Types and descriptions of building materials for house walls. Walls in the house: types, characteristics, pros and cons of materials Good old wood - comfortable, but troublesome

Anyone who wants to build a house is concerned about the question of what material to choose for building walls. After all, the strength, durability and comfort of the home depend on it.

The choice of wall material directly affects the cost of building a house.

To choose a wall material that you can handle, let’s turn to FORUMHOUSE specialists for clarification.

Where does the choice of wall material begin?

Aerated concrete or warm ceramics, timber, wood concrete or frame technology... Any novice developer, when choosing a material for building a house for permanent residence, is faced with an abundance of conflicting information. There seem to be so many materials that choosing the right one seems like an impossible task. We have to narrow the scope of our search and select exactly what is needed!

According to a forum user with the nickname Abysmo, It is enough to understand just ten things to decide whether to build a house. Namely:

1. What kind of housing do you plan to build - for permanent residence or for short-term visits;
2. What requirements do you place on the strength and environmental safety of the wall material?
3. How quickly do you want to check in?
4. What fuel is planned for heating;
5. How much will it cost to operate?
6. How much money are you willing to spend on construction?
7. What building materials are available in your area;
8. Is it possible to carry out independent work, or will workers be involved?
9. What construction technologies and mechanization tools are available in your region of residence;
10. Are you considering the possibility of selling the building on the secondary market?

There are no universal wall materials suitable for every project. A large or small plot, the characteristics of the region of residence, climate, personal preferences require the use of their own materials.

Construction consultant's opinion Romana Nikonova:

– When choosing wall materials, it is necessary to take into account a number of technological features and protective properties of the material: fire resistance, durability, thermal conductivity. In addition, you should be guided by your feelings - whether you like the material or not.

In the conditions of central Russia, walls must provide good thermal protection. They must also be strong enough to withstand the weight of floors, roofing, snow and wind loads.

Snow in the conditions surrounding Moscow can give a load of up to 180 kg per 1 sq.m. roof surfaces. Don’t forget about the fire resistance of structures.

The point of view of an expert from our forum Alexey Melnikov(nickname on the forum Lyokhin ):

– If building codes and technologies are violated, even modern and expensive wall material can be damaged.

And vice versa - a competent approach and careful planning make it possible, with a very limited budget, to build a reliable, practical and not so small comfortable house for permanent residence.

For your information: the cost of constructing a box (relative to the total construction budget) usually does not exceed 20-30%.

The following example is indicative:

If the house is planned to be used as a “dacha”, then erecting stone walls is not profitable for the following reasons:

1. Economic component. If the stone housing has cooled down, then upon arrival it needs a long heating. It is not profitable to do this for the sake of one or two trips per week.
2. Operational component. Irregular heating of a stone structure in winter negatively affects its durability.

What kind of house to build? ABOUT features of wall materials

Among the most well-known materials used in the construction of walls are the following:

• brick and warm ceramics;
• foam concrete and aerated concrete;
• tree;
• frame technologies;
• wood concrete

Let's consider their main features.

1. Brick and warm ceramics

Advantages of this material:

1. Strength – denoted by the letter “M”. The number after the letter indicates how much load the brick can withstand. This value is expressed in kg per 1 sq. cm.

2. Durability. Brick buildings are among the most durable.

3. Environmental friendliness. Brick is based on clay, sand and water. Due to its structure, brick allows air to pass through well. Therefore, a favorable microclimate is established in the room, and excess moisture is removed outside. In addition, the walls accumulate heat well and then release it into the room.

4. High frost resistance. The higher the frost resistance, the more durable the building. Frost resistance is the ability of a building material to withstand freezing and thawing in a water-saturated state. The frost resistance of the material is indicated by the letter F. The numbers after the letter indicate the number of freezing and thawing cycles that the material can withstand without losing its qualities.

5. Aesthetics. A cottage built of brick can be made in any architectural style, and the masonry technology itself has been developed for decades.

6. High degree of sound insulation. Brick walls dampen both street and interior noise well.

Despite a number of undoubted advantages, simple brick also has significant disadvantages.

Alexey Melnikov:

– Traditional ceramic bricks measuring 250x120x65 mm do not comply with modern thermal engineering standards.

Calculations show that the required thickness of homogeneous brick walls(even for the southern latitudes of our country) is at least 1 meter.

It is possible to build a house for permanent residence with such thick walls, but it is not economically feasible. Therefore, brick received its further development - in the form of such a modern solution as warm ceramics.

Roman Nikonov:

– Ceramic block, or porous ceramics, is a high-tech clay-based material.

Thanks to the smallest pores filled with air, ceramic stone is very warm and has high mechanical strength. The dimensions of a block of warm ceramics exceed the dimensions of a standard brick several times, which increases the speed of masonry. But warm ceramics are a rather fragile material. Therefore, to fasten any structures in a wall made of a ceramic block, you have to use special anchors.

Alexander Toporov(nickname on the forum 44alex) :

– Warm ceramics have a thin-walled structure, so it is not easy to attach any heavy objects to it, and cutting it requires an expensive special tool. After laying warm ceramics, it should either be plastered on the outside or additionally filled with vertical joints. Before the purchase ceramic stone I recommend paying attention to the geometry of the blocks and making sure there are no cracks.

When scoring and drilling walls made of warm ceramics, you need to be very careful, otherwise you can split the block.

The main disadvantages of brick:

• 1. High construction costs. Brick is an expensive building material, which leads to an increase in construction costs;
• 2. The large mass of a building built of brick requires the laying of a carefully calculated, powerful and expensive foundation;
• 3. Seasonality of construction work.

Wet processes (cooking building mixtures and water-based solutions) impose restrictions or make it impossible to lay bricks in winter.

2. Foam and aerated concrete

Today, gas and foam concrete blocks are the most common materials for wall construction. This is due to a good balance in the price-quality ratio.

Alexey Melnikov:

– The advantages of such blocks are their relatively low thermal conductivity (as a consequence of high thermal resistance), high fire and biological resistance, ease of processing with hand and portable power tools, as well as their lightness.

It was these qualities that allowed the user of our forum with the nickname Dimastik25 independently, in one hand from aerated concrete.

– I chose aerated concrete because it makes it possible to carry out the masonry independently, without using auxiliary force.

The size of the block allows it to be laid by one person, but due to the large format of the block, the work is done quite simply, quickly and without unnecessary labor costs.

Even an untrained person can lay blocks on their own. There is no need to mix a large amount of cement-sand mortar; the masonry is carried out fairly thin layer glue. Another significant advantage is the uniformity of the wall, big choice blocks and their good geometry.

Alexander Toporov:

– Gas silicate is easy to process, it is easy to saw. It is also easy to organize various armored belts, lintels, arches, etc.

One of the main advantages of aerated and foam concrete as wall materials is their good heat and sound insulation, which leads to reduced costs for heating and insulating materials.

Aerated concrete blocks are produced by large enterprises. Therefore, the quality of such materials corresponds to the declared characteristics, and geometric deviations are minimal.

But this material is not without its drawbacks.

Alexey Melnikov:

– Gas and foam concrete blocks are a very fragile material. Low bending strength requires the use of a relatively expensive and powerful foundation (usually a monolithic reinforced concrete slab), as well as additional reinforcement elements - armored belts.

Foam concrete, although cheaper than aerated concrete, can be produced using so-called “garage” methods. Therefore, when purchasing it, you need to carefully consider the issue of choosing a supplier and not chase the lowest price.

You can familiarize yourself with all and.

3. Wooden houses

Wood is a classic building material, but despite its widespread use, it also has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Roman Nikonov:

– Wooden house breathes, beautiful. It is very flexible, "homey", universal material, easy to transport and install. But it is less durable than stone.

Because When constructing a log house there are no wet processes, then such a house can be erected at any time of the year.

When starting a construction project, we think about which log is best to build a house for permanent residence from. Experts believe that it is better not to build a wooden house from logs!

