Floor on floor slabs in a private house. Floors: main types of floors

Wooden floors are a timeless classic that, despite the advent of numerous new technologies and materials, remains popular today. To install wooden floors, the boards are laid on wooden blocks called “joists.” And the floor is also called: “floors on joists” or “on joists.” The essence does not change.

The concept of “logs” includes a wide range of lumber:

• log sawn in half;
• bars rectangular section, in which one side is at least 1.5 times longer than the other;
• one thick board or two spliced ​​or glued together;

Logs are wooden blocks, planed logs, spliced ​​boards

These are the materials that can be used in the manufacture wooden floor on the joists with your own hands. There are also metal and polymer ones, but they come complete with industrial systems and are not used in private housing construction.

If we talk about wood, then coniferous species are most often used for laying under the floor. They have low prices, and due to their significant resin content, they are less susceptible to rotting.

Any wood must undergo antibacterial treatment before installation. For baths, it is also desirable to treat them with fire retardants - compounds that reduce the flammability of wood. Whether you choose ready-made impregnations for processing or impregnate with hot wax or drying oil is not so important, but this stage cannot be skipped.

Joists can be laid on concrete, but only under them you need to spread a waterproofing film

These bars rest on specially made structures - posts. This is if we are talking about a private house or bathhouse built on a columnar foundation. They are also laid directly on a concrete base. This is possible if:

• slab foundation;
• previously made as a base for a floor;
• the dimensions of the foundation allow for hanging logs;
• the floor is installed in apartments of multi-storey buildings.

What logs to use

You need to choose the size and number of bars based on the load and thickness of the floor boards. The cross-section of the logs and their thickness depend on the span length - the distance between two supports. The greater the distance between the supports, the more powerful the beam required. There are no such requirements for logs installed on a concrete base. Here, most often, the dimensions are selected based on the dimensions of the insulation, and the thickness of the board that will be laid on the floor.

The pitch for the logs (the distance between two adjacent bars) is selected from 30 cm to 100 cm. It depends on the thickness of the floor board. The correspondence is shown in the table. A step of 50 cm is considered optimal for baths. The thickness of the board is 25-30 mm.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation pitch of the logs

There are also some recommendations on the width of the floorboard - do not take it too wide for the bath - as the humidity increases, it will warp more, which can even create difficulties when moving. Average width - the best choice for baths.

It is advisable to lay the logs in one piece, without joints. But if necessary, they can be spliced. To do this, either cut a tongue and groove into half a tree, or connect them end-to-end, securing them on at least two sides with pieces of boards at least 1 meter long.

Location rules

The first and last lags from the wall should be at a distance of no more than 20 cm. If, while observing the calculated step, the outermost lags are located further, their number is increased and the step is reduced.

They are placed either along the wall in which the door is located, or perpendicular to it. If one wall is much longer than the other, then it is along this long wall and place logs. If the room is square or similar in shape, then the location of the window may influence the choice: floorboards look best if they are located along the flow of light. That is, in this case, the logs are placed along the wall in which there is a window.

Floor installation using joists

A wooden floor can be with or without a subfloor. The type of floor installation is determined by the groundwater level. If they are located closer than 2 m, an underground floor is required. In all other cases - optional.

If the groundwater is deep, you can make wooden floors on the ground. There are very cheap option, but it is also the coldest: there is no insulation, so this option is either for seasonal houses (dachas and bathhouses) or for regions with a very warm climate. The only requirement is a high base.

Installing a floor using joists with a cold subfloor

If the waters lie close to the surface, wooden structures needs to be raised. Then they arrange special bases-columns, on which the logs are already placed. In this case, additional moisture insulation measures are required.

Concrete floor joists

If there is already a concrete base - a floor slab, screed or slab foundation, it is easier to make a wooden floor. Installing joists on a concrete floor takes little time; exactly how long depends on the height difference and the required adjustments. The order of actions and layers is as follows:

For baths, the choice of material depends on the type of room. For a steam room with its high temperatures, it is advisable to choose heat insulators that are not afraid of high temperatures. But they should not be afraid of humidity.

On the other hand, in the floor area the temperature rarely rises above 30°C, and under the boards it will be even less, so the question of temperatures can be removed. Moisture resistance remains. Expanded polystyrene and expanded clay meet these conditions. You can also use mineral wool mats, but they are susceptible to dampness, so it is advisable to insulate them well. As an option, each mat is hermetically sealed in a thick film.

Sometimes, for convenience, additional jumpers are installed between the lags. Such a frame for laying floorboards requires more materials, but allows you to save on the floorboard: it can be used with less thickness, since the supports are located more often.

Eat quick option installation - installation of adjustable joists. Adjustable joists are wooden or plywood blocks with studs and an adjustment system (nuts) built into them. By rotating the nut in one direction or the other, you change the level of the joists relative to the floor. The studs themselves are embedded in the floor.

This is what adjustable joists look like

It takes 3-5 days to install such a floor, but its cost is about 15-20% more expensive than the usual version. But the boards, with a sufficient degree of moisture insulation, will last a long time: there is no direct contact with a humid environment and they will not be damaged. Among the disadvantages: they “eat up” extra centimeters of ceiling height. For some this is not critical, but for others it is very important.

Wooden floor on the ground

For private houses, cottages and bathhouses it is often necessary to make the cheapest flooring. And this is a floor on joists on the ground. Material costs are minimal here, but the floor turns out to be cold. So this is either for summer houses or for southern regions. In other regions, space heating costs will be very high.

To install such a floor on the joists, the following work is carried out:

The installation of such a cold floor does not require much time. You also need a little money.

Insulated option

Warm floors on the ground require high costs but still he remains inexpensive option. Preparing the pit is exactly the same: removing the fertile layer and compacting the remaining clean soil. Here are the differences:

• The bottom and walls of the pit are lined with waterproofing materials.
• Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured in a layer of 8-10 cm, compacted well, and then poured with cement laitance. Drying and setting of the layer lasts at least a day, then work can be continued.

Cement laitance is cement diluted with water. Its consistency is more like liquid kefir. Most often, the proportions are as follows: take three or four parts of water to one part of cement. This operation serves to adhere the bedding. A fairly strong foundation is formed.

