In northern latitudes and the middle zone, peppers are planted in May-June, depending on weather conditions, after the end of spring frosts. Usually, after planting tomatoes, they begin to plant peppers.

Good predecessors of pepper: perennial herbs, melons, pumpkin, carrots, onions, cabbage, zucchini.

Bad predecessors of pepper: tomato, eggplant, potato.

• Preparing the soil for peppers in spring. (About a week before planting the peppers). For digging add (per 1 m2):
• potassium sulfate (1 teaspoon),
• superphosphate (1 tablespoon),
• wood ash (1 cup),
• half a bucket of last year's compost or humus

An alternative may be ready-made complex mineral fertilizers.

! Pepper does not tolerate chlorine very well.

This must be taken into account when using fertilizers. For example, chlorine-free fertilizer potassium sulfate. After applying fertilizer, dig up the soil shallowly, loosen and level it, and sprinkle with warm water. Cover with transparent plastic film. Within a week the ground will warm up well and now you can start planting.

! We must remember: that pepper flowers are capable of self-pollination and cross-pollination, so peppers should not be planted next to each other different varieties. For example, sweet and bitter. This will affect the taste of the fruit.

Pepper seedlings are ready for planting when plants have 7-8 true leaves, 15-25 cm tall, when buds begin to form.

Planting peppers necessary in a greenhouse. Do this in the evening.

• Plant plants at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other, half a meter between rows.
• The holes are made large enough to plant the plant along with a lump of earth from the pot. Spill generously with water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
• After the liquid in the hole is absorbed, deepen the seedling slightly, sprinkle with soil and water again.
• For the first 10 days, the pepper will “sore” and grow slowly, during which time it will take root root system. It is necessary to do shallow loosening.
• Two weeks after planting the seedlings, the pepper will begin to bloom. At this time, the plants need to be fed.

1 feeding:

• superphosphate (40 g), ammonium nitrate (30 g), potassium sulfate (20 g) per 10 liters of warm water;
• superphosphate no more than 5 (g), urea (10 g) per 10 liters of water. Water 1 liter of solution under each root;
• complex mineral fertilizers;

A month after planting the seedlings, the peppers will begin to form ovaries and fruits. It is at this time that plants need a second feeding, which requires more nitrogen and potassium.

2 feeding:

• - nettle infusion;
• - bird droppings (solution 1:15 with exposure for 5 days) or;
• - mullein (solution 1:10 with exposure for 7 days);
• -wood ash (one liter per root);
• -superphosphate (30 g), potassium sulfate (1 teaspoon) per 10 liters of water - 1 liter per root.

With abundant fruiting, peppers need a third feeding.

3 feeding: identical in composition to the second.

! We must remember:

• If the soil is rich in phosphorus, then you should not get carried away with superphosphate.
• When applying fertilizers, do not exaggerate the dosage. Pepper fruits tend to accumulate nitrates.
• When applying fertilizers: water the plants before and after fertilizing. Make sure that the fertilizer liquid does not get on the leaves, ovaries and flowers. In case of contact, rinse with water.
• Foliar feeding is not recommended.
• In cold and cloudy weather, plants require more potassium.
• A good result will be obtained by alternating the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. If organic matter was added to the first fertilizing, then mineral fertilizers were added to the second, and vice versa.

Pepper care:

Water should be once a week, but this is before flowering. If it's hot, water 2 times a week. During flowering, water 3 times a week. Be sure to monitor the condition of the surface layer of soil. Excessive moisture harms plants no less than lack of moisture.

You just need to water warm water in the pre-lunch hours. This is a very important condition.

Relative humidity in a greenhouse should remain between 60-70%. Therefore, after each watering the greenhouse must be ventilated.

With increased humidity, plants begin to suffer from powdery mildew, macrosporiosis, gray mold, and the fruits become small.

At low humidity, ovaries, flowers and buds fall off.

Pepper is sensitive to sharp fluctuations in daily temperature and overheating. Massive falling of flowers and ovaries begins.

Don't forget to chop the pepper.

• When the pepper reaches a height of 25-30 cm, pinch the top of the plant.
• Young shoots at the bottom of the bush need to be removed.
• Leave no more than five shoots at the top.
• On the remaining shoots, remove newly emerged young shoots.
• Shoots on which ovaries do not develop, damaged or diseased, pinch out.
• Be sure to remove yellow leaves.
• It is better not to prick up sick bushes, but to wait for the bush to strengthen and prick up later.

Loosen the soil When growing peppers, it is not recommended due to the proximity of the roots to the surface. In this case, the soil is mulched with earth, grass or, best of all, rotted straw (10 cm layer). Due to this, the top layer of soil will not cake, which will increase free access of air to the roots of plants, retain a sufficient amount of moisture and reduce the frequency of watering to 1 time in 10 days.

Pollination During the flowering period, it is done by daily, light shaking of the bushes.

Fruit collection begin in the technical maturity phase. The fruits have reached the appropriate size, but are still green. Or in the phase of physiological maturity. The fruits took on the appropriate color (yellow, red) and the seeds ripened in them.

Great( 6 ) Badly( 1 )

Which gardener wouldn’t want to grow such a tasty crop? Planting pepper seedlings is an important step on the path to harvest. If gardeners of the 20th century believed that it was a warm-climate crop and that it was simply impossible to grow it in northern conditions, now a rare garden plot can do without this crop, no matter what region it is located in. Promotes a good harvest proper cultivation pepper seedlings, planting. This crop grows well in the Moscow region, Non-Black Earth Region, Siberia, and of course, in our Kuban. So, the beginning of everything is seeds.

Stages of growing pepper seedlings - preparing seeds, soil, planting, caring for seedlings, picking, fertilizing, watering, hardening before planting in the ground or greenhouse. There are sweet and hot peppers, there are low-growing and tall varieties. Now, through the efforts of scientific breeders, various varieties and hybrids have been developed that are suitable for winter cultivation, planting in spring film greenhouses or open ground.

Peppers, in my opinion, are not difficult to grow. It is not susceptible to such complex diseases as, for example, late blight, which is difficult to combat, so it can be grown both in open ground and in film greenhouses. Peppers usually succeed in any year, no matter what it is - hot, rainy or cold - sometimes better, sometimes worse, but it never happens that there are none at all.

Seed preparation

Where do you need to start to grow good seedlings? You need to start with seeds.

Pepper seeds remain viable for only 2-3 years. These are rather difficult to germinate seeds. If tomato seeds can be germinated or not - they germinate just fine anyway, then it is advisable to germinate pepper seeds before planting.

What do I need to do? You can use low containers, such as a saucer. Place a small layer of cotton wool, or gauze, or filter paper, or any fabric on the bottom. Place the seeds on top.

You can fill them with just water, or you can fill them with a solution wood ash(1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water). Of course, you will need much less water than a liter - gauze, cotton wool, cloth or paper just need to be well moistened. The layer of water should be minimal. Seeds should not float.

Why do I mention ash? Ash is potassium. And this element is required when growing and planting peppers. If there is a shortage of it, future ovaries will crumble, there will be few of them, the leaves will be pale and thin. In short, the plants will not have enough nutrition.