Alexey Melnikov:

– Timber is more practical in terms of cost-energy efficiency ratio, but for connoisseurs of log facades, the aesthetics of a log house usually come first.

Rounded logs and profiled timber (including kiln drying) are all modern types of logs aimed at improving aesthetic properties and simplifying the construction of a house.

High-quality wooden houses can last 200-300 years.

Among the disadvantages wooden houses can be distinguished:

1. The installation of “wet” rooms in a wooden one is associated with certain difficulties.

2. Based on standard sizes logs (6 m), covering rooms over 5 meters wide is difficult to implement. Interfloor ceilings in wooden houses are usually wooden beams. This reduces the degree of sound insulation in the house (wood conducts sound well) under shock loads.

3. Wood is susceptible to shrinkage and cracking.

4. A wooden house must be caulked and painted regularly. Thermal protection sufficient for comfortable life in the house, provides a wall made of wood with a thickness of 200 mm.

5. Wood can rot and requires treatment with antiseptic agents to protect against mold and wood-boring beetles.

That's why next step development of wooden house-building was the development of laminated veneer lumber - a wall material devoid of the disadvantages of conventional timber.

Let's name the advantages of laminated veneer lumber:

• The material is durable and, thanks to its special profile (the toothed connection protects the wall from blowing), better retains heat in the house;
• Glued laminated timber has a clear geometry, which facilitates and speeds up the process of building a house;
• The material practically does not shrink, which allows you to immediately begin laying communications and interior decoration premises;
• Thanks to factory fire-bioprotection, laminated veneer lumber is highly resistant to fire, mold and fungi;
• The walls of a house built from laminated veneer lumber do not require interior or exterior decoration.

The main disadvantage of this material is its high price, as well as the need to attract highly qualified specialists to build a house.

4. Frame technology

Frame houses are considered one of the most rapidly erected and warmest houses. Therefore, if you need housing urgently, and you are wondering what temporary resources and what material to build a house from, feel free to choose this option. The main advantages of frame housing construction are cost-effectiveness and high – in a matter of months – construction speed.

Because frame house Because it is lightweight, there is no need to build a powerful foundation under it, which also greatly reduces construction costs. The absence of wet processes allows a frame house to be built all year round.

Denis Reznichenko(nickname on the forum silent):

– If you are going to permanently live in a frame house, keep in mind that heating costs will be noticeably lower compared to wooden or stone houses, because The ability to retain heat in modern insulation materials is higher than that of traditional materials.

Advantages frame houses:

• high speed of construction;
• frame technology does not require the use of heavy construction equipment;
• the construction of such a house can be carried out independently;
• due to the lack of shrinkage, internal and exterior finishing a frame house can be built immediately after construction is completed;
• the thickness of the walls in frame houses usually does not exceed 30 cm, which increases the usable area of ​​the house;
• during the cold season, frame houses quickly warm up to a comfortable temperature.

The disadvantages of frame houses include:

• High demands on the quality of materials used. To build a frame house, first of all, you need well-dried and planed wood, treated with fire and bioprotective compounds that protect it from damage and rotting. When constructing a frame, it is unacceptable to use raw wood, because It warps as it dries. This leads to a change in the geometry of wooden structures;
• Construction carried out by low-skilled workers with deviations from technology entails a significant reduction in the operational characteristics of the house;
• Compared to stone houses, frame houses lower degree of sound insulation.

Alexey Melnikov:

– Also among the disadvantages is low heat capacity (heat storage capacity) frame walls.

A frame house with the heating turned off quickly cools down. However, there is a way out - you can use an insulated Swedish stove as a foundation.

5. Arbolit

Wood concrete is a material made from cement binder (concrete) and organic fillers obtained from wood processing waste.

Sometimes wood concrete is called wood concrete, because this wall material absorbs the advantages of both concrete and wood.

Arbolite has high thermal insulation properties.

This is an environmentally friendly material that does not require additional insulation. It does not dry out like wood, does not rot and does not burn.

Arbolite walls “breathe” (the vapor permeability of an arbolite wall is more than 35%). This regulates the humidity level in the room. This ensures good air exchange in the room.

Alexey Melnikov:

– Arbolite is an old and, at the same time, undeservedly forgotten material. Attempts to implement it were made back in Soviet times.

However, the segment of individual low-rise housing construction was not developed in those days; mainly panels of high-rise buildings were built, and over time, wood concrete gave way to other wall materials.

However, now wood concrete is experiencing a rebirth.

After all, it is devoid of a number of disadvantages inherent in gas and foam concrete blocks, the material is relatively light, and the construction of a house does not require the construction of a powerful foundation.

Also, wood concrete has high bending strength and will not crack when the foundation moves or settles.

Arbolite, like wood, is easy to saw, drill, arbolite wall Nails are easy to hammer in, and the material itself holds heavy objects well without the use of special fasteners.

Among the disadvantages of wood concrete, two can be identified: its high cost and the insufficient number of house designs developed specifically for these blocks. Therefore, when choosing a wood concrete block (in order to avoid purchasing low-quality material with impaired geometry or strength characteristics), it is necessary to carefully consider the issue of choosing a supplier.

On our portal they will help you find out everything a novice frame builder needs to know, what kind of house, understand what is better,. We will help you choose best material for walls and how to build

Watch a video on building a house from wood concrete blocks. And after reading our next video, you will learn how to build your own in six months

By purpose walls are external and internal, and by load perception - load-bearing and non-load-bearing.

Depending on the materials used share the following types of walls:

wooden from logs, beams, wooden frames;

brick made of solid and hollow clay, ceramic and silicate bricks and blocks;

stone made from cobblestone, limestone, sandstone, shell rock, tuff, etc.;

lightweight concrete made of gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, polystyrene, slag concrete, wood concrete, sawdust concrete;

soil concrete made of adobe, compacted pear.

By constructive decision walls are:

chopped from logs and assembled from wooden beams;

small block made of bricks and small blocks weighing more than 50 kg;

panel or panel made from ready-made wall elements per floor high;

framed from racks and frames covered with sheet or molded materials;

monolithic from concrete and soil;

composite or multilayer using various materials and designs.

Materials for the construction of walls and their constructive solution are chosen taking into account local climatic conditions, economics, the specified strength and durability of the building, internal comfort and architectural expressiveness of the facades.

Natural stones and solid bricks have the greatest strength and durability. At the same time, in terms of their heat-protective qualities, they are significantly inferior to lightweight concrete, efficient brick and wood. Their use in “pure form” without combination with other, less thermally conductive materials is justified only in the southern regions of the country.

When building brick walls, you should strive for lightweight masonry, using efficient bricks and creating voids using warm mortar. Solid brickwork of solid brick walls with a thickness of more than 38 cm is considered impractical.

Reliable in operation and 1.5 - 2 times cheaper than brick, lightweight concrete walls based on slag, expanded clay or sawdust using cement. If you use pre-fabricated lightweight concrete blocks, you can significantly reduce the seasonal construction time.

The traditional material for the walls of low-rise buildings is wood. According to sanitary and hygienic requirements, chopped and cobblestone walls are the most comfortable. Their disadvantages include low fire resistance and sedimentary deformations in the first 1.5 - 2 years.

If lumber and effective insulation are available, frame walls are quite justified. They, like chopped ones, do not require massive foundations, but unlike them they do not have post-construction deformations. When facing frame walls with bricks, their fire resistance and capital strength are significantly increased.

In southern regions with sharp changes in day and night outside air temperatures, walls made of soil concrete (adobe) “behave well”. Due to their great thermal inertia (they heat up and cool down slowly), they create an optimal thermal regime in such a climate.

You watched: Types of walls

According to the perception of loads they are divided into:

• carriers
• non-load-bearing.

Depending on the materials used, walls are conventionally divided into following types:

• wooden from logs, beams, wooden frame
• brick made of solid and hollow clay
• ceramic and silicate bricks and blocks
• stone made of cobblestone, limestone, sandstone, shell rock, tuff, etc.,
• lightweight concrete made of gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, slag concrete, argolite, sawdust concrete
• soil concrete made of adobe, compacted soil.