In order not to bother with setting the lag - a long and troublesome task - align it to the level. This is easier to do with the beacons installed.

Floor on poles

When installing a wooden floor on pillars, there is a subfloor. It may be insulated or not. The floor can also be cold or insulated in any of the options.

Floor posts

Floor posts are made of brick, small concrete blocks, or use the “FL” type. You can use bitumen-impregnated wooden blocks as posts. Some people place boulders of suitable size with a flat top on the base. Boulders are good support, but attaching logs to them is problematic.

Each column has its own foundation. The size of the base is 2-10 cm larger than the column. The depth of the foundation depends on the type of soil, but usually 10 cm is enough.

If groundwater is located close, the logs are raised. They make supports for them - brick pillars

There are two options for making bases for posts: make formwork for each separately, or fill it with a single tape. The first method is more economical in terms of material consumption, but the second takes less time: making one or two general formworks is faster than making many small ones.

The location of the supports is marked with a pencil on the foundation or on the lower crown (on the element to which the logs will be attached). Then the threads are stretched between the marks, and the formwork for the posts is already knocked down along them. There are other marking methods, but this one is the fastest and most accurate.

The dimensions of the formwork for the posts are 2-10 cm larger than the post itself, the height is 10 cm. Several bars of smooth reinforcement are laid inside, on the compacted soil, and they are filled with standard cement-sand mortar. Wait for the solution to set for at least 3 days, then you can lay out columns on the base.

When pouring, it is necessary to monitor the height of the foundations: it must be the same. In principle, it can then be corrected by adding a solution, but again you will have to wait 3 days. Therefore, try to immediately make them the same height.

Ruberoid is laid on the finished base, possibly in two layers. Then the columns are folded. It is recommended to put roofing felt on top of them, and then also a three-centimeter wooden board impregnated with antibacterial compounds. The logs will already be laid on it.

As you can see, it takes a long time to make floor posts. If you need to speed up the process, you can supply ready-made concrete blocks or beams, you can lay asbestos-cement pipes on a well-compacted bedding. Some people put up boulders or tarred logs. There is another option - drive pieces of metal or asbestos-cement pipes into the ground, stick several bars of reinforcement into them and fill them with concrete. There is probably more than one option, because our craftsmen are famous for their ingenuity.

This is what the finished joists look like

By the way, there is another option, but without support: hanging logs. Such a device for a wooden floor is possible in narrow rooms, which is not always the case (take the step of laying the joists a little more often than in versions with supports).

Hanging logs - a super fast option

Warm and cold underground

If the logs are raised above the ground, there is free space underneath them. There are two ways out. Leave the subfloor uninsulated or insulate it. Moreover, in each of the options it is still possible to insulate the floor structure or not, and it itself can be single or double. So there are a lot of options here.

An uninsulated subfloor can be made with a single or double plank floor. Some options are shown in the figure. Moreover, the insulated floor is only available in one version - at the bottom right.

Floor options for joists with subfloor

You can insulate the subfloor very simply: lay any non-hygroscopic insulation on a layer of waterproofing (roofing felt, roofing felt, film, etc.). Expanded clay is often used; among modern materials, slab foam propylene has performed very well; it behaves a little worse, but it costs less, so it is also used often. Sometimes the space is filled with foamed polyethylene - all the insulation takes several hours, but they do this only with special devices, so you either have to rent them or pay a specialist for the work.

When using any of these insulation materials for ventilation of a wooden floor, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm to the rough or finishing coating.

Warm and cold floor

Cold plank flooring with joists can be single or double. Warm - only double: the insulation needs to be laid on something. One of the options is shown in the photo.

A cranial block is attached to the joists on the sides below, and boards of the rough (skull) floor are laid on it. The bars should be thick enough to easily nail the decking. Can be used on subfloors unedged board, but just be sure to remove the bark and soak it well with antiseptics: woodworm larvae often nest under the bark.

Next, waterproofing (membrane or film) is laid, and insulation is placed on top. Here you can use all the same materials as for insulating the underground, plus (if you are satisfied with their ecology). But in the case of laying mineral wool, they must also be covered with waterproofing on top - they really do not like water, and when wet they lose their properties. The entire cake should take up so much space that there is 5 cm left to the floor boards.

Ventilation of wooden floors on joists

It is also necessary to provide ventilation holes in the baseboards. According to standards, a room up to 15 m2 requires two vents, total area which are at least 20-30 cm 2. They are installed in the baseboards of opposite walls, covered with metal decorative grilles.

To improve the draft and protect the subfloor from rodents getting into it, you can install a tin pipe in the vent, with an umbrella on top of it

For normal ventilation of the floor of the basement part of the foundation, ventilation ducts must be provided. To be able to somehow regulate the flow of air, you can make dampers. Can be withdrawn ventilation pipe beyond the foundation, raise it above the base, and make an umbrella on top of it so that precipitation does not fall into it.

Construction of a private house is a complex multi-stage process that takes a large number of time. And if you are not a professional, then you are unlikely to be able to do it yourself. After all, without special knowledge can't get by here. But some steps can still be done with your own hands. For example, flooring. We won't say it's easy, but it's possible. So let's figure out how to make a floor with your own hands in a private house.

There are three designs of the floor base on which the finishing material will be laid:

• By concrete slab ceilings
• Along the floor beams.
• Concrete floor on the ground.

Floor on slab

Essentially reinforced concrete hollow core slab ceilings are already a finished floor. It is laid on the base of the foundation or on the walls of the building, which are filled with a reinforcing frame. It turns out a small but strong foundation right on the walls.

Such a plate, manufactured at the factory, goes through several stages of control, so its strength characteristics meet all the necessary standards. But the evenness of the surface leaves much to be desired. But this is not a problem, because such a concrete floor undergoes additional processing, insulation and finishing. So the evenness of the surface will ultimately have maximum parameters.

According to construction technology, installing a floor slab is the fastest process. For this you will need crane, which will install this reinforced concrete product anywhere in the building in a few minutes. But the floor arrangement does not end there.

What else needs to be done with the floor slab?

First, it is necessary to seal the joints between the slabs. To do this, they are filled with concrete mortar. To prevent the joint from leaking, formwork is installed on its lower side. It could be regular board, which is supported from below by a stand or support. The same board can be pulled with wire to the lower plane of the slab, secured to a pipe or other metal profile located on top of the slab across the joint.