After soaking, the saucer should be placed in a warm place. The temperature for germinating pepper seeds should be 25-30°C. To provide the necessary microclimate, the saucer can be covered with cling film, while providing sufficient air space so that the seeds have something to breathe. Seeds take a long time to germinate - usually 10-14 days. But some seeds that have good germination energy can germinate in 5 days. So please be patient.

After the seeds have swelled and some of them have already sprouted, you can begin planting.

Preparing the soil for seedlings

Now let's talk about what kind of soil should be for growing seedlings. Pepper loves it very much organic fertilizers. Therefore, when preparing the soil for it, try to use very good compost. You can add a little rotted manure there. As for fertilizers, the soil must contain dolomite flour(100-150 g per bucket of soil), because pepper does not tolerate acidic soil at all. You can add complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira Universal, or nitroamophoska at the rate of 50-70 g per bucket of soil. After all these additions, do not forget to mix everything thoroughly, carefully rubbing all the lumps. You will essentially have “living soil” that will give strength to your plants.

I advise you to first sow the seeds in small containers and then plant them in larger pots.

In the first containers, the soil depth should be at least 5-7 cm. Before planting, thoroughly water the soil with a hot solution of potassium permanganate Pink colour. Then we make grooves 0.5 cm deep with a distance between them of 3-4 cm. After this, we proceed to planting. We try to place the seeds evenly, 1 cm apart from each other. If conditions and capacity allow, they can be spread out less frequently. It is advisable to sow seeds of the same variety in each container and write the name so as not to confuse them later.

Planting pepper seedlings

After laying out the seeds, we begin to plant them. You can use the same moist soil, or you can mix part of the previously prepared soil with sand (1:1) and sprinkle the seeds on top so that the soil is light on top - nothing will prevent them from germinating.

We also place the container with the sown seeds in a very warm place (25-28°C). I usually cover a bowl with sown seeds with cling film - I create a microclimate that is pleasant for them. Before the shoots appear, you can place the container on a heating radiator. Just place it not on a bare battery, but on a board so that there is no direct contact with hot metal.

As soon as the first shoots have appeared, even if not all of them have appeared, you need to remove the film and place the container in a bright place. For me it's usually a windowsill. After all, pepper is a very light-loving plant. Seedlings do not stretch as much as tomatoes. If you have southern windows, then you don’t even need to give them additional lighting. But, if the conditions are different or the weather is cloudy, additional lighting is required. Seedlings should receive light at least 12 hours a day. Pepper plant short day. Additional lighting should be started in the morning, for example, it will be 9 am, and turned off after 21.00, in the evening, but not later. Comfortable temperature for them 20-25°C during the day and 18-20°C at night.

If you sow the seeds in well-prepared soil, then no fertilizing is required at first. And if the soil is purchased, you are not sure whether it is of high quality, then I advise you to do the following feeding if you have 1-2 real leaves: 1) urea -1 g, double superphosphate - 4 g, potassium sulfate -1 g per 1 liter of water; or 2) Crystallin (solution) - 4 g also per 1 liter of water.

Picking pepper seedlings

As soon as the seedlings have the 3rd or 4th true leaves, you can start picking. Containers for this can be very different - peat-humus pots, large plastic glasses or special seedling pots. The most important thing is that their volume should be at least 500 ml.

We fill the picking containers with very wet soil, but not to the top, but leave about 3-4 cm free. We make a depression in the center and place the seedling inside. Carefully straighten the roots and sprinkle with soil up to about the middle of the cotyledon. But if the plant does stretch out, then to the cotyledon leaves.

Now we install the pots on the window. As the plants grow, the pots should be spaced out sparser so that they do not shade each other. The key to ensuring that your pepper seedlings are healthy and doing well is appearance: young leaves at the top are always lighter than the old ones, which have a dark green appearance. This means that your plants are doing great after planting.

The air regime for seedlings is very important. Pepper really does not like soil compaction, so be sure to periodically loosen the top layer of the pot.

Pepper seedlings are very often affected by a disease such as “blackleg”. Therefore, try, firstly, to plant it in warm, not cold soil, and water it only with warm water. And, secondly, after picking around the stem, sprinkle a small layer of calcined sand, about 0.5 cm. The sand allows moisture to pass through it well, it goes deeper to the roots, and the tree trunk circle remains dry. These measures will protect your seedlings from blackleg.

Growing pepper seedlings - feeding and watering

What are the features of caring for pepper seedlings? She really loves organic fertilizers. If you have this opportunity, use it. You can feed the seedlings every 10 days with a complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira Universal.

What other fertilizing can be done? Pickled seedlings are very fond of foliar feeding. What's the best way to do this? Good fertilizer That's what the Kemira Combi is for. This fertilizer has the form of a pink powder, highly soluble in water. Let's take it plastic bottle, for example, 1 liter volume with a regular household sprayer. For this volume of water, enough powder on the tip of a teaspoon (0.1-0.2 g). This fertilizer contains 17 microelements, as well as phosphorus and potassium. Water for spraying should be warm - 20-25°C. Outside root feeding It is best to do it early in the morning before the sun's rays illuminate the plants. When spraying, try to moisten the leaves not only from above, but also from below.

Foliar feeding must be alternated with watering nutrient solutions with potassium and calcium nitrate - every 10 days (calcium nitrate - 1 g, potassium nitrate - 1 g per 1 liter of water).

If you notice that the leaves have acquired a slightly yellowish color, then they lack nitrogen. Therefore, when feeding, use urea (2-3 g per 1 liter of water).

Try not to let the soil become too dry or waterlogged. Try to water the seedlings with warm, settled water.

Uneven, infrequent watering leads to weakening of seedlings, which begin to shed their leaves from lack of moisture. The trunk begins to become woody ahead of time, the plant forms only one trunk, looks depressed, flowering and fruit formation are delayed, and the yield drops.

On the contrary, waterlogging contributes to excessive compaction of the soil; the root system of pepper seedlings stops working and feeding the plant. Remember how I said above that a healthy plant has dark green leaves on the lower and middle layers, and light green leaves on the top? And when overwatered, the leaves of the entire plant become dark green. This indicates that the plant is not feeling well—you did something wrong when planting or caring for it.

Pepper pests

But the main problem for those who grow pepper seedlings is pests. The most famous of them is aphids. If you have others at home houseplants, then it will be practically impossible to grow peppers without aphids. What methods are there to control aphids? I will not advise you to use chemical means of control, because, in my opinion, this is completely unacceptable at home.

Let's look at folk remedies.

First remedy: take 25 g of ash or the same amount of tobacco dust per 1 liter of water. Leave the solution for 3-4 days. Strain. Add 3-4 g of liquid laundry soap. Spray the pepper seedlings with a sprayer.

The second remedy will help control pests not only at home, but also in garden plot Same. Take 250 g of fresh pine needles. Grind it up. Infuse in 1 liter of water for a week, preferably in the dark. Then take 30-50 g of infusion, dilute it with one liter of water. The solution for treating your plants against aphids is ready.

Third way. Take the peel of one orange, infuse it in one liter of water in dark place one week. Strain, add 3-4 g of liquid laundry soap. This solution is also good for treating seedlings or pepper plants against aphids.

But I warn you, no matter what method you choose, processing alone is not enough. You need to do 2-3 treatments.

The age of pepper seedlings before planting in greenhouse soil or open ground is 60-70 days. It can even be planted blooming or with buds.

