Fertilizing clematis for abundant flowering. Regal clematis

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Clematis are liana-like plants of the ranunculaceae family. Among flower growers, it is known as clematis, lozinka or grandfather curls and is widely used for vertical gardening. Spectacular climbing shoots of clematis, from the beginning of June to August graceful flowers, serve as decoration for gardens and cottages, balconies and gazebos. For getting lush flowering proper care is required throughout the growing season. Spring events are of particular importance. First of all, feeding, which lays the foundations for future flowering.

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    Care after winter

    They begin to care for clematis literally immediately after the snow melts, freeing the awakened plants from their winter shelters and performing a number of other simple but important activities.

    Removing covers

    After wintering, the protection is removed from clematis. Do this gradually:

    • When the mercury column stops falling below 0 °C during the daytime, ventilation holes are made in the protection, providing access fresh air and light to the shoots of the plant.
    • Winter shelters are removed completely only when the threat of night frosts has disappeared.

    Trimming

    Clematis are pruned in the fall. If for some reason this could not be done, then pruning is carried out in early spring:

    • For varieties that bloom twice a year, all old and dried shoots are removed, and healthy shoots are shortened to 1 m.
    • Clematis blooming on shoots current year, cut to a length of 30 cm, leaving 2-3 buds.
    • In spring, remove all broken and deformed branches.

    Support and garter

    Spring growth of clematis shoots begins in May, reaching its maximum by the middle of this month. At daytime temperatures above 10 °C, the vine stretches 7-10 cm per day and needs support, natural or artificially erected. It is worth taking care of its presence and staking of the vine in early spring.

    The first garter is carried out on minimum distance from the earth. As they grow, the clematis shoots are fan-shapedly distributed over the surface of the support, carefully ensuring that they do not intertwine, and fixed. This will ensure good illumination of the shoots and protect the plant from mechanical damage and their consequences, and will also give the bush a decorative appearance.

    Scheme for fixing clematis shoots

    Watering

    In spring, clematis experience an increased need for moisture. After the snow melts, the soil is sufficiently saturated with water, but its reserves are quickly used up. Clematis react painfully to moisture deficiency, so in the spring, especially with little rainfall, the soil is moistened.

    Watering is carried out infrequently (once a week), but abundantly, trying to moisten the soil to a depth of up to half a meter, which is explained by the taproot type of plant root system. From 10 to 20 liters of water is poured under young bushes, 1.5-2 times more for adults. The older the plant, the more moisture it needs.

    Loosening the soil

    After each watering, the soil is loosened. This will avoid excessive evaporation of water and prevent the growth of unwanted vegetation.

    The first time the soil is loosened in early spring, still wet from the melted snow, in order to destroy the soil crust and weeds. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 2-5 cm.

    Mulching

    Covering the soil with mulch partially replaces watering and loosening. It helps retain moisture in the soil, saturate it with oxygen and protects the roots from overheating.

    Used as mulch various materials: peat, half-rotted manure, sawdust, straw, compost, humus. The use of organic matter helps plants receive additional nutrition during rain.


    Mulch is placed around the bushes, being careful not to touch the shoots. This will protect them from damage by rodents.

    Planting annual flowering plants at the base of clematis shoots works similarly to mulch. These could be marigolds, which not only protect the roots, but also repel some insect pests with the help of their smell.

    Prevention of diseases and pests

    The roots of clematis, especially in waterlogged soil conditions, are susceptible to fungal diseases (fusarium, wilt, gray rot), which can lead to the loss of the plant. To prevent the occurrence of diseases in the spring, apply to clematis bushes. copper sulfate(50 g per 10 l), foundationol (20 g per 10 l) or any other fungicide, 3-4 l per bush. The treatment is repeated 3-4 times.

    Dangerous pests of clematis are root-knot nematodes, which penetrate root tissues and form thickenings (galls). To prevent their appearance, spring mulching of the soil is carried out using mint or wormwood, the smell of which repels them.

    Spring feeding

    The growing season of most varieties of clematis is characterized by the annual renewal of almost the entire above-ground mass and long and abundant flowering. To carry out these processes, the plant needs a large number of nutrients. Therefore, after winter, clematis need to be fertilized.

    For normal development, the plant needs 16 micro- and macroelements. It receives three of them (oxygen, carbon and hydrogen) mainly from the air. The remaining 13 are from the soil.

