Narrow beds using the mid-lider method. Features of the mitlider technology of narrow beds in the greenhouse Vegetables according to the mitlider

Modern cultivation garden crops and land cultivation are increasingly taking place using the latest technical achievements, botany and chemistry. Many people are wary of the use of chemical developments, fearing that they will worsen the quality of the crop and increase the level of nitrates. But such a compromise as methods of organic vegetable growing with a closed cycle, in which even mineral fertilizers are not used, has already gained a lot of fans among summer residents.

In addition to organic vegetable growing, modern gardeners also resort to the Mittleider method to increase yield. This method is based on the judicious use of mineral fertilizers that are needed, combined with the organization of conditions for the natural processing of these fertilizers. Plants grown using the Mitlider method are stronger, tasty and juicy, and their nitrate content is an order of magnitude lower than allowed by standards. So let's understand what this method of growing crops is in detail.

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You've certainly seen the perfect lawn in a movie, on an alley, or perhaps on your neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area on their site will no doubt say that this is a huge amount of work. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, and watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think this way; professionals have long known about the innovative product - liquid lawn AquaGrazz.

Dr. J. Mittleider is a scientist who has practiced growing plants for more than 20 years to increase yields for increased commercial profit.

Mitlider was engaged in growing not only vegetables, but also flowers. The scientist patented 11 of his developments. His developments include not only cultivation methods, but also methods for packaging and delivering plants alive over long distances.

This scientist has traveled all over the world studying nutrition issues. He also visited Russia, back in the days of the USSR, which led him to the idea that the growing methods and technologies that he developed could be used in our climate.

One of the popular methods that Mitlider has developed is the bed arrangement method.

This growing method can be used for different crops. It is quite simple and does not require any equipment to use it. According to the Mitlider method, vegetables can be grown both in the garden and in the greenhouse.

Basic distinctive feature the beds that are made according to the scientist’s method are that they are narrow, as shown in the photo:

In general, growing vegetables using the Mitlider method is based on three principles.

Mandatory limitation of the territory for plant nutrition, which is achieved through narrow beds - 0.5 by 9 m.

1. Forced feeding with mineral fertilizers.
2. Use of seedlings.
3. Use of artificial substrate.

By dividing the garden into narrow beds, you can achieve the necessary optimization of space and its proper use. Using this method, you need to choose a place and create narrow beds on it. When planning to plant a vegetable garden using the Mitlider method, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

• Lighting beds sun rays- from the very morning until at least 18-00; if your garden is located in such a way that this is impossible, then - from noon until the end of the day.
• It is advisable to create narrow beds near a water source.
• It is advisable to choose light, medium or loamy soil for the beds.
• To create beds using the Mitlider method, you need to mark out the garden with pegs into narrow beds 45 cm wide and 9 m long. If the garden is shorter than 9 m, then the length can be chosen arbitrarily. The beds should be located at a distance of 90 cm from each other (diagram in the photo).

• Having marked the beds, you need to secure a cord between the pegs.
• The prepared substrate is poured on top of the soil, and then the bed is shallowly dug.
• After digging, we rake the soil to the center, and then distribute it over the surface of the bed, but in such a way that 10 cm sides are formed.
• You need to distribute the soil with a rake so that the height of the bed inside the side is no higher than the soil in the walkway.
• A slight slope is made along the length of the bed, which will ensure better watering.

You need to sow seeds and plant vegetables in these beds in two rows. Tomatoes, zucchini and cucumbers are planted in such a garden in one row, clearly in the center of the garden bed. You need to fertilize once every 10 days.

Potatoes according to Mittleider

Growing potatoes using the Mitlider method can even provide you with a double harvest if the weather conditions of the region allow and the garden is well lit.

The narrow beds inherent in this method will provide you with a yield 15% higher than a vegetable garden planted using the conventional method, and they will take up less space. Look at the photo to see what these potato beds look like:

Landing

1. To plant potatoes according to Mittleider, you need to select a flat area that is illuminated by the sun all day long.
2. Then you need to dig up the ground well and remove weeds and rhizomes.
3. Then make the markings as described above.
4. After the beds are prepared, we will need to make holes in which we will plant the potatoes.
5. The holes are made in two rows, in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between them is 30 cm, and their depth is from 8 to 10 cm. 1 tbsp is added to each hole. l. vermicompost.
6. After this, potatoes are placed in the hole and covered with earth.

Care

Having planted potatoes, it is necessary to provide them with certain care. Potatoes will be needed in a timely manner

• water,
• feed,
• destroy weeds.

It is very important to ensure that the soil in which the potatoes are planted does not dry out too much, and that each bush receives the same amount of moisture and fertilizer. Fertilizing is applied first when the potatoes have sprouted, and then when their sprouts reach 15 cm, and then - before the potatoes begin to form fruits. According to the Mitlider method, potatoes do not hill, and narrow beds will provide them with the necessary nutrients.

Arranging a greenhouse using the Mittlaider method

Practical structures and growing vegetables in a greenhouse using the Mittleider method have found a lot of fans among gardeners all over the world. You can make a greenhouse according to Mitlider with your own hands, or you can purchase a ready-made one.

1. Such greenhouses are simply installed and create the necessary conditions for plant growth and protect seedlings from temperature changes.
2. Its main difference and feature is that the greenhouse has ventilation holes, which are formed using unusual looking roofs.
3. The roof is gable, and on the north side it is made with a steep slope.

With this arrangement, the roof slopes do not converge at the top, as shown in the video:

Mitlider greenhouses come in several types.

Classic-looking greenhouse

Greenhouse classic look It has a vertical wall arrangement, a gable roof and a special hole for ventilation.

1. According to standards, it is 12 m long, 6 m wide, and 1.8 m high at the side, but the dimensions may vary.
2. The main advantage of the greenhouse is its ventilation, which is easy to use.
3. The large area of ​​the transom allows warm air to circulate, mixing with cool air, and distributes it throughout the greenhouse.

You can see what a greenhouse of this type looks like in the video on the Internet and the photo below.

Arched greenhouses made of film

The second type of greenhouses made using this method are arched greenhouses made of film. They are structurally simpler than the classic ones, and making such a greenhouse with your own hands will be easier.

1. Unlike standard arched greenhouses, the Mittleider greenhouse has ventilation that allows air to flow even when the door is closed.
2. Such ventilation is provided by a two-level pitched roof.

What does this look like? arched greenhouse, you can see in photos and videos on the Internet.

Greenhouses with two transoms

The third type of greenhouse according to Mittlaider is equipped with two transoms, which are located on the south side of the structure.

• One transom is made under the slope,
• the other is under the ridge, as in the video:

The main advantage of all greenhouses is the presence of a special ventilation system, which allows air to circulate intensively and evenly, and this allows you to ventilate the room and enrich it with carbon dioxide.

1. The location of the transom on the south side will allow you to avoid hypothermia of the crops growing in the greenhouse.
2. The strong frame of the structure will protect your greenhouse garden from gusts of wind.
3. Beams and braces located along the perimeter provide the greenhouse with stability even from snowdrifts.

Greenhouse made of wood

You can make a Mittleider greenhouse with your own hands from wood. The wooden structure will prevent condensation from accumulating. The horizontally located beams are taller than human height, which ensures ease of use. These beams can also be used as supports for cucumbers and other climbing crops. A sufficient greenhouse volume will create optimal conditions and increase plant resistance. The required temperature conditions are created using two layers of polyethylene, which are located at a distance of 5 - 7 cm from one another. The greenhouse is easy to assemble with your own hands, and if necessary, it can be moved to another place (pictured).

Metal greenhouse

A Mittlaider greenhouse can be made not only of wood, but also of metal. Before starting construction, you need to choose a well-lit place on an area with a fairly flat surface.

Mittleider created methods for growing vegetables both in open ground and in greenhouses. His methods ensure the optimization of space for crop growth, required amount moisture and fertilizers for each plant. By applying his methods, you will get good harvests. Good luck to you!

You can watch the video to see how to build a greenhouse according to Mittleider with your own hands:

For more than three years now, American vegetable grower Dr. Jacob Mittlider and his colleagues have been working in the village of Zaoksky, Tula Region. He teaches students of the agricultural department of the seminary and others from all over (including Minsk) his method of growing vegetable crops and potatoes.

Is the method based on balanced nutrition of plants and constant attention to them? original landing geometry. Dr. Mittlider's technology makes it possible to obtain high yields with minimal costs time and labor and with the least amount of nitrates. The doctor believes that on a small personal plot No equipment is needed; a shovel, rake, hoe and, as a last resort, a walk-behind tractor with a rototiller are sufficient.

We do not comment on or discuss the technology of growing vegetables using the Mittlider method. The traditionally established technology for growing vegetable crops in the republic differs significantly from the methods of American vegetable growers. The reader can compare our traditional technology with the one proposed by Dr. Mittlider. At the end of the year, it will be possible to exchange the results of work on at least one crop.

