Laying parquet laying parquet boards. Laying parquet boards: proper organization and order of work

Many owners choose parquet boards as flooring. And this is quite understandable. This coating looks great in the interior. If the technology for laying parquet boards is followed, the floor will last long years. An undoubted advantage of the coating is its ease of maintenance. Many people think that laying parquet boards on their own is difficult. Later in the article we will figure out whether this is so.

Tools

Of course, laying parquet boards is carried out using special devices. It must be said that every owner has most of the tools. Cutting panels is best done with a jigsaw. If you don’t have this tool, then you can easily use a hacksaw with fine teeth (for metal). The parquet board is knocked down using a hammer. Its weight should be about 1 kg. A specially prepared piece of plastic acts as a tamping block. He enters standard kit for laying laminate or parquet. A plastic block is not as rigid as a wooden one. Thanks to this, chipping at the edges of the panels can be avoided. During the installation process, you will also need plastic restrictive wedges. They are necessary to fix the gap between the coating and the walls. These wedges can be made independently from wood. Another device included in the parquet installation kit is a metal bracket. With its help, the last panel is fixed. If there is no metal bracket, it can be replaced with a clamp. You will also need a tape measure, a level and a square.

Laying parquet boards: basic methods

Depending on the dimensions of the panels, one or another version of the covering flooring is used. Among the most popular are the following:

On the logs.
Using nails. The panels are nailed to subfloor made of wood.
Glue method.
Floating method. IN in this case The panels are connected using a special lock.

The latter option is considered the most popular today, since laying parquet boards in this case is convenient both in a small room and in a room large area. Flooring using the glue method is used less and less today. This is due to the greater labor intensity of the entire process. In this case, laying the panels requires perseverance from the master. Fixing with nails to a wooden subfloor is usually used for solid parquet. But it must be said that this type of panel is gradually disappearing from stores. When laying parquet on joists, it is necessary to arrange a distance between them of no more than 30-40 cm. This is not very economically profitable. That is why in 90% of cases today the floating flooring method is used. This option is considered ideal for those who intend to do the work themselves. In any case, regardless of the chosen method, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to prepare the base. It must be clean, level and dry.

Preparatory stage

Before laying the parquet board, it is kept for two to three days in the room where the work will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a backing under the panels. It can be cork or synthetic. Thanks to the backing, the parquet board will be protected from excess moisture. The strips of material must be glued together with tape at the joints. The more closely the parts fit together and the more thoroughly they are closed, the more airtight the base. Laying parquet boards with your own hands can be done using both parallel and diagonal methods. The selected option will not affect the performance characteristics of the coating. However, it should be remembered that diagonal laying significantly increases the consumption of parquet boards. It can range from 2 to 7%. As a rule, the diagonal method is used in those rooms where it is necessary to smooth out the effect of unsuccessful placement of furniture.

First row

Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay parquet boards. The first stage involves laying the 1st and 2nd rows. They should be located parallel to the light falling from the window. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, you should install wedges against the wall to provide clearance. The gap between the coating and the wall is at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to protect the panels from mechanical damage when changing temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The first two panels are pressed tightly against the spacer wedges.

Optimal distance between seams

Many beginners do not know how to properly lay parquet boards. Experienced experts recommend that when laying the second row, the panel closest to the wall should be sawed off to a length of at least 80 cm. It is considered ideal that the transverse seam in the first row would be located opposite the middle of the board of the second. However, in any case, a minimum run-up must be maintained. The transverse seams of parallel rows should be located at a distance of at least half a meter from each other. Otherwise, the connections will be weak.

Second row

Many craftsmen find the floating method very convenient. If there are any errors during the installation process, everything can be corrected. The panel from the second row must be inserted into the groove of the first. To do this, the board is tilted at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. The panel snaps into place, but is not fixed. The second board is inserted in the same way. It also snaps and is tapped to the first one. After the panels are tightly joined, they are fixed in the groove of the first row. To completely eliminate the seam, the boards are beaten using timber. Using this method, the covering is laid over the entire floor.

The last row

Many, especially beginners, craftsmen may have some difficulties at the final stage of flooring. By following these recommendations, you can make your work much easier. First of all, you should measure the distance from the wall to the front last row. The width of the panel that will complete the flooring should be 1 cm less than the obtained value. This ensures the necessary compensation gap. In the groove of the penultimate row it is necessary to cut off the locking edge. After this, the finishing boards are inserted. For a tight insertion, a mounting paw or clamp is used.

Shutdown

The final stage is the installation of skirting boards. The wedges must first be removed from the expansion gap. The baseboards are attached exclusively to the wall surface. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it is not pressed tightly against the parquet. The width of the plinth should be enough to hide the expansion gap.

Diagonal method

Laying parquet using this method is carried out in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the panels are not located straight, but at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the axis of the room. It is best to determine the direction of the flooring while standing with your back to the doors. This option is not suitable for a rectangular narrow room, as it will look very colorful.

