There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What should we do for those who have not succeeded either with money or with skill? A simple brick stove that even a “humanitarian” can put together will help out.
The article discusses two options. The first one is suitable for those who want more or less “decent” heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who generally do not pretend to be either a penchant for handicraft or any kind of aesthetics of the result.
Figure 1. Simple brick oven
How to make a simple but effective stove?
This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating devices - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flames.
The structure occupies just over half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a strong base - it is enough to lay a strong board.
The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of this option is that starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they do not go beyond the skills of the average male.
On a note! No qualifications are required to build stoves. But it is necessary to maintain order - this will make the design as effective as possible in the context of its potential.
What will you need for the job?
It is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build the structure you will need:
- brick:
- *fireclay – 37 pcs.;
- *red – 60 pcs.;
- ash door;
- firebox door;
- lattice;
- valve;
- hob made of cast iron.
As a binder - clay mortar. In total you will need about 20-25 liters of the mixture.
It will also be interesting: - types and characteristics.
Preparation
The first step is to decide on the location of the stove. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no limitations inherent in traditional brick solutions. By securing strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.
The role of an insulator can be played by a non-flammable material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing felt is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the dimensions of the base plus a small allowance.
A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base level - the quality of the design and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.
Masonry scheme
Figure 2. Order stove masonryThe oven order is as follows:
- The first row is laid on sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly. The bricks are coated with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted at the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
- After fixing the door with wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a ash pit.
- Fireclay is used (in the diagram it has a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is installed above the ash pit.
- Before this, bricks were laid flat. On this row it is placed on its edge. A smoke exhaust channel is formed, inside which a base for the partition is made. One of the bricks (seen in the illustration) is laid “dry” - it will later be removed. After this, the firebox door is installed, which is wrapped several times with asbestos strips before installation. But this must be done so that the door opens well to the top. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
- The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
- Again the turn of the “ribs” is the second and the last row, in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
- The brick is laid flat according to the diagram. The back wall is made using the edge-on format again.
- This row closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove will be used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
- The bricks are moved slightly towards the back wall to support the firebox door. Before brickwork lay strips of asbestos soaked in water. Thanks to this, they ensure sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. A cast iron panel cannot be placed directly on a clay solution, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to the appearance of cracks.
- At this stage, the formation of the smoke exhaust pipe begins. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back side. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
- A valve sealed with asbestos strips is installed here. It is recommended to pre-coat the latter with clay mortar. This is the final row, which is used to complete the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining couple of rows are given to the chimney, which will then be connected to a lighter metal channel.
After this, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke exhaust duct and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.
Final works
The simplest stove does not require serious decorations. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of a yellow coating and bleaching.
Important! Brick and metal should be protected before work. If this is not done (for example, using film), you will not be able to get rid of the stains.
It is necessary to coat the seams between the brick and the metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between the ceramics and cast iron.
It is imperative to close the joint between stove brick and the floor. This will prevent oven sand from getting into the room. It is advisable to cover the joint with an L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves as both decor and additional element, preventing the “foundation” bedding from spilling out.
Figure 3. Functioning oven The stove is ready. The entire process took no more than one working day. Now you can try to make a low-power one. You cannot use logs - only wood chips or paper. Wood burning will create too much high temperature, and the structure will crack. For the mixture to fully set, you need to give it a week or two. After this, you can already heat it “like an adult.”
This is interesting: ? Review of 10 options.
An even simpler version of the stove
If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating structure. You can lay out this oven with your own hands in literally an hour, even if your hands are far from being called golden.
Figure 4. The simplest option brick ovens The operating principle of the structure is simple. Solid fuel burns below, and settles here under the influence of its own mass. Temperature changes create a draft that carries hot air currents upward. In this case, the firewood burns almost without a residue - the smoke is minimal.
For masonry you will need only two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that there is no point in describing the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.
Figure 5. Order of the simplest brick structure If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. It is recommended to bind the bricks with clay mortar. But in hiking conditions You can do without any binding material - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes. 
Figure 6. Masonry process 
Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven
For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.
Figure 8. Diagram of a simple stove According to this diagram, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed for loading firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney duct. 
Figure 9. L-shaped stove
To create this structure you will also need 20-30 bricks. This option can be completed by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a mason are completely absent. A specialist will complete the construction in a matter of minutes.
A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries, guaranteeing normal work unit.
Those who want to know how to ideally build a brick stove will find detailed information on all the important issues that interest an independent craftsman. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.
The information we provide will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last for many years without complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.
Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.
There are many stove designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:
Image gallery
Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating your home and cottageEven a novice mason can easily build a brick oven for a house with his own hands. Due to the abundance and accessibility of information, it is enough just to choose a suitable design with the order and detailed description all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's take a closer look at how to build a brick oven with your own hands.
The furnace starts from the foundation
Even a small brick oven built with your own hands in a country house or in a bathhouse weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to place it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.
The upper cut of the foundation coincides with the level of the subfloor. Need to pay Special attention to ensure that the top plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid distortion of the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove maker.
Two layers of roofing material, glassine or durable construction film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. A steel sheet and a layer of heat insulation are laid on top of the waterproofing (so that the heat does not escape into the foundation). The bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid on this whole “pie” for the future brick oven with your own hands.
Preparation of mortar for stove masonry
Unlike an ordinary wall, a brick stove is built with your own hands not on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. The compositions of mortars for fireclay and ceramic bricks are very different.
Mortar for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Minerals are characterized by high fire resistance and can withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mixture for preparing fire-resistant masonry mortar is usually purchased in retail chains.
Mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared using ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many construction supermarkets.
For 100 pcs. bricks will require about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batches. This is done as follows:
- The clay is soaked in cold water for a day.
- The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each part, respectively.
- All resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.
We test samples:
- roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
- If cracks larger than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is unsuitable.
- With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
- If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, this solution is quite suitable for making a stove with your own hands.
Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good oven clay, the essence of the tests comes down to determining the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.
DIY brick oven for home video
Brick laying technology
The furnace diagram provided below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability when high percentage successful result. A do-it-yourself brick oven is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allocated for the oven is only 0.4 square meters. m. A very small amount of brick is used for construction, so it weighs very little.