According to the constructive solution, the walls are:

• chopped from logs and assembled from wooden beams,
• small block made of bricks and small blocks weighing more than 50 kg.,
• panel or panel from ready-made wall elements one floor high,
• framed from racks and frames covered with sheet or molded materials,
• monolithic from concrete and soil,
• composite or multilayer using various materials and designs.

WHAT TO BUILD WALLS FROM?

In the construction of dachas and cottages for walls, they are most often used following materials: brick, lightweight concrete (foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, etc.), wood (timber, logs) and wood with insulation (frame walls). For the construction of frame walls, a relatively new material - cement-bonded particle boards (CSP) - is unfairly rarely used. Let's consider their advantages, disadvantages and construction costs (prices as of April 01, will increase by summer).

When choosing wall material, the following considerations must be taken into account.
1."Rule of homogeneity" - all main walls (external and those internal on which the ceiling rests) must be built from the same material and rest on the same foundation. A combination of brick and lightweight concrete, as well as DSP and wood when cladding frame walls is acceptable.
2.Distances between main walls(supports for wooden beams overlap) should not exceed 4 m. When reinforced concrete floor(for brick walls) this distance can be increased to 7 m.
3. Materials for the construction of walls and their design solutions are selected taking into account local climatic conditions, economics, the specified strength and durability of the building, internal comfort and architectural expressiveness of the facades.

BRICK.
Advantages.
Brick walls are very durable, fire-resistant, not susceptible (unlike wooden ones) to insects - pests and rotting, and therefore durable. They allow you to use reinforced concrete slabs ceilings This is necessary if you want to arrange a living space above the garage or a room very big size. The small size of the bricks allows them to be used to build walls of complex configurations and lay out decorative elements of the facade. Due to the fire resistance of brick, walls made of it can be adjacent to stoves and fireplaces; smoke and ventilation ducts can be laid inside brick walls. Brick walls have a high heat capacity and, therefore, thermal inertia - in summer they are cool in any heat, in winter they are warm for a long time even after the heating is turned off.

Flaws.
Brick walls have high heat capacity and, therefore, thermal inertia, as well as relatively high thermal conductivity. Therefore, if in winter the house has not been heated for at least two weeks, warm it up until comfortable conditions it will take several days. Brick readily absorbs moisture. Because of this, during seasonal use, the first weeks in a brick house are damp. The bricks, which have collected moisture from the atmosphere during the fall, freeze in the winter, this leads (during seasonal use) to rapid destruction - in 25 years the walls will require serious repairs. Brick walls are very heavy and do not tolerate deformation, so they require a strip foundation to the full freezing depth. To ensure proper thermal insulation, brick walls must be very thick (in the Moscow region - 52 cm). In a house with a usable area of ​​50 sq. m they will occupy "17 sq. m - 1/3 of the area; for a house with an area of ​​200 sq. m this ratio will be 1/6. After the completion of the laying of the walls, a year must pass before they can be finished; the walls must "settle" before the start of finishing.

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use brick only in the construction of large cottages (several floors, floor area more than 200 sq. m), intended for year-round use.

Advantages.
The walls are made of lightweight concrete, fireproof, not susceptible (unlike wooden ones) to insects - pests and rotting, and therefore durable. The relatively small size of the blocks and the ease of their processing make it possible to build walls of complex configurations from them. Due to the fire resistance of concrete, walls made of it can be adjacent to stoves, fireplaces and smoke ducts. Concrete walls have a high heat capacity and, therefore, thermal inertia - in summer they are cool in any heat, in winter they are warm for a long time even after the heating is turned off. Foam concrete walls, in comparison with brick walls, have lower heat capacity and, therefore, thermal inertia, as well as relatively low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house is not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions within a day. The thickness of foam concrete walls can be half that of brick walls. Lining the outside of foam concrete walls with decorative bricks does not increase their weight by much, but it strengthens the walls and relieves you of worries about finishing. Laying walls from blocks is much simpler and cheaper than brickwork.

Flaws.
Foam concrete readily absorbs moisture. The blocks that have collected moisture from the atmosphere during the fall freeze in the winter, this leads (during seasonal use) to rapid destruction - after 25 years the walls will require serious repairs (this does not apply to expanded clay concrete, it is hydrophobic). Walls made of lightweight concrete do not tolerate deformation, so they require a strip foundation or a slab foundation. After completing the laying of the walls, a year must pass before finishing them; the walls must “settle” before finishing begins. Cracks may form on walls made of foam concrete during settlement.

Conclusion.
Lightweight concrete occupies an intermediate position between brick and wood, and the higher it is specific gravity, the closer its properties are to those of brick. It is advisable to use it in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and summer cottages intended for year-round use.

SIMPLE BEAM.
Advantages.
Timber walls have low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house is not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a few hours. For timber walls, a thickness of 15 cm is sufficient. Wooden walls create a healthy microclimate in the house; they remove excess moisture from the room. Timber walls are relatively light and resistant to deformation. They can be built on a columnar or floating column foundation. Wooden walls can withstand an unlimited number of freeze-thaw cycles, and therefore their service life can exceed 100 years.

Flaws.
Walls made of wood are highly flammable and susceptible to insect pests and rot, and therefore require special treatment and structural protection from moisture and fire. After finishing the felling wooden walls a year must pass before finishing begins; the walls must “settle” before finishing begins, and the settlement (up to 10%) is significantly greater than that of stone or frame walls (3 - 1%). The timber becomes deformed when drying. Caulking timber walls is a complex and expensive procedure. To minimize the consequences of these troubles (deformation and poor caulking), timber walls, outside and inside, have to be sheathed with clapboard or DSP.

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use wood in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and dachas intended for seasonal or year-round use.

PROFILED BEAM, SIMPLE AND CYLINDED LOG.
Advantages.
The same as for timber walls. Walls made of simple logs are more durable.

Flaws.
The same as for timber walls. In addition, walls made of these materials require careful and beautiful caulking.

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use such wood in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and dachas intended for seasonal or year-round use, when purely aesthetic considerations come first.

Advantages.
Frame walls with “double” thermal insulation made of lightweight materials (foam plastic, mineral wool, etc.) have the lowest thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house is not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a few hours. For frame walls, a thickness of 15 cm is sufficient. Frame walls are the lightest of all those considered and are resistant to deformation. They can be built on a columnar or floating column foundation. Frame walls can withstand an unlimited number of freeze-thaw cycles. DSP cladding provides protection (though not absolute) from fire and moisture. In frame houses, the most free layout of interior spaces is possible. The cost of money, effort and time for the construction of frame walls is minimal. There is no need to wait for precipitation before finishing. With well-organized work, you can move into a frame house a month after the start of construction.

Flaws.
Walls made of wood are highly flammable and susceptible to insect pests and rot, and therefore require special treatment and structural protection from moisture and fire. Lining, the main material for cladding frame walls, dries out quickly (within 1-2 years), cracks appear on the wall (if the work is done correctly, not through). It is believed that the service life of frame houses does not exceed 30 years, but the use of modern materials can significantly increase it. Increasing the size of the house (L walls > 9 m, height - > 2 floors) leads to a significant complication of the frame and a decrease in reliability. The use of siding for cladding is unacceptable, since it “does not breathe” - it does not allow water vapor to pass through.

Conclusion.
It is advisable to use frame walls in the construction of summer cottages intended for seasonal or year-round use.

Logging for log and cobblestone walls, it is advisable to perform it in winter, when the wood is less susceptible to drying out, rotting and warping. For the walls, coniferous trees are cut down that have a straight trunk with a slope of no more than 1 cm per 1 m of length. The diameter of the logs is chosen to be the same as possible with the difference between the upper and lower cuts not exceeding 3 cm. The thickness (diameter) of the logs is determined by the width required by climatic conditions longitudinal groove. At a design temperature of outside air of - 20 0C it should be at least 10 cm, at - 300C - at least 12 cm, at - 400C - about 14-16 cm. The width of the groove is approximately 2/3 of the diameter of the log. The length of the logs is determined in accordance with the dimensions and layout of the house, taking into account the necessary allowance when cutting the log house with the remainder (into the “cup”). When cutting walls, freshly cut logs with an average humidity of 80-90% are used. They are easier to process and less deformed when dried naturally when assembled. When humidity decreases to 15% (operational humidity in the middle zone of the country), the wood dries out and the dimensions of the logs decrease in the longitudinal direction by about 0.1, in the transverse direction - by 3-6%.