Finishing

Previously, traditionally, after laying parquet, it was sanded. This made it possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. For modern parquet flooring this procedure is not required. But during operation, in some cases it becomes necessary to refresh the surface. To do this, scraping is carried out to a depth of no more than 0.5 mm and additional coating with several layers of varnish. A three-layer parquet board is tidied up using a sander belt type. Powerful drum units are not suitable for this work. This is due to the fact that they create quite strong vibration, which, in turn, negatively affects the internal structure of the coating. Sanding begins with 40-grit sandpaper. The process is completed with 150-grit abrasive. The completion of the work can be checked by running your hand across the floor. If there are no roughnesses, then grinding is complete.

Among the variety of modern floor coverings, parquet boards occupy a special place. The floors created with its help give the room nobility and reflect the good taste of the owners. Parquet has always been expensive material, the installation of which required high skills and craftsmanship, but with the development of wood processing technologies, the installation of parquet boards became much easier. Today, all installation work can be done independently, and to successfully complete it, you will only need skills in handling tools and knowledge of the technology for laying parquet boards.

Laying parquet boards can be done independently; the technology is not so complicated

Choosing a parquet board

Parquet boards are produced in several variations

Today, the buyer can choose from two types of parquet boards: solid and multilayer. The main difference between them is the production method. Thus, for the production of massive parquet boards they are used whole pieces wood, both coniferous and hardwood. The groove and ridge at the ends of the board act as fastening elements. The price of such a board is quite high, since its production requires big piece valuable wood.

Multilayer parquet board consists of two or three layers glued together wooden planks. To impart strength, each layer is laid at right angles to the previous one, and to create unique performance characteristics, different kinds wood The top layer of lamellas is made of hardwood. For the second layer, soft wood species are used. For the third layer, plywood or previously rejected spruce or pine slats up to 4 mm thick are used. The price of multilayer parquet boards is somewhat lower, since its production requires smaller pieces of wood.

Types of parquet boards depending on the number of planks

Also, parquet boards differ in the number of rows of planks: single lane, two-lane, three- And four-lane. The three-strip board is the most popular, as it is most closely stylized as parquet and is affordable. Four-strip parquet board is the cheapest - the narrowest lamellas are used in its production, but this type of board allows you to implement various design ideas due to the contrasting combination of lamellas. Single-strip and double-strip parquet boards are the most expensive. Their production requires the widest lamellas of valuable wood. Thanks to this, the room looks the most rich and solemn.

The thickness of the parquet board ranges from 7 mm to 22 mm. This parameter determines how the board will be laid. Thus, parquet boards up to 20 mm thick should be laid only on a solid surface, and a 22 mm thick board can be laid directly on the joists. In addition, the thickness of the board affects the heat, sound and noise insulation of the room.

Laying parquet boards: video instructions

Technology of laying parquet boards

Despite the fact that laying parquet boards with your own hands is quite simple, you can ruin the floor covering if you do not follow a certain installation technology. In order for the parquet board to serve for a long time, you must adhere to the following rules:

high-quality prepared base. Preparation consists of creating a strong, flat surface without deep drops and cracks. A small difference of 2 mm per 1 linear meter is allowed;
a certain level of humidity. Despite the development modern technologies in the field of protecting wood from moisture, laying parquet boards in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet or other rooms with high humidity levels is not recommended;
Before laying, the parquet board must “get used” to the microclimate of the room. To ensure that after all work is completed, the surface retains its integrity and does not warp, the parquet board should be left indoors for 48 hours after purchase and delivery;
During installation, you must adhere to certain temperature regime and humidity levels. The temperature should not be lower than +18 °C, and the humidity 35 – 65%;
presence of hydro- and thermal insulation. Since the parquet board is exposed to temperature and moisture, it must be additionally insulated. To do this, a substrate is laid, consisting of a layer of waterproofing and thermal insulation;
a certain laying direction. To make the joints of parquet board panels less noticeable, it should be laid in the direction of the light rays;
If the rooms where the parquet boards will be laid have a “warm floor” system, it is necessary to create a separate parquet board floor covering for each room. This is due to the fact that the temperature in each room is different and can fluctuate significantly.

Preparing the base

Before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory work. This applies primarily to the base on which the installation will be carried out. The installation of the parquet board itself can be done on a concrete or wooden base, the main thing is that it is strong and level. Therefore, if the floors in the house are created from scratch, they must be made taking into account the future installation of parquet boards. If old floors serve as the base, they will have to be completely inspected and, if necessary, repaired.

