You need to choose the right plumbing fixtures. There are many varieties of it. Today, owners of houses and apartments often purchase shower stalls. However, baths do not lose their popularity. Such plumbing today can be made from different materials.
You can do the installation yourself. It is important to know all the intricacies of this process. How to install a bathtub with your own hands, expert advice will help. Each type of plumbing requires specific methods. They will be discussed further.
Installation Features
When considering how to properly install a bathtub, you need to start with general description this process. The choice of plumbing fixtures is also important. The bathtub is a large product. It can be quite heavy. At the same time, such plumbing fixtures must be handled carefully so as not to damage the surface. The coating may crack or chip.
Often installation has to be carried out in cramped spaces. This increases the risk of damage to the bathtub. Cast iron varieties can cause damage to the finish themselves. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out the work with an assistant. This makes installation faster and easier.
It is also worth considering one more nuance. Connecting the drain and siphon is done almost by touch. To complete the task, the master must have certain skills.
When learning how to install, pay attention to the advice of experts. They argue that it is extremely important to perform all actions carefully. Care will be required. Otherwise, the work will need to be done again. For example, dropping a tool into a bathtub can damage its surface. In this case, you will need to buy new plumbing fixtures.
The type of material from which the bathtub is made depends on what the installer does. Therefore, if you want to carry out the installation yourself, you need to consider the features of each type of plumbing fixture. This will determine what type of bathtubs would be better suited in a specific case.
Steel and acrylic bathtub
The answer to this question can be obtained if we consider all the subtleties of this process. First you need to consider the features of each. They come in steel, acrylic and cast iron. Each variety has its own characteristics.
A steel bathtub is rigid and relatively inexpensive. It is easy to install yourself. You don't even need an assistant. The disadvantage of steel varieties is their fragility. When water is poured into such a bowl, the material makes a fairly loud sound. The bathtub “plays”, which is reflected in the condition of the enamel. This type of plumbing is suitable for a small room. Here it can be leaned against three walls. This will extend its service life. It should also be noted that a steel bathtub easily transfers heat to the surrounding space. The water in it cools quickly. Required more costs to pay for energy resources for water heating.
One good option is an acrylic bathtub. Its service life reaches 20 years. This bathtub is more expensive than steel varieties. Her weight is also average. Installing this type of plumbing will require the help of a second person. However, installation does not cause any particular difficulties.
Before considering how to install an acrylic bathtub, you need to know about its disadvantages. Even high-quality bowls are not susceptible to impact chemical substances. Therefore, cleaning the surface presents certain difficulties. Do not use abrasive or aggressive chemicals. Leaves no marks on the bowl pure water.
Cast iron bath
Special attention should be paid to considering the methodology of how to establish cast iron bath. Such varieties are distinguished by their large weight. It has many advantages. However, this bowl is not without its drawbacks.
Cast iron varieties of bathtubs are considered almost eternal. However, this statement is only true when proper care and handling the bathtub. This is a heavy product. To install it you will need a strong assistant. It is recommended to install such a bathtub in a small room where it can be rested against three walls.
Except long term operation, cast iron bowls have virtually no advantages. Thus, an acrylic bathtub surpasses them in terms of practicality and efficiency. The plastic warms up almost instantly. However, it does not give off heat to environment. It only takes a little to fill the cup. hot water. If the owners have an acrylic bathtub, they can install a boiler of only 50 liters.
A cast iron bath, on the contrary, consumes a lot of heat. At the same time, it quickly releases it into the environment. The bowl takes a long time to warm up. If you have a regular cast iron bathtub, you will need to install a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters. At the same time, energy costs increase by 1.5 times compared to steel varieties, and also by 2.5 times compared to acrylic structures.
When figuring out how to install a bathtub, you also need to consider the installation features of cast iron varieties. Due to the heavy weight, installation becomes much more difficult. It is almost impossible to place the bowl on an already prepared siphon without damaging it. Therefore, it is mounted to the bowl in advance. However, even in this case the possibility of damage cannot be ruled out.
Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs is also challenging task. If you purchase adjustable type supports, they can quickly break. This installation option is only suitable for small room, where the bathtub is pressed against three walls.
Preparation for installation
Before considering the technology of how to install a bathtub with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the preparation process. This stage cannot be neglected.