Laying the stove begins from the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane under the brick, you can pour a thin layer of washed river or mountain sand. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will serve as an additional heat insulator.
Basics of choosing building materials
The thickness of the mortar between bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the smoothest bricks with same sizes- since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!
On the second row we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. The door is secured with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut into the brick using a grinder for it.
The third row is laid out from fireclay bricks. The grate bars are placed on it after the clay has set.
The fourth row of stoves is laid on edge. If the grate bars do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, ensuring 3 mm gaps on all sides.
When laying a brick stove, it is important to know!
The rear “kick-out” brick is installed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.
On the fifth row, similar to the ash room, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid out flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.
The seventh - ninth rows are laid out flat again. A cast iron hob is placed on top of the ninth row. Asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.
Using a cord to seal masonry
Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay solution will quickly crumble from the thermal expansion of the cast-iron stove.
The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.
After the masonry has completely dried, the “knockout” brick is pulled out and construction debris is removed from the channel. To prevent sand from spilling out from under the stove, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.
Brick stoves for summer cottages video
Choosing pipes for the chimney
The chimney for this stove will be any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm diameter for round section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the combustion chamber grate is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the pipe can be increased by 25-50 cm.
Brick oven finishing
The finished masonry of the stove is whitewashed on the outside with simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. Fat milk can be added to the water as a binder. And regular blue will help prevent yellowness from appearing.
If you are deciding how to build a higher-level stove, choose one of the available options for upgrading it:
- covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
- external metal screen;
- decorative jointing or painting the seams with heat-resistant paint.
Laying with bricks and tiles should be planned in advance, since during the construction process the external elements are connected with the masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and is best left to professional stove makers. Metal screen It is better to install it not closely, but at some distance from the body of the stove. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the rate of heating the room.
Bottom line
Knowing how to build a stove in your home with your own hands, you can provide affordable heating to any small room. The experience gained during the first construction will become the basis for further improvement of this sought-after skill.
Heating cooking ovens brick projects which will be presented below can be called the best option for installation in country cottages and private houses. The functionality of this variety is such that it allows you to heat the room and feed the whole family a delicious lunch. Equipped with an oven, a drying chamber, and sometimes a hot water box, heating and cooking stoves are capable of creating the most comfortable conditions for living in a house without centralized or autonomously arranged amenities.
This type of furnace can have different sizes and design features. Structures can be massive or compact, and, as a rule, the necessary models are selected in accordance with the area of the house. Therefore, it is very important to take into account not only the functional qualities of the heating structure, but also its heat transfer. When choosing a place to build a stove and carry out thermal insulation of a building, it is necessary to take into account the rules of SNiP 41-01-2003 developed by specialists, otherwise problems may arise with organizations that control the fire safety of residential buildings.
When deciding to build a stove yourself, you need to prepare for a labor-intensive and quite long work, since the laying process must take place measuredly and carefully. If you have no experience in the skill of a stove maker, you should strictly adhere to the tips and recommendations that will be given below, as well as carefully study and thoroughly analyze the presented ordering diagrams.
Criteria for choosing the design of a heating and cooking furnace
As mentioned above, many designs of heating and cooking stoves with different performance characteristics have been developed. To this heating device was efficient in operation and met all requirements, it is necessary to pay attention to the following points during its construction:
- Dimensions of the brick structure. When choosing the size of the stove, you need to take into account the fact that its side walls give off more heat than the back and front surfaces.
- Considering the size of the walls and their ability to transfer heat, it is necessary to consider how the stove will be installed. To quickly and efficiently heat a room, the stove is placed with its side facing it, and the cooking chamber is turned towards the kitchen area.
- The shape of the stove can be T-shaped, square, rectangular, and also with a protrusion in the form of a stove or a stove bench. Each of the stoves, when installed correctly, can heat from two to four rooms.
- The heat output of a brick heating structure is selected depending on the area and location of the room that it must heat.
This table shows the dependence of the dimensions of the furnace (the area of its walls) relative to the area and location of the heated room:
| Room area (m²) | Furnace surface (m²) | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two external corners | Hallway | |
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
- For small rooms, you should not choose massive heating structures, since they can be heated by a compact stove. To heat up a massive stove, a large amount of fuel will be required, and such a structure will take quite a long time to warm up.
- The efficiency of the stove will directly depend on how insulated the building is. In a well-insulated house, a small stove will be sufficient, since the walls, floor and ceiling will reliably retain the heat it generates indoors and will reliably protect against the cold trying to penetrate from the outside.
Only after taking into account all these factors do they make a choice in favor of one or another model of heating and cooking stove.
Models of heating and cooking stoves
Design multifunctional models stoves can be different - both with a complex internal configuration of chimney channels, and completely simple. If the laying of the stove will be done by a novice craftsman, then you should not immediately “swing” at complex and incomprehensible structures. Before getting down to work, you need to try to figure out how the heated air, along with combustion products, will pass towards the chimney pipe, since during laying it will be necessary to comply with all row configurations in order to remove the gas exhaust channels correctly.
The most popular models that have a design accessible for masonry are “Swedish”, “Dutch” and a hob. In addition to them, there are heating structures that are named after the names of their developers. Thus, you can find the orders of heating and cooking stoves of Proskurin, Bykov, Porfiryev, Kuznetsov, Podgorodnikov and other craftsmen.
You might be interested in information about how .
Ovens can also be divided according to their shape. So, they can have the following configuration.
- A T-shaped heating and cooking stove is usually massive in size and can be installed in the middle of a large room, dividing it into different zones. Another option is that it is built into the walls between three rooms, fully heating them.
If the house average size, and has no other heating besides the stove, then the T-shaped model will be the best option for him, since he will not have to install and heat several stoves.
- A narrow stove with a protruding hob is less functional, but it takes up much less space. This design is capable of fully heating two rooms, and is therefore perfect for country house Moreover, due to its simple design, even a novice stove maker can probably fold it. The compactness of the structure allows it to be built into the wall between the living room and the kitchen.
This way, the stove will be able to not only heat two rooms at the same time, but also cook dinner. Such a stove is indispensable for a small country house, since it can be heated with dry branches or dead wood, and this stuff can always be found in the nearest forest plantation.