Preparing the wooden base

If you plan to install on a previously used wooden base, then you will have to do following works. First of all, remove the old floor covering and make sure that the wooden floor does not fall anywhere, does not creak, there are no large differences between the boards, and all structural elements are firmly fixed. If everything is in order, then you can start laying the parquet boards. Otherwise you will have to work hard. In the case where the wooden floor is strong, but the floorboards have dried out over time, and large differences in height have appeared between them, the floor can simply be scraped or leveled with PVA-based putty. If, upon inspection of the floor, it was revealed that the floorboards are loose and poorly secured, then they will have to be secured with self-tapping screws to the joists, and the surface will have to be scraped or puttied. Repairing damaged joists will be the most time-consuming and difficult. To do this you will have to completely disassemble the structure. wooden floor. If the logs have sagged in places, they should be raised by placing a block or wood chip under them. But if one or more joists are rotten, you will have to completely replace them. It is necessary to pay special attention to the level of the logs; they must all be strictly horizontal and in the same plane. As soon as the joists are repaired, you need to reassemble the entire wooden floor structure and begin laying the parquet boards.

Preparing the concrete base

The work required to prepare a concrete base is much less and simpler. First of all, we remove the old floor covering and check the floor for cracks, unevenness and breaks. If the floor is in good condition and has small cracks or uneven areas, then it can be primed and a self-leveling screed poured on top. After it has completely dried, you can begin laying the parquet board. In case concrete base crumbled and in some places turned into dust, you will have to completely remove the old screed using a hammer drill and lay it again, and only after it has completely dried, start laying the parquet board.

How to lay a parquet board

Installation of parquet boards can be done in several ways. There are only three of them: floating, adhesive and using fasteners. It’s worth noting right away that the first two installation options require the creation of a continuous base on which the parquet board will be laid. These installation methods are suitable for panels of any thickness and for any type of base. Installation of parquet boards using fasteners is carried out directly on logs or a wooden base. Moreover, only parquet boards with a thickness of 20–22 mm can be laid on the logs. To know how to properly lay parquet boards, you need to familiarize yourself with each of these methods in more detail.

Floating installation method

The floating method of laying parquet boards is considered the simplest

This installation method is the simplest, fastest and requires minimal labor. It consists of laying parquet boards on a substrate and connecting the panels together into a lock. To install parquet boards this way, you must do the following:

We lay a layer of waterproofing on the previously prepared base. Suitable for this polyethylene film 200 microns thick. To obtain a solid surface, we overlap the film sheets with an overlap of 15–20 cm and glue them together using tape. We also make an overlap on the walls of 10 - 15 cm;

You can use cork or polyethylene foam as a backing.

Place the second layer of the film on the backing. This can be cork, polystyrene foam or polyethylene foam. We lay the cork and polystyrene foam end-to-end, and the polyethylene foam overlapping. We glue all joints with tape;

Important! Expanded polystyrene mats should be laid staggered. This will create a stronger and more stable surface.

Immediately before installation, we carry out small calculations of the number of rows of parquet boards. This must be done so that if the last row has to be trimmed, its width is 5 cm or more. If it is less, then we cut the first and last rows and make them the same width;

We connect the panels of the first row to each other and lay them with a tenon against the wall. In order for the parquet board to fit tightly to the wall, the tenon must be cut off in advance;
In order to avoid swelling and damage to the parquet board due to changes in seasonal humidity levels, a gap of 10 - 15 mm must be left between the wall and the board. And to preserve it, we drive in special pegs;
To create a durable floor covering from a parquet board, it must be laid “staggered”. Therefore, we begin laying the second row with a panel whose length is 2/3 of the normal one;
the panels of the second row are first connected to each other, and then the entire row is moved towards the first, after which it is connected to it;

We finish the parquet board with a hammer through a wooden block

Important! All work on finishing the panels and creating a complete surface is carried out by hammering the panels into place with a hammer through a wooden block.

We begin laying the third row with a panel whose length is 1/3 of the normal one;
We start the fourth row with a whole panel of parquet boards. Laying all remaining rows is carried out in the same way as the first four rows;

Important! The last panel in each row should be finished using a hammer and clamp.

The plinth should hide the gap between the wall and the first row of parquet boards

as soon as the last parquet board is laid, remove the bursting pegs and install the plinth;
We attach the baseboard to clamps that are attached to the wall. We place the first clamps with an indentation of 15 - 20 cm from the corner, the rest are installed in increments of 40 - 50 cm.

In the process of laying parquet boards, you will have to face some installation difficulties near the heating riser or water supply pipes, as well as the doorway. To make the flooring in these places look perfect, you need to carefully trim the parquet boards. For the doorway, it will be enough to outline and make an accurate rectangular cutout. For laying parquet boards near pipes, things are a little more complicated. It is necessary to mark the position of the pipes on the board, and then drill holes 1 - 2 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes. Now we cut off part of the panel strictly in the center of the holes. We put the panels in place, place the cut piece behind the pipes and also put it in place. For additional fixation, apply glue to the joints of the cut part. To give an aesthetic appearance around the pipes, we install special plugs in the same color as the parquet.

Glue installation method

The adhesive method of laying parquet boards creates more monolithic structure, but dismantling such a floor is extremely difficult

In this installation method, the same sequence of actions is used as in the floating one. But there are a number of significant differences:

When laying on glue, waterproof plywood acts as a substrate. We lay it in rows “staggered”, and additionally attach the plywood itself to the base using pneumatic nails or self-tapping screws;
Apply the glue to the surface of the base and the parquet board using a notched trowel. We also fill the grooves at the end of the panels with glue. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

The disadvantages of this fastening method include increased labor costs and some difficulty in performing the work. Also, if there is a need to replace one or more parquet panels, you will have to face certain difficulties.