Cutting log walls usually performed near the installation site, laying the logs “dry” without tow. After the felling is completed, the walls must “stand” in assembled form (over 6-9 months, the moisture content of the wood decreases by 3-5 times), then the logs are marked, the log house is rolled out and assembled on tow, on previously prepared foundations. During drying and operation, chopped walls shrink significantly, reaching 1:20-1:30 of the original height of the log house, so a gap (depending on the moisture content of the logs) of 6-10 cm is left above the window and door frames. The seams between the logs are caulked 2 times : the first time rough after the construction of the house, the second - after 1-1.5 years - after the final settlement of the walls.

The cutting down of the walls begins from laying the first (flashing) crown of thicker logs, hewn into two edges: one - with bottom side, the second - from the inside. Since the logs in the longitudinal and transverse walls are offset relative to each other by half their height, the first crown on two opposite walls is laid either on support beams or plates, or on an uneven-high plinth. For better organization drain (with a protruding base), antiseptic boards are placed under the first crown along the waterproofing layer, to which galvanized roofing steel is attached. The width of the lower edge of the frame crown is at least 15 cm. Each subsequent crown of the log house is connected to the previous one through a semicircular groove selected from the underside of each log. To give the walls stability, the crowns are connected to each other by vertical insert tenons of a rectangular (6x2 cm) or round (3-4 cm) section with a height of 10-12 cm, placing them in each row in a checkerboard pattern every 1-1.5 m along the length of the log house; in the walls it is necessary to have at least two spikes at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edges. The height of the holes for the spikes should have a reserve for draft, i.e. be 1.5-2 cm greater than the height of the spikes. The logs in the log house are placed alternately with their butts in different directions to maintain the overall horizontalness of the rows. In the corners, logs are connected in two ways: with the remainder (into the “cup”) and without the remainder (into the “paw”). The intersection of external walls with internal walls is also carried out in a “cup” or “paw”. When cutting into a “cup”, due to the corner residues, about 0.5 m is lost on each log. In addition, the protruding ends of the logs interfere with subsequent lining or external cladding walls Paw cutting is more economical, but requires more highly skilled and careful work.

Walls made of beams are erected with less labor, and highly qualified specialists are not required. An individual developer, having ready-made beams, can do this work independently. Unlike log walls, beam walls are assembled immediately on ready-made foundations. If the base of the house is sinking, then the drain is not done and the first crown is laid over a waterproofing layer with an outer overhang above the base of 3-4 cm. The corners of the first crown are connected into half a tree, the rest are either on main tenons or dowels.

Gusset bars"butt-to-end" is fragile and creates vertical cracks that are blown through.
A more technologically advanced connection is made on root tenons: the wood for the tenon and socket is cut across the grain, and the cleaving is done along it. In addition, with this connection, the tenon socket is located further from the edge of the beam. To prevent horizontal shifts, the beams are connected to each other by vertical dowels (dowels) with a diameter of about 30 mm and a height of 20-25 cm. Holes for the dowels are drilled after placing the beam on the tow to a depth equal to approximately one and a half height of the beam, 2-4 cm more, than the length of the dowel.

Cobblestone walls, unlike log walls, have flat horizontal seams and therefore rain moisture penetrates into the room through them. To reduce the water permeability of the seams, each beam has outside a chamfer 20-30 mm wide is removed (shaved) along the upper edge, and the outer seams themselves are carefully caulked and covered with drying oil, oil paint, etc. The most effective protection of paving walls from atmospheric influences is covering them with boards or facing them with bricks. This allows you not only to protect the walls from exposure to external moisture and reduce airflow, but also to make them “warmer”, and with brick cladding, more fire-resistant.

To prevent biological destruction of wood, a ventilation gap 4-6 cm wide is created between the plank sheathing and the wall. If additional insulation of the walls of the house is necessary, this gap is widened and filled with mineral wool. In this case, the insulation should be left open at the top and bottom. It is better to make plank cladding horizontal - this makes it easier to install insulation and creates more favorable conditions for vertical ventilation internal space. The brick cladding is also installed with a gap of 5-7 cm from the wall. To ventilate the internal space (including those filled with insulation), vents are left at the top and bottom of the brick cladding. The brick cladding is laid out either in half a brick or with modular bricks having a thickness of 88 mm, “on edge” and secured to beams or logs with metal clamps placed every 30-40 cm in height and every 1-1.5 m along the front checkerboard walls.

Clamps are a double-bent strip of galvanized roofing steel, 3-5 cm wide and 15-20 cm long. One side of it is attached with a bent end to a beam or log (preferably with a screw), the other is embedded in the brickwork with the end bent 900 along the cladding. Sheathing and cladding of cobblestone and log walls is carried out after they have completely settled, i.e. no earlier than 1-1.5 years after construction.

WOODEN FRAME WALLS
Frame walls are considered the most easy option for the construction of a country house, since at a relatively low cost of wood they can be no less warm and low-sound conductive than felled log walls.

The frame usually consists of a lower and top harness walls, stiffening struts, as well as such auxiliary elements as intermediate posts and crossbars, between which door and window frames are located.

After assembling the frame, it is sheathed on the outside with boards about 20 mm thick. Instead, you can use other durable and weather-resistant materials, such as asbestos-cement boards.

The following method is used to insulate walls. The boards are laid in two layers, leaving space between them, which must be filled either with rolled materials (roofing felt, roofing felt), or with slab or bulk materials. Slab and roll materials are attached to the wall with nails. The resulting seams are covered with gypsum solution or caulked with tow. When laying slabs in two layers, the seams between the slabs of the first layer must be overlapped by the slabs of the second layer.

To prevent moist air from penetrating between the layers of boards, an insulating layer of roofing felt is placed on the inside of the wall under the sheathing, which is mixed with lime before use. It will reliably protect your house from rodents.

In addition to lime, slag, pumice, sawdust, moss, peat, sunflower husks, and straw can be used as backfill. The lighter the material, the lower its thermal conductivity. Before use, it must be thoroughly dried and antiseptic. And only after this treatment, mix, lay in layers and compact.

But despite the fact that dry backfills have a number of advantages (relative cheapness, accessibility, protection from rodents), they are characterized by one drawback, namely, they cause settlement of the house with the subsequent formation of unwanted voids, which cannot be attributed to the advantages. To prevent this, it is necessary to raise the walls 300 mm above the ceiling beams and fill them with backfill; Gradually settling, it will fill the voids. It is better to use slab materials under the windows, and if this is not possible, then we recommend that you install retractable window sills and add backfill through them.

Due to the fact that the backfill for the most part is considered a light and granular material and, as we have already noted, gives sediment, materials are added to it that turn it into solid aggregate. Perhaps one of the most commonly used materials is considered to be lime and gypsum (80% sawdust contains 5% gypsum).

Some builders resort to moistened backfills. When preparing them, you must strictly observe a certain ratio of materials, which are best taken by weight. So, for example, for 1 part of organic filler take 0.5 parts of gypsum and 2 parts of water. It is prepared as follows: layers of organic fillers and a binder are poured onto the striker, mixed thoroughly and moistened with water. All this dries out in 2-3 weeks. Many builders make the mistake of using thermal insulation materials (roof felt, roofing felt) when making moistened backfill. Under no circumstances should this be done, as such materials can subsequently cause fungus that is dangerous to the wood.

