Enough challenging task laying tiles on the floor is considered, but with a sufficient amount of preparation, and most importantly, when planning the work, this stereotype can be destroyed. Independent masonry tiles are much cheaper (and, perhaps, more interesting) than professional ones. Moreover, the cost of masonry can be kept to a minimum if everything is carefully planned and prepared.
Laying tiles starts from the corner of the wall and proceeds sequentially to the center.
To work you will need:
Materials:
- Tile of your choice.
- Tile adhesive or mastic.
- Grout.
- Mounting crosses for tiles (for tiles up to 20 cm in size, the thickness of the cross should be no more than 2 mm, over 20 cm - no more than 3 mm).
Tools:
Tools for laying tiles: Notched trowel, trowel, tile saw, rubber spatula, level.
- Notched trowel, trowel.
- Saw for cutting tiles.
- Diamond bits for cutting holes (electric tile cutter or a circular saw with diamond coating and water bath).
- Rubber spatula, sponge and bath (basin) with warm water.
- Tape measure or laser level.
- Level, construction cord, chalk, marker.
To do this, take 4 steps.
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The process of laying tiles with your own hands
When preparing a floor for laying tiles, the first thing you have to deal with is its base. If this is a new building, then everything is in your hands: screed, plywood, tiles. But if you are doing masonry work in an already lived-in apartment, then you need to know what your floor is made of. Plywood as a base for the face covering is good, but if you have a typical option, from 1.2 to 1.6 cm of chipboard per top layer, then you have a job to do - removing the base floor finish and replacing it with plywood. If your floor has a different base, you need to make sure it is firmly attached before laying begins. If everything is in order, then you are ready to proceed to applying the leveling mixture to the floor (if necessary).
But if you need to prepare the base, use the following tips:
- Remove the baseboard and old flooring.
- The base must be strong and at least 3 cm thick. It is better to install plywood or sheets of dry screed on the floor.
- To level the floor level, use expanded clay.
Evaluate the space for laying tiles. The first stage of assessment is determining the size of the room and the size of the tiles. The number of tiles you need will depend on these two factors, as well as the tile pattern you want to have on your floor.
Using a tape measure or digital laser, measure the distance between opposite walls of the room and determine total area. For example, the distance between two opposite walls is 2 and 3 m, respectively. By multiplying 2x3, you get a total room area of 6 sq.m. In the calculations, add at least another 10% of the area to the floor to take into account tile breakage. Thus, the final footage will be 6.6 sq.m.
If the room is not a perfect square, but has the appearance of a rectangle, then this will affect the determination of the center of the floor of the room, which will have to be taken into account when calculating the number of tiles, especially if you are attracted to masonry with some special pattern.
It is important to know that there are several types of tiles:
- parallel (seam to seam);
- “in a running start” (laying with the displacement of tiles in the next row in relation to the previous one);
- diagonally (with frieze).
Schemes for laying tiles: parallel, “in a run,” diagonally.
The tiles come in three main sizes: 10x10 cm, 20x20 cm and 30x30 cm. There may be other options depending on the manufacturer and national standards, so in order not to make mistakes in the calculations, visit the store building materials and decide on the choice of tiles. Calculate the amount of tiles, adding 10% for the battle or 15% for diagonal laying. Simply put, buy an extra pack of tiles or two.
When choosing a color, you can only be limited by your imagination (and store promotions). Therefore, the only preparatory aspect in this will be the choice of grout. Grout is the “filler” of the spaces between tiles. Typically, dark-colored tiles with light grout show the gaps between the tiles more clearly, and vice versa. There are no hard and fast rules here, and it all depends on how you would like your gender to look.
Prepare the floor surface on which the tiles will be laid. You will need a leveling mixture that will level out all the protrusions and depressions in the floor. Without this, when laying, due to significant differences in level, the tile will “lead” and it will crack. You can usually purchase this mixture in the same stores where tiles are sold.
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Preparing for the masonry process
Find the center point of the room's floor. Finding the center point is critical to . It will show where you will place the first tile. If the room has the shape of a regular rectangle, then its center is at the intersection of two diagonals. Pull a construction cord from two opposite corners and use it to mark a line on the floor, repeat this with the other two corners. The intersection point will be the middle of the room.