Installation using fasteners

The method using fasteners is used for laying on joists

All work is also carried out by analogy with the “floating” installation method. The significant differences are as follows:

this method is most often used for solid parquet boards and multi-layer boards 20 mm thick;
laying with fasteners is used when solid parquet boards are laid directly on joists or a solid wooden base;
insulation and waterproofing are carried out at the stage of installing the logs;
To secure the parquet board, you need to hammer a nail into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees or screw in a self-tapping screw.

Important! When laying on joists, it is necessary to ensure that the panel joints run exactly in the middle of the joists. Self-tapping screws or nails should be 2 - 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the board.

Regardless of how the parquet board is laid, all work must be carried out carefully, adhering to the technology and manufacturer’s recommendations. Only in this case can you get a truly reliable and beautiful parquet flooring.

Basic methods of laying parquet boards

Parquet boards are laid using either the floating floor method or the method of rigidly attaching the board to the base.

1. Floating floor method consists of connecting parquet boards to each other without fixing them to the base of the floor. The boards are assembled into a single layer, which lies freely on the backing - a special compensating material located between the base and the parquet floor. This method is the most common, but like any other method it has its strengths and weaknesses.

Main advantages:

high speed of the assembly process - laying 30 m2 of boards takes no more than one day;

minimization of costs - the cost of the finished floor consists only of the cost of the board, underlay and parquet work;

lower requirements for the professionalism of the layer - laying the boards can be carried out even on our own;

opportunity reuse boards - glueless connection allows you to partially or completely dismantle the parquet floor and reinstall it.

Main disadvantages:

insufficient reliability - mobility of the parquet layer over time can lead to deformation of the locking joint and damage to the integrity of the structure;

When restoring parquet, it will be almost impossible to properly sand its surface. The absence of a rigid attachment to the base will not allow this to be done evenly over the entire area;

possible discomfort during operation - movements of a floating floor in the vertical plane under short-term loads lead to the sound of steps characteristic of a floating floor and, over time, to the appearance of a creaking sound.

2. Method of rigid attachment to the base involves gluing each parquet board to a specially prepared subfloor. While drying adhesive composition the boards are additionally fixed with parquet nails or staples to enhance the strength of the entire structure. This method also has its advantages and disadvantages.

Main advantages:

high reliability of the design - the glued structure of the “parquet cake” will give additional reliability and durability to the floor;

good repairability - the structural integrity of the parquet floor will allow for high-quality repair of its surface;

high level comfort - the appearance of creaking or loud footsteps when walking on the floor is almost completely eliminated.

Main disadvantages:

high demands on the professionalism of the installer - installation of parquet boards by non-professionals will significantly increase the risk of a failed result;

higher level of costs - will need to be purchased Additional materials and pay for the services of professional parquet floorers;

time-consuming - layer-by-layer installation technology will require significantly more time than assembling a floor using a floating method;

thickness of the “parquet cake” - an additional layer of plywood will increase the height of the parquet floor.

Preparatory stage of work

Before starting the main stage of work, a number of important preparatory activities should be carried out.

1. Preparing the base

Requirements for the base for laying boards in a floating manner. Old wooden, tile or stone floors, a base made of concrete or self-leveling mixtures, etc. can be used as a base for parquet boards. Textile coverings (carpet, linoleum, carpet) are not suitable as a base material. Regardless of the type of base used, it must be level, dry, durable and clean. The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of the upcoming installation, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The clearance between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled or sanded in accordance with the specified requirements. The moisture content in a concrete or sand-cement base should not exceed 2%. Heated floors should be used as a base with extreme caution. The heating temperature of the base surface should in no case exceed +27 °C. Fluctuations in floor temperature during the day should remain within 5 °C. It is not recommended to lay parquet boards made of wood species that are especially sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature, such as beech, maple, olive or wenge, on heated floors.

Requirements for the base for laying boards using the rigid fastening method. Just like for a floating floor, the base for rigid fastening of the parquet board must be dry, level, clean and durable. In addition, it should be as suitable as possible for complete surface gluing of parquet and be able to reliably hold nails or screws inside it. The ideal base is moisture-resistant plywood, comparable in thickness to parquet boards. Plywood, in turn, must also be securely attached to a wooden or concrete base using glue and self-tapping screws. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with a technological gap of 5 mm wide between the sheets. Attention! The use of “warm floor” systems under such a foundation is unacceptable.

2. Layout diagram

Before starting work, you need to make a choice laying directions parquet boards in every room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of daylight falling into the room. In elongated rooms, it is recommended to lay parquet boards in the longitudinal direction (material waste will be 3-5%). The rooms are complicated geometric shape you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%). If the base is an old wooden floor, the parquet should be laid across the boards of this floor. Premises with in different directions laying must be separated by expansion joints, which are then closed with overhead thresholds.