The most effective heat-insulating material are slabs made from organic materials, size 50x50, thickness from 5 to 15 cm. To make them, take 4 parts clay dough, 0.3 parts quicklime, 2 parts water. In the absence of lime, you can use cement (0.3 parts to 2 parts water). All components are mixed; If they are dry, they must be moistened with water. Everything is thoroughly mixed again until homogeneous, placed in molds, compacted and dried under a canopy or in indoors. Drying time depends on the binder. If you used gypsum or lime, then the drying time will be limited to two to three weeks, and if you used clay, you will have to wait three to four weeks.

BRICK WALLS.
For masonry walls residential buildings Various types of bricks are used. In order to save materials, it is not recommended to use ordinary solid bricks for continuous masonry. It is better to lay out solid walls from lightweight and hollow brick, using double-row and multi-row dressing systems. When dressing masonry in two rows, the front rows of pokes alternate with rows of spoons and for dressing it is required significant amount halves and three-quarters of bricks. The masonry in a multi-row dressing consists of spoon rows, overlapped every fifth row (in height) by a bonded row. The thickness of horizontal and vertical mortar joints should be no more than 10-12 mm. Examples of masonry walls and their details (corners, pillars, partitions, as well as wall junctions) are shown in the figure.

When laying, the mortar is applied to the wall from a box (with low sides) with a shovel and spread in the form of a convex bed. The brick must first be laid out on the wall for spoon rows in stacks of 2 bricks flat, with the long side along the wall, and for bonded rows with the long side across the wall. The masonry is carried out, observing strict horizontal and vertical rows, ensuring the correctness of the front surfaces of the walls. For better adhesion of the mortar to the brick, especially when laying in hot weather, it is recommended to moisten the brick with water before laying. This recommendation applies to all types of brickwork. If the walls will be plastered in the future, then the masonry should be hollowed out, that is, without filling the seams at the surface of the wall to be plastered with mortar. With this method, the plaster adheres more firmly to the wall surface. For laying massive stone walls, cold mortars are used, and for thin walls, requiring increased thermal qualities - warm plastic solutions. In warm solutions, sand is replaced with ground fuel or blast furnace slag, ash, ground tuff, pumice, etc. If the substitute is well ground, then sand is not added, but if the substitute contains some large impurities, then sand is added without large quantities. At external plaster a wall with such solutions acquires better thermal insulation qualities.

To install door and window frames, openings with cut quarters are left in the masonry. The openings are covered with prefabricated reinforced concrete, ordinary brick or wedge lintels. When installing ordinary lintels at the level of the top of the opening, formwork is installed from boards 40-50 mm thick, on which the mortar is spread in a layer of up to 2 cm and reinforcement is laid (stack steel, round 4-6 mm steel) at the rate of 1 rod per 1/2 brick wall thickness. The ends of the reinforcement should extend 25 cm into the walls. Wedge lintels are also installed on pre-laid formwork, laying bricks on edge from the edges to the middle of the lintel and sloping at the edges to form a spacer (wedge). It is allowed to install lintels made of tarred boards 5-6 cm thick, the ends of which should be buried 15-25 cm into the walls.

PARTITIONS.
Partitions must be soundproof, nailable, durable, and stable. Partitions are installed on the floor structure before flooring is laid. In places where partitions made of combustible materials adjoin stoves and chimneys, brick cuts should be arranged along the entire height so that the distance from the partition to the inner surface of the stove or chimney is at least 40 cm.

FRAME.
The frame of the partitions consists of racks 5-6 cm thick and 9-10 cm wide with spikes at the ends, upper and lower trims of the same section with sockets for the spikes of the racks. The racks are placed at a distance of 0.75-1.2 m from one another, with a spike in the socket of the straps, and fastened with nails. To form a doorway, frame posts are installed with a crossbar (lintel) embedded on top. The door frame is nailed to the framing posts. The frame is sheathed horizontally on both sides with boards 1.9-2.5 cm thick. Boards more than 12 cm wide are split with an ax so that they do not warp when plastered. The voids between the two skins are filled with fine sifted dry slag to increase soundproofing and reduce fire hazard. In some cases, the frame of the interior partition can be covered with fiberboards and plywood sheets without any filling. However, such partitions, being very light and simple in design, have high sound conductivity.

GYPSUM PARTITIONS.
Partitions made of gypsum slabs are laid before the finished floor is installed on boards with blocks nailed along the edges to form a gutter that prevents the slabs from moving to the sides. The laying of the slabs begins with filling the trench in the tray with gypsum mortar. The first row of slabs is immersed in the solution with the groove facing up. The vertical seams between the slabs are filled with mortar. Before installing the next row of slabs, fill the groove of the first row with mortar, etc. The partition is not brought up to the ceiling by 1-2 cm in order to be able to thoroughly caulk and seal the gap with mortar. High doorways are protected by posts that rest against the ceilings. For low openings door frames installed before the partition is installed. The lintel is carried out by simply overlapping the slabs (with an opening width of less than 1 m) or laying two reinforcement bars filled with gypsum mortar. To protect the gypsum boards from moisture, if the partition rests on the concrete base of the first floor floor, 2 rows of brickwork are laid under the partition over a layer of roofing felt or roofing felt. After laying, the gypsum partition is plastered or rubbed.

BRICK PARTITIONS.
Brick partitions are laid with a thickness of 1/2 brick (12 cm). The basis for the partitions can be concrete preparation for the floors of the first floor or reinforced concrete floors. Due to their significant weight, brick partitions should not be used on wooden floors. The masonry is carried out by tying vertical seams. The surfaces are plastered on both sides. Adjacency brick partitions to walls and ceilings is carried out in the same way as with gypsum partitions. Above doorways arrange jumpers, resting them on 2 reinforcement bars in cement mortar.

Walls are the main element of a house, determining its appearance, operational and aesthetic characteristics. They must satisfy a number of requirements for architectural expressiveness, thermal protection and fire resistance, have sufficient strength and durability, provide the necessary sound insulation, etc.

The choice of material for the walls depends on the taste and financial capabilities of the owner of the house, the traditions of the building area, but you should pay attention to the neighboring houses and listen to the opinion of the architect. Your house should fit into the architectural ensemble and, regardless of the funds invested in construction, look beautiful and organic.

The material for the walls can be wood, brick, natural stone, as well as concrete blocks and panels with various additives (slag, expanded clay, sawdust, etc.).

According to their purpose, walls are classified as external and internal, and according to the perception of loads - load-bearing and non-load-bearing.

Depending on the materials used, walls are conventionally divided into the following types:
wooden from logs, beams, wooden frames,
brick made of solid and hollow clay,
ceramic and silicate bricks and blocks,
stone made of cobblestone, limestone, sandstone, shell rock, tuff, etc.,
lightweight concrete made of gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, slag concrete, argolite, sawdust concrete,
soil concrete made of adobe, compacted soil.

According to the constructive solution, the walls are:
chopped from logs and assembled from wooden beams,
small block made of bricks and small blocks weighing more than 50 kg.,
panel or panel from ready-made wall elements one floor high,
framed from racks and frames covered with sheet or molded materials,
monolithic from concrete and soil,
composite or multilayer using various materials and designs.

Materials for the construction of walls and their design solutions are selected taking into account local climatic conditions, economics, the specified strength and durability of the building, internal comfort and architectural expressiveness of the facades.

Natural stones and solid bricks have the greatest strength and durability.
At the same time, in terms of their heat-protective qualities, they are significantly inferior to lightweight concrete, efficient brick and wood. Their use in “pure form” without combination with other, less thermally conductive materials is justified only in the southern regions of the country.
When building brick walls, you should strive for lightweight masonry, using efficient bricks and creating voids using warm mortar.
Solid brickwork of solid brick walls with a thickness of more than 38 cm is considered impractical.

Reliable in operation and 1.5-2 times cheaper than brick, lightweight concrete walls based on slag, expanded clay or sawdust using cement.
If you use pre-fabricated lightweight concrete blocks, you can significantly reduce the seasonal construction time.