Formation of plants

Now let's talk about the formation of sweet peppers. When the seedlings reach the age of 75-80 days from germination, you can begin to form bushes.

Very often, pepper fruits are formed in an irregular, ugly shape. This occurs at elevated air temperatures. If the pepper grows in a greenhouse, ventilate it more often. And if it is open ground, then look, perhaps your bushes are too thick, have several empty shoots that interfere with the ventilation of the bushes.

Until the 10th leaf, the pepper grows in one stem. And then the stem bifurcates. The next branch of each of these branches also forms two stems. That is, above 11-12 leaves, 4 skeletal branches appear. If you look closely, you will see that in addition to these skeletal branches there are even smaller branches that can grow into or out of the plant. Usually these are empty shoots that will never produce fruit, but they will shade, thicken the middle of the bush, and then take away nutrients from the fruit. They must be ruthlessly removed. Even if these shoots have buds or flowers, but they go inside the plant, break them off. They won't be of any use.

Hardening off pepper seedlings

Before planting, 10-15 days before, seedlings should be hardened off. You need to start hardening at a temperature of 14-15°C, gradually lower it, to about 12°C - but not lower.

After planting pepper seedlings on permanent place When it takes root, periodically inspect the plants, remove the lowest leaves - two or three leaves every 2-3 days.

In order for the seedlings to take root better when transplanted, especially if they are old plants with flowers and buds, it is better to do the following root feeding. A week after planting, you need to take 50-80 g of azofoska per 10 liters of water + 2 caps liquid fertilizer Uniflor-growth, containing 18 microelements that are very necessary for plant growth. Pour this solution over the peppers at the root. For 2-3 plants - one liter of solution.

It must be said that planting pepper seedlings and growing them is a creative process. Do this only when you feel like it, when you have good mood. And you will definitely have a good harvest.

Sweet peppers have long become very popular among gardeners and summer residents. Growing plants during the growing season is quite simple; a novice amateur can handle it.

The chemical composition of pepper fruits amazes with the variety of vitamins and minerals it contains.

Great content ascorbic acid increases the body's immunity to colds and serves as a natural antioxidant. Vitamin P (rutin) increases the elasticity of the walls of large blood vessels and capillaries. Red pepper contains iron, which is very important for raising blood hemoglobin. Vitamin A, entering the body with food, improves vision and skin condition.

Preparing seeds for growing seedlings

Seed treatment:

Preparing the soil for sweet pepper seedlings:

• While waiting for the seeds to germinate, they prepare the land. Experienced gardeners Prepare this mixture yourself. Take two parts of compost, which is well rotted or humus, add two more volumes of peat and one portion of clean sand.
• Any impurities are removed from the finished mixture, sifted to remove large fractions and calcined for half an hour in an oven or double boiler. This operation allows you to kill all types of microbes and destroy weed spores.
• You can use ready-made soil sold in the store. It is mixed in half with garden soil from the place where the pepper seedlings will be grown.

Sowing and growing seedlings

Pepper seeds for seedlings are planted in plastic cups or small bags. When planting in plastic, the containers must be washed with potassium permanganate, dried and filled with prepared soil, not reaching the top by 1.5 cm. The seeds are laid out on the surface 1-2 cm apart. Keep distance for freedom of growth hatched seedlings.

Some summer residents use bags because when transferring sprouts to large containers, there is no need to remove them from the glass with the risk of damaging the roots, but simply unroll the bag and place it in the desired space.

Place the bags or glasses in a common container (box), lightly water them and cover them transparent material, impermeable to moisture. This is necessary to maintain a humid microclimate. The box is installed in a room with a temperature of 25-27ºС.

After the first shoots appear above the surface of the earth, the temperature in the room is reduced and maintained at 15ºС. To prevent the seedlings from being drawn to the light in one direction, they are constantly turned to the sun's rays on different sides. Make sure that there is no accumulation on the pallet under the bags. excess moisture. The covering is removed when the sprouts are strengthened and leveled.

Feeding and growing seedlings

Before the first cotyledon leaves appear, the plant uses those nutrients that were provided by nature in the seed. But in the further cultivation of seedlings it is necessary to fertilize in the form of watering nutrient solutions.

When using single superphosphate as an irrigation, it is diluted in two tablespoons per bucket of water, the amount of double preparation is reduced to one spoon per 10 liters. The solution is supplemented with a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and urea.

Use ready-made, commercially available complex fertilizers “Master” (for the root system) and “Plantafol” for green seedlings. To stimulate their growth, the drug “Radifarm” is used after 10 days. Water for irrigation is used from a tap or melted water. Standing time before use is at least one day.

Stronger seedlings Three days before the picking operation, they are fed with saltpeter, which is dissolved in a ratio of 1 g per 1 liter of water.

Before planting the picked seedlings in the ground, they are fed with Previkur fertilizer four days before. Hardening off of seedlings begins two weeks before transplanting into natural conditions. To do this, take the container with picked plants out onto Fresh air, remembering to cover it from direct sunlight and from wind and drafts.

Picking pepper seedlings

Diving is the transplantation of plants into large containers for the free development of the root system. At the same time, pinch the end of the main central root so that it does not grow in length, but produces branched lateral shoots for better coverage of the nutrient space.

Picking is already in progress after the first leaf on the trunk. Seating is done in separate disposable glasses with a volume of 200 ml. The plant is carefully separated from the total mass, holding it by the leaves and not by the trunk, which can lead to the death of the seedling. The root is reduced by approximately one third of its length. It is this length that will allow the further development of a powerful fibrous root system.

The composition of the soil is the same as for planting seeds. You don’t have to sift the mixture so that large soil particles allow the roots of the seedlings to penetrate more freely into all layers. When transplanting, first make a hole in a new glass, then carefully transfer the sprout into it, following the direction of the roots. They should look down; if necessary, they can be straightened for this purpose.

Some experienced gardeners Secondary picking of seedlings is carried out two to three weeks after the first.

Planting finished seedlings in open ground

When the seedlings are fully strengthened and the first buds begin to form, they are transplanted to an open area. Pepper is a heat-loving plant, so it can be replanted only if the outside air temperature has reached 20-25ºC.

Pepper is perfect does not like dense clay soils, so such lands should be diluted with peat or humus. To saturate the soil with oxygen, which is so necessary for the full development of pepper bushes, the soil is carefully dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet and leveled with a rake or harrow.

The location of the holes depends on the irrigation method. With this method, two rows of peppers are moved to each other at a distance of 35-40 cm, and the passages are increased to 70 cm. Standard method suggests placing pepper bushes at a distance of 50 cm, and aisles are arranged 60 cm wide.

The depth of the hole for planting pepper seedlings is dug such that the root was covered with soil to the root collar. After planting, it should not be in the ground, as this threatens the development of blackleg disease on the pepper bush.

To feed the hole, apply one of the ready-made complex fertilizers, which contains phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium salts. The seedlings are carefully removed from the pot and placed in the hole. The root system of the pepper does not tolerate the slightest damage and gets very sick afterwards, so the cup is simply cut. The hole is half filled with earth, then the plant is watered with approximately 4 liters of water per specimen. After the water has been absorbed, fill the hole with soil to the top. Each row of plants is marked with signs indicating the variety.

Surface the soil around the pepper is mulched layer of peat. Tall bushes, if necessary, are tied to support posts. Initially, the pepper planting rows are covered with film. This will protect the pepper from possible frosts, which are completely destructive for the plant, and will maintain constant soil moisture.