3. Preparing materials and tools for work

Minimum set of tools. To lay parquet boards you will need the following tools: a saw with a thin blade, a hammer, sharp knife, marking square, drill, chisel, tape measure, pencil, wooden or plastic striker (at least 30 cm long with straight edges), wooden wedges, spatula and mounting paw.

Preparing the board and related materials for use. Before starting work, prepare the parquet board for installation. It is recommended to keep unopened packages of parquet boards in the room where they will be installed for at least 3-5 days to better adapt the boards to the microclimate of the room. Parquet packs should only be opened as work progresses. Before laying the boards, you need to make sure that they have no defects. If a damaged board is found, it can be replaced with a board without flaws by contacting the seller, or used at the beginning or end of a row during the installation process. The room in which installation will be carried out must be well lit and have optimal temperature (18-24 ° C) and air humidity (40-60%). Don't forget to prepare everything for work: the substrate and, if necessary, glue, plywood, hardware, rags for removing excess glue.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards using the floating method

Before starting work, be sure to read the installation manual and operating rules for parquet boards drawn up by its manufacturer. Below are only general recommendations on laying parquet boards, and also lists typical mistakes that are performed by inexperienced craftsmen during installation work.

1. Brief step-by-step instruction floating installation

First of all, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how many rows of boards will be needed. If the width of the last row is less than 40 mm, cut the boards of the first row with a saw, reducing their width.

Spread the underlay on the base of the floor, if necessary, fastening adjacent sheets of material with adhesive tape so that they do not bend during installation.

Start laying from left to right (Fig. 1), from the solid wall of the room, placing the first board with the longitudinal tenon to the wall. The distance of 7-10 mm between the boards and the wall must be adjusted using wedges.

Install the next board with the short side facing the previous board. Connect the boards to each other tenon into groove (Fig. 2). Continue laying in this way until the end of the first row.

Use a saw to cut last board row in size, taking into account the expansion joint, and lay it down.

Start the next row (Fig. 5) with a piece cut from the last board laid. Adjacent boards should overlap each other by at least 30-50 cm (Fig. 3). For a tight connection, it is necessary to lightly knock adjacent boards together using a hammer and a hammer (Fig. 8). Attention! Do not use cutting boards as a support. Continue assembling the parquet board until you reach the last row.

The last row. Measure the width of the last row at several points (including the expansion joint), mark a cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Lay the boards down and press them firmly into place, for example using a jig. Place between the wall and the mounting foot protective gasket so as not to damage the wall. Install spacer wedges.

Even after studying the instructions for laying parquet boards, many make typical mistakes and miscalculations, namely:

lay the parquet board on a poorly prepared base;

carry out installation work in a room with improper temperature and humidity conditions;

are not satisfied with the technological seam at the border of the board with other boards floor coverings and when approaching vertical obstacles (walls, columns, built-in furniture);

when laying, use cutting boards of smaller than acceptable sizes;

leave the distance between the end joints of boards in adjacent rows less than 30 cm;

loosely connect the docking joint (tenon and groove) of the board.

Important points that must be taken into account when laying parquet boards using the method of rigid attachment to the base

1. Brief step-by-step installation instructions with gluing to the base

Once again, make sure the readiness and quality of the base, materials and tools for laying the board in this way.

Assemble the parquet boards in the same order as for assembling the boards using the floating method, first applying a layer of glue to the base or back of the board.

Press each glued board firmly to the base using nails or a heavy weight. Do not remove the load until the glue has completely dried.

Avoid contact of adhesives with oiled or varnished surfaces. Immediately remove excess glue protruding onto the surface with a damp cloth, preventing it from drying out.

Do not subject the floor to heavy loads in the first few hours after installation until the adhesive has completely dried.

2. Main mistakes during installation work

The method of rigid attachment to the base requires much more experience in carrying out parquet work. But even professional parquet floorers sometimes make mistakes:

do not clean the base from dust and dirt, which leads to deterioration in the quality of gluing;

use low-quality, improperly prepared or unsuitable glue;

do not control glue consumption;

they do not press the boards tightly enough to the base, leaving “air pockets” between them;

do not remove glue residues from the surface of the board in a timely manner.

Summary

At the beginning of our article, we asked ourselves: what do you need to know and be able to do in order to get a beautiful, reliable and durable floor from a parquet board. It's time to take stock.

Laying parquet boards is a labor-intensive and responsible process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Following the following rules will help you achieve success in this difficult task.

Choose the appropriate technology for laying parquet boards.

Purchase high-quality materials necessary for installation.

Prepare the base correctly.

Determine the laying direction.

Start laying parquet boards only after completing all wet work.

Entrust the execution of all the above points to professionals.

Even high-quality material can easily be ruined by unprofessional installation. Therefore, before starting work, it is important to learn how to lay parquet boards. Wood is quite demanding different conditions operation. High humidity and unfavorable temperatures negatively affect the material.

