DIY bathhouse projects made from foam blocks. Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks - we build a structure from new generation miracle bricks

Wood is an expensive material, although it is environmentally friendly and practical. You can reduce the cost of construction and make it more fire-resistant using: bricks, foam blocks, gas silicate blocks or other similar material. One of the cheapest materials is foam blocks. A bathhouse made from foam blocks with your own hands can delight the owners, but only if correct installation and finishing. We’ll talk about how to properly install a bathhouse using foam blocks in this article.

The wall of the bathhouse is assembled from foam blocks quickly and has no seams.

The foam block resembles a cement brick, but it has gas bubbles inside.

Foam block is the new kind brick, which is made of foamed concrete. According to its characteristics, the material is distinguished by: good thermal insulation, ease of installation, fire-resistant and durable. Foam blocks are made from a mixture quartz sand and Portland cement and special gas. It is this that forms air bubbles in the material when mixed. Therefore, we can talk about its environmental friendliness, but without taking into account gas additives.

Due to the bubbles, the weight of the material is small, so the laying can be done with your own hands without the use of additional forces and equipment. And the bubbles that form small air cavities provide additional thermal insulation to the walls.

But the material has disadvantages that manufacturers are silent about: it is destroyed under the influence of water. The texture of foam blocks is porous and water easily penetrates into the material. As a consequence, the loss of all quality characteristics. Therefore, before building a bathhouse made of foam blocks, you need to weigh the pros and cons, think about how the structure will be insulated and how to properly waterproof the walls.

It’s too early to talk about the durability of foam blocks; baths made from it need to last at least 50 years, and the material is one of the new ones. So far, the statement about durability is just an advertising ploy by manufacturers.

Bathhouse installation: foundation and walls

You can often read on construction sites that the foundation can be laid out of foam blocks. This is unacceptable, since the material is afraid of moisture and the base will quickly collapse. There is no need to build a solid foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks, since all small structures can be made with a lightweight strip foundation.

Strip foundation for foam block construction

Strip foundation for a bathhouse made of foam blocks

The foundation is carried out according to the following rules:

Ribbon trenches are dug along the perimeter of the bathhouse. The depth should be 60 cm, and the width for foam blocks is 30 cm.
The bottom is covered with a sand cushion of 10-20 cm.
Along the entire trench, pins are inserted in increments of 190 mm (possibly from timber). The height should be the same; use a level.
Formwork (using boards) and reinforcement are carried out. For piping, 12 mm reinforcement is used.
The exit for the sewerage and drainage system is marked. The structure is filled with concrete.
A receiver and drain are installed under the washing compartment.
The screed is made using reinforced mesh and concrete.

The strip foundation for foam blocks must be waterproofed with roofing felt.

After the foundation has completely dried, it must be waterproofed. This work must be done responsibly, since the porous material will absorb water from the foundation. The foundation must be treated with coating-type waterproofing, and roofing material should be laid on top in 2-3 layers.

Installation of a foam block box

The density and concrete used for making foam blocks are different. The smaller the gas bubbles, the denser the material. To build a bathhouse from foam blocks, material with a density of D700 is taken from waterproof cement M25. You can assemble the walls of a small structure in 2 weeks, working alone.

The blocks need to be laid in a checkerboard pattern, placing them on edge. Each element is checked with a level during construction.

To lay foam blocks for a bath, use a special adhesive composition.

It is important to lay out the first row as evenly as possible. All further work will depend on its accuracy. Mount the blocks of the first row on cement-sand mixture. The cement used is waterproof. The accuracy of installation is checked with a level and a cord, which is convenient to pull between the corners of the wall. Alignment is carried out by tapping each block with a rubber hammer on the required side.

Starting from the second row, waterproof glue must be used to build the walls of the bathhouse. You can buy it at any hardware store from 300 rubles. Divorced as cement mortar with a mixer or concrete mixer in 3–5 minutes. The ratio of water and mixture is different for each brand of glue, the amount is indicated on the package. The glue consumption is small, the layer thickness is no more than 50 mm. It is necessary to use glue when building a bathhouse from foam blocks for several reasons:

The maturation of the cement mortar takes time; the adhesive composition sets quickly.
The strength of the wall is 2–3 times higher.
There are no seams that act as cold bridges, which is unacceptable when building a bathhouse.
Dilute and make high-quality composition you can do it without any skills.

The stacking of blocks is strengthened every three rows reinforced mesh. In window areas doorways It’s easier to use ready-made elements. In order to save money, you can make formwork in these places and fill it with cement. The entire laying process is constantly controlled by a level and a cord, which is pulled before laying each row.

The masonry is completed according to the project. The project must indicate the exact height of the wall and the number of blocks in height.

Subtleties of installing a bath roof

The roof is installed with your own hands, using boards with a section of 100x400 mm.

The roof for a bathhouse made of foam blocks is chosen to be of the simplest design - gable. But for the material described, installation has its own characteristics.

The Mauerlat for the structure is taken with a cross-section of at least 180 mm. Lay it on the longitudinal walls, securing it with anchor bolts. The rafter structure itself is easier to assemble on the ground. To do this, lay out the timber in pairs at a certain angle and connect it with nails or self-tapping screws. The resulting corners are connected with a ridge made of timber. The base is reinforced with timber. The step between finished trusses should be no more than 1 m.

Raise finished design You won’t be able to climb the Mauerlat alone, so you need to get help. The rafter system is attached to the Mauerlat with metal brackets. The trusses are additionally reinforced with crossbars.

The rafter system is fastened with ready-made parts

It is important to consider the location chimney. Its base should not be less than 40 cm from the nearest truss. A fire-resistant gasket is made of metal sheets or asbestos near the base of the pipe.