- This oven model has the average size and aesthetic appearance. Although it is not as massive as the “Russian” one, it is equipped with all the functions characteristic of the latter. There is a built-in chamber inside the structure, in which you can not only prepare stews, but also bake aromatic homemade bread. A hob is installed in front of the entrance to the inner chamber.
Using it and the cooking chamber, you can cook several dishes at once. There is a chamber above the hob for drying vegetables and fruits, and it can also be used to store ready-made dishes that need to be kept warm.
The glass door of the firebox has enough big size, so the stove, if desired, can also be used as a fireplace. A bed heated on both sides can serve as an excellent warm bed.
It is good to install such a stove between two rooms that need to be heated. This model - good option For country house, if it is used for living most of the year.
- This model can easily be called a stove-fireplace, and this type of heating structure is usually installed in the middle of the house, only then dividing it into separate rooms. The fireplace insert opens into the living room or bedroom, hob- into the kitchen area, and the back wall is quite capable of heating another small room. Thus, the whole house will be filled with dry and pleasant warmth emanating from the walls of the brick stove.
Most often, heating and cooking stoves have a “winter” and “summer” operation in their design, which allows you to use only the stove and oven in the warm season, without heating the entire massive structure. This feature is convenient because you don’t have to endure the heat from a heated stove when it’s summer weather outside, and it also allows you to save on fuel.
Location of the stove in the house
The location of the planned furnace plays an important role in ensuring quality heating home, as well as the practicality and safety of its use. However, there are other criteria that should be taken into account when choosing a place to install it.
- Most often in small house the stove is installed at the crossroads of the walls dividing the building into separate rooms, as shown in the diagram above.
- If the stove is located close to the entrance, it will create its own different heat a curtain of cold air coming from the street.
- A firebox door opening into the hallway or kitchen will make it possible to easily deliver fuel to it, which means less garbage will end up in the living rooms.
- All walls of the heating structure must be free, that is, not blocked by anything, and should not be adjacent to the wall. This is explained by the fact that for the purposes of safety and proper control, the masonry of the structure requires periodic inspection, preventive maintenance and release cleaning chambers from accumulated burning.
- The foundation of the stove must be reliable and not connected to the main foundation of the house itself. The reason is the different shrinkage rates of the base - it is impossible for one to “pull” the other. These factors must be taken into account for safety reasons, since if deformation of the stove base occurs, then cracks may appear in the seams between the bricks, through which it can penetrate into the premises. carbon monoxide, dangerous not only to health, but also to human life.
- The structure is installed so that the chimney passes between the floor beams, which, in turn, must be insulated from it with heat-resistant material.
- To maintain fire safety, in front of the fireboxes it is necessary to place a platform covered with a heat-resistant material - this can be sheet metal or ceramic tile. Space must also be provided for this site in advance.
Basic elements of the furnace design
When starting to analyze the procedures, it is necessary to have an understanding of the main elements of the furnace design and their purpose, since with such information the internal configuration of the channels and chambers will be more clear.
- The firebox or fuel chamber can be called the “heart” of the stove. Fuel is placed in it, after combustion of which heat fills all the internal channels of the structure, heating the entire structure.
The firebox is separated from the lower ash chamber by a cast-iron grate, through which air is blown, providing draft for heated air and combustion products. The combustion chamber has a hole in its ceiling that connects it with channels through which smoke is directed into the chimney.
- The ash chamber or ash pan is a regulator of the air supply to the firebox and at the same time a collector for ash from the fuel burned in the firebox. This part of the stove must be cleaned periodically to avoid backdraft, which will cause smoke to enter the living space.
- Cleaning chambers with cast iron doors are connected to internal chimney channels and are designed for their regular cleaning. The soot deposited on the walls from the rising smoke eventually falls into the chambers, which must be periodically cleaned, otherwise the draft in the chimney will be reduced.
- Chimney ducts passing inside the structure, in different models have different configurations. They can run vertically and horizontally, covering the entire structure. The heated air, passing through them, gives off heat to the walls of the furnace, which, in turn, radiate it into the room.
Each stove has its own system of internal channels for moving smoke and hot air
- Metal and cast iron elements, such as a water heating tank, hob and oven, are built into the stove masonry according to the diagram and are intended for cooking and heating water.
- If the stove design includes a fireplace insert, then a cast iron grate must be installed in front of it to prevent burning wood from falling out of the hearth.
Materials for constructing a furnace
One of the most important issues is the acquisition of high-quality materials for the construction of a furnace, since the durability and reliability of the structure will depend on them. So, to build a heating and cooking stove you will need:
- Heat-resistant solid red brick. Its quantity depends on the specific model. When purchasing material, you must carefully inspect it - there should be no chips on the edges of the brick, and there should be no serious depressions on the surfaces. This material must be transported very carefully, as it is quite fragile.
Fireclay bricks - for laying out heat-resistant sections of the furnace
- Fireclay brick is used for lining the combustion chamber, as it can withstand temperatures of 1400÷1500 °C. When heated, this material retains a high temperature for a long time due to its density, which means that thanks to it the oven will remain hot longer.
Particular attention is paid to the quality of the masonry mortar
Prices for fireclay bricks
fireclay brick
- For laying bricks you need to select correct composition solution. Or rather, there are usually even several of them used - for different departments of the structure. And yet the main material for fastening bricks is clay-sand mixture. The fireclay walls of the firebox are placed on the same solution, only fireclay is added to it along with quartz sand. For the section of the chimney pipe located on the street, cement mortar is used. To lay the first two rows of the furnace structure, some craftsmen prefer to use a lime mixture.
Choosing and composing the solution correctly is a whole science. Some recommendations of the masters are outlined in a special article on our portal, which talks specifically about.
- Cast iron elements, such as doors, valves, stove, fireplace grate, etc., must be selected not only for their quality, but sometimes also for their decorative design, since they must match the overall exterior of the stove.
- Metal elements - an oven and a water heating tank - will be necessary if they are planned in the design.
- You will need annealed steel wire with a diameter of 4÷5 mm to secure the cast iron elements.