Parquet features

In a dry room, parquet loses its natural moisture and begins to dry out. The coating loses its shape, becomes deformed, and cracks form in it. . At high humidity, the coating absorbs excess, swells, and individual planks bend. So material reacts to various conditions operation. The best option It is considered when the humidity in the room is 40-60% (at a temperature of +18-24ºС). In the same conditions, it is recommended to lay the parquet board yourself. In winter, installation should be carried out during operation heating systems(it is better to use humidifiers).

More than 100 types of wood are used in the production of parquet. Therefore, the initial quality of the products is completely different. It is recommended to purchase parquet exclusively from companies that themselves install floating parquet boards and use their own material for this. The most popular is the three-layer type of coating:

the top (front) layer is 1-6 mm thick, which must be covered with varnish or special oil (the thicker one can withstand a greater number of sandings);
the middle one is often formed from short slices of coniferous wood, and less often created from special moisture-resistant plywood; it usually contains all the elements with which the parquet strips are connected to each other;
the lower one (its thickness is 2 mm) is made of pine or spruce plywood; it prevents bending and deformation of the material.

For example, it is planned to lay parquet boards so that the surface looks like a solid flooring. Then you should choose products with a solid top layer, where the planks are glued in the “herringbone”, “braid”, “square”, “deck” type.

Laying options

Before starting work, you should decide on the best way to lay the parquet board. The choice of method is based on the following factors:

dimensions, proportions of the room, level of illumination;
the material from which the parquet is made;
color of the coating, presence of varnish on it;
interior style.

There are the following styling options:

To create unique patterns on the floor, you can combine various options styling

Types of bases for parquet boards

When deciding how to properly lay parquet boards, you need to consider type of base material. The technology for installing the coating depends on this; the subfloor, screed, or joists are attached. To determine how to lay parquet, you can use the recommendations for certain types of buildings:

in brick (panel) buildings with concrete (reinforced concrete) floors, a screed is first installed;
in wooden (frame) buildings with wooden floors ( metal beams), subfloors are equipped (laid on joists);
In cottages and other private homes, the choice of parquet installation method depends on the type of flooring material.

On video: choosing a parquet board based on the type of base.

Laying methods

Today, two methods of laying parquet are common:

adhesive, which involves fixing elements using glue;
floating.

The first method is to place the boards on following types reasons:

cement-sand floor, concrete;
plaster screed;
ground level.

You should take into account the manufacturer's recommendations, which contain step-by-step instructions. Laying parquet boards with your own hands is done in stages:

the base is prepared, the level is checked, cleaned of dust and treated with a synthetic primer;
glue is applied to the area to glue the planks evenly within 10 minutes;
the first two boxes of parquet boards are laid out;
the first plank should be longer than wide;
the second is tapped to the first (a special block is used);
the cut part of the last board in a row should be used immediately when starting the next one;
an expansion gap of 0.06-0.12 cm must be left to the wall, where small wedges or spacers should be inserted;
When several rows are glued, you need to carefully check that there are no gaps left.

Floating parquet installation is divided into two types:

using glue when the boards are glued together;
“lock” (no glue is used), and work (“turn and click”, “blow and click”) is completed faster.

Before assembling the parquet using the second method, you should lay the underlay. It performs a number of important functions:

separates material from the floor;
evens out minor unevenness in the base, allowing the coating to float softly;
serves as additional waterproofing and insulation;
is a shock-absorbing layer;
does not allow the material to slide along the base when the temperature changes.

You can easily install parquet boards on the substrate with your own hands:

The process should begin from the left corner of the room, the “latch side” is located towards the wall;
the next plank is laid at an angle on the edge of the previous one;
if the edge board that is adjacent to the wall has a groove, then it must be cut off;
the next row begins with the remainder of the previous one, if the cut part is less than 0.30 m, then new board cut in half;
When assembling parquet at the threshold, you need to check whether the doors open easily; if necessary, they should be trimmed.

To tightly join the boards together, you need to use a wooden (rubber) hammer, which can only be lightly tapped. If this installation method is used, then it is enough to simply dismantle the parquet board. For fairly large areas, this laying method is rarely used. The overall integrity of the coating is compromised. Floating laid the floor may creak or bend. Therefore, parquet in halls can only be glued.

Parquet on plywood

Laying parquet on plywood according to the technology requires the presence of the following layers:

the base is a concrete floor;
logs are installed on it;
waterproof plywood is laid on top in two layers;
parquet glue is applied;
parquet is glued;
The boards are coated with three layers (putty, primer, varnish).

High-quality parquet not only looks impressive, but also lasts longer.

How to lay parquet boards (3 videos)

Installing parquet boards yourself is quite acceptable if you strictly follow the algorithm of actions according to the chosen type of installation, choose the right materials and fasteners, and take the time to prepare the surface. What methods of installing boards exist and what are the features of each of them? More on this below.

Armed with simple knowledge, almost anyone can lay a parquet board on their own.

The prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when the Swedish company Gustav Chers found a way to replace expensive piece parquet practically not inferior to its analogue at a budget price.

The first board consisted of two layers. The presence of a number of shortcomings did not allow the authors of the product to modernize it in the near future. But just five years later, another Swedish manufacturer, Tarkett, launched the world's first three-layer parquet board on the market. Today the material is presented practically unchanged and is in great demand among consumers.

Each layer of parquet board is designed for specific purposes, which together makes this material durable and wear-resistant

Production of parquet boards with oil or varnish coating opens up the opportunity for people with average incomes to afford floor finishing natural wood within budget. It is noteworthy that you can lay parquet boards with your own hands, quickly and without violating technology. During operation, such a floor can be easily repaired by replacing individual sections.

The material is presented in a wide range in the most different colors and shades, with a variety of textures and parameters.

Design features of the board: what does it consist of?

New generation parquet boards - practical three-layer shield from natural wood species with a length from 2000 to 2600 mm, a thickness from 13 to 15 mm and a width from 139 to 210 mm. Parameters vary depending on the manufacturer. For the finishing layer, varnish or oil mixtures are used.

The design of the board is the bottom layer, which plays the role of a stabilizer, the middle and so-called working layer - upper layer. Each of them plays a role.

The bottom one is made of spruce veneer, usually 2 to 4 mm thick, designed to stabilize the boards and prevent them from deforming. The middle layer with a thickness of up to 8 mm is made of pine planks with a width of up to 30 mm, laid out along the width of the board.

The front top layer is lamellas made of practical expensive wood with a thickness of up to 5 mm, laid along the length of the board, fixed to the surface of the middle layer with glue. It is the top layer that is responsible for appearance boards, recreating the structure of wood with a certain pattern on the surface.

The working layer must be sanded and additionally treated with oil or varnish mixtures. Then, during use, the parquet board can be sanded again at least three times with the varnish or oil coating renewed.

Laying parquet boards is much easier and faster than regular parquet, due to its design features

The wood fibers of the layers bonded together are located perpendicular to each other. This fastening option helps prevent floor deformation under the influence of temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity.

It is not difficult to independently assemble parquet based on parquet boards, since the material is additionally equipped with a tongue-and-groove locking system. The top layer strips - lamellas, depending on the type of product, may have different variants location.

What styling options are used?

Before you begin preparing for installation, you need to decide what the installation technology will be, taking into account the type of base, the characteristics of the material (structure and parameters). There are three options for attaching dies:

on glue;
mechanically;
"floating" method.

Each option has its own characteristics. The so-called “floating” method with a tongue-and-groove system is considered the most common. Laminate flooring is also installed using a similar scheme. It will be relevant only in cases where the thickness of the die does not exceed 14 mm.

The main advantage of this mounting option is that after installation the board will not need additional processing and can be used immediately after the varnish or oil mixture has dried on the floor surface. In addition, laying parquet boards in this way is not difficult and can be done even by people without experience.

Option for laying parquet boards with glue on a concrete base

So-called glue method involves fastening the covering with glue and simultaneously gluing the boards together. This option is convenient to use when the thickness of the dies is more than 14 mm. Its disadvantage is the labor intensity of the work and the cost of high-quality glue.

The mechanical fastening option involves the use of self-tapping screws. The fasteners are driven into the groove at a certain angle. This installation option is appropriate when using boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more with a rough base made of wood or joists.

How to properly prepare the base?

You need to understand that step-by-step instructions for installing parquet boards will differ depending on the type of subfloor. Preparation of the floor for installation of wooden covering includes:

recovery;
adjustment;
cleaning

All types of work are an important stage in the installation of parquet boards, therefore they must be carried out with maximum responsibility.

You should not neglect even such simple operations as routine floor cleaning; this may affect the evenness and durability of the parquet flooring

How to prepare a wooden floor?

The technology for preparing a wooden floor depends on its condition. If the base is relatively new, with virtually no defects in the form of height differences, boards with mold or fungus, the restoration stage is skipped. The old floor will need to be repaired and damaged areas replaced as necessary.

But it won’t be possible to do without adjusting the base. Deflections of the boards will require strengthening, knots - grinding, cracks - sealing. Important point- checking the degree of surface curvature. To achieve a perfectly flat surface, you can treat the floor with sanding equipment or choose the option with putty. An obligatory stage is checking the joist structure, which involves dismantling the boards in one of the zones to analyze the condition of the subfloor.

Preparing a wood floor may take longer than laying hardwood floors, but it is essential to do so.

Concrete base - preparation features

If you plan to lay it yourself on a concrete base, then the preparation process will not be as complicated and time-consuming as in the case of a wooden floor.

First of all, a visual assessment of the surface is necessary. At this stage, cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle crumbling concrete are identified. Even small defects must be repaired, for example, using self-leveling mixtures. Before treatment, the surfaces are primed, or, as an option, the old coating is dismantled and a new, smooth and strong one is poured in.

Quick adjustments to small areas of the floor can be done using improvised means.

