Evidence from the board drawing. How to make your own bee hive? To create a home for bees you need

If you don’t want to spend a lot of money on purchasing ready-made hives, or you are going to build something exclusive and suitable only for you, you can always try making a hive with your own hands. H The drawings in this article will help you with this!

Each beekeeper works according to his own methodology, gives preference to certain types of hives, uses various methods of maintaining an apiary, and knows the most suitable insulation options for his area and type of hives. It is very important to choose the right hive, which will turn beekeeping from a troublesome task into a fun hobby. You can familiarize yourself with the device and drawings of all known species hives, choose depending on your taste preferences and the preferences of your bees!

The Dadan-Blatt hive is the most popular. It’s very easy to make it yourself, the main thing is to know correct sizes and strictly adhere to what the pictures of hives say. To make it, it is best to choose wood species that do not contain resinous substances; willow or linden are suitable for this. In extreme cases, you can use pine or spruce boards. To make it you will need a universal woodworking machine, tools, glue and paint.

Preparation of material

The first step is to process the wood and cut it into boards 40 mm thick. They will be used to make the bottom and body of our hive. After this, grooves are cut out in the board, which will connect the walls of the evidence. To connect, you can use a “cutter”; the channels are cut 5x10 mm in the middle of the junction of the boards. Then you need to make thin planks with dimensions of 18x4 mm.

Walls and bottom

To connect the boards into one board, the cut grooves and strips need to be covered with PVA glue and connected tightly. At the exit you will receive 4 shields for the walls and 1 for the bottom. Using glue and nails, connect all the shields into a single structure, this will be Dadan’s single-hull hive. After that, cover it with paint or emulsion for wood processing. All that remains is to drill the tapholes and make the roof!

Roof

To make a roof and liner, you will need a board with a thickness of 15 mm. It will need to be covered with waterproof material and painted. Don't forget to drill some 15mm holes for ventilation.

Dimensions

• Internal - 450x450x320;
• folds for frames - 11x20;
• folds for cases and magazines - 10x14.
• side panels - 480x320x40;
• front shield - 530x320x40;
• rear shield - 530x320x40.

Blueprints

Boa

The Boa hive is compact, lightweight, easy to work with and transport. Bees feel great in this design, and produce no less products than in standard evidence. The Boa constrictor itself consists of a combined bottom, 10 bodies and a lid.

Making (Video)

Dimensions

• inner dimensions housing - 335x300x135 mm;
• front/back wall - 30 mm;
• side walls - 20 mm;
• slats for frames - 5 mm thick;
• upper/lower slats - 25 mm wide;
• side rails - 35 mm wide;
• cut on the top rail - 2x27 mm;
• frame height - 110 mm;
• frame width - 28 mm;
• roof lining boards - 8 mm in height and 20 mm in thickness;
• air cushion under the lid - 30 mm thick;
• bars for tying the bottom - 110 mm in height;
• side bars - 20 mm;
• front and rear bars - 30 mm;
• the tap hole in the front strapping bar is 335 mm in length;
• folds for frames - 15 mm.

Blueprints

Cebro

The Tsebro hive is a stationary double-walled multi-body hive that does not use double-sided insulation. Contains a socket housing for 14 frames, two magazine housings for 10 frames, 2 magazine housings for 5 frames. Dadan-Blatt frames with dimensions 430x300 are used. Magazine cases are placed in the Cebro hive through the side wall-door into the hive. This design is closed using a hinged lid. The lid itself is hinged on the back wall of the hive and can be equipped with a lock or lock.

At the bottom there is a valve or a hinged hatch, and also a removable tray, which makes it easier to collect waste. On the upper entrance there is a removable arrival verandah with windproof glass, which can be easily removed.

Drawing

Varre

Frame

The case is made elementary - it’s an ordinary box with 8 rulers. The distance between them is 12 mm. At the joints, the boards are connected directly, because the tenon/groove joint makes the body very rigid. Bars for making handles are used with dimensions of 300x20x20 mm. They are first glued and then fixed with 3 nails. Usually the upper edge of the handles is beveled to make it easier for rainwater to drain away.

Liner

A special feature of the Varre hive is the size of the roof cover. It should be 5 mm smaller than the body itself. This greatly simplifies the work of the beekeeper, since the roof can be removed very easily in this way. The gap is increased to 10 mm. Usually the liner is filled with moss, straw, leaves or shavings. Be sure to attach a canvas made of thick material to its bottom side to secure the contents.

Roof

Ventilation should be provided on the roof to diffuse sunlight. A covering cover is placed inside the liner. Roof boards should not exceed 20 mm in thickness.

Bottom

Bottom boards are also used with a thickness of 20 mm. Like the liner, it should be 2 mm narrower on all sides than the bodies themselves. This will protect from rain at the joints.

Blueprints

Pioneer

The Pioneer has only two walls - the side and the front. The front wall consists of nine glass windows and ten entrances (slotted). The side wall is equipped with guides for cassettes. There are 10 frames for each wall. These types of structures are used to support large families. Cassettes are equipped with double glazing and ventilation system. A special device allows you to open and close the tapholes. Beginning beekeepers are very pleased with this type of hive.

The hive drawings will help you become familiar with the dimensions of the parts.

Blueprints

Farrara

Farrara are multi-hull designs on low-wide frames. It has become widespread in many countries, although we know little about it. Because of large quantity frames and cases - it will be very expensive to produce such evidence. Its cost is its main drawback. The design of the hive is unique; it consists of four buildings (or more) with 12 frames each, a bottom, a roof and a roof.

The bee hive drawing will tell you the correct dimensions to follow.

Blueprints

Ruta

The peculiarities of the Ruth hive are that the extensions and the nesting body are the same in size. When making such evidence, be sure to use the drawings; the diagram of the unique hive of the Dadan-Blatt model will be useful; you just need to change the height of the nesting body. In order for the brood to develop normally, make two housings for it; due to the large free space, the queen will increase egg production. The diaphragm, which is placed between the bodies, helps to form layers. The upper part is used to accommodate the layering, the lower part is for the family.

Blueprints

Made from polystyrene foam

This is a very convenient option for hives both in manufacturing and for use. Making it yourself takes little time, does not require special skills and equipment, and is cheaper than making it from wood. Expanded polystyrene in the form of plates can be purchased at any hardware store. All you need is a pen, a ruler, a utility knife, Titan glue and a screwdriver with self-tapping screws. The manufacturing process is very simple: outline the blanks according to the drawings, cut them with a knife, glue them and secure them with self-tapping screws.

Blueprints

1-front wall; 4-back wall; 2,3 - side walls.

Alpine

The Alpine hive is equipped with buildings: from 3 to 6, their number depends on the time of year and on the strength of the families. You can initially make three buildings, and then add more as needed. Ulik has only one entrance and there are no dividing grilles or ventilation holes. The model for such evidence was...you won’t believe it...a hollow! The feeder is located on the ceiling and prevents condensation from forming. The insulating roof protects the bees from overheating. The Alpine hive is very easy to make, easy to work with, moreover, it is very cheap, and its frames show the highest occupancy rate due to their optimal dimensions.

Blueprints

Japanese

Such hives are very convenient and easy to manufacture. The design is very simple - several buildings with a height of one hundred to two hundred mm, and an internal diameter of up to 300 mm. Unlike conventional hives, this one does not require frames at all. The body houses a special cross that secures the honeycombs and prevents them from falling. Ulik is equipped with only a lower entrance.

Blueprints

Sun lounger

The hive bed in the classic version with 20 frames consists of a body, a large lid, two compartments, and a magazine. In appearance it resembles an oblong box; its bottom and roof are very dense. You can buy such a model in a store, make it to order, or make it yourself. You can find information about the detailed production of such evidence models on our website in thematic articles, but for now we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the drawings.

Blueprints

Ukrainian

The Ukrainian lounger consists of a bottom, which is integral with the body, the body itself with a capacity of 20 frames, a roof and the frame itself. Each wall of the case is 40 mm thick. Details of the manufacture of the walls and parts of such a lounger are discussed on our website. You can see the dimensions in the picture.

Blueprints

Multihull

The main advantages of multi-body structures are ease of use, ease of manufacture, low price and high result. The bees feel comfortable in them and do not lack free space. Depending on the time of year, you can remove or add buildings. The entire evidence consists of a series of housings, a roof, a detachable bottom, a stand, a dividing grid and entrance liners. There are also many other small details that help make the beekeeper’s work easier.

Drawing

Double-hull

As the name suggests, this type of evidence consists of two spacious buildings. The double-hull unit is perfect for places where the main bribe during honey collection is very high. Strong bee colonies are usually placed in these two-hull hives, since weak ones will not take root in it, or will produce very little bee products. Typically, such hives have a removable bottom to make it easier to maintain. Very often the tapholes are located only on the lower compartment. The lid is made flat and thin.

Blueprints

Sixteen frame

The sixteen-frame model differs only...yes, in the presence additional framework. They are very convenient for novice beekeepers, as they allow you to grow a fairly strong colony. The store extension contains honey. The thickness of the front and rear walls is 40 mm, the bottom and side walls are 30 mm. There are two entrances. All measurements and details can be found in the pictures.

Blueprints

Fourteen frame/ twelve frame/ ten frame

Fourteen-, twelve- and ten-frame evidence differ in the number of frames; in their structure they are almost identical. Some people simply find it more convenient to work with a large number of frames at their disposal, others are used to fewer. Choose for yourself!

Blueprints

14-frame

12-frame

Kuznetsov's universal hive

This universal Kuznetsov hive includes such parts as: a body, which consists of sequentially installed elements - a base (2), a body (1, 3, 11) with a bottom (4) and a tray (5), a mesh for the main body (10) and cover (12). The bottom housing is equipped with a dust collector (6); it is located above the mesh and consists of many plates attached in pairs, which are installed at an angle to the horizontal. In cross section it has a herringbone shape. Very useful for collecting pollen by bees.

Blueprints

Ozerova

The Ozerov evidence includes three buildings, as well as two half-frame extensions. The lower body is divided into two compartments using a partition. Each compartment has two entrances - bottom and top. The case is placed on a bottom stand, which is also divided into two sections by a blank partition. Each section of the lower body can accommodate up to 8 frames with dimensions of 435x300 mm. The second body is divided into two halves, each of which has its own entrance - on the side or in front. There are no partitions in the third building. In addition, they also make two extensions. Instead of extensions, a fourth body is sometimes made.

Blueprints

Glazova

It is made in the form of a container. In Glazov’s devices of this kind, the bee colony very quickly increases its strength, the bees bring a large amount of pollen and nectar, and the evidence allows them to accommodate it all. Unfortunately, such models are very inconvenient to transport, they weigh too much, and it’s difficult to make them yourself.

Blueprints

Video

Home >> Livestock >> Beekeeping

hive- an artificial dwelling that a person prepares for bees. Depending on the system, one or more beekeepers may live in the same hive.

Bee Bee Methods different systems somewhat different.

The nest of the bee family consists of a vertical double-sided clock. The life of a family of bees is inextricably linked to the satin they build from wax, which is intended for storing food supplies and breeding breeding animals. Each honeycomb consists of a common vertical medium, and hexagonal cells extend from both sides. The layers of honeycomb in a nest are always vertical.

The thickness of the honeycomb intended for breeding is 24-25 mm. The width of the cages designed to remove worker bees is on average 5.42 mm and the depth is 11-12 mm. Stem cells for an average diameter of 6.5 mm. The wall thickness in the cell is 73 ± 2 µm. During the honey bee process, 10 to 12 mm of free space (“street”) is left.

Cellular watches have a regular hexagon in the form of a graph. The bottom of the cell consists of three diamonds tilted to form a pyramid that deepens the cell.

The bottom of each cell on one side of the honeycomb simultaneously serves as parts of the bottom of three cells on the other side of the honeycomb.

Cells are divided into several types of structures:

• Bee Bees - for removing bees, harvesting and storing honey and pann in them;
• Trout - when removing drone beams, laying honey (bees avoiding pergoz storage), drones are larger than bees;
• Stem cells are special cells for queen removal.

  Usually they are built outside of hatches, they are more often tied to a clock and continue, less often separated (for example, on a frame);

• Transition cells are irregularly shaped cells that bees build as they move from bees to drones, typically to the top and side bars of frames, and to repair mechanical damage to the honeycomb;
• Honey - usually located at the top of the honeycomb.

  They have oblong shapes and are inclined upward by 13°, so the honey does not work.

The cells of different bee breeds differ because each breed has its own size of worker bees.

The cells in the honeycombs are slightly upward (4-5 °, this is basically the basis for the operation of the radial honey receiver).

The construction of honeycombs proceeds from top to bottom. Bees always carefully monitor the integrity of the honeycombs.

Bees regulate ventilation by creating special barriers in the vents.

Newly built clocks are made of pure wax, they have White color, but before use they polish the bees with propolis and give them a slightly yellowish tint.

Over time, the honeycomb becomes foggy due to the remains of the cocoons. These cells produce bees that are smaller in size and mass. In very old combs, bees are forced to compress some of the accumulated layers, and they spend a lot of time and effort preparing the wall for honey eggs.

Types of hives

Non-opposing stumps

Under natural conditions, bees live in tree cavities, less often in rock cracks and other suitable natural quantities.

Honey and wax have been mined in the forests of Russia since early times.

People have long learned to create artificial cavities to save bees - pearls. The remains of a bird apiary were found at the end of the 19th century. Centuries in the forests of Bashkortostan. Often, notches were cut into the tree, as were colonies of bees and moved to another location.

When these deck-like panels began to be assembled in one place for easy protection and maintenance, the transition from beekeeping to apiary to apiary occurred.

In the southern breeding areas, the bees fed on mussels—bees from bees or straw covered in clay. In the steppe regions, bee boxes were made of slabs or thin duplexes in which the bees were stored.

Battle, roof, dub, hack were non-selective. The bees were built with feces, and a person could enter the nest (for example, pick out honey), only destroying the bee's apartment.

Folding nettles

Linear hives

A transition from the system, an accessible folding hive to a cellular linetech, in which a removable cover is placed parallel to a row of wooden rulers so that each row of bees builds a separate cell.

By cutting out the sides of the clock and thereby separating it from the side walls, it was possible to carefully remove the individual clock without destroying it. However, linear stumps were not widely used and were only transitional phases of modern threads, which made it possible to control the vital activity of bees.

nettle hackberry

The frame bush was invented in 1814 by the Ukrainian beekeeper P.I. Prokopovich.

Jan Gerzhon (1838) and August von Berlepsch (1852) also responded to the request. However, the frame design was close to the modern US patented L.

Langstroth in 1851; The Langstroth Gorge footage was pulled from above, it became the most common in the world.

Sliding hive parts

The distribution frame consists of components.

In some special cases, hives may be made differently. Typically a hive set includes:

• Removable bottom (in many models the bottom is part of the 1st building).
• Examples (depending on the type of hive from one to several).
• Saving extensions (this can be one or more, often regardless of the type of hive); Each extension has one set of frames (depending on model 10-24).
• Roof (with the contents of the bee pavilion may be missing, because the hives are under the roof of the building/trailer).
• Frames in which bees build honeycombs; In each case, two sets of frames are typically stored and one for expansion.
• Frame separators (such as hooks or other system for defining a specified frame width).
• The canvas or ceiling is made of a thin plate (it is mounted on the top of the frame of the upper body).
• Gutter feeding (most often chutes).
• Prihodišče; most often it cannot be removed and is under every touch.
• Membrane (to separate families that separate one body or living part of the body from an empty one).
• One or more dividing rods (prevent the queen from penetrating the body or honeycomb here and there)
• A pillow or larger (filled with dry moss, cotton wool or other material).

Types of Honeycomb Frames

Vertical baths (risers) which are called all hive frames whose volume increases upward to accommodate a nest of new buildings or stores ("semi-expansion"). Thus, the frames in a vertical hive, as its volume increases, are located at several levels.

Horizontal stumps (solarium) called hives, the volume of which is increased by adding frames to the socket on the side.

The frames in the beds lie in one row, and the hives themselves look like oblong boxes. In fact, umbrellas only come in one design, which can be modified by some beekeepers.

They look like long boxes or old chests. They usually contain 16-20, and sometimes 24 frames measuring 435x300 mm. Here the bees' nest is spread horizontally.