Secondly, roll waterproofing material is laid. Please note that multi-strip installation must meet certain requirements:

• All strips are laid overlapping with edges offset up to 15 centimeters.
• To completely seal the layer, the edges of the material are sealed with self-adhesive tape, for example, construction tape.
• The waterproofing layer is applied to the walls up to the level of laying the finishing floor covering.

Thirdly, if you want the floor to meet the requirements of comfortable living, then on the first floor of the building it must be insulated. True, today many experts are of the opinion that the floor on any floor should be insulated. Therefore we lay thermal insulation material.

Modern market offers huge selection insulation, so finding something necessary specifically for your floor will not be difficult. There are also traditional ones on the market inexpensive materials, and new products with excellent qualities and properties. Most often, expanded clay is poured onto the floor or slabs of extruded polystyrene foam are laid. Manufacturers of mineral wool began to produce dense products in mats that are not inferior in characteristics to either expanded clay or penoplex.

Fourthly, another layer of waterproofing is installed. Use the same material as in the first layer, and using the same technology.

Fifthly, the screed is poured or installed. More on this in a little more detail.

Features of creating a screed

How to make a floor screed

There are three types of screeds:

1. Regular wet based on cement-sand mortar.
2. Semi-dry from ready-made building mixtures.
3. Dry based on durable tile materials - plywood, gypsum fiber board, chipboard.

All options are used equally often, and the choice should be based on the time in which you need to meet. If it's pressing, then best option- this is a dry screed. If you have enough time, then you can take any other variety.

Attention! To increase the strength of a wet or semi-dry screed, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing frame made of metal fittings or wire. It is important here that the frame is located in the body of the screed, and not on its border.

The difficulty of laying the screed layer is that it must be precisely aligned and built in one horizontal plane. If you do not know some of the nuances, the error can be very large. Therefore, we advise you to read the articles on our website, where step-by-step instruction pouring or installing screed on the floor.

This is what the diagram for constructing a floor on a concrete floor slab looks like. Many private developers who have tried different ways when arranging the floor, they say that this option is the simplest and most convenient. And it doesn’t matter what kind of screed will be used to level the surface of the slab.

Floor on floor beams

This option is not uncommon on construction sites in private housing construction. But not everyone can build such a structure. First of all, because the floor can be built on floor beams only by installing additional elements in the form of joists. It is not possible to lay out the sexual base in any other way. And the most important thing is that these logs will have to be aligned to achieve a flat surface.

Let's consider a scheme for carrying out such work. Typically, large-section wooden beams are used as floor beams. You can use metal profiles and concrete beams, but both of these options are expensive, and attaching a joist structure to metal and concrete is much more difficult. Therefore, wooden beams are the best option. They are laid on the base part of the foundation with the obligatory lining of waterproofing material - a piece of roofing felt or roofing felt. Align wooden beams in a plane is not necessary, and this is inconvenient, because the weight of each element is quite large. Leveling the floor is carried out using lags.

There are logs on the beams. These can be the same small-section wooden beams or boards laid on the end. The lags are fastened to the beams either with self-tapping screws or with special metal corners. The second option is used more often because it is more reliable. But that's not all. Metal mounting angles allow you to raise or lower the joists, thereby simplifying the process of leveling the floor base.

How to level the floor along the joists

Floor installation on joists

The alignment scheme is quite simple. First, two logs are placed in the same plane and exactly horizontally on opposite sides near the walls. We remind you that this can be done using fastening metal corners. But you will still have to install pads under the logs - wooden, plastic or metal plates.

The evenness of each joist must be checked building level. And in order to determine the location of two lags in the same plane, a rule or a long rod is installed on them, and it is this that is checked for horizontalness. Now 3-4 rows of threads are stretched between the lags so that they do not sag, and intermediate structural elements are placed along them.

Attention! The height of the logs is selected according to the zero level, which is previously applied to the walls in the form of a contour around the perimeter of the room.

Flooring

Usually a floor made of boards is built along the joists. This traditional version, which has several advantages:

• The plank floor is easily insulated. To do this, longitudinal slats are nailed along the lower edges of the joists, along which the subfloor is installed. Then a vapor barrier is laid, and on top of it is insulation, which is covered with a waterproofing roll material, for example, polyethylene film.
• In this design, communication systems and networks can be laid.
• It is possible to mount heating system"warm floor".

Plank flooring is beautiful and warm covering, which does not need to be decorated with others finishing material. You can simply paint it or apply a colorless varnish, which will only emphasize the beauty of the natural component of the floor covering.

Other flooring options on beams

The plank floors of the first floor can be laid on posts

Sometimes beams are not used as support for joists. The joist structure itself is a support for the floor base. If the house is small, then the logs are installed with their ends directly on the foundation, and this is enough to withstand heavy loads. If the room is of decent size, then additional intermediate supports in the form of columns will have to be installed under the logs. They can be built from brick, stone, concrete or finished products- reinforced concrete columns, metal pipes and other metal profiles. Choose the simplest and cheapest option, for example, brick columns.

Please note a few very important points:

1. The support columns should be located at such a distance from each other that the loads on the joists are distributed evenly - 40–50 centimeters is enough. Although everything will depend on the cross-section of the logs used. The larger it is, the less frequently supports can be installed. So the distance between them can reach up to 80 centimeters.
2. The upper planes of the columns must be horizontal and in the same plane.
3. A small foundation must be poured under each support.
4. Waterproofing material is laid on the upper plane of each column.

Floor on the ground

Floor installation in a private house

This option for constructing a floor in a private house can be considered a subtype of installation on a floor slab, because the result will be a concrete base. But the works themselves differ significantly from the first version. They are more labor-intensive, they use a large number of different building materials, and besides, the design of the floor base itself is a multi-layer cake.

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. First, soft soil is removed to a depth of up to half a meter. The bottom of the pit must be compacted, and a cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured onto it. These two materials can be replaced with gravel. Please note that each layer of backfill must be compacted, and the sand can be watered.
2. Waterproofing material is laid. The technology is the same as in other processes.
3. Expanded clay or perlite is poured as insulation.
4. A reinforcing frame made of metal is installed welded mesh. It is important that the frame is in the body of the screed, so lift it above the level of the laid materials.
5. A concrete solution is poured, which will subsequently serve as the base of the floor. Particular attention must be paid to pouring the mortar, because a smooth and durable floor is the key to the quality of the entire foundation. On such a floor it will be possible to immediately lay finishing, or you can install a joist structure. By the way, heated floors can also be installed perfectly on it.