- You need asbestos sheets 5 mm thick or asbestos cord. They are used to create a thermal gap between brick and cast iron (steel) elements.
Now that there is clarity with preliminary planning and the necessary materials, you can move on to studying the order schemes. Next, we will consider the construction of two affordable, functional and compact models that will certainly appeal to novice stove makers.
Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina
This is a heating and cooking stove-fireplace, one of the many variations of the “Swedish” stove, which is quite popular among Russian stove makers and householders. Similar design gained its popularity not only due to its simple ordering scheme, but also due to the rapid heating of surfaces, and therefore the transfer of heat into the premises. In addition, the stove is equipped not only with a hob and an oven, but its design also includes a fireplace function. The successful arrangement of all elements allows it to be installed in such a way that it will be effective for heating two rooms.
Heating and cooking “Swedish” stove-fireplace designed by Ryazankin
Another advantage of this model is its compactness, which allows it to be placed both in a small room and in a spacious room.
This Swedish model has a base size of 1020 × 890 mm and a height of 2170 mm, excluding the height of the chimney pipe. It should be taken into account that one side of the structure will be wider due to the protrusion of the fireplace portal by 130 mm.
The foundation for installing the furnace must be larger than its base, and the sides of the square slab being poured must be 1120 x 1120 mm.
This stove is heated with wood and its power is 3000 kcal/hour. It can effectively heat 32-35 m² of area, which is not bad for such a small structure.
What materials will be needed?
Table of necessary materials for the construction of a fireplace stove:
| Name of material | Size(mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| 250×120×60 | 714 | |
| Blower door | 140×140 | 1 |
| Door for combustion chamber | 210×250 | 1 |
| Door for cleaning chambers | 140×140 | 8 |
| Oven | 450×360×300 | 1 |
| 410×710 | 1 | |
| Grate | 200×300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 3 |
| Steel corner | 50×50×5×1020 | 2 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×920 | 3 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×530 | 2 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×480 | 2 |
| A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars. | 110×700 | 1 |
| Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox | 500×700 | 1 |
| 5 mm thick | 1 |
Table with the order of masonry of a heating and cooking "Swedish" with a fireplace designed by Ryazankin
| Order scheme | |
|---|---|
 | To have a better idea of the masonry scheme of this stove model, the project will be considered in the form of a drawing and in 3D projections, with a detailed description of each of the rows. |
 | The first row consists of 34 bricks and is the basis of the entire structure, so the brick covers it completely, that is, it forms a continuous surface. Installation of this series is carried out on waterproofing material- roofing material laid in 2-3 layers. Since the first row determines the reliability of the entire structure, it must be laid out perfectly straight, having previously verified and marked the corners on the roofing material using a square, ruler and chalk. Next, keeping the diagram at hand and observing the location of the bricks, the masonry is done first dry, and then with mortar. |
 | The second row consists of 30 ½ bricks and, like the first, has a continuous plane. On the side of the future fireplace, metal brackets made from pieces of reinforcement are attached to the brick, onto which the fireplace grate will be welded. If the grille already has brackets, then it is completely fixed to the brickwork. |
 | The third row consists of 19 bricks. At this stage, the walls of the fireboxes and chimney channels are laid. Between the place where the oven will be located and the emerging vertical channel, you must leave at least 170 mm. When laying the walls, openings are left for installing the blower and cleaning doors. Then the doors are installed in place and secured with wire twists, which are embedded in the seams between the rows. Since only the next row can finally fix the wire, the doors are temporarily supported by stacks of bricks. |
 | The fourth row is laid out from 18 bricks. The doors of the blower and cleaning chambers are finally fixed on it. Due to the fact that wire is embedded in the seams between the third and fourth rows, the seams can be two to three millimeters wider. |
 | The fifth row consists of 24 bricks. Above the blower chamber, bricks are laid with grooves cut into them, into which the grate will be placed. In addition, a place for installation is being prepared oven. Front bricks, in the place where it will be installed metal box, are cut off, since their height should be 25 mm. It is recommended to use heat-resistant fireclay bricks to lay out the walls of the firebox. |
 | Before replacing the oven box, it is lined or wrapped with asbestos to create a gap around it for thermal expansion when heated. |
 | On the fifth row, a grate of 200×300 mm and an oven box of 450×360×300 mm are installed. |
 | The sixth row is laid out from 19½ bricks. A combustion chamber is formed on it, on the right and rear walls of which the brick is installed on side part and cut to a height of 75 mm. On the same row, the passage between the oven chamber and the vertical channel is blocked. When laying out the back wall of the fireplace, the bricks move forward 35 mm and are pressed together, forming smooth transition from the extended row to the flat wall. |
 | On the sixth row, the combustion door (210×250 mm) is installed, which is pre-wrapped or lined with asbestos, which creates a gap for the thermal expansion of the metal when it is heated. The fire door is also fixed using twisted wires, which will be embedded in next seam between the rows. |
 | An ordering diagram from rows 7 to 12, which will help you better consider the configuration of the masonry. |
 | The seventh row, consisting of 20 bricks, is laid out according to the diagram. The bricks that form the right and rear walls of the combustion chamber are installed on the side. The bricks on the back wall of the fireplace on this row are also moved forward by 35 mm and cut diagonally to form a single inclined plane. The front part of the fireplace insert is covered with a metal strip measuring 50x530x5 mm - it will become the basis for laying subsequent rows. This element can be laid flat or in a semi-arch - for this, the strip is given the desired shape in advance. |
 | The eighth row consists of 18 bricks. The bricks on the back wall of the fireplace are moved forward by 35 mm and compared, by cutting them diagonally, with the underlying rows. The back wall of the fireplace should be inclined forward to allow smoke to flow smoothly into the chimney opening when wood is burning in the firebox. |
 | The ninth row consists of 20 bricks. When it is laid out, the door of the fuel chamber is closed. The brick that forms the back wall of the firebox is cut at an angle. The brick of the back wall of the fireplace moves forward 20 mm and is trimmed from below so that an even slope without protrusions is formed. The oven box is covered at the front with two steel strips measuring 50x5x480 mm. |