Between the rafters a rough ceiling is made from 100x250 mm boards. A sheathing made of boards is attached to the rafters on top. The sheathing pitch depends on the material chosen as the roof. You can read more about the design and insulation of the roof here.

Vapor barrier and wall insulation

Vapor barrier of walls must be considered at the construction planning stage. For a steam room, it is better to use a vapor-proof membrane fabric. Membrane vapor barrier costs from 1200 rubles. It must be laid on the walls using lathing for finishing. The joints are taped with special tape. The facing material itself in the steam room must be matted with a ventilated gap of at least 4 cm.

Insulation and vapor barrier of walls is done in cash.

Insulation is carried out from the outside of the structure. To do this, a lathing is made of timber or metal profiles, laying insulation between them. You can use any non-flammable material: mineral wool, ecowool. It is unacceptable to use polystyrene foam for insulation. Fastening elements for foam blocks are used: dowels, moths, nails, screws. It is easier to use dowels with special mushroom caps.

Wiring unlike wooden baths can be hidden inside the structure. To do this, it is laid up to the vapor barrier in a special protective corrugation, or by finishing the walls and hiding the wiring inside. Doors and windows are installed as in any structure.

Interior and exterior finishing

Siding will decorate a bathhouse made of foam blocks and give it an aesthetic appearance.

A bathhouse made of foam blocks must be finished inside and out. Make finishing easier with your own hands.

Exterior finishing can be made of any material: siding, imitation timber, decorative or a natural stone, ceramic tiles, plaster.

A ventilated facade made of metal or vinyl siding would be optimal. It does not burn and it will be easier to perform insulation. A ventilated gap will allow excess moisture to escape and the walls will last longer.

The ventilated facade is carried out in the following steps:

Waterproofing material.
Lathing made of timber or metal.
Insulation.
Vapor barrier.
Counter lathing.
Lined material.

The interior decoration in the steam room is made of linden or aspen lining; the remaining rooms can be finished with ceramic tiles. Do not under any circumstances use polymer varnishes and concrete paints for finishing, as some “experts” recommend on other sites.

It’s not difficult to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands, the main thing is to follow all the rules and treat the work responsibly. Time will tell how long such a bathhouse will last.

Foam block is a porous building material made from a mixture of cement, sand and water. The production technology of the material is such that ready-made blocks have a heterogeneous structure. Thanks to this structure, the blocks have a relatively low weight even with large dimensions, which makes construction activities as simple and fast as possible.

To cut the foam block, you can use an ordinary hacksaw. There are also no difficulties with installing fasteners. These and many other advantages have made foam block a very popular building material. You can even build a full-fledged bathhouse from it!

Independent construction of a steam room from the material in question is an extremely responsible undertaking that requires the performer to have the appropriate knowledge. Having understood the main points and additional nuances of such construction, you will be able to cope with the construction of your own bathhouse yourself, significantly saving on materials (foam block is much cheaper than the same wood) and the services of third-party craftsmen.

The mother in question has a number of strengths and some weaknesses.

Advantages

Light weight.
Ease of use.
No shrinkage.
The shortest construction time.
High fire-fighting properties.
Ease of transportation and storage.
Relatively low cost.

With all their advantages, foam blocks are like any other existing material, have some disadvantages.

Flaws

However, even with these disadvantages, this material is very popular. A sauna made from building blocks is very profitable solution, especially in the absence of a serious budget and the inability to attract special equipment and third-party labor to carry out construction.

The main thing is to do everything according to the instructions, and ready sauna made from foam blocks will in no way be inferior to buildings made from other common materials.

Site preparation

Any flat area is suitable for building a bathhouse. It is desirable that the soil is dense.

As a rule, foam concrete baths are built on strip foundations. Dig a hole around the perimeter of the future foundation with a depth of 50-100 cm (depending on the characteristics of the soil on the site) and a width of about 30 cm.

Drive metal rods into the corners and along the perimeter of the trench (in increments of about 100 cm) and stretch a rope between them. This markup will make it easier for you to navigate when performing further work. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the prepared structure.

Bathhouse foundation

Start laying out the foundation. At the stage of building the foundation, arrange a sewer system. To do this, it is enough to make a channel with a slight slope towards a pit or other waste collection area located outside the steam room building. Later, when laying the floor, you will leave a hole through which sewer pipes water will be drained.

Video - Sewerage in the bathhouse

Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and gravel mixture and compact the backfill.

Place a reinforcing mesh of 12-14 mm bars on the pillow. Perform horizontal tying using steel wire.

Install the formwork. To make the structure, use boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more.

Pour the concrete. Pour evenly in a horizontal layer(s). After pouring, treat the concrete with a special vibration device or pierce it in several places with a reinforcing rod to remove excess air.

Periodically pour water over the foundation. It is advisable to leave the formwork until the foundation is completely dry (3-5 weeks). After removing the formwork, fill the voids with mortar.

On ready foundation lay waterproofing material. Traditionally, waterproofing is performed using roofing felt.

Construction of walls

Unprepared developers often think that building a bathhouse from foam blocks will take them a lot of time and effort. In reality, everything is much simpler. Masonry of foam blocks is done in the same way brickwork, A big size blocks does execution of this event as convenient as possible.

Armed with a building level, find the highest corner of the foundation. This is where you will begin the masonry work.

Lay out the walls for the first time. M25 foam blocks are optimally suited for the construction of steam room walls. To fasten the elements, use ordinary cement-sand mortar. Place the blocks on edge. Try to keep the seams between separate elements had the smallest thickness.

Align the first row of building blocks strictly level. A rubber hammer will help you with this. Be as careful as possible at this stage, since the basic operational properties of the finished structure directly depend on the correct installation of the starting row.