He uses only mineral fertilizers and does not use herbicides ( chemicals to control weeds), but does not completely abandon insecticides and fungicides (chemical agents for controlling pests and pathogens), although they are used sparingly and only when urgently needed.

Mittlider's vegetable garden cannot be confused with any other. Narrow, strictly horizontal, long ridges are on the same level with unusually wide passages. On the ridges you can see crops of different ages at the same time: some of them are ripe, others are still growing, and others are just being planted. There are no weeds, the garden is unbelievably clean and beautiful. Plants respond to care with a generous harvest. Vegetables are sweet, juicy, aromatic, rich in vitamins and other valuable nutrients. The cultivation technology is extremely simple and unified, suitable for different crops, soils and climatic zones, and requires less labor and time.

It is based on proper, balanced nutrition of plants with mixtures of mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers (manure, compost, vermicompost, etc.) are not used. Dr. Mittlider believes that with a balanced diet (the correct ratio between macro-, microelements and magnesium), the geometry of the beds providing the plants with sufficient living space and good lighting, the absence of weeds, and regular watering, no additional techniques are required to reduce the level of nitrates in products. In such conditions, plants grow quickly, effectively convert nitrates into proteins, and form a high yield of excellent quality. Application organic fertilizers, according to Dr. Mittlider, it is dangerous on soils contaminated with radioactive and toxic substances, as well as heavy metals. When adding composts or manure, we ourselves return radioactive and other harmful substances into the soil that were previously absorbed from the soil. Processing poisoned organic residues into vermicompost does not solve the problem either. Plants will again absorb these substances and again they will end up on our table. And here the Mittlider method also has its advantages over the traditional technology of growing vegetable plants.

Now let’s look in more detail at some of the intricacies of gardening using the Mittlider method.

To provide themselves with vegetables, a family of four needs 150 m2 of land. Approximately the same area should be allocated for potatoes. The soil on the site must be carefully dug up and all the roots and rhizomes of perennial weeds must be removed. The entire area allocated for vegetables and potatoes is divided into separate strips-beds 45 cm wide with a passage of 75-105 cm. The length of the beds can be from 4.5 to 18 meters. For small area ridges 4.5 m long are convenient. On 150 m (1.5 acres of land) you can place 20-22 such ridges with meter-long paths along the edges. Required condition- the ridges must be absolutely horizontal. The ridges are located along the north-south axis.

On the day of sowing seeds or planting seedlings, the soil is fertilized and ridges are formed. Fertilizers are scattered onto a narrow strip of earth 45 cm wide and 4.5 m long: 0.45 kg of mixture No. 1 and 0.225 kg of mixture No. 2. (Mixture No. 1: 5 kg of slaked lime, chalk or dolomite flour, 50 g of borax or 35 g of boric acid. Mixture No. 2: 3 kg of nitroammophoska (labeled 17-17-17), 225-450 g of magnesium sulfate, 5-15 g of borax or boric acid, 5-15 g of ammonium molybdate. The mixture cannot be stored for more than one month. Mixture No. 2 can be replaced with ready-made complex fertilizer ROST-2, adding to it 50 g of magnesium sulfate, 2 g of borax and 1.5 g of ammonium molybdate for each kilogram. Application rate per 1 sq. m - 0.25 kg as pre-sowing fertilizer and 0.20-0.25 kg when fertilizing.

After applying the fertilizer, the soil is carefully dug up with a shovel or pitchfork to a depth of 20 cm and ridges are formed. Along the edges and ends of a narrow (45 cm) ridge, sides are made 8-10 cm high. Inner space between the sides (30-35 cm) should be perfectly flat. Before sowing seeds along each side with inside make one shallow groove (3-5 cm) with a hoe. Small seeds (carrots, parsley, dill and others) are mixed with sand or sawdust (10 g of seeds per 1 liter of slightly moistened sand or sawdust) and scattered into prepared grooves. The seeds are sprinkled with sand on top. The depth of seed placement should be 2.5-4 times greater than their thickness. The top of the row is covered with strips of burlap (so that the seeds do not move when watering). As soon as the seeds hatch, the burlap is removed. The largest seeds are sown separately - peas at a distance of 5 cm, beans - 10 cm. Tomato seedlings are planted in one row at a distance of 17.5 cm from each other. The crop is tied to a trellis in one stem, removing all the shoots. Seedlings of cabbage and cauliflower, head lettuce and celery are planted every 35 cm in two rows in a checkerboard pattern, and pumpkin, zucchini, squash and other large crops are planted every 70 cm in one row, along one of the sides. Tall plants are planted on the north side of low-growing ones.

7-10 days after sowing (planting), the plants begin to be fed. For each ridge 4.5 m long, apply 180-225 g of mixture No. 2. Dry fertilizers are scattered in a narrow strip over the soil surface in the center of the ridge and watered until they are completely dissolved. When using hose irrigation, put a fabric bag or nylon stocking on the end of the hose. the number of feedings depends on the crop: radishes and turnips are fed 2 times per season; beets, potatoes - 3-4 times; cabbage, lettuce, carrots, pumpkin, onions, peas, beans - 4-5 times; cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini - 6-8 times.

When growing plants, the soil near them is not loosened no matter the weather. The fact is that the roots of crops grown using the Mittlider method are located very close to the soil surface and can be damaged even with the most careful loosening.

When weeds appear, they are destroyed as early as possible, when they are very tiny. For this purpose, the sides of the ridge are broken into wide passages with the back of the rake, and then new sides are made from the same soil. Weed seedlings are damaged and die. In the center of narrow ridges, weeds almost do not grow due to the high concentration of fertilizers. Weeds on paths (passages) are removed regularly. The passages are never dug up, so the seeds of weeds located deep in the soil, although they remain viable, will not be able to germinate. After 2-3 years, the garden begins to forget about the existence of weeds. Subsequently, from year to year, the narrow ridges and passages do not change places.

When growing vegetables in very small areas, on rocky soil, slopes, or in a greenhouse, it is advisable to use the box-bed method. These boxes without a bottom are placed on soil that has been cleared of perennial weeds and leveled. Boxes can be any length and width, but standard height- 20 cm. The boxes are filled with an artificial soil mixture, in the simplest case - a mixture of sawdust and sand (3:1) with the addition of fertilizer mixtures No. 1 and No. 2. From year to year, the soil mixture in the boxes is not changed, but only added to the previous level.

Narrow ridges and ridge boxes can be easily covered with plastic film in unfavorable weather conditions.

During the season, in Mittlider's garden you can get two harvests of cauliflower, broccoli, peas, beans, lettuce, and beets. In mid-summer, these crops, with the exception of peas, are planted as seedlings, as in spring.

Potatoes are also grown on narrow ridges 45 cm wide with passages of at least 75 cm, 9 m long. On the day of planting, mixtures of fertilizers No. 1 and No. 2 are applied to undug soil, the soil is dug up and ridges with sides are formed. Pre-sprouted tubers weighing 50-70 g are planted in holes 6 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm in two rows on the inside of the sides. When seedlings appear, with an interval of 7-10 days, the plants are fed 3-4 times with mixture No. 2, followed by watering. In dry weather, water even after finishing fertilizing. Potatoes especially need watering during the period of bud formation and flowering. Mittlider potatoes also do not loosen or hill up. And during the budding period, he recommends mulching with a 2-3 cm layer of peat or sawdust.

There are 8 ridges on one hundred square meters. To sow, you need to have 25-35 kg of potatoes (490 tubers). From each ridge, up to 70 kg of potatoes are harvested (550-560 kg per hundred square meters).

The Mittlider method saves a lot of time. With some experience, it takes about an hour in the morning to care for the garden every day. With the usual practice of visiting the plot on weekends, Mittlider recommends visiting the garden again in the middle of the week to water the beds and destroy the weeds in time.

Read other articles on this topic here.

Doctor Mitlider’s views on arranging beds to obtain a rich and tasty harvest are popular because they allow you to achieve results without a fatal increase in costs. “Mittleider in Russian” are beautiful, neat greenhouses and narrow ridges, well-equipped with my own hands. The reader is provided with detailed drawings, which will help to plan the territory using Mitlayder technology, and instructions for action in video format.

• Mittleider's vegetable garden is a paradise and a delight for the eyes for greenery
• Where to start: drawing of the future plantation
• Tape measure, rope and pegs - marking the boundaries of the ridges
• In order for a plant to feed us, we first need to feed it
• Features of watering mitlider ridges
• How to arrange a Mittleider vegetable garden in the Russian version
• Beds according to Mitlider - photo
• Vegetable garden using the Mittleider method - video

Mittleider's vegetable garden is a paradise and a delight for the eyes for greenery

Doctor Mitlaider based his own method on his personal experience of half a century as a practicing agronomist, excellent knowledge and observation of plant physiology. The method takes into account scientific ideas about the natural needs of a green creature: the correct proportions of microelements, optimal humidity, abundant light for forced synthesis of carbohydrates.