 | 10th row - the front part of the oven is covered with a brick. The brick is laid on metal strips. The combustion chamber and oven space are combined into one common one. A cutout is made in the upper part of the bricks framing both chambers for laying the hob. A place is prepared for installing the door on the cleaning chamber in the upper part of the fireplace. To lay this row, 17 ½ bricks are used. |
 | On the 10th row, a two-burner hob measuring 410×710 mm is installed on the prepared place, then a cleaning door of 140×140 mm is installed and metal corner 50× 50× 5×1020 mm, which will strengthen the front part of the cooking chamber. The cast iron hob is mounted on asbestos laid in the cutout on the top bricks. |
 | The 11th row is made of 18½ bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. Bricks laid on the right must cover the resulting gap of 210 mm between the hob and the right wall. The bricks laid above the firebox are pushed into the chamber by 40 mm and cut from below at an angle, continuing to form the inclined shape of the back wall of the fireplace. |
 | The 12th row is laid out from 18 bricks. It covers the door of the cleaning chamber. The bricks of the front wall of the firebox are shifted inward by 40 mm and cut diagonally. |
 | In this drawing you can clearly see the configuration of the brickwork from rows 13 to 24. Moreover, the diagram even shows the direction of movement of air masses through the chimney ducts. |
 | The 13th row consists of 19 bricks. The elements of the front wall of the fireplace move forward, inside the firebox, by 40 mm and are cut diagonally, compared with the rows below. In addition, the walls of the hob and chimney ducts continue to rise. |
 | 14th row. A shelf begins to form above the fireplace insert. To do this, the bricks laid in this row are moved forward and to the side by 30 mm. It will look like a row of bricks hanging over the firebox. A row will require 19 bricks. |
 | The 15th row is laid out from 20½ bricks. The mantelpiece continues to be laid out on it by moving a row of bricks forward by 30 mm. The removal of the walls of the cooking chamber is completed. |
 | The 16th row consists of 15 ½ bricks. After laying them, the front part of the “ceiling” of the hob is strengthened with an installed steel angle measuring 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 mm, and the middle and rear part of the “ceiling” of the chamber is covered with steel strips measuring 50 × 5 × 920 mm. All metal elements will become the basis for covering the chamber with bricks. The remaining bricks are laid according to the diagram. |
 | 17th row. The cooking chamber is completely covered using 26 bricks. Only two openings for the chimney channels are left. |
 | 18th row. The second continuous row is laid, which consists of 30 bricks. |
 | The 19th row is laid out from 19 ½ bricks. At this stage, the formation of the upper gas outlet channels and cleaning chambers, on which the doors are installed, takes place. The jumper between the fireplace flue and vertical duct is shifted 30 mm to the left. In this case, the lower and upper left edges of the brick are cut off. |
 | 20th row. The lintel, as in the 19th row, is moved to the left another 30 mm, and the lintel brick is also cut obliquely. This row will require 22½ bricks. |
 | 21st row. The doors of the cleaning chambers installed on top of the cooking niche are closed, and a door is installed on another cleaning channel, above the fireplace insert. The chimney opening of the fireplace is narrowed by another 30 mm. The main chimney channel is blocked to the size of ¾ brick, and a “shelf” is formed inside the channel. A row will require 22½ bricks. |
 | 22nd row. In the place where the “shelf” is formed, a place is prepared for the cleaning door at the base of the vertical channel. The jumper between the two channels located above the fireplace is further shifted to the left by 30 mm. After the row is folded, a door is installed on the channel. For a row you need to prepare 22 bricks. |
 | The 23rd row is laid out from 23 bricks. The jumper between the channels is still moving to the left. The cleaning door above the fireplace is covered with brick. |
 | 24th row. A place is being prepared for installing a chimney valve. To do this, special grooves are cut out in the bricks framing the chimney opening. Then, a valve structure having a size of 130x250 mm is installed on the clay solution. To lay this row you will need 22 bricks. |
 | 25th row. A shelf is installed at the base of the chimney duct, and a place is prepared for installing another valve - for the cooking chamber. Then, also on the clay mortar, the valve itself, measuring 130x250 mm, is mounted. A row will require 24 bricks. |
 | Final diagram showing the configuration of the brickwork from rows 25 to 33. |
 | 26th row. At this stage, the openings of the chimney vertical channels are combined in pairs. The opening of the fireplace channel, due to cutting the upper edge of the brick at 45 degrees, is shifted to the center. A place is being prepared to install the cleaning chamber door for the main vertical channel. The main chimney duct is connected to the system of all gas outlets of the furnace. After the row is laid out, a door is installed to clean the chimney. For a row you need to prepare 21 bricks. |
 | 27th row. Continuation of the displacement of the fireplace channel to the center of the structure. In this row, the middle brick, located on the opposite side of the main chimney channel, is cut obliquely, and two bricks shifted onto the channel are cut at an angle of 45 degrees from below. A row will require 21 bricks. |
 | 28th row. The chimneys of the fireplace and stove merge, and the fireplace channel continues to move towards the center. 20 bricks are used for a row. |
 | 29th row. The stove structure is completely blocked, with the exception of the chimney opening, which continues to move towards the center. The brickwork moves beyond the perimeter of the furnace by 25 mm. For masonry you will need 34 ½ bricks. |
 | 30th row. This row, just like the previous one, is shifted by 25 mm, but already in relation to the underlying bricks. The size of the chimney opening is reduced to 130×260 mm. A row will require 36 bricks. |
 | 31st row. The perimeter of the structure returns to the main size of the furnace - this is achieved by shifting the brick inward by 50 mm. When laying out a row, special cutouts are made in the bricks framing it to install the valve on the chimney opening. Then, the valve itself, having a size of 130x250 mm, is mounted in this groove. For a row you will need 27 bricks. |
 | 32nd row. The first row is formed, that is, the base of the superimposed chimney pipe. This will require 5 bricks. |
 | 33rd row of the furnace or second row of pipe laying. It also requires 5 bricks. Well, the pipe structure itself is laid out above. |
These diagrams show sections of the furnace.
Sections - diagram 1
The first shows the direction of movement of smoke from the combustion chamber of the furnace through the chimney channels towards the pipe.
The first diagram clearly shows how the valves are installed on the vertical channels.
Section - diagram 2
The second picture shows the removal of smoke from the fireplace insert into the main chimney pipe, with the dampers open.
Heating and cooking "Swedish" stove
This Swedish model is even more compact than the previous one, since it does not have a fireplace function. This means that its design is simpler, since there is no chimney duct from the fireplace insert.
Compact heating and cooking "Swedish"
The size of this structure is 1020x885x2030 mm, and the power is 2750 kcal/hour, which is enough to heat 30 m². It can be seen that the performance is slightly lower than that of the model discussed earlier. However, such a stove is quite capable of heating two adjacent rooms.
This stove has a convenient arrangement of the main elements, thanks to which it can be placed in the wall between two rooms. For example, combustion part with a hob and oven, it opens into the kitchen, and the large heated surface of the back wall of the oven opens into the living area. By placing the structure in this way, that is, in the thickness of the wall, you can additionally gain space, so the stove will look more compact.
It should be noted that this project was compiled in compliance with certain conditions, upon learning about which many will choose in favor of just such a design.
- The stove was originally designed for heating a country house built from silicate blocks and measuring 4000x7000 mm.
- This heating device is designed to use wood, but it is quite possible to use other types of fuel.
- This design provides only the internal lining of the firebox and adjacent objects. Since the furnace will be built from quality material, external finishing no walls are planned. The refractory brick is hidden inside the structure so that it does not disturb the harmonious appearance of the façade.
- The walls of this model must be thick, and laying bricks on the side (on a spoon) is not allowed.
- A drying chamber must be required in this model.
The result of this development, taking into account the specified criteria, was the furnace, the order of which will be discussed below.
Prices for silicate blocks
silicate blocks
Materials for construction
First you need to decide what materials and in what quantities will be needed for its construction.
Table of necessary materials for the construction of a heating and cooking “Swedish”:
| Name of material | Size(mm) | Quantity (pcs.) |
|---|---|---|
| Red brick (excluding pipe height) | 250×120×60 | 551 |
| Fireproof fireclay brick Sh-8 | 250×124×65 | 31 |
| Blower door | 140×250 | 1 |
| Door for combustion chamber | 210×250 | 1 |
| Door for cleaning chambers | 140×140 | 3 |
| Oven | 450×250×290 | 1 |
| Double burner cast iron stove | 410×710 | 1 |
| Grate | 200×300 | 1 |
| Chimney damper | 130×250 | 1 |
| Steam exhaust valve | 130×130 | 1 |
| Steel corner | 45×45×5×1020 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×700 | 1 |
| Steel strip | 45×45×5×905 | 5 |
| Steel strip | 50×5×650 | 2 |
| Drying rack | 190×340 | 1 |
| Metal sheet covering drying chambers | 800×905 | 1 |
| Pre-furnace metal sheet | 500×700 | 1 |
| Asbestos sheet or rope for laying between metal elements and brick masonry. | 5 mm thick | 1 |
Arrangement of the Swedish heating and cooking stove
| Order scheme | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first row, consisting of 28 red bricks, is traditionally laid out as a continuous plane. It is very important to maintain ideal horizontal masonry and right angles of the base. |
 | The second row is also solid, but the configuration of the bricklaying differs from the bottom one, since the seams between the bricks of the first row must be overlapped by the solid surface of the second brick (tied together). This row will require 28½ red bricks. |
 | Third row. The blower chamber and the lower heating chamber, as well as vertical channels, begin to form. On the same row, three doors are installed on the cleaning chambers, as well as on the blower. In the internal structure of the row, two solid bricks and two three-quarter bricks are installed on the edge. In addition, a quarter of fireclay brick is installed at the entrance to the first chimney channel. For a row, 19 red and ¼ fireclay bricks are used. |
 | In the fourth row, all the chambers mentioned above continue to form. Both in the second and third rows, and in the fourth, the vertical channels are combined. For the row you should prepare 14½ red and ½ fireclay bricks. |
 | Fifth row. At this stage, all doors installed at the entrances to channels and chambers are closed. The bottom of the combustion chamber is lined with fireclay bricks. In the middle opening of the bottom part of the firebox, a step is cut out of refractory bricks on which the grate will be laid. For a row, 16 red and 8 fire bricks are used. |
 | Sixth row. A firebox door is installed, which is temporarily supported by loose bricks, as well as an oven box wrapped in asbestos. The inner walls of the fuel chamber and the base for the oven are made of fireclay bricks. It must be taken into account that the wall of refractory bricks erected between the fuel chamber and the oven should be a quarter of the brick. On the same row, the second and third vertical channels are separated from each other. For a row, 13 red and 6½ fireclay bricks are used. |
 | This figure shows the same sixth row - installing the oven. When installing it, we must not forget about the thermal gap for the expansion of the metal when it is heated - this can be provided by a layer of asbestos. The box can be wrapped with asbestos rope or covered with sheets cut to size. |
 | Seventh row. Chambers continue to be formed from two walls - an internal fire-resistant one and an external one made of red brick laid flat. For a row you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks. |
 | Eighth row. At this stage, the first chimney channel is closed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme using 13 red and 5 fireclay bricks. |
 | Ninth row. The fire door is closed, and the rest of the masonry is carried out according to plan. For a row, 13½ red and 5 fireclay bricks are used. |
 | Tenth row. The oven is covered with brickwork. The top row of the wall between the firebox and the oven is not laid out. In the internal walls, lined with fireclay bricks, framing the upper space, 10 mm cutouts are made for mounting the hob. A row will require 15 red and 4½ fireclay bricks. |
 | Next, the hob is placed on the same row. You should also make a gasket under it from asbestos rope. The slab must be in the same plane with the walls of the structure. A metal corner is placed on the front wall, in front of the hob, which will protect the edge of the brick from chipping and secure the top row. |
 | 11th row. The walls of the cooking chamber begin to form. The gap between the slab and the wall of the structure on the right side is filled with brick. To lay this row you will need 16½ red bricks. |
 | 12th row - the masonry is carried out according to the diagram, and 15 red bricks are used for it. |
 | The 13th and 14th rows are laid out of red brick according to the pattern indicated in the order, taking into account the interlocking masonry. To work you will need: for the 13th row -15½, and for the 14th row 14½ bricks. |
 | The 15th and 16th rows are also placed according to the same pattern. For the 15th row you need 15½, and for the 16th row - 14½ red bricks. |
 | 16th row. After the row has been removed, the cooking chamber is covered with three metal corners (45x45x905 mm), which are mounted in the middle and end of the chamber, and its edge is strengthened with a corner having dimensions of 45x45x700 mm. In the middle of the opening, two corners are placed, with vertical shelves facing each other. Thus, a reliable basis is obtained for covering the chamber with bricks. |
 | The 17th row is laid out from 25½ bricks. It blocks the camera space. In this case, an exhaust hole from the cooking chamber is formed in the surface, the size of which is half a brick. In addition to it, the walls of the channels located in the rear part of the furnace are laid out. |