The traditional material for the walls of low-rise buildings is wood.
According to sanitary and hygienic requirements, chopped and cobblestone walls are the most comfortable. Their disadvantages include low fire resistance and sedimentary deformations in the first 1.5-2 years.

If lumber and effective insulation are available, frame walls are quite justified.
They, like chopped ones, do not require massive foundations, but unlike them they do not have post-construction deformations.
When facing frame walls with bricks, their fire resistance and capital strength are significantly increased.

In southern regions with sharp changes in day and night outside air temperatures, walls made of soil concrete (adobe) “behave well”. Due to their great thermal inertia (they heat up and cool down slowly), they create an optimal thermal regime in such a climate.

Types in roof construction

The roof of a house is not only protection from weather conditions (snow, rain, sun, wind, etc.), but also the appearance of the house. A beautiful roof, like an elegant hat, decorates a house and emphasizes its individuality, and is the crown of an architectural structure.

The roof of almost any configuration consists of a supporting structure - roof trusses and sheathing - and the roof itself.

The presence of certain roof elements is determined by its shape and design features.

The shape of the roof is chosen depending on the purpose of the building and its size.

Shed roof most often hidden outbuildings, garages, sheds. For residential and garden houses, gable and mansard roof shapes are traditional. They are easy to manufacture and can be covered with any roofing materials. In the southern regions, hip roofs are more often installed, as they better withstand wind loads.
Roofing materials

Of the roofing materials, slate has the most reliable and durable properties. For low-rise buildings the best roofing material is tiles, but it requires reinforced rafters due to the weight of the tiles.

Roofing steel is used for complex roof configurations. Roll roofing is used to cover utility rooms or as a temporary covering in residential buildings. In one-story houses with an average load-bearing wall usually a roof is installed with inclined rafters, one end resting on the outer wall, the other on a purlin or rack installed above middle wall. The elements of the rafters are connected to each other with rafter brackets and nails.

: 1 - gable; 2 - attic; 3, 4 - hip; 5 - tent; 6 - multi-pincer.

The ends of the rafters are attached to the chopped walls with staples. TO stone walls The rafters are fastened as follows: first, a metal ruff is hammered into the wall, no higher than the fourth seam of the masonry. The rafters are attached to the ruff using wire twists in two loops.

The ends of the rafters of a stone house rest on a beam laid along the entire length of the wall, which distributes the load from the rafters onto the wall. A fire-prevention gap is created in the rafters and sheathing where the chimney passes from the stove; a gap of 13 cm is left between the elements of the rafters, the pipe and the sheathing.

Roof elements: 1 - slopes; 2 - skate; 3 - inclined rib; 4 - groove; 5 - cornice overhang; 6 - gable overhang; 7 - gutter; 8 - drainpipe; 9 - chimney.

Construction roof trusses various shapes have their own characteristics. The basis of any truss is a triangle, as the most rigid and economical structure. It is formed from 2-rafter legs (upper chord of the truss) and a tie (lower chord). The rafter legs are connected at their upper ends to the ridge girder. The lower ends of the rafters, as well as the ends of the lower chord, are attached to the external walls of the house. The structure, consisting only of the upper and lower chords, can only withstand a very light roof. For greater reliability, the trusses are equipped with additional internal supports (struts, risers, contractions).

Construction trusses create the required roof slope, which depends on a number of factors:

Climate features: with a large amount of precipitation, the roof slope is 45° or more, with prevailing winds the slope is much lower, etc.;

Roofing material: when using piece roofing materials, the slope is at least 22°, for roll materials- 5-25° or more, for asbestos-cement sheets and tiles - 25-35° or more.

It must be remembered that as the roof slope increases, the consumption of materials increases, and, accordingly, its cost.

Depending on the method of attaching the truss to the walls of the house, structures with hanging or inclined rafters are distinguished.

Hanging rafters are in the same plane, rigidly connected to each other and supported by two outer supports (outer walls).

: 1 - brace; 2 - single tightening; 3 - board-overlay; 4 - lining; 5 - outer wall; 6 - overlay.

The support for the lower ends of the rafters are mauerlats, hewn into two edges. The simplest hanging trusses consist of rafter legs and a tie (lower chord). To protect the rafter legs from sagging if their cross-section is insufficient, a lattice consisting of a post, struts and a crossbar is inserted between them. This increases the rigidity of the truss structure. The rafter legs are strengthened with staples and tied with wire 4-6 mm thick to ruffs driven into the wall. This protects the roof from possible collapse in strong winds. The lower end of such a twist is secured to a spike or ruff driven into the masonry seam 250-300 mm below the edge of the wall, or to an attic floor beam. In log houses, the rafters are fastened with brackets to the second crown of the frame.

: 1 - brace; 2 - Mauerlat; 3 - twist; 4 - outer wall; 5 - internal wall; 6 - cutting; 7 - lying down; 8 - roofing felt.

For installation hanging rafters it is necessary to raise the rafters made in advance, each separately, to attic floor, and then assemble them, using auxiliary braces and sawing boards for temporary fastening of the truss. The truss units of hanging rafters are assembled with or without a crossbar for spans of up to 6 or 8 meters. Single tightening is made from the same boards as the rafters; for double tightening, boards of smaller thickness are suitable. For crossbar overlays, 25-30 mm boards are suitable. If the rigidity of the roof is provided by a truss, then 1-2 diagonal ties (braces) are installed to counteract wind loads in the transverse direction. The braces are made from boards 30-40 mm thick, attached to the base of the rafter leg and to the middle of the adjacent one. It is most convenient to place the braces above the middle wall. In this case, the boards are nailed to the rack and bed. The cross-section of the rafters depends on the size of the span, the pitch of the rafters and the slope of the roof. The most common rafter pitch is 120 cm.

Inclined rafters are laid obliquely on supports different heights. The supports are either two external walls, or an external and internal wall. When installing a gable roof, a support wall is required for inclined rafters.

The rafter legs of opposite roof slopes can be in the same plane and are laid alternately on the ridge girder. Layered rafters are easy to assemble and do not require complex mechanisms for installation. The units of layered rafters are assembled with struts and racks.

If the width of the building is 10 m, one additional support is sufficient, and if it reaches 15 m, then two supports are desirable. The upper ends of the rafter legs are overlapped using corner pads. The lower ends of the rafters are attached to support bars (mauerlats) measuring 100x100 mm. Mauerlats in most cases are prepared from whole logs, hewn into two edges, but sometimes, in order to save money, they are made from scraps 0.6-0.7 meters long. A middle post is installed in the middle of the truss, on which the top of the upper chord of the truss rests.

A purlin is laid at the top of the roof truss structure, which serves as the basis for the future roof ridge. Ridge run either made from logs with a wide cross-section, or knocked together from two boards 50 mm thick.

For mansard roofs specially designed trusses are made. They can also be installed with mounting on the internal wall (for two-bay houses) or without it (for single-bay houses). A feature of attic trusses is the presence interfloor ceiling instead of a puff. This is due to the fact that the lower belt serves as the basis for the floor of the attic room. The upper and lower chords, as well as vertical risers and horizontal contractions must be paired, made of double beams. For a two-bay attic structure, doubling is not necessary, since it has additional support in the center.

Modern houses with an attic are often made without a broken roof structure, with the wall positioned at an angle to the floor.

: A - hanging truss of a single-span house; B - truss with struts; B - truss for a single-span house more than 8 m wide; G - inclined truss; D - truss for the attic roof.

For lighting attic floor Additional windows are often installed in roof slopes. Such windows can be installed not only for lighting. They are often made in the form of vents designed to access the roof and ventilate the attic space.

In order for the roofs of buildings to have the overhang necessary to drain water from the walls, the tie rods or rafter legs are extended beyond the wall line. Wooden buildings must have an overhang of at least 550 mm.

The sheathing of the building is the basis for the roof deck. Depending on the type of roof, the sheathing can be made of boards, bars or planks.

The sheathing directly bears the load of the roofing material and, in turn, puts pressure on the rafters, and the rafters transfer the weight of the roof to the load-bearing walls.