The 16-frame beehive house is made for one family, and the 20 and 24 designs are for two. The degree of this straw allows you to grow colonies stronger than in a 12 frame system.

Typically, two lower and upper flaps are installed at the front, but they can also be located on opposite sides - in the front and rear walls. There are one or two shops. The ceiling is foldable. The roof is flat and flush with the walls of the body, and is held in place by an external ridge. Because the deck is so easy to operate, new beekeepers usually start working with it.

In Russia, double-sided blowers and beds are equally widespread.

Large body hives It is considered to be more appropriate when working with large numbers of bee colonies because it allows you to work in cases rather than frames.

Often one bee with a bee body has 200 or more colonies of bees.

In a multi-part carcass, the carcasses are placed vertically, one on top. As the bee family develops, cabinets and store expansions are added.

As a rule, two, three or more carcasses are marked. In this case, the number of carcasses depends on the beekeeping method and the calculation of the beekeepers, and not on the design.

The most popular (and almost the only) multi-hive structure in the world is the Langstroth-Root hive. Its buildings are designed for a frame size of 435-230 mm, and stores do not differ from buildings.

Examples vary depending on the height of the frame used. The most commonly used Routine frameworks.

Langstroth Hive Route

As a rule, it consists of several buildings, up to 6 pieces, usually in frames, 10 frames in a body, the frame size is 230x435 mm.

The principle of keeping bees in the Langstroth-Root bath is a simple understanding and is based on the behavioral characteristics of bees.

After hibernation in the upper part of the body, where the bees of the family sleep in winter, the second body is secured with a frame and land filled with honeycombs. Bees Tired winter bees and the queen want to move to a warmer building and a more spacious apartment. After that, the object is replaced, and another block with frames is inserted between them. The characteristic behavior of bees is that they are always filled with honeycombs from top to bottom, so when between buildings filled with honey space, then some types of destruction are their homes, they try to rebuild and touch, after a while, fill with honey and honey.

After this, for two to three weeks, as the bee colony learns and gains power, everything is done the same way. The burial body, in which the queen is located, is covered with a special mesh through which the worker bee passes, but the queen does not.

Due to the need to create permanent buildings to rebuild and restore bees to their homes, Langstroth hives Ruth is more suitable for areas with warm climates, with constant handling of hypothermia a risk of stagnation in temperate zones.

To prepare for winter, you need to keep one body honey and place it in winter. But here is the choice of everyone who can then feed them with sugar or other methods.

There are cases when beekeepers complement Dadant hives as multi-colored - they put more buildings and extensions (the latter can be either buildings or standard extensions up to half the frame).

Twelve Dadan-Blatt frame huts

Increase

One horned bush with 12 half extensions.

It is made of disks.

Apiary with bees

The dimensions of the wrinkles at the end are 20×40 mm. Machines are used to produce them. The top of the magazine has wrinkles on the back and front wall. The single-wall housing can be made with 12, 10 and 14 frames. This can be seen in the photograph.

All sizes are the same. After all, you may get a regular case from the two stores in the future.

You can finish the frame with wax. Its melting is performed before processing. The queen and bees feel comfortable in the house. The temperature is maintained using heaters.

Correct installation of hives

Proper installation of nettles in the hive gives the worker bee the ability to move around the universe in space to distinguish beating from others.

A beehive is a chain of solid fences or hedges of plants (hazel, willow, acacia, lilac, gooseberry, currant, hawthorn, fragility, turning, etc.). The height is less than two meters.

This is done in such a way that bees fly from the apiary for a bribe, and return in advance when they reach a height of more than two meters.

If they move along a fence at this height, they will not be able to collide with or obey people or animals.

Without a trip to the apiary, you cannot store more than 20-25 bee families in the absence of other apiaries and the presence of forest, field, meadow honey bees within a radius of 2-3 km. If 50 bees are placed in a stationary hive, it will be 3-4 kg per colony. It is best to start beekeeping with 2-3 bee families. As you gain skills and experience, your apiary can be expanded by reproducing yourself or by acquiring new colonies.

The beans with bees are placed in the shade of the crown of trees, bushes and protected from sunset. The best place for baking hives is the garden. Koprivnitsa with fruit trees on the left and behind (from north to south), so that the crown covered the hive from the sun at noon. In the absence of natural shelters, removing the hives from the sun can be protected by placing a roof on freshly cut grass, a straw or wood slab, plywood, fiber that places them under the rails.

A stationary apiary provides shade from the sun by planting fruit trees and shrubs, corn, sunflowers, raspberries, etc. There may be stands and grape plants next to the hives: beans, annual bindweed, grape vines, hops. These plants will serve as a good guide for summer bees.

Distance between hives It is permissible to maintain 3-4 m, between types of hives 4-6 m.

The stumps are mounted on supports 30-50 cm high. In hives with limited space, nettles can be found at a distance of 0.7-1 m in groups of two, three, four or one at a time. When combined, they are placed in groups rather than on one line, and with tabs in different directions. Do this to prevent bees from weaving. For the same purpose, nettles should be colored different colors: yellow, blue, blue, white. These colors are most characteristic of bees and the queen.

In what direction should the belts appear? As a rule, apiaries are located in the ambient direction of the apiary. We most often recommend the east or southeast direction. According to academic Letka, A. M. Butler wrote: “The hole can be oriented in all directions, but the south direction is worse than the other, because the hive receives a lot of light and heat, the south-east and south-west directions are better for stumps, of which the swarms wish to head north, northeast and northwest, better for the cells.”

The prominent Russian beekeeper N. M. Vitvitsky wrote in his works that wild bees are becoming more and more honeyed in the corners, for years, which were in the north. Based on long-term observations on a fixed hive of spring and fall hives, it is best to point the holes to the south, in the summer months to the north, and in the winter in the direction of the dominant wind (the wind blowing in the last wall of the hive). The hive, in order to go around its axis at the same time, should not exceed 45 degrees. If the hive does not have the ability to rotate the hives around its axis, it is most convenient to place them in the southeast.

In the spring, most of the spring was placed in the same places where they received light in the fall. Positioning of apiaries within an apiary should be done in such a way that worker bees do not fly into other stumps after flying and returning from pastures. Creating "homes" for bees is necessary in places with good milestones that will make young stupid queens running to the computer remember clearly and return to their homes.

In a home apiary, it is prohibited to provide honeycombs near the path leading to the entrance to the house and commercial premises, since the movement of people often irritates the bees.

IN open areas Apiaries cannot be tested against prevailing winds, since free-floating wind affects the development of bee colonies.

The most common ways to place an apiary in an apiary are:

• correct lines;
• chess problem;
• group method

Nettle dispersion method regular lines It is used, as a rule, in cases where honey bees, as well as during the migration period of bees, are allocated to a fairly large area.

The stumps were placed on the stands one at a time, 3-4 m apart. According to the usual methods, in the first order of spring, in exceptional cases weak families are usually found. The strengthening of such beekeeping colonies will be caused by attacks.

If bees are exported to bribes, it is advisable that the hives are rarely located in the same row, as otherwise beekeepers with low level departures will fly to other first-row dwellings.

After all, bees with a full guard nail are allowed to fly. For better orientation, tree branches or rods should be placed in the hut in the nomadic city different heights. It is advisable to hang multi-colored flags at the ends of the poles.

There is another feature of the placement of bees during the period of bee migration. The location of the main doses should be taken into account. For example, if on east side there is a floating buckwheat, then you need to stretch several stumps from north to south.

Practice shows that the regulation of hives in a row has one significant drawback:

• Firstly, it takes up a lot of territory and is inevitably wandered by bees;
• Secondly, work time beekeepers are unproductive during the transition from one bee colony to another. After exploring the next colony, the bees are forced to move and transfer everything necessary equipment to the next hive.

Laying hives using the breaking method, i.e. distributed This is very common.

More often than not, equidae spreads in due time. In hives, observe a distance of 3-4 m and 4-5 m between rows. So in terms of convention, the honey bee has a perfect view of the bee's "home", with one line in between the other two views.