The place for planting peppers in the ground is chosen where cucumbers, onions, perennial herbs or early cabbage. Do not plant peppers in beds after growing crops from the nightshade family - eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes.

Caring for peppers before harvest

Sweet peppers are classified as bush plants. When they reach a height of 15 cm, the tops of the shoots that are forming in height are removed. In this case, the pepper begins to actively branch out to the sides. In open ground the bush is not tall, 60-65 cm.

On outdoors Pepper begins to bear fruit at the end of August and continues into September. Maturation happens gradually, and fruit removal is carried out as needed.

Pepper loves moist soil and deteriorates at the slightest drying and overheating. To adapt plants to changing weather conditions, fertilizing (spraying) with stimulants is carried out.

For successful growth and fruiting, the soil is constantly loosened to enrich it with oxygen. Several feedings are carried out during the growing season:

1. The first feeding of pepper is carried out after planting two weeks later with urea.
2. Watering with Teraflex, Master, and Kristalen solutions is carried out in the second turn.
3. Fertilizers containing calcium minerals will help prevent disease in the green above-ground parts.
4. When there is very strong heat in dry summers, fruit ovary stops due to impaired pollination. In this case, the thermoprotective drug Megafol will help.

Pests and diseases of pepper

The main pests of the plant are cutworms, Colorado potato beetles and thrips.

Cutworms belong to the family of Lepidoptera butterflies. 4-5 cm in size, found in all climate zones around the world. The female lays eggs in the soil, on the green parts of plants. The caterpillars appear within 3-5 days, depending on the temperature. Special show activity at dusk or at night. Cutworms overwinter in the pupal phase in the soil, and in June a butterfly is formed from them.

It is difficult to fight these pests because during the day they hide in the ground near the bush. Chemical artillery is used to destroy caterpillars and butterflies. Spraying is carried out with the preparations “Citkor”, “Decis”, “Iskra”. Repeated treatment must be carried out after 10 days. It is necessary to constantly remove weeds from the site.

Thrips are small insects with an elongated body that develop from laid eggs. They develop very rapidly; at the right temperature, they can double their population in 4-6 days. On large farms it is completely impossible to get rid of them, but in home gardens, treatment with insecticides gives positive results. It is better to remove affected plants from the site. From traditional methods If the pepper is slightly infested, spray with mustard or tobacco decoctions.

The Colorado potato beetle lays its eggs on back side leaves. Adult larvae and beetles are collected in vessels with kerosene for destruction, and sprayed with chemicals.

Downy mildew or powdery mildew affects neglected plants or in conditions of excessive humidity. Initially, the disease appears on pepper leaves in the form of small brown or brown spots with a white moldy coating, but soon covers large surfaces. The plant dies.

Control measures include collecting seeds in the fall only from healthy plants, when inspecting seedlings before planting, discard affected pepper specimens after harvesting be sure to clean all plant remains from the garden. If pepper is damaged, treat with fungicides.

Pepper anthracnose is a fungal infection of all parts of the bush, from the root system to the fruit. It can develop in any of the periods of bush formation. As a precaution, crop rotation is required (returning plants from the nightshade family to the site no earlier than after two years). Complete cleaning of the garden in the fall from pepper tops, careful removal of weeds during growth, disinfection of seeds before planting and treatment of crops with fungicides.

Pepper gets sick and various viral diseases. These include stolbur or mycoplasmosis, tobacco, potato or tobacco mosaic viruses. All these lesions lead to the complete death of the plant or to inability to bear fruit. Preventive measures include disinfecting seeds in preparation for planting with special reagents and planting pepper bushes away from alfalfa, cucumbers, tomatoes and potatoes.

The gardener’s work in growing ripe pepper fruits will be crowned with an excellent, rich harvest if all the recommendations for caring for this crop are followed.

Planting pepper seedlings in a greenhouse and open ground

Bulgarian sweet pepper is a rather demanding crop in terms of growing conditions. For getting good harvest It is equally important to grow good seedlings and follow correct agricultural practices.

Growing seedlings

In mid-latitudes, peppers are grown using seedlings; they have such a long ripening period that they cannot be harvested otherwise. On the other hand, this plant does not tolerate transplantation very well, so it is advisable to sow it not in a common box, but in separate containers, from where the seedling, along with a lump of earth, is subsequently transferred to a permanent place. Before sowing, the seeds are soaked in a solution table salt to separate the pacifiers (those that float). The remaining seeds are wrapped in a damp cloth closer to the heat source. In about a day they will germinate, after which they are planted in moist soil.

It is best to choose varieties that are zoned in the area where you live and sow about two months before planting in the ground or greenhouse, taking into account that the seeds germinate within 10-15 days. Each container with a plant should be covered with glass or polyethylene, turning it into a mini-greenhouse and placed in a warm place. Often, seedlings do not appear even after these manipulations, so you should initially sow more seeds than the seedlings you need; the remaining containers with soil can then be used when picking tomato or flower seedlings. Pepper seedlings must be fed with diluted bird droppings or mineral fertilizers every 10 days. Fully prepared seedlings should have up to 14 true leaves and flower buds, and sometimes even ready-made ovaries.

Preparing the soil and planting pepper seedlings

IN open ground It makes sense to grow sweet peppers only in the southern regions; in the middle zone and Siberia they will not die either, but you must admit, it would be a shame to collect one vegetable from each bush, so it is better to prepare a greenhouse with fertile soil And good drainage. Before digging, humus and mineral fertilizers that do not contain chlorine are added to it. Immediately before planting, holes are made so that the seedlings can be buried to the height of the pot. The distance between the bushes should be at least 40 cm. Usually, staggered planting is used in two rows, the distance between the rows is about half a meter. It is important that the earth is well warmed up, to about +15 degrees. To avoid cross-pollination, sweet and hot peppers should not be less than two meters apart.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

Caring for peppers includes watering with exclusively warm water, followed by ventilating the greenhouse, weeding, fertilizing and loosening the soil. Pepper is a plant that is very responsive to feeding. The first time it is carried out two weeks after planting using mullein and superphosphate. Then, every 10 days, the vegetable is fertilized with ash or other potassium fertilizer without choir. The bush is formed into 3-4 stems; if necessary, tall varieties are tied up.

To repel pests, you can plant marigolds or basil in the spaces between the rows. and to attract pollinating insects, lay out banana skins and apple slices. Fruits that are ripe to technical ripeness are removed; they ripen well indoors, and the plant will have more strength to set and grow new peppers. This is an amazing paradox: the more often you harvest, the more abundant it will be. In the fall, good bushes can be transplanted into a pot and placed on a window in an apartment or house; all winter they will delight you with fresh fruits.

Beneficial features

Sweet peppers have excellent taste and therefore have become the favorite crop of many gardeners. In addition, it has a number of useful properties due to its chemical and biological composition. It is truly a champion among vegetables in terms of vitamin C content; the fruits of this plant contain even more of it than black currant and lemon. This vegetable also contains other vitamins, for example, A, B1, B2, P, pyridoxine, folic acid. Sweet peppers are also rich in minerals; they contain calcium, iodine, iron, and zinc.