First you need to dismantle and remove from the room old bath(if it was already installed here). If a cast iron bowl was previously installed, it will need to be cut and split into pieces. If the room is small, dismantling it may be difficult. There are no such problems with acrylic and steel bathtubs.
Next, you need to properly prepare the floor and walls and remove all irregularities. You will need to purchase a number of tools. You need to prepare a grinder, chisel, hammer and screwdriver. You will also need cement mortar and foam. If the installation is carried out on a frame, you will need to purchase material for its assembly.
You should purchase paint, polyurethane foam, and sealant. You may need electrical tape as you work. To install a bathtub you need legs, drain fittings and other related elements. It is also recommended to purchase a new faucet. It will harmoniously complement appearance baths.
If the owners have plastic sewer pipes installed, you need to purchase a drain corrugation with a diameter of 50 mm. For cast iron pipes this element of the system must have a diameter of 40 mm.
When learning how to install a corner or straight bathtub, you need to pay attention to the preparation of the sewer drain. If there are defects or malfunctions in this system, they need to be eliminated before it is especially important to eliminate leaks, if any are found.
Also, before starting work, you need to study the instructions of the bathtub manufacturer. The manual describes the installation technology in detail. This information must be studied before starting work.
Walls and floor
There are certain standards for installing a bathtub. This applies to the preparation and installation process. It is recommended to cladding the walls indoors after installing the bowl. This allows you to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards. When the tile is installed after installing the bathtub, its bottom edge hangs over the plumbing. It is coated with a waterproofing compound. This avoids the appearance of fungus and rot.
If the bathtub is installed in a ready-made room that does not require overhaul, its legs should be at least 2 cm higher than the old plumbing. Otherwise, an unsightly gap appears. Its finishing will cause a number of difficulties. Even if you use similar tiles, new material will be slightly different in color from the old coating.
It is also worth paying due attention proper finishing floor. Many novice craftsmen have a question: how to install a bathtub so that it does not wobble? To perform installation correctly, you need to level the floor. In this case, for finishing the base they choose durable materials. The weight of the water bath is quite large.
The cement layer under the bowl must be continuous. It is laid not using a comb, but by extrusion. If there are voids in the grout, the tile may crack from the weight of the bathtub in that area.
Experienced experts recommend installing larch logs on the floor (other types of wood are not suitable). They are laid lengthwise. The legs will stand on them. The boards must be treated with special antiseptic solutions. This technique will evenly distribute the load on the floor. The logs will also help you correctly adjust the height of the bathtub. To prevent the boards from shrinking later, you need to place a bowl on them and fill it with water. The system remains in this position for at least 2 days (preferably a week).
Features of installing a corner acrylic bowl
There are a number of recommendations on how to install an acrylic bathtub. It is necessary to take into account the features of this design. Today, corner acrylic bowls are very popular. They will look harmonious in both small and spacious bathrooms. This bowl shape allows you to install many additional elements interior For example, if there is corner bath You can place a washbasin with a cabinet in the room. There is also enough space to install a bidet or washing machine.
There are several nuances to installing acrylic corner baths. These need to be taken into account before starting work. Similar designs can be with right or left type of arrangement. The ease of connecting the water supply and sewerage depends on the correct choice of bowl type.
The walls for installing such a bathtub must be very smooth. Otherwise, the structure will be impossible to level. It will wobble and quickly collapse.
Corner bowls are installed on legs. In this case, the supports must be firmly fixed along the entire perimeter. They will later serve to fasten the frame and its guides. This work requires precision and accuracy. You will need to consider in detail how to install a bath on a frame.
Where the bowl will be adjacent to the wall, you will need to install a flexible baseboard. It does not deform during vibrations and will also prevent water leakage. Otherwise, installing a corner acrylic bathtub is similar to the technology for installing any bowl made of this material.
Installation of an acrylic bowl on a frame
Should be considered frame technology How to properly install an acrylic bathtub. For built-in plumbing this is one of best options installation To carry out the work you will need a building level. Its length must correspond to the diagonal acrylic product. The hammer must have a rubber tip.
A pipe must be attached to the sewer outlet. It should be flexible and have the same diameter as the tub outlet. You need to attach a siphon here. If it is new, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions. How to install a siphon on a bathtub is indicated by the company that supplies the bowl. All the nuances of this process are discussed here.