If it is difficult to draw a diagonal, mark the middle of each wall, stretch the cord from middle to middle and also mark a line, repeat this for the other two walls. So, based on the room example above, the center of the room floor is 1 m from the wall (on the short side) and 3 m (on the long side). This means that in the first quadrant from the center of the floor to the wall on the short side you are using 3 full tiles and one tile that will need to be cut down to 1/3 the size. Along the long side there will be 5 full tiles laid from the center to the wall. Likewise for the remaining three quadrants.
If you don't have diamond bits, you can use a glass cutter, an angular grinder or an electric tile cutter (diamond-coated circular saw and a bath of water). This tool is needed for drilling and cutting holes in tiles.
What matters is how to do it. Mark a square on the back of the tile where it will meet the pipe. Install carefully reverse side tiles against a wet saw blade and carefully cut out the hole. If it is not possible to insert the pipe into the hole in the tile, then it is better to make the hole with a groove.
Lay out a line of tiles along each of the chalk lines on the floor before using grout to get an idea of the overall picture and make any necessary adjustments. After this “rehearsal”, collect all the tiles, set them aside and move on to the next step.
Bathroom renovations are rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if they have already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: to hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried-and-true tiler in mind and a certain amount of money (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire him. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively smooth, everything should work out without any particular difficulties. But just before laying tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.
It starts, as usual, with choosing a tile. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So, let's check:
From experience, it is worth saying that ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it externally, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you will be tired of running around the shops. What you shouldn’t do is buy tiles “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it? Take only what you hold in your hands.
What are the tiles placed on?
Previously, tiles were laid on cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do it this way, but it will be more difficult. For more comfortable work use ready-made compositions They are also called “tile adhesive” because they contain adhesive components, which is why they sometimes say that tiles are “glued” to walls. Compositions come in two types:
- in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
- in bags - dry mixtures that require dilution with water.
Professionals mainly use dry mixtures. If necessary, they can be used to correct an imperfect wall, making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain their plasticity longer, which allows adjustments to be made some time later. They work with mastic according to perfect wall and there can be no deviations here: the layer is too thin.
When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions that contain additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant ones, this will come in handy if you put it in unheated room or on the street. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will prevent fungi and mold from developing, which is in demand in damp rooms.
Preparatory work
Before laying tiles on the wall, a number of preparatory measures are carried out. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is extremely undesirable to skip it: not every master, let alone beginners, can lay tiles properly on uneven, unprepared walls.
Leveling the surface
First of all, the old coating and anything that may fall off is removed from the walls. If there greasy spots, they are taken out, or part of the plaster is simply cut down along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapping wooden hammer, determining by sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet been blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. That’s why you do all these places yourself.
A flat plank is applied to the cleaned base and an assessment is made of how smooth or crooked the walls are. If the wall surface is very convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to a level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively flat, only indentations that are too large are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or holes) that are more than 5 mm. Protrusions need to be cut off, holes need to be filled plaster mixture, widen the cracks, moisten them and also cover them with plaster.
We prime
It is advisable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. “Betonokontakt” or another composition with similar characteristics. It penetrates to a fairly large thickness deep into the wall, connecting all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, and tile adhesive “sticks” to it very well.
How to start
There are several possible starting points. To put it quite simply, you can lay out the first row right from the corner, following the floor line. But the first row will become level and without problems only if the floor is perfectly level, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will be trimming the tiles to somehow get vertical joints. As a result of these prunings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall, finding the “start” points.
Wall marking
If you don't really care about the small pieces of tile that have to be placed in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want all the tiles to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:
If it turns out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try laying it out from the seam, and vice versa. It should come out better.
When placing tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In the bathroom this is often the edge of the installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, arrange (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. This way you will find how to trim the tiles of the top and bottom rows.
There is another way to arrange it vertically: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be trimmed. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.
In any case, when calculating how to lay tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. This usually serves as a starting point. This is where the laying of tiles begins.