 | The 18th row is laid solid. Only the chimney and exhaust duct remain open. The next step is to install a corner with dimensions of 45x45x905 mm on the front edge of the ceiling. The ceiling, reinforced on both sides, will securely hold two rows of brickwork. This row will require 25 red bricks. |
 | 19th row. At this stage, two drying chambers are formed - large and small, as well as a ventilation channel that will remove steam from the cooking chamber. To lay this row you need to prepare 16 red bricks. |
 | Row 20 is laid out according to a pattern of 16 red bricks. |
 | The 21st and 22nd rows also have a similar configuration, tied together. For the 21st row, 16½ are used, and for the 22nd row, 16 red bricks are used. On the 22nd row, the small drying chamber is covered in the front part with a metal plate 190x340 mm. |
 | 23rd row. The walls of drying chambers and smoke exhaust channels continue to form. Above ventilation duct a cutout is made in the brick - a seat for a valve that will regulate the temperature of the cooking chamber. Then, a valve measuring 140x140 mm is installed in the prepared cutout. To work you will need 17 red bricks. |
 | 24th row. The work proceeds according to the scheme - the ventilation valve is closed, the first and second chimney channels are combined. To lay this row, you need to prepare 15½ bricks. |
 | 25th row. At this stage, the ventilation and three vertical smoke exhaust channels are combined into one channel. A row will require 15½ red bricks. |
 | The 26th row is laid according to a pattern of 16½ red bricks. |
 | Next, on the 26th row, the basis is made for the subsequent covering of the drying chambers. For this, a metal corner measuring 45×45×905 and two steel strips 50×5×650 mm are used. The corner is mounted on the edge of the drying chambers and creates a rigid base for covering them with a metal sheet and a row of bricks. |
 | Then, a metal sheet measuring 800×905 mm is placed on top of the installed jumpers, which covers the entire cross-sectional surface of the stove, leaving only the third vertical chimney channel free. |
 | 27th row. In this row, the metal sheet is covered with solid brickwork, which protrudes 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the stove. The hole in the chimney duct remains free in the left corner. The ceiling will require 32 red bricks. |
 | The 28th is the second row of complete overlap of drying chambers with a hole for the chimney. It is laid with a projection beyond the perimeter of the previous row by 25 mm. To lay it you will need 37 red bricks. |
 | The 29th row consists of 26½ red bricks, which are laid with a 50 mm indent from the previous row towards the center. That is, it turns out to be a rectangle of the same size around the perimeter as the entire main structure of the furnace. |
 | The 30th row of the structure is the first row of the mounted chimney pipe. It consists of 5 red bricks. In the upper part of this row, cutouts with a depth of 10 mm are made - this will be a seat for the main chimney valve, having a size of 250x130 mm. When the place is ready, a valve structure is installed in it on a clay mortar. |
 | 31st row - the second row of pipe closes the installed valve. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Next, the chimney pipe is laid out upward. |
The diagram below shows the flow of heated air through the chimney vertical channels, with the help of which the entire brick construction, including an oven.
Today there are many options for heating a dacha: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters.
But if all this is not possible to implement due to the area’s remoteness from civilization, a DIY brick stove for a summer house will become great solution.
Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of household members, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.
The services of a good stove maker are not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick stove project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the operating principle, features and layout of the stove structure.
A brick stove can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior if it is used correctly. Today there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone stove.
No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove designs and no matter how far home heating technologies have come, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood burns out.
According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:
- heating;
- cooking;
- multifunctional;
- combined.
- combustion chamber, which is purchased already in finished form, or laid out with fireclay bricks;
- an ash pit where ashes are collected;
- chimney.
This type of design also includes a fireplace with an open or closed firebox. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room of 15-20 square meters. meters.
Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.
Most popular view The stove is a one-brick construction. This allows the walls to be heated to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.
In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and broad, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of the room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.
Tiled tiles are usually used for lining such a stove. decorative plaster, decorative rock.
Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner will not be able to implement this option, since it requires great experience. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly at 60 0.
Round stoves, which are laid out according to the design of the famous Russian furnace engineer V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace operates on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is lined sheet metal. Such a stove can heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.
The design of the stove consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).
- A heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.
This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:
- combustion chamber;
- chimney;
- ash pan;
- hob;
- oven.
The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for dachas where there is no other heating option.
In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and prepare a delicious dinner for the whole family.
It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes in this chamber.
By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots in one night.
Many heating and cooking stove schemes have additional accessories in the form of a comfortable bed, drying firewood, oven, water heating tank.
Construction of a stove for a summer residence and its features
The main elements of any brick stove for a summer residence are:
10 basic rules for laying a country stove
Which brick stove to choose for your dacha?
The choice of stove design determines the size and type of room. For large cottages you will need a massive furnace structure with thick walls, which will take a long time to heat up, but at the same time can long time maintain temperature. Building such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.
But even a beginner can handle a small stove for heating a small dacha if you strictly follow the diagram and do not change the laying rules.
The first place in the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily taken by the Swede, which enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove makers.
This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface and a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.
For the location of such a stove, the place most often chosen is between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.
Today you can find hundreds of various schemes laying a Swedish stove with a hob, so it will not be difficult to implement it for a summer residence. Many stove makers contributed to standard scheme masonry is an additional option, so each design is named after its creator: Buslaev’s, Kuznetsov’s stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.
Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky, massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious bench.