The siphon will need to be pre-assembled. It is attached to the bathtub, coating the joints with sanitary silicone. It hardens within 4 hours.
After this you need to mount the frame. First, fix the guides along the wall. These profiles should be fixed as evenly as possible. Other frame elements will be mounted from them. They are installed on the sides. They are fixed to them vertical racks. The connection is made using welding or bolts. Angles need to be checked using a level. If one of them is down and the other is up, you need to align them. At the same time, the lowered corner is raised, and not vice versa. After this, they are additionally fixed with strips for rigidity.
After this, an acrylic bowl is installed in the prepared structure. An overflow from a siphon must be connected to its side hole, and a sewer drain must be connected to the central hole. Plumbing communications are located above the bathtub, so their installation is carried out later. Next, a screen and a plinth between the wall and the bowl are installed.
Installation of an acrylic bowl with legs
There is a certain system for how to properly install a clawfoot bathtub. The supports are supplied complete with the plumbing product. There are special protrusions on the bottom of these bowls. Legs are installed on them. In order for the structure to be rigid, the supports also need to be connected to each other. To perform this procedure, nuts and studs are used.
Next, a siphon is connected to the drain. After this, you can begin installing the bath. The feet must rest firmly on the floor surface. They are checked using a level. If one corner is raised, the other corners also need to be raised. To do this, turn the bowl over. The legs are adjusted to the desired level.
After this, you can connect communications. The water supply will need to be installed later. How to install a faucet on a bathtub, follow the instructions from the manufacturer of this equipment.
In rare cases, acrylic. This is explained by the complexity of performing such work. It is difficult to install bricks at all support points at the same level. This can cause the bathtub to wobble. This problem can only be solved by creating a frame. Therefore, installing an acrylic bowl on bricks is not recommended by experts.
Installation of a cast iron bowl
The question of how to install a cast iron bathtub deserves special attention. In this case, increased demands are placed on the quality of the subfloor and walls. Such a bowl is almost always installed on legs. Bricks can also be used in this case. In this case, it will be difficult to assemble the frame. It must be very durable. The metal of the guides must withstand a weight of about 500 kg.
First with reverse side bowls need to have legs mounted. They have plastic nozzles. This element is necessary to level the position of the bath. The nozzles also prevent the destruction of the floor surface. The supports must be bolted together. This will make the connection tighter. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. After this, a drain from the sewer is supplied. There should be no leaks.
Next you need to mount the screen. This is an optional but desirable procedure. Expert advice will help you on how to install a screen under a bathtub. They recommend using insulation for this. This will reduce heat loss, which will be significant if a cast iron bowl is used. For this purpose, special polyurethane foam is used. It is used to cover the back surface of the bowl. After this you need to install decorative screen. It should be 1 cm higher than the side. This way the water will not overflow onto the floor.
The joints between the walls are covered with plinths. All connections must be carefully treated with sealant. Installing a cast iron bowl requires significant physical effort. It is better to entrust this work to professionals.
Installation of a steel bowl
When installing a steel bowl, the question of how to install the screen under the bathtub disappears. If such a product is installed, it is necessary to ensure free access to all communications.
First, place the bowl upside down. You need to put soft material under it. Next, try on the supports. The supporting channel must be adjusted so that the legs fit snugly to the bottom of the bowl. The joints must be degreased with alcohol. Do not use paint thinner.
Remove from the pads protective film. The supports are placed in the designated places. They need to be pressed tightly. Threaded pins must be carefully driven into the plastic ends. The tip is screwed using nuts to the supports.
The bathtub is installed on legs. If necessary, their level must be adjusted. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. Sewage and faucet are connected. The joints must be sealed with high quality sealant. Next, you can attach the baseboard to the wall. You can install a decorative screen. It is better to give preference to sliding structures.
Having considered how to install a bathtub, you can perform this procedure yourself. The quality of installation will be high. The bathtub will last for many years.
Renovating a bathroom is a costly undertaking not only in terms of construction and finishing materials, but also in terms of costs for the services of craftsmen. In this article we will tell you in detail how to install a bathtub, is it possible to do it yourself, without involving third party specialists. Thanks to this article, you can save a significant amount of your renovation budget.
Installation of a bathtub occurs in several stages, some of them are general, while others are included depending on the material of manufacture of the equipment itself.