Conclusion on the topic

So, we figured out how to make a floor. In our case, options for constructing a foundation without finishing processes were considered. After all, it is precisely this type of work that private developers have the most questions about. Because, firstly, it is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. And, secondly, finishing the floor with any floor covering is much easier. So choose the construction option, take our recommendations into account and get to work.

Ruslan Vasiliev

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs ensures comfortable living for people in the room.

Schematic diagram of a wood-chip floor.

Floor base

Classification of floors is made by type of coating:

• planks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single-layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate empty.

Required tool:

Scheme of the ceiling over the ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor construction

Mainly used in . They are made from several layers over colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on top, and a hard floor covering is placed on it - piece parquet or parquet panels. Plates are used for sound insulation Fiberboard brand 4, 12, 20.

Single layer construction

This floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If unevenness is detected, it is necessary to make a leveling layer. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be linoleum on a bioresistant basis, which is not subject to rotting processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of separate hollow core covering

Diagram of a soundproofing floor.

First, a soundproofing layer is laid over the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the finished floor material is laid on them: parquet boards, tongue-and-groove boards or wooden boards. If the room has a continuous flooring made of unplaned boards, then fiberboard slabs are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow-core floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80*40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floor covering, the distance between the joists is determined. How thinner material, the more often the bars are laid.

Installation of a separate hollow-core floor

Scheme for installing floorboards yourself.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate of class B12.5, density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar; uneven areas must simply be sanded. A gap of 20-30 mm is made between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room along the perimeter, which is filled with soundproofing material and subsequently covered with a plinth.

The outer covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top of the screed. It is laid overlapping or the joints are coated with bitumen mortar. Then lay a layer of sound insulation made of mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard boards up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor arrangement diagram.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet panels, piece parquet) a popular material for the construction of floors. The installation of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. Floors look good piece parquet, made with a “Christmas tree” pattern with or without friezes.

First, you need to mark the rows of coverage to reduce waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and the lighthouse “Christmas tree” is laid on it. Focusing on it, the floor covering is installed with careful connection and fastening of each parquet strip using magpie nails, driving two into the side groove and one into the end groove. The caps are pressed deeper into the material using a hammer.

The installation of block parquet floors on screeds is made using a hot or cold bitumen solution in a “Christmas tree” pattern without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it using a special parquet planing machine or with a hand plane; After sharpening, baseboards are installed, scraping and sanding of the floor are done. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Floor insulation diagram for the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for finishing floors. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to impacts chemical substances, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular among developers. Disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, the linoleum is first kept in a rolled-out state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to absorb even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the bases must be level, clean, dry and strong. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rod. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard slabs, chipboards, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, sand and cement mortar composition 3:1, which is laid on a rigid and solid preparation layer up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of previously made screeds must be clean and smooth. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a composition of 1:2. Permissible humidity grounds - no more than 10%.

The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the preparation of bases for gluing linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Floor sound insulation diagram.

They should be quite tough. The base boards should not sag. Before gluing linoleum, the base of the floor must be well treated: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be filled, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting of the joints between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well sunk into the material, and the slabs are glued to the concrete or cement-sand screed with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed slabs is leveled by smoothing out the bulges, sealing the seams with mastic, priming and filling with oil putty. Then lay linoleum.

Ceramic tile floors

To install a floor on floor slabs from ceramic tiles, a base is first made - a monolithic screed made of cement with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3:1; 4:1), the installation of which is carried out over a waterproofing layer. When installing the floor on wooden base it is necessary to stick hot on the flooring bitumen mastic waterproofing, then put reinforced mesh and put the solution over it. To install the screed, you should use beacon wooden slats, installed level along the walls of the room. Place the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the lighthouse slats. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with solution.

Scheme of floor covering and insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Lay out the floor according to the selected pattern of the future covering, after which you should check the rectangularity of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row located closer to the wall. According to the marks made on clean floor, lighthouse tiles are laid. Then corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed along the cord and ruler. The prepared mortar is used to seal and lay the first row of tiles. After laying the frieze rows, they begin laying the tiles of the main floor covering pattern. In order not to step on already laid tiles, they begin to be laid from the far wall.

The solution used should be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, you should slightly settle it with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the block placed on top. Checking the horizontality of laid tiles is carried out as a rule. The seams between them must be free of mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is carried out 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. Remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Cover the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

Installation of laminated parquet floors

A modern building material for covering floors on floor slabs is laminated parquet. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, waterproof fiberboard boards, covered with a layer that imitates wood. Dimensions of the planks: length - 1.2-1.7 m, width - up to 18 cm, thickness - from 6 to 14 mm. The laminate planks are coated on top with acrylate or melamine resin to protect them from mechanical damage.

Concrete screed is used as a base for the floor as often as possible. This is due to high performance characteristics. The introduction of special additives makes the solution plastic, in addition, it is characterized by high adhesion. After maturation, the structure becomes insensitive to moisture and can be used indoors and outdoors.

Traditional concrete screeds have a thick or semi-dry consistency. The basis is a cement mortar of a grade not lower than M150, taken in a ratio of cement and sand 1:3. To knead, the dry ingredients are first mixed, after which mixing occurs with water.

The result is a traditional design with a compressive strength of about 25 MPa. In residential premises the minimum strength is 12 MPa, in premises with high loads - 20 MPa. Therefore, concrete screeds have a good margin of safety and all the prerequisites for long-term operation.

Sand, gravel, and crushed stone can be used as filler. The size of the aggregate should not be more than 1/3 of the entire thickness of the structure.

Semi-dry varieties contain less water. This provides much greater compressive strength - about 35 MPa.

The solution can be supplied using a pneumatic pump or manually

Plus, such systems are less susceptible to shrinkage, and therefore cracking. Modifiers can be added to such solutions to accelerate hardening, increase ductility and density.