Start line
Based on the layout results, you have a line where the first row ends. It is at this height that a flat bar is nailed. Resting the tile on it, place the starting row, and all subsequent rows on it. The last row to be installed is the first row, into which the tiles will have to be cut.
Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support strip, but a flat dry block can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). To lay tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fasten them often enough so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check that it is installed horizontally. There shouldn't be even the slightest deviation.
How to lay tiles on a wall
The technology for laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:
A few nuances about the complete process. First, the outer whole tiles (those that do not need to be trimmed) are glued to the marked places on the installed plank. When laying out, you noted their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked with a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the geometry of the tile is ideal, you can also check the verticality/horizontalness along the edges. Then they take a long level or an even bar with a shorter level and check how evenly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, using this bar, they check whether each subsequent tile is positioned correctly.
Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology; after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.
Wall adhesive thickness
For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, they may have questions about how thick the adhesive layer is needed. This value depends on how much smooth walls. If they are perfect, you can apply minimum layer, permissible in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively flat, the “starting” layer can be 3-4 mm. Then, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.
There are several masonry techniques ceramic tiles. It is not always the case that glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some craftsmen apply the composition only to the wall, others - only to the tiles, some recommend dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not do this. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for novice tilers when the mortar is on both the wall and the tile: it is easier to move and level it.
Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly flat base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.
With other techniques, consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But you should definitely listen to the prescribed sizes of the spatula teeth.
How to cut tiles
There are several ways. Suitable for small volumes and not very thick tiles manual tile cutter. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are placed. Fusing pads are attached to the platform along which the cutter moves. The cutter moves with the help of a handle, ripping durable coating. A stop is usually installed on the same handle, with which the tiles are broken along the line drawn by the cutter.
Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. In addition, it will not be possible to make a perfectly even cut, but emergency will do.
If necessary, round holes cut out using a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, to ensure that there is as little dust as possible, the work area is constantly watered with water. The result is a perfect hole and everything looks decent.
If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it with a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then drawing a line cutting disc or a rod (for some companies the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.
If the edge turns out to be very uneven, you can smooth it out a little with a file or sandpaper, fixed on a block.
Decoration of corners
If the tiles are laid evenly, the internal corners do not raise any questions. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they are not in the way or break off the protruding parts. In general, they join neatly in the corners, and the final seam is formed using grout.
Available for internal corners more profiles. They are matched to the tone of the grout, installed in the corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, the tiles rest on them. This results in a finished fillet seam.
External corners are more difficult. If you simply join the tiles, overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To arrange it properly outside corner you have to cut the edge at 45°.
This can be done using a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work with a grinder. The first cut, at approximately the desired angle, is made smooth diamond blade. There should be no slits or holes in it, and the spraying should also be even.
It turns out not very smooth, and the outer edge is quite thick. But this is only preliminary processing. We bring the cut to the required parameters sanding attachment with the same disk. See the video for more details.
If you don’t want to bother with such trimming, there is another option - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.
Another video about how you can arrange junctions and seams when laying tiles.
To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.
When finishing kitchen apron ceramic tile technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The “start” location is determined by the height of the tabletop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Attach the bar at the required level, align it exactly with the horizon, and you are ready to begin.
An apron in the kitchen is usually made using working wall. If it is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.
If it is laid out from small-sized tiles, the undercuts may not be very noticeable. If you want to do everything symmetrically, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.
By doing finishing works can be used in the bathroom various options finishing, but, of course, the most practical of them was and remains tiling. Enough high price tiles are compensated by the long service life of the coating. And if you want to save on repairs, it’s worth mastering such an activity as Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.
It is generally accepted that laying tiles is a very hard work, so not everyone House master undertakes its implementation. In fact, there is nothing particularly difficult in masonry technology; the main component of success is careful preparation and constant monitoring of the correct placement of the tiles.
Where should you start finishing?
You should start working by taking measurements. You will need to arm yourself with a tape measure and measure:
- The width of the walls.
- Their height.
- The width and height of the door (as well as the window, if any).
The results obtained will be useful for calculating the amount of required materials.
Choosing tiles for the bathroom
When purchasing a material, you need to pay attention not only to its appearance(although this is certainly important point), but also on its quality.