However, placing hives in a distributed manner has a significant disadvantage:

• placing hives in this way creates monotony in the apiary, especially if the bee population is 100 or more colonies of bees and the “houses” have the same appearance;
• In this case, the belts are oriented in one direction;
• the bees and the queen are poorly oriented and often hit other bees;
• it is inevitable that bees and bees' diving becomes difficult, which interferes with the management of breeding work in the apiary, causing the loss of young queens returning from mating;
• conditions have been created to increase the irritation of bees;
• a flock of bees develops;
• conditions have been created for the rapid spread of infectious diseases of bees

Instead of placing the hives in a distributed manner, it is better to use a meshing area group.

The advantages of organizing hives in groups are as follows:

• the honey-forming group method is suitable for all types of apiaries;
• the distribution of hives into groups can be used for playing in the forest, steppe or in the garden;
• when they are combined together, they make up 3-6 hives, which allows the beekeeper to simultaneously care for several hives at the same time, preventing the transfer and transfer of inventory after studying each colony;
• In addition, a beekeeper can better train with several beekeepers, since the trainee can find all kinds of working methods in all places;

As a variation of placing hives at each point diagonally method.

Its essence is that the nettles, in turn, are mutually displaced along the width of the side wall of the hive. In a diagonal row you can install 5-6 hives with a distance of 0.5 m and a row from a line of 4-6 m.

Groups of hives are placed in a semicircle or triangle, and the belts are turned in different directions except north. The distance between groups of hives should be greater than for mating and selection.

In addition, the hives should be placed at different heights from the ground.

In whatever order the dogs were placed, the grass should be destroyed around them, especially at the front.

This is necessary to remove bees from hives. Depending on the debris around the bees, the beekeeper assesses the condition of the bee family.

The best place to place apiaries is fruits and berries.

See also Hive sizes

HIVES FOR BEES. THEIR TYPES. BASIC REQUIREMENTS AND PARAMETERS OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF HIVES.

The main equipment of an apiary are hives - the homes of bees.

Basic requirements for beehives

A bee hive must meet the following basic requirements:

• good at keeping warm
• be provided with reliable ventilation;
• have a design that allows you to easily change its internal volume (reduce or increase depending on the strength of the bee colony and the amount of nectar brought from the field), interchange parts, that is, install a frame, extension, body in any hive - this is absolutely necessary, it is advisable to have interchangeable roofs, flight boards, etc.;
• reliably protect bees in bad weather (from rain, wind), as well as from overheating in hot weather;
• be convenient for the beekeeper to work with when caring for bees and transporting them, light, small in volume, neat.

The outside of bee hives must be painted. In this case, paints of light colors (white, yellow, blue, light green, pink, gray, beige) prepared on natural drying oil are used. Painted bee hives do not get wet or rot, and have a neat appearance. If the outside of the hives is not painted, then during the autumn rains they get very wet and they have to be removed wet into the winter hut, and excessive humidity in the winter hut is very harmful to the bees. The inside of bee hives should not be painted - this is useless, since every spring the internal walls of the hives have to be cleaned (scraped) with a chisel, knife or scraper, and often burned with a blowtorch flame.

As a rule, hives for bees are made insulated with double walls, which allows them to retain heat in spring and autumn, during the period of growing a bee colony, maintain a more stable temperature in winter and avoid overheating in summer.

Types of Bee Hives

Currently, several types of bee hives are mainly used, which differ in volume - the number of frames placed in them and the size of the frames; in addition, bee hives are divided into double-walled, with insulating material filled between the walls, and single-walled, with a detachable volume or permanent.

Let's look at some of them, the most commonly used types of beehives.

Single-body twelve-frame hive on a frame 135 X 300 mm

A single-body twelve-frame hive on a frame 135 X 300 mm is used with magazine extensions.

In the lower - socket housing of this type The hives can accommodate 12 frames, and on top you can put two extensions (magazines) of 12 half-frames measuring 435 X 145 mm. If necessary, 12 full frames can be placed in extensions placed one on top of the other instead of half frames.

Instead of two extensions, you can install a second body; only full frames are placed in it. In this case, the hive is used as a two-body hive. It will accommodate 24 full frames, and if necessary, you can place extensions on the half-frame on top of the second body or between the bodies.

This type of hive can be double- or single-walled, with a detachable or permanent bottom. The 12-frame nest - the lower building - is insufficient in volume when bees are growing in the spring; there is little space in it for brood during the period of colony growth at the beginning of the season. During this period, it is necessary to install a second building, which somewhat complicates the work.

Single-body 14- and 16-frame hive on a frame 435 X 300 mm.

Single-body 14- and 16-frame hive on a frame 435 X 300 mm.

Increasing the volume of the hive to 14-16 frames improves it. This volume provides a lot of space for growing a bee colony for the main honey flow.

This type of hive is easy to use and can be recommended for beginning beekeepers. Experience shows that the volume of the nest in such a hive is sufficient to build up a large number of bees before the main honey flow (by June 10-20) and even before the flowering of gardens (by May 20-25), and from the beginning of a good honey harvest, the bees are less likely to enter a swarming state .

It has the ability to grow strong families, for which shops are set up with the onset of honey harvest. After filling one magazine with spray (fresh liquid honey), a second one is placed under it. Instead of magazines, you can install a second body, but it is made with 12-14 frames.

You can combine the body with magazines.

18-20 frame beehive on a frame 435 X 300 mm.

18-20 frame hive-lounger on a frame 435 X 300 mm. Some beekeepers keep bees in hives-loungers.

When the family grows in the spring, the volume of these hives is filled with bees in a horizontal direction, in contrast to 12- and 14-frame, double-frame and multi-body hives, in which the family grows vertically.

Under natural conditions, for thousands of years, Central Russian bees lived in tree hollows and the family grew in a vertical direction. As it has been established, the development of the colony and its growth is better, based on which many beekeepers put shops in their hives.

Working in beehives with frames measuring 435 X 300 mm is the simplest, but they have a big drawback - they are bulky and heavy, take up a lot of space in the winter hut, they are difficult to clean for the winter, transport for honey collection or pollination, rearrange, disinfect, etc. Such hives for bees are currently used only in stationary apiaries and are made mainly of double-walled ones or from boards 50 mm thick.

Multi-body hive on a frame 435 X 230 mm.

Multi-body hive on a frame 435 X 230 mm. Consists of four or more interchangeable cases, each of which holds 10 frames. The growth and development of the family in this hive occurs in a vertical direction.

It is always made single-walled, with a detachable bottom, from well-dried and seasoned boards with a thickness of 25 to 50 mm. The thinner the boards, the more carefully the shells must be made to avoid distortions. Leningrad amateur beekeeper P.G. Kuznetsov makes excellent bodies of this hive from hard foam. They are lightweight - light in weight, retain heat well and are not heated by the sun. As a rule, hulls are knitted with casein glue, and for 25 mm boards this is mandatory.

Each housing must be tightly connected to the others; gaps between them are unacceptable. To ensure that the housings do not move at the docking points during transportation, they are made with folds or covered with slats.

DIY beehives: materials, possibilities, drawings and recommendations

In apiaries where hives are not transported, folds are not made in the housings and the joints are not covered with slats. It is more convenient to work with non-rebated bodies; they don’t have to be placed on top (when placed, bees are inevitably crushed between the walls), and by placing one edge of the body on the bottom, the entire body is gradually pushed into place, and the bees sitting on the walls move to the side without being crushed .

Multi-body hive for bees on a frame 435 X 145 mm.

Multi-body hive on a frame 435 X 145 mm. It is used in Lately individual beekeepers. All the features of a multi-body hive are inherent in this one, but a few of them should be noted. Each case holds 12 frames, but the case is much lighter; one person can work with it (remove and put it back) without bulky devices (tables, stands, runners, lifts, etc.)

The entire hive consists of five buildings.

The hulls are made from boards 25 mm thick, tenoned with casein glue. In cold climates, a multi-body hive has a significant drawback - it is single-walled, and no matter how well the bodies are fitted to one another, gaps remain at the points of their connections, sometimes unnoticeable, but greatly cooling the nest during the period of spring growth of bees. This is especially noticeable for bees during the return of cold weather in early May.

However, such hives have a number of advantages over others.

It is easier to prevent swarming, change queens, do layering, etc. In this case, it is necessary to eliminate the danger of cooling the nest through the cracks in the joints of the housings and to insulate it well from above.

