installation process.
Hollow pillars are attached through a boss - a 150-200 mm piece of timber, the outer dimensions of which correspond as closely as possible to the cavity of the pillar. The boss is attached through a through axial hole using a pin screwed into the step or platform. This method of fastening allows for rotation of the post around its axis and a slight lateral play for its precise positioning. The hollow post is glued using thick glue; the lower end is first lubricated with a small amount of sealant; this perimeter band will prevent excess glue from squeezing out.
A - box-shaped post with fastening through a boss. B - solid post with dowel fastening. 1 - pillar; 2 - base; 3 - plinth; 4 - pin or anchor; 5 - dowel
Monolithic poles are fastened to one large (20-30 mm) dowel or to several small ones evenly distributed over the support area. With this method of fastening, it is desirable that the junction of the post to the site be framed by a plinth, which helps to hide the adhesive seam and increase the support plane. If you have a baseboard, you can also use the fastening method with ties for cabinet furniture, since the niches for the nuts will ultimately be hidden anyway.
The alignment of pillars is better with parallel pairs, that is, on intermediate platforms where flights of stairs converge. The distance between the pillars should provide a sufficiently large gap between the lower handrail and the steps of the upper flight. In the longitudinal direction, the position of the pillars is determined by two long straight slats laid on the edges of the steps of converging marches. The plane laid across the line of intersection of the slats is the ideal position for installing the posts. If necessary, they can be moved towards the spans, but not back, otherwise the railings will overlap. When paired pillars are positioned on landings and turns, the end ones are also marked using the same principle; it is important here that the connection with the railing is carried out at the same height.
Trimming, installing balusters
Looking ahead, we note that the sequence of attaching the balusters to the steps, to the handrails, as well as the handrails themselves to the posts may be different depending on the method of assembling the fence. First, all balusters must be trimmed and their attachment points must be marked.
It is best to fasten the bottom of the balusters on dowels with zero tolerance, drilling the steps to a depth of 20 mm. To mark the centers of the holes you need to shoot laser level a vertical plane parallel to the end of the steps. If balusters are installed in the amount of one piece per step, it is enough to use a square to find its middle, based on the riser. When installing balusters in pairs, you need to achieve their uniform spacing, for which the protrusion of the upper step above the lower one is beaten off with a square, and the remaining “net” width is divided so that the centers of the balusters are spaced from the edges by 1/4 of the resulting segment.
When installing balusters, it is important to keep their heads strictly on the same line
Balusters with a figured profile must be aligned in length relative to the handrails. To do this, they are laid out on a flat plane, aligning the profiles along their widest part. Next, a line is drawn under the long straight rail, which serves as a marking for trimming at right angles.
The oblique cut of the top of the balusters is made on miter saw or in a precision miter box. Balusters are trimmed in groups for each flight of stairs. First you need to determine the actual slope of the stairs by placing a strip on the edges of the steps and marking the horizontal axis along it with a laser level. Using this marking, a template is made using a small tool, according to which fine tuning is carried out turntable saws.
Before oblique trimming, centering holes are made at the ends of the balusters; their depth should be sufficient to deepen the dowel at least 40 mm after trimming. In the lower part, drilling is carried out after trimming the balusters to length. This is quite simple to do: first, dry and strictly vertically install the two outer balusters of each span, which are temporarily fastened together with a regular strip with a straight edge, aligned with the upper edge of the oblique cut. Next, one by one, put the balusters in their place, use a caliper to determine the excess length and trim the lower end, if necessary, deepening the center hole and always numbering the parts.
Attaching handrails
The handrail can be attached to posts different methods, among which the most popular are fixation on spikes or screws with making through holes. The first method is more labor-intensive and often fastening on spikes cannot be done without slot router with precise adjustment of the inclination of the sole. In the second case, installation is simpler, but there are mounting holes on the backs of the posts that need to be closed with decorative plugs.
Railing with railing
Attaching the railings to the balusters is done in two ways. Simple - using a rail and a little more complex - using wooden dowels. The choice of fastening method depends entirely on the profile of the handrail: when fixing to an intermediate rail, a rectangular groove to the appropriate depth must be selected in the lower edge of the product. The handrails for fastening to dowels should also have a groove equal to the width of the base part of the balusters, but it is intended solely for masking the fastening points and should have a depth of 5-7 mm.