Another option for preparing solutions is the use of ready-made mixtures. You just need to add water to them right on the construction site. The amount of mixing water is always specified by the manufacturer.

In most cases, the formulation includes reinforcing fibers, which successfully prevents shrinkage and cracking. Prepared solutions may have a thick, semi-liquid or semi-dry consistency. Semi-liquid mixtures are optimally distributed over the base, forming a self-leveling screed - this is ideal finishing layer for laying floor coverings.

The quality of solutions can be improved by introducing polymer additives, which accelerates setting. Porcelain stoneware and ceramic coatings can be laid on such screeds after only 24 hours; some mixtures allow finishing work to be carried out after 4 hours.

The market offers a product that can be prepared and served using concrete pumps. The strength of such solutions reaches 55 MPa. Besides, ready mix– optimal option for screeds with underfloor heating. However, you should check that the possibility of such use is indicated on the packaging. According to this technology, the solution should cover the coolants to a thickness of 2 cm.

Types of ties

If speak about design features, all screeds are divided into those connected to the base or made on a separating layer. The separating layer is a dense polyethylene film or a heat and sound insulation system.

The installation technology in each case is similar, regardless of the type of structure. The difference lies in the principles of preparing the base and in thickness.

Distinctive characteristics:

• related– have a connection with the structural part of the object. This is either a concrete floor slab on the ground or a floor slab. Such screeds function in conjunction with the base on which they are laid. Before installation of the concrete slab in mandatory it is primed, that is, it is necessary to create a layer that works for high adhesion;
• on the separating layer– performed if the base is: 1. Moist, 2. Contaminated with fats, 3. There is high absorption, 4. Too weak. The structure is poured over the separating layer. Usually this is a polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick. The material is always laid with an overlap (10 cm), overlapping the walls. After completion of the work, the excess is cut off;
• floating– a solution for places where the level of impact noise needs to be reduced or the base is too weak. The substrate (soundproofing layer) is laid using special materials. It could be natural cork, polymer boards, corrugated cardboard sheets, mineral mats, 30-40 mm thick. A polyethylene film is laid over the thermal insulation, and then the solution is poured. If the room is located above an unheated area, you should take care of the issue of thermal insulation.

Plates insulation material placed with dressing, that is, with the seams shifted relative to each other

Floor installation on a concrete base

Laying begins if the air and base temperatures are within +5-25 degrees. Before starting work, the surface is thoroughly cleaned using construction vacuum cleaner, hard brushes or using special equipment. The goal is to remove all contaminants that could weaken adhesion.

To increase adhesion, the concrete base is primed. If grease stains and cracks are noted, a separating layer based on polyethylene film is used instead of a primer layer. Along vertical structures and walls, an expansion joint should be made. For this, damper tape or strips of polystyrene foam, 1 cm thick, are used. The material is fixed with an adhesive solution.

Guide profiles-beacons are installed on the slides of quick-setting mortar. Maintain a distance of 20 cm from the walls, about 1.5 m between them. Before fixing to the base, the profiles are lubricated with an anti-adhesive mixture if they are to be removed later. Using a level, check the placement of the beacons in the same plane.

The solution prepared in a concrete mixer is evenly distributed between the guides. The composition is laid in excess, so that it protrudes slightly above the level of the beacons. After tamping with a float, the surface is leveled using the rule.

The tool is moved in a zigzag motion. The rule is moved towards you, removing excess mixture. If on finished site shells remain, they are immediately removed and the leveling is carried out again.

When the solution has set, the beacons should be removed. Work as carefully as possible so as not to damage the freshly laid structure. On semi-dry screeds, profiles are removed 2-3 after installation. The resulting voids are filled with cement-sand mortar. The surface is rubbed with a grater, performing circular movements.

As a result, a smooth, slightly rough screed will be formed., which will ensure high adhesion of the finishing layers.

How to arrange expansion joints

When filling large areas, it is necessary to cut intermediate expansion joints. This stage is carried out after grouting using a spatula, or later using a diamond disc.

Wall seams are performed at the first stage of work along all vertical elements, including columns and stairs. The seam is made across the entire thickness of the structure, taking on the stresses that arise during the deformation process and impact noises.

Intermediate seams divide the surface into smaller maps. Their purpose is to prevent cracking as a result of shrinkage of the drying structure.

Features of the work:

• the depth of the seam is selected based on the thickness of the screed and the presence of underfloor heating systems - most often it is 1/2 or 1/3 of the thickness of the screed;
• if reinforcement is provided, cutting is carried out between the reinforcement meshes;
• intermediate expansion joints should divide the surface into cards with a side of 6 m, an area not exceeding 30 sq.m.;
• V long corridors take into account the width of the room. The lower this indicator, the more seams there should be. Notches are made at a distance that is a multiple of 2 dimensions of the width of the corridor;
• seams are always placed in places where changes in the thickness of the screed are provided and where different floor coverings will be joined. The tile joints must coincide with the expansion joints. The seams under laminate and parquet are left unfilled, including in the case of stone and tile flooring. The exception is terraces and any outdoor areas.

The seams of terraces and outdoor areas are filled with waterproof silicone sealants, adhesive masses

Subtleties of reinforcement

The need to implement this stage depends on the magnitude of the loads and the thickness of the structure. Reinforcement is required in more thin systems, thickness 3.5-4 cm. For this they take steel mesh 10*10 or 15*15 cm. The wire diameter can be 3-4 mm.

The material can be laid on spacer profiles. After installation, you should begin laying the solution. Reinforced concrete mixtures fibrous materials and ready gypsum mixtures no need to reinforce with mesh.

Level determination

It is recommended to determine the screed level on the entire floor at once, focusing on the thickness of the floor coverings that will be laid subsequently. So that all floors are on on a single level, the thickness of the structures may vary in individual rooms.

Work always starts where the structure will be thickest, say, in areas with underfloor heating. Heated floor screeds have a minimum thickness of 4 cm. When calculating the height in adjacent areas, the thickness of the finishing coatings is taken into account.

An exception may be areas where water spillage is possible. Here the floor level should be lower than in other places by about 1 cm. Accurate measurements should be a priority only if you plan to install thresholds.

Technology breaks

Breaks are allowed after laying the mortar in each individual room. It is best to fill it so that it extends a few centimeters beyond the threshold. The layer is cut off at the place where the expansion joint will pass, then the remaining mixture is removed from it. After the break, it is from here that you can continue the device in other rooms.

When preparing a solution, you should focus on its viability. Let's say a traditional concrete solution should be placed within 120 minutes. If ready-made dry mixtures are used, the pot life period is indicated in the instructions. Usually it is 60-120 minutes.

Work breaks should be determined taking into account the grouting cycle. Classic concrete screeds are rubbed down 8-10 hours after installation. Semi-dry - after 3-4 hours. In general, grouting is required only for the installation of roll coverings. Tile materials like some surface roughness.

Care

In order for a traditional concrete screed to gain the required strength, care should be taken to moisten it after completion of work. Water spraying is carried out within 7 days after pouring. The room where the structure is located must be closed so that a draft does not cause too rapid drying.

It is reasonable to cover the finished surface with plastic film. This will increase hydration due to condensation that forms on inside. In some cases, a layer of wet sawdust is laid out on the surface.

As strength gains, the moisture level of concrete will drop to 3%

After a week, all films or sawdust are removed. You can ventilate the room.

If dismantling is required

Often, when working on ready-made concrete foundations, it is necessary to dismantle the old screed. This is dictated by considerations of structural integrity and strength. Old screeds can peel off and crack, which is always transferred to fresh layers. In addition, the need for dismantling is due to too high loads on the floor slabs.

Removal old design carried out using several methods:

• diamond drilling– dismantling is carried out using special installations. According to the technology, cylindrical holes are drilled in the thickness of the concrete and the screed is removed;
• diamond cutting– they operate here as professional seam cutters. The equipment allows dismantling if there is no reinforcement in the concrete layer and the thickness of the structure does not exceed 30 cm;
• impact method- the simplest and most economical option. It is effective, but requires labor. The layer is removed using perforators and jackhammers.

After dismantling, sludge inevitably forms, which is carried outside the work site. After this, the base is inspected for damage. If they are identified, repairs are carried out.

Features of screeds for heated floors

When working with this type of structure, the placement of expansion joints must be thought out in advance. They must be located between each section of the heated floor for the entire thickness of the screed. Damper tapes divide the area into maps, usually with an area of ​​3 * 3 m and are fixed before work is completed.

Both traditional and semi-dry screeds work with underfloor heating. But, the second option is more preferable, although expensive. Concrete is supplied by a pneumatic pump, placing it alternately on each card, delimited by a damper tape.

Installation of a concrete floor on the ground

The technology is in demand in garages, basements, and in a wide variety of outbuildings, in private residential buildings.

Before starting work, you should take into account the requirements for the soil layer:

• the soil must be dry;
• depth of groundwater – at least 4-5 m;
• installing a floor on moving soils is unacceptable.

The structure is installed in rooms operated (heated) in winter. Otherwise, the soil will freeze and the screed will deform. It is better to start work after finishing the construction of the walls and roof.

The installation of a concrete floor on the ground requires special attention to waterproofing

The first stage of the technology is marking

The task of this stage is to correctly determine the zero level.

To do this, do the following:

• 100 cm upward from the bottom of the doorway. A mark is placed on the adjacent wall;
• such marks are transferred along the entire perimeter and connected into a single line;
• from the base line measure 100 cm down strictly vertically. Put a mark;
• the marks are transferred around the entire perimeter and the zero level is displayed;
• by moving the zero level to the required distance, you can set optimal thickness screeds;
• According to the zero level, dowels are driven into the corners of the room, along which the tapping cord is pulled.

Cleaning and compacting soil

If there is construction debris on the base, it is removed. Next, the top layer of soil is sampled. The technology involves the construction of a multi-layer structure, 30-35 cm thick, and it is to this thickness that the soil is excavated. The reference point is the zero level.

Start tamping and leveling the base. A special vibrating plate is used. They work with the tool until they get a dense and even base, without recesses or grooves.

For additional leveling, strengthening, and waterproofing of the structure, it makes sense to install a sand cushion. The average backfill thickness is 5 cm. The layer is moistened and compacted. You can do it differently by laying a layer of clay with moisture and compaction, and then a layer of sand. This solution will provide additional protection from moisture.

Next, a gravel layer is arranged. Its thickness varies between 5-10 cm. It must be compacted. Another 10 cm layer of sand is laid on it + compaction is carried out. If required, you can strengthen the cushion with another layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 4-5 cm and a finishing thin layer of sand. Each layer is always checked for level.

Moisture and heat insulation device

To protect the concrete screed from moisture leakage, special membranes with waterproofing properties or a dense polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns are used. The protection device is extremely simple. The material is laid out on the base, extending onto the walls above the design level of the structure. An overlap of 10-15 cm and gluing the joints with waterproof construction tape is required.

To organize the insulating layer, use following materials to choose from:

• isolon (in rolls);
• coarse expanded clay;
• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool slabs.

Roll insulation is also laid overlapping with the joints coated with bitumen mastic. Expanded clay is poured to the required thickness and compacted.

Mats and slabs of foam plastic or mineral wool are laid staggered so that the seams overlap

Reinforcement of screed on the ground

Since the structure is multilayer, the reinforcement stage is mandatory. The base material can be steel or fiberglass. As an alternative, you can take a rebar and tie it into a mesh.

The cell size depends on the design loads on the structure. For short ones it is 20*20 cm, for medium ones – 15*15 cm, for tall ones – 10*10 cm. The sheets are tied together with flexible metal wire.

The system must be placed in the thickness of concrete, so installation is carried out using special stands - chairs. The height of the chairs should reach 20-30 cm.

Installation of guides and formwork

According to technology, further work impossible to do without installing guides.

To do this, do the following:

• the base is divided into several cards 200 cm wide, the sections are separated by guides. The main material is a galvanized metal profile;
• all profiles are set strictly at the same level;
• fixation is carried out using slides of concrete mortar.

Formwork should be installed between the guides. This way you can get complete fill maps. Each section is sequentially filled with concrete. For formwork, waterproof plywood sheets or boards are traditionally used.

Before the beginning next stage work, check the correct installation of the guides with a level. If differences are detected, the position of the beacons is changed. Otherwise, it will not be possible to make a smooth concrete floor. Formwork elements are processed special composition, which will allow them to be easily removed later.

Pouring concrete

The concrete solution is poured according to pre-prepared maps. For work, it is convenient to use ready-made concrete, which is quickly supplied and distributed over the base and allows you to obtain the most uniform and monolithic structure.

If a decision is made to self-cooking mixtures, use a concrete mixer. Cement (M400-M500 according to grade strength), sand in a ratio of 1:2 is loaded into it, then crushed stone is added - 4 parts and water half the amount of cement. The amount of mixing water may vary depending on the moisture content of the aggregate. The mixture is processed in a concrete mixer until maximum homogeneity is obtained.

Work starts from the far corner. Several cards are filled out in one technological approach. The solution is leveled with a shovel and compacted with vibrators. Then they work as a rule, moving it along the guides towards themselves.

When processing is complete, one day after pouring, the formwork is removed from the structure. The resulting voids are filled with solution. The surface is covered with a film and regularly moistened with water.

Pouring self-leveling mixture

The material is mixed with water and applied to the floor, starting from the far corner

Pouring a leveling compound will hide minor imperfections and provide a perfectly flat surface. As a rule, ready-made dry mixtures are used. Allocation is traditionally done using a rule. Further the composition is left until fully ripened, usually for 2-3 days. The actual timing is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.

Strengthening concrete floors

When the screed is ready, it makes sense to start strengthening it, especially if the structure will be used in harsh conditions. This way the surface will become resistant to mechanical, temperature and chemical influences. In practice, strengthening with dry toppings and the introduction of special impregnations are most often used.

Impregnations and sealers are applied to new concrete 1-2 weeks after pouring. The compositions are spread over the surface by pouring and distributed using squeegees, rollers or spatulas. Half an hour after coating, chemical reactions and gelation begin.

To make the process more active, the floor is additionally moistened. When the surface is completely saturated, the remaining sealers are washed off with water, and the screed is cleaned with a squeegee or a clean rag. Next, the concrete is left until completely mature.

If a strengthening method such as topping is chosen, corundum, quartz or metal fillers can be used. The work is carried out using special troweling machines. It is better to plan the introduction of toppings in advance, since such manipulations oblige high-quality processing screeds using vibrating slats or deep vibrators. The solution formulation itself should not contain plasticizers or other additives.

The hardener is first applied after initial setting, usually 3-6 hours after pouring. The footprint of the shoe should not fall into the layer by more than 5 mm. 2/3 of the composition is distributed along the screed using special dosing trolleys. After the mixture has darkened, grouting is carried out so that the topping can penetrate into the surface.

Without interruption, add the remainder and then proceed in the same way. Finishing treatment is carried out only after the concrete has become sufficiently strong.. This can be easily checked by standing on the screed - the footprint of the shoe should not fall more than 1 mm.

After hardening, a finishing coating can be applied, such as epoxy or polyurethane varnishes or paint and varnish compositions polymer based.

How to avoid basic mistakes

The most common defects in screeds occur due to improper preparation of the working solution. So, Lime should not be added to the recipe. Although it will increase the plasticity of the mixture, it will significantly deteriorate the strength finished design. It is unacceptable to use too liquid solution. Due to the excess water content, the system will take several months to dry. You can expect less strength, more shrinkage and cracking.

You should not skimp on leveling and use cement-lime mortar that remains after plastering the walls. This layer will quickly fall off along with the finishing floor covering.

Due to lack of moisture upper layer will harden too quickly and the structure will not receive the required strength, so the floor should be moistened

You cannot neglect care activities.

Materials, equipment and tools for installing concrete floors

To ensure continuity of the technological process, the entire set of materials and equipment must be available on the construction site.

To install a concrete screed you will need the following materials:

• cement– brand strength must correspond to M400-M500;
• sand- only high quality is used quarry material. If required, it is sifted through a sieve. Application river sand, which has not undergone special processing is unacceptable. This type has smooth grains of sand, which negatively affects the strength characteristics. This type is best used for filling a sand cushion over the ground;
• crushed stone or gravel- a classic component of a concrete mixture. The size of the fraction is chosen based on the thickness of the screed;
• expanded clay– used in cases where it is necessary to provide additional thermal insulation. Instead of expanded clay, you can use slabs of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. All materials are suitable for constructing structures on ready-made concrete slabs or soil;
• fiber fiber– for additional reinforcement;
• steel reinforcing mesh with a cell size corresponding to the design loads and a rod diameter of 6-8 mm + binding wire. Instead of steel, you can use fiberglass or a simple reinforcing rod;
• galvanized metallic profile – it is convenient to use a U-shaped profile as guides, working in plasterboard systems. In some cases, beacon installations are carried out using a plaster T-shaped profile, but this is less convenient;
• plastic film– acts as a waterproofing layer and serves as a covering material for maintaining a freshly laid screed;
• leveling compounds– can be used for final leveling of the coating.

Equipment set:

• concrete mixer or powerful construction mixer– used for preparing working solutions;
• pneumatic blowers, mortar pumps - required for mechanical filling of semi-dry screed;
• vibrating screeds - serve to compact the laid mortar;
• a level, usually a ruler, is a tool for measuring, marking, checking evenness;
• clean containers, smoothers, shovels, spatulas, trowels;
• tamping machines - used to compact intermediate layers in multi-layer screeds;
• jackhammers and hammer drills are used to dismantle old structures.

Safety precautions

Maintaining concrete works requires compliance with general construction requirements and safety standards. Only adults who have undergone training, instruction, medical examination and have the skills to carry out work safely are allowed to use the technology. Cement and other building materials can cause irritation to the skin and mucous membranes in case of prolonged contact, which requires the use of special clothing and personal protective equipment. All electrical equipment located on the site must be checked for serviceability and grounded.

Cost of work

The price of work on installing concrete floors depends on the technology used, the type of existing foundation, and the scope of work.

On average, we can talk about the following prices:

• removal of old concrete screed – from 220 RUR/m2;
• preparation and dust removal of the base - from 105 rubles/m2;
• foundation repair – from 140 RUR/m2;
• reinforcement – ​​from 175 RUR/m2;
• pouring screed up to 30 mm – 450 RUR/m2;
• pouring screed from 50 mm – from 550 RUR/m2;
• installation of a self-filling layer - from 315 RUR/m2.

Prices for installing concrete floors are subject to seasonal and climatic conditions

conclusions

The technology for installing concrete floors is an effective solution, most in demand in modern construction. Laying on concrete floor slabs or on the ground helps create a durable surface with a long service life. However, to obtain a high-quality result, you should not skimp on materials and a professional approach to the work.

The construction of a concrete industrial floor is shown in all technological details in the video:

Owners of apartments located on the first floors high-rise buildings, as well as private houses, are faced with a problem that brings them significant inconvenience. This is a low surface temperature of floors, which negatively affects their durability and creates discomfort for the occupants of the premises. To eliminate the problem during construction, reconstruction or repair, floor insulation is performed. The modern market offers various types of thermal insulation materials. The methods of high-quality insulation of concrete and wooden floors.

Attention, cold floor!

Some overly thrifty owners do not attach due importance to the problem of low floor temperature in the apartment. Wanting to save on the cost of materials and work, they arbitrarily exclude laying the insulating layer from the technological process. The consequences of such an imprudent decision are felt during the cold season:

• the floor covering becomes covered with condensation;
• pathogenic organisms - mold and mildew - develop in a humid environment;
• the microclimate of the room is disrupted - humidity rises, temperature drops;
• heating costs increase;
• The service life of the floors is reduced.

To make living indoors comfortable and safe, you should adhere to the work technologies developed by the builders. Only a properly built and well equipped house with warm floors- a real fortress. Modern materials make it possible to solve this problem quickly and without loss of quality.

7 main types of insulation materials

So that a comfortable microclimate is maintained in the house or apartment on the ground floor at the most cold winter, it is worth choosing the best material for floor insulation. It must be remembered that even ideal insulation in unsuitable conditions does not perform the required functions. To choose a thermal insulation material that meets specific requirements, before purchasing you should familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of its different types.

1. Basalt or mineral wool. The budget option, due to its low price, is extremely popular when building private houses and installing thermal insulation with your own hands. Attractive due to ease of installation, low thermal conductivity, good sound-absorbing properties. High porosity promotes good vapor exchange necessary to create comfortable conditions accommodation. It does not work well at high humidity; once saturated with water, it loses its thermal insulation properties. When installing, be sure to use protective equipment. The ingress of tiny glass particles onto open areas body and mucous membranes causes prolonged itching and redness.
2. Styrofoam. Another inexpensive and popular insulation, characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties and low weight. In the absence of point mechanical loads and exposure to aggressive chemicals on the surface, it is durable and reliable. It is not exposed to direct sunlight and releases harmful substances when burned. If there are rodents in the house, there is a high probability of complete destruction of the foam layer, even if protected by a screed.
3. Extruded polystyrene- improved foam. The developers have retained the useful properties of the old material in the new material and enriched it with additional advantages, in particular, quite high strength compared to foam plastic. Fire retardants included in polystyrene provide low flammability. The material works well even in an aggressive chemical environment, and does not pose a danger to human health. All its components are absolutely harmless.
4. Polyurethane foam. Extremely convenient way applying insulation has gained him enormous popularity. You just need to spray the polyurethane foam evenly over the surface from a special gun - and you can start screeding. Pros - low thermal conductivity and water permeability, long service life. The most advertised property is high adhesion to any surfaces, which is quite controversial. The material adheres really well to porous concrete, but does not adhere at all to polyethylene or galvanized metal.
5. Expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite. These natural materials (clay, volcanic rocks, hydromica) processed in a special way are environmentally friendly and safe. However, they are characterized by high water absorption, and thermal insulation properties significantly inferior to artificial insulation. To ensure the same mineral wool thermal conductivity will require a 3 times larger layer of expanded clay. Accordingly, high weight increases the load on the base. Therefore, the material is more often used to insulate a concrete floor, which is installed on an earthen or sandy underlying layer; you can read more about it.
6. Foam glass. Represents ordinary glass, foamed at the factory and formed into blocks. Excellent insulation, environmentally friendly and harmless. Not afraid of rodents, moisture, resistant to temperature changes and acids. Does not form pathogenic microorganisms and is completely non-flammable. Disadvantages: high cost, destroyed by pinpoint impacts, melts when exposed to alkalis.
7. Cork. Crushed cork oak bark, pressed into slabs, is an ideal insulation material, the only drawback of which is its high price. Otherwise, the material has a lot of useful properties: low thermal conductivity, high strength, environmental friendliness, non-flammability, biological stability, low weight, good dielectric properties. Insulating a concrete floor with cork is an excellent way to do the job yourself, accessible even to an amateur.

Installation of warm concrete floors

To insulate a concrete floor during repair or construction, you will first need to prepare quality foundation, leveled and protected with waterproofing. The old concrete slab is repaired and all uneven areas are filled with thin concrete. The entire surface of the base is covered with waterproofing material. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the butt joints, they are taped. Insulation selected according to the operating conditions and material capabilities of the apartment owner is laid on top of the waterproofing.

If you choose to insulate a concrete floor extruded polystyrene boards, they are placed apart. Other materials are laid close to each other, the joints are taped to avoid the formation of cold bridges. A layer of waterproofing is again laid on the insulation, and the resulting cake is protected from deformation by a reinforcing mesh. The next step is the installation of a rough screed. The insulation is poured with a concrete mixture, compacted, leveled and left to gain strength for 28 days.

Laying heated floor cable mats under the screed

Another option for insulating a concrete floor is laying cable mats on a moisture-protected base. The technology for installing electric heated floors involves making a screed about 3 cm thick. It is not recommended to lay cable mats in places where heavy furniture or plumbing equipment is installed. Floor coverings are laid on the finished screed - linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc. In rooms with high humidity, ceramic tiles are laid.

Insulation of concrete screed under wooden covering

If the project provides wood covering on logs fixed to a monolithic base, it is necessary to perform thermal and waterproofing of the screed. The method for insulating a concrete floor with joists is not very complicated and can be done with your own hands. The leveled base is divided into separate sections, the width of which is equal to the width of the insulation. Wooden blocks - logs - are used as a separator. They are fixed to the concrete surface with self-tapping screws.

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