Criteria for good quality tiles
High-quality material has the following characteristics:
- The corners are straight and clear.
- The painting has no defects in the form of spots or streaks.
- Glaze ( outer covering glossy tiles) dense, without visible pores.
- The surface is perfectly flat.
Advice! To check whether the selected tile is actually flat, you should fold two pieces front side inside. If it is of high quality, there will not be the slightest gap at the joint.
Purpose of the tile
When purchasing tiles, you must pay attention to their purpose. The fact is that tiles intended for wall cladding are not particularly durable, so they cannot be used as floor tiles.
There are also on sale universal species tiles that can be used both for wall decoration and for laying on the floor. However, like all other materials that combine two-in-one functions, they are less durable than specially designed materials.
Advice! The best option floor tiles– clinker or porcelain stoneware. These materials are strong, abrasion-resistant, and durable.
Preparing to lay tiles
In order to complete the repair as quickly as possible, you first need to be well prepared for it.
Required tools and materials
To tidy the walls and floors in the bathroom you will need to have on hand:
- Facing materials in sufficient quantities - tiles for floors, walls, friezes, borders, decorative elements.
Advice! When purchasing tiles, you must definitely take the material in reserve, since some of the tiles may be damaged as a result of damage or a carelessly made cut. When using simple laying methods, it is enough to purchase 5% more material than the calculated quantity. When using more complex layout options, for example, diagonal, the amount of material must be increased by 10% of the calculated one.
- Tile adhesive in the form of a dry mixture.
- Mounting crosses. These are special parts made of plastic, designed to form between tile joints equal width.
- The grouting composition is fugue. This material is necessary for grouting joints on a tiled surface.
In addition, you will need to prepare a set of tools:
- To mark and control the correct placement of the tiles, you will need a pencil, tape measure, plumb line and level.
- For cooking adhesive composition You will need a container and a drill with a stirring attachment. In addition, for the drill you will need to purchase a special attachment for drilling holes in the tiles.
- For cutting you will need special tool– tile cutter and metal ruler.
- To work with adhesive and grout, you need to get a metal spatula with a serrated edge and a rubber spatula.
Surface preparation
It must be said that what the finished finish will look like depends 70% on how well the surfaces are prepared. The preparation of walls and floors can be divided into several stages:
- Cleaning. If the bathroom tiles are laid in a new building, then cleaning the surfaces involves removing dust. If the renovation is carried out in a building that is already in use, then the old finishing will need to be removed. The hardest part is removing paint from walls and floors or knocking off old finishes. To carry out this work you have to resort to the help of a hammer and chisel.
- Leveling surfaces. Most often, the walls and floors in the premises are initially uneven, so before proceeding with further finishing, you will have to spend time leveling them. To do this, the protrusions are removed and the recesses are sealed. If the wall does not have significant differences in height, then it is enough to putty it with the starting composition. If there are more serious irregularities, plaster solutions based on cement and sand are used. To level the floor, most often you have to make a new screed.
Advice! To level the walls, you can cover them with plasterboard; for the bathroom, of course, you should use a moisture-resistant version of the material.
Priming and waterproofing
Since in most cases, the tiles are planned to be glued to porous surfaces (concrete, plaster mortar, drywall, etc.), mandatory preparatory event is the application of primer and waterproofing.
Tiling bathroom walls and floors
It is better to start cladding with finishing the walls. Of course, you can put it on the floor first, but if when working with wall tiles If the master accidentally drops a heavy tool, it may break. On the other hand, if you first make the floor, then when facing the walls you can focus on the flat surface of the new flooring. So the choice of the order of work is up to the master.
Wall covering
You should start working by clarifying the layout plan and marking:
- By applying the tiles to the wall (without glue), find out how many rows of whole tiles fit on the wall in height. They start measuring from the top point, that is, from the ceiling. In this case, the layer of cut tiles will be at the bottom and will be hardly noticeable.
- Mark the level of location of the first row of tiles from the floor. The tile level points (top and bottom edges) are transferred to the walls using a level. It is convenient to mark lines using the beating method using a cord with pigment.