Proceed with laying the second row. Lay it out with a shift. To fasten the elements, use not a solution of sand and cement, but a special glue designed for the installation of specifically porous materials. Apply glue in a 0.5 cm layer. You don’t have to wait for it to dry - it doesn’t matter.

Lay out the walls to the required height. After every third row, be sure to lay a fine-mesh metal mesh for additional reinforcement.

When laying out the walls, leave openings for future doors and double-glazed windows. At this point, be guided by your personal preferences.

After laying the walls, if possible, leave them for 3-4 days, and then proceed to arranging the roof structure.

Erection of the roof

For a steam room made of foam blocks, an ordinary roof of two slopes with a ridge in the center is well suited.

When choosing a length rafter legs, which will be joined in the ridge using an ordinary tongue-and-groove connection, be guided by the width of the bathhouse, the desired slope of the slopes, as well as the climatic features of the area. For example, for regions with a damp climate, roofs with a slope of about 50-60 degrees are better suited. The recommended overlap of the roof overhang on the walls is about 50 cm.

Use staples to tie the rafters together. Fix the beams themselves at a distance of about 1-1.2 m. It is important to choose the right raw materials for the arrangement rafter system. Make sure that the material is of high quality, without knots or any kind of defects.

After installing all the rafter legs, proceed to arranging the sheathing. Make it from high-quality smooth boards. The lathing can be made continuous or sparse. Choose a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the final roofing covering.

The sheathing for roofing felt should be double; for slate, a single lathing is suitable. If the roof will be covered with tiles, make the sheathing from beams. Bars with a cross section of 5x5 or 6x6 cm are suitable.

The roof must be insulated with moisture-proof material, insulation and vapor barrier.

Finally, lay the selected finishing material. At this point, focus on your personal preferences and available budget.

Bath decoration

It is very important to do everything correctly necessary work externally and interior design steam room made of foam blocks. The right finish will provide reliable protection designs from adverse external influences and will contribute to a significant improvement in the operational properties of the structure.

Insulation layers

Saturate the blocks with a moisture-repellent agent and cover them with waterproofing film.

Insulate the bathhouse. A properly designed thermal insulation layer will allow you to retain more heat in the bathhouse and save on heating costs.

Thermal insulation is carried out in several stages. First, the foundation and underground are insulated. Mineral wool is well suited for insulating the foundation. It is most convenient to make thermal insulation of the subfloor using backfill, from expanded clay and slag.

Be sure to install a ventilation hole at the base of the bathhouse, which will prevent the possibility of liquid accumulation. In the future, the floor of the steam room will need to be arranged with a slight slope towards this hole.

Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier material and proceed to finishing.

When arranging lighting, be guided by personal preferences. The main thing is that all electrical appliances have the appropriate protection class and can normally withstand the conditions typical of a bathhouse.

Don't forget to arrange ventilation system. You can use the standard scheme. It is enough to make an inlet hole at the bottom of the wall and arrange exhaust duct under the ceiling on the opposite wall.

Interior decoration

It is best to use ceramic tiles for finishing the floor - they will not rot in a few years, unlike wooden flooring. To lay tiles, it is enough to first level the floor using a screed.

If you want to arrange wooden floor, pre-install logs from 15x5 cm timber. Lay the floor from boards 4 cm thick.

At the same stage, decide on the best option for the furnace unit. You can install either a regular stove or a model with a water tank. Metal stoves are installed directly on the floor. Brick heating units require preliminary arrangement of the foundation.

Exterior finishing

It is recommended to equip the external decoration of a bathhouse made of foam blocks using hinged ventilated facades. This finish will help remove excess moisture and provide reliable protection for the walls of the steam room from adverse external influences.

At this point the bathhouse is almost ready. In conclusion, all you have to do is install windows and double-glazed windows, and also think over internal filling– install benches, shelves, a stove, and, if desired and have the opportunity, arrange a swimming pool, equip additional rooms etc.

Video - Sauna stoves

Foam block is an inexpensive and extremely easy to use building material with excellent performance properties, perfect for construction various designs, including private steam rooms. To successfully complete all activities, you simply need to follow the instructions and take each stage responsibly.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks

A do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks involves phased construction. First you need to decide on the type of bath. There are three common types:

Washing bath. It is constructed for utilitarian purposes for washing. It consists of two compartments: a small dressing room for clothes with a stove firebox, a steam room and a shower room combined. The dimensions are small - 2 x 3 m on average. If you really want to, you can take a steam bath. A widespread type of bathhouse throughout the country.
Bathhouse with steam room. Built by connoisseurs to take a steam bath with a broom. Sizes start from 16 square meters(4 x 4 m). A full-fledged bathhouse with several rooms: a dressing room, a shower and a steam room.
Bath complex on one or two floors. Building with its own. Year-round communications – hot and cold water. In addition to the steam room and shower, a relaxation room, a bathroom, and a sauna with dry and hot air are being built. A separate vestibule with a furnace firebox and a veranda are arranged.

Any type of bathhouse can be easily erected from foam blocks. The project depends on the budget and availability of space for construction. The best option for placing a bathhouse is an extension to the main residence. In this case, hot and cold water are supplied.

Model bathhouse – with separate steam room. Then you won't have to wash in the scalding air. A dressing room with a place to relax will improve your emotional mood. A separate vestibule is built for the stove, where firewood and brooms are stored. The rooms will always remain clean - wood chips and smoke will not bother anyone. The built summer veranda and barbecue will replace a separate gazebo.

we determine the location of construction;
We prepare a detailed construction project;
We calculate the required amount of building materials;
carefully select foam blocks and cement;
prepare tools and equipment;
pour the foundation;
we install a drain;
We waterproof the basement and interior spaces;
we build walls;
we build a roof;
We complete the interior and exterior decoration.

After we made the drawings, counted the blocks and found appropriate place- let's get to work. It will take 2-3 weeks to pour the foundation, taking into account the complete hardening of the cement. Construction will take the same amount of time. In total, it will take a month and a half to erect the building with your own hands.

Calculation and selection of materials

Gas silicate blocks are not suitable for the construction of structures with high humidity due to open pores in its structure. Gas silicate bricks are suitable for and houses. Foam concrete, which has the same density and weight, has closed pores in the form of air bubbles. Hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) of the material is at the level of 15% (brick - up to 5%, concrete - 4.6%, aerated concrete - 35-40%, wood - up to 30%, but moisture loss is very fast). Bricks with this indicator are suitable for the construction of excessively moistened structures.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam concrete

Some people will be wary of the choice of foam concrete blocks. Let's consider the positive and negative qualities material.

Foam blocks, in addition to being hygroscopic, have other advantages:

excellent thermal insulation properties, comparable to a tree;
price building material relatively small, construction will cost half as much as a similar building made of wood;
foam blocks do not shrink;
foam concrete is a non-flammable material;
does not rot, environmentally friendly filler;
the constructed premises are used immediately after finishing;
large block sizes guarantee quick construction and low glue consumption;
one person can build a building;
low weight of the structure;
soundproof due to the cellular structure;
ease of storage and transportation;
sufficient strength of foam concrete allows you to build load-bearing walls for buildings up to three floors.

Flaws:

high strength, increasing with increasing density. This has the opposite effect - the thermal insulation properties decrease;
special fasteners for cellular structures are required - anchors, dowels;
poor quality of products from small manufacturers who do not properly maintain manufacturing technology;
construction is carried out before frost. The glue used loses its properties in the cold;
The hygroscopicity of foam blocks is quite high, so additional internal and external insulation is required.

Important! Use interior spaces only after finishing. The stove heats the walls to a red-hot state - it is easy to get a severe burn.

The construction of structures made of foam concrete is advisable when there is a lack of funds and time. Brick or concrete bath, depending on the readiness of the base, take more than one year to build.

Calculation of material requirements

For the construction of load-bearing walls, a standard M25 block with the following dimensions is used: width 200 mm, height 300 mm, length 600 mm. Density – D700, allowing the construction of strong load-bearing walls. For internal partitions, blocks with a width of 100 mm and a lower density are used.

The required number of blocks per building is calculated by the formula: ((wall length / foam block length 60 cm) * (wall height / block height 30 cm) * 2 + (wall width / foam block length) * (wall height / block height) * 2) – 7 blocks per door ((height 210 cm / block height 30 cm) * 1 (opening width 60 cm / block length 60 cm)) – 2 blocks per window (60 cm by 60 cm) * number of windows.

For internal partitions, doors and openings, the calculation is carried out in a similar way. As a result, the blocks are added and we get the required number.

Selecting blocks before purchasing

Before purchasing foam concrete blocks, it is necessary to carry out visual inspection. The surface should be smooth, without flaws. We use little tricks:

you can try to break off a piece from the corner of the brick - a high-quality foam block should not break;
The nail should not penetrate into the surface of the product by hand.

If you manage to break off a piece from a block or stick a nail into it with a density of D700, this is a low-quality product. However, partition bricks with a density of D300 are destroyed by hand.

foam blocks should be stored in a dry place, well packaged;
it is advisable to buy products large manufacturers with a quality certificate;
the price of products should not be lower than the market price;
After production, a fresh block “ripens” for about a month;
in the section of the block, the cells have same size, small and isolated from each other;
color – uniform, gray;
foam blocks have the same size and weight.

Other materials

Other building materials will be needed for construction.

For the foundation:

sand;
gravel;
cement;
plumbing pipes for drainage;
frame reinforcement;
boards for formwork.

Walling:

roofing felt for cutting;
cement for the first row;
reinforcement for strengthening masonry;
glue for connecting blocks.

Roof installation:

beams, anchors or studs, roofing felt for installing a Mauerlat;
thick board for rafters;
thin board for sheathing;
boards for roof cladding and ceiling construction;
insulating material;
insulation;
corrugated sheet (metal tile);
ridge on the roof;
metal corners for fastening;
self-tapping screws for metal and wood.

Interior finishing:

a finished stove for a steam room or sheet metal for manufacturing;
floor board;
board for shelves;
ceramic tiles (non-slippery) for finishing the shower;
cement;
ready-made mixtures for finishing;
mineral insulation, vapor barrier material, aluminum tape;
lining and cranial beam for fastening;
nails;
stones for the stove.

Exterior finish:

putty mixtures;
polystyrene foam or insulation;
special insulation fasteners;
cranial beam or metal profile;
decorative panels.

Will need polyethylene film from precipitation during construction. It is used to insulate the foundation, and subsequently the entire building, until the roof is erected.

Equipment and tools

To build a bathhouse with your own hands from foam blocks, you need equipment and tools.

Tools:

shovels – bayonet, scoop and mortar;
hammer-pick;
rubber mallet or mallet;
plumb line;
building level;
rule;
jointing;
trowel or trowel;
mooring cord;
spatulas;
notched spatula;
hacksaw;
roulette;
hammer.

Equipment:

concrete mixer;
container for diluting glue, cement and water;
drill with whisk attachment;
perforator;
screwdriver;
wall chaser;
deep vibrator for removing air from the solution;
stapler;

The project has been drawn, building materials and tools have been prepared, we move on to building a bathhouse.

Construction of the foundation for the building

The selected site for construction is thoroughly cleaned of debris and all organic components: grass, leaves, branches, roots. The site is leveled. After pouring the foundation, it is removed fertile soil inside future premises.