    Rules for applying fertilizers

    Fertilizing clematis in the spring is carried out in compliance with several rules:

    • fertilizers are applied after watering or into moist soil;
    • to prevent “overfeeding”, solutions of medium concentration are used, dry additives are scattered in small portions;
    • the application of mineral additives is alternated with the use of organic matter.

    Clematis do not tolerate chlorine-containing fertilizers.

    Spring feeding scheme

    During the season, adult clematis bushes are fed 5 times. Most of the fertilizing occurs in the spring.

    Subsequence Dates Fertilizers used Important information
    1 First half of MayUrea solution (30 g per 10 liters of water) or ammonium nitrate solution (2 g per 10 liters of water for a bush from 5 to 10 years old) or sprinkle fertilizer over the soil surfaceNitrogen is necessary for the growth of green mass. It activates cell division processes, preventing their aging. With a deficiency of this element, the growth of shoots slows down, the leaves become smaller and acquire a yellowish or reddish tint, and few buds are formed
    2 A week after the first feedingMullein infusion (1:10) or chicken manure (1:15). -
    2/3 Additionally, between 2 and 3 feedings (mid - end of May)Liming the soil: 150-200 g of chalk (lime) or dolomite flour are dissolved in 10 liters of water. This solution is used to treat 1 sq. m. soil.

    Adding lime milk accomplishes 2 tasks:

    • enriches the soil with potassium and calcium, without which it is impossible to obtain bright flowering;
    • allows you to correct the acidity of the soil: clematis do not tolerate an acidic environment.

    After liming, the soil is mulched

    3 1.5-2 weeks after the second feedingAny complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira universal, 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water-
    4 During the budding periodSuperphosphate, potassium nitrate 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of waterPhosphorus and potassium are necessary for the formation of buds. With their deficiency, few flowers are formed. The pedicels of some of them darken, the buds droop down and do not always open.

    In summer, clematis are not fed. This reduces flowering time!

    Foliar spring feeding

    Clematis responds well to holding foliar feeding.In the spring they are carried out twice:

    • when shoots grow, during the 1st feeding, young shoots are irrigated with a weak (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water) urea solution;
    • at the end of spring, during the formation of buds - using the preparations “Master”, “Avkarin”, “Floral Solution”.

    Clematis will definitely respond to spring troubles and will delight you with its blooms all season long.

Initially, clematis (they are also called clematis) began to be cultivated in Japan, then in Western Europe, after which they spread throughout the northern hemisphere because of their beauty. Currently there is more than 370 varieties and varieties, which are registered by the Horticultural Society of Great Britain.

Varieties are divided into simple, double and semi-double. The first have one row of petals, the second have two or three circles, the third have more than three. There are bicolor varieties in which the outer sepals differ in color and shape from the inner ones. Varieties are divided into large and small. In large clematis sepal diameter up to 15 cm, for small ones - up to 5 cm.

As it grows, the species forms a vine that can reach a height of 3 m. They are often used to decorate arches or mesh fences.

Lianas need to be propagated by layering, since when propagated by seed they do not retain varietal characteristics and quickly degenerate. Prefer acidic soils, at which the pH can drop to 4.0. For some varieties, neutral or alkaline soils are preferable - this needs to be clarified when purchasing seedlings.

Feeding and caring for clematis in summer

In summer, clematis, like other plants, require the entire complex of nutrients: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass, potassium is responsible for abundant flowering, and phosphorus supports root system and is responsible for plant immunity. Suitable for feeding clematis in the summer are both organic substances - manure, ash, phosphate or bone meal, green fertilizers, and mineral ones - urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Particular attention should be paid to choosing a landing site. This place should not be dry, as if there is a lack of water, the flowers will be small. Watering is required 3 times a week hot weather- carried out in the evening, while the leaves are also irrigated with water.

Fertilizers for clematis are applied after abundant watering in liquid form. Feeding clematis for abundant flowering should be carried out at the stage of kidney formation. This will strengthen the plant and make it possible to accumulate nutrients for the entire flowering period.

What to feed young clematis:

  • At the time of landing- rotted manure in the hole and superphosphate for the roots.
  • After two months watering with green fertilizer.
  • Feeding clematis in August-September superphosphate before wintering.

Video: What is needed for abundant flowering of clematis

How to feed old clematis in summer:

  • In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, pour a handful of urea or ammonium nitrate around the roots.
  • In 3 weeks water with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.
  • In another 2 weeks– a solution of manure or chicken droppings.
  • During flowering– potassium sulfate at the root.
  • Near the end of summer– potassium and phosphorus.
  • After flowering Clematis are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

To prevent nematodes from infesting the roots, wormwood, marigolds or calendula are planted around the clematis.