The sheathing can be continuous, when the gap between the beams does not exceed 1 cm, or sparse. Solid formwork, as a rule, is made of two layers: the first - discharged and the second - solid from boards laid at an angle of 45° relative to the boards of the lower layer.

A continuous sheathing is arranged under soft roof, flat asbestos-cement and non-asbestos slate, metal tiles and soft tiles. Sparse lathing is quite suitable for steel roofing, roofs made of clay or cement-sand tiles, as well as for roofs made of corrugated asbestos-cement sheets.

Sheathing beams are nailed to the rafters with nails, the length of which is equal to the thickness of two beams. At the joints and intersections of slopes (at the ridge, ribs, valleys, valleys), as well as along eaves overhangs, a continuous sheathing is always made.

Typically the supporting structure is made of softwood.

In brick and block houses, rafters and sheathing can be made of reinforced concrete or metal.

The optimal sheathing size for most roofing coverings is bars measuring 50x50 mm (60x60 mm) or poles with a diameter of 70 mm. The average distance between the rafter legs is about 1 m. On roofs with a slope of more than 45°, this distance increases to 1.2-1.4 m and on the roofs of houses located in snowy areas, it decreases to 0.8-0.6 meters .

Distances between rafters of supporting structure (m)

Currently, to facilitate private construction, the industry produces ready-made truss structures, which only need to be assembled, laid on the external walls and lathed on top of them. Load-bearing structures are made of wood, reinforced concrete or metal. All structures are prefabricated. They are delivered to the construction site disassembled and folded on site. A folding structure can consist of several elements packed together. Some structures are quite cumbersome even when disassembled, as they are divided into three large parts: for the eaves and for the ridge. Others are made up of smaller planes. The most convenient to use are hinged structures equipped with hinges either in the ridge girder or along the eaves. Hinges allow the supporting structure to be folded and unfolded without problems.

The shapes of the finished rafter structures reflect almost all existing roof configurations.

The sheathing beams are attached to the finished trusses in the manner provided for by the structure itself. The battens are simply nailed to the rafters made of wood. As for reinforced concrete trusses, they can have either holes for nails, or outlets with a diameter of up to 6 mm, which grip and firmly hold the sheathing bars, or spikes on which the sheathing is pinned.

Often the base for roofing materials requires additional leveling. Thus, reinforced concrete slabs, as well as the base on which semi-rigid or bulk insulation, leveled with screeds made of cement-sand mortar or asphalt concrete.

: 1 - gable truss; 2 - truss with a complex shape of the upper chord; 3 - scissor truss; 4 - vaulted truss; 5 - attic truss.

Leveling with sand asphalt concrete is permissible only on roofs with a slope of no more than 20%.

screeds are performed in the following order: with a slope of up to 15% - first at junctions and valleys, and then on slopes; with a slope of more than 15%, work to level the base is carried out in the reverse order.

Leveling screeds are not installed continuously over the entire surface of the base, but in areas measuring 6x6 m (for cement-sand mortar) or 4x4 m (for asphalt concrete). Between these areas, temperature-shrinkable seams are made 5 mm wide or 1 cm wide with laths placed in them. For lice, strips of roofing material 150 mm wide are laid with spot gluing on one side of the seam.

The thickness of the asphalt concrete screed depends on the base material: if the base is made of concrete or rigid thermal insulation boards, the thickness of the screed should be 15-20 mm, and if made of non-rigid insulation, then 20-30 mm. Asphalt concrete screed is installed only on slopes.

After installing the leveling screed, the base must be immediately primed, which will ensure more durable adhesion of the rolled and waterproofing materials. Before this, all unevenness in the base is sealed with cement mortar. The screeds are primed in strips 4-5 m wide.

The quality of the foundation device is checked according to the following indicators:

Evenness;

Strength and rigidity (the base should not fall or sag underfoot);

Smoothness and roundness of junctions and grooves (for more durable gluing of rolled materials).

The strip foundation is almost universal. It is used both in the construction of small wooden buildings and in the construction of large brick houses. Perfectly suited for any soil. The strip foundation must be laid at least 50-70 cm or 20 cm below the freezing depth.

Let's take a closer look at the design of strip foundations. First, the bottom of the hole dug under the foundation is covered with sand (15-20 cm). Then fill it with water and compact it. Next, crushed stone or gravel is laid in a layer of 10 cm and filled with cement. Then this procedure is repeated layer by layer. Above ground, concrete is placed in formwork to the required level. 3 hours after installation is completed, the entire surface is covered with burlap. With this scheme for pouring a strip foundation, concrete savings of up to 50 percent occur.

In order for the strip foundation to be strong, it is necessary to use premium grade cement. Also, to achieve the best quality when preparing concrete, it is necessary to use clean water, preferably from a well.

Slab foundations quite popular and widespread. Thanks to the rigid design - monolithic slab, made under the entire area of ​​the building, they are not afraid of any movement of the soil: the slab moves with it, protecting the structure of the house from destruction. Therefore, this kind of foundation is also called floating.
A solid slab of floating foundations is made of reinforced concrete and has rigid reinforcement along the entire load-bearing plane. This further increases their resistance to loads arising from freezing, thawing and soil subsidence.

Solid (slab) foundations are used in the following cases:
in case of weak soils at the construction site or under significant loads from the building;
in case of destroyed, washed away or bulk foundation soils;
with uneven compressibility of soils;
if necessary, protection from high level groundwater.

The construction of slab foundations requires a relatively large consumption of concrete and metal and can be justified in low-rise construction when constructing small and simple-shaped buildings and structures on heavy heaving, moving and subsiding soils, as well as in cases where a high base and top are not required slab foundation can be used as a basement floor.

Slab foundations are designed in the form of flat and ribbed slabs or in the form of cross strips. For buildings with heavy loads and also in case of use underground space box foundations are used.
Slab foundations are designed for buildings mainly with a frame structural system. To increase the rigidity of the slab, ribs are arranged in cross directions, which can be made either with the ribs up or down in relation to

At the intersections of the edges of the foundation slab, columns are installed in a frame structural system, and in a wall structure, the ribs are used as the walls of the basement of the building, on which the load-bearing structures of its ground part are installed.
Box-section foundations are used in the construction of high-rise buildings with heavy loads. The ribs of such a slab are made to the full height of the underground part of the building and are rigidly connected to the floors, thus forming closed sections of various configurations.

A columnar foundation, as its name already implies, is a set of individual pillars dug into the ground. First of all, such pillars are located at the intersections of the walls of the house, and at the same time they can be located in the spans between them. The upper end of the pillars is called the head, the lower end is called the base. The house will subsequently be placed on the heads, so all pillars must be at the same level - this will be the floor level of the first floor, usually at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground. Such a gap between the floor of the house and the ground is necessary to avoid dampness, which wooden structures the lower part of the house (namely, wooden houses are most often built on columnar foundations) will quickly rot.

The shape of foundation pillars can be different - square, rectangular, round, but the most common are pillars with a round cross-section, because wells can be drilled under such pillars with a hand drill. The diameter of the pillars can vary from 15 cm or more, but when building a columnar foundation with your own hands you will have to choose from the following diameters: 150 mm, 200 mm, 250 mm, 400 mm. Wells of exactly this diameter can be drilled using most hand drills sold. The depth of a columnar foundation is usually about 2 m (below the freezing depth). The base area of ​​a columnar foundation is small, so in order to withstand the load from the house it must rest on a layer of soil with high bearing capacity.

Foundation columns can be made from different materials: wood, brick, monolithic concrete. Wooden beam or the log can be burned or treated with an antiseptic to prevent (or at least slow down) the wood from rotting. You can also use waterproofing materials, but still such pillars will be the least reliable option.

Brickwork- a completely acceptable option in terms of strength, but this option is far from ideal in terms of ease of construction. It is not possible to lay a pillar of bricks directly in the well itself. Folding the pole completely on the surface of the ground and then lowering it into the hole also does not seem like a quick and pleasant task.