Selecting and pouring the foundation

The choice of the type of foundation for the construction of a bathhouse is a key condition for the strength of the future building. A foundation defect will destroy the building within a few years. The base should not crack, warp or crumble. Close occurrence of groundwater, a strong slope of the site or loose soil will require the creation of a grillage or monolithic foundation. In the presence of ordinary dense soil, you can get by strip foundation, not very deep. Deep digging will be required for looser soil. The foundation must be buried below the freezing point of the soil in the presence of sandy and clayey soils. In winter, the areas around buildings are not cleared of snow - snow cover reduces the depth of freezing.

Ready foundation foam blocks are laid using a crane or other special equipment, then the speed of construction will increase by an order of magnitude. Such installation is possible if there are access roads to the site.

The width of the bathhouse foundation is selected taking into account the width building block– it should be a little wider. In our case - 300 mm. The depth should be at least 80 cm, taking into account the laying of a sand and gravel cushion. A trench is dug 50 cm wide to install formwork and spacers. The foundation rises 15-20 cm above the level of the site. The resulting height - 80 cm of concrete - is sufficient for a lightweight building made of foam concrete.

The construction of the basement is divided into stages:

For the trench we make markings using cast-offs. Nails are driven into a board 60 cm wide at a distance of 50 cm. The board is attached to a post, which is driven into the ground beyond the intended foundation. We make at least 8 such cast-offs. A cord is pulled between them on the nails. This results in a clearly marked outline of the foundation. Instead of a board, simple metal pins are used. If necessary, the cord can be removed.
We dig a trench. Large lumps are removed entirely. The stones will be useful for constructing a stove.
We fill the bottom of the trench with sand or a sand-gravel mixture 20–30 cm thick. Wet sand will do. The mixture is compacted tightly and watered.
We make formwork from boards or plywood. Thickness and strength are adjustable using spacers.
We knit a frame for concrete reinforcement from reinforcement with a thickness of 12 mm. The frame mesh is at least 15 cm.
Fill the trench with ready-made concrete (grade M200, M250). Concrete is made from a sand-gravel mixture and cement in the ratio: sand 3 parts, gravel 5 parts, cement 1 part. The filling process is continuous. Breaks of up to 3 hours are allowed.
Air is removed from the concrete using a vibrator or a regular pin.
The finished foundation is covered with a film to protect it from sunlight and precipitation. Every 2 - 3 hours the concrete is moistened. We remove the formwork on the 3rd day.

There are no ventilation holes. If the foundation is very deep, it is necessary to equip a hole for the sewer pipe.

Important! During the work process, you need to periodically check with a building level how level the foundation is.

Sewerage installation and base waterproofing

Work resumes after the formwork is removed. We remove the fertile soil layer and install a sewer drain with a wastewater receiver - plastic or metal pipe. The pipe must have a slope for natural drainage of water. We fill the base of the bathhouse with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, and on top - a layer of gravel or expanded clay 15 cm thick. We thoroughly compact the soil. Then we lay a metal grid for reinforcement. We make the screed: fill the prepared surface with concrete 15 cm thick.

Outside the foundation, a similar waterproofing pad at least half a meter wide is made and a cement blind area is laid. We make a monolithic base for the stove.

Construction of walls - masonry technology

The foundation will be ready in three weeks, after which we will continue work. We arrange a cut-off - waterproofing the walls from the base. To do this, we use two layers of roofing felt or bikrost along the width of the foundation. Using a level, we check the foundation for slope. If necessary, level it. Only after this we proceed to the construction of walls from foam concrete blocks.

Laying walls is the fastest and easiest construction process. The first layer of foam blocks, from the corner, must be laid on cement, the remaining blocks are held together with special glue. The adhesive layer is allowed no thicker than 0.5 cm. This layer firmly glues the blocks together and prevents the formation of “cold bridges.” The glue is mixed in a container with a drill with an attachment from the finished mixture.

The blocks are leveled using a level and plumb line. Correction of unevenness is carried out with a rubber hammer. Uneven blocks are ground with a float or sawed off with a hacksaw. Foam concrete is cut into pieces in any proportion with a saw.

The laying of each subsequent layer is carried out with the blocks shifted by half from the underlying one. Using a wall chaser, grooves are made in the masonry layers into which the reinforcement is placed. Every third layer is reinforced, more often if possible. Vertical reinforcement is used - concrete is poured into a drilled hole made of two blocks and reinforcement is pressed.

Openings for doors and windows must be left during construction. The blocks above the openings are placed on a board or sheet of metal.

Roof installation

The constructed walls are kept for a couple of days until completely dry, after which the ceiling is installed and the roof is erected. The building is completely covered with a film from precipitation.

Types of floors

Monolithic ceiling. Formwork is mounted on vertical supports, a mesh for reinforcement is laid and concrete is poured. The result is a strong, durable and fireproof floor.
Floors made of hollow slabs and beams. For the ceiling, ready-made blocks are installed by crane. The result is a type of monolithic ceiling.
Prefabricated ceiling. The ceiling is mounted from wooden or metal beams. A board or plywood is attached to the bottom, and insulation is laid on top. The fastest and most cost-effective way to erect a ceiling above your head. The ceiling is made both before and after the construction of the roof.

Making a roof

We begin the construction of the roof by insulating the wall with roofing felt around the perimeter. We make a mauerlat from timber for the top of the wall. We lay the timber on the wall without breaks. We fasten the tree with special studs or threaded anchors. At large area buildings and thick walls for laying the Mauerlat is mounted reinforced belt made of concrete. The wood is coated with impregnation to prevent rotting and fire. The final coating is applied with bitumen or polymer liquids. The wood is dried before use. As the raw timber dries on the roof, it is tightened with a stud nut.

The roof is mounted gable. The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on the humidity of the climate - the more precipitation, the sharper the angle. The best option is a tilt angle of 60 degrees. The overhang of the roof (roof overlap) relative to the walls must be at least 50 cm. The resulting rough ceiling is insulated and covered with boards. Ebb tides are mounted on it.

To install ready-made rafters assembled on the ground, you will need an assistant. For convenience, one worker installs the racks and cross beam into a groove made of thick boards in the center of the ceiling. This option allows you to easily mount rafters of any configuration. The pitch of the rafters is 1 meter. The rafters are attached to the mauerlat with a metal corner using self-tapping screws. We fasten the boards on top with an overlap using self-tapping screws. More a complex system- tenon in groove. Additional fastening of rafters - transverse boards. Then, during strong winds, the roof will remain intact for a long time. The disadvantage of such fasteners is the lack of free passage through the attic, then you will have to look for another place to store brooms.

We fill the finished rafters with a thin sheathing of thin boards. We fasten the corrugated sheet with metal screws. We install a metal ridge on top. The gables of the attic are covered with boards. Used for beauty plastic panels. We install a door, window and ventilation holes on the gables.

Interior and exterior finishing

We begin finishing and arrangement with the steam room as the main goal of our construction. The work is carried out in stages:

furnace installation;
installation of windows and doors;
waterproofing of premises;
façade waterproofing;
finishing.

We install a metal stove - a heater - on a monolithic base. On the heater we provide space for stones to generate steam and heat water in the bathing container. The stove in the firebox area is lined with bricks to avoid contact with foam blocks. We paint the stove with non-flammable paint. The chimney is covered with a cap.

Important! The chimney must pass through a metal sheet. Contact with wood and insulation is excluded to avoid fire.

Installation of doors and windows

The door and hatch to the steam room are made of wood. We provide wide edges on the loot to retain heat and steam. The remaining doors and windows are made of any material, preferably plastic.

Decorating the walls and floors of the steam room

At the last stage of work, the most important thing is waterproofing the premises. The steam room is covered entirely with wood, preferably hardwood, including the floor. Tiles in a steam room heated to 100 degrees can burn your feet. Laying tiles and adding wooden gratings on top is disrespect for your work.

An additional waterproofing film or roofing felt is laid on the rough cement floor. The floor is pre-treated with bitumen mastic. Only after this the logs are laid and the floor is assembled from the board.

Important! Waterproofing materials must be harmless and withstand high temperatures.

Waterproofing walls and ceilings is carried out in the following sequence:

a beam or board 40 millimeters thick is attached horizontally to the walls;
insulation is laid in the gaps of the sheathing. Mineral wool is compressed before installation. When straightened, it leaves no gaps;
the walls are covered with construction foil. Fastening is done with a stapler;
joints are sealed with aluminum tape;
The lining is secured with nails.

The steam room is ready, the next stage is finishing the remaining rooms.

Finishing the shower and dressing room

The shower room is completely tiled, with the exception of the ceiling. A layer of putty, glue and tiles will serve as a reliable waterproofing coating against moisture. The seams of the floor tiles are sealed with water-repellent putty, otherwise there is a risk of moisture getting into the cracks and destroying the floor, and subsequently the foundation. Ventilation openings must be provided.

Important! Water drainage in the shower room will be better if there is a slight slope in the room. We tilt towards the receiver.

The dressing room is equipped to your liking, just like an ordinary room. Following the general concept - we cover it with clapboard, including coniferous species. We treat the lining with impregnation and antiseptic. Ceramic tiles are perfect for arranging the floor and the furnace firebox area.

Facade waterproofing

The outside walls, if nothing else is planned, must be puttied to prevent precipitation. Next, decorative plaster or siding is applied.

Conclusion

Building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands is an excellent alternative to the costly involvement of construction companies. Construction of the building will not cost much, because foam concrete is one of the the best materials in terms of price and quality ratio. If all the rules are followed, the construction will be of high quality and durable.

2018-04-08

Bathhouse made of foam blocks on a turnkey basis

A foam block bath is an economical alternative wooden log house. Unlike wood gas blocks easy to transport and install. Even one person can handle their installation. Wanting to save time and money, more and more often land owners decide to build a bathhouse from foam blocks with their own hands.

A cross-section of a foam block shows its cellular structure

Foam block is a type of building brick, characterized by its porous structure and low weight. It consists of cement mortar, sand and a foaming agent - a catalyst for foaming the main substances. In the production of foam blocks, casting, cutting and automatic formwork technologies are used.

Depending on the type of future construction, blocks of appropriate dimensions are selected. The most popular are bricks with the following parameters:

20x40x60 cm – for load-bearing external wall;
30x20x60 cm – for internal load-bearing;
10x30x60 cm – for the partition.

Finished bricks differ not only in size, but also in density (D). The heaviness, strength and thermal conductivity of the product depend on it. For construction one-story bathhouse Foam concrete grades D500-D900 are most often used. When constructing buildings of several floors, more durable bricks D 1000-D1200 are required.

Like any building material, foam concrete has its advantages and disadvantages. But correct layout and a competent approach to construction will help avoid most problems. The main advantages of foam blocks include:

resistance to putrefactive processes (unlike wood logs, foam concrete does not rot or rot);
long service life (up to 50 years, where the first 10 years the material goes through the “ripening” stage, increasing its strength);
low thermal conductivity (the porous cells of foam concrete allow you to retain a sufficient amount of air and maintain a comfortable temperature in the room);
high environmental friendliness factor – 2 (for comparison, the factor of wood is 1, sand-lime brick – 10);
high degree of sound insulation (10 cm wide foam concrete brick completely absorbs street sounds);
relatively low price;
ease of installation.

The disadvantages of the material include a tendency to crack and instability to sudden temperature changes.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam block baths

The process of constructing a bathhouse from foam concrete blocks

Baths from log house, foam blocks and bricks have a number of differences. The balance of advantages and disadvantages influences the final choice of building material. For example, foam concrete structures are erected in cases where deadlines are tight or there are not enough workers. The advantages of a bath made of foam blocks are:

short construction time;
affordability;
a bathhouse made of foam blocks is safer, because The fire resistance of foam concrete is higher than that of wood.

The porous structure of foam blocks makes them vulnerable to the microclimate of steam rooms with a high degree of humidity. High temperature changes in baths reduce the thermal insulation properties of foam blocks. Without additional internal waterproofing and finishing, the walls of the room may be subject to premature corrosion. Construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks also involves additional expenses for external finishing. Without siding, the building will have an unsightly appearance.

Projects and drawings of foam block baths

At the bathhouse planning stage, it is worth including in its design such premises as a steam room, sink, rest room and vestibule. In order to save fuel, the building should not exceed the parameters of 5x5.5 m. If desired, the owners can place a bathroom in the bathhouse. Its dimensions will accordingly increase to 6x6 m. A terrace, veranda, or gazebo can be attached to the main room. Let's look at some bathhouse projects in more detail.

5x5.5

Universal drawing of a bathhouse 5x5 m

Construction of a bathhouse with dimensions of 5x5 m on suburban area allows you to save space while maintaining quantity functional premises. Unlike projects with large footage, such a building heats up quickly and evenly and retains heat longer.

Tambour (waiting room) – an entrance hall in which there is a dressing room, a woodshed, and sometimes storage shelves.

Restroom– a room with sun loungers, benches and a table.

Shower room,steam room– washing departments. In the steam room, a stove with a heater is laid out, shelves are installed, and the drain is dug. The shower room is also drained and a shower stall is installed.

6x7

3D project of a bathhouse with a swimming pool

In addition to the main premises, in the drawing of a 6x7 m bath you can include a bathroom, a plunge pool, or a swimming pool. The terrace or gazebo in front of the bathhouse will be an excellent place for summer relaxation. If desired, the owner can include in the construction project attic floor with a guest room.

Construction stages

The construction of a foam block bath includes earthen, stone and installation work and consists of several stages:

Marking the territory.
Laying the foundation, digging the drain.
Walling.
Roof installation.
Installation of windows and doors.
Waterproofing of walls, insulation of walls and floors.
Installation of the stove and chimney outlet.
Interior decoration.
Installation and finishing of sun loungers, shower
Exterior finishing.

Let's look at each of these stages in more detail.

Marking the territory. The perimeter allocated for construction is cleared, marked and removed upper layer soils with turf.

Preparing the area for laying the foundation

Laying the foundation. Foam blocks are most often used as a base for a bathhouse. monolithic slab, or a strip medium-deep foundation. Such bases are less susceptible to settlement and do not provoke cracking of foam concrete blocks.

According to the dimensions of the future building, a pit is dug 60 cm deep. Reinforcement is driven into its corners, or metal pins. A rope is stretched around the perimeter and intermediate pins are installed every 2 meters. Later, the curvature of the foundation will be verified using them. Boards are made from boards for future formwork.

The frame of the future foundation is welded from 12mm reinforcing bars. It is installed in a wooden formwork with a height of about 75-80 cm. Cement mortar based on grade 200 concrete is also poured into it. During the concreting process, a ventilation pipe is installed into the poured mixture. It is necessary to remove accumulated moisture and prevent the destruction of the base. After removing the formwork, any cement that gets into the ventilation is removed using a chisel and hammer. Insulate the foundation mineral wool, or a mixture of slag and expanded clay. A sewer system is installed in the steam room and shower room and covered with mesh. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the frozen foundation.

Ready foundation with ventilation pipes

Walling. Using a building level, determine the highest point of the foundation. This is where the laying of foam concrete bricks begins. The first row is laid out and secured with cement-sand mortar. Knocked out blocks are leveled using a rubber hammer. Will help control the curvature of walls laser level, or stretched thread. The overall smoothness of the walls will depend on the quality of the first level masonry.

Subsequent rows are laid out using an adhesive mixture. The finished powder is sold in construction stores. To increase the strength of the structure, every third row is lined with reinforcing mesh with small cells.

Proper laying of foam blocks

Roof installation. The gable roof is traditional option for a bath. Its design allows you to evenly distribute the weight of the roof itself and possible snowfall. While pitched roof must have a more massive structure so as not to collapse under the weight of accumulated snow. For buildings made of foam blocks, a gable roof with its lightweight frame is suitable.

When constructing the roof, take into account openings for chimney and ventilation. The ceiling and pediment of the bathhouse are covered with roofing felt and sheathed with slats. As additional insulation use mineral mats or a mixture of lime, sawdust and clay. For covering, use tiles, slate, or corrugated sheets.

Roof insulation scheme

Installation of windows and doors. The windows in the bathhouse should not be large, because... are an additional source of heat loss. Despite a large assortment In the plastic bag market, most owners prefer to install windows in a wooden frame. Doors can be made of wood or metal. During installation, it is recommended to use polyurethane foam for additional thermal insulation of the seams.

Installed window: the final result of the work

Waterproofing walls and floors. Aluminum foil is used as a vapor barrier for walls and ceilings. It protects foam concrete from condensation and retains heat in the room for a long time. Its installation does not require the construction of additional structures, since the film is attached directly to the foam block using construction stapler. If desired, the owner can choose another option for foil insulation:

foil-fabric;
foil polystyrene foam;
foil polyethylene;
foiled mineral wool.

When attaching waterproofing material to the base, it is necessary to remove kinks in a timely manner and seal the joints with aluminum tape.

Wall cladding with insulation, paloisulation and eurolining

Furnace installation. Brick stoves remain the most popular stoves for steam rooms. They combine the functions heating system and heaters, “give off heat” longer. Budget analogue brick oven is metal with a boiler for heating water. Its advantages are its affordable price and short installation time.

TO general requirements The installation of any stoves includes the presence of grounding and the distance to the wall. Both brick and iron objects need to be grounded, and should also be located half a meter from other buildings in the room: walls, shelves, tubs.

At the stage interior decoration the bathhouse is being lined wooden clapboard– the most environmentally friendly of materials. After this, sunbeds, shelves, a table are installed in the room, a shower cabin is installed, a bathroom is connected, and electricity is installed. It is worth noting that it is better to throw the wire on top facing material so that in the event of a fire or wiring malfunction, electricians do not have to open the vapor barrier layer.

An iron stove in a bathhouse can be lined with bricks

External cladding. The cladding stage is optional, because foam blocks have high thermal insulation properties. When covering with siding or corrugated sheets, you should not insulate the walls with mineral wool.

Video instructions for building a bathhouse

Today, building a bathhouse from foam blocks with your own hands is quite simple. The video tutorials clearly demonstrate all stages of work.

Preface

What could be better for your health than taking a steam bath? Probably spend this unforgettable time in your own bathhouse, built with your own hands. For this purpose, the use of natural material will be important. Let's pay attention to how to build a bathhouse from foam blocks.

Required tools and materials

Sand Vapor barrier film Armature

DIY eco-friendly sauna

The most environmentally friendly material used in any construction is wood. But not everyone can afford to build. Therefore, to reduce the cost of construction, we can recommend, which is quite popular among natural materials. After all, it contains only sand, lime, cement, which are natural elements.

Among the main qualities of this material are thermal insulation properties. Thanks to its cellular structure, the material retains heat in the room and prevents walls from freezing. Do-it-yourself bathhouse made of foam blocks - perfect option. Such a structure does not emit any harmful substances into the atmosphere.

Foundation for a bathhouse - important nuances

To build a cinder block bathhouse, the first step is to decide on what support the house will stand. Since such a structure will not be too heavy, a columnar foundation can be used. With this option, the walls rest on pillars that stand separately from each other. This option is the cheapest compared to other types of foundation.

Before choosing this foundation for a bathhouse, you need to find out what type of soil is at the construction site. Such a basis cannot be used everywhere. So that a bathhouse made of foam blocks, built with your own hands, stands firmly, most of all soil will do from fine gravel, fine sand, clay and loam. But if the soil is weak-bearing, then it is better to consider a different type of foundation, for example, a strip foundation.

Installing foundation pillars

For support pillars It will be necessary to dig holes to a depth below the soil freezing level (2 m). First of all, this is done in corners and places where walls intersect. It is recommended to place the pillars along the wall at a distance of 150–200 cm from each other. The weight of the structure will be distributed among all the pillars. Thanks to this, the load on each individual pillar will be reduced.

It is recommended to make the diameter of the post within 30–60 cm. You can dig holes either manually or using professional special drills. They are designed for drilling wells for similar types of foundations. They have expanding blades, thanks to which you can cut off the edges at the bottom of the hole - you get a well with an expansion at the bottom.

Before constructing the pillars, it is necessary to make a cushion of gravel and sand in the dug holes. It is recommended to fill it to 20–30 cm. Therefore, it is better to make a well with an appropriate reserve.

The pillars themselves are formed from brick or monolithic reinforced concrete. The second method is the simplest and most convenient to use. After all, it is enough to make a frame from reinforcement and fill it with concrete. To prevent soil from pouring into the hole during pouring and hardening of the concrete solution, it will be necessary to install a spacer or formwork. To do this, you must make the well 30–40 cm wider. We recommend making the formwork 40–50 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to obtain a gap between the future floor and the ground. This will reduce the impact of moisture on the walls.

After the formwork is installed, we form a frame from reinforcement. This will require rods 10–15 mm in diameter. The tying can be done with a special thick wire every 20–30 cm along the entire length of the rods. If a columnar foundation with a grillage is used (a monolithic reinforced concrete beam lying on all pillars), it is better to make the reinforcement bars 20 cm higher. This is required in order to tie together the pillar reinforcement and grillage.

For a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, the length of the reinforcement will have to be made even greater. Here it will be necessary to take into account the thickness of the belt, increasing the length of the rods by it. The concrete solution must be poured gradually, 30 cm at a time. Be sure to use a hand vibrator or at least an ordinary metal rod to compact the solution. This is necessary so that no air remains inside the mixture, which can reduce the strength of concrete.

Increasing foundation strength

After the solution has hardened and the pillars have gained strength, you can begin to form a reinforced concrete monolithic grillage belt (to ensure the stability and longitudinal rigidity of the foundation). To create a grillage, you will have to mount horizontal formwork. The size of the belt itself should be no less than 40x40 cm. We recommend making a gap between the ground and the grillage of at least 10 cm. This will protect the reinforced belt from winter heaving of the soil.

It is better to use 15 mm reinforcement in the grillage. In addition to horizontal rods, it is imperative to lay vertical ones - for connection with the reinforcement frame of the floor. The rods should protrude above the grillage by 30 cm. It is better to place them every 150 cm. Once all this is done, you can begin installing the formwork for the bathhouse floor, creating a floor reinforcement frame and pouring concrete.

Strong and reliable bath walls

To build a bathhouse from foam blocks, you need to properly raise its walls. To do this, just follow the step-by-step instructions.