In all of the above types of hives you can successfully keep bees, get a lot of honey and wax, but in each of them the work must be carried out according to the appropriate method and in a certain order.

Bee family

Honeycomb

High-quality, high-quality hives are a prerequisite for a productive and profitable apiary. Nowadays, buying beehives is not difficult, but there is no need to spend a lot of money on buying bee houses.

They can be manufactured by themselves and have necessary tools and suitable materials. you can use following materials For own production hives:

• Natural wood is one of the most optimal options. The tree reliably protects insects from heat and cold, and also ensures an ideal level of air circulation in the hive.
• Plywood is environmentally friendly and durable material, which is resistant to weather conditions and is not damaged when transporting the apiary.
• Styrofoam - often used for self-service.

  Polystyrene is very light and compact, it always supports temperature regime, necessary for bees in a beehive.

• Some beekeepers also use materials such as polystyrene, polycarbonate, polyurethane foam to produce hives. These are warm and durable modern materials from which you can easily make a home for bees at home.

So, with the material you've decided on, how to make the hive itself?

Before you start making hives directly, you should carefully study all the features of your design. A standard part consists of the following parts:

• An example with special grooves that will later be attached to the frame.

  The body is the wall of the future stump. The dimensions of the body can be very different - depending on the size of the bee family and the number of frames in the hive. In case of obligatory circumcision - usually slightly above the center line.

• The bottom of the hive - it can be secured and removed.
• Storage Settings – These devices are used to store honey during honey harvesting. The presence of stores is not necessary and is determined directly by the beekeeper.
• The roof can come in almost any shape, but many beekeepers prefer flat roofs.

  The main purpose of this element is to protect the hive and its inhabitants from wind and precipitation. In some cases, special ventilation holes are provided on the roof.

• Frames are nested and separated. The socket frames are two rails connected to the rails.

  It is used to disconnect the honey clock. Sectional frames are made from wood chips. Sectional frames are designed for the production of honeycombs.

• feeders

Before you start making a hive, you should draw a rough drawing of your future structure.

A large number of designs of hives for every taste can be found on the Internet. You need to determine the size of the hive - they directly depend on the number of hives in the hive.

After a complete drawing of the entire hive, separate drawings of each part must be made - the body, roof, bottom, frame. Depending on the drawings of each item, they can be drawn according to the drawings.

The next step is to put all the pieces together. To do this, use self-tapping screws.

The bee herself

The walls of the hives are attached with special edges. Keep in mind that there are no gaps or gaps between the components of the hive.

The last part of the production and installation of hives with my own hands is the installation of the roof. The roof must be attached very tightly to reliably protect the hive and the bee family from precipitation.

HIVE PRODUCTION TECHNOLOGY IN ST. PETERSBURG

As has already been written in our previous articles, Kalinka LLC is engaged in the production of Dadan hives for 10, 12 frames, bed hives for 14, 16, 20 and 24 frames (analogous to Lazutin hives), Langstroth-Ruth hives, cores and beekeeping equipment in St. Petersburg.

You can buy hives both at the production site and in the Beekeeping stores in Moscow and Saratov (see the “Contacts” section in the top menu).

To produce hives, we use Russian wood: pine (since 2013, only the highest and first grade). Wood for production is harvested specifically in winter period, since “winter” wood does not turn blue during storage and processing, in addition, it is less susceptible to the formation of fungi.

Pine harvested for the production of hives is cut down in the northern regions of Russia, since it has a high density due to the smaller number of knots. The density of the wood affects the formation of cracks in it, that is, the denser the wood, the fewer cracks.

Before entering the production of hives, the wood undergoes preliminary selection and processing. At the selection stage, boards with rotten knots, cracks and chips are rejected.

The boards selected for the production of hives are dried to 10% humidity using special Italian equipment.

DIY drawings for a bee hive

Drying on this equipment eliminates the formation of cracks in the wood and does not damage the boards, which is practically impossible to achieve by natural drying.

After the drying stage, the boards undergo another stage of testing and only then are put into production. Further processing and cutting of hive parts is carried out using high-precision German and Italian equipment, the maximum error of which is 0.5 mm. The accuracy of measurements is ensured by the use of electronic calipers.

All boards undergo a mandatory processing stage - planing.

Planing provides smooth surface boards and perfectly straight corners of the hive.

The design of Dadan hives and hives-beds consists of several main parts: a bottom with a flight board, one or more bodies, a roof with an underroof, one or more magazines, nesting or magazine frames and a diaphragm.

The bottom of Dadan-Blatt hives and bed hives produced at our enterprise is detachable.

It is assembled from boards, micro-jointed and glued with frost-resistant glue with a hardener (“Kleiberit” D-4). The floor is embedded in the bottom trim, thickness 35 mm. In the front bar of the bottom trim for the bees to fly out, there is an entrance slot with an entrance barrier. The width of the taphole can be adjusted using a special valve. The landing board is attached to the front bar. The landing board is fixed at a slight angle for more comfortable landing of the bee, and has a width of 55-60 mm.

and length - 500 mm.

The hive body consists of 4 walls, the thickness of which is 35 mm. In the upper part of the body there are folds for hanging frames, and in the front part there is a round or oblong notch. The round entrance is specially drilled at an upward angle to protect the hive from water.

The boards of the hive body, as well as the bottom, are micro-jointed and glued with high-quality frost-resistant glue with Kleiberit 303 D4 hardener.

Sufficiently thick walls of the hive body allow the bees to safely survive the winter.

In our apiary, bees winter at outdoors and contrary to the fears of many beekeepers, bees not only survive the winter without problems, but also show greater productivity during the honey collection period.

The lid in the hives produced at our enterprise is detachable and has a thickness of 22 mm. The liner is designed to accommodate an insulating cushion.

A magazine or magazine extension for hives is half the height of the main body. The frames in the store are correspondingly half the size of a regular nesting frame.

The hive diaphragm resembles a nesting frame, only with a closed wall. The diaphragm has sealing gum, which allows you to create a blind partition in the hive, which is necessary to separate the nesting part of the hive from the empty space.

Or a diaphragm is used when keeping two bee colonies in a hive to divide the hive into two parts.

Nesting frames for hives are the base on which bees build nesting combs. It consists of a top bar with hangers, a bottom bar and 2 side bars. The side bars of the frame are equipped with special permanent dividers necessary for fastening the frames in the hive while transporting bees over long distances.

The cover of the hives produced at our enterprise is made of boards, the thickness of which is 35 mm.

The lid is a removable part of the hive and has a slight slope. In addition, the hive cover is upholstered with a layer of plywood and a layer of aluminum. All this helps protect the hive from water ingress during rain, the harmful effects of electromagnetic waves and overheating from the sun's rays, while at the same time maintaining heat in the hive.

Recently, at the production stage of hives, we began to immediately install rectangular and round entrance barriers on them, which makes working with the hives convenient and does not require any modifications. The hives are fully equipped, so the beekeeper only needs to paint and oil the hive, and he can get to work.

The hives produced at our enterprise will serve you from 15 to 20 years. When purchasing hives, the buyer is provided with a 1-year guarantee and all necessary documents are drawn up.

The production of hives is not just a business for us. We put our soul into production, constantly striving to improve the quality of hives, using new equipment and high-quality materials.

Your opinion is important to us. Call us, we are always happy to listen to your wishes or answer all your questions.

In addition, you can ask a question in a special section “Question - Answer”.

PHOTO OF HIVE PRODUCTION HERE

Both beginners and experienced beekeepers come to the conclusion that it is better to make a hive with their own hands. You are absolutely confident in the quality of your own product; if development is necessary, you can quickly produce the missing parts. We will talk about how to make hives yourself.

Popular hive designs

Before you build a hive with your own hands, you need to choose its design. Basically, novice beekeepers use two types of hives:

• Dadanovsky for 12 frames. It has vertical design, grows upward. If necessary, another standard housing or magazine is placed on top (an additional housing half the height of the main one, into which the half-frames are installed).
• Lounger - for 20 frames or more. It differs in size - it has a greater width than depth. The number of frames used by the bee colony is regulated by rearranging the partition.