Preparing for winter and pruning vines

How to feed clematis in the fall so as not to cause green growth - there are two options:

  • stove ash containing potassium and phosphorus- everything you need for roots and bud formation next year;
  • bone flour– a long-lasting source of calcium and phosphorus, after which phosphorus nutrition with mineral potassium can be avoided for 3 years.

Fertilizers for clematis are applied in dry form in the fall, since the plant will not actively accumulate nutrients in winter. By spring, soil microorganisms will process the minerals and in the spring they will be available to plants.

A more important step is pruning. You need to know which variety grows flowers on last year’s shoots, and which ones grow on young growths.

If flower stalks form on young shoots, then such a plant is completely cut off for the winter, leaving 2 - 3 internodes, which are covered with a layer of insulation. To prevent the mulch from being blown away by the wind, you can place it on top wooden box. If flowering begins on old shoots, then you need to leave about 1.5 m in height, trim the rest.

All types of clematis need to be covered for the winter, as they are afraid of frost, and the quality of flowering will depend on the safety of the shoots. After pruning, the branches are laid on the soil, pressed with staples and covered with mulch - sawdust, leaves. In particularly cold regions, covering material is used for gardeners.

Carefully! In spring, it is important to open the vines in time so that they do not evaporate under the mulch or covering fabric. Due to untimely ventilation, many plants reduce their flowering characteristics or begin to suffer from fungus

It is better to propagate clematis in winter. To do this, dig a groove from the mother bush and sprinkle it with phosphorus fertilizer. One shoot is dug in and mulched.

Over the winter, the root system has time to germinate and in the spring it will give rise to new shoots. After this, you can cut off the young seedling from the main bush. The plant does not tolerate transplantation well, so if possible, transplant it immediately to permanent place. The distance between bushes should be at least 2 meters so that they do not compete with each other for nutrients.

Clematis, clematis, lozinka – there are many other names for this delightful flower. You can probably meet him in every corner of the globe. At the moment, scientists have bred more than 300 species of this plant - ranging from decorative, balcony exhibits to climbing subspecies, which are used to decorate walls, gazebos and other things. The flower loves light and moisture and is unpretentious. If you want to see clematis blooming profusely, you need to give it a little attention, generously, and most importantly, feed it in time with various fertilizers. The plant has difficulty withstanding winter, but proper care will delight you until the cold weather sets in. We will share how and what to feed clematis in this article.

How to feed clematis, types of fertilizers

IN different times Clematis require care and feeding every year. One of the most essential minerals is nitrogen. Without it, clematis leaves will wither and turn yellow, the sprouts will stop stretching upward, and the flowers will lose their charm and will be dull and small. For abundant flowering, the plant also needs potassium in large quantities. Almost always, clematis needs a variety of nutrients. Fertilize the flower with diluted manure or bird droppings.

You need to alternate organic matter with mineral supplements, ammonium nitrate or nitroammophos. Another vital mineral is phosphorus. Its deficiency can cause darkening of the leaves. It is recommended to apply phosphorus in the form of bone meal when preparing the soil in the fall or fertilize it with superphosphate. Clematis also needs microfertilizers. You can buy them at the store or make them yourself. When foliar treatment, try to cover the inside of the leaf as well. But do not forget that during flowering you should not fertilize the flower, otherwise you risk reducing the flowering activity.

Did you know? In spring, clematis can grow up to 12 centimeters in a day!

When to start fertilizing clematis

If you have fertilized the soil well before planting clematis, then the first fertilizing can be done after a year, or even two. But if the soil is poor, then in the first autumn or spring you will need to add humus or compost with ash. Water the plants thoroughly before fertilizing. And remember important point: clematis does not tolerate concentrated fertilizers in the soil, so it is advisable to carry out all fertilizing in a diluted form. We have described below how to feed clematis in spring, summer and autumn.

Did you know? With proper care, feeding and watering, clematis can grow in one place for up to 30 years!

All about spring feeding of clematis

How to care for clematis in spring? During this period, the plant begins to grow abundantly and develop shoots. It is at this moment that the flowers really need a lot of nitrogen. Diluted is perfect for this. cow dung or bird droppings diluted in proportions of one to ten. If it is not possible to use organic fertilizers, you can take urea. Pre-mix all baits with water.

After the shoots begin to grow, it is advisable to carry out surface treatment with a weak urea emulsion. Before the onset of summer, all plants must be watered with so-called milk of lime. To prepare it, you just need to stir 150-200 g of chalk in ten liters of water. You need to feed and care for clematis once a week in the spring.