- Now you need to outline the location of the horizontal row and determine where the cut tiles will be located. To do this, lay dry tiles, not greased with glue, along the wall. To achieve a symmetrical appearance of the surface, it is recommended to choose a laying option so that the corners have tiles cut to the same width.
- It is strictly not recommended to choose a layout option in which you will need to stick a very narrow piece (2-3 cm) in one of the corners. Firstly, this solution does not look very nice, and secondly, it is quite difficult to cut such a narrow strip, it cracks and the number of defects increases. In this case, it is better to cut the first tile to the required width, and place a whole one at the end of the row.
- How to cut tiles so that the cut comes out even? First, it is recommended to moisten the back side of the tile, then draw along the previously marked line with a tile cutter. To ensure an even cut, guide the tool along a metal ruler placed along the cutting line. Next, place it on the edge of the table so that the cutting line is on its edge. With one hand they hold a part of the tile lying on the table, with the other they gently press on the edge that is hanging. It should break along the cut line.
- When marking, you should strictly ensure that the seam between the tiles does not fall at the junction of the cement slabs.
- It is recommended to lay the tiles from the very bottom row, that is, from the floor or from the side of the bathtub, if the space behind the bathtub will not be tiled.
- At the start of installation, it is recommended to level wooden slats, on which the first row of tiles will rest. After the glue has dried, the slats will need to be removed.
- To constantly monitor the correct placement of the tiles, it is recommended to apply control lines strictly horizontally and vertically on the walls with a marker in advance. Such lines will be very helpful in your work.
- Prepared according to instructions glue solution applied with a spatula to small area walls (approximately 0.5 square meter). Apply glue to large plots there is no point, since it quickly dries out and loses its properties.
- Place the tile on the area coated with glue; if it does not fit in place, it should be knocked down with a rubber hammer.
- To achieve the same distance between the tiles in the rows, mounting crosses are installed between them. Then, after the glue has dried slightly, the crosses will need to be removed.
Floor covering
This part of the work is somewhat simpler, if only because the floor area is smaller than the area of the walls, and floor tiles are usually larger in size. However, the last statement is not always true; some people prefer to use small floor tiles to lay out various patterns:
- It is recommended to start facing from the far corner. When viewed from the entrance to the room.
- Applying glue and laying tiles is done in the same way as when tiling walls. The degree of evenness of the floor should be adjusted by level.
- The floor tiles should form a right angle at the intersection with the wall tiles. It is recommended to treat the joint with sealant.
Grouting tile joints in the bathroom
The last stage cladding is to grout the joints. This operation should be started only after the tile adhesive has dried thoroughly. Grouting compounds are applied using a soft rubber spatula, movements should be directed along the diagonal of the wall.
After the grout has dried, its excess is removed with a wet sponge. It is very important not to run the sponge parallel to the seams, as this can lead to the grout being washed out of them.
Do it yourself facing works quite possible. Beginners in the tiling business should initially choose the most simple circuits layout of tiles and do not forget to constantly monitor the correct location of the laid tiles.
Have you decided to make the long-awaited renovation in your apartment and lay the floor with ceramic tiles? All that remains is to buy a suitable tile and decide on the method of laying it.
Important! When choosing ceramic tiles consider the size and shape of the room. Prepare the surface: level all loose areas, plaster, prime. Depending on the tile installation option, calculate its consumption with a margin of 10%. Don't forget to take into account the distance between the tiles (seam).
Before you start developing a scheme for laying tiles on the floor, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with its main methods.
Video: how to choose a method for laying floor tiles
1. Traditional
This is the most common way. Provides for the arrangement of ceramic tiles parallel to the floor and close to each other in even rows. The key to quality cladding is evenness. Typically, square tiles are used to create this pattern, but rectangular tiles will also look good.
Traditional way of laying tiles
Features of the drawing. Traditional masonry will have an unusual and original look if using tiles different colors. This is the simplest and at the same time quick way when laying tiles, however, some important points should be taken into account:
- with the slightest manufacturing defect in the tiles or careless installation, all the irregularities and inaccuracies will be immediately evident;
- The cladding with this option looks a little monotonous;
- This method is optimal only for seamless ceramic tiles.