Where to start: drawing of the future plantation

No matter how unusual, the main thing in Mittleider’s garden is not the scheme for filling the soil with fertilizers, not the organization of irrigation according to lunar calendar, but strategically verified strict planning and marking of the work site. Everything depends on the passages and the configuration of the ridges between them: cleanliness depends on weed species, and the irrigation regime, and the delivery to each shoot of its portion of life-giving sunlight.

From this there is a conclusion: in order not to be disappointed, not to take stunted parsnips and unpleasant carrots, first you need to set aside a day in your busy schedule, draw a detailed plan for your own lands and be sure to mark the sides of the horizon on it, in order to always keep a “pencil” of the illumination in morning, noon and evening time.

The ridges should be located in the direction of the meridians, i.e. along the “north-south” line, so that they are not shaded by anything.

First of all, you need to plan the placement of future beds

To save water and distribute it evenly, the beds need to be leveled. The more their surface resembles the surface of a forest pond, the less competition the plants will experience from their own fellow plants.

Midlider method

In areas with a slope, it is advisable to arrange terraces similar to those that are laid out in mountainous areas.

Each step of such a terrace will need to be reinforced with a board.

Stony, exhausted, excessive clay soils– a vegetable grower’s headache. It is useless to use natural soil in such inconveniences; it will not pay for the required work. Instead of simple beds, wide boxes without a bottom are installed here and filled with a loose mixture of very small sawdust, peat and river sand.

Perlite or vermiculite, which are capable of absorbing and then slowly releasing moisture, will be good components of such unnatural soil.

Tape measure, rope and pegs - marking the boundaries of the ridges

In classical vegetable growing, narrow row spacing and wide beds are common. Mitlider's method assumes exactly the opposite: narrow ridges with very wide row spacing. At first glance, such a plan is futile, because most of the plantation is deserted and unproductive. But long “field testing” proved that the less numerous plants of Mittleider’s garden are more than superior in productivity to the usual thickened plantings, and for this reason:

• plants make maximum use of the leaf mosaic, and not a single shoot appears shaded from the sun;
• the row spacing remains dry and trampled, which eliminates the appearance of wild vegetation;
• the “ridge-between-row” size ratio allows you to inspect any specimen and quickly detect troubles in the form of chlorosis, necrosis, other troubles and nests of pests;
• crops actively photosynthesize and quickly convert soil nutrition elements into the necessary substances; accordingly, they do not accumulate nitrates.

A good size for a narrow ridge is 30-35 cm.

A good size for a narrow ridge is 30-35 cm at any length that fits into the dimensions of the site. Lush crops - pumpkins, zucchini, white cabbage - are planted on it in one line, small ones - onions, dill, carrots - in two lines. Any ridge is framed by an earthen side, the height and width of which are increased to 10 cm.

Row spacing is left 100-105 cm wide.

Tip: If the soil is loose, the sides can be replaced with formwork made of boards or slate. This will prevent erosion of the edges of the ridge and give the garden or greenhouse a neat, pleasing appearance.

In order for a plant to feed us, we first need to feed it

The Mittleider method involves the systemic use of two mixtures of mineral fertilizers. Mixture No. 1 – lime with boron. Mixture No. 2 is the invention of the doctor Mittleider. It consists of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in a ratio of 1.8:1:1.8, and magnesium, molybdenum and boron.

Both mixtures can be purchased or prepared independently.

Mixture No. 1 of lime and boron is added to the planting of seedlings and seed day

The first time, both mixtures should go into the ground exactly on the day of sowing seeds or planting seedlings. This will not allow weeds whose seeds have already begun to sprout to take advantage of nutrition. They are added per linear meter of bed:

• mixture No. 1 – 100 g on sandy soils and 200 g on clay soils;
• mixture No. 2 - 30 g on sandy soils and 50 g on clay soils;

Feeding during the growing season is carried out with mixture No. 2 weekly in hot summers and once every 10 days in cool summers. The norm is 25-40 g per linear meter.

Attention! The most affectionate, absorbing parts of the roots will be located in the upper 5 cm of the soil, in the place where there is the most food for them. In order not to tear them, forget about loosening them.

Features of watering mitlider ridges

The root complex of most vegetable crops lacks additional irrigation. This nuance of agricultural technology developed by Mitlider has certain highlights:

• high frequency - in the absence of loosening, which destroys the crust and restores soil capillaries, plants are supplied with water almost daily;
• only root watering, no sprinkling, which provokes the invasion and rapid growth of weeds and fungal diseases;
• only the ridges - the row spacing - must remain dry; for this purpose, sides are erected near the ridges.

Watering the beds according to the mitlider is carried out only by the root method

It is possible to water the Mittleider garden at any time of the day, but in August evening watering is excluded to avoid infection with powdery mildew. In greenhouses they are trying to establish drip irrigation.

Attention! A lack of fluid constantly leads to a lack of harvest, because water molecules are specifically involved in the chemical reactions of photosynthesis.

How to arrange a Mittleider vegetable garden in the Russian version

Any development manifests itself impeccably only in the place where it originated and was improved.

When trying to transfer it to another environment, nuances appear that require a fair amount of local knowledge and specific ingenuity.

Russian private vegetable growers are faced with two questions regarding the method of the doctor Mittleider.

1. Modest plots - a good 6 acres - and low incomes force us to reconsider the size of row spacing. For tomatoes, cucumbers, grapes, the width of the passages is left no more than 90 cm, and for short radishes, beets, strawberries - in addition, 65 cm. Along with this, the width of the beds themselves must remain unchanged: 35 cm at the sides, otherwise the very idea disappears for vegetable gardening - a constant stream of light on any leaf.
2. A negative attitude towards mineral fertilizers leads to their replacement with compost, manure, potassium humate and wood ash. Often the earth is dug up with green manure: peas, clover, mustard. Green manure can be sown between apple trees or mowed in floodplain meadows and used to prepare liquid fertilizer. To do this, two-thirds of the grass is placed in a barrel and filled with water. The infusion obtained after one and a half to seven days is diluted ten times with water and used for irrigation.

Owners' experience summer cottages suggests that the method of doctor Mitlaider is fully applicable in Russian conditions and is easily adapted to the climate of Kaliningrad or Siberia. Narrow ridges are easy to cultivate while sitting on a folding chair; the condition of the plants on them can be easily monitored on a daily basis. The Russian version of the method allows you to combine the commendable commitment and moderate labor intensity of summer residents to organic matter, which is especially important for older people.

Beds according to Mitlider - photo

Vegetable garden using the Mittleider method - video

Growing tomatoes.

Development of harvest abundance (according to the Mittlider method) 2

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Frozen vegetable mixture: types and composition, benefits and harms, calorie content

A vegetable pit can be made by any home craftsman with your own hands, the main thing is to choose the materials, as well as decide on the technology for carrying out the work.

Preparatory stage

Before constructing the structure described, you must make sure that no engineering Communication by type of electrical cables, pipes and gas pipelines.

Builders must examine the soil to determine the level of groundwater. The latter should be below the bottom of the cellar. Otherwise, the structure may be flooded. As practice shows, you should not create vegetable pits that are too wide. It is necessary to keep within 2.5 meters. The depth is usually 1.7 meters.

It is desirable that such a cellar be located at some distance from the wall. It is necessary to retreat approximately 0.6 meters from the surface; this will subsequently allow reliable waterproofing of the pit. When you make a vegetable pit with your own hands, it is insulated. The procedure for arranging a ventilation system and carrying out work to protect against moisture is mandatory.

Technology by interior design you can develop it yourself, everything will depend on individual requirements. The descent into the structure must be made in the form of a wooden staircase with strong rungs. It should be covered with a hatch, which will act as an entrance to the cellar.

Construction of vegetable storage

A vegetable pit with your own hands begins to be built by digging a pit, which should have dimensions according to the project. A 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone is laid at its bottom. This pillow must be compacted, and then pour 15 centimeters of sand. The resulting preparation is compacted, and at the next stage bitumen or a similar composition is poured. If it is necessary to arrange a permanent vegetable storage facility, a waterproofing material similar to roofing material is placed on the sand. In this case, the next stage is reinforcement and pouring of concrete. However, the arrangement of such a foundation will be accompanied by additional labor and financial costs. The walls of the pit are made of brick. When making a vegetable pit with your own hands, the walls must be laid in one and a half pieces. The bricks are treated with bitumen mortar, which guarantees the reliability of the floors. The ceiling is laid out in the form of a vault. The bricks are mounted on templates, which should first be made from wooden planks. You can additionally make a concrete floor. The main rule is that the ceiling has the required power, since a car will probably stand on it (if we are talking about a pit under a garage).

For reference

A place for entry should be provided on the ceiling surface. The most suitable option is to locate the hole in the central part. In this case, shelves and racks for cans can easily fit into the storage area. In the place where the hole is supposed to be located, it is necessary to install a stop for the lid. The ceiling is thermally insulated using foam plastic or expanded clay. The ceiling surface is coated with hot bitumen, and then the selected material is installed.

If you are wondering how to make a vegetable pit with your own hands, then it is important to think about thermal insulation of the upper part of the cellar. The insulation layer must be 20 centimeters or more thick. You can take advantage of the experience of rural residents who insulate the ceiling of such storage facilities using a mixture of cement and sawdust. As an alternative solution, glass wool can be used.

If the garage is built in an area with a mild climate, then thermal insulation may not be provided. If you need to give the ceiling surface of the pit an attractive appearance, you can use the method of installing modern facing materials such as lining or slate. These products are fixed to the ceiling surface using the technology recommended by the manufacturer. The walls need to be thermally insulated with polystyrene foam. The vegetable pit in the garage is made with your own hands in such a way that the insulation is carried out over a pre-plastered surface.

Arrangement of vegetable storage

The pit must be waterproofed. It may be necessary to carry out work to form a circular drainage system. Such measures are carried out when groundwater is located too close to the bottom. Maximum simple method protection floor surface treatment with a bitumen solution is considered to protect against exposure to water. For reliability, it is best to apply the material in two layers. Roofing felt is laid on the bitumen, and then the solution is laid again. On final stage It is poured onto roofing felt, where coarse sand should be used. If you do not want to treat the walls of the storage facility with traditional bitumen, then you can resort to more expensive waterproofing by purchasing a penetrating compound. Before you build a vegetable pit with your own hands, you must design a ventilation system, which is installed at the final stage. The easiest way would be to install a natural supply and exhaust system, for which you need to prepare two pipes. One of them will serve for exhaust, while the other will serve for the supply of fresh air. If you are not afraid of additional financial costs, then you can install a forced ventilation system, but for this you will have to purchase an electric fan, which is installed in a pipe with two doors. At this point, we can assume that the brick vegetable pit has been made with your own hands and is ready for use.

Construction of a metal cellar

This design is made even before the construction of the garage, since it can be implemented into finished building it will be quite difficult. The shape of the product can be any, everything will depend on your preferences and requirements.

Growing carrots according to Mittleider

You can weld such a vegetable storage facility yourself; there should be no holes or cracks in the welding areas, as water can penetrate through them. The walls are made of metal, but for the top you can use different materials, such as wood, slabs or slabs. Such a cellar may have two manholes, one of which will be more impressive in size and intended for lowering and lifting products, while the other will be used by humans. When is vegetable iron pit do it yourself, then to prevent the formation of condensation, it is recommended to protect the floors, walls and ceiling with insulating material.

Installation of the structure in the pit

The metal box must first be coated with an anti-corrosion compound, as well as waterproofing materials, for which mastic or bitumen can be used. The dimensions of the prepared pit should be 50 centimeters larger than the box itself on each side. The bottom of the dug hole is leveled and compacted, then a waterproofing clay cushion 25 centimeters thick is laid on it. An additional layer of concrete of insignificant thickness is poured on top. The construction of a vegetable pit with your own hands is accompanied by the installation of wooden formwork between the metal cellar and the wall of the pit. Clay is placed between the box and the boards, which is pre-cut into plates. After filling the hollow space and compacting the material, you can begin to backfill the excavated soil.

Caisson for cellar

If you need a vegetable pit, you can install a caisson with your own hands. On sale today you can find similar designs from different materials. This can be a prefabricated reinforced concrete structure, a metal caisson or a product made of plastic. In the latter case, carry out additional processing no cellar required. The design is lightweight, and its installation can be carried out independently, while involving construction equipment will not need. For several decades, the plastic caisson will endure negative impacts.

Installation Features

Before installation plastic caisson must be implemented external thermal insulation, since the temperature difference between outside and inside can be impressive, which will certainly cause condensation to form on the walls. Installation of such a product is carried out on a clay pillow, the thickness of which should be approximately 20 centimeters. It is important to prevent water from getting into the hole before installing the caisson, otherwise the product will begin to float. If such a problem does arise, you will need to additionally install a hydraulic lock; for this, the gaps between the walls and edges of the pit are filled with clay, as in the case described above. Waterproofing is performed below the soil freezing depth.

What does a self-leveling floor consist of and is it possible to make a mixture?

Homemade vegetable carving

Compound feed for laying hens

Molasses for fishing

Fruit bouquets

How to cook

Frozen

Liquid wallpaper

/ BUZ VO “Medical Unit “Severstal” Cherepovets

Home » Questions and Answers » Strawberries » Strawberries: growing according to Mittleider

Strawberries: growing according to Mittleider

It is one of the most popular garden berries among most plant growers around the world. She owes it to this pleasant aroma and excellent taste. Many gardeners are engaged in growing crops, using a variety of technologies. One of the simplest and most effective methods is considered to be planting and growing strawberries according to Mitlider, some of the nuances of which we will consider in this article.

Features of growing strawberries using the Mittleider method

The main goal of the Mittleider technology is to provide the plant with the necessary microelements for proper nutrition, creating the best soil cultivation environment while reducing overall labor costs, resulting in a high-quality and high yield. The technique involves two methods of cultivation: in boxes-beds and in unprotected soil on narrow ridges.

In general, growing strawberries according to Mittleider has a number of advantages:

1) saving time and resources when caring for the plant;
2) minimum number of weeds in the beds;
3) harvesting several times per season;
4) providing the culture with all necessary nutritional elements;
5) the ability to apply technology in different climatic conditions.

Narrow beds for strawberries

As with the cultivation of other crops, narrow mitlayder beds for strawberries are created here, which are used mainly in open ground, but can also be used in greenhouses. In the classic version, they measure 45 cm wide and 9 m long. However, the latter value may vary depending on the size of the plot.

The passages between the edges (ends) of the beds according to Mitlider are 105 cm, between the sides 90 cm, the side ones, if necessary, can be reduced to 75 cm. This method is economical in terms of the absence of fencing materials in comparison with box-beds.

Boxes-beds for strawberries

Another way strawberries can grow according to Mittleider is to use boxes when creating beds. Their use is possible not only in open ground, but also in greenhouses and other enclosed spaces. Bed boxes allow you to grow strawberries even on rocky terrain. Both artificial mixtures and those mixed with the top layer of soil can be used as soil.

Mitlider beds - boxes are a box-shaped structure without a bottom. The width of the boxes is 120 - 150 cm. The width of the passages is the same as the narrow beds - between the boxes 90 cm (sides), and from the end part - 150 cm.

Planting strawberries for seedlings according to Mittleider

In order to grow a good harvest of strawberries, it is important to choose the right strawberries, namely varieties that are optimal for the growing area, this is addressed Special attention and is celebrated as the first right step towards a good harvest.

Since strawberries are quite unpretentious to the acidity of the soil, the author did not provide any special recommendations for preparing the soil for seedlings. To grow strawberry seedlings, Mittleider used square trays 45 * 45 cm and 7 - 10 cm high.

Fertilizer mixtures are applied to the soil on the day of planting.

Mitlider method - vegetable growing in small areas

Usage mineral fertilizer promotes rapid growth of the root system. For this purpose, the author of the method recommended using the so-called composition No. 1. It includes lime (dolomite or chalk) 900 grams, nitroammophoska NPK 16-16-16 - 450 grams and boron 10-15 grams. The resulting quantity is the norm for a standard mitlayder area of ​​45 cm wide and 9 m long (4 sq. m.).

Next, the soil surface is leveled, the seeds are sown at a distance of 4 cm from each other, and then the trays are brought into a warm room for 2 weeks. Soil moisture is constantly maintained. After this time, shoots should appear. From this point on, strawberries need lighting to continue to grow; among other things, long-term lighting of the crops is emphasized by Dr. Mittleider as a very important need.

After a month, you can make the first fertilizing of the crop with mixture No. 2. The main components of this composition are urea (1 kg), potassium sulfate (1 kg), lime (450 g), magnesium (10 g), molybdenum (10 g), boron (10 g). For 1 sq.m. area, 65 - 75 grams of this composition are used. To grow on a personal plot in open ground, it is enough to carry out 1 - 2 feedings.

Planting strawberry seedlings in the ground in central Russia is usually done in the month of May; planting dates in other regions depend on the climatic conditions of a particular area. The distance between seedlings should be 30 - 35 cm.

Meatlider: soil protection

The Mitlider method involves mulching, namely the use of a special mixture as the top layer of soil, in the recesses of which the plants will be planted. ready seedlings. Upper layer The soil is made from a mixture of sand and rotted sawdust in a ratio of 1:3 (any sawdust, but not oak). This mixture is poured onto soil 5–7 cm high.

Thanks to its use, the natural soil under this blanket will always be moist and soft, and this is where the main development of the strawberry root system takes place. If the mulch mixture settles, then fresh mulching mixture is added. Over time, humus forms in the soil and the soil structure improves.

Watering strawberries

Title: Technology of abundance: Vegetable growing according to Mittlider

Genre:Documentary

Tags:documentary, educational

Description:

Issued by: TRK "Three Angels"

Description: This film will be useful to everyone interested in vegetable growing. It is not necessary to have any experience in vegetable growing. At the same time, experienced vegetable growers and commercial farmers will also benefit greatly from the Mittlider Method presented in this course. The course includes all stages - from preparing the soil for seeds to harvesting.
Jacob R. Mittlider is an international expert on agriculture, the creator of a universal method of vegetable growing, the use of which gives high yields in any climatic region. Mittlider's method allows a family of four to fully provide themselves with vegetables from a garden of only one and a half hundred square meters.
Content
01. Dr. Mittlider's method
02. Seed treatment
03. Preparation for sowing
04. Healthy seedlings
05. Greenhouse according to all the rules
06. Narrow ridges
07. Site layout
08. Landing in the ground
09. Weed control
10. Growing tomatoes
11. Growing cucumbers
12. Growing potatoes
13. Classification of fertilizers
14. Organic fertilizers
15.

Mitlider beds: pros and cons of the method

Feeding program
16. Vegetables without nitrates
17. Signs of soil depletion
18. Treatment of plants
19. Results

Not only do beds made using the Mitlider method produce an amazing harvest, they also look very beautiful and aesthetically pleasing on the site

Judging by the fact that the American D. Mittleider is so eager to make human labor easier, he definitely has Russian roots. A creative approach to farming allowed the scientist to develop a unique method for creating beds and become an honorary UN expert on agricultural issues.

The essence of the bed according to the Mitlider method is the cultivation of densely planted vegetables on narrow open beds. There are two types of beds according to Mitlider: earthen shaped rows and box beds with wooden sides. Both methods are good, but for widespread farming, the open method is often chosen, and for small home gardens, the onboard method is often chosen. Let's consider both options, and you will choose the one you need for yourself.

Narrow beds on a large plot

To create narrow beds according to Mitlider, we will look at step-by-step work. The first thing you need to determine is the place for the bed, then mark it with wooden beams and you can proceed to the bed itself.

The scheme for arranging beds using the Mittleider method is quite simple: the sides for the beds are made from any materials, including ordinary soil. The row spacing should be around one meter, and the width of the bed itself should be around half a meter

• Marking the beds. The total width of the bed with an earthen side should be no more than 50 cm. The passage between the beds is about a meter. Taking into account the sides, the landing site itself will be 30 cm - this is optimal width for a successful harvest according to the scientist. The length of the bed will depend only on the individual capabilities of your site. For ease of use, mark wooden blocks length and width of the ridges and stretch a rope between them.
• Preparing beds before planting. First you need to pour a hill of fertile soil 40-50 cm high evenly along the entire length into the center of the marked bed. Next, starting from the middle, we rake the embankment in different directions to the marked edge. We get earthen sides and a depression in the center, which needs to be leveled to 30-35 cm. Only this narrow strip of earth is dug up and processed. The sides are necessary to water the plants as efficiently as possible and retain nutrients at the roots.
• Planting plants. We plant seedlings or crops in 2 rows. Row spacing should not be less than 25 cm in width. This ensures impeccable garden geometry and ease of plant care. Crops with such planting ripen at the same time, which allows farmers to use the bed more than once per season.

Fences for beds according to Mittleider are best made from slate: the material is easy to find and easy to cut out of it into pieces of the required size

The advantages of a soil bed according to Mitlider are obvious:

• Neat and clean garden;
• Maximum effect from watering and fertilizing;
• Harmonious ripening of the crop;
• Convenience of processing beds.

It’s a pleasure to care for narrow beds, and if you also remember what they will soon yield excellent harvest, then you will take up a hoe and a watering can every day

The harvest from the beds is very impressive, which is why this method is so popular among domestic gardeners

Ridges with wooden sides according to the Mittleider method

Box beds can be described as wooden boxes of artificial soil placed on the ground. The sizes of such beds can be either narrow (up to 35 cm) or wide (120-150 cm).

When are wooden beds good?

• Box beds are especially beneficial in places where the soil is often flooded and plant roots rot (lowlands);
• It is also good to place wooden ridges on soils that are unsuitable for growing vegetables (sand, stones, clay, salt marshes, etc.);
• Ready soil is a guarantee of the absence of diseases, pests and weeds;
• The harvest in wooden beds ripens earlier than usual, so they are indispensable in harsh climatic conditions.

It is easy to build wooden beds. You need to make markings as indicated above, prepare long boards (according to the desired length of the bed) and short sides of 30-40 cm.

Mitlider's effective method

Next, we knock the boards into a frame and install them on the markings. The bottom of the bed should be lined with agrofibre or polyethylene. Now you can safely fill our ready-made beds according to Mittleider with artificially selected soil.

Another bed scheme using the Mitlider method with earthen sides: it will take you a couple of days to create such a bed

In the program for growing vegetables using the Mitlider method, one of the main points is the application of the correct fertilizers. According to the scientist, the soil must be fertilized before planting and the crops must be constantly fed until the harvest ripens.

1. Fertilize the soil before planting

Jacob Mittleider is a proponent of the use of mineral and organic fertilizers, but he does not recommend pure manure for preparing the soil for sowing. A mixture of fertile soil with compost and humus is considered ideal for vegetable crops. organic waste. What is the ideal recipe for soil composition before planting?

At the end of summer, on a 10 m2 plot of land, we lay out straw 10-15 cm thick, then a layer of manure - 15-20 cm, then a layer of peat 15-20 cm. Sprinkle everything on top with phosphate rock with lime (1: 1) and again sprinkled with 15-20 cm of manure. Cover all this with a thin layer of earth and leave until spring.

2. Feeding during crop growth

During germination and ripening, vegetables especially need increased nutrition. Fertilizing on narrow ridges should be done weekly. For vegetables and herbs grown using the Mitlider method, the following fertilizer composition is required: potassium and phosphorus in equal parts, nitrogen, molybdenum, magnesium and zinc. Ready-made fertilizers are used at the rate of 60 grams per 1 m of bed.

The main advantage of these beds is their constant quality; over many years, with proper care and proper fertilization, beds using the Mitlider method will give you an excellent harvest

It is not for nothing that Russian agronomists have become so fond of the Mittleider method. Convenient and efficient garden beds produce several times more vegetable yield than conventional soil gardens. You should definitely try this method, and you will see how your weight changes. garden work. Create narrow beds using the Mitlider method and get maximum pleasure from farming and, of course, a rich harvest. Good luck!

Every year, amateur vegetable growers plant many varieties of domestic and foreign vegetables in their garden plots. Farming is fascinating creative process. Its results are aimed at obtaining a sufficient amount of vegetables from a small area of ​​land. The Mittleider method came to the aid of gardeners, spreading throughout all regions and delighting people with good vegetable harvests.

It is based on a process that involves growing plants in narrow beds.

Productivity is growing from year to year, but isn’t it worth devoting all your efforts to what you love?

Advantages of managing according to the Mitlider method

Vegetables are grown both in narrow beds and in boxes.

Dr. Mittleider's technology is convenient and reliable. The area of ​​the vegetable garden for planting is 1.5 acres. Growing technology provides for the availability of water for irrigation and good lighting. Grown vegetables are always of excellent quality, suitable for long-term storage, and environmentally safe. The farming technology using this method is simple. A gardener, with a minimum expenditure of effort and money, will receive an ideal, well-kept garden.

Mitlider's method involves digging up the beds and does not affect other areas. There is no loosening of the soil, weeds appear in the beds occasionally. Grown vegetables are stored in pre-prepared storage facilities.

Vegetables are grown both in narrow beds and in boxes. Bed boxes are suitable for poor soils, rocky and damaged by erosion. The soil in the boxes is artificial, made from a mixture of sand and sawdust. Boxes are appropriate in apartments and greenhouses. They grow: cabbage, tomatoes, greens.

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Setting up a narrow bed in the garden

If a vegetable garden is not a luxury, but a means of subsistence, narrow beds - best way for planting vegetables. The width of the bed is 45 cm, and the distance between them is 90 cm. There are completely no weeds in the rows; vegetables ripen on time and are not susceptible to diseases. The seedlings are fed in a timely and balanced manner with all the necessary elements. Vegetables grown in narrow beds are provided with root nutrition; there is no oppression of some cultures by others.

The Mitlider method allows you to plan narrow beds on any soil. A peculiarity of gardening on erosive soils is that the top layer is blown away by the winds. On acidic soils It is necessary to add calcium in the form of dolomite flour or chalk. In alkaline soils it is added in the form of gypsum. The beds should not be placed in shaded areas, lowlands or slopes.

The technology for growing vegetables provides for good drainage of water at the site of the planned beds. In the lowlands, raise the entire area for the garden by 20 cm, use soil and pour it in sufficient quantity. An underground flooring under the ground is provided. The top layer of soil is removed, a layer of wood waste 20-30 cm thick is laid.

Growing vegetables is impossible without a source of water for irrigation. The area for the beds must be horizontal. This is one of the main conditions when planning it for growing vegetables.

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Adding nutrient mixtures to the soil using the Mittleider method

Growing vegetables provides them with nutrition that contains all the necessary microelements. In narrow beds, vegetables are provided with all the necessary nutrition and contain the entire complex of vitamins, and the level of nitrates is minimized due to the refusal to use pesticides. There are also few toxic substances in the root system.

Vegetables in narrow beds are able to carry out a self-cleaning process, removing toxic substances from the roots due to the activation of the process of photosynthesis. When growing plants, the processing of nitrates occurs in the best conditions, due to sufficient watering, proper nutrition. Vegetables grown in narrow beds contain an acceptable amount of nitrates and are superior in organoleptic properties to those grown in open ground.

The beds are made 45 cm wide. The aisles between the beds range from 90 to 105 cm. After harvesting, vegetable waste is placed in the aisles. The technology of vegetable growing in narrow beds requires their strict horizontal arrangement; the beds can be arranged parallel to each other.

The length of the narrow ridges does not matter. Vegetable growing can be done on 9-meter beds, and larger beds can be used for large farms of 10-20 acres. It is appropriate to create a set of beds different lengths from 2 to 10 meters. Most often, the entire plot is divided into 4.5-meter beds.

The ridges are marked after clearing the area, using a set of pegs and a metal strip. Work must be carried out in autumn time: if you mark out the beds in advance, then in the spring the vegetables will be planted much faster.

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How to apply fertilizers before planting according to Mitlider

On the day of sowing, fertilizers are applied, which include: lime fertilizer with boron (mixture 1) and a mixture containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (mixture 2).

Having created a ridge using a cord and pegs, add 100 to 200 g of lime mixture per linear meter; A slightly smaller amount of the mixture with nitrogen, phosphate and potassium (50 g per 1 m of bed) is added before sowing. It is poured evenly over the entire surface, and topped with a mixture of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. All soil is dug up and carefully leveled. The bed is formed with a rake, sides are created; they can be increased to a height of 8-10 cm using soil from the passages. In autumn, fertilizers are not applied to the soil; it is only dug up, the clods are not broken.

Vegetable growing in narrow beds allows you to grow early vegetables: seedling bushes are prepared in advance. Beet seedlings produce very early production: the seeds germinate on the 5th day, and a month later they are planted in the ground. All seed beds are used very rationally. Some vegetables are best grown from seeds.

On narrow beds, seeds are sown in two rows and along the sides. You cannot sow in the middle of the bed. Prepare a mixture of small seeds and filler in advance (add a liter jar of sand per 10 g of seeds). Large seeds are placed in the bed separately, one from the other at a distance of 3-5 cm. The seeds are planted using the rule: the planting depth is 2.5 times the thickness of the seed.

In narrow beds, seeds are planted to a shallower depth: from 1 to 6 cm, depending on the type of plant. Small seeds are checked for germination before sowing. Seedlings are planted in rows along the sides.

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Three cabbage harvests per season

When planting cabbage, it is not necessary to add additional fertilizers to the holes.

During the season, in a narrow bed, the following are grown: early cabbage 2 - 3 varieties, middle cabbage - 2 varieties, late cabbage - 4 varieties. Cabbage seedlings are prepared in advance. Seeds are sown in pots, the ground is fertilized with “Tseolorg” or other fertilizer. You can fertilize with ash and lime - fluff. 2 days before sowing the seeds, the soil is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. The seedlings are watered with humate once: after a month, the seedlings are planted in a narrow bed, in two rows, along the sides. It is possible to plant seedlings in a checkerboard pattern. U Chinese cabbage in good lighting, the distance between plants in a row is 10 cm, in insufficient light - 30 cm; at early cabbage- from 30 to 35 cm. Compliance with these intervals is necessary when meeting other requirements for the Mitlider method. When planting cabbage seedlings, it is not necessary to add additional fertilizers to the holes. The roots should not come into contact with wet soil, otherwise they will be injured and die.

After 2 weeks, do the first feeding (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of green slurry, 1 tablespoon of urea). The technology for growing early cabbage recommends a second feeding after 14 days (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of slurry, 1 tbsp. ash). The third feeding is when the heads are tied (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of green slurry, 2 tbsp. ash).

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Cabbage watering technology. Pest Control

To prevent cabbage flea beetles, plants should be sprayed with a vinegar solution (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water). Solutions of horseradish and burdock are used against aphids. When the heads are tied, the cabbage is treated with a solution of boric acid (1 spoon per bucket of water). Kohlrabi is planted shallowly, up to the root collar. As cabbage grows, the leaves close together in the garden bed; they cannot be removed, otherwise a head of cabbage will not form.

Cabbage is watered daily at the rate of 5-10 liters of water per 1 linear meter. m. It is necessary to water the plants according to the leaves. Since July, watering is not carried out in the evening: powdery mildew may appear. Watered cold water, do not pour water on the paths. Watering should be abundant and timely. Cabbage evaporates quickly and needs a lot of water.

Celery seedlings are planted between white cabbage seedlings; these plants successfully complement each other. Cabbage grown using this technology will give high yields.

One of the main problems worrying a summer resident or owner of his own personal plot is the quantity and quality of the harvest. In order to get a lot of tasty and healthy vegetables, you have to put in a lot of effort, but this does not always give the desired result. Therefore, over time, many gardeners decide to move away from growing “somehow and at random” and do everything “according to science.” There are many different methods of maintaining a summer cottage and cultivating vegetables, but the most popular and effective is considered to be the Mittleider vegetable garden.

Many of the summer residents have probably heard talk that the vegetables grown now have become “not the same” - yes, they are large and beautiful to look at, but their taste has deteriorated, and useful substances there is less in them. Dr. Jacob Mittleider also faced a similar problem - having taken up farming, like his parents, he noticed that the cost of fertilizers grew from year to year, and the result only got worse. And it wasn’t even a matter of yield, but the taste and quality of the resulting vegetables. Therefore, Mittleider set himself the goal of finding a solution to this problem and began to study botany and biology. He applied the acquired knowledge in practice. The result was a new method of growing vegetables, named after him, which has successfully proven itself in more than 30 countries around the world, in a wide variety of climates and on all soils.

The idea of ​​a vegetable garden according to Mittleider is balanced diet crops and providing them with the best conditions for growth and maturation at minimal cost. Plants are planted on perfectly flat narrow beds, placed with wide paths between each other. As a result, agricultural crops do not shade each other and receive sufficient sunlight. Narrow beds are watered regularly, every 24-48 hours. Due to their ideal evenness, they evenly absorb moisture along their entire length - a situation where plants are overdried in one place and rot in another is unacceptable. In addition, the narrow bed is abundantly supplied with fertilizers, and according to a strictly verified recipe. Plants receive all the substances they need, without deficiency or, conversely, excess. The result is high-quality, tasty, healthy vegetables with a low nitrate content.

Advantages of Mitlider beds

Let's go through the advantages of setting up a vegetable garden according to Mitlider - every gardener should know about the advantages of this method.

1. Increased yield– at first glance it may seem that you won’t be able to sow or harvest much in the narrow beds of Mittleider. But this is a misconception - by organizing proper feeding, watering and caring for plants, gardeners receive many times larger yields than in their neighbors’ “classic” gardens.

   

2. Less nitrates– fertilizing according to the Mitlider method includes magnesium and molybdenum, which are often lacking in the soil where crops are grown. These substances help convert nitrates into amino acids, proteins and other compounds necessary for growth and maturation.

   

3. Fewer other harmful substances– in narrow beds of agricultural crops a fairly compact root system, covering small area. As a result, plants are physically unable to absorb large amounts of harmful substances. In addition, the supply of all necessary microelements stimulates the processes of self-purification of crops.
4. Suitable for any climate and soil– as mentioned above, Mitlider’s method of arranging vegetable gardens was successfully applied in many countries around the world, including Asia and Africa. And everywhere he showed excellent results. Through the use of soil mixtures and fertilizing, plants receive everything they need even on fairly poor soils in a less than favorable climate.

   

5. Saving water and fertilizers– due to narrow beds, less will be wasted, and the return will be greater.
6. Excellent taste and quality vegetables grown in Mittleider's narrow beds.
7. Arranging and caring for such a garden it will become somewhat simpler and require less time and effort.

   

Important! The Mittleider method requires a very responsible approach to business and the absence of prejudices about chemistry in agriculture. It is necessary to carefully approach the preparation of fertilizing; the mixtures must be completely identical to those described in the technology. Then you will receive not only an abundant, but also a high-quality, tasty and healthy harvest.

Choosing a place for garden beds

The process of arranging a vegetable garden using the Mitlider method begins with choosing a place for the beds. To get the best results, it must meet certain requirements.

Firstly, Mitlider's narrow beds need large quantities water. Therefore, the presence of a nearby pond, well or water supply line is mandatory. Growing vegetables using this method is not suitable for dachas, where there are constant problems with the water supply that are fundamentally insoluble.

Secondly, it is undesirable to place narrow beds in lowlands and other places where there is a high probability of flooding - the root system of plants is located on the surface, and stagnant water can begin to rot.

Thirdly, according to Mitlider, the bed must be perfectly level - the slightest slope creates uneven hydration of the plants - at the top they will suffer from drought, and at the bottom, on the contrary, from excessive dampness.

Important! If it is not possible to level the site or the beds themselves, then it makes sense to build boxes from boards or slate and place them on the site as a “ladder”. Fill them with fertile soil and have a great Meatlider vegetable garden!

Fourthly, the place for narrow beds should not be shaded from buildings or tall trees– agricultural crops on them require maximum light for growth and ripening of fruits.

The Mitlider greenhouse differs from a regular greenhouse in that the level of the slopes is different - one of them, facing the north side, is higher, and the southern one, on the contrary, is lower. In the middle, at the junction of the slopes, there is a vertical wall with transoms along the entire length of the greenhouse. Read more in .

Construction of a Mittleider bed - step-by-step instructions

Having chosen a place, proceed to the immediate arrangement of narrow beds according to Mitlider. To do this you will need a pitchfork, shovel, rake, pegs, rope, tape measure and building level. A plan with the dimensions of narrow beds and paths between them is shown in the image below. Orient from south to north so that the sun, rising in the east, evenly illuminates all the plants along the length of the garden.

Step 1. Completely clear the area under narrow beds of weeds. Dig up the entire area of ​​the garden, preferably using a pitchfork. Remove the rhizomes of all plants that were there before, annuals and perennials.

Step 2. Use a shovel and rake to level the surface, obtaining a platform with minimal differences in height and slope.

Step 3. Start marking the beds - their width together with the sides is 45 cm, the paths between them are 90-105 cm. To do this, use a tape measure and pegs that are driven into the corners of the future beds.

Important! When arranging a garden using this method, summer residents are tempted to reduce the width of the paths: they believe that 90-105 cm is excessive, because narrower paths are sufficient for walking, tending crops and harvesting crops. Here you should understand that the sizes were chosen for a reason and not according to someone’s whim. The width of the paths was chosen so that one bed with relatively tall plants does not shade another or block the sun.

Step 4. Stretch a rope between the pegs at a height of 10 cm. It will help you control the location and height of the sides.

Step 5. Using the pegs and strings stretched between them as a guide, use a rake to form outside the sides of a narrow bed.

Important! If desired, you can replace the earthen sides with pieces of slate or boards.

Step 5. Using the same principle, form the sides of the bed on the inside.

Step 6. Level the remaining soil between the sides.

Step 7 Check the surface of the narrow Mitlider bed using a building level. Remember that it must be perfectly flat and have no slope both along and across.

Step 8 If everything is in order, start preparing seeds or seedlings for planting. In this case, be guided by the current weather and the most optimal day for such an event. Also, do not forget to prepare mixtures of fertilizers No. 1 and No. 2. One of the following sections of the article is devoted to their composition and application features.

How and with what to fertilize Mitlider's beds

In addition to specially designed beds, one of the foundations of the Mitlider method is proper feeding of plants - with a minimum of fertilizer used, they receive the maximum of nutrients and microelements necessary for normal activity. For such gardens, two mixtures have been developed - No. 1 and No. 2.

The first is applied before digging up the garden and planting seeds or seedlings. The consumption rate is 100 grams per linear meter; it should be poured in the center of the bed. The composition of mixture No. 1 depends on the pH of the soil and differs for different types of soil.

Table. Mixture No. 1 – Composition for alkaline soils.

Table. Mixture No. 1 – Composition for acidic soils.

Important! Sprinkling a narrow bed with mixture No. 1 before planting, also apply the first fertilizing with mixture No. 2.

The main components of the second composition are the following:

• P 2 O 5 – phosphorus oxide (V), 1 part;
• N – nitrogen, 1.8 parts;
• K 2 O – potassium oxide, 1.8 parts;
• MgO – magnesium oxide, from 0.2 to 0.4 parts;
• microelements.

The first four substances can be obtained from most fertilizers offered to gardeners today. When choosing them, carefully study the composition and compare it so that the mixture turns out to be as accurate as possible and with a minimum of foreign impurities. It is not recommended to buy ready-made fertilizers “for tomatoes”, etc., as well as those that do not have the exact composition and ratio of chemical elements and compounds on the packaging.

As an example, we will show ready-made recipe 10 kg of mixture No. 2:

• 1.91 kg of urea;
• 1.14 kg of regular superphosphate;
• 2.27 kg kalimag;
• 4.19 kg of azofoska.

As for microelements, they are added to Mitlider’s feeding from other sources. Basic information on them is given in the table below. In addition to the compositions created by Mittleider, there are calculations by Doctor of Biological Sciences T. Uvarova.

Table. Microelements for 10 kg of mixture No. 2 and their sources.

Microelement	According to Mittleider for vegetables in narrow beds	According to Ugarova, for seedlings	According to Ugarova, for vegetables in narrow beds
Bor, V	56.8 g boric acid	28.2 g boric acid	21.1 g boric acid
Molybdenum, Mo	7.3 g ammonium molybdate	14.1 g ammonium molybdate	21.1 g ammonium molybdate
Copper, Cu	14.6 g copper sulfate	11.3 g copper sulfate	-
Zinc, Zn	116.9 g zinc sulfate	22.6 g zinc sulfate	-
Iron, Fe	197.4 g iron sulfate	338.3 g iron sulfate	-
Manganese, Mn	58.5 manganese sulfate	33.8 g manganese sulfate	-

Apply the fertilizer obtained in this way to the garden bed at a rate of 40-50 g per linear meter every 1-1.5 weeks for all plants in the garden. Backfilling is done in the same way as mixture No. 1 - in the center of the bed. The above composition is given as an example. Keep in mind that when using other fertilizers, the composition of mixture No. 2 in terms of main compounds and microelements may vary. For inexperienced gardeners, it would be advisable to consult with professional agronomists and turn to primary sources - books by Jacob Mittleider and Tatyana Ugarova.

Important! Some experienced gardeners who have set up their garden according to Mitlider note that it is very difficult to get microelements for mixture No. 2 - in ordinary garden stores they are not always found. It is recommended to look for such substances from companies that sell chemical reagents. You can find such a store in every relatively large city, or, as an option, you can order online.

Video - Narrow ridges using the Mitlider method

Mittleider beds in boxes

In some cases, leveling a site for narrow ridges is impractical - it is too difficult and time-consuming. But without this you can’t organize a vegetable garden according to Mittleider. Gardeners found a way out of this predicament very quickly - they knocked together narrow rectangular boxes, which are installed on the ground and leveled using supports. They are then filled with soil, resulting in a bed that fully meets the requirements of the Mittleider method. Let's look at how such boxes are created.

Step 1. Mark the area for the ridges in the same way as described in one of the previous sections of the article. Drive wooden pegs into the corners and long sides, so that the tops are at the same height, regardless of the slope. Stretch a rope between the pegs.

Step 2. Prepare boards for the walls of the boxes of the Mittleider beds, timber for supports and self-tapping screws as fasteners.

Step 3. Put together half the box, prepare support bars.

Step 4. Place half of the box of a narrow bed on the ground, align the support bars with the thread. For control, use a building level - make sure there are no longitudinal and transverse slopes.

Step 5. If everything is in order, use the same principle to assemble and install the second half of the box. Connect them together into several bars, shown by arrows in the image below.

Step 6. Fill the box with soil or soil mixture. A small amount of sawdust can be added on top. Beginner gardeners should avoid using compost or manure - adding them to the soil will require changing the composition of mixture No. 1 and No. 2.

Common mistakes when using Mitlider beds

Organizing a vegetable garden according to Mittleider is, in theory, quite simple. But in practice, gardeners often make various mistakes that can be corrected or, even better, prevented. It should be said that inexperienced owners of dachas and garden plots believe that the main thing in this method is narrow beds with sides, and watering and fertilizing is secondary, which can be changed and done in some other way. But that's not true. Deviations from the original technology for any reason lead to a drop in efficiency, a decrease in yields and, as often happens, unfounded criticism of the Mitlider method.

Let's look at the five main mistakes gardeners make. If you know about them, then most likely you won’t commit them yourself.

Mistake #1 – Neglecting site leveling

Often, summer residents, considering the requirement to level narrow ridges unnecessary, neglect this. As a result, the area allocated for planting has a slope. And when watering, water, obeying gravity, flows to one side, washing away fertilizers with it. As a result, in some places there is not enough moisture and fertilizing, and the plants suffer and become weak because of this, and in other places there is an excess, which is also not useful.

Mistake #2 – Infrequent watering

One of the most common mistakes you can encounter. By making narrow beds and correctly applying both mixtures, the garden owner can forget about the requirement to water crops every day or consider it redundant. And the problem is not due to the fact that the plants do not have enough water, but to the fact that the weekly fertilizer applied remains on the soil, without dissolving and not reaching the root systems in full. Over time, a thin crust of such fertilizers forms on a narrow bed; their concentration grows and reaches values ​​that are no longer simply excessive for vegetable crops, but harmful. Therefore, a garden arranged according to the Mittleider method should be watered every day. If this is difficult for you, create one.

Mistake #3 – Changing the width of the tracks

This problem was already raised at the beginning of the article - often a gardener who knows only superficially about the Mitlider method believes that the space between narrow beds is too large and is used ineffectively. Therefore, he shortens the tracks from 90-100 cm to 60-70. It would seem that savings usable area without any loss or inconvenience. But this is an imaginary benefit, which results in a decrease in productivity - vegetable crops, as they grow, begin to block the sun from each other, shading occurs, the result is obvious - they bear less fruit.

Mistake #4 – Changing the composition of fertilizer mixtures

After insufficient watering, this is probably one of the most common shortcomings. The reason for this lies not only in someone’s laziness, but also in the fact that getting one or another component for feeding, especially for mixture No. 2, can be problematic. Therefore, a person decides to give it up, considering it a small problem - one more microelement, one less. But eventually, over time, plants in a narrow bed experience a deficiency of this substance, which disrupts the absorption and transformation of other compounds. Such a mistake not only reduces yields, but also leads to a serious deterioration in the taste of vegetables.

Mistake #5 – Improper application of fertilizers

Another problem associated with fertilizing is its improper application to the soil. Beginning gardeners often scatter fertilizers unevenly over the garden bed, creating a deficiency of minerals in some areas and an equally harmful excess in others. The solution to the problem is simple - treat the process of applying them responsibly and control the consumption rates per linear meter. This will help you plastic container like an enlarged salt shaker with several holes in the lid.

This article provides general, introductory information on how to make a Mittleider vegetable garden at your dacha or personal plot with your own hands. Details, subtleties of the process and its individual features can be found out by referring to primary sources - the inventor of the method wrote several books devoted to this topic.

Video - Mitlider method for tomatoes

Growing vegetables and getting large yields in any climate and under different conditions is not a summer resident’s dream, but a real-life method developed by Jacob Mittleider, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences from California. This technology has been popular for about 30 years. Its peculiarity lies in its unusually arranged beds. It would not hurt for summer residents to know about the rules for creating such a vegetable garden, the features and possibilities of using the method in our conditions.

The history of Mittleider's beds

Jacob Mittleider - consultant and international expert on agricultural issues, who has studied plant care and plant diseases for more than 50 years. Practiced mineral nutrition vegetable crops. Managed the vegetable growing program at 27 various countries world and was engaged in the industrial production of seedlings in nurseries. Mitlider bred 5 varieties of original carnations and developed a greenhouse of a unique design.

The beds according to the Mitlider method, or, as they also say, the “Mitlider garden”, appeared as a result of many years of observations of plants and take into account all the needs of the green world: light, nutrition, moisture. The author of this technique is sure: by following all the rules, it is easy to achieve excellent results . Positive sides such cultivation:

1. High yields are guaranteed for any type of soil, since the beds are filled with a high-quality soil mixture.
2. There is no need for large areas. The Mitlider method is vegetable growing in small areas and for small summer cottages.
3. To water narrow beds you need 40% less water. It does not spill between the rows.
4. The effectiveness of this method is independent of climate and weather conditions. The vagaries of the weather are not scary. The method works equally well in cold, hot and dry regions.
5. It doesn’t take much time to maintain the beds according to Mittleider. Caring for plants is quite simple, and labor efficiency increases several times.

The essence of the narrow beds method

The beds should be oriented north to south. The width of such a strip is 45 cm, and the distance between them is about 100 cm. Earthen edges with a height of 10 cm or more are formed along the perimeter of the bed. Plants are planted in this space in a checkerboard pattern, in two rows. Large plants are planted in one row. Row spacing is never dug up. Such planning seems pointless only at first glance. Many years of experience in its use indicate the following positive aspects:

• all shoots of each plant are well illuminated and enriched with oxygen;
• photosynthesis takes place more actively in the leaves;
• Wide aisles are convenient for caring for plants.

How to properly prepare a vegetable garden

Mitlider believed that to arrange garden beds you need the simplest tools: shovels, rakes, hoes. It is better to first plan the work, mark the plan on paper. It is important to take into account that in the future the passages will never change places with the ridges. The soil between the rows is well compacted, which makes the fight against weeds successful. Then they begin to lay out on the ground, armed with a tape measure, rope and pegs.

There are two types of ridges according to Mitlider: earthen, with embankments and boxes with sides or shields. Both methods of arrangement are good. For agriculture for large areas it is better to choose the open method, and for small beds in subsidiary farms- method with shields.

Such ridge boxes according to Mittleider can be installed almost anywhere: in greenhouses, on balconies and roofs of high-rise buildings. In both cases, gardening should begin in the fall.

Do-it-yourself site marking

The site is marked into beds and row spacings according to the diagram and given dimensions. Weeds are removed and pre-sowing fertilizer, mixture No. 1, is applied. Mixture No. 2 is sprinkled on it. The soil is dug up well, clods are broken and sides are formed. They need to be formed not only along the beds, but also from the ends. It is important to distribute evenly fertile soil between the rollers, and then immediately begin sowing the seeds.

In this case, long and short boards are prepared. They are treated with an antiseptic and a frame is built. Grooves in the soil are laid according to the diagram and frames are installed. Summer residents often use slate sheets of appropriate sizes for such beds. Polyethylene is laid on the bottom of such a frame and filled with a special mixture. It contains: sawdust, river sand, forest soil, perlite, crushed pumice.

This soil has been used in box beds for many years. It is not replaced, but only added at the beginning of the season, when it sags. Under the influence of soil microorganisms, after a few seasons this layer of soil turns into a loose layer rich in humus. Due to the fact that the soil remains soft and moist, like compost, the root system of vegetable crops develops well.

Soil fertilizers

• Mixture No. 1, pre-sowing. Made from boric acid and borax with the addition of gypsum for arid regions. For damp areas, add lime flour or powdered chalk.
• Mixture No. 2, mineral. It is applied to nourish the soil every week. Consists of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, boron, magnesium, molybdenum. This mixture can be stored for two weeks, and if it gets wet, use it immediately.

Narrow ridges in Russian

In Russia, Doctor of Biological Sciences Tatyana Yurievna Ugarova was seriously involved in vegetable growing according to Mitlaider. She accompanied her American colleague on his trips while living in Russia and became acquainted with his work. Ugarova was interested not only in yield, but also in product quality. She applied Mittleider's technology of narrow beds in Russian: she raised questions about the content of useful substances and nitrates in vegetables.

Chemistry and nature

Most people involved in agriculture know little about the chemistry and biology of plants and do not understand the differences between organic and inorganic compounds. Therefore, in Russia, the Mittleider method is received with hostility by many ignorant people. Scientists are called charlatans. And the very word “chemistry” in growing vegetables scares them.

By thoughtlessly and haphazardly using fertilizers, people have caused great harm to the soil and their health. and rushed to the extreme - they began to use manure and compost for cultivation. But with these additives you can easily get nitrate vegetables.

Research results by T. Ugarova

Ugarova found that vegetables grown on narrow ridges are of high quality - according to chemical analyzes, in appearance and taste. In his publication “Family vegetable growing on narrow beds. Experience of using the Mitlider method in Russia" Tatyana Yuryevna Ugarova claims that with this technology:

• Soils are not poisoned because pesticides are not used;
• plants receive all the necessary nutrients;
• active photosynthesis in plants contributes to maximum self-purification.

In the modern world, it is difficult to find unpolluted lands, clean air and water. The lack of fertilizers in your garden does not mean that the harvest will be “clean”. Only calculation, a scientific approach and strict adherence to the instructions of chemists and vegetable growers will help to obtain not only an abundant, but also a high-quality product from the garden.

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