Important! When watering in summer, do not allow a stream of water to enter the middle of the bush.

How to fertilize clematis in summer


In summer, during the swelling of buds, nitrogen fertilizers are also necessary, but more important elements during this period it is potassium and phosphorus. For feeding, you can use complex mineral fertilizers. Ammofoska or nitrophoska are perfect for clematis. But they need to be supplemented with liquid, fermented manure or weed tincture. Next, the flowering process begins. During this period, it is better to stop feeding the plant if you want to prolong flowering. After the clematis has bloomed, you need to give the plant more potassium and phosphorus. The preparation "Autumn" or superphosphate is good. In August it is worth limiting nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen will promote active growth leaves, which can negatively affect the plant in the fall.

Important! Avoid fertilizers containing chlorine. It is contraindicated for clematis.

Features of feeding clematis in autumn

In the fall, you can stop feeding clematis. In mid-September you will only need to strew the base of the bushes with wood ash. The ash should be well sifted and compacted tightly under the base. It is recommended to use about half a kilogram of ash per bush.

For any gardener, beautiful, abundantly flowering clematis thickets are a source of special joy and pride. These perennial shrubby climbing vines of the Ranunculaceae family have excellent decorative properties. In order for them to appear as much as possible during the season, it is important to know how to feed clematis in the spring for lush flowering.

Today, there are a huge number of species, varietal and hybrid varieties of crops, carefully grown by domestic summer residents. The intensity and duration of clematis flowering depend on many factors: the characteristics of the variety (the activity of shoot formation and the number of shoots in the bush, the ratio of the vegetative and generative parts of the plant, the structure of the inflorescences, the pruning group), soil and climatic conditions and weather factors, and proper care.

The need for fertilizing

If, when planting the plant, the soil was well “filled” with fertilizers, it is advisable to apply fertilizing only from the second or even the third year of the growing season, when the bushes grow a large number of shoots and enter the age of full flowering.

Since during each season the above-ground part of the vine is almost completely renewed, the bushes bloom luxuriantly and for a long time on the shoots of the current year (3rd pruning group) or in two “waves” - on last year’s and young ones (2nd group), complete comprehensive nutrition vital for them. Experienced gardeners believe that in relation to clematis, like many others ornamental plants, you can’t get by with just organics. It must be used alternately, in combination with mineral fertilizers containing basic set NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) in different proportions, as well as necessary macro- and microelements (calcium, iron, magnesium, boron, copper, zinc, cobalt, manganese, etc.). Now there are many ready-made compositions, they are usually diluted in a proportion of 20-40 g per 10 liters of water.

You can read about vegetative methods of propagating clematis in the article on our website.

Types of fertilizers and timing of their application

In early spring, overwintered clematis are freed from shelter (mulch layer or air-dry structures), unearthed and sanitary pruning, removing partially broken, damaged or frost-damaged stems. At this stage, plants need nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which stimulate the growth and development of green mass.

As nitrogen source apply:

  • Firstly organics– solutions of slurry (1:10) and bird droppings (1:15) for liquid root feeding, which are carried out several times with an interval of about 2 weeks. It is recommended to mulch the soil with a layer of well-rotted manure, humus or peat, mixing them with wood ash and potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (100 g per bucket or in the dosage specified in the instructions);
  • mineral products– urea, nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate in a weak concentration (15 g per 10 liters of water), adding them in small portions alternately with organic fertilizers.
Be careful when using manure, which when fresh can burn the roots and shoots of plants. According to the degree of “readiness” and, accordingly, nutritional value for gardening and ornamental crops manure is defined as fresh, slightly decomposed, semi-rotted, rotted and humus.

Before carrying out root feeding, it is important to get rid of weeds and assess the degree of soil moisture. At high level it is better to sprinkle fertilizer under the bush in dry form, and if the soil is dry, then first clematis needs to be watered generously, then fed liquid solution and pour water again. Fertilized soil should be loosened.

After the shoots grow, it is important to provide nutrition not only to the root system, but also to the entire aboveground part. For this purpose they carry out foliar spraying urea solutions (20-30 g per 10 liters of water), ready-made preparations, for example, “Aquarin”, “Sortvorin” or “Master”, infusions of young weeds. Among them, nettle is considered especially effective - the technology for preparing nettle concentrate and the rules for its use are described in detail in a separate article.

For more effective absorption useful substances Spraying is done in dry, windless, cloudy weather or in the evening after sunset, so that the solution stays longer on the stems and leaves.

The condition of clematis is greatly influenced by the acidity level of the soil, so in the spring, to prevent acidification, many gardeners water the ground around the bushes with lime milk (200 g of freshly slaked lime per 10 liters of water) with the addition of wood ash(1 glass for each plant), sprinkle with chalk or dolomite flour (500-700 g per 1 m2). To prevent diseases, plants are advised to be treated with a 1% solution of copper or iron sulfate, Bordeaux mixture (3%).

Before flowering, around May-June, it is imperative to provide the decorative vine with a sufficient amount of potassium, which promotes the formation and formation of buds, stimulates the intensity of color of flowers and leaves, and increases the level of resistance to diseases and rot. In the spring, potassium nitrate is usually added (in a proportion of 20-30 g per 10 liters of water), and closer to autumn - potassium sulfate. Potash fertilizers work more effectively in small doses given in several doses, especially with sufficient moisture and cool temperatures.

After the flowers begin to bloom on the clematis, fertilizing is either completely stopped for the entire flowering period, or it is carried out in the summer no more than once a month using a foliar method. In general, the crop can be called unpretentious - for good condition the plants only need 4 feedings per season: an intensive spring “portion” of fertilizers and the application of phosphorus additives in August-September (for example, bone meal in the amount of 200 g per 1 m2) to strengthen the root system before preparing for winter.

Video

With your advice on feeding, optimal schedule and the composition of fertilizers for clematis are divided experienced flower growers in the following videos:

For several years she worked as a television program editor with leading producers of ornamental plants in Ukraine. At the dacha, of all types of agricultural work, she prefers harvesting, but for this she is ready to regularly weed, pull, shed, water, tie, thin out, etc. I am convinced that the most delicious vegetables and fruits are those grown with your own hands!

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Compost is rotted organic remains of various origins. How to do it? Put everything in a pile, hole or large box: kitchen scraps, tops garden crops, weeds mowed before flowering, thin branches. All this is layered with phosphate rock, sometimes straw, earth or peat. (Some summer residents add special composting accelerators.) Cover with film. During the process of overheating, the pile is periodically turned or pierced to bring in fresh air. Typically, compost “ripens” for 2 years, but with modern additives it can be ready in one summer season.

From varietal tomatoes you can get “your own” seeds for sowing next year (if you really like the variety). But it is useless to do this with hybrids: you will get seeds, but they will carry the hereditary material not of the plant from which they were taken, but of its numerous “ancestors”.

Convenient Android applications have been developed to help gardeners and gardeners. First of all, these are sowing (lunar, flower, etc.) calendars, thematic magazines, collections useful tips. With their help, you can choose a day favorable for planting each type of plant, determine the timing of their ripening and harvest on time.

One of the most convenient methods prepare the grown harvest of vegetables, fruits and berries - freezing. Some believe that freezing causes loss of nutrients and useful properties plant products. As a result of the research, scientists found that the decrease nutritional value when frozen it is practically absent.

It is believed that some vegetables and fruits (cucumbers, stem celery, all varieties of cabbage, peppers, apples) have “negative calorie content,” that is, during digestion, more calories are expended than they contain. In fact, only 10-20% of the calories received from food are consumed in the digestive process.

Both humus and compost are rightfully the basis organic farming. Their presence in the soil significantly increases the yield and improves the taste of vegetables and fruits. By properties and appearance they are very similar, but they should not be confused. Humus is rotted manure or bird droppings. Compost is rotted organic remains of various origins (spoiled food from the kitchen, tops, weeds, thin twigs). Humus is considered more high-quality fertilizer, compost is more accessible.

Natural toxins are found in many plants; Those grown in gardens and vegetable gardens are no exception. Thus, the seeds of apples, apricots, and peaches contain hydrocyanic acid, and the tops and peels of unripe nightshades (potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes) contain solanine. But do not be afraid: their number is too small.

You need to collect medicinal flowers and inflorescences at the very beginning of the flowering period, when the content of nutrients in them is highest. Flowers are supposed to be picked by hand, tearing off the rough stalks. Dry the collected flowers and herbs, scattering thin layer, in a cool room at natural temperature without access to direct sunlight.

In little Denmark, any piece of land is a very expensive pleasure. Therefore, local gardeners have adapted to growing fresh vegetables in buckets, large bags, and foam boxes filled with a special earthen mixture. Such agrotechnical methods make it possible to obtain a harvest even at home.

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