Laying technology. It is important to maintain uniformity of laying, as well as the horizontal and vertical dimensions of the seams. Does not require professional training or skill.
2. Diagonal
This is the most beautiful and complex option, despite the fact that the diagonal method is based on basic styling skills. The difficulty lies in the diagonal axes along which the floor tiles are located. Mandatory cutting of tiles requires certain skills, significant expenditures of material and time, which also creates difficulties when tiling using this method.
Diagonal method laying tiles
The advantage of diagonal masonry is the ability to perfectly hide the curvature of the surface. It is most often used for cladding non-standard and small-sized surfaces.
Features of the drawing. When laying, the pattern grid should be located at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor. Square tiles are ideal. The pattern looks very interesting even when using plain ceramic tiles.
It is necessary to remember large quantities waste, since the tiles adjacent to the walls must be trimmed. This the best option, hiding all the errors of an uneven floor. The room visually expands.
Laying technology. It is important to remember to accurately calculate the diagonal pattern. Before laying, you should thoroughly clean the floor surface from paint, linoleum, and wood particles, then prime it. Ceramic tiles are much easier to lay on a perfectly flat floor, and a minimum of glue is consumed.
The first row is laid in the traditional straight way using rectangular tiles, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the main square tiles. The second row is laid from pre-cut tile triangles (hypotenuse down). All subsequent rows can be laid in horizontal rows, observing the principle of diagonal layout.
3. Offset (staggered)
This method is reminiscent of brickwork. Quite frequent and original way laying tiles on the floor. Rectangular, monochromatic tiles look best, although square ones are often used. The offset cladding method will create a historical atmosphere in your room. Suitable option to avoid overall monotony and hide minor defects.
Method of laying tiles with offset (staggered)
Photo: laying contrasting tiles with offset
Features of the drawing. Brickwork and corridor, giving the room originality. Laying “staggered” is done only in horizontal rows, and each tile of the next row is laid so that its middle coincides with the seam of the previous row.
4. Herringbone styling
The method involves laying ceramic tiles in the form of parquet. This floor looks very interesting and unusual. For laying "Christmas trees" use rectangular tiles. There are two options for this installation scheme:
Laying tiles in a herringbone pattern
A beautiful bathroom is a place of relaxation and restoration. Walls shining with cleanliness and original design will be able to relieve fatigue after a working day and lift your spirits, so the decor of the room requires a special approach, and a competent layout of tiles can emphasize the taste and originality of the owners. On modern market is provided wide choose finishing materials for the bathroom, but ceramic tiles are the most popular. Thanks to its wear-resistant and waterproof qualities, this material occupies a leading place when decorating walls in the bathroom.
Before starting cladding, it is necessary to select the appropriate material. Color, tile parameters and layout method can visually enlarge or reduce a room. Most often, rectangular tiles are used for wall cladding, standard height which is 30 cm. The horizontal layout of light colors can visually expand the room, and the vertical layout visually stretches it out.
- Select small tiles;
- Give preference to cool colors;
- Cover with glossy tiles so that light is reflected from the surface;
- Place ceramics on the floor diagonally to increase the volume of the room;
- Alternate vertical stripes according to color scheme.
For a room with a low ceiling, it is necessary to position the frieze vertically, highlight the corners of the room color scheme, install decorative details at eye level. Such small tricks will help hide defects in the room and give the room more space.
Possible tile layout options
The tiles can be laid out different ways, it all depends on design idea and the fantasies of the owners. The most in a simple way cladding is basic styling. Each tile is glued next to the other, parallel to the corners in the room. This method produces a clear geometric pattern. To check the horizontal, use a level, the vertical is determined using a plumb line. You can use modern laser levels. Even a beginner can cope with such cladding. The plus is economical consumption material.
Basic layout options:
- Basic method;
- Dressing method;
- Diagonal masonry;
- Chess pattern;
- Modular installation;
- Linear design;
- Masonry with ornaments.