Both of these designs use standard 470*300 mm frames, which are widely used. These two types are the most common among beginner (and experienced) beekeepers. Sometimes they use Ruta hives, but they have frames of a different format - 470*230 mm and are not so easy to find. Also, it is more difficult to work with Rutas than with Dadanovskys or beds; more experience in beekeeping is required. Therefore, choose from two options - Dadanovsky or lounger. It’s best to find out which one specifically from beekeepers in your area.

Hive drawings

Since the Dadanovsky hive and the lounger use standard frames, they differ only in width: one should fit 12 pieces of frames, the other - 20 or 24 pieces. The rest of the parameters remain the same.

Changeable parameters for hives with different amounts frames are given in the table. Substitute them into the drawing and get the option that you need.

Number of frames in the case, pcs.	Case width B, mm	Width of the internal opening of the housing B1, mm	External installation dimension of the housing rebate B2, mm	Internal installation size of rebate B3, mm
10	455	375	419	425
12	520	450	494	400
14	595	525	569	575
16	685	615	659	665
20	880	810	854	860

What you need to know before you start making a hive with your own hands

Even before you start making hives yourself, you need to know the requirements for materials and technology for constructing bee hives. A lot of them. Let's start with the material requirements.

What are they made of?

The most common material is wood. Both non-resinous coniferous wood (spruce, fir, deresined pine) and loose wood can be used. hardwoods- poplar, linden, etc. You should not use dense wood - the hive will be heavy and cold.

The requirements for wood are strict. It should be dry - no more than 16% humidity, without falling knots, rot, wormholes, or redness. Blue discoloration is acceptable (it does not affect quality indicators). If there are knots, they can be removed, sealed with plugs of the same type of wood and puttied. Do not use wood with other defects.

Today they make hives from plywood, preferably birch. In this case, the walls are made double with a gasket between layers of insulation - foam plastic. Such hives are warm in winter and cool in summer. Their disadvantage is that the walls are vapor-tight and moisture does not escape through them. Therefore, the hive ventilation system must be given Special attention(make an additional notch at the top and, if necessary, open it for ventilation).

Sometimes hives are assembled from polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam. Most good option- expanded polystyrene. You can even install some kind of fasteners in it; neither bees nor other insects can gnaw it. The remaining two materials are collected using glue, and bees also sharpen them, and ants and other neighbors undesirable for bees can settle in.

Processing and Assembly Requirements

When assembling a hive with your own hands, you must strictly maintain the internal dimensions of the body and extensions. Then increasing volumes will not cause difficulties. Parts of the hive - bodies, extensions, magazines, roof - must be connected into a lock and the lock parts must also match. This is necessary for a reliable connection without cracks and drafts, which bees really don’t like. Due to this maximum tolerances during processing they are 1-2 mm.

There are also requirements for the quality of processing of materials. Most of them relate to wood, but they can also be applied to other materials:

• Boards and bars must be smooth, without burrs, burrs or chips.
• It is necessary to cut materials strictly at an angle of 90°, without allowing deviations.
• The hive bodies must be knocked down from solid boards 40-45 mm thick or using a tongue-and-groove joint, glued for reliability.
• To pair the parts of the hive, a quarter is chosen in the parts - for a reliable gapless connection.
• Rebates are made on the front and back walls of the hive for hanging frames. The depth of the fold should be such that there is a distance of at least 8-10 mm from the top edge of the plank to the cover or extension. If the distance is smaller, the frames may stick to the cover, which creates maintenance problems.
• If the walls are made of two layers (if the boards are not thick enough), the outer ones are connected in quarters, making sure that the seams in the layers do not coincide. It is better to connect the internal parts and the bottom into a tongue or groove.

Structural elements and their features

Most often, the hive has a modular structure - it consists of several detachable parts. This is convenient as it allows you to increase the volume as needed. Each of these parts is manufactured separately and the manufacturing precision must be high - all parts must be interchangeable.

Frame

This is the central part of the hive, which usually houses the bees' nest. Depending on the number of bodies, hives can be single-body, double-body or multi-body (3 or more). The corps are mentored as the family grows.

Roof

The roof of the hive can be single-pitched (sloping backwards) or gable. In any case, it should have overhangs - protrude beyond the geometric dimensions of the hive and protect the walls from exposure to bad weather.

The roof consists of a roof liner - a flat body for placing insulation or feeders for feeding bees - and the roof planks themselves, nailed to the roof liner or screwed with self-tapping screws. The height of the underframe depends on the thickness of the insulation, and this value depends on the region. Typically the height of the roof liner is 80-140 mm. Ventilation holes are often also made in the roof liner to remove moist air from the hive.

When making a roof, the boards are laid either in two layers with the seams overlapping, or from thicker boards in one layer, but the seams are necessarily covered with thin planks. On top of the wooden roof of the hive you can lay roofing iron, roofing felt or roofing felt.

When making the roof, make sure that it fits tightly, without gaps. To seal the joint around the perimeter of the body, you can stuff a felt strip or nail a plinth to the outside of the body to cover the joint.

Bottom

The bottom of the hive can be nailed to the body (solid) or can be pulled out or pulled out, i.e. be detachable. The removable bottom makes hive maintenance easier - it allows you to clean the bottom without disassembling the entire hive. Structurally, the bottom can be:

• cold - from a single board;
• warm - made of two layers with insulating backfill.

The bottom can also be double-sided - with protrusions of different heights on both sides, which allows you to adjust the internal volume. Knock it down tightly, without gaps, connect the boards into a quarter or into a groove with additional gluing of the joint with moisture-resistant wood glue. The cracks must be carefully sealed (with wood putty), as wax crumbs are poured into them, and then wax moths appear. Therefore, from time to time they prefer to replace the bottom by knocking together a new one.

Video about making hives from different materials

They are accustomed to hiding their homes in hollows or dense tree crowns. Therefore, in order for insects to quickly acclimatize to a new environment, experienced people are trying to create for bees optimal conditions for reproduction and creation of delicious food. In this article you will learn how to create a hive with your own hands, what are the best materials for bee housing and arrangement options.

Main design elements

Before you create a design sketch, you need to know what a bee hive is made of. This is due to the fact that the beekeeper is trying to create housing for insects that supports their biological needs. However, this design will not always be convenient for bees.
Mostly, All hive structures consist of a body, two compartments, a lid and a magazine. Outwardly, it looks like an elongated box with a dense roof and bottom.

The buildings consist of walls. Dimensions depend on the type of structure. There may be several of them. There are bee entrances on the walls.

The store may not be necessary, however, it is suitable for preservation when honey collection occurs. There is also a roof liner (another version of the magazine, but without recesses). It is located between the roof and the top. It serves as insulation. You can also install a bee feeder in the roof liner.

The bottom is located under the body and can be removable or non-removable. The first option allows you to properly care for the bees if they need medical attention. The non-removable one forms a ledge that serves as a landing platform.
Some beekeepers create a ceiling that will retain heat inside the hive. You can place it at the top of the nest above the frames.

The roof is the protection and main element of the hive. It is able to shelter insects from atmospheric phenomena. The roof can be flat or gable. The first allows you to transport the hive.

The frame is used to arrange honeycombs for bees. It consists of an upper and lower bar, as well as two side strips. The frames are equipped with dividers and are located in the bar on top.

How to choose materials and tools for creation

To create the hive, only natural and high-quality materials are used. In the following sections, you will be able to understand what is needed to build a nest, as well as learn the advantages and disadvantages of each material.

Most popular materials

The first and quite popular material for creating a hive is tree. It “breathes” well and releases steam outside. Basically, wood is chosen, such as, and. You can also take poplar or aspen. Wood has a low level of thermal conductivity, protecting bees in hot and cold weather.

Important! To make hives, choose a material that is free of rotten areas, knots and cracks.

The only drawback of this material is its ability to retain moisture that enters the hive.

Plywood hives are characterized as environmentally friendly and durable. They are quite heavy and can withstand transportation well. Plywood is superior to wood in terms of thermal insulation and dryness.
To do this, the plywood needs to be coated with a special acrylic paint and insulate the walls of the hive with polystyrene foam.

In such hives, bees spend less energy on heating, because everything is created inside comfortable conditions for living and honey production.