The final assembly of the fence, as mentioned, can take place in different sequences. When attaching to a support rail, balusters are first glued to the steps on the dowels, after which the rail is installed, and then the handrails are cut and secured with self-tapping screws from below. When installing balusters on dowels and attaching handrails to posts with self-tapping screws, first glue all the railings, and drilling into them must be carried out with tolerance: in this case, landing on liquid nails will allow for more accurate alignment. If the balusters are attached to dowels, and the pillars to the handrails are fastened with a tenon connection, the pedestals are installed last, which requires the simultaneous positioning of all elements of the staircase in a short time for the glue to set.
Final processing of the railings
As a rule, wooden stair railings are assembled from parts that have already been primed and painted. In such cases, all that remains is to disguise the places where the railings are joined, where they join the posts and balusters to the steps, where gaps up to 1-1.5 mm thick can form. To fill the cracks, you can use acrylic sealant or wood paste based on natural wax.
If wooden parts do not have a protective coating at the time of assembly, the cracks in them are sealed with wood putty, and then the entire fence along with the stairs is primed and painted. It is recommended to apply two layers of transparent water-soluble primer followed by fine sanding to remove raised lint. Next, the steps are covered with stain or glaze in 2-3 layers. It is recommended to choose two layers of transparent polyurethane varnish as the main protective coating.
Our company "Style of the Century" has been well-known in the railing and fencing market for many years. We carry out high-quality work on the design, manufacture and installation of stairs, installation of fences. All work is carried out by highly qualified specialists and the structures are made from the best materials. We mainly work with construction companies and corporate clients, but also accepts orders from individuals.
The advantages of ordering stainless steel railings from us:
Openness. You can visit our company and see with your own eyes ready-made designs, touch them and check their reliability. Before ordering from our company, you see the level of quality of our work.
Only high quality material. All orders are made from the best materials and undergo strict quality control in compliance with all safety standards. We use only modern and professional equipment.
Quality work. All our employees are professionals. Every step of design, manufacturing and installation will be under the strictest supervision. In addition, the work is completed as quickly as possible. Approximately up to 50 p/m per shift.
Insurance. When working with our company, you are insured against an unsuccessful purchase. We have permission to carry out work that affects the safety of capital construction (SRO No. 0712-769-001).
Main fencing elements:
Stainless steel vertical posts
Post tip
Bottom of handrail
Wooden or stainless steel handrail
Plug or flange
Filling the space between racks (glass or crossbar)
The process of installing railings and stair railings
The first step is to mark the racks for the stair railings.
Then holes are made in the floor using diamond non-impact drilling to install the finished fencing balusters. If the tile itself is laid with high quality, then this drilling method minimizes the likelihood of the tile splitting. This method will protect it by 99%.
If the width and design of the flight of stairs allow, the rack can be attached directly to the end stair steps. In this option, either special flanges or two anchors are used, thanks to which direct fastening occurs.
Using a two-component special solution, racks are installed in the drilled holes. It should be taken into account that the solution will dry out in 2-3 days, and will completely harden only after 30 days. Therefore, in no case should you loosen the fences after installation, since it is very easy to break the hermetically sealed mortar.
Then the balusters are leveled in height by attaching a handrail. If necessary, they can be trimmed.
On last stage The handrail is being installed. The quantity depends on the type of structure, glass or crossbars. After completing this stage, the staircase is completely ready for use.
As you can see, installing railings is not as simple as it might seem at first glance; this process requires knowledge and experience. If you contact our company, you can be sure of the reliability of the design and the quality of the work performed.
We suggest considering how the railings are installed. In a wooden staircase, the balusters are attached to the bowstring; they are fixed using self-tapping screws or stainless steel brackets installed at the top and bottom. The heads of the self-tapping screws installed in secret grooves are covered with wood plugs. The holes for them are pre-drilled.They are attached to the side of the posts using screws. The most durable option for installing railings is a spike. In such cases, even during the production of structural elements, spikes are created in the handrails, and on upper areas- nests for them. When performing installation, the tenons are pre-coated with wood glue.