The characteristic taste of this vegetable is given by the alkaloid capsaicin it contains. Thanks to this substance, the consumption of pepper improves digestion, helps thin the blood and lower blood pressure. In addition, bell pepper is useful for vitamin deficiency, insomnia, vascular problems, iron deficiency anemia, chronic fatigue, diabetes mellitus. It contains chlorogenic acid, which binds and removes carcinogens from the body.

Growing pepper seedlings. How to grow pepper seedlings from seeds to planting

Pepper - very heat-loving crop, but despite this, gardeners middle zone In Russia they successfully grow it in film and glass greenhouses. And with the improvement of agricultural technology and the emergence of new varieties, this crop has firmly taken its place in the garden among cold-resistant vegetables. Growing pepper seedlings is not an easy task. The growing season of pepper is approximately 120-150 days, so it is necessary to grow this crop seedling method. Pepper seedlings are planted in the ground or greenhouse at the age of 60-80 days. By this time, buds are already forming on the plants. To obtain such seedlings, you need to plant pepper seeds early - in late February-early March.

Pre-sowing seed preparation

Old pepper seeds must be checked for germination 2-3 weeks before planting. To do this, select 10 seeds and put them in fabric bags. Don't forget to mark the varieties. Place the fabric bags in warm water(25C) for a day. A container of water can be placed on the radiator to maintain this temperature.

After this, the pepper seeds need to be removed from the water and placed in bags in a warm place (30C) for pecking. After 4-5 days, the seeds should sprout roots. If you only have 2-4 seeds sprouted, it is better not to use such seeds for seedlings.

Disinfecting pepper seeds before planting

If your pepper seeds are not processed, you should disinfect them. Soak the seeds in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes. After the procedure, rinse the seeds with running water.

Soaking pepper seeds in nutrient solutions

To give pepper seeds a good start, soak them in nutrient solutions. Prepare this solution. To do this, take 1 tsp. Fertilizers "Agricola", "Ideal" or wood ash and dissolve in 1 liter of water. Soak the pepper seeds for a day in the prepared solution at a temperature of 25-28C.

Such nutritious treatment will contribute to the friendly and rapid germination of pepper seeds, as well as accelerated ripening and increased productivity.

Hardening of pepper seeds

Seeds treated with nutrient solutions can be hardened. To do this, place the bags for 2 days in the refrigerator (2-5C), and then for a day in a warm place - 18C. Repeat the procedure twice. After this, leave the seeds on a saucer for 1-2 days for germination. Make sure that the temperature is not lower than 25C. Hardened seeds planted in the ground will sprout quickly.

If you are late with sowing

As we have already said, peppers should be sown early - at the end of February, but if you are late in sowing your pepper seeds, do not worry. Seeds planted in mid-March will simply have to be illuminated fluorescent lamps- until the moment of picking.

Preparing soil mixture for planting pepper seeds

Where does the “life” of a pepper seed begin? Probably with soil mixture. The soil for growing pepper seedlings must be nutritious. To prepare the soil mixture, take 2 parts humus and 1 part turf soil. Add 1 tbsp to the mixture bucket. l. ash and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate.

You can also use ready-made soil (for example, “Living Earth”). Pour the mixture into the seedling boxes so that the soil does not reach the edge by 1.5-2 cm.

Sowing pepper seeds

It's time to start sowing pepper seeds. Growing pepper seedlings is impossible without knowledge of the depth of planting seeds. To ensure that the seed coat does not interfere with the leaves, it must remain in the soil. To do this, place the seeds in the furrows to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Lightly compact the crops. Don't forget to mark the varieties with markers. Place the boxes in a warm room with a temperature of 26 C. Sprinkle the soil with water so that a crust does not form and the seeds can sprout together.

As soon as the pepper sprouts appear, transfer the boxes to a bright windowsill with a temperature of -16°C for 5-6 days. This will allow young pepper seedlings not to stretch out and form a good root system. After a week, bring the temperature to 22°C. Water the seedlings moderately, otherwise the plants may develop blackleg disease. The water should be warm 25-28°C. Rotate the boxes on the windowsill regularly so that young plants receive even light.

Pepper picking

When the peppers have two true leaves, they are ready for picking. Water the plants 2-3 hours before picking. The most suitable size of picking boxes is 10x10cm. Bury the plant down to the cotyledon leaves. Gently water the planted plants and place the boxes on the windowsill, slightly shading them from the sun's rays for the first day.

Yet its quality is better, and somehow more time. So let's get started...

Who needs a warm bed and why?

Warm beds are needed to a greater extent in those regions where the summer is too short. Here we have Perm region There was no summer at all this year! It's pure autumn...(((

And if not Warm beds, and in general, if not Natural Farming Methods, we wouldn’t have a harvest, just as practically none of our fellow countrymen have one now.

That’s why we make Warm beds in the open ground, and in the greenhouse, year after year! And only thanks to our efforts, we get a decent harvest, despite any unfavorable weather conditions.

Precisely the Warm bed may extend summer for our plants, and even create it!

Warm beds are made by those Who wants get a harvest of tomatoes, a bucket or two per bush, already ripe!

Warm beds make Te, Who wants harvest a bucket of peppers from a bush, already ripe!

Warm beds make Te, Who wants get a harvest of watermelons, melons and eggplants that ripen directly on the vine at an earlier date!

Warm beds are made by all supporters of Natural farming! And I also like to make Compost raised beds - that too unique way composting in modern processing, but Permaculture design is already underway here, although one does not interfere with the other!

Yes! - It’s a little hard to make them, but what an effect! At first I asked my husband to dig a trench, but now I can easily do it myself, since the land has already become light and soft after so many years!

So, first things first - we are preparing today - a Warm bed!

First what needs to be done is dig a trench 40 - 50 cm deep.

Trench bottom lay out or cardboard, or black film(so that food does not go into the depths and to retain heat). I don’t like these films, in fact, there are all sorts of plastic bottles at the bottom, so I use cardboard everywhere! It provides warmth and decomposes, and the worms have a place to hibernate!

Then we start in layers fill the trench with organic matter, alternating carbonaceous materials with nitrogenous ones, and you already know that everything green is nitrogenous, and everything brown and gray is carbonaceous.

We trample each layer more firmly with our feet, spill it with water and pour it with the EM preparation. For several years now I have been using not EM preparations, but liquid from my vermicompost! And there are much more microorganisms in it than in all these purchased drugs.

But if you have not yet acquired your own worm farm, it is not yet time for you, then use drugs, because bacteria and microorganisms must be introduced into a warm bed, especially if you are just starting the transition to Natural farming, and previously the earth was dug up - that means it contains There are no local microorganisms at all...

The bottom layer can be laid old trees, stumps, branches- anything larger will serve as drainage.

The next layer is green mass - you can use tops of the harvested crop, you can have grass, anything fresh and green - you can use kitchen waste.

Next layer, for example, leaf litter

And then again green or kitchen waste. And don’t forget to trample down and water each layer.

Next layer - cardboard, newspapers, and again greens or waste on top, maybe unripe compost.

And the very top of the bed cover with earth the one that was taken from her.

So, in total in a couple of hours, you will make the best thing ever A warm, nutritious and luxurious garden bed.

And you can cover the edges of the bed with anything, or you can cover it with nothing at all. The main thing is that in the end, your layer “pie” is raised above ground level by 20 centimeters. The total is 50 + 20 cm = 70 cm of pure organic matter!