Many beekeepers choose polystyrene foam because it is cheap and has high level thermal insulation. It is easy to work with and carry out repairs.
The only disadvantages of this material are low strength indicators and an unpleasant aftertaste of honey, since bees can taste polystyrene foam.

If you want to produce honey, but have a small amount of money available, then you can make a beehive from foam plastic. The design is quite lightweight, keeps you warm in winter and keeps you cool in summer.

The only drawback is painting the finished hive to protect the foam from weather conditions.
Polyurethane foam used for insulation of buildings. It has a low level of thermal conductivity, but this property will be useful for creating a hive. Polyurethane foam does not allow moisture to pass through, does not rot, does not react to solvents and protects the nest from microbes and fungi. The material is quite durable and mice will not be able to damage it.

The only drawback is flammability. But this can be corrected with an additional ventilation system.

Polycarbonate is characterized by strength, lightness and durability. The material is suitable for keeping insects, as it can withstand low and high temperatures and is not afraid of exposure to direct sun.
An optimal microclimate for bees will be maintained inside a nest made of this material.

List of Tools for Making a Bee House

To create a hive you will need the following tools:

• Axe
• Hacksaws of different sizes
• Hammer
• Drills
• Planer
• Bit
• Planer
• Marking tool
• Power tools
• Corner studs
• PVA glue"
• Nesting frame (can be borrowed from an experienced beekeeper).

How to make a beehive with your own hands

Now that you have chosen the optimal material for yourself and collected all the necessary tools, let’s get down to the most important thing. In the following sections you will learn how to assemble a bee hive from different materials.

Wood

To make a hive, choose wooden boards with humidity fluctuating around 15-16%. Depending on the number and size of the body, the amount of material is selected. It is better to take drawings from experienced beekeepers.

Important! Stick to the basic parameters of the main elements to simplify operation.

Housing for the hive

You will also need 4 cm thick boards to make the bottom and body. We make grooves in the boards to connect the walls of the body.

We produce planks measuring 18x4 mm.

We connect the boards into panels, lubricating the grooves with PVA glue. It is very important to press them tightly together so that no gaps form.
And so we make 4 walls. The body must be assembled in the form of shields, which can be connected using tongue and groove and casein glue. Dimensions of the rear and front walls are 605x320 mm. Side walls - 530x320 mm. We make grooves in the side walls 5 mm deep and 20 mm wide.

Important! Distance between grooves-450 mm.

Let's start creating the back and front walls. They should be assembled into temporary shields made of boards (thickness - 15mm). Wall dimensions - 675x500 mm. The dimensions of the outer side walls are 560x500 mm.

On permanent place The boards of the outer walls must be nailed individually to fit correctly into place. We fix the inner walls with glue, the corners must be fixed strictly straight. It is better to place the lower edge of the case horizontally.

Lower and upper trays

The bottom tray must be made according to the following dimensions - 1x25 cm, positioning it at least 5 cm from the right wall of the hive. The upper tray measures 1x10 cm and should be placed at a distance of 12 cm from the right wall of the hive. Its height is 3 cm below the edge of the upper bars of the frames.
Underframe space

It is necessary to make a wedge-shaped hole in the back wall at the bottom level to make it easier to fight varroatosis. It can be closed with a liner (dimensions 45x4 cm).

Using holes for trays, you enclose the inter-wall space of the hive with small corridors made of slats. Dimensions - 1.5x2 cm.

We will nail the first layer of flooring parallel to the front inner wall of the body. The length of the floor is 65 cm. The first board must be positioned so that it protrudes beyond the body by 1 cm. We make landing boards on this protrusion. Then we nail the remaining floor boards. After this, we turn the body upside down and lay a layer of cardboard and roofing felt. The next layer of the floor is boards.

External walls

After you have made the floor and nailed the inner walls, install the outer walls. We nail each front and rear from the bottom of the body. The ends should protrude 2 cm beyond the inner side walls. At this time, we lay insulation between the walls. Holes for the tray should be cut in the front board. There should be a hole in the back wall for underframe space.

Also, for stability, it is necessary to nail linings to the corner outer walls.

At the ends of the back and front walls, which protrude 2 cm beyond the lateral internal walls, it is necessary to fill 15 cm thick side outer boards. 4x2 cm strips should be nailed along the entire perimeter of the internal walls.

On the slats of the front and back sides of the hive, you should select folds (dimensions 1x1 cm) to install the frames. The planks must be placed tightly on the insulating material.
Insulation material

To fill the space between the walls you need to use moss. It should be more withered, since such moss will fill the voids well.

Foam plastic, insulation board, cotton wool, wool and tow are also used.

Since beekeepers often have to lift the roof and put it back, the product must be lightweight. For this you need a harness. It should be made 12 cm high from boards 15 cm thick.
Above the nest under the roof it is necessary to leave a free space of 24 cm in height. In this place we place a store for a half-frame and a heating pillow.

Pillow

The pillow is placed between the sides on the canvas so that it fits snugly against the walls of the side.

The pillow occupies 1 cm above the nest. Dimensions - 75x53. The thickness of the padding is 10 cm. You can also use moss, but it is best used to insulate the side walls.

Entrance for bees

Between the bottom and the lower edge of the body it is necessary to leave 1 cm for the passage of bees and ventilation in winter time.

Did you know? It is better to paint the hive white, as this color is better remembered by insects.

From foam plastic

To make a foam beehive you will need foam leaves, self-tapping screws (5 cm), fine-grit sandpaper, water-based paint, liquid nails, a paint roller, a ruler, a screwdriver (screwdriver), a utility knife and a circular saw.

Important! All hive objects are connected in the same way as wooden bases nests for bees.

The foam sheets should have the following dimensions - 3x5 cm. We prepare a design sketch on paper and transfer it to the foam using a marker and ruler.

We cut out the structure with a utility knife, saw or hacksaw. We clean the edges with sandpaper.
We fasten the side walls with overlaps (we cut out quarters at the joints and push the walls tightly into each other). We fix the elements with liquid nails.

To secure the result, use self-tapping screws around the perimeter.

Made from polyurethane

For the body you will need 8 metal plates. Four slabs will form the outer contour, and the remaining four will form the inner contour. Spacers must be installed between opposing inner plates. External tiles should be bolted together.

Metal plates must be screwed to the inner sides of the outer tiles, forming recesses in the body for gripping.

The base and lid are made with grooves. The slabs will be inserted into them. Metal strips are placed along the edges and the parts are connected with bolts.

Holes should be drilled along the inner and outer perimeter of the body and cover. Threaded metal rods will be inserted into them during assembly.

Bolts should be screwed onto the rods, holding the entire structure firmly. Holes should be made in the lid for pouring the mixture and a valve with a plug. They will close this hole. Bottom and roof

For the roof you need 2 rectangular parts. One should have protruding sides along the edges, the other should have a protruding rectangular interior.

The bottom is rectangular frame With metal mesh in the middle. It is made from individual polyurethane foam blocks. They can be fastened with bolts.

You should have 4 molds for the bars. In all bars you need to put a strip of metal along the inner perimeter, which will form folds. We lay a metal mesh on them and nail them with a stapler.

It is better to place the front bar lower in height to create a gap for the tray. After casting, we use a cutter to select grooves in the inner side walls for the bottom valve. We cut it out of polycarbonate. We also place the rear block lower in height in order to insert the valve into this gap. Preparation of polyurethane foam mixture

This material is obtained as a result of reactions of polyol and polyisoconate.

When pouring the mixture, you need to correctly calculate the total mass for the process. This can be done by calculating the volume of the hive part: multiply it by the width, thickness and length. The resulting amount must be multiplied by the coefficient technological losses(1.15) and the estimated density of polyurethane foam (60 kg/m2).

After processing, we assemble the form. Internal slabs installed in the grooves of the base, and plastic corners should be placed inside the plates, which will serve as folds for the frames. The corners can be secured with thick thread.

We install and secure them with screws and internal strut braces. Then we install the outer plates and secure them with bolts, placing the top of the mold with grooves on the walls. We twist it all with metal rods.

In this mold, pour the polyurethane foam mixture into the holes, but not completely, as it expands. As soon as the foam begins to appear from the hole, the mold must be closed with a valve.

We fill the molds for the lid and bottom in the same way. After filling the mold for the lid, pour a small amount of gravel into it so that the lid holds steady in gusts of wind.

The mixture hardens within 30 minutes. After this, unscrew the bolts that hold the rods. By using wooden block and use a hammer to knock down the top part of the mold.

After this, we unscrew the bolts on the edges of the form, doing this little by little so as not to deform the structure. So we go through two circles over all the bolts, after which we remove the spacers.
Parts of the mold are cleaned of polyurethane foam particles, and excess along the edges of the body can be removed with a sharp knife. After which the structure is cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.

Then we coat the product with façade acrylic paint to protect the hive from ultraviolet radiation. This coating will not be damaged by temperature changes.

Coloring occurs within a week after production, but not earlier than after 8 hours.

Arrangement of the hive

Now you should start building a hive for bees.

In the American method of raising bees in an apiary, 5 types of insect families are created: maternal, paternal, starter, incubator and nurturing families. For this method, you need to have a beehive with 24 frames, an entrance, two diaphragms that will move freely in the hive, one blind diaphragm with a rubber band, one diaphragm with a dividing grid. A feeder and pillows are also needed.
In the fall or spring we introduce a family with a good breeding queen. In the fall, they are fed with honey and treated for varroatosis and prevented with antinosema agents. in spring

One of the healthiest treats in our world, without a doubt, is honey. After all, another tasty product that has so much useful substances, simply doesn't exist. And the hive is a kind of factory for the production of this delicacy, which must have everything necessary for full existence its inhabitants. That is why, before you start building a hive with your own hands, you need to carefully study all the nuances of insect life. To do this, it is worth studying special literature that talks about the existence of bees and their way of life.

A little about the structure of the hive

Every adult knows that the bee community exists according to a special regime, where each bee clearly knows its role and has its place in the house.

• The responsibilities of young bees include feeding the young, since they have more developed maxillary glands, which perfectly produce royal jelly.
• Middle-aged individuals are responsible for the cleanliness of their home.
• Older bees are engaged in the construction of honeycombs, as they have well-developed wax glands.
• There are also “flying” insects, their main purpose is to collect honey.
• But the duties of drones include fertilizing queen bees. But their life is quite short, because with the onset of autumn the males are driven out of the hive, where they die.

Each hive can be filled with several tens of thousands of bees, but only during the height of the summer season.

DIY hive

Hive boa constrictor

The bee house consists of several parts: the body, the magazine, the roof liner and other components. Each department has its own residents and performs certain functions. The best option For novice beekeepers there will be a boa hive.

Frame

The most important part of the hive is the body, because absolutely all bees use it 12 months a year. A queen bee is constantly present here, laying eggs in the honeycombs built for her. In summer, the honeycombs are completely filled with not only eggs and larvae, but also honey. Basically, this part of the hive is located at the very bottom. It should retain heat well in winter, and, on the contrary, be cool in summer. That is why, to make a body, you need to use thermal insulation materials. Most often, PPS slabs serve as it.

The housing must contain nesting frames. Usually their number does not exceed 15 pieces, it all depends on the size and design of the hive. Frames are removable parts of a bee's home.

Nest frames

A bottom is attached to the body, which, depending on the model, can be removable. According to the hive design diagram, the frames should be suspended. The distance from the bottom to the frame should not be less than 2 cm. It makes it possible to freely carry out pre-season cleaning of the bee house.

Important! For more convenient access, the space under the frame can be increased to 5 cm. In addition, this will allow the beekeeper to feed the bees a little by placing a container with special food there.

Shop

This section of the hive is located on top of the body. It is in this part of the house that bees deposit honey. When making hives, you need to take into account that the dimensions of the magazine must correspond to the size of the body, and the number of frames must be the same. The extension must be warm, so it, like the body, is insulated.

Liner

The roof liner, or ceiling, serves to additional protection hive from rain and other precipitation, as well as to create a kind of air cushion, with the help of which the house is maintained optimal temperature air. However, beekeepers often use the roof liner as a roof. Then its surface is covered with iron.

Hive components

Honeycombs with beebread

Before you make a bee hive with your own hands, you need to know what parts should complement it. These parts of the bee house include honeycombs, diaphragm, separators, subframe roofing felt and other parts.

Frames intended for installation in the housing are made from natural wood by professional hive manufacturers. The thickness of each of them should not exceed 4 mm. To make it easier for bees to build honeycombs, stainless steel wire or very thick fishing line can be stretched around their perimeter. The shape of the frames can be varied, it depends on the type and design of the hive:

• horizontal, having a height less than the length;
• vertical with height greater than length;
• square.

Hives of different types

Making hives with your own hands is quite labor-intensive work, requiring accuracy and perseverance, because it consists of a fairly large number of parts. In addition to those described above, each hive has:

• Separators. They are designed to provide the required distance between the frames, which should be about 10 cm.
• Diaphragm (insert board). Its main purpose is to separate the uterine nest. Its dimensions must correspond to the body. It is located in the hive so that it divides it into 2 parts. Often it is installed in the case of dividing space in the house when there are 2 bee families in it.
• Stretcher. This is a sheet of roofing felt that is processed special composition to eliminate odor. It is made to the size of the hull bottom. They insert it for the winter, and in the spring the quality of the bees' wintering is assessed based on its contents. It is removed at the beginning of the season and stored subject to certain rules.
• Dividing grid. It is installed so that the queen cannot move from one part of the house to another. The usual location is the gap between the magazine and the body. It can be plastic or wire, and the cells can be of dimensions into which worker bees can easily pass, but the queen bee and tinderbox, which are larger in size, remain in the nests.
• Folding hinges. They are a connecting element, the main function of which is to connect the magazine and the socket housing.
• Connecting tape. Serves for a more durable connection of all non-removable parts. The material for its manufacture is usually thin steel.

Diaphragm

How to make a boa hive with your own hands: drawings

Making hives with your own hands begins with preparing drawings and all necessary details. The first thing you need to do is the bottom of the hive. There are 2 types: removable and solid.

Removable bottoms, as a rule, are made for multi-hull hives. This bottom allows you to quickly carry out spring work in the hive, as it is removed very quickly, freeing up space.

Important! The removable bottom must have universal dimensions and easily fit other hives in the apiary.

Non-removable bottoms have outlived their usefulness and are now used only in beds that contain more than 20 cells.

Before you build a hive, you need to create a drawing of it. This must be done painstakingly, carefully calculating all the necessary dimensions. The bottom of the hive needs to be drawn on paper, and only then the blank should be made.

Frame hives for bees

The technology for making frame bee houses has not undergone any changes in a hundred years. As before, only the front and back walls of the hive are insulated. This option is perfect for the Urals, Siberia and more northern regions of Russia. The voids between the inner and outer walls are filled with natural insulation, such as moss or sawdust.

Note! Before you make a hive with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of its walls. After all, the air temperature inside the “room” will depend on this parameter.

Cheap polystyrene foam is also often used as insulation. Its advantages are obvious: it holds heat well, rodents do not like it, and it is very lightweight, which greatly simplifies assembly.

Do-it-yourself polyurethane foam hive

Polyurethane foam has recently begun to be used in the production of beehives for bees. It is much more expensive than expanded polystyrene, but it performance much higher.

Making hives from polyurethane foam at home is, in principle, not a difficult task. All prepared parts are connected using wood screws.

Polystyrene foam hive

How to Build a Cheap Bee Hive for a Kindergarten

There are a great variety of materials for making a decorative bee hive for kindergarten students. One of the most budget-friendly options is twine - the only option for making bee hives with your own hands that does not require drawings.

To make a bee nest, you need to prepare:

• balloon;
• glue;
• leg-split;
• decorative details.

The balloon needs to be inflated and coated with glue (wallpaper glue is perfect). Then you need to wrap it with twine, but you need to do this so that there is a small window left. The next stage of work will be decorating the hive. To do this, you can use any materials you like, for example, pentagons cut from felt and artificial leather. To fill the hive, you can use padding polyester or foam rubber.

Not taking into account decorative hives, but having a large apiary, it would be rational to make bee houses with your own hands. After all, this can save quite a lot cash, which can be spent on purchasing bee colonies of different breeds. But here you need to take care of the quality of the material and purchase the necessary equipment. If you follow the drawings, everything will definitely work out!

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