Installation on the bowstring using metal pins is allowed. They are glued into special holes in the lower sections of the supports, and sockets are drilled into the bowstring for them. Now you can install balusters for the fence. Installation with sheets is carried out using exactly the same principle. In such cases, the holes are made of a larger diameter, but it is necessary to take into account the cross-section of the bar. If it is less than six centimeters, then experts do not recommend using this method of fastening.
Railing fastening, quick installation
In forged ones made of wood, the material itself is not used. The span is assembled directly onto the steps. For this purpose, a pin is inserted at the bottom of all intermediate-type balusters, the length of which is no shorter than ten centimeters. Initially, the top one is screwed into the step, then removed from the stud, which will serve as a guide for marking connection points in other areas. Holes for iron pins are drilled according to the marks, after which each is screwed into place.
Parts of the racks should be leveled to the same level if necessary. The handrail is installed on self-tapping screws. The same principle applies to installing railings on concrete bases - wooden railings are mounted along the steps. For the device, holes are made in the steps along the markings, the depth of which is at least one hundred and twenty millimeters, and the radius is 1.6 cm. Then anchors are installed to secure the supporting elements. Fixation with flanges is particularly reliable - at least three holes are installed in the step, the flange is inserted, and only then the staircase post is inserted.
Installation of a tread in the end section is recommended in cases where the flight of stairs is not very wide. In this option, holes for expansion anchors are drilled at the ends. They are fixed into balusters and bushings. It is allowed to install a special holder at the end into which the support will be fixed.
The handrails are cut into pieces of suitable length, and holes are drilled into them for each connecting point with the supports. After this, each one is individually secured with screws.
Metal cables or rods and solid glass panels, which are installed on special brackets, are used as fillers.
Installation of the entire staircase structure by professional
carried out quickly by specialists, its essence lies in
certain operations:
⦁ An agreement is drawn up with the customer, defining the timing of installation work, taking into account individual characteristics and the complexity of the flights of stairs, the cost is discussed.
⦁ At the time appointed for assembly, the team arrives at the site and assembles the staircase on site.
Installing forged structures is not an easy task. Therefore, we recommend contacting the company. The most inconvenient thing that happens when installing steel railings is dust from the metal. It is harmful and you need to work in a special respirator, and all things around, if services are carried out indoors, must be closed. We recommend placing an order for installation; the convenience of cooperation also lies in the fact that after the work, debris will be removed, and partial repairs of the walls will be carried out if the structure is adjacent to it. How much the work costs, see the catalog or find out the price by contacting us in feedback.
Mounting methods
⦁ Single. This is the most quick option fixing the stand. They are mounted on one anchor bolt, fully responsible for the reliability of the connection. Although the work is completed quickly, this option is not the most reliable;
⦁ Anti-vandal. It provides for a device in the floor into which embedded elements are subsequently placed. The fastening points to the racks are covered with the help of special decorative elements. This method of fixation is quite reliable and can withstand significant loads;
⦁ Flange. The stand is attached to a flange element, which is fixed with several anchors. This creates the maximum level of reliability.
When choosing a fastening method, you must take into account
attention to the main requirements regulatory documents By
permissible loads arising on fences made of
stainless metal:
⦁ Stairs located in residential buildings, kindergartens and schools, medical institutions and entertainment facilities, must withstand 36 kgf per meter;
⦁ For gyms and fitness clubs, as well as stands, this value should be five times higher;
⦁ All other objects must withstand 96 kgf per meter.
Installation of railing structures made of stainless metal has some advantages. An oxide layer is created on the metal, which reliably protects it from precipitation and acidic environments. The nickel used in production, in addition to strength, imparts some ductility, while simultaneously reducing fragility. The result is an alloy of excellent quality, which is not susceptible to corrosion even after being subjected to mechanical processing. To achieve reliable seams, individual parts can be secured using argon arc welding. At the site of such connections it gains additional strength.
Style-Metal manufacturing and installation company
stairs have a number of advantages:
⦁ Specialists have great experience in carrying out such work;
⦁ Availability of own production and warehouse premises;
⦁ The work cycle is carried out in full - from initial measurements to complete installation products.