Definitely the best material in all respects is monolithic reinforced concrete. They provide the greatest compressive strength and, when reinforced, tensile strength. A reinforced monolithic pillar will not crack under any influence of frost heaving forces. Diluting the concrete mixture and pouring it into a dug well is quite simple.

Foundation pillars can have constant or variable cross section. In the first case it is a simple cylinder or parallelepiped, in the second it is more complex shape with widening at the bottom of the column. This widening allows you to increase the base area and, accordingly, increase the bearing capacity of the foundation: the weight of the house will be distributed over a larger area. The second advantage is greater resistance to frost heaving of the soil. If the column expands at the bottom, then heaving forces will not be able to push it upward.

Load-bearing walls are supporting structures

Load-bearing walls are the supports of the entire structure. After all, it is on them that the entire frame rests. Therefore, violation of this design can lead to disastrous results. Redevelopment requires special knowledge and qualifications.

Engineers and builders - only these people can correctly and competently carry out the redevelopment of the premises. Therefore, if you are planning to demolish a wall or simply make a niche, then you need to immediately contact professionals.

No matter how much work you need to do, even if you only want to make a recess in the wall, it is very important to adhere to the advice and opinion of professionals.

Everyone knows that load-bearing walls cannot be demolished or broken. But sometimes redevelopment requires just that. First of all, you should figure out which walls are load-bearing and only after that decide what and how to do.

We do everything in the following order:

• You should start by inviting specialists from the BTI, who will issue you the appropriate permit if the redevelopment is possible and safe. The issued document indicates walls that can be demolished without compromising the strength of the apartment or house. After these procedures, you can contact architects and builders to begin redevelopment and further repair work.
• In addition, it is very important not to forget that the redevelopment must be legalized, otherwise problems may arise with the further sale of the apartment. However, it will take a lot of time and effort to legitimize the finished redevelopment.
• If you are interested in knowing in advance which walls in your apartment are load-bearing, then there are several simple ways that will allow you to install this. Each person can determine for himself which walls of the apartment are load-bearing, in order to think through future redevelopment in advance, and after receiving official results, simply adjust it in accordance with safety requirements.

Having decided to start repairing and rebuilding load-bearing walls, or making arches (see Arch in an apartment: transformation into a decorative structure) or doors, you need to decide how realistic it is to do this. And understand which walls in the apartment are load-bearing, what their function is and what can be done with them. Let's look at these questions in order.

What are the requirements for load-bearing walls?

Walls, ceilings, floors are load-bearing structures in principle in all buildings. Precisely walls, not partitions (see Partitions and walls - what is the difference).

They are presented certain requirements and if the design is changed, the requirements must be met, and they are as follows:

Firstly	They must be strong, durable and stable, as they are the support of the entire building. The weight of both the roof and ceiling passes onto them.
Secondly	Must be fireproof and comply with all safety standards.
Third	The walls must have good sound insulation. After all, these are outdoor structures and face the street.
Fourth	You now know what a load-bearing wall is; it is in a vertical position. But there is also horizontal pressure on it. After all, floor slabs act not only vertically, but also horizontally. Therefore, when making a cut in the wall, this must be taken into account. In the photo you can see the load distribution.

A load-bearing wall is a structure that carries a certain load. This is where the thickness parameter is quite important.

You need to know that the thickness of brick, monolithic external or panel internal walls has its own regulatory indications, that is, a standard width that always remains the same. This criterion greatly simplifies the procedure for determining load-bearing and ordinary walls.

Rules for determining a load-bearing wall

What types of load-bearing walls there are are described above, now let’s move on to the question of definition load-bearing structures. Everything can be understood from the documents, or you can look and determine it yourself.

So:

• The most effective and correct method - this is the study of the structural plan of the house, where all the walls and their width are indicated. But if you are not an expert in this field, then there may be some problems with reading and correct interpretation. Therefore, entrust this moment to a specialist who is well versed in all the intricacies and will guarantee the safety of your redevelopment.
• Second and no less effective, but a less complicated method is to determine load-bearing walls by location and standard wall width. External walls buildings are always load-bearing and supporting walls. In a brick house, all walls that are less than 25 cm wide are the most common walls. They do not carry any strategic load for the house.

If we are talking about monolithic houses, then in this case it is very difficult to determine where which wall is. This is explained by the fact that the width of all walls is absolutely the same, and it does not matter whether it is a load-bearing wall or not. Therefore, you should refer to the development plan.

What methods exist for determining load-bearing walls?

Which walls are load-bearing in Brezhnevka or Stalin are determined in the same way. The determination instructions will be as follows:

Definition according to documents:

Wall thickness as the main indicator

A load-bearing wall is a support that must also have its own thickness. It is regulated by the load level.

Brick house	For a brick house, all walls wider than 38 cm will be considered load-bearing. The thickness of the walls itself can be determined by the number of bricks that are laid out in a row.
Panel house	A panel house is characterized by walls up to 14 cm thick, and those that are larger will be considered load-bearing. It should be noted that the walls in this type of building are almost all load-bearing, therefore, it may simply be unrealistic and not safe to implement the redevelopment. type of panel construction, the thickness of the walls can be 12 cm. But how can we determine in this case whether the wall is a simple partition or a load-bearing wall? The answer to this question can only be given by a qualified specialist - an engineer.
Monolithic structure	As for monolithic houses, a load-bearing wall will be considered such if it is 20 cm or more. For such houses, the best method to find out which walls are load-bearing is the floor plan, which should be kept by the developer. Due to the fact that there are many different design options for development, determining load-bearing walls becomes much more difficult. A striking example is monolithic frame houses, which may not have load-bearing walls at all, or the partition may be 20 cm wide. This question can only be clarified by a correct reading of the architectural plan.

Attention: In addition, it is very important to remember that wall thickness measurements should be made only on cleaned walls. That is, before measuring the width of the wall, you need to remove all finishing materials.

The location of the walls will also indicate load-bearing walls

First of all, the load-bearing walls are those walls that form the main frame of the building. The same type of walls can include those directed towards the flight of stairs, as well as interior walls that are in contact with the neighbors’ apartment.

Once you have established the location of the load-bearing walls, it is very important to remember and know the following nuances:

• Firstly, completely demolishing a load-bearing wall is strictly contraindicated, since the upper floor cannot be without appropriate support.
• Secondly, when removing a small part of the wall, you should always install supports. Such supports can then be decorated as columns or false beams. Such elements can not only be functional, but can also become an interesting part of the decor.
• Thirdly, if you decide to completely demolish the wall, you must ensure safe and reliable support. The location of additional supports and their dimensions should be determined by specialists.

There are several nuances in wall measurements, without knowledge of which it is impossible to correctly calculate the width of the wall. And this is fraught with what you can accept curtain wall for the carrier or vice versa.

The consequences of such an error may be irreversible. Therefore, in order to take measurements as accurately as possible, experts strongly recommend clearing the walls of all finishing materials. That is, measurements should be made only on previously prepared walls.

• As for determining load-bearing walls by location in the room, it must be emphasized that they are always localized perpendicular to the floors. Simply put, floor slabs always lie on load-bearing walls.
• As a result, it should be noted that there are many different ways to determine the location of load-bearing partitions, but not everyone can use them correctly. Therefore, it is better to entrust this matter to a qualified specialist, an organization that is engaged in design activities; they will be able to conduct a high-quality engineering inspection of your apartment. If we are talking about an atypical layout or non-standard construction, then you simply cannot do without qualified specialists.

Thus, it is necessary to once again emphasize that it is extremely undesirable to engage in redevelopment, since only a qualified professional in his field can do it as safely, efficiently and quickly as possible. Independent, unqualified redevelopment can be fatal and irreversible not only for your apartment, but also for the house as a whole.

What to do if neighbors break down a load-bearing wall, the answer is simple, you need to immediately contact the housing department. After all, this can lead to the destruction of the house. After all, the price of the issue is quite high and it’s not worth just looking. You can watch the video in this article for additional necessary information.

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