But that's not all! Now we sow green manure in the garden before winter or mulch for the winter, for example, leaves. I also do this: I spread rabbit bedding over the beds and cover it with cardboard on top, securing it so that it doesn’t blow away! I just have nowhere to put this manure... That's it - the beds are ready for winter!

Tell me, will the plants want to thrive in such a bed? Yes, I wish I could grow up there myself!))) There is so much food, all winter long the stormy life of our soil inhabitants - our helpers - will be in full swing here, and when this whole thing catches fire in the spring, imagine how much warmth it will be!

Yes, such a bed is simply teeming not only with earthworms, but with millions of beneficial microorganisms and bacteria, which contribute to great harvest- they restore soil fertility.

The main thing is that the layers are thicker and don’t forget to trample them down so that there is a lot of everything - in a thick layer! And pour EMochka on each layer.

If you make a bed in the spring, then do not plant seedlings in such a bed right away - they will start to burn as soon as you make it - almost on the second or third day!

In this case, you need to do this: make good holes in the garden bed, wider and deeper - the size of a bucket! And you fill these holes with a good soil mixture - you can compost. What does this give us?

It’s simple: while the plants (planted seedlings) are getting stronger and getting used to the new place, they begin to develop a root system in the first two weeks. And this root system will develop precisely in this poured compost!

And during this time, the organic matter in the garden bed will burn out, powerful heat comes from below because of this, and microorganisms and worms begin to decompose the burnt-out organic matter, turning it into accessible food for our plants! Beauty!

Now, what else I want to add - many questions were asked, such as: Is it possible to plant root crops in such a bed in the first year? Is it possible not to remove the compost from it every year?

Can! Look here - the effect of such a bed is maximum- first two years, but in general the effect lasts 5 years. It depends on what you put into it, of course! If the bed was made conscientiously, the layers are all thick and at the same time compacted tightly, a variety of organic matter and its alternation, microorganisms... Then such a bed will have a positive effect for at least 5 years!

And you don’t have to disassemble it, but alternate crops on it for five years: the first year the most demanding ones, peppers, eggplants, etc. In the second year less demanding ones, in the third year root vegetables, in the fourth year potatoes, in the fifth year various greens and herbs, for example !

Then you plant your most demanding crops on another bed - next year you can lay another bed like this and plant them on it. And again you alternate for 5 years.

Thus, you can do one or two per year warm beds! And you don’t strain yourself and always plant everything differently, the crops walk around the garden! And you won't have to run around with buckets...

If you plan to grow your own tomatoes, eggplants, etc. in the same place, then in the second year (or this fall) you dismantle the top layer of the ridge: instead of the organic matter embedded in it, you will see compost of the best quality!

Then you scoop it out from there and spread it around the garden: under bushes, in beds, and so on... And in this bed you put fresh organic matter! I seem to have explained it clearly... What do you think?

This is how we extend the summer for our heat-loving vegetables! It's really a great idea, isn't it?

Haven't you made a garden bed like this yet? You still don't have it???

If you need help in developing the site and in everything related to Natural farming overall you can get Individual consultation! This will help avoid mistakes and speed up the process of restoring the land!

I would be grateful for the response from everyone who is capable of doing an unconditionally good deed! You can help us, we really need your help! Do GOOD - and it will come back to you!

Pepper is one of the vegetable crops, which contain a lot of useful vitamins.

The culture belongs to the Solanaceae genus. In our growing conditions, pepper is an annual plant.

Agrotechnical measures for peppers are a little simpler than for tomatoes, since they do not need to be pinched.

The plant is grown for various culinary purposes and more.

The process of growing this crop is a very creative process. And you need to do this business only at a time when you have great mood. And with this attitude, you will get not only good seedlings, but also a high harvest.

This article will tell you about all the aspects of cultivating crops.

What cultural features need to be taken into account when growing peppers?

There are biological and morphological characteristics of pepper that need to be known. We will talk about them below.

What applies to morphological characteristics:

• The power and thickness of the plant bush. Depending on the variety, the height and thickness of the plant varies.
• Leaf shape and length.
• The size of the fruits and their location on the bush. As well as their coloring at different periods of ripening.
• Pepper wall thickness.
• Root system of the crop.

What are biological features:

• It is necessary to take into account the temperature in which the crop will grow.
• The second thing you need to know is the optimal humidity that pepper needs.
• Peppers are usually grown without the following measures: pinching and pinching. But there are exceptions; pinching can also increase crop yield.
• It is necessary to pay attention to the lighting of the place sun rays for planting crops.
• An important factor are the soils on which the pepper will be planted. The culture does not tolerate acidic soils.

What should be the soil for pepper?

The soil for planting peppers should be both fertile and moist.

All the nuances of different soils:

• To improve the fertility of loamy soil, rotted sawdust (in the amount of one bucket per square meter), manure (in the amount of one bucket) or peat (in the amount of two buckets) are added to it.
• To improve the fertility of clay soil, two ingredients are added to it: coarse sand and rotted sawdust (one bucket of each).
• With predominance peat soils turf soil and humus are added (in the amount of one bucket per square meter).
• For sandy soils, peat or soil is added to improve their fertility. clay soil, two buckets of humus and one bucket of sawdust.

To prepare the soil for planting peppers, fertilizers are added to it. For one square meter you need to add: one glass of wood ash; superphosphate; one tablespoon of potassium sulfate and one teaspoon of urea.

After adding all components the soil needs to be dug up, while making beds thirty centimeters high. Next, the leveled surface of the earth is watered with a solution of water and mullein (in the amount of half a liter per bucket of water) or a solution of sodium humate (at the rate of one tablespoon per bucket of water).

For one square meter About four liters of solution are consumed. After these activities, the soil is ready for planting peppers.

There are the following pepper varieties: Sweet and spicy. Sweet varieties include: “Gladiator”, “Litsedey”, “Victoria”, “Ermak”, “Zaznayka” and many others. Spicy varieties include: “Chili”, “Ukrainian bitter”, “Vietnamese bouquet” and others.

Preparation of pepper seedlings and necessary care for them

Pepper seedlings love organic fertilizers. You can fertilize with such fertilizers every ten days.

Pickled seedlings love foliar feeding. Kemira Combi fertilizer is suitable for this; it contains a lot of microelements. A diluted fertilizer solution should be sprayed on the leaves of the plant both above and below. This event should be carried out early in the morning, before the sun's rays appear.

Foliar feeding of the plant should be alternated with watering the crop.

When a yellowish color appears on the leaves, this indicates a lack of nitrogen.

We must not forget water the crop and ensure that there is no waterlogging or drying out of the soil. Rare watering causes leaves to fall and the plant to wilt. And excessive watering leads to bad work root system of the plant.

How to plant peppers correctly, the main nuances

Before planting, you must first harden the crop; this is done fourteen days before planting the pepper in the ground. Hardening begins at a positive temperature of 15 degrees, and very slowly lower it, but not less than +11°C.

Planting peppers is best done in the evening. It is necessary to maintain a distance between rows of about 65 cm and between seedlings of 40 cm. You can also use the square-nest method (60x60 cm or 70x70 cm) and plant two or three plants in one hole.

To maintain the plant from breaking, it is necessary when planting install pegs(during the growth period it is better not to install pegs, as you can damage the root system of the plant) to which the bush will be tied in the future.