What do you need to know about underlayment for wood floors?

Regardless of the type of installation and type of base, it is correct to lay the parquet board on the backing layer. The material between the finishing and subfloor performs the following functions:

smoothes out minor unevenness;
increases the level of heat and soundproofing properties;
evenly distributes the load while using the floor;
prevents contact of moisture with the finishing wood coating;
extends the service life of the floor.

The most commonly used backing is polyethylene foam; duplex, cork, foil backing and polystyrene layers are also popular.

It is better to spend a little more time and money on installing a parquet floor underlay than to regret a possible unsuccessful result in the future

How to attach a board with glue: instructions

It should be noted that laying parquet boards is not easy. The method is one of the most labor-intensive, implying significant costs for materials for fastening. Most often, this installation option is chosen when it is necessary to install a floor in large rooms. However, in apartments and private houses, parquet boards can also be glued to the surface, not forgetting that adhesive mixtures quickly set in and correcting shortcomings during the work process will not be so easy.

High quality and correct styling glue means attaching the dies directly to the base. Apply glue to a screed made of concrete, plywood or a gypsum version of the subfloor. The base must be prepared - smooth and clean. Lay the board according to the following algorithm:

The first row of dies is laid out in the order in which they will lie, after which glue is applied to the subfloor, taking into account the area occupied by the first row.
The first plate is mounted with a gap from the wall (at least 6 mm).
The second board is attached to the first using a special tamping hammer. You need to fix the floor elements together quickly, given that the glue dries quickly and does not leave time for making adjustments.
The last board in the row is trimmed if necessary.
Lay the remaining rows of boards.
The last row is also trimmed if necessary.

As a rule, one- or two-component adhesive is used for installation. water based, which provides the required level of fixation of the material on the surface of the base.

Laying parquet boards on glue - correct solution for any room

How to lay parquet flooring using the floating method: steps

The simplest is do-it-yourself floating installation. The work will not take much time, is carried out dry and does not require additional elements fastenings You can begin installing the floor immediately after installing the substrate. And here again, there are two styling options:

on glue;
by using lock system.

In the first case, in addition to ready-made tongue-and-groove joints, glue is applied to the ends of the boards for additional fixation between them. Laying on the subfloor will look like this:

the boards are placed with the ridge side towards the wall, moving from the left corner of the room;
the second board is inserted into the lock until a characteristic click is heard and the end parts are pre-treated with glue;
If necessary, the boards of the last row and at the threshold are trimmed.

To achieve the tightest connection and reliability of the “floating” floor, the boards are hammered together with a special hammer.

Laying using the “floating” method in certain cases also takes place, especially since it is simpler and faster than others

Installation of parquet boards on joists - how to do it correctly?

To correctly lay the board on the joists, you need to have minimal experience working with parquet materials, since this method is quite complicated compared to those described above. Mount the material on the logs according to the following algorithm:

Check the moisture level of the logs and eliminate possible defects.
The logs are covered with a plywood backing. This stage is skipped only if the parquet board has a sufficient level of thickness. The step between the lags is small.
Parquet dies are fixed with glue or using a locking system on the backing layer.

The finished floor can be used almost immediately after installation.

If the house already has a foundation made of logs, there is no need to disassemble it, you can simply eliminate the defects, possibly strengthen it and begin laying the parquet floor

Parquet boards and “warm floors” system - is it possible?

Despite the high level of heat and sound insulation properties, the base for parquet boards can be arranged according to the “warm floors” principle. Additional thermal insulation will not hurt, especially since the material is quite harmoniously combined with the design of the heated floor.

Only possible variant underfloor heating for installation of parquet flooring - water-based. Electrical systems heating is excluded, since increased temperature in the floor area will lead to cracking as the boards of the interlocking system are used.

Laying of the material begins with the system turned off and cooled down to room temperature. After installing a wooden floor, it is connected no earlier than a week later, gradually increasing the temperature. It is important that the temperature over the entire surface of the floor is the same - this will prevent deformation of the coating.

Option for water-based underfloor heating under parquet boards

The final part of installing a parquet floor will be the installation of baseboards and thresholds. The threshold is necessary to disguise the transition between rooms; in addition, it will allow, regardless of what installation methods were chosen, to improve the aesthetic appearance of the room, protect joints from dust and dirt, extend the service life of the floor, and form complete picture interior

The threshold can be made of wood, laminate, metal, plastic and even cork.

To avoid damage to the parquet board, use only recommended equipment

In conclusion, a few useful tips. Considering that the material will have to be trimmed, it won’t hurt to know how to cut a parquet board so as not to damage its integrity. Perfect option- jigsaw. The tool will allow you to cut the board quickly and efficiently.

In order for the seams to finished floor made of wood are not so striking, they should be placed parallel to the light falling from the window. You can lay parquet boards not only on concrete or over plank floors, but also for non-standard base options - linoleum, carpet or tiles. In such cases, the underlay is not used, since the subfloor already has the necessary level of heat and sound insulation.