This tool is a profile in the form of an inverted letter P. There are slots on the sides for sawing at an angle of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. More complex corner templates or miter boxes have devices for setting different cutting angles.
For an inexperienced craftsman, the best option would be to purchase a ready-made miter box at a hardware store. At home, it can be made from three planed boards or plywood.
The tool can be assembled by fastening pre-prepared parts together. The corner template box must be secured using wood glue or screws. The side walls of the miter box must be strictly parallel to one another. Horizontal beam should create a strict perpendicular to the sides.
Step 3: we mark slots at different angles to cut laminate, trim, etc.
The application of the slots will affect the accuracy of the work performed in the future. Therefore, this process must be approached with special care. It is advisable to make cuts using the same hacksaw that will be used to perform the work.
Step 4: preparing the material to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees
It is necessary to secure the finished corner template on the desktop using a clamp. Next, markings for the future cut should be applied to the workpiece. Next, you need to align the workpiece with the 45-degree slot inside the miter box and press firmly.
The hacksaw must be inserted into the corresponding grooves of the corner template and cut the workpiece. The grooves will limit the movements of the saw and the cut will be carried out in the desired direction.
Subtleties of working with a miter box and various materials
When sawing elements such as baseboards, it is not always necessary to make a 90-degree cut. After all, the walls in the room may be uneven. Before sawing the baseboard, it is necessary to adjust the angle of the cut.
Thus, the article described and characterized the sawing process wooden materials using a miter box.
Door frames are important element in the appearance of the door. Platbands highlight and emphasize the door in the interior. Great importance depends on the angle at which they join: at an angle of 90 degrees or 45. In which cases one or another option is appropriate, we will analyze it in this short material.
The standard width of the platbands is 70 mm, but they can be wider. The shapes are divided into rounded, flat and embossed. According to the mounting method, conventional and telescopic.
Any platbands are joined at an angle of 45 degrees.
This classic version connecting the platbands to each other. For classic doors with curved lines in the design, this is the only option. With this method of installing platbands it is very important role plays by cutting them at a given angle. The cut should be as smooth and clear as possible. If the walls are curved, then an inclination or offset in the cut will be required. In general, in the end there should be a perfect joint. Otherwise, gaps and chips will be very noticeable, especially on light-colored doors.
Only flat platbands are joined at right angles.
To install platbands at 90 degrees, only platbands specially made for this purpose are suitable. This means that the shapes of the joints of the platbands must be the same. For rounded or figured platbands The shape of the cut differs from the shape of the side part. Moreover, even flat trim have a slight rounding at the corners. Therefore, the top casing should be thinner than the side ones so that it is slightly recessed. Otherwise, the end of the platbands will be exposed.
If the corners of the platbands are sharp, as for example on ProfilDoors doors, then such platbands are installed at right angles without adaptation. If the corners are rounded, then the craftsman will need to narrow the upper platband. Not everyone will take on this.
The door frames are installed at right angles in modern style with straight lines. The right angle of the platbands seems to complement the right angles of the door structure.
IN Lately Manufacturers began to produce flat platbands intended only for installation at right angles. This means that in a set of 5 trims for one door, one will be thinner than the rest. Installers need to be careful not to cut the thick side casing in half.
The upper casing is also installed at a right horizontal angle. This is how capitals and cornices are installed - decorative trims.
You will need
- - miter box;
- - hacksaw;
- - wooden blank;
- - protractor;
- - pencil;
- - a clamp or screws and a screwdriver.
Instructions
Prepare a corner template that will help you easily make an accurate cut of a piece of wood at an angle of 45 degrees. This device is a profile in the form of an inverted letter “P”; On its sides there are through slots for a hacksaw. They are usually located at angles of 45, 60 and 90 degrees. More complex miter boxes are additionally equipped with arbitrary fixed slots, or have rotating structure– it allows you to set the saw in the optimal position.
Buy ready-made carpentry tool at a hardware store with a wooden, metal or plastic tray. For a novice master this is best option. If desired, you can make a simple miter box from three planed boards or plywood strips (thickness - about 1.5-2 cm).
Drill several holes in the walls of the future miter box, apply wood glue to the ends and assemble the box (tray) of the miter box. Secure the corner template with screws. The walls of the instrument must lie strictly parallel to one another; the bottom and each side form clear perpendiculars.
Mark a 45 degree angle with a pencil and add additional groove lines if necessary. To avoid mistakes in your calculations, use a protractor.
The most important thing is the slots. It is recommended to perform them with the same hacksaw that will subsequently be used to make cuts in the finished miter box. Start sawing without putting too much pressure on the working tool and hold the blade. First saw through one side, then the opposite.
Start processing lumber. Secure the miter box to a workbench or work table with a clamp (clamps for fixing parts) or screws. Then make a mark for the future cut on the slats (boards, plinths) and place the workpiece in the box. Press it firmly against one of the side walls of the template, aligning the marks with the 45-degree angle slot.
Insert the hacksaw into the grooves of the miter box and cut the workpiece. The saw will be limited to fixed cuts and you will get a clean and precise cut.