After planting, peppers take root very slowly; in order to promote better air circulation in the soil, you need to lightly loosen the soil around the pepper.

Peppers have an average growing season of just over three months, so pepper seeds begin to be prepared in January. The timing of planting a crop mainly depends on how the plant will take root in open ground. IN warm areas Pepper seeds are planted until mid-March, and for the middle zone, planting is carried out in February. And they are planted in the ground at the end of May.

Scheme for planting peppers in the ground

In the third ten days of May or early July, pepper seedlings are planted in prepared beds.

The distance between rows should be about 60 cm, and the distance between seedlings 40 cm.

You can also use the square-nest method (60x60 cm or 70x70 cm) and plant two or three plants in one hole.

If you are planting several varieties of pepper, then they need to be planted at the maximum possible distance between them, since the crops are cross-pollinated.

What is caring for culture?

In the fight against various kinds diseases and pests (for example: white rot, black leg, Colorado potato beetle, various slugs) can be helped by folk remedies.

Many crops that grow nearby can also take care of their neighboring growing crops, as well as protect them from various diseases and pests.

You can also water the plant every fourteen days with various solutions for preventive purposes.

Caring for the crop consists of proper soil moisture, tying up the plant, weeding and feeding the plant.

Watering peppers in open ground is very important for the culture. The soil should be constantly moist. If the soil is dry, the plant may not develop well. If there are small atmospheric plantings, then watering the crop should be reduced, and if precipitation is constant, then watering should be stopped altogether.

Sweet peppers are grown less often in the country than cucumbers and tomatoes. Meanwhile, there is no special wisdom in obtaining large yields of this vegetable. And although this is a fairly heat-loving crop, when the right approach Peppers can be successfully grown in the Middle Zone.

PREPARATION OF PEPPER SEEDS FOR SOWING

The period of ripening of peppers from germination to fruit harvesting is: early varieties 80-100 days, for later ones - 120-140 days, so you can start thinking about seedlings in late February - early March.

Seeds need to be planted 55-60 days before planting seedlings in the ground. If you plant earlier, the plants will stretch out, weaken and take root poorly, which cannot but affect the future harvest.

It is better to prepare the seeds first. For this, 1 tsp. dissolve potassium permanganate in 1 liter hot water. Pour 3 tbsp over the seeds for half an hour. l. warm solution and then rinse with warm water. After this, you can also fill them with a heteroauxin solution for 12 hours - take 1 tablet per 1 liter of water. After this, place the seed in a canvas bag and put it in the snow overnight, and keep it in the room during the day. 5-6 days of such hardening are enough. At this time, you need to make sure that the seeds do not dry out, germinate or suffocate. After hardening, dry the seeds thoroughly before planting or sow immediately - whichever is more convenient.

PLANTING PEPPER

It is best to prepare soil for seedlings using peat. If there is no peat, you can take humus. So, to 2 parts of humus (peat) add 1 part of turf soil, 1 part of sawdust. Pre-spill the sawdust with a solution ammonium nitrate(a glass of saltpeter per bucket of water).

The sawdust should be moistened with this solution for 2 weeks. Then all components must be mixed, add 1 tbsp. n. superphosphate. 2 tbsp. l. ash - and the soil for seedlings is ready. The operation with sawdust is necessary so that the seedlings grow strong and do not develop nitrogen starvation, in which the leaves become pale and the plants themselves become weak.

Seeds can be sown in separate pots or in trays (boxes). In the second option, the distance between the rows should be 3-4 cm. There is no need to plant the seed deeply - 1 cm from the top is enough. Before the emergence of friendly shoots, it is better to cover the crops with plastic wrap.

Once the seeds have sprouted, the boxes should be placed on a cool windowsill for several days. Then you can move it to a warm place where the temperature is kept at 25°. As soon as the first true leaf appears, the peppers should be picked.

CARING FOR PEPPER SEEDLINGS

Every 12 days, peppers should be fed with complex fertilizer, starting from the time the second leaf appears. A total of 3 feedings need to be done. If signs of nitrogen starvation appear, it is best to feed the plants with chicken droppings - 0.5 liters of droppings per bucket of water.

As the plant develops, it needs to be shaped - leave the 2 strongest shoots to simulate the skeleton of the bush, and pinch out the weak branches after 12 leaves appear.

As soon as the plant develops more than 7 leaves and they are sufficiently strong (and this will happen in 50-60 days), the seedlings can be planted in a greenhouse or open ground.

It is worth knowing that peppers are capricious and demanding. They restore the root system poorly, do not like transplants, and take root slowly. Therefore, many gardeners eliminate the picking operation and plant non-picked plants.

Good strong seedlings are considered to be plants 20-25 cm high with 5-10 leaves and a strong stem 3-4 mm thick at the roots.

MAY CONCERNS

In May, it is time to prepare the ground for peppers, if it has not been prepared since the fall. Peppers feel best in garden beds after cucumbers and cabbage. They do not tolerate fresh manure - it is better to take rotted compost and add it to the ground - 1 square meter. m 1 bucket of manure, 50-60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt.

Planting in the ground or in a greenhouse should begin when the air temperature reaches 15°. Frosts are destructive for peppers, so plants should not be planted before the end of May.

Peppers love moisture, so they need to be watered well before transplanting.

It is better to choose a cool, cloudy day for planting. Plants should be carefully removed from the boxes, being careful not to disturb the roots. It is optimal to plant peppers peat cups and plant them in the ground together - then the peppers will hurt less.

The distance between rows should ideally be 50 cm, between plants - 30 cm. Plants should be planted in separate, well-watered holes. You can’t bury peppers when planting them: this will cause them to get sick and dry out. Sprinkle with soil up to the first leaves. But if you plant the peppers very shallowly, the top roots will begin to die, and this should not be allowed.

It is important to plant sweet and bitter peppers as far apart as possible to prevent cross-pollination. Otherwise, sweet peppers will be bitter, and bitter ones will not be pleasantly spicy.

The ground around the plants can be mulched with straw or grass so that the ground retains moisture longer and there are fewer weeds.

After planting, you should especially carefully monitor the moisture of the soil. Peppers really don't like dryness. They need to be watered often and regularly, but not too much.

If you overwater peppers, they may suffer from blossom end rot. If the peppers dry out, especially during the period when the peppers are setting, then the fruits will subsequently have a bitter taste. It is best to water in the morning, pouring the water carefully, at the root.

The water should be warm - from cold water Peppers stop growing and yields decline. In the first days after planting, watering should be frequent. Then you can water it once every 10 days.

You need to loosen the rows more often, a couple of days after watering. These procedures provide air access to the roots. But since the roots of peppers are close to the surface, loosening should be shallow - no deeper than 6 cm.

15 days after planting the plants, they should be fed for the first time with complex mineral fertilizers. To do this, you need to take 1 kg of mullein and mix it with 10 liters of water, in which 30 g of superphosphate are dissolved.

This solution is enough for 1 square. m beds. You can also take chicken manure in the proportion already indicated above.

SUMMER CARE OF PEPPERS

In the summer you need to feed the plants several more times with a mixture of mullein and superphosphate. Apply 0.5 liters of mixture per plant. The next feeding must be done through

2 weeks. Take 2 tbsp per bucket of water. l. nitrophoska and water the plants with this mixture. The main thing is that the solution does not get on the leaves; to do this, it must be carefully poured under the root. Otherwise, burns will appear on the leaves.