This stove is not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place for relaxation. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, and has a beneficial effect on the human body, thanks to which the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.
The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the oven, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and there are no particularly strict requirements for the materials for laying a Russian stove.
A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by the little V.A. Potapova, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. To lay it, you need only 211 bricks, and the dimensions of the stove are only 630 * 510 mm.
Moreover, this little thing contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This type of stove would be an excellent solution for a small garden house or one-room cottage.
In this article, we invite you to study the rules and main points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.
Do-it-yourself stove laying
Step 1. Select a brick and prepare tools
Which brick to choose for laying a small country stove? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (at least M-150). You should not skimp on materials; the further performance properties, safety and efficiency of the furnace depend on this.
Fireclay brick can be easily recognized by its yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and crumbs. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely died out, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.
Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber must be made exclusively of this material.
The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which are created by aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.
But it’s also not worth laying out the entire stove from fireclay bricks; the outer part of the structure doesn’t get very hot, and it looks red ceramic brick more attractive.
When choosing bricks for the stove, pay attention to color and shape.
You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters and it doesn’t break, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can split into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when falling.
The brand of brick for lining the furnace should be M150 or M200. The number in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1cm 3 .
Do not use sand-lime or hollow bricks. It's not even a matter of the ability to withstand high temperatures - they can handle that. Sand-lime brick It conducts heat poorly and a room with such a stove will not be very comfortable.
For masonry mortar you will need sand, red oven clay and water. The appearance and durability of the oven directly depends on its quality and consistency. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. When frozen, it should not fall off or crumble.
The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in which case the precious heat will not escape quickly.
You can also use ready-made masonry mortar, which is sold in stores. Usually it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.
The consistency of this solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, you need to add more dry mixture. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.
So, to build a furnace, we will need the following materials:
- Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
- Red ceramic brick M150 – 120 pieces.
- Fireclay bricks – 40 pieces.
- Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
- Ruberoid.
- Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
- Plywood or boards for creating formwork.
- Reinforcing mesh for foundation construction.
- Grate.
- Metal stove for one burner (cast iron).
- Ash pan and ash pan (blower) door.
- Cast iron firebox door.
- Chimney duct damper.
- Chimney view.
- Metal chimney cap.
Tools needed to build a furnace.
- Building level.
- Shovel
- Construction marker.
- Goniometer.
- Spatula, rule.
- Master OK.
- Measuring tape (roulette).
- Construction plumb.
Important! When laying a furnace, much depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which has been on outdoors at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can handle in “1 go”. The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.
Step 2. Preparing bricks for laying the stove
Before starting to lay the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the bricks in advance and prepare them according to the ordering scheme.
This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts and cutting off the corners.
Study the diagram carefully and see which pieces of bricks you will need for each row.
If necessary, you can number the brick so that later it is easy to navigate which row to insert it into.
How to properly split a brick? Before “beating off” the required part of the brick, according to the diagram, you first need to make a groove. This can be done using a hacksaw or file.
To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.
For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, make a groove on all sides of the brick.
Step 3. Choosing a location for the oven
This is very important stage in laying the furnace, which is advisable to do even at the stage of building a house.
But there are times when the decision to lay a stove arises among home owners already in the process of using the dacha. In this case, determine the place where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.
It is also important to evaluate the distance between the stove and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.
In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.
The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.
- The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
- The chimney must not pass through beams.
- The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
- It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.
An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, unless there is an entrance door opposite the corner, from which cold air will blow out the flame.
Step 4. Construction of the foundation
To build a brick kiln, it is necessary to make a separate foundation. If it is laid during the same cycle as the construction of a house, completing it is not a difficult task.
If you decide to lay the stove after completion general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deeper into the ground.
Why is it so important to perform a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight, which will create a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape or design of the stove.
That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of its technical properties.
Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out all the bricks “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you will be able to see at the draft stage difficult moments, which will require special attention.
Step 5. Laying the stove
Attention! Before laying the stove, place the bricks in a bowl of cold water so that they absorb moisture. This way they will not draw water from the masonry mortar.
Fill this gap with sand. The entire area under the stove will be practically occupied by grates, which will ensure good and easy care of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.
We block the ash door with a brick.
Installation of the combustion door
We install the combustion door, having previously wrapped it with asbestos cord. To make it easier to install, place the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.
- 6th row. Closes the furnace door.
Here we begin to form a smoke channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.
We lay the base of the firebox, which is made of fireclay bricks.
- From rows 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the diagram.
In this row, two bricks covering the grate should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Row 10 - cover the oven. We create a partition from brick, raising it by 2 cm. Apply a clay-sand mortar to the oven, to the level of the partition. We are preparing a place for installing a hob.
It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately place the slab on a dry surface and number the bricks - this will make it easy for you to later lay the brick on the mortar and avoid making mistakes with the correct recesses for the slab.
We lay an asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).
Step 6. Exit the chimney through the roof
This is a responsible step that should ensure complete safety of the furnace operation.
Follow the SNIP standards when installing a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.
Insulation is required around the pipe passage through the roof. thermal insulation materials. This will ensure reliable protection from blowing cold air and will provide reliable fire safety.
If the stove is being installed in an already residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After installing the pipe, you will need to completely ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.
To waterproof a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of slate and metal plate is done using sealant.
If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to make using steel sandwich pipes. They have a stylish look and are easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than brick and will not create as much pressure on the foundation.
Defining required height chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.
The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of draft directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.
The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.
We complete the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.
We put a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.
Step 7. Furnace lining
There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer cottage.
As decorative material clinker tiles, tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used.
Or you can simply leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought high-quality, beautiful brick.
Please note that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the oven thin layer decorative plaster.
Step 8. Lighting the stove
After completely lining the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.
When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test firing of the stove. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, light the firewood.
Premature lighting of a damp stove can cause it to crack. For the first time, use ¼ of the firewood, add small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.
- Do not use trash for kindling.
- The firebox door must be closed when lighting.
- Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately turn on high heat.
- Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.
For ease of use country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.
As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to build a beautiful and high-quality country stove.
Video: Laying a brick kiln “dry”
Below we provide detailed master class on laying a brick stove for a summer cottage.
Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence