Methods for installing a bathtub in the bathroom. How to install a bath without involving third-party specialists

The most common on the market are steel baths. One of the advantages of such containers is their relatively low cost and light weight, which makes installing a steel bathtub with your own hands quite possible.

The most common shape of steel bathtubs is rectangular. And such a container always comes with legs. Baths with curved shapes, in this case you need to pay attention to the presence of additional supports or a special reinforcing frame.

The first step is to bring the pipes to the installation site of the mixer. To do this, it is better to use metal-plastic flexible pipes. Laying them along the bottom of the wall will not be difficult, securing them with special devices that are installed on the wall with self-tapping screws into dowels.

Laying pipes in the bathroom

At the point where the pipes turn in the vertical direction, approximately 50 cm from the floor, you need to make two grooves along the thickness of the pipes and place the pipes in them. Secure with staples. Immediately screw the corners to the ends of the pipes to install the mixer. The axial distance between the corner outlets must correspond to the average axial distance between the mixer eccentrics.

Seal the grooves with pipes using alabaster in order to speed up the hardening process of the mass. Clean the bathtub installation site from debris and dirt.

Installation options for a steel bath

First of all, you need to make sure that the overall dimensions of the hot tub correspond to the size of the bathroom, otherwise installation will be labor-intensive or even impossible.

On standard legs

As a rule, bathtubs are equipped with supports, which also need to be paid attention to. The desire of manufacturers to reduce the cost of their products in order to make them more attractive often has the opposite effect - the legs can only be used theoretically:

the container must be dragged into the bathroom and placed upside down directly at the installation site;
install a siphon - to do this, screw the bushings of the upper and lower drain into the holes of the vessel. In this case, you must not forget to install the rubber gaskets from the bathtub kit, having previously treated them with silicone sealant. Connect both holes with a corrugated tube. Install a corrugated pipe at the siphon outlet, which after installation is completed will be connected to the opening of the gravity sewer pipe;

Bath siphon with overflow drain system

we install the legs - the most practical and reliable supports are “P” - shaped on a self-adhesive base. They have a slight deflection along the length, which eliminates unnecessary contact with the bathtub body. The places where the self-adhesive plates come into contact with the body must be degreased with acetone, followed by drying for 7 - 10 minutes;

Legs for steel bathtub

assemble a control system consisting of threaded rods with plastic supports and nuts. Screw the studs almost all the way to the body. By turning out the studs when installing bathtubs, it will be possible to level the level of the bathtub. Place the assembled legs on the bottom of the bathtub and press it for strong gluing to the body;

It is better to attach the legs on an inverted bathtub

Adjusting the legs of the bathtub

Bathtub grounding

turn the bathtub over and put it in place;
check the horizontalness along the diagonals of the bathtub. To do this, you need to take a rule or a long ruler, place it diagonally across the bathtub and apply a level. There should be a slight slope towards the drain, the same for both diagonals.

Installing a clawfoot bathtub

If adjustment is necessary, you need to use the adjusting screws that are equipped with the legs, and then secure their position with locknuts.

Bath installation diagram

To the corner of the room

With this arrangement of the container, two sides of the bath will be in contact with the walls. In order to achieve a reliable installation of a steel bathtub along the short side of the bathtub, it is necessary to make an additional support.

The procedure is as follows:

drill 5 holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm in the support shelf of the corner 32x32 mm;
Using the resulting holes, mark the locations for drilling holes in the wall and drill them with a 6.5 mm drill;

Special brackets for attaching the bathtub to the wall

insert bushings (dowels) into the holes and screw the corner to the wall;
move the bathtub into place, seal the gaps between the wall and the container with silicone sealant;
In the future, install ceramic skirting boards in this place.

Fastening the bathtub with special brackets

Between the walls

Bathroom designers take into account standard sizes containers, so such a coincidence is very likely. There are three contact lines and support angles are installed on both short sides of the bath. The execution procedure is the same as described above.

Installing a steel bath between walls

In the middle of the room

In this design, bathtubs are installed in own homes, where it is possible to arrange a non-standard drainage system. The container is installed on bricks and lined with brickwork, which ensures its stability, and then with tiles. A special feature of this installation is the presence of a niche at the bottom of the lining, half the length of a person’s foot in depth. In this case, the legs are not used.

Installing a steel bathtub on bricks

Many people consider this method preferable, especially those who are well acquainted with brickwork, and also if the height of the bathtub on standard legs for some reason does not suit the owner.

To raise the bathtub to the desired level, you can place bricks under the legs

As an installation option metal container is to install it on decorative legs if the bathtub is made with design design outside.

Installation materials and tools

The necessary materials and tools are summarized in the table.

Name	Application area	Conditions of use
Tools and accessories
Electric drill	Drilling holes in the wall for support corners.	When installed near walls without the use of brickwork
Drill with a diameter of 6.5 mm for concrete	Is the same	Ibid.
Drill with a diameter of 5.5 mm for metal	Drilling holes in the support corners	Ibid.
Marker	Marking locations for installing support corners on the walls, marking holes in the corners	Ibid.
Dowels	Attaching the support corners	Ibid.
Screwdriver or power screwdriver	Installation and fastening of support corners on walls
Gas key	Puff threaded connections when installing a drainage system	In all installation options
Construction level		In all accommodation options
Rule (a level bar is longer than the bathtub)	Control of horizontal installation of the container and adjustment of the slope	In all accommodation options
Construction trowel	Execution of brickwork when installing with tiling	When using brick supports and lining the bathtub with bricks
Notched spatula	Applying tile adhesive to tiles	When performing cladding
Wrench	Height adjustment of legs	In all locations
Materials
Corrugated pipe	Connecting the siphon to the sewerage system	In all installation options
Corner 32x32mm	Manufacturing of support devices on walls	When located near walls without the use of brickwork
Masonry mortar	Laying brick supports and cladding	When placed in the middle of the room or lining the bathtub with bricks
Sealant		When placed near walls
Ceramic plinth	When sealing joints between the bathtub and the wall	When placed near walls
Tile	Facing device	When using brickwork
Tile adhesive	Facing device	Facing

When installing a bathtub, you should follow some rules:

before replacing a bathtub, it is better to consult with specialists, because innovations are constantly being introduced in this matter that will be useful when performing work;

Correct connection of the bathtub to the sewer

Be sure to ground the bathtub, because the use of electrical appliances in the bathroom is by no means uncommon, including hair dryers and electric shavers and much more. No one has yet canceled the safety rules;
the space under the bathtub must be thoroughly treated with antiseptics before placing it;
Brickwork also requires the same treatment when it is used to install a container. Otherwise, damage to the masonry is inevitable. A bathtub completely enclosed with masonry must have ventilation to allow moisture to escape.

Installation of plumbing equipment requires not only relevant experience, but also high costs. Installing a bathtub in the bathroom yourself is no exception. Despite the apparent complexity, this type of work can be performed without the involvement of specialists.

Acrylic is the most popular material for making bathtubs. In addition to an acrylic bathtub, homeowners often install a plastic liner over a cast iron or steel bathtub. This allows without special effort and monetary costs to update the plumbing in the room.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub (brand Kaldewei, Triton and others) can be done in several ways:

Nuances for installing a corner acrylic bathtub

Corner baths are a universal option that is suitable for both large bathrooms and small bathrooms. They are symmetrical and asymmetrical, the sizes of the bends are standardized.

If you choose the right triangular bathtub, then in a small room you can fit not only a washbasin with a cabinet, but also a washing machine or bidet. But there are some nuances that you need to know about before installing corner bath(Ravak – Ravak, Laguna and others):

All corner baths are classified according to the type of location: right-handed and left-handed. This is very important for the proper connection of sewerage and water supply outlets;
Before starting installation work, the walls must be leveled. If you don’t do this, it will be extremely difficult to level the bathtub;
The corner bathtub is installed on legs. Supports are fixed around the entire perimeter, which will later be used to fasten the frame guides;
In the place where the bathtub is adjacent to the wall, it is imperative to install a flexible baseboard. This will help avoid leaks.

Installation of a corner acrylic bathtub Part 1

and part 2

Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame

A frame diagram is the simplest option for installing an acrylic bathtub. This method is ideal for built-in plumbing, will fit perfectly into any interior and provide ergonomics.

Step-by-step instructions on how to install an acrylic bathtub on a frame:

First of all, the surface of the walls is leveled. It is important not only to plaster the surface, but also to cover the walls with a finish - primer and putty. Installation of tiles can be done immediately or after completion of installation work;
Similar actions are carried out with the floor. The floor in the bathroom should be perfectly flat, without wide seams or irregularities. This will make it much easier to install the frame level;
To install the bathtub, you need to prepare a building level (its length should not be less than the diagonal of the bathtub), a hammer with a rubber nozzle (to secure the frame), a wrench and an adjustable wrench. You may also need various gaskets and pipes to connect the water supply sewer;
A flexible pipe is attached to the sewer outlet, the diameter of which must correspond to the outlet of the bathtub. A siphon is connected to it. The joints are treated with silicone sealant. After this, you need to wait at least 4 hours for the silicone to harden;
Next, the frame is mounted. The wall guide is installed first - it will be the main one, so it is important to align it strictly according to the level. From this guide extend the side ones, to which they are attached. vertical racks from the floor. They can be connected by welding or bolting (the first seems more reliable, but the second can be disassembled if something happens);
When all the guides are connected to each other, the level of the corners is measured. There is one strict rule: when installing bathtubs and the frame is uneven, the lowered corner rises, and does not lower the raised one. All corners are secured with metal corner strips to provide rigidity;
If all corners are at the same level, then a bathtub is installed in the frame. The overflow from the siphon is connected to the side hole, and the outlet from the sewer is connected to the central hole. The water outlet (water pipe) is located above the bathtub, so you can work with it after the installation work is completed.
To prevent bath water from spilling onto the floor, you need to close the gaps between the wall and the side rail using a curb. It is also called plinth;
The frame is closed using a screen. Additionally, it can be insulated so that the bath “keeps” the heat of the water longer. To cover the screen you can use tiles, panels or even fake diamond. It is best to work with durable, water-resistant materials.

After completing the installation work, the mixer is installed. To connect it, open a water outlet, connect a faucet to it, if necessary, also connect a sink or shower hose.

How to install an acrylic clawfoot bathtub

Most well-known bathtub manufacturers supplement their products with special fasteners and installation parts. Supports come complete with models manufactured by Jika, Roca, Riho and others.

How to properly install an acrylic bathtub with legs yourself:

Acrylic and glass bathtubs must be handled very carefully. Plastic is susceptible to deformation when exposed to shock loads. When the installation process is completed, proceed to install the mixer, washing machine and other consumers.

Video: complete video instructions for installing a bathtub

Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks

Let us immediately note that this method is quite rarely used for installing plastic bathtubs. For acrylic plumbing, not only ideal evenness is important, but also the complete absence of shock or other loads that contribute to deformation. Brick supports are quite difficult to install with your own hands so that they evenly distribute pressure over the entire plane of the bathtub.

Step-by-step instructions on how to install an acrylic bathtub on bricks:

After laying the bricks, you need to wait until the mortar hardens and only then install an acrylic bathtub on them. Certainly, appearance brick supports leaves much to be desired, so for their decoration the most different variants. This is a tile decorative panels, screen (as for a frame), etc.

Installation of a plastic bath

Installing a plastic bathtub with your own hands is no more difficult than installing an acrylic one. Moreover, all the options described above are suitable:

On the frame;
On the legs;
On bricks or other available supports.

When installing a plastic bathtub, you need to be especially careful and careful. Any incorrect movement or miscalculation in the places where the supports are installed can cause cracks to form.

Rules for installing a plastic bathtub Standard:

It is important to distribute the load evenly. This means that the supports, legs or frame must be positioned symmetrically across the entire plane of the bathtub. This will avoid deformation;
To strengthen the frame and legs, special corners are often used. The corner is a rigid metal part that ensures the strength of the connection between the support and the surface of the bathtub. Of course, you can do without it, but then during operation the structure may begin to loosen;
The pipes are connected before the bath is installed. In other words, first the supports or frame are installed, then the siphon and other outlets are attached (the shower stall is connected, etc.), and then the bathtub is installed;
IN last resort The hood, mirrors and curtains are installed. For the latter, you will need to additionally secure the cornice to the walls or ceiling.

Installation of a cast iron bath

A cast iron bathtub is considered the most durable and reliable, but it is absolutely not suitable for installation in a small bathroom (where there is also a toilet in the bathroom). It is most advisable to install it in a private home, since the average weight of such a structure reaches 500 kg.

Step-by-step instructions on how to install a cast iron bathtub:

Installation of a steel bath

It is much easier to install a metal steel bathtub than a cast iron one. It is not that heavy and, depending on the size, is perfect for installation in a small bathroom. As with the installation of a cast-iron structure, the old bathroom is first dismantled, then the walls and flooring are cleaned.

Next, the bathtub is placed on legs or a frame is built for it. When preparatory work completed, the connection of the outlets to the sewerage and water supply is ensured. After this, the bath is installed in its place and connected to the central water supply system.

Installing a bathtub in a tiled bathroom

All the methods described above imply that the tiles will be laid after the bathrooms are installed. But what if you need to install an iron bathtub or shower cabin in a tiled room?

Installing a clawfoot bathtub

Installation of a cast iron, glass or steel bathtub on legs is carried out according to a scheme similar to the installation of an acrylic structure. Of course, depending on the size or shape, the distance between the supports may vary, but in general the technology remains the same.

To learn more about the process, we suggest watching a video of installing a clawfoot bathtub:

Installing a corner bath

Installation of corner structures is the most difficult to implement independently. Let's look at how to install a Cersanit corner bathtub on legs with your own hands:

When arranging their home, every person wants to create unique comfort, beauty and coziness in the interior of their living space. Home improvement involves special attention and take care of every stage of the design of the bathroom, the sewerage and water supply systems installed in it, the operation of which must be absolutely correct, carrying out exactly those functions on which all hopes are pinned. Otherwise, property damage will occur. Therefore, you should carefully follow all the requirements and installation rules described in the instructions, especially if you are renovating the premises yourself. This article describes in detail how to properly install a bathtub in the bathroom yourself and without the help of professionals.

The bathtub is the center of the bathroom and what size, shape and color it is affects not only the mood, but also the performance characteristics. Today the market is replete with a wealth of plumbing equipment, which can be divided into three types: cast iron, steel and acrylic. You are probably thinking, what about hydromassage? That’s right, they also have a place, but they belong to the “elite” class, which is why the installation of such bathtubs is most often entrusted to specialists.

One of the most popular models on the plumbing equipment market are bathtubs made of steel and acrylic. They are characterized by lightness, hygiene, durability, reasonable price, and can be easily installed even by one person. Cast iron structures are very heavy, but they are durable, strong, and installation is carried out exclusively with an assistant.

Before installing the bathtub in a specific place, you need to think through everything carefully. First of all, you should decide what size the bathtub should be, material, color, and then buy it. It is important that it does not block access to other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, while maintaining absolute functionality and comfort.

After purchasing a new bathtub, you should get rid of the old one. A cast iron drain is usually cut out, but a plastic one can be broken. Next, the legs are broken, knocked out from under the bathtub, tilted on its side and taken out. Afterwards, the sewer socket should be cleaned, into which the corrugation should then be inserted and sealed with sealant at the joints to completely seal the corrugation.

For a cast iron bathtub, it would be ideal to use a cast iron cuff installed inside the drain hole.

How to install a cast iron bathtub on legs

Installing a clawfoot bathtub in a bathroom is quite easy. Modern baths usually equipped with a support with an adjustment mechanism. Such knives can be mounted on a concrete screed or on the floor if there is no bath screen. At the same time, it is important to understand that the installed structure will not wobble to the sides, tilt, well, but it should be positioned strictly horizontally - level.

If you decide to change the location of the bathtub, this will require additional measurements, purchasing hoses and pipes so that the installation of the bathtub can be carried out as correctly as possible and without subsequent unpleasant surprises.

Important! Do not gently remove the protection from the bathtub during work to avoid damaging the smooth surface.

Installing a steel/acrylic bathtub

Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands or an acrylic one is carried out in the same way. The work is absolutely simple and even a beginner can do it. Three sides of the bathtub should rest against the walls, which promotes better fixation. Well, installing a bathtub under the tiles, of course, is carried out before laying the tiles themselves, moreover, it is best to leave a distance of up to 5 mm between the bathtub and the walls.

To attach the supports to the bathtub, you need to turn it upside down. Some are attached closer to the drain, others to the opposite side. In the places where the supports are attached, everything is first degreased, after which the protective films are removed from the overhead elements in order to press them more firmly to the surface. If there are bolt stands, then before tightening the nuts, you should install engraving washers under the bolts.

If the supports were installed on a bathtub in the hallway, then it is most convenient to bring the structure into the opening sideways. The bathtub is installed in the designated place, moving it close to the walls. The level should be set horizontally, and the structure itself, after installation on the legs, should be carefully checked so that it does not wobble.

After this, the siphon is connected to the bathtub and sewerage system, treating all joints and cracks with sealant to avoid leaks. When all the fastening and connecting work has been completed, you can safely proceed to tiling.

Installing a steel bathtub in the bathroom

Important! After the tiles are laid on the walls, you need to check the legs again, tightening them until they stop.

Sometimes a problem may arise that the sewer hole is located high enough. Sometimes in some houses, both old and new, the sewerage system may be installed incorrectly. Therefore, installing a bathroom with your own hands requires additional elevation. For example, if you have a steel or cast iron bathtub, you can place it on wooden blocks or even bricks. Some threaded pins are replaced with elongated elements. The latter can be purchased at construction stores or markets.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks

The acrylic construction is quite light, so it can be placed on legs without any problems.

Important! After 10 years, the legs may deteriorate somewhat: rust, bend, as a result of which the slope necessary for the bath may be lost and the water will begin to go into sewer drain not completely. The bathtub itself may also crack due to the legs, so it would be better to install the bathtub on bricks yourself.

You will need:

20 pcs. red bricks;
cement mortar;
metal profile;
hammer and trowel;
tape sealant, silicone and level;
solution container;
grinder, self-tapping screws and hammer drill.

The bottom of acrylic bathtubs can be either round or rectangular, triangular or beveled. Therefore, the form of laying out the bricks must correspond to it.

Important! The height of the bath should not be more than 60 cm from the floor.

When installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks, the structure should be easily tilted forward so that the water can easily drain into the drain. For example, the height of the back rack of the bathtub will be 19 cm, and in the front – 17 cm; a distance of 50-60 cm will be maintained between the racks.

How to install a clawfoot and brick bathtub

on bricks;
on legs and bricks (combined installation).

Combined installation involves screwing the legs first and only then pave the intended space with bricks. To do this, it is necessary to make markings, according to which the brickwork is then made.

Important! Do not install the bathtub on a damp cement screed under any circumstances. She needs to be given a day, or even more, to dry out.

Mounting sealing foam is applied on top of the dried masonry. After this, the bath is installed. The correct installation of the structure is checked using a level.

For better shrinkage of the mounting foam, water is poured into the bath. The joints between the walls and the product are sealed using tape sealant or silicone.

You can also make a solid brick base.

Installing a cast iron bath

Cast iron bathtubs are high quality, heavy models, characteristic feature which serve for long-term heat retention. Before you install the bathtub on bricks with your own hands, you need to bring it into the room in height, turning it on its side and laying it in its intended place with its bottom against the wall so that the outlet hole is in a certain direction.

Installation metal bath involves fixing the supports with a coupling bolt. The wedges are attached by tapping from the center to the edges until they are firmly fixed. Each support must be equipped with an adjustment screw and nut.

Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs

Afterwards, the bathtub is turned upside down to install the side supports. Use a level and an adjustment screw to avoid any kind of tilt when setting the horizon. Smooth legs should be fixed using polymer glue so that they do not slip on the surface, or, alternatively, plastic plugs should be placed on them.

After installing the bathtub on the legs, the water supply is connected, waterproofing all the gaps, cracks and butt joints. At the end a faucet with a shower is installed.

Installing a cast iron bathtub on bricks

As mentioned above, a cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and cannot be handled alone. Therefore, experts suggest using combined option installation: on legs and bricks.

After installing the bathtub on its side, it is better to immediately connect the siphon.

Important! A siphon for cast iron bathtubs must be purchased immediately of high quality. Otherwise, replacing it will be extremely difficult.

As for the dimensions of the racks, they are indicated above. A cast iron bathtub can also be supported by racks, vertical posts installed around the perimeter of the structure. Installation on supports assumes that the height of the outer edge will be 0.5-1 cm higher than the edge in contact with the wall. This should be done to avoid water spilling onto the floor.

How to install a bathtub on bricks

We will not talk about how to install a steel bathtub on bricks, since the process is identical to those described above. Due to the fact that steel structures tend to sag, it is, of course, better to provide support along the entire bottom.

There is another method of installing the product: this is when several welded pipes are laid on supports. Such baths require grounding. If the wiring suddenly becomes faulty, grounding can save lives.

Finishing

As for the decor, this process is carried out after all work on the bathroom is completed, when it is already fully installed and secured. Bathtub lining can be done using tiles, drywall, a special protective screen made of plastic, depending on your desires and capabilities. But when sewing up the bathtub, you should provide a window for changing the siphon or cleaning it. If you close the screen tightly, you will not be able to eliminate the leak, or you will have to break everything.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is quite a difficult task. A bathtub is a bulky item that requires careful handling; It's easy to chip the enamel, but... You need to move steel and plastic bathtubs very carefully: the coating may crack due to deformation. It is impossible to warp a cast iron bathtub, but it is so heavy and strong that it can break a wall or door itself. In addition, the installation of the bathtub has to be done in a cramped space. Therefore the first condition for self-installation baths are a strong, skillful assistant. You can’t cope alone or with a stupid, weak assistant.

The second point is the installation of bath plumbing fixtures. This will have to be done almost by touch. That is, you cannot be white-handed. You must have a developed tactile sense; Simply put, your hands must be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. A tool accidentally dropped into the bathtub bowl can cause irreparable damage. And if the bathtub is acrylic, then you will have to drill blind holes in it. Here you need to be extremely careful: it is very easy to pierce acrylic with a drill.

Which bath to choose

If you plan to replace the bathtub rather than move the existing one, then you need to immediately decide which one to take:

Steel (“tin”) cheap and easy to work with. A strong man with plumbing skills can install one alone. But it is short-lived - it “plays” when water is poured in/out, which is not good for the enamel. A steel bathtub can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bathtub can be installed close to three walls; in this case, deformations from alternating loads are reduced by an order of magnitude.
Cast iron– eternal, with proper handling, but expensive. It is very difficult to work with her: she is heavy. And it’s not just a matter of weight: it’s almost impossible to place a cast-iron bathtub on an already existing one without damaging it. The siphon has to be attached to the bathtub in advance, but when moving the bathtub it is again easy to damage it. In addition, if the bathtub has decorative open legs, then leveling it is a tedious job, and adjustable legs easily break from lateral force, for example, if someone slips and falls in it. So a cast-iron bathtub with adjustable legs can only be recommended for installation between three walls.
Plastic (acrylic) baths last up to 15-20 years. It is not cheap, but cheaper than cast iron. You need two people to work with it, but without tearing, like with cast iron, and without any particular difficulties. Damaged coating is easier to renew than enamel. We can say that this is an ideal option, with the exception of: aggressive substances should not be allowed into the acrylic bathtub. detergents, neither concentrated nor in aqueous solution. In essence, you can only swim in it.

About bath heat loss

At current prices for hot water washing in the bathtub is a luxury, and it is not expected to become cheaper. In this regard, heat loss in the bathroom becomes important. In ascending order, the baths are arranged as follows:

Acrylic- the most economical. It warms up instantly and cools down very slowly: plastic is a poor heat conductor. If the temperature on the boiler is set to 60 degrees, then to fill an ordinary reclining acrylic bathtub with water at 40 degrees, its capacity of 50 liters is sufficient.
Steel- not at all economical, as it might seem. It warms up quickly, but also effectively transfers heat into space in the form of infrared radiation. A boiler is needed for 80 liters, or for a 50-liter boiler you need to set the upper temperature limit to 80 degrees. But at this temperature, the expensive magnesium protector in it will “burn out” in literally a month or two.
Cast iron bath- a calorie eater. And it takes a long time to warm up, and gives off heat well: it’s metal, after all. You need a boiler with a capacity of at least 100 liters, and in terms of money - washing in a cast iron bathtub will cost 1.5 times more than in a steel bathtub, and 2.5 times more expensive than in an acrylic one.

Preparing the bathroom

Walls

If the installation of a new bathtub is timed to coincide with the renovation of the bathroom, then it is better to postpone wall cladding “for later”, after installing the bathtub. Why? So, we placed the bathtub close to a bare wall and waterproofed the gaps (see below). We start tiling from the bottom, from the bathtub. The overhanging lower edge of the tile (it also needs to be waterproofed after laying the tiles) forms a kind of teardrop, which greatly reduces the likelihood of rot and mold developing.

Note: V In this case, a row of tiles that is incomplete in height will be visible. In order to preserve the decorative qualities of the cladding, it is better to place it in the middle of the wall height - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip along the wall is made from tiles of a different color, it may turn out even more beautiful than expected.

If the bathtub will only be replaced, then the new one on legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned out 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm higher than the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, then it will be difficult to make the visible gap aesthetically pleasing: although facing tiles does not fade; dirt has ingrained into its previously hidden part and cannot be removed.

Floor

The floor under the bathtub must be level and durable; especially for cast iron, which weighs a lot even when empty. In this case, you need to make sure that the floor tiles are laid on solid cement with extrusion, and not on a “comb”. Under the weight of the bathtub, the tiles can crack from the slightest void underneath.

Note: in order not to re-lay the floor and not worry about its strength at all, you can lay two forty boards (logs) made of larch on the floor (only teak is suitable from this, from other wood, but it is not widely sold). The boards are laid lengthwise so that the legs of the bathtub rest on them. The wood must be and then oiled or impregnated with PVA putty through and through. A plank cushion will not only distribute the load on the floor, but will also solve all problems with the height of the bathtub, see below. However, before waterproofing the gaps and/or cladding, the boards need to be allowed to shrink: fill the bathtub with water to the top and leave it there for at least two days, or better yet, a week.

Bath height

The installation height of the bathtub is important not only for its connection with the wall cladding and the convenience of plumbing work. A higher raised bathtub will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow. This is important primarily for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely it is that any infection from the sewer will seep through it in reverse order.

Then, the flow from the high bath will become more intense. How long it takes for her to empty is not so important. Another thing is important: an additional rise of the bathtub by only 4-5 cm with correctly selected drain fittings almost completely eliminates the accumulation of hair on the drain mesh and in the siphon. Anyone who has ever taken out this, to put it mildly, very, very unattractive lump from there, knows what it means.

Selection of drain fittings

Material

Bathtub drain fittings are mainly made of two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be recognized by its greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene reinforcement is more expensive, but has important advantages over vinyl:

Polyisopropylene is several times stronger than PVC; Accordingly, the likelihood of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
Polyisopropylene is durable and resistant to aggressive environments; it does not become brittle over time.
The surface microstructure of polyisopropylene is smoother than PVC, and is not lumpy, but stream-like. Therefore, propylene plumbing is much less prone to clogging than PVC.
Due to the same smoothness, the hydraulic resistance of propylene pipes is one and a half times lower than PVC. That is, a propylene overflow hose with the same cross-section will pass through more water, and there is less risk of flooding your neighbors.

Typical bathroom drain assembly diagram

Drain

Do not take a “Chinese” drain that is assembled on a bolt. The bolt will rust, even if the mesh is stainless steel. Within a month, the rust will grab the bolt so much that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: if something happens, you will have to break it and install a new one. There is no point in replacing the bolt with a brass or bronze one: the material will turn green and set in the same way. And sharpening a stainless steel bolt to order is also pointless: you don’t know the grade of steel from which the mesh is made. Therefore, a bolt made of another stainless steel in water with a mesh forms a galvanic couple, and electrocorrosion will immediately occur with the same setting.

Drain mesh

Also, do not take a drain with a mesh in the form of a cross of two crossbars. This mesh is a very good hair catcher, and pulling it out is difficult and disgusting. A grid of circular holes located around the circumference is better. But the best (and most expensive) option is a mesh of oblique profiled slits. In a bathtub with such a drain, you can manually wash carpet, calico, flannel, and the drain will not become clogged, and the mesh will remain clean.

Cork chain

The usual chain of cork soon breaks, and in any case becomes covered with a coating of salts, which does not add any attractiveness to the bath. There are drain devices with a remote-controlled plug, but they are expensive and prone to failure. Therefore, advice: immediately replace the chain with a thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm fishing line, better colored, it is clearly visible in the water.

Overflow pipe

Don't take the hard one - it's a relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to install, and its clearance with the same outer diameter is larger, which means there is less chance of overflowing.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bathtub you will need some special tools:

Rule. This is a flat, rigid bar the length of the diagonal of the bathtub. Needed to level the bathtub. Even an amateur does alignment along the diagonals in two steps, but to align along the sides it takes 4-6 iterations, and it often turns out that the drain is cracked after that.
Fork wrench for tightening release parts. You won’t be able to grab it with an adjustable pliers, but using pliers is extremely inconvenient and can cause damage.

Small rubber mallet. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bathtub when assembling it. Tapping with a metal hammer due to resonance can cause the formation of microcracks in the enamel, but a wooden mallet will not. the required strength and strike accuracy.

Note: You can adapt a stamping hammer like a rubber hammer by pulling a piece of durite hose onto its spherical butt.

Materials needed silicone sealant(MS-based sealants are expensive and do not have significant advantages over silicone) and cotton (“rag”) electrical tape if the bathtub is acrylic. A drill limiter is made from electrical tape. PVC electrical tape slides off easily. But an absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same durite hose stretched tightly over the drill.

On leveling and connecting the outlet to the sewer system

The basic principle of alignment is to raise the lowered corner, and not lower the raised one. Remember, the higher the bathtub, the cleaner the drain. But, if a rigid connection is used to connect the bathtub outlet pipe to the sewerage system rubber cuff, then it may simply not fit into place, or turn out if it is already installed, or the drain may break.

Therefore, the final connection with the sewer must be done after leveling, and the cuff must be soft, made of microfoam or neoprene, so that the drain outlet pipe can become inclined. Instead of a cuff, it is preferable to use raw rubber or soft rubber sealant– it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; design service life is 100 years. In the USSR it was known as “military sealant”.

But the easiest option is to purchase a drain fitting with a wider outlet pipe so that the gap can simply be filled with silicone. You can’t blow it out with polyurethane foam: it expands greatly when it hardens; the influx from inside can block the outlet, and everything will have to be redone.

Actually, diagonal alignment is done like this:

The rule is to lay the bath diagonally, place a level on it and achieve horizontality by tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
Transfer the rule to another diagonal and repeat the procedure.
Check to see if the initial diagonal has gone astray. If the floor is level, this does not happen.

When leveling along the sides, the level is placed on the side of the bathtub and the legs of this side are adjusted. Then they move to the other side, but after leveling there, the horizontality of the original side is lost, and they have to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: You need to achieve horizontality. The slope of the bottom of the bathtub bowl towards the drain is already provided.

Sewerage preparation

The sewer pipe connection and the inside of the pipe itself must be dry to ensure reliable sealing. Firstly, for this purpose, when installing a bathtub, there should under no circumstances be a drain from the kitchen.

Secondly, sewer pipe and the pipe half a meter to the sides needs to be thoroughly dried from the inside. If there is only a small amount of plaque, you don’t have to clean it off, but you need to dry it thoroughly. This is done, as you probably already guessed, with the wife’s hairdryer, which may not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installing the bathtub, try to take your family somewhere. With the possible exception of an adult son - an assistant.

Example diagram of bathtub installation:

Installation of an acrylic bathtub

To install an acrylic bathtub, you will first have to attach complete guides (cradles) for the legs to its bottom. They are installed across the bottom using special complete self-tapping screws.

The marking of the cradle fastenings for the self-tapping screws is done strictly according to the instructions. If nothing is said about this, it means that the positions of the cradle are standard: the front one is 7 inches (17.78 or just 17-18 cm) from the inner length of the edge of the drain hole; rear - at the place where the bowl transitions to the rear curve.

The holders are placed perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bathtub, the drilling locations are marked with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, and they are drilled with a drill with a limiter. The drilling depth is 3/4 of the length of the screw body.

Then the previously inverted bathtub is placed on its side and the drain fittings are installed. There are nuances here:

All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
The drain gasket is installed OUTSIDE.
The gasket between the overflow and the overflow hose is conical, i.e. wedge-shaped in section. It needs to be placed with the tip of the wedge against the edge of the hose so that when tightened it will press into the spacer.
Threaded connections are not tightened tightly.

The bathtub is turned upside down again and the legs are mounted. The adjusting screws are screwed in with measurements so that they protrude equally. Next, the bath is turned over and brought into the bathroom; a more experienced worker should be on the drain side.

Then the bathtub is carefully placed in place, pushed close to the walls. An experienced person will ensure that the bathtub outlet enters the sewer pipe. Then the bath is leveled and the outlet is sealed. While the sealant has not hardened, use a fork wrench to tighten the joints tightly: whoever is larger sits in the bathtub and holds it, and whoever has smaller hands bends, reaches and twists: all turnkey spaces are on the outside. After the sealant has hardened (if it is silicone; if it is a soft sealant, immediately) check for leaks.

If it does not leak, or is eliminated, the same silicone is used to seal the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the walls. Spills and spills of silicone are immediately removed with a rag soaked in vinegar. All that remains is to install the screen, but more on that later.

Steel bath

Installation of a steel bathtub is done in the same way as an acrylic one, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into standard fasteners and secured with bolts, nuts on threaded rods or wedges. You need to fix it tightly, but gradually, shaking the legs and tapping them with a rubber hammer. The legs should sit in place like a glove.

There is also a nuance here: if the play in fastening the legs allows, you need to place pieces of rubber from the surfaces in contact with the bathtub bowl under them. car camera. Then the bathtub will ring less when filling with water.

Cast iron bath

Installation cast iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and moving it is risky for the environment. Therefore, if the size of the bathroom allows, the “naked” bathtub should be immediately brought there and equipped with a drain and feet. If the bathtub has decorative legs, then its leveling is also done in a “naked” form on site, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Leveling a bathtub on decorative legs is a labor-intensive and extremely responsible operation. Pads under the legs ruin the aesthetics, and filing the legs requires precise measurements and professional skills. And every time such a bathtub needs to be dragged out, turned over, and then put back on its legs and dragged in. Therefore, for a bathtub with decorative legs, the bathroom floor needs to be highly durable.

It is also inconvenient and risky to place a cast-iron bathtub on its side once again to install the drain. Therefore, it should be immediately placed on two strong boards, and to install the drain, raise the front edge by placing chocks or bricks under them. And work extremely carefully: a “splashed” bath guarantees a broken arm or a crushed hand.

Plastic bath

There are cheap substitutes for acrylic bathtubs on sale. When installing such a plastic bathtub, in addition to being especially careful with it, you need to place several larch blocks under the bottom, treated in the same way as the joists under the legs. With such a pillow, absolutely budget bath It may well last for ten years.

Screen

The screen for the bathtub can be either complete or complete. There are many descriptions of homemade screens, and their designs are surprising for such simple device variety. There is only one recommendation: do not bring the screen 5-6 cm to the floor. The trash under the bathtub will still not be visible, but such a gap will reduce the likelihood of damage to the screen by a kick.

For complete screens, a groove or latches are provided at the bottom of the bathtub side. In this case, sealing the outlet inlet into the sewer and the cracks between the bathtub and the wall is done last. Installation of the screen under the bathtub is carried out with the bathtub already leveled and standing in place, the outlet pipe of which is still hanging in the air in the middle of the sewer outlet.

The bath is lifted, the screen is pushed into place, and the bath is carefully lowered until the top of the screen fits into the groove or is caught by the latches. Then the outlet and cracks are sealed. To seal the outlet, complete screens are provided with hatches or sliding doors.

Note:

If the complete screen is blank, then you need to look for a drain fitting with a flexible corrugated outlet pipe. Then the sealing of the interface with the sewer is done in advance. But this is not the best option: the maintainability of such a drain is zero.

For a bathtub with a complete screen, a layer of joists under the legs is not applicable, unless you somehow raise the screen. And such a bathtub needs to be aligned not only horizontally, but also along the height of the screen.

In general, the best option is not a complete or homemade one, but a purchased bath screen. These screens are equipped with adjustable legs. They can be adapted even to a standing bathtub: screw the legs all the way, push them in, and unscrew them until they rest against the bottom of the bathtub side.

Summary

Installing a bathtub yourself, especially a cast iron one, is hard and complex work. For a beginner, we can recommend installing only an acrylic or steel bathtub yourself.

1. The upper plane is not level

The design of any bathtub implies its own slope of the bottom. That is, the upper edge is leveled, while the bottom has its own slope towards the drain. An additional tilt is not only unnecessary, but also harmful - in such a bathtub the chances of slipping increase.

2. The sewer slope is too small

Height difference sewer pipes according to SNiPs - for Ф50mm - 3 cm per meter, for Ф110mm - 1.5 cm per meter. If you are really stressed about the height, then even the fiftieth pipe can be laid 1.5 cm per meter - the drainage will be normal. Verified by the author.

If you make the slope smaller, the water will drain away slowly. In this case, you will have to wait a long time to rinse the bathtub after washing. And also foam and dirt will be deposited on the walls of the bathtub and pipes, which are then more difficult to wash off, and the pipes may generally become completely clogged and will have to be cleaned.

3. Corrugation is used to connect the siphon to the sewer system

Only rigid pipes, avoiding right angles.

4. For a steel bathtub, the screws securing the legs to the bathtub are overtightened

It is no coincidence that the nuts for such screws are made in the form of wings. They can only be tightened by hand. If you use keys or pliers, then The enamel of the bathtub in the place where the screw is attached is easily peeled off and it will be impossible to fix it! So, many years ago, I had to replace one bathtub with a new one.

5. Spring pads are used

Under no circumstances should rubber or similar pads be placed under the legs of the bathtub, as well as under the bottom of the bathtub. If the bathtub springs against them during operation, a crack will definitely appear between the bathtub and the wall. And water will begin to flow there.

Steel bathtubs are supplied with self-adhesive gaskets between the bathtub and the legs. It is permissible to leave them. Additional spring pads should be avoided.

6. There is no bath grounding

According to SNiP standards, the bathtub must be grounded (connected) electric wire cross-section not less than that of the phase wire, with water pipes and electrical panel.

To ensure reliable contact for cast iron bathtubs, it is enough to wrap the wire around the adjusting screw of the leg and tighten it on both sides with nuts and washers and one locking washer.

This option is not suitable for a steel bathtub, since self-adhesive gaskets isolate the bathtub from the legs. For grounding purposes, the steel bath has special petals with holes for bolts.

But, almost always, these petals are painted with enamel, like the entire bath. Because enamel does not allow electricity, before grounding it must be carefully removed from the required area.

This can be done using an angle grinder (grinder), removing the paint at the point of contact. You can also use pliers to slightly bend the petal at the point of contact of the wire, the enamel in this place will “shoot off”. Therefore, the work must be carried out wearing safety glasses. Then, the joint can be coated with lithol or any other lubricant, or painted to prevent oxidation.

7. Using silicone and flexible corners to form a junction between the bathtub and the tiles

Plastic flexible corners installed on a bathtub quickly lose their appearance. The same applies to silicone. According to statistics, on average they will need to be changed once a year. It is better to abandon them completely in favor of joining the tiles on top and grouting. But, if the silicone is good and made in such a way that water does not stagnate on it, then it may well last for a long time.

8. Bath stands are not moisture-resistant and not rigid enough.

In 9 cases out of 10, the bathtub has to be raised higher than what is provided by the factory adjusting screws. If you use wooden or rubber stands for these purposes, then in the first case they may dry out, and in the second, as mentioned above, the bathtub will “breathe” and a crack will inevitably form where the bathtub adjoins the wall.

9. The tile shelf is made not at the head, but at the feet

If the shelf between the bathtub and the wall (lengthwise) is made not at the head, but “at the feet” (the feet are where the drain is), then when taking a shower, the main flow of water will flow onto this shelf, and possibly from it onto the floor. If the slope of the shelf is small, then the water will stagnate on it. If it’s big, then you won’t be able to put anything on it.

Conclusion - a shelf at the head is more convenient and practical.

10. The bathtub is recessed too deep into the walls.

If the length of the side of the bathtub is sunk into the wall to a great depth, then it becomes uncomfortable to sit in this bathtub - the wall is too close. It is also inconvenient to place various shelves and seats on the bathtub.

And it doesn't look too pretty.

11. Access to the audit is blocked.

If a homemade screen is installed on the bathtub, then it is necessary to provide access to the bathtub piping. Sometimes you need to clean the siphon or make some other repairs.

You can install plastic or metal hatches with magnets. But this option doesn’t look very good. It is best to use built-in secret hatches under the tiles. It is also possible to install the tile with 4 magnets, as described.

Leave a comment on this article at the bottom of the page and receive a selection of useful tips from Stanislav Plitochkin as a gift:

How to glue broken plastic products so they become stronger than new ones.
The best way to drill a hole in tile.
Refinement of the angle grinder, with a cost of 85 rubles and 1 hour of working time, increases the service life of the angle grinder and the diamond wheel by 2 times.
How to make beautiful and durable bath stands from inexpensive, available materials.
How to tighten a drill chuck without a key.
Pitfall when installing a wall-mounted toilet.

118 comments

Thanks a lot.
Everything is clear and intelligible. I learned a lot of useful things. In particular, about the magnetic hatch, preparing pipes for walling, and about grouting sawn tiles.
Thanks again.

Thank you, Stanislav, for the article!
I agree, silicone often loses its appearance in the first months of use. But here’s the paradox - my sister’s bathroom was renovated more than 10 years ago - the silicone is like new!!! Sorry I didn't remember the manufacturer.

Yes, this is a lucky break. Good silicone plus good ventilation, plus caring hands the housewife (I'm sure she often wipes dry the remaining water after using the bath) - the result, of course, will please you.

Currently I am preparing material on installing bathtubs. There will be a subsection describing the rules for using and caring for the bathroom.

The gift was sent by mail.

I have been decorating for several years and still find something new for myself on your site. Many came to construction not from special schools but by chance. In many ways, you have to learn on your own or learn from the experience of others. Your sai good help those who still continue to improve their skills and increase their professional abilities.
Regarding the shelf between the wall and the bathtub, it is worth paying attention to the location of the tap. Will the water flow onto the shelf, the height, will it interfere? It is advisable that the bathtub and faucet are already available and on site. This will remove questions and unnecessary pain.

Thanks for the comment! Yes, Alexander, I didn’t study at school either; I had to gain knowledge from books and in communication with other finishers. But the most great experience was purchased by its own cones. Now I realize that this is the wrong approach and I strongly recommend that everyone find required description and study it. Moreover, with the Internet it is much easier to do this!
Regarding the mixer above the shelf, this is exactly what is said in the ninth paragraph of this article. But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the mixer should be located “at the feet” (above the bathtub drain), but for an inexperienced reader this may not be so obvious. This point will definitely be covered in the instructions.
Sent bonuses.

Thank you, informative! Right now there is a problem in choosing pads for the legs of the bathtub... the bathtub is cast iron, heavy, legs with adjusting bolts. Can you tell me any way?

- Thank you for the useful tips. As for “like it or not,” I can say the following: I agree with you that laying bricks is unaesthetic; the second method, which involves pouring pipe scraps, is certainly interesting and looks good, although it didn’t suit me, because there is no need to raise the bathtub high; the length of the original bolts was quite enough for a good drainage and for ease of use of the bathtub itself. However, if I ever install a bathtub on “short” legs, I will probably use this method. Personally, I liked and found your advice to use plugs from polypropylene pipes. It’s very simple, cheap and doesn’t scratch the tiles. Just what I need.
  - - Hello! It may be too late to discuss the topic….
      There are two questions.
      1. Does an acrylic bathtub need to be grounded?
      2. We bought an acrylic corner and a frame for it. The legs are so short that any drain does not fit, the legs are suspended, and the bathtub is drain pipe. And besides, the legs in the center under the bottom of the bathtub are shorter than those in the corners. Buying high legs is expensive, the frame is expensive... Can you share the method?
      And yet, maybe it’s like this for everyone, the bottom of the bathtub is slightly curved, while the water flows well into the drain, somehow conveniently on the sides. My husband says it takes time for it to settle and level out. But I think that the bathtub should stand rigidly and so that the bottom does not play, which is intended
      
      Hello, Elena!
      There is no need to ground an acrylic bathtub.
      The legs are short - increase their length. To do this, it is enough to purchase a meter-long pin and couplings of the appropriate diameter, as well as locknuts with lock washers or a thread lock in the form of a paste.
      The second option is to make stands, which are described in the bonus. But with an acrylic bathtub it will be more difficult to install them - access to the far legs is too difficult.
      The bottom of the bathtub will not bend over time. If it plays, then it is better to organize a support under it in the form of bricks or bars placed on foam.

Thanks for the advice! I am renovating my bathroom and am very worried about the results, especially after your article. How many dangers! .I have a problem with the legs of the Rosa cast-iron bathtub. The adjusting bolts included with the legs turned out to be a little short (because of the box with pipes, you have to lift it higher to move it close to the wall), we also need shims for these bolts. Question - You don’t recommend wood and rubber, but what should you choose? Paving slabs, metal spacers? I had already obtained an oak beam, but I began to doubt something. Although Venice stands on oak stilts...

I continue to study the site. Everything's great. Have you ever had to cover a steel bathtub with Shumka? What materials did you use and what did you glue them with? Very relevant, I'm picking up the Roca bathtub tomorrow, I'd like to make some improvements before installing it.
I would like to see how you improved your angle grinder. Thank you!

I covered Kaldevey steel bathtubs with standard sound insulation, see here:
I also insulated it with mounting foam - it takes 3 cylinders per bath. But this is the case when the bathtub is walled up tightly. Tomorrow I will sculpt the usual energyflex on liquid nails. True, this will not be sound insulation, but heat insulation. A good option is car sound insulation. In practice, the more expensive the better...

Please tell me if the tiles on the wall are already laid to the floor
Do I need to make some kind of recess in the hay under the side of the bathtub or can I somehow fix it close to the tile and make a baseboard?

Good advice, not just made up, as is often the case now. In practice, a slope of 3 cm per meter is too much - as a result, the rise is too large. Thank you!

Thank you for the article! I would also like to get advice from a GURU regarding lifting the standard short legs of a Roca cast iron bathtub. What is better to use instead of rubber pads? And what is the best way to ground it if the drain and overflow are copper and all the pipes are polypropylene?

Sent a selection, Olga. The answer to the first question is in it. About grounding a cast iron bathtub: According to SNIPs, the bathtub is grounded copper wire with a cross-section of at least 4mm2, stretched from electrical panel. The risers with hot and cold water. If the risers are polypropylene, then the wire can be connected to the metal parts of meters or coarse filters using stainless steel clamps. The wire can be connected to the bathtub itself by tightening it with a bolt in a special eyelet, or if one is not provided, then by clamping it between the nuts on one of the legs.

What can you tell me about connecting an acrylic bathtub to a tile? Manufacturers do not recommend attaching tiles on top of an acrylic bathtub; the only option left is silicone or plastic corners.

You said everything correctly, Dmitry. Silicone or plastic corners. But personally, three months ago I had the opportunity to install an acrylic bathtub with tiles on top. True, very significant measures were taken to eliminate possible movements baths. The junction was sealed with white silicone. I note that replacing the bathtub will also become much more complicated. But, with careful use, an acrylic bathtub will easily last 15 years or more.

Hello, Stanislav. I really like your articles, you talk about those important “little things” that allow you to do repairs with pleasure and with high quality. The advice about the magnetic hatch has already been adopted. Simple, and most importantly, aesthetically pleasing. I’m really looking forward to the selection of articles, and I would also like to gain access to password-protected pages. What needs to be done for this?

Hello Mamtria! Thanks for your feedback! I’ll tell you one secret: For any sane comment on any article, I will send you access to all bonuses and password-protected materials.) If something is missing, write and I’ll add it. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you are interested in, I will try to answer everything.

Good day!
I can't figure it out on point 3. "3. Corrugation is used to connect the siphon to the sewer
Only rigid pipes, avoiding right angles.”
How can this be implemented? Maybe there is a photo?
What kind of rigid pipe can be used and how can this connection be subsequently maintained?
Thank you in advance.

Thank you very much for the advice, it’s good that I found your site. I would like to know on what supports, from what material to install such a bathtub http://es26.ru/products/6518937 And what kind of gaskets to install under the bottom of the bathtub. It’s just that the bathtub was installed a long time ago by other people, and it wasn’t done very well, I would like to do it smarter.
- Hello, Sergey! I don’t understand what kind of legs your bathtub has now. If they are relatives, then it’s easy to make them for them good stands and install. At the same time, secure the bathtub itself in the manner described in this place: .. How to make linings - sent to you by mail. The plastic pads between the legs and the tub that come with the kit are quite good, you don’t need to do anything with them.
  If the legs are not original, then you need to secure the side of the bathtub as described above, remove the old legs and install stands made of moisture-resistant gypsum block with a gap of 10...15mm. Fill the gap with polyurethane foam, which will hold the bath well. It is advisable to install the gypsum block below with tile adhesive or pearlfix. You can do the same by laying bricks on the “edge”.

Tell me, the renovation was completed 1.5 years ago. They didn’t immediately realize that our repairmen had left a “surprise.” The drain in the bathtub is not working well, the water is constantly standing, I don’t understand how to unscrew everything now to raise the bathtub.

Ksenia, I sympathize with your grief... If you are one hundred percent sure that the problem is a small difference in height, then there is only one way out - to raise the bathtub. I don’t suggest installing a “Sololift” system with forced drainage; it’s complicated and expensive. If it’s relevant, write to me by email and I’ll give you information on the technology for lifting the bathtub.

Good afternoon
Thank you for the article and your conscientious approach to the matter.
Soon we will have to raise the cast-iron bathtub by 6 cm.
They wanted it for paving slabs. From your article did we understand that this is not the best option?
Please advise me on what to put the legs of the bathtub on.

Hello! Bathtub Roca 100×70. Screw legs slide along porcelain stoneware floor like walking on ice. What can you substitute? Plugs from polypropylene pipes also slide! !! What can you think of? Yes, I note that the walls are made of PVC panels, i.e. You cannot attach a bathtub to them. Thank you in advance for your response.

Hello! We bought a Roca cast iron bathtub with an anti-slip coating, but it comes with very short legs of 8 cm... Please tell me what can be added? I thought that I could use rubber or silicone anti-vibration stands for a washing machine or wooden squares from flooring pine boards, but from the information on your website, I realized that this is not advisable...
- - Hello! The situation is similar with the Roca bathtub. The “specialists” installed it on scraps of plywood. They turned on the heating and a month later the bathtub sank. Can you please tell me what can replace the plywood stands?
    - Stands are made from scraps sewer pvc pipes filled with sand concrete. Details in the selection that was sent to you by email.

Hello! To install a bathtub close to the wall, prevent cast iron pipe, the master advised replacing it with metal-plastic, installing it in the floor, thereby completely hiding it. The master suggests changing the pipe only in the bathroom, which is smaller in diameter than the cast iron one. I am concerned about the safety of the heating system and whether the room will be warm enough without damaging the circulation throughout the house. Waiting for your answer. Thank you!

Hello!
I am planning to install a cast iron bathtub on tile, but I am worried that a corner of the tile under the legs may crack or break off due to the legs possibly getting into the voids.
Please advise how best to remove the point load from the legs, preferably by raising the bathtub a little (to allow for better drainage).
Thank you in advance!

Greetings, Alexey! You can remove the point load by using the pads that I talked about in the bonus I sent you. The second option is to place paving slabs under the legs. They are different thicknesses and configurations. But the most important thing is that the voids under the tiles can be easily calculated by simply tapping the tile with a pencil. If there is emptiness, the sound will immediately change. So perhaps your concern is in vain.

Hello! Please advise what to do best: an acrylic bathtub with legs was installed, due to the flexibility of the acrylic, the grout quickly fell out, after which they decided to waterproof it with silicone sealant, but it also did not last long. Is there an option to strengthen the bathtub and remove this flexibility without dismantling the bathtub and what is the best way to seal the seam.

Greetings, Ivan! A familiar problem. The edges of an acrylic bathtub are pressed when pressed, and this is the main disadvantage of these bathtubs. How to defeat him? — In accessible places, the bend of the side of the bathtub can be drilled to the wall. If it’s inaccessible, I can suggest sliding a stick, or better yet, a duralumin square under the side of the bathtub and spreading it to the floor. This is not easy to do, but it is possible. You can increase the pressure with pads.
You can seal the seam with two-component automotive metal putty. But this is only if you are sure that the wall is strong enough, dry and dust-free. For example, heavy concrete or tiles. But if on the wall gypsum plaster, - then it’s better to go through a good first acrylic primer and dry.
The bonus has been sent.

Good afternoon, I have the problem described above. It is necessary to raise the cast iron bathtub by 5 cm. I made a mistake during installation.
wedged the legs to the bathtub, i.e. It will be difficult to get them out. 2 I placed small blocks under the legs, which dried out over time. As a result, the side cracked and the grout cracked.
Now I want to lift the bathtub a little with 2 jacks, pull out the bars and put metal plates under them.
I want to drill the plates and insert 2 bolts so that this structure can be lifted along with the bathtub.
please tell me what is better to put under the head of the bolt so that the tile does not break.
thank you and good luck

Greetings, Timur! Under the heads of the bolts, in your case, you can place circles of a suitable size, cut from a duralumin corner or plate. Any durable waterproof material will do: copper, stainless steel, textolite, getinax, polycarbonate. If I understand correctly, the bathtub leg will rest on a plate into which two bolts are screwed in with their heads facing down. But such a design will be very unstable. Three bolts are required for stability. Apparently, you are a hardworking person. In a good way. But here I would advise you not to complicate the solution of the problem so much. All you have to do is lift the bathtub with a jack and place the stands under the legs, the description of which I have already sent you. Since the grout above the side of the bathtub is already cracked, there is no particular need to return the bathtub to its original position - you will still have to clean out the cracked grout and grout with new one. But the risk of damaging the tile when jacking or squeezing with bolts is quite high. Therefore, it is better not to try to lift the bathtub, but simply support it with a jack to remove the load from the legs. Then do not pull out the bars, but split them using a chisel and hammer. Next, install the manufactured stands under the legs and, if necessary, supports in the form of coins or fragments of a paint knife blade.
- Does the grout just need to be repaired where it is cracked or cleaned out completely? and wipe it over with new one?
  I impregnated it with a water-repellent grout, do you think the new grout will stick? although about 3 years have already passed, this impregnation has probably already washed off)
  - There isn't much difference. If the grout is not too difficult to clean, then it is better, of course, to clean it all out and grout it with new one. But you can also embroider and rub it. It should be taken into account that the new grout and the old one will differ in shade. The grout should adhere normally to impregnation. It's just always better not to put grout thin layer, and with a depth of at least 2mm. This way she will hold on better.

Good afternoon, and I would also like to get advice from you regarding lifting the standard short legs of a cast-iron Roca bathtub and securely fastening it in conditions that there are already tiles on the floor and walls everywhere.
The bathtub was installed, but for some reason these legs do not inspire any confidence. Thanks in advance.

Good day! The short legs of the Roca bathtub have adjusting screws that can be replaced with longer ones. Or use the stands that are described in the letter sent to you.

Hello. Thanks for your valuable advice. Short and to the point. Learned a lot of new things. I just removed my old bathtub and am now trying to install it back. But there is a problem. The bathroom consists of plaster walls - it is a 9th floor panel. The walls where the bathtub adjoins separate sections turned to powder gray and as I understand it, this is the reaction of plaster to water. Now I can’t imagine how to “restore” these sections of the walls in order to give them the original geometry of the walls, in the sense of exactly what materials. Can you recommend how to repair plaster walls of a bathroom, taking into account the possible ingress of water into these areas in the future? Can you also recommend a sanitary sealant against mold, including one on which mold actually does not grow? Many manufacturers write on sealants that they are mold free, but apparently mold cannot be read and grows well on these sealants. Thank you.

Hello Roman! thanks for good question. Regarding the plaster. Don't worry too much, this matter can be fixed. First, exfoliate everything that is falling off, and then dry it. Next, walk along the walls liquid glass, directly with a brush or roller so that as much as possible is absorbed. If it seems that it is poorly absorbed, dilute it a little with water. When it dries, you can go through it again. This is the most best primer and waterproofing. Just be careful - after drying, liquid glass cannot be cleaned from tiles and earthenware. Next, plaster the walls with any plaster, dry it, prime it with a regular primer or again with liquid glass. If the tiles are properly laid and grouted, water cannot enter the walls through the tiles. So don't worry about this. But regarding mold, this is very important point. You correctly said that sealant manufacturers are lying to customers. I personally have not met such a sealant that can completely defeat fungus. Here you need to approach it strategically - eliminate the cause of the fungus. The most popular reason is the tightness of the bathtub room. That is, they will install a door with a threshold or minimal clearance between the door leaf and the floor, and then expect the bath to be ventilated by a fan. But if there is nowhere for air to flow, then the humidity will not go anywhere, and no fan will help here. It is also necessary to check the hood to see if it works well. There is another reason for humidity in the bathroom - condensation on the walls. If the wall borders a street or an entrance, then condensation will also constantly appear on it. To avoid this phenomenon, you need to insulate the wall or provide additional heating.

I can say about sealants that they often turn black over time due to the fact that they are applied with a “failure”, that is, a groove is formed in the corner between the sink and the wall, in which water stagnates. In such cases, mold is, of course, inevitable. In general, the conclusion is simple - the main enemy of mold is dryness, and you should strive to ensure it by all means.
I sent you a selection.

A cast iron bathtub 70 by 170 has very dubious standard legs, does the bathtub need to be further strengthened or insured? Is there a replacement for such legs and can the bolts be replaced with longer ones of a different metal?

Can I have a photo of these standard legs? Until now, only fairly reliable ones have been encountered, except that the thread is not cut all the way through or is crooked. The bathtub is strengthened automatically when walled under the tiles. The screws can, of course, be replaced. But you shouldn’t get carried away with the length, since with a non-coaxially cut thread, you get a large lever arm for breaking this leg. Another metal, meaning more durable and moisture resistant? - Then of course yes!

Good article, Thank you. I have a question about the legs of cast iron bathtubs and the linings under them. Novokuznetsk cast iron bathtubs “Universal” have adjustable legs with bolts at the end. Is it possible to install their 70x170 bathtub simply on the heads of these bolts (as is apparently calculated by default), these faceted heads are about 13-15 mm in diameter (I don’t remember exactly, maybe 10mm, but somewhere like that), the tiles are not will it crack? Or do I need to put something wider?
Tiles 43x43x9 mm

By and large, you can leave the heads of the bolts - they will not push through the tile if it is well laid and there are no voids under it. There is one small nuance - these bolts are black, not covered with anything and will rust over time - accordingly, the appearance will not be particularly neat. You can place plugs under these caps for polypropylene pipes of suitable diameter. They cost a penny, but are quite durable and waterproof. There is one more point with these bolts: very often the bolts of the front legs (near the drain) have to be unscrewed to the maximum so that the bend of the siphon does not rest on the floor. In this case, the rear bolts turn out to be short, since the bottom has a slope towards the drain hole. In this case, you will have to purchase new bolts, longer ones. So, when going to the store, you can kill all the birds with one stone: buy 4 polypropylene plugs, galvanized bolts, nuts with washers for them, and, as a icing on the cake, four lock washers, which will not be superfluous for such a critical connection.
Well, or just use the footrests described in the letter sent to you.

Good afternoon
What is the minimum length gap for installing a steel bathtub?
I plan to install Roca Swing 180×80; after laying the tiles, the “niche” turned out to be exactly 180 cm.
Will I be able to “shove in the unshoveable”?
And is there any real practical sense in looking for rare specimens on the market with a steel thickness of 3.5 mm instead of the usual 2.4 mm, or is it enough to glue vibration insulation to eliminate the sound of water?

Good day, Vladislav! Yes, you are right, it will be difficult to insert such a bathtub. The fact is that its upper edge is not sharp, like that of a cast-iron bathtub, but has the shape of a rectangle, which, when lowered diagonally, will be longer than just the upper edge. For your sizes, we have the length of this diagonal: √(1800²+40²)=1800.44. Let's subtract the length of the bath -1800 from it and get 1800.44-1800 = 0.44 millimeters. Hmm..., probably, such an excess can be neglected; it probably fits into the measurement error. Here you have to hope for luck. Otherwise, you will have to remove a row of tiles from one end of the bathtub or cut a groove in the tile under the edge of the bathtub, which is very fine work, and not every specialist can do it.
I do not observe any fundamental difference in the thickness of the walls of the bathtub. A normal aerator on the mixer plays a much larger role. And yes, vibroisol is a completely appropriate thing.

Good afternoon Very informative article and just in time for me! I'm about to renovate my bathroom! Please tell me how to install an acrylic bathtub correctly: before laying the tiles or after? The biggest concern is the gap between the tiles and the bathtub. I don’t want it to turn yellow, I don’t want the corners either. What should I do? Thank you

Good afternoon, Natalia! It is better to place the tiles on the bathtub; this connection is more technologically advanced. Then this corner can be siliconized or grouted. If you want the corner to not lose its appearance longer, it is better to use a two-component epoxy-based grout.
I warn you that most acrylic bathtubs have negative slopes and need to be raised to prevent water from stagnating in them.

Add another error. I brought a 50mm pipe out of the wall under the drain exactly in the center of the bathtub, where the drain hole is near the bathtub. I did not take into account that the siphon drains anywhere but into the wall, because the overflow interferes there. Now I will have to do the outline on the 45 degree corners. Moreover, all the decent siphons that I looked at do not allow you to connect to the drain in a straight line; they imply that the drain will be to the side, and not strictly in the center. And one more question. I have a 50mm 90-degree angle in the wall, followed by a 2.5-meter bed with a slope of 1.5, then a 135-degree tee and a riser. Otherwise it just won't fit. And towards the bathtub from this 90 degree angle I will have 5cm pipes, angle 45, 10cm pipes, angle 45, then a siphon (siphon outlet 50mm). Forecast? How bad will it be for water to drain through this entire structure? To redo it, you need to disassemble the gypsum board on the frame: (

Your slope is normal, the water will flow away well. There are a lot of angles, of course, but that’s okay. All the same, the U-shaped bathtub siphon has a worse throughput, and the flow rate will be determined by it. If you have a U-shaped siphon, and you want to maximize the rate of water drainage, then you need to get rid of the 90-degree angles, replacing them with two 45-degree angles.
Regarding the drainage system from the wall along the axis of the bathroom. Quite right, this is the wrong arrangement. The overflow, however, can always be turned a little to the side (the connecting tube allows you to do this), but in a straight line the siphon almost never gets into the sewer pipe and you have to do an equilibration study.
The article lists eleven errors, but in reality, of course, there are many more. I tried to write instructions for installing bathtubs - I ended up with more than 120 pages, with photographs and pictures, it’s true, but it’s still a lot. Although twenty years ago such instructions would have been very useful to me...

Hello, Stanislav. It is very fortunate for me that I found your very useful site. I have to install a shower stall with high sides (i.e., an acrylic bathtub below) in the bathroom. But here’s the problem: the height from the floor to the bottom of the sewer pipe (d=50) in the wall is 9.5 cm, and from the floor to the bottom of the bathtub is only 10.5 cm. That is. a very small height difference due to which there will be stagnation of water in the bath! What kind of solid supports should be used for the legs of the bathtub (there are 12 of them, the diameter of each support is 38mm)? What siphon and angles should I use for maximum drainage speed?

Greetings, Igor! Twelve legs is a lot. It is necessary to lift the tray, although there will be a gap between the screen and the floor. But, with a certain amount of intelligence, it can be posted mosaic tiles. The supports in your case can be either those described in the bonus sent to you, or in the form of polypropylene couplings of the appropriate diameter. Or cut a polypropylene pipe to the desired height of the stand. Try to raise the pallet to a height that is a multiple of the whole number of mosaic tiles.
It is best to use a siphon with a smooth curve, but it has a large height, which may be unacceptable in your case. Angles for draining - it is advisable to avoid 90 degrees - it is better to set two to forty-five.

Good afternoon. Thank you for your materials and experience, I highlighted a lot of useful things for myself. In a week I will be installing a Roca cast iron bathtub, which I have already purchased. The entire bathroom is already tiled. So I was wondering how to position it correctly so that it wouldn’t slip. I am considering the option with washers for the adjusting bolts, or brass plugs, as you suggest. It would be interesting to know if there are any other methods besides those indicated. Well, I would also be happy to read a selection of your useful tips.

I sent you a selection, Vadim, good evening!) Let the bathtub slide, it’s okay. It is only important, at the moment of alignment, to fix it with wedges between the walls. Then you can safely concrete.

Hello! Please tell me the solution to this problem. There is an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame. The bathroom is already tiled and the distance between the walls is approximately 90mm larger than the bathtub. In this case, the bathtub seems to be deformed by the “screw”. When it’s full, everything is fine, the legs are on the tiles, everything is level. If you drain the water, the bathtub begins to wobble and you can see the difference in its position relative to the seams of the tiles. I plan to close the gap and foam the filled bathtub on both sides. Will it hold?

I wouldn't recommend doing this. On the faucet side, you will then have to make a shelf out of tiles, this is extra work, and not very practical from the point of view of water drainage during a shower. It will be enough to fill the water and tighten the sides of the bathtub to the walls with powerful screws.
- Greetings! Sorry for the delay in response, there were technical reasons... The tap is at the end of the bathtub - no problem, as long as it is convenient for you. Quite beautiful.

Hello, please send me an email possible options linings for a cast iron bathtub. We are doing renovations, we have laid tiles and put a bathtub on it. But there is a fear that the bathtub will push through the tiles. Are you saying that you can put plugs from polypropylene pipes, and they will not slip on the tiles? Or is the bathtub so heavy that it won’t slide? Help me please!

Hello, Alena! Yes, the plugs will slide. This is convenient for installing a bathtub, but after installation the bathtub needs to be firmly fixed. I hope that you will slightly recess the edge of the bathtub into the wall so that the tiles fit right into the curve of the edge. In this case, after coating the gap with the required solution, the bathtub is securely walled up and no additional measures are required. In addition, a properly made shelf between the bathtub and the wall at the head will also additionally secure the bathtub. Just in case, I am sending you a description of the substrates, as well as a number of other useful repair tips. Good luck!

Hello, I'm going to change my cast iron bathtub to acrylic. A thin heating pipe runs under the side of the bathtub. Is it possible to allow the surface of the side of an acrylic bathtub to come into contact with the pipe? If not, what do you recommend? you are very good source similar information. Great article about 11 mistakes. I haven’t started the repairs, but I already foresaw the problems) Thanks in advance.

Thank you, Sergey, for your kind words! My opinion about the pipe is that it is better to provide a gap of at least 5mm so that the pipe does not touch the acrylic. Still, polymers are under the influence high temperatures age faster. In general, I would like to clarify what kind of pipe this is. I encountered something similar once, but that pipe was behind a false wall, and its role was to warm up the street wall to which the bathtub adjoined. We even considered the option of demolishing the false wall and leaving the pipe under the side of the bathtub, like yours. But then they decided that the wall above the bathtub would no longer be heated by convection, and condensation would very likely appear on it. Therefore, it was decided to leave the false wall.
As thermal insulation, you can wrap a K-flex tape or any other material around the pipe. suitable material. Even a cut electric corrugation of the required diameter will do.
>>>But you are right: for me it goes without saying that the mixer should be located “at the feet” (above the bathtub drain), but for an inexperienced reader this may not be so obvious.

So the shelf should be on the opposite side of the drain?