If necessary, you can feed the plants a couple more times. All fertilizing is carried out at night, on damp soil.

When flowers appear, you need to watch the peppers especially carefully. If it gets too hot (more than 33-34°), the flowers may fall off and the peppers may wilt, so it is best to shade the plants in extreme heat.

It is better to tear off the first flower that appears, so that the peppers do not become depleted of strength and development is not delayed.

ABOUT PEPPER DISEASES AND THE FIGHT WITH THEM

Although with proper agricultural practices the risk of disease is minimized, peppers are still not immune to various infections.

Most often, plants are affected by late blight, fusarium, brown spot, black rot of fruits, and black leg. Almost all of these diseases are fungal in nature.

Diseases such as mosaic are caused by viruses. Blossom rot, when plants begin to rot, occurs due to errors in watering and care.

To protect plants from black rot, before planting seedlings, you need to treat the seeds with potassium permanganate according to the scheme indicated above, and do not plant peppers in the garden after nightshades.

With blackleg, rot of the root part of the plant appears, which leads to its death. Affected peppers should be removed immediately, and the beds with the remaining ones should be watered with a 3% solution copper sulfate and sprinkle with ash.

Spraying with garlic infusion helps against late blight.

To do this, mix 100-150 g of crushed dry leaves or scales of garlic heads in 10 liters of water, leave for 24 hours and spray the plant with this solution. You can also use 1% Bordeaux mixture. To prevent late blight, peppers should be planted away from tomatoes and potatoes.

In greenhouses, peppers are most often affected by gray rot. This is usually due to high humidity. Therefore, for the purpose of prevention in greenhouses, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the premises and plant peppers at large intervals between each other.

HARVESTING PEPPERS

Peppers accumulate vitamins before the seeds ripen. Therefore, ripe red and yellow peppers contain more vitamins than green ones.

Ripe peppers should be carefully cut with pruning shears. By picking off the fruits, as many people mistakenly do, you can damage the fragile plant. It is important to regularly remove the fruits as they ripen, without leaving them on the bush.

If ripened fruits remain on it for a long time, then the plant stops blooming and producing new ovaries. If you pick the peppers on time, the plant will continue to bloom and bear fruit.

If frosts begin and the ground peppers are not yet fully ripe, it is best to tear the plants out of the ground with their roots and hang them in a warm place. The peppers will soon ripen on their own.

There is another way - in the fall the peppers can be dug up and transplanted into a pot. At home on the windowsill they will grow and bear fruit until next summer(after all, it is a perennial plant).

Peppers are responsive to care. If you put your soul into them, they will amaze you with their productivity and rich taste. Go for it!

Growing peppers - sharing our experience

The vegetable is simply golden

I also want to talk about pepper, although much has already been written about it. But there are as many secrets as there are gardeners. So, in order.

As I wrote before, we take the land from the dacha, in the village, in a ravine under nettles. We put it in bags, bring it home and put it on the loggia. Although it is glazed, it is not insulated, so the ground freezes. I don’t plant seedlings early, although I tried in mid-February, and at the end and beginning of March, but settled on the date of March 10. We plant peppers in the ground on May 10-15 under double acrylic, the densest. Therefore, even if there is frost, they will still not freeze. By this time, the peppers have grown to 30-35 cm - strong, the leaves are large, green, the bush is all in buds and - most importantly - does not bloom, literally 2-3 flowers, and that’s all. And my landing rules are as follows.

In mid-February, we bring the soil from the loggia into the common corridor, where it remains until March 1 and thaws during this time. And on the 1st, I pour it into a basin, add a full handful of ash, mix it and pour it into seedling boxes. Then I pour a hot pink solution of potassium permanganate on it. Until March 10, the boxes are in the hallway of the apartment. During this time, the earth has time to rest and dry out a little. I loosen it, lightly pat it down and make two grooves, pour it with a slightly warm pinkish

potassium permanganate solution and plant the seeds. First I pickle the seeds in a dark solution of manganese and plant them without washing them. I don’t carry out any more manipulations with them - I think that if the seeds are good, they will germinate successfully, but why revive dead ones?

I have my own seeds, so I plant them every 1 cm. I remove those that sprout later than necessary, and my own seeds sprout literally after 5-7 days. All this time, the boxes stand on the table by the window, covered with polyethylene, secured with an elastic band.

From time to time I buy new seeds at the store. I leave the ones that suit me, and remove the rest. Two years ago, yellow pepper seeds were purchased - White Gold, Golden Calf and Bugai. I don't have photos, but they are exactly as advertised on the bags, only even larger. The Titan and Atlant varieties have proven themselves to be excellent. They are all beautiful, very large and very sweet.

This is how I grow seedlings, everything is very simple, by March 20 all the seeds germinate. And on April 5, the transplantation begins. I replant them in 400 gram sour cream cups. And here the most important thing is that I definitely dive them.

For what? Yes, many argue that you don’t need to pick peppers, but I believe that if you don’t do this, the pepper will start to grow too quickly and by the time of planting it will be very tall and will bloom, but this is exactly undesirable! No matter how carefully we replant the pepper, if it is already blooming profusely, its color will still fall off, even if not all of it, and we don’t need that.

When I dive, in the first week the pepper seems to freeze and does not grow. By the end of the second week it begins to move a little, and only by the end of the third week does growth resume. This is approximately April 24-26. There are three weeks left before planting in the ground under film on May 12-15 – that’s quite enough. Pepper has time to grow, because he is no longer young in age.

Medicine for prevention

And the transplant is quite simple. We dig holes, remove the sprouts from the cups, plant them and water them. We do not add any fertilizers. And only after a week, when the peppers have finally gotten stronger, we feed them when watering. By this time we already have the fertilizer ready. We prepare it like this: in a 200-liter barrel we put 1 bucket of manure, 1 package of granulated chicken manure, leftover yeast, jam, pieces of half-eaten bread, grown nettles. All this ferments for 2-3 weeks and it’s ready.

But I add this fertilizer not 1 liter per bucket, but 0.5 liters. But every week (1 time). And if the weather is hot and dry, we water ourselves every other day or every day, but literally 0.7 liters each, since pepper has a superficial root system and this amount of moisture is enough for it.

Two weeks after planting, I spray the peppers once with a solution containing zircon. I read in one magazine that this is a natural preparation - an extract from the herb Echinacea purpurea, which is medicinal plant. I always have a lot of pepper, every year, and I didn’t count.

Only in 2013 I decided to count. From 72 bushes we collected almost five bags - those in which sugar is sold at 50 kg. And two more buckets, but smaller ones, albeit red ones. And the peppers in the bags were not just large, but actually huge, red, yellow and very sweet! It was too much for us, we had to sell it. We took it with pleasure.

I make a lot of pepper preparations: I marinate them, prepare adjika, lecho, and freeze them. In general, we have a garden of 17 acres, so we grow everything we need and can, and we are not afraid of any food sanctions!

I wish all readers health, success on the dacha front, and the respected editors also patience to sort out our scribbles.

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

: WHEN AND HOW IS IT BETTER TO CLEAN...

: How I grow sweet peppers...

: How to harden seeds before sowing Cucumbers,...

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