When cutting skirting boards, make sure that the corners in the room are really straight. If the walls are very uneven, the angle of the cut on the workpieces should be adjusted. Measure the joints with a goniometer interior walls and divide the result in half (the joint of the skirting boards is “miteral”). To make an accurate cut, it is recommended to make grooves with a given angle in a homemade miter box. Another option is a magazine rotary tool, which allows you to change the angle from 0 to 180 degrees in approximately 15-degree increments.
Platbands play a decorative role, giving the doorway a finished look. The planks differ in the material of manufacture, shape, color, as well as the method of fastening. Installation of interior door frames is carried out after finishing the walls, but before laying the floor plinth.
To correctly install platbands on interior doors, you first need to select the appropriate elements. First of all, pay attention to the material of manufacture:
- Products made from natural wood are considered universal. The strips can be painted to match the color of the doors. Fasten wooden elements nails without heads. If the walls are well aligned with the door frame, the platbands are placed on an adhesive composition - “liquid nails”.
- Laminated planks of MDF appearance resemble natural wood. Decorative elements match the color of the door. The platbands are secured with adhesive or nails without heads, without first drilling through holes.
- PVC cashing is more suitable plastic doors. The planks are glued or mounted on the mounting profile.
- There are also aluminum and steel cash registers, but they are usually installed on entrance doors.
Most planks are given a standard flat, rounded or shaped form.
By fastening method Cashing can be invoice or telescopic. The first type of elements is fixed directly to door frame. The second one is equipped with mounting grooves.
Tools for work
To install door frames was successful, the instrument is prepared in advance.
- To perform accurate markings you will need pencil, tape measure, plumb line, square and level.
- It will help to cut the workpiece perfectly straight at an angle of 45 degrees. miter box O.
- It's better to cut the slats miter saw . If it is missing, you can use hacksaw for metal. The fine teeth of the blade will not leave chips on the product.
- Used for driving nails or tapping cash elements. hammer.
How to cut off the platband?
After marking the angle of the cut and the length of the workpiece, the trim is cut with a miter saw. A special feature of the power tool is adjustable table, which is installed at the desired angle. In order to saw off the door frames correctly and without chipping, the side edges of the workpiece are pressed tightly against the stops on the frame. If a gap occurs, the cut will be uneven.
If you don’t have a power saw, a miter box will help you cut the edge of the casing at 45 degrees. It is better to buy a quality tool. The cheap one made of plastic has deformed thrust elements that distort the size of the angle. A hacksaw for cutting is used with fine teeth that do not leave chips.
How to attach platbands to interior doors?
Simple fastening of platbands flat shape performed at an angle of 90 degrees. The vertical planks fit tightly at the top with the horizontal one. When installing wooden or MDF elements complex shape The ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. There are 4 methods of fixing the planks.
Using finishing nails
Wooden or MDF door casing is easier to nail with nails with flat heads. The fastening is reliable, and if necessary, the planks can be easily dismantled. You can use nails of a different configuration, and so that the heads are not visible, they are removed with side cutters. The length of finishing nails for platbands is about 40 mm. The size can be calculated individually, taking into account the thickness of the cash. Having passed through the bar, the nail must enter at least 20 mm into the body of the door frame.
Attachment points are marked on the workpieces, maintaining the same distance. Typically, a pitch of 500 mm is maintained. Using the markings, drill through holes with a diameter corresponding to the thickness of the nail. After joining to the door frame, the platbands are carefully nailed. For aesthetics, hats are painted over with a wax pencil.
Liquid nails
To attach cash to interior doors without nails, use an adhesive composition - liquid nails. The advantage of this method is that there is no visible fixation site. The downside is the weak fastening, as well as inconvenience during dismantling. In addition, liquid nails are only applicable if the adjacent walls are perfectly level.
The door frames are installed after sawing and fitting of the blanks. The plank is lubricated on the back side with adhesive and pressed tightly against the wall. To glue platbands for interior doors, it is enough to hold each strip pressed for no more than a minute.
Fastening with self-tapping screws
The method is similar to fastening with finishing nails, only instead of them, wood screws 25 mm long and 6 mm thick are used. Places for holes are marked on the workpiece in increments of 500 mm. A drill of the same diameter or with a margin of 1 mm is used.
It is advisable to recess the hats into the body of the plank. WITH front side The hole in the workpiece is expanded with a drill of a larger diameter to a depth of 1–1.5 mm. Now all that remains is to attach the trim to the interior doors with self-tapping screws. You need to tighten the hardware so that the head fits into the recess. The place of fixation is painted over with a wax pencil.
Attachment by beaks
The method does not require the use of screws, nails or adhesive. The cash box is equipped with a beak-shaped lock. The connecting pin is inserted into the recess on the box and pressed until it clicks.
The advantage of this method is ease of installation and invisibility of the mounting location. A negative point is the delamination of MDF trims during dismantling. Over time, spontaneous destruction of joints may occur, which requires additional processing connections with glue.
How to install platbