Ventilated façade and insulation of balconies. Do-it-yourself ways to insulate a balcony from the outside

Small area apartment encourages the owner apartment building increase square meters. This leads to the fact that the owner chooses to expand on a balcony or loggia.

In order for the occupied area to be suitable for comfortable living, it should be insulated.

It is possible to make a balcony a full-fledged part of the apartment, but it is important to avoid serious mistakes that will bring problems and disappointment.

We will consider below what mistakes can be avoided when insulating a loggia with a ventilated facade.

Inattention to detail

Any rash procedure in insulation can lead to a sad result:

• even before installation begins, it is worth thinking about the location of the handles on the window sashes;
• cannot be used for sealing seams during insulation gypsum putty;
• if the installation of the structure includes window sills, the width must be determined immediately;
• if wood elements are used, they must be treated with a protective agent.

Insulation

If the arrangement of the loggia is limited to only glazing, you will end up with a slightly insulated room, with the likelihood of mold and mildew developing.

Competent and consistent installation of thermal insulation materials will help to avoid the problem. The sequence of layers when laying the heat insulator:

• insulation is in progress special material from foil. For each surface, the type of product is selected individually;
• When installing sheathing, it is better to give preference to profiles, since wooden elements are subject to rotting and quickly become unusable;
• do not use a simple film, only a vapor barrier membrane;
• The cladding can be used plain or with a decorative coating applied.

Heating

If the insulation of the loggia does not provide for its integration with the room, then when heating the room, strong condensation will accumulate.

The warm flow from the heating source combined with cold glass will create all the conditions for this. This deficiency can be eliminated using ventilation systems.

The easiest way out of the situation is to install special valves that can be mounted both in the wall and in window frames.

Options for insulating a loggia with a ventilated facade

If a ventilated facade is installed on the balcony, there are at least two ways to insulate the room:

1. 1. All existing walls in the room are covered with plaster, after which foam insulation is installed using special glue. In turn, the insulation is sheathed OSB board followed by finishing.

This creates a warm air space indoors and a blowing wind outside the loggia windows. The advantages of this method include the simplicity of all finishing works. The disadvantages are that there is no complete guarantee that this option will work.

1. The existing walls between the room and the loggia are completely dismantled. The material laid by the developers is replaced with a higher quality product from trusted manufacturers. The process ends, as in the first case, with finishing work.

If you have any doubts about self-insulation loggias, it is better to turn to specialists for help. Which option for insulating a loggia with a ventilated facade would you prefer?

You can increase the living space of the apartment due to the area of ​​the balcony. However, for this it needs to be insulated. Sometimes only insulation saves the apartment from the cold and removes ice from the balcony door.

For a balcony located at a level no higher than the second floor, the best option is considered to be do-it-yourself external insulation. For more high levels It will be necessary to attract specialists with high-altitude equipment.

Let us dwell in more detail on the popular methods of external insulation of balconies.

Pros and cons of external insulation

To exclude education, building codes It is recommended to carry out external insulation.

The advantages of this method of insulation are:

• the wall inside the balcony is in a warm zone;

• does not shrink effective area balcony;

• is improving appearance attached balcony;

• Comfortable living in an apartment increases, as heat loss in cold weather is reduced by up to 30%.

Although external insulation is more effective than internal insulation, it is still has its disadvantages:

• Coordination of work with authorized bodies is required, since the facade of the building is changing;

• when performing high-altitude work, one cannot do without the help of specialists with special equipment;

• more high price insulation and works.

Material selection

Exists big choice materials with high insulating properties. Unfortunately, not all types are suitable for external insulation of balconies. Experts advise choosing the following materials for these purposes.

The use of mineral wool for external insulation of balconies is limited by the ability of the material to change thermal performance when wet. In addition, they refuse to use mineral wool due to inconvenient installation and the mandatory installation of sheathing.

Preparing for insulation

A high level of thermal insulation of a balcony can be achieved if the basic preparatory activities. Such work is considered the most important.

1. Strengthening the parapet.

Fencing balcony slab, which performs the function of ensuring safety and forms the aesthetic appearance of the structure, is called a balcony parapet.

As a rule, insulating a balcony involves glazing it. Modern double-glazed windows are heavy, so you can’t do without them.

The parapet is strengthened with your own hands using various materials. The choice of material depends on the design of the balcony and the preferences of the owner. To strengthen the parapet the following are used:

IMPORTANT!

Brick has a lot of weight. In addition, in wet weather it absorbs moisture, which means additional weight increases. Brickwork not suitable for light balcony bases.

1. Glazing.

The most well-known and proven following glazing options:

• wooden windows. The classic version of cold glazing. Best for installation on our own. Installed design It is inexpensive, but has a short service life. Without constant maintenance, windows quickly lose their performance;

1. Surface preparation.

The quality of insulation largely depends on the condition of the surfaces under the insulation. Any irregularities reduce the effectiveness of the insulation several times. Heat is not retained if the insulation does not fit tightly, there are large gaps in the joints, or an unstable base.

There are rules for preparing surfaces:

• the base for installation is cleaned of dirt, dust, and paint residues;

• metal parapet gratings are sheathed with boards, plastic or moisture-resistant plasterboard. Before installation, the material is treated with an antiseptic. The sheathing should fit very tightly to the gratings, and the seams should be sealed with sealant. All defects on the surfaces are smoothed out with foam, and then the excess is cut off.

Insulation with penoplex and polystyrene foam

Both materials are a type of expanded polystyrene. They differ in manufacturing technology, so penoplex is obtained from polystyrene foam by extrusion (extrusion).

For the right choice the required material it is necessary to become familiar with their differences.

1. The main difference is in the structure of the insulation. Foam boards have voids among the granules. Due to the loose structure, the thermal insulation qualities of the material are reduced.

Thanks to special technology, extruded foam boards have fewer voids.

Thus, the thermal conductivity of materials has different meanings.

1. The strength properties of materials are related to the structure. Penoplex has almost four times the strength In addition, this material is produced in thinner sheets.

1. Due to their improved characteristics, foam sheets are more expensive. One such sheet of thermal conductivity replaces several sheets of foam plastic.

1. Penoplex, unlike foam plastic, practically does not allow water to pass through, which means that dampness and fungus will not appear under the insulation.

External insulation of a balcony with these materials can be done in one of the following ways.

1. Plastering method.

Cheaper and more common method. You can use flammable foam. The main thing is that the work is carried out when there is no precipitation and the air temperature is above zero.

Stand out next steps work on the prepared balcony surface:

1. Dry ventilated method.

Has greater efficiency with large areas for insulation. With this method, together with insulation, it is created curtain façade on a lathing made of wood or galvanized profiles. The work is being carried out in stages.

• insulation is glued between the ribs of the sheathing, and then it is additionally strengthened with dowels;

• On top, the insulation is covered with foil polyethylene, which is attached to the sheathing with slats up to 40 mm thick. It is important to avoid wrinkles and tearing of the film.

IMPORTANT!

The finishing condition of the reinforcing surface depends on the sheathing, which determines the direction in which the panels are laid. It has been established that panels in a horizontal position visually increase the width of the balcony, and when positioned vertically, its height appears greater.

There is a wide variety of colors vinyl panels siding. This material almost does not fade and is resistant to changes in temperature and humidity. A lined balcony does not require special care. A damaged panel can be easily replaced.

Plastic lining is considered a priority option for balconies above the first floor. She's different in a simple way cladding, a large selection of textures, colors and shapes. Many people are attracted by its price.

Modern plastic panels, which do not have seams, are considered a successful, but not cheap option for covering a balcony. Hi-tech production allows us to produce panels to match the texture and color of any material. Their important feature- These are antistatic qualities that repel dust.

So, if you install the insulation correctly with your own hands and perform finishing surface, the balcony will be reliably protected from the influence of weather conditions, and in addition, will acquire a unique appearance.

It may seem that attaching a balcony to a room is not such a difficult matter. However, people often face a situation where, after glazing the parapet and removing the old door block the balcony becomes a source of colossal heat loss. Moreover, glaring mistakes are made not only by home craftsmen who decide to cope on their own, but also by hired professional builders. Let's figure out what misconceptions prevent you from doing everything correctly, what pitfalls exist, and how to get around them.

Myth No. 1: A balcony is practical and convenient

If we consider finished projects country cottages, then almost every one of them has a balcony. As practice shows, in the private sector this element of the building is extremely rarely used, especially when it is located on the front side of the facade. People make it and then throw it away. Until a certain point... until the first troubles begin. The wall near the slab freezes and gets wet, the materials on the street gradually deteriorate (the surface of the site crumbles, the fences rust), wooden door It dries out and begins to seep through it.

Important! Balcony stationary slab is tied with outer wall building, it goes directly into the room at floor level and is a huge bridge of cold. In a private house, it makes sense to build a balcony made of wood; it is advisable to use hinged and attached structures with support columns.

Approximately the same horrors are observed in an apartment in a high-rise building. But if in the private sector the owner can, by a strong-willed decision, completely abandon the construction of a balcony, then in a high-rise building people have nowhere to go, they have to do something. It turns out that the balcony is one of the most problematic places, certainly in an apartment. It turns out that the home owner has additional structures “on his balance sheet,” moreover, external ones, which should be protected from wind, snow, rain, and the scorching rays of the sun. Every season something needs to be tinted, lubricated, adjusted, etc.

So, the designs open balcony They need regular careful maintenance, but some of the problems can be eliminated by glazing and insulation. The implementation of an insulated balcony is akin to a miniature construction site, since you will need to build/assemble walls, create a roof (on the topmost floor), and take care of heating and electricity.

Myth No. 2: Any translucent structure can be used for glazing

In fact, there are two types of glazing: warm and cold. Frameless and most sliding structures are elements of cold glazing - if the balcony remains a space isolated from the rooms. The warm option is used when the area is attached to the room. For such purposes, only the most technologically advanced products are suitable, which are distinguished by the greatest resistance to heat transfer, because windows will be the main enclosing structures, and their area is quite large.

Most aluminum systems here cannot provide normal thermal insulation; it is better to give preference, for example, wooden structures(modern, of course). However best characteristics For energy saving, PVC windows are shown on the balcony. But these should be models with a multi-chamber (5-6 chambers, total frame width from 80 mm) profile, which allow the use of filling with two-chamber bags and corresponding sandwiches (from 32 mm). Obviously, double-glazed windows must be used with maximum thermal insulation capacity - that is, with three glasses in which argon and special spraying are used.

Important! Swing systems with several sealing contours have proven themselves to be the best for insulation. Sliding models (as well as frameless solutions) usually do not provide sufficient thermal insulation and tightness, although there are so-called tilt-slide and tilt-slide systems that have quite a decent level of energy efficiency.

As for the configuration and configuration of the glazing, it is worth mentioning the mandatory use of some standard components, which in all respects correspond to the tasks assigned to the insulation. These include:

• corner connection profiles(has chambers and allows you not to build a supporting frame);
• straight H-shaped connecting profiles (allows you to fill a long opening with several frames, has cameras and elastic seals);
• stand elements (makes it possible to insulate the floor);
• expanders (allows you to insulate the ceiling and blank walls).

To increase the heat transfer resistance, the cavities of these components can be filled mineral wool, or polyurethane foam.

You need to understand that even the highest quality glazing has relatively poor thermal insulation properties. Therefore, it is better to assemble a massive or frame parapet around the perimeter of the slab and insulate it, and install windows from the solid fence to the ceiling. If the PVC balcony structure is still chosen “from floor to ceiling”, then it is not necessary to fill all the frames with double-glazed windows; in some openings it will be more effective to install a warmer sandwich (PVC+EPS+PVC) - for example, on the end walls of the balcony, the lower part ram.

Myth #3: Anyone is enough modern insulation layer of 3-5 centimeters

Insufficient thickness of the thermal insulation layer is the most common mistake. It may seem that since the area of ​​the balcony is relatively small, it would not be logical to “eat up” it with thick enclosing elements. But, if you make simple calculations (see the article on calculating the thickness of thermal insulation), it becomes clear that minimum layer additional insulation will be 100-120 mm, and sometimes even 150-180. It is clear that the polyethylene foam canvases so beloved by domestic craftsmen will not cope with the assigned tasks. Here you definitely need to apply:

• basalt wool;
• Styrofoam;
• or extruded polystyrene foam.

Moreover, of all the options for density/thermal conductivity, it is worth giving preference to the most effective ones (thermal conductivity coefficient from 0.040 W/(m*K) and below), which will allow for high-quality insulation and will still help save usable space.

Myth No. 4: The ceiling and floor need not be insulated

Sometimes you hear that a property owner does not want to spend money on thermal insulation of some elements of a balcony/loggia, since “the neighbors above and below also have glazed balconies.” But we cannot know what level of thermal insulation is implemented there; maybe there is no insulation in the structures at all, and cold glazing was used. Even if it turns out that the neighbors insulated properly, there is no guarantee that over time these or other residents will not change their minds and change something.

Also, do not forget that, as we have already noted, this is a powerful bridge of cold: a concrete balcony slab with its three ends faces the street. Therefore, in winter it freezes easily, and this happens all the more intensely if it is reliably fenced off from neighbors. heating system layer of heat insulator. That is, it does not warm up and cools even faster; this cold from the balcony will definitely go into your apartment.

Important! Due to the freezing of the massive element at the end, the blank walls of the loggias, even those isolated from the side of the adjacent apartment, are also subject to full insulation.

Myth No. 5: First of all, the frames are assembled, and then the insulation is laid

Frame sheathing really is the best option finishing the balcony, which is subject to additional insulation, because wet method Bonded thermal insulation, as on the facade, seems to many to be too impractical indoors - for example, overly susceptible to squeezing. However, when assembling frames, craftsmen make the same mistake - first they install the subsystem close to the load-bearing base, and then attach polystyrene foam or stone wool. As a result, the thermal insulation layer breaks, and cold stripes are obtained, which are clearly visible when examining the frame with a thermal imager. It turns out especially bad if you use metal profiles instead of wooden blocks. Wood is preferable here; such insulation is, of course, better than nothing, but freezing is possible.

Important! The insulation, be it polystyrene foam or cotton wool, must be inserted behind the frame elements and the sheets joined tightly to each other and to the load-bearing elements. If foam plastic and EPS, such as penoplex, are used as an insulator, then it is recommended to foam the joints and gaps. When using direct hangers, they must be drilled in advance and secured to the base through thermal insulating gaskets, and the insulation can only then be placed on them by piercing (most likely, you will need elongated U-shaped brackets).

Myth No. 6: Moisture on the balcony is not particularly scary

Just exactly the opposite. There can be a lot of unpleasant options when water, during the operation of an insulated balcony/loggia, can get where it is not needed. The greatest danger is slanting rain. The glazed balcony is a prefabricated structure with a large number of elements and combinations of various materials. Water can get into the insulating layer through poor-quality connections, which then ceases to perform an insulating function. Most often, leakage is observed in the area where the frames meet the top and bottom slabs, if the ebbs/canopies are not installed correctly.

Important! It is mandatory and in a special way to use metal or plastic visors. The top one should be fixed to the slab, and the bottom one to the frame. Installation gaps must be filled with quality foam. By the way, we must not forget about the area where the frames meet and the outer wall of the house; very often they “forget” to use strips that protect the foam from both water and ultraviolet radiation.

If you need to make a roof, then you can’t do without a corner that will cover the joint roofing material and walls. It is best to use a Z-shaped galvanized profile with polymer coating, which with one shelf crashes into the wall. Also, if the humidity in the rooms sometimes rises too much, then it is recommended to close the insulation from the inside vapor barrier films with gluing the canvases using tape.

Myth No. 7: A radiator from under a window can be moved to the balcony parapet without any problems

For a number of reasons, this is not the most reasonable solution. If, after removing the balcony door block, the part of the wall on which the battery hung is also dismantled, then heating device It is better to install it on the side wall of the balcony. Even if you transfer to the front wall, you will have to install the supply and return lines open method. It is dangerous to lay the pipeline in the floor, as on almost any winter day, the pipes located in the thickness of the insulation can be thawed and damaged by destruction if the heating is stopped for even a day.

Perhaps the most practical and in a safe way The glazed balcony will be heated by electric heated floors. For example, implemented using self-regulating cables, rods or infrared film, which can be placed directly under finishing coat floor.

The problem of shortage square meters very relevant for residents of standard high-rise buildings. One way out of the situation is to insulate the balcony from the inside and turn it into a living room.

Warm balcony opens ample opportunities for a more efficient layout of the interior space of the apartment. However, in order to turn your balcony into a full-fledged room, you should carry out a number of works to insulate it.

This step-by-step instruction Do-it-yourself balcony insulation is designed to answer all the questions that arise in this case, minimize the expenditure of time, effort and financial resources, and warn you against encountering all possible pitfalls.

Possibility of using an insulated loggia

A warm loggia, being part of the interior space of the apartment, can be used in several ways. The possibility of using each of them depends on the features internal layout apartments and the needs of the home owners. Here are some of them:

1. How independent room. Here you can place a study, a relaxation room, a home workshop, etc. In this case, the balcony entrance group is retained, which now acts as a partition between the hall (kitchen) and the new room.
2. Combination with a living room or hall. Makes it possible to significantly increase their size by adding additional areas due to warm loggia. The connection of two rooms occurs due to the dismantling of glazing and doors entrance group. In some cases, the partition located under the windows is also dismantled.
3. Combining with the kitchen or moving this room to the loggia. This allows the former kitchen to function exclusively as a dining area, and place the stove and cooking tables on the loggia. To do this, the balcony entrance group located on the kitchen side is also dismantled.

How to legalize the combination of a loggia with internal premises

Get everything before remodeling necessary permissions

A step-by-step guide on how to insulate a balcony with your own hands is necessary not only for the correct step-by-step work, but also to avoid violations of construction and administrative regulations.

Often, when insulating a balcony room, apartment owners set the goal of combining it with the rest of the rooms by dismantling the entrance group and the balcony partition. It should be taken into account that the rules for the operation of residential premises in apartment buildings It is strictly forbidden to make unauthorized changes to their layout.

Unauthorized demolition of partitions, and especially load-bearing walls (which are external walls facing the balcony) is fraught with a serious conflict with the management organization.

To avoid such problems, before insulating the loggia with your own hands, it is always recommended to begin work by obtaining all the necessary permits. To do this, you should create project plan upcoming work and submit it to the relevant supervisory authorities - the architectural committee and the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

After receiving their approval, you should coordinate the upcoming redevelopment with specialists management company. Only after the “go-ahead” has been received from all organizations, will it be possible to calmly get down to work without fear of any administrative or legal claims.

Stages of insulation work

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a loggia with your own hands, first of all, provide for the entire complex necessary work- only in this case can we talk about effective insulation premises. Neglecting any of the stages of comprehensive insulation can ultimately negate all the work done.

Phased insulation of the loggia involves the following work:

• glazing of the balcony facade;
• sealing construction joints;
• waterproofing device;
• installation of insulation;
• decorative interior decoration.

Glazing of the balcony facade

Balcony glazing is one of the main works, without which it is impossible to create an internal thermal circuit in the room. In this regard, it is necessary to approach glazing with all responsibility. Balcony glazing performs a number of important functions:

• thermal insulation;
• moisture insulation;
• sound insulation;
• providing access to sunlight inside the room.

Modern glazing option - with aluminum or PVC frames

When glazing, loggias can be used as classic version designs with wooden frames, and more modern windows made of aluminum or plastic profile with multi-chamber double-glazed windows.

To create and maintain within comfortable temperature It is recommended to choose window designs with multi-chamber double-glazed windows. Depending on the climatic conditions of the region, the number of cameras can vary from two to six.

Window groups using double-glazed windows can be quite heavy, so you need to make sure that the parapet of the loggia can support their weight.

Strengthen the balcony structure if you are not sure of its strength

If there is the slightest doubt about the ability of the fence to withstand the load, it would be best to play it safe and further strengthen it. For this you can use a design from metal corners or channels.

At the same time, you should not overdo it in the quantity and thickness of the metal - there is no excessive load on the balcony slab at all construction project building.

Trust the glazing to professionals

Give preference when choosing window groups better designs, well established in this market. Window installation should also be left to professionals. The fact is that you are unlikely to be able to install a window group efficiently without experience. Moreover, in case self-installation you may lose warranty service manufacturing company.

To avoid the accumulation of excessive dampness and condensation on the balcony, it is best to install plastic windows with built-in valves for air exchange.

Preliminary cleaning and puttying of surfaces

Level the walls and remove all bubbles, rough edges and peeling paint

Instructions for insulating a balcony Special attention devotes preliminary preparation internal surfaces. If you are going to mount thermal insulation material Using any adhesive or cement (polymer) based composition, all internal surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned of the old finish.

In this case, special attention should be paid to peeling, bubbling or crumbling fragments of whitewash, paint or plaster.

Surfaces painted with glossy paint should also be cleaned with coarse sandpaper or grinder to improve their adhesion (coupling) with the adhesive composition.

All cracks and crevices at the joints balcony structures must be thoroughly puttied. Large gaps, for example, between a wall (parapet, ceiling) and glazing, can be sealed with polyurethane foam.

If you leave even the smallest cracks unfilled, inner space Cold air and dampness will inevitably penetrate through them, which will lead to the formation of condensation and dampness.

Waterproofing

The balcony floor can be covered with roll insulation material

For this you can use any suitable material. On modern market finishing materials there is a large selection of various mastics and sealants based on polymer and bitumen, as well as rolled waterproofing materials.

For maximum efficiency The mastic should be used according to the instructions for use.

All joints of balcony structures should be treated with liquid moisture-repellent compounds. In order to prevent the formation of condensation and dampness, you can cover all internal surfaces of the loggia with mastic.

Roll material (roofing felt, isospan, etc.) covers the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia. Sheets cut to the required size are attached to the surfaces of the loggia using construction adhesive, mastic, or pressed with a slatted frame.

For greater efficiency, the joints of the sheets should overlap and be sealed with sealant or tape.

Choice of insulation

Thermal insulation should reliably protect the balcony from the cold

After the internal surfaces have been puttied and waterproofed, you can proceed directly to insulating the balcony. The choice of material depends on many factors: the location of its installation, minimum winter temperatures in your region, cost, etc.

Thermal insulation must, first of all, efficiently fulfill its main purpose - to protect the internal space from the external cold. To choose the right heat-insulating material, you should carefully familiarize yourself with its operating features, pros and cons.

Penoplex

Penoplex or extruded polystyrene foam is a modern heat-insulating material. Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony with penoplex has a number of advantages. It has excellent performance characteristics - it retains heat well, is not afraid of dampness, is light in weight, but at the same time quite dense.

Penoplex is easily cut into sheets required sizes with an ordinary knife and can be used to insulate any surface.

Insulating the loggia floor with penoplex does not require installation additional frame. Thanks to its high density, it can support a lot of weight without deforming or breaking.

Styrofoam

Foam insulation has the same advantages as the previous option - it is lightweight and has good heat-insulating properties. But unlike penoplex, it is less dense.

Therefore, it can only be used to insulate loggia floors as a frame filler. It is not recommended to cover floors with it directly under the finishing coating: under the weight of people and furniture, it can quickly crumble and become unusable. To learn how to quickly glue polystyrene foam, watch this video:

Mineral wool

This insulation is made from various mineral substances (glass, stone, slag) by melting and foaming them. compressed air in a centrifuge. The result is fibers from which insulation is pressed. It has a low density and is available in the form of rolls or tiles.

Minvata has good thermal insulation properties, is economical, but it also has a number of serious disadvantages.

When working with it, particles of stone or glass dust rise into the air and settle in the respiratory tract, on the skin, mucous membranes, causing itching and irritation. Another disadvantage of the material is hydrophobicity. It is afraid of dampness and, when wet, loses its thermal insulation properties. To learn how to insulate a balcony, watch this video:

When working with mineral wool, you should strictly wear protective suits, gloves and goggles.

Foil materials

Relatively recently, a new generation of insulation materials, the surface of which is covered with thin metallized foil, has appeared on our market. The most common among them is penofol - a foamed polymer covered with foil on one or both sides.

Its main feature is its excellent thermal insulation qualities. With a thickness of only 3 - 5 mm, it is equivalent in this indicator to mineral plate 100 mm thick. This is achieved thanks to the special structure of foamed polyethylene, consisting of large quantity closed pores with air bubbles.

The surface covered with foil has the property of reflecting back up to 95% of thermal radiation. This makes penofol and other foil materials unusually effective. To learn how to insulate a balcony with penofol, watch this video:

When installing, penofol should be laid with the foil side facing the inside of the room. Also, you should not compress the material, because this will significantly deteriorate its thermal insulation properties.

Installation of insulation

Before you begin insulating the balcony from the inside with your own hands, you should mount a frame on the walls, ceiling and floor. It can be made from wooden blocks or metal profiles.

We will need it for attaching decorative finishes - plasterboard, PVC or laminated chipboard panels, etc. After installing the frame, we begin filling its cells with insulation.

Insulation boards can be fixed with special glue

The specifics of the insulation installation work directly depend on the type of material you choose. You can use either special adhesive compositions, or fasteners.

Adhesive compounds are used to attach fairly dense materials, for example, penoplex or polystyrene foam. Using fastening devices, less dense insulation materials are used - mini-plya, penofol. But with the help of dowels, foam plastic with penoplex can also be attached.

It is best to use plastic mushroom dowels with wide caps with a diameter of 50 mm for installation. To install using this method, we cut out sheets of insulation of the required size and insert them into the cells of the frame. In several places, using a hammer drill, we drill holes through the insulation in concrete slab or a wall into which we insert “fungi” and fix them by hammering plastic nails into them (included in the kit). About the qualities of ecowool insulation, see this video:

Subsequent finishing

Lining is one of the most environmentally friendly finishing materials

After installing all the insulation sheets (plates) into the frame cells, all gaps between them and the frame profile are carefully sealed with sealant, putty or polyurethane foam.

After this, you can begin covering the frame with finishing finishing materials– gypsum board sheets, laminated chipboard, MDF, PVC panels, floor covering etc. On the floors, on top of dense insulation such as penoplex, you can make cement-sand screed or poured floors, on top of which lay tiles.

As you can see, using the instructions for insulating a balcony, doing all the work yourself will not be difficult. To do this, it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations of the material manufacturer and comply with the requirements of building regulations when carrying out work.

Using a balcony (loggia) as an additional room with functions that are not typical for it - as a greenhouse, kitchen, recreation area or study in last years has become almost universal. With the advent of PVC structures, which make it possible to quickly and efficiently perform glazing with 2-3-layer double-glazed windows, which perfectly retains heat, insulating a balcony from the outside or inside with your own hands can quite successfully solve these problems.

But a balcony (loggia) is a small room. Therefore, high-quality insulation, especially in the northern regions, leads to a critical reduction in its area due to the thickness of the insulation and finishing materials.

There is a need for external insulation, which allows not only to save space but also to solve a number of technical problems associated with moving the “dew point” beyond the perimeter of the balcony area.
In this article we will tell you how to insulate a balcony from the outside.

External insulation: pros and cons

When talking about insulating a balcony with your own hands from the outside, with the exception of balconies located on the very upper floors, it is impossible to insulate the entire balcony (loggia) from the outside. In the vast majority of cases, we are talking about external insulation of the balcony parapet and (in very rare cases), external insulation of the balcony slab, which serves as a “roof” for the balconies of the upper floors.

Among the advantages of external insulation, two main ones can be distinguished:

• Saving balcony space.
• Assignment of the “dew point” to outer surface parapet fencing, one hundred helps to avoid condensation and mold formation on the balcony.

The disadvantages of external insulation are:

• The need to coordinate work on external insulation and changes in the design and appearance of the building facade with architectural, construction and housing and communal services authorities.
• Obtaining permission to carry out work.
• The need to attract specialists - industrial climbers or special equipment - aerial platforms.

• Limitation on the choice of materials for insulation.
• Significant increase in the cost of insulation work.

Preparatory stage of work

Before starting work on insulating the parapet of a balcony (loggia) from the outside with your own hands, it is necessary to assess the volume of work to be done, the condition of the material from which the parapet is made, and calculate the cost of the work, taking into account the involvement of industrial climbers or the rental of special equipment. If the calculations received do not scare you and we are not talking about the price or the time spent on obtaining permission from regulatory authorities to make changes to the design and appearance of the building’s façade – then let’s get to work!

We have already written in an article dedicated to the difficulties associated with making changes to the external building envelope small balcony and the facade of the building. In addition to the lack of Russian legislation regulatory documents that would provide for such a possibility and make such insulation legal, it will still be necessary to coordinate the work with the owners of the apartment building, since the external walls and structures are the joint property of all owners of the apartment building.

Unauthorized changes entail not only dissatisfaction with neighbors, but the obligation to restore the façade structures to their previous form at your own expense.
If you managed to obtain the necessary permits, then you can begin to carry out work.

Strengthening the parapet structure

The balcony parapet can be:

• Metal - from corrugated sheets, rods, metal strips, pipes - in old houses.
• From reinforced concrete slabs of “light” concrete - in panel houses starting from episode 121.
• Made of brick - in most modern brick or monolithic-frame residential buildings.

The material from which the parapet is made plays a significant role in the choice of not only the insulation material, but also its thickness and installation methods.

If the balcony parapet is made of corrugated sheeting or metal welded structures, preliminary cladding of this metal structure from the side of the balcony (loggia) will be required - otherwise the metal “ribs” of the corrugated board will spoil the entire appearance of the insulated balcony and will serve as “bridges” of cold that will negate all your efforts.

In addition to installing an internal screen that will hide metal structures (made of chipboard, plasterboard, PVC siding, plywood), it will be necessary to create a layer of insulation that would completely hide the elements of metal structures, otherwise winter period they will freeze and the cost of heating the balcony (loggia) will be excessive.

If the parapet is made of reinforced concrete slabs or bricks, everything is much simpler - no additional work will be required to change the design of the parapet.

Material selection

Considering that the balcony structure is remote in 90% of cases, that is, it protrudes beyond the facade of the building (with the exception of recessed loggias), it experiences increased wind loads and the effects of precipitation.

Therefore, as insulation it is necessary to choose a material that is resistant to street moisture.

The best in this regard are penoplex, polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam. It is not advisable to use mineral wool as insulation.

It is hygroscopic - it absorbs and retains moisture well, it is heavy, inconvenient to work with and requires obligatory lathing. Therefore, it is better to abandon the idea of ​​insulating the balcony from the outside with mineral wool.

A material quite rarely used in do-it-yourself insulation of balconies and loggias, polyurethane foam, is an ideal insulation material for balcony parapets made of welded metal structures or corrugated sheets. Due to the “flow around” foamed polyurethane, everything metal constructions(corrugated sheet ribs) are immersed in the insulation and do not form “cold bridges”.

In addition, applying such insulation to corrugated sheets does not require the installation of any retaining structures. The only “disadvantage” is the high price. Both the insulation itself and the cost of applying it. It is unlikely that you will be able to perform such insulation with your own hands.

But, but if you decide to rent special vehicles or a team of industrial climbers in order to insulate your balcony from the outside, then the costs of applying PPU compared to specified works will be insignificant.

Insulation with foam plastic or penotex

Insulation of the outer wall of the parapet of a balcony or loggia does not require additional waterproofing, since moisture condensation does not occur on external wall, foam plastic or penotex slabs can be glued to the outer surface of the parapet using any moisture-resistant adhesive construction mastic applied to the surface of the insulation slab with a comb spatula. The glued slabs are additionally fixed with dowels-“fungi” with a wide head.

Considering that the thickness of a foam or penotex slab rarely exceeds 50 mm. You don’t have to install a sheathing to fasten the sheathing - the outer decorative screen, which will cover the insulation from the outside (unless it is PVC siding, which needs guides into which individual elements siding).
Sheathing – (corrugated sheeting, waterproof plasterboard, sheet metal siding, cellular polycarbonate or other waterproof sheet materials), with which you decide to decorate the facade of your balcony from the outside, can be mounted on anchors 100-150 mm long, holes for which are drilled through the insulation and the outer fencing of the parapet.

The length of the anchor should not exceed the total thickness of the parapet fence and insulation, so as not to protrude inside the balcony.

Let's sum it up

Despite some savings in balcony space when insulating a balcony (loggia) externally, it is quite problematic to do the entire amount of work with your own hands. This is due to the need to use special equipment (aerial platform) or safety equipment (climbing equipment). All this leads to an unreasonable increase in the cost of insulating a balcony (loggia). Before you start performing such work, think more than once whether the saved 0.5 sq. m. is worth it. m of balcony area, the investment of such significant funds and headaches with collecting the necessary bureaucratic permits?

Return