- Preparing the room;
- Bath preparation;
- Assembly of the siphon group;
- Bath installation;
- Connection of drain fittings;
- Decorative design.
If the bathtub is metal, then the second point is omitted. The installation procedure itself is not complicated, but care is required when working with small parts. The main difficulty lies in connecting the siphon group.
There are two options for performing this action
- Make connections before installing the bathtub in its place. This is much easier, because access to the drain holes is not limited. And the process itself can be controlled visually. But during installation, you will need to be extremely careful not to damage the installed fittings. Considering that the bathtub is a large and heavy item, this is problematic.
- Place the bathtub in its place and level it. Only then connect the siphon group. The complexity of the process is seen in the fact that the work must be done by touch. It is impossible to see from both sides of the bathtub at once. But in return, the installer is able to handle the tub more freely.
The second option seems more preferable. After all, anyone can brush their teeth with their eyes closed, without getting the toothbrush past their mouth. Therefore, we will focus on the second method.
For the work on installing the bathtub, installers charge 1500-2500 rubles. And the work there, with the base prepared, will not take more than half an hour. Therefore, we recommend installing the bathtub yourself.
Preparing the bathroom
Works should be divided into two categories. It’s one thing if a bathtub is installed in a newly renovated room, and a completely different matter if old equipment is replaced with new one.
In the first case, you don’t need to prepare anything. Complete renovation, implies preparation of the foundation. notice, that floor tiles, if the entire area of the room is covered with it, it should be laid on glue applied in a continuous layer, and not at several points. Otherwise, a bathtub filled with water, and even with a person inside, can break the tiles.
But this flaw can be leveled out if two boards are placed under the legs, positioning them along the length of the bathtub. Wood material – larch. Upon contact with water, the resins contained in larch polymerize, and after a while the boards will be impossible to even saw with a hacksaw.
In the second case, it is necessary to conduct an audit flooring. Special attention pay attention to the places where the legs will be new bath. It is quite possible that the new supports will fall in a different place.
In addition, you should balance the level at which the bathtub will be connected to the wall. With a high probability, we can assume that the walls are not tiled all the way to the floor. And after the old bathtub, at the place where it adjoined the wall, a clearly noticeable line remained. It is unlikely that it will be possible to wipe it off. Microscopic particles penetrated into the pores of the glazed coating, forming an inseparable conglomerate. If this flaw cannot be eliminated, then it should be hidden. For this purpose, boards should be placed under the legs of the bathtub ( as described above).
Heated drying oil is applied to the boards in a thick layer. They can then be painted in a color so that they do not differ from the dominant background.
Let us separately remind you about optimal height baths. In the USSR, experts calculated that it is most convenient for the average person to raise his leg to step into the bathtub to a height of no more than 60 cm. This parameter was included in SNiP as a recommendation. But now there are many more models of bathtubs on the market, with different overall dimensions. Therefore, be guided in this case, follows your own preferences.
At the same time, you need to know about one interesting feature. If the bathtub drain is positioned at least 3-5 cm higher than usual, the water will drain faster. This will no longer allow blockages and deposits to form in the drainage fittings. Even on the drain grate, there will be no hair left.
If tiles were not laid under the bathroom, then it is recommended to slightly raise the floor level in this particular place. Even 1 cm of added height will be enough to prevent water from getting under the bathtub.
To do this you will need:
- Quick-drying self-leveling screed (20 kg):
- Deep penetration primer;
- Guide metal profile;
The floor surface is treated with a primer, and while it dries, a side is created using a metal profile. To do this, the profile is cut so that it fits exactly in length between opposite walls. Tape is glued to the back, this will prevent it from being caught with a tie. Having laid, the profile is screwed through the side wall with self-tapping screws to the floor in 3-4 places. Then spread the screed according to the instructions on the package and pour it into a fenced area. The thickness of the layer is selected individually. Considering that 1 m of 2 screeds with a thickness of 1 cm consumes ≈ 15 kg ready solution. And from 20 kg of dry mixture you will get ≈ 30 kg of solution, then the screed layer in the bathroom will be 1.2-1.5 cm.
The next day, the dried screed is coated with primer again.
Preparing the bath
Only an acrylic bathtub requires special preparation. It needs to be supported. There are three options:
- Legs. Standard solution for short-sighted users. Widely advertised option, but has several weak points. In particular, it is necessary to make blind holes in several places in the monolithic body. This increases the tension of the material. Self-tapping screws will be screwed into these holes, which after filling the bath hot water, also heat up. And their coefficient thermal expansion does not coincide with the same parameter for acrylic.
And the load is expected to be significant. 130 liters of water + 70 kg person’s weight. This is 200 kg for two flimsy supports. A very questionable choice. - Frame. Great alternative. A strong, reliable frame made of profiled pipe, supported by 6-8 legs. The integrity of the bathtub body is not compromised. She seems to be in limbo. Please note that there are frames for all models of acrylic bathtubs.
- Stand made of bricks or blocks. Cheap and capital option. But it is somewhat inferior to the frame, because there is no lateral support.
- If the bathtub is old, then plan to install it on final stage. Only after the base is completely installed can this work begin.
When viewed objectively, there is no alternative to the frame. Depending on the shape of the bathtub, its price varies from 1800 to 2600 rubles. It is delivered in disassembled condition. The connection of all components is carried out at the installation site of the bath, according to the attached instructions. IMPORTANT: the legs of the frame are height adjustable. After assembly, tighten them an equal number of turns until the middle of the thread. This will make it possible to perform horizontal alignment more freely later.
Metal baths, both steel and cast iron, do not require special preparation. But they have one flaw that can be easily corrected. We mean the high thermal conductivity of the metal. Such baths heat up quickly and just as quickly release heat into the ambient air. This drawback can be mitigated with the help of 3-4 cylinders of polyurethane foam. The entire outer surface is treated metal bath. After polymerization of the foam, the cooling rate of water decreases by an order of magnitude. As a bonus, this treatment almost completely absorbs the noise of rising water. While this is not significant for a cast iron bathtub, it is important for a steel bathtub.
In addition, legs are screwed into steel bathtubs seats. TIP: we recommend laying a rubber gasket between the bathtub body and the end of the threaded leg. This will further reduce the noise when drawing water.
Siphon group assembly
Bathroom fittings are purchased separately. They are divided into two groups:
- Prefabricated;
- Whole.
In the first case, the siphon group is assembled on threaded connections from small plastic parts. All bends are rectangular.
In the second case, the siphon is represented by a curved pipe. All his curves are smooth, threaded connections No.
A one-piece siphon looks trivial, but it has huge advantages.
- The more threaded connections and parts, the higher the likelihood of leaks;
- Smooth curves do not impede the flow of water, draining occurs faster and the likelihood of deposits and blockages is extremely low;
Besides this, the siphon is not an object for demonstration, and no one will see it except you. Therefore, the objective choice is a siphon with a solid body.
Its assembly involves screwing the overflow system through the cuff.
Bath installation
The bathtub must be installed by two people. Regardless of the material, this is a large-sized piece of furniture and one simply cannot handle it alone.
To work you will need:
- Rule with level;
- Mallet;
- Adjustable wrench for adjusting legs.
The cast iron bathtub is installed in the designated place. If the base is properly prepared, it does not require adjustment.
The acrylic bathtub is installed inside the assembled frame and slightly pressed until it clicks. This click means that the bath has settled into place and sat on the frame. Since the frame is prefabricated, it is necessary to adjust the plumbing to the horizon level. For this it is better to use the diagonal method.
As a rule, the bathtubs are laid diagonally, and if necessary, unscrew the leg and lift the lowered side. Then the rule is placed on another diagonal, and again leveled, raising the lower edge. IMPORTANT: leveling is carried out only by lifting the low side. You can't lower the high one.
A steel bathtub is installed similarly to a cast iron one. And leveling to the horizon level is carried out like an acrylic analogue.
Connecting drain fittings
The assembled siphon group must be secured at three points:
- Drainer;
- Overflow;
- Sewage pipe.
First, install the fittings in the drain hole. Fixation is carried out using a screw through the drain grate. The gasket is placed on the drain itself; it has a specific shape and provides sealing on both sides at once. TIP: Apply a little between the gasket and the bathtub body. silicone sealant . Do not tighten the screw all the way.
Then, by adjusting the height of the corrugated pipe, the overflow is secured. Here the gasket is installed on the outside of the bathtub. It has a conical shape, and the “point” is directed “from the bath”. The screw is tightened all the way.
After this, press the screw on the drain hole.
TIP: the screw stops turning as soon as the plane of the drain grate begins to sag.
The last thing is inserted into the sewer, waste pipe. To facilitate this process, lubricate both the pipe and the entrance to the sewer with laundry soap.
Screen installation
Almost always, screens are equipped with steel and acrylic bathtubs. For cast iron, it must be purchased separately. But in any case, a ready-made screen is a more acceptable option than homemade design made of plastic.
To install it you will need an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver.
The screen panels are assembled into a single structure. The legs are screwed into the seats and pressed to the maximum.
The screen is installed under the front edge of the bathtub, strictly vertically, focusing on a plumb line. The legs are then unscrewed and the top of the screen is pressed against the edge of the tub. On some models of acrylic bathtubs, there is a special groove where the upper edge of the screen fits.
Complete fixation is accompanied by a characteristic click.
It is difficult to imagine a comfortable home without a bath.
There was a time when bathtubs were even made from wood, and then from marble, copper, cast iron, silver and gold.
A steel bathtub is considered the most durable and has its advantages:
- light weight (easy to transport and install);
- warms up quickly because it has a metal base;
- cheaper than cast iron or acrylic;
- The enamel coating is durable.
The most serious disadvantages are:
- cannot retain heat for a long time;
- not stable enough;
- When filled with water it creates a lot of noise.
Disadvantages can be easily eliminated if you use polyurethane foam for this. Before installing the bath, it is enough to turn it upside down, moisten it with water and foam - it looks like a thermos.
After the foam has dried, cut off the excess with a knife. To make a steel bathtub more stable, the legs can be supplemented with a brick cushion (or used instead of legs).
Preparing the premises
It is better for the bath to be installed on metal supports with adjustable tips and self-adhesive pads. This method is more reliable and safe when installing a bathtub.
In the corners of the bath, you can use timber supports, attaching them to the wall. This technique will strengthen the bathtub, it will become more stable in case of load on the corners.
Before installing the bathtub, first clean the site of intended installation:
- plumbing fixtures are removed;
- the siphon is disconnected from the sewer (the hole is closed with a plastic lid);
- cleaned up old bath(if its legs were cemented, then they are removed from the cement layer);
- the walls are aligned at right angles.
Installation steps
Bathtub installation includes several stages:
- the bathtub is turned upside down and supports are attached to it;
- when installing a bathtub, all operations must be performed carefully so as not to damage the enamel;
- when the bathtub is in place, it must be leveled by adjusting the legs;
- joints are sealed polyurethane foam;
- additional supports are installed (beam the right size attached to the wall);
- installed using fasteners plastic panel, covering the bath.
Possible methods
Install steel bath You can do it yourself using two methods:
- installation on legs;
- installation using brickwork.
Installing a steel clawfoot bathtub It should be remembered that over time the supports may weaken and the service life of the bath will be shortened. In this case, hooks are used (they are usually used when installing water heaters) and a brick cushion is placed under the bottom of the bathtub.
The bathtub is placed on legs and leveled. The outline of the bathtub is marked on the walls and the bathtub is removed.
In the marked places, holes are drilled into which the hooks are screwed (pointed to the side or down).
The bathtub is returned to its place, leveled again and the hooks are tightened - the bathtub is pressed against the walls.
When using a brick pad A series of bricks are placed under the bottom of the bathtub (they can be fastened together with polyurethane foam, and to prevent the foam from “lifting” the bathtub upward, it is better to fill it with water).
When installing a bathtub using brickwork, you need skills in working with such masonry. Columns are laid out of brick on which the bathtub will rest. You also need to build a brick pillow under the bottom of the bath.
The main difficulty that people who install a steel bathtub themselves may encounter: the cushion and posts must be at a certain height from the floor. To do this, the columns, if they are low, can be plastered with mortar.
Required tools and materials
To install a steel bathtub yourself, you will need the following tools:
- the rule (a rigid bar, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bathtub) is required to level the bathtub;
- fork wrench (to tighten release parts);
- rubber hammer (for shrinking the legs when assembling the bathtub);
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- spanners;
- building level;
- polyurethane foam;
- sealant;
- siphon;
- fastening elements.
Step-by-step instruction
After the installation site has been prepared steel bath, you need to follow these steps:
How to avoid mistakes during installation?
There are rules that you need to know about when installing a steel bathtub with your own hands:
- Only the top edge is leveled, since the design provides for an inclination towards the drain;
- do not use corrugation when connecting the siphon to the sewer;
- do not overtighten the screws attaching the legs to the bathtub (tighten them only by hand, otherwise the enamel may chip);
- do not use rubber pads under the legs or bottom of the bathtub (the bathtub may spring back on them and a crack will form between the wall and the bathtub);
- a steel bath requires grounding;
- Usually the bathtub needs to be raised higher than the factory adjustment screws allow. You cannot use stands made of rubber or wood for these purposes (the former will spring, the latter will dry out);
- leave access to the bathtub piping (to clean the siphon).
Watch the video on how to install a bathtub yourself and what you need to consider:
Bathroom renovations always involve big financial costs, which seriously undermine the family budget. The high cost of finishing is explained by the complex microclimate of this room, which requires the use of special expensive materials, as well as high complexity installation work for plumbing equipment.
When money and effort come to an end, wanting to save money, many homeowners wonder how to install a bathtub with their own hands. In this article we will tell you how to properly prepare a bathroom for installation and install the washing container yourself.
Premises requirements
Before you begin installing plumbing equipment, you need to carefully prepare the room for work. From the quality of execution preparatory work depends on the correct installation and operation of the bath. By the time the new wash container is delivered, the bathroom should be in the following condition:
Note! When renovating a bathroom, it is important to follow the correct sequence of technological operations. Installation is carried out exclusively on a leveled and tiled floor. But finishing the walls should be done only after connecting the plumbing equipment, so that there is a minimum gap between the wall and the washing container.
Installation methods
Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a responsible process of putting it on display. required height and connecting the washing container to the sewer and water supply systems. Installation can be done different ways, depending on the size, shape and weight of the equipment. Experienced professionals recommend using the following methods:
Please note that the correctly chosen method of installing a bathtub extends the service life of the product, ensures comfort and safety when using it. In addition, by performing installation, you can improve performance model, reducing the noise and thermal conductivity of the walls using insulating material.
Installation sequence
The process of installing a bathtub consists of several stages: bringing the device into the room, connecting to sewer system, fixing the legs, aligning the bowl construction level, as well as connections with plumbing system. The difficulty of the task lies in the large weight of the washing container, so it is quite difficult to install it alone. Install the bath in the following order:
Important! The optimal height of the side of the bathtub, recommended by SNiP, is 60-65 cm, since installing a washing container at this level causes less injury and inconvenience. A minimum distance from the floor to the bottom of the bowl, sufficient to connect a siphon with overflow - 10-15 cm.
Checking and sealing the joint
Do-it-yourself bath installation ends with checking the functioning of the system. To do this, turn on the water supply, open the taps and observe the operation of the drain. All connections must be tight, and water must quickly flow into the drain, leaving the tank on its own. If everything works, then before you start using the device, all that remains is to seal the joint between the bathtub and the wall. This is done as follows:
When installing steel models, you can process the bottom or walls with outside with polyurethane foam or pasted over with vibration insulation to reduce the resonating ability and thermal conductivity of the material.
Video instruction
1. The bath is an important part of any apartment. Every apartment resident spends a significant portion of their room in the bathroom.
However, sooner or later, we are faced with the need to replace the bathroom with a new one. And here that knowledge will come to the rescue,
which we have outlined below. First of all, you need to dismantle the old bathtub. As a rule, this is associated with certain difficulties, since
the old coupling bolts are most likely rusty and it is simply impossible to turn them out with a wrench - the wrench erases the bolt head stops, but the bolt
and does not scroll - in this case it will have to be cut off with a grinder. Also, most likely we will encounter difficulties associated with dismantling the drain and
overflow grate. Previously they were made of brass - soft material, during dismantling, such a grill may simply break, and then you will have to
carry out dismantling using non-standard methods. One of them is this: using a hacksaw blade, we cut out the lattice segments, positioning the blade perpendicularly
inner ring.
Cut out the drain hole using a hacksaw or grinder 
Break the drain grate using a hammer and chisel
We make cuts from the inside and bend the segments inside the funnel. We do the same with the counterpart of the ring under the bathtub.
Now you can easily pull out the drain grate through the hole in the bathroom. We dismantle the overflow grille in the same way if it cannot be removed in the usual way.
When the grates are removed, we dismantle the drain and overflow pipes. If a drain pipe embedded in the sewer with cement, carefully break the cement, then remove the pipe.
Hole sewer pipe, it is necessary to close it with a stopper (this can be a piece of wood adjusted to the diameter of the pipe, or just a gag made from pieces of rags).
Remove the siphon and overflow from under the bathtub 
Free the walls of the bathtub
Now is the time to remove the bathtub and free up the room. To do this, break the tiles that secure the edges of the bathtub and remove it from the base.
The bathtub is carried out vertically through the doorway. When the bathroom space is freed up, we begin installing a new bathtub.
2. In this article we consider DIY bathroom installation, without electrical components. If you plan to use baths with electrical components,
We strongly recommend using the services of professionals.
Let's look at the main types of bathtubs in order to choose the most suitable one. Traditionally, bathtubs are made of cast iron, steel and acrylic.
Free standing cast iron clawfoot bathtub
Cast iron bath It keeps warm for a long time, it is not expensive, however, such a bath is very heavy. A cast iron bathtub weighs on average about 100 kg, which makes it very
the non-trivial task of its transportation and installation.
Acrylic bathtub - made from modern material- acrylic. The bathtub is made of acrylic plastic and is reinforced to avoid sagging. She is relatively
lightweight, but more expensive than cast iron.
Steel bath- just as easy, and at the same time - cheap. Its main drawback is that the water in it cools quickly.
Circular bathtub in the bathroom interior
In addition, there are bathtubs made of many other materials - stone, copper and even wood.
Also, bathtubs differ from each other in shape. The most common is the bath rectangular shape. However, there are also round side baths -
which bring additional aesthetics to the bathroom, however, when choosing this type of bathroom, you need to remember that the water in it easily overflows,
therefore, there should be at least 5-10 cm between the bathtub and the walls in order to provide easy access for collecting spilled water.
Round bathtub installed in a frame in the interior of the bathroom
In addition, it is advisable to use special curtains, the edges of which descend into the bathtub on each side.
Before installing the bathtub, you should ensure that the surface on which the bathtub is mounted is perfectly flat. If necessary, apply a screed, or
special leveling solution. It makes sense to combine a bathtub replacement with a bathroom renovation. In this case, the floor is laid with tiles.
After this, it is necessary to allow the surface to dry thoroughly (at least 2-3 days) and only after that proceed to further work.
The next step is to lay the tiles on the walls. We recommend laying tiles completely over the entire wall, including in those places that will be hidden by the bathroom.
It is quite understandable to want to save money by skipping places under the bathtub that are not visible to the eye, but in this case, the next time you install a bathtub, you will have to
also change the tiles.
When installation of a steel bath, first the bathtub is installed, and then the tiles are laid.
In the bathroom, the bathtub is brought vertically; the threshold of the rooms is first laid with something soft. The bath is located 70-80 cm.
Installation of a drain-overflow system for a bathtub
from the installation site, drain hole towards the taps, and then the drainage system is installed.
Often, the drain works on the principle of a drain-overflow system. Installation begins with the installation of a drain funnel. The funnel is installed in the drain hole
baths (before this, we recommend inner side apply sealant to the funnel rings), put a sealing rubber ring on the back side
and a pressure (usually plastic or metal) ring.
Then the system is secured with a clamping screw - while making sure that the o-ring does not warp.
Then we screw a tee to the external thread of the funnel, so that the side outlet faces the nearest wall. When installing a tee, do not
We forget to seal it with O-rings and clamping rings.
Video: DIY bathroom installation
We install the overflow grid in a similar way, connecting it to the overflow tube, if necessary, reduce its length, cut off the upper part of the overflow
tubes. When the drainage system is ready, we install the supports (legs) of the bathtub and mount the bathtub on them. The installation technology is as follows:
the first support is installed, the bathtub is carefully laid on it, then the opposite edge of the bathtub is raised, and the second supports are placed under it.
Then we connect the drainage system to the sewer system. After this, we move the bathtub to the wall, and using a level and adjusting screws on the legs of the bathtub,
We achieve a horizontal position of the bath. Then we check the tightness of the system.
This is done in two stages: first, pour water into the bathtub and drain it; if there is no leak, fill the bathtub with water and close the plug. If in this
If there is no leak, then the bathtub is installed correctly, you can begin installing the mixer.
Installing a faucet in the bathroom