The dressing method looks a little more interesting and contributes to the visual expansion of the walls of the room. The elements are laid horizontally, moving the seams of the next row to the middle of the previous element. The diagonal layout effectively benefits the pattern, visually enlarging the room and masking its uneven geometry. This cladding option requires experience and skill. The disadvantage is high consumption elements due to cutting tiles. Start the layout from the bottom row, cut diagonally. Next, the entire elements are laid at an angle of 45ᵒ. The checkerboard version is usually made from square elements of different colors. The execution method is based on the basic method. Modular installation looks extremely interesting, but requires some skill.
Tiles used different sizes, from which all possible geometric shapes are made.
For the linear option, select tiles of 2 or 3 colors. Lay in the basic way, alternating color lines, which can be located both vertically and horizontally. The ornament, as a layout option, can be used in basic and diamond-shaped cladding. The pattern and color depend on the tastes of the owners.
How to correctly and accurately lay out tiles in the bathroom
To properly lay out the tiles in the bathroom, you need to make a plan on paper. To do this, take measurements of the room and transfer it to a sheet of paper to scale, carefully observing the proportions. Next, determine the size of the collection. The layout must begin from the central wall. The tiles are placed in such a way that there are no narrow stripes in the corners of the room.
Location rules:
- Whole elements are placed on the surface, for example, 6 tiles are included, and a small gap of 10-15 cm remains;
- One element is removed, leaving 5 pieces, which are placed in the center of the wall;
- The cut elements must be placed in the corners.
In this option, the consumption of tiles will be a little more, but the result is worth it. The optimal layout of the tiles is considered to be from the level of the bathroom, this way you are guaranteed to get a beautiful cladding and there will be no narrow stripes above the sides. The procedure for laying tiles in a small bathroom is not complicated.
The cladding is carried out from the bathroom to the ceiling.
The first row must be started at a distance of 2 mm from the edge for further grouting. Next, rows are laid in the rest of the room. The last step is priming the floor and laying tiles on the floor. If the floor tiles are laid out diagonally, work begins from the corner of the room. When large area, floor covering can be started from the middle of the room.
Original tile layout on the bathroom floor
To create a unique effect in the bathroom, you can use a combined flooring installation. Select the perimeter of the room more dark color, and in the middle apply the diagonal method. Combined options They look very nice in large rooms.
In addition to the listed tile layouts, there are some other methods:
- Herringbone. This scheme is an imitation of parquet flooring. The lines of the Christmas tree do not run parallel to the walls of the room. Thin tiles laid at an angle expand the area of the room.
- Diagonal laying with small inserts adds originality and chic to the room. It helps to hide the unevenness of the perimeter and visually refracts clear lines.
- Combined. There is a combination of the above methods.
Interesting tile layout
It is better to take bathroom tiles from one manufacturer, this guarantees similarity and the same thickness of the elements. Before laying out the cladding, you need to think about color scheme. Classic option is considered to be a dark bottom, a light top, separated by a decorative border. The advantage is ease of installation and visual expansion of the room.
A fashionable trend is to highlight significant elements with the help of a color stripe, when it starts on the wall and continues on the floor. This design makes the ceilings higher. You can combine stripes with 3 colors, adding height to the room. This design will make the room narrower. If you alternate horizontal and vertical lines, this effect can be avoided.
The arrangement of different colors gives a contrasting effect. You can highlight the bathroom with tiles of the same color, and opposite walls and adjacent areas to others. This layout will highlight the bathing area and the main room.
A bathroom with a splash effect looks stylish. The main background is covered with plain Martinique tiles, and several colored elements, similar to large drops, are randomly added. This design is suitable for large premises. A kaleidoscope made of multi-colored 20x20 cm tiles stands out in an original and random way. This solution is suitable for lovers of bright and cheerful ideas. A cheerful environment will charge you with positive energy. IN Lately It is fashionable to use pictures with a 3D effect, which can be placed both on the wall and on the floor, creating magnificent effects and influencing visual perception premises.
Beautiful tile layout (video)
Choosing a tile design today is not difficult. Examples of collections are displayed in special stands of construction stores. Rich assortment and different kinds Ceramic tiles allow you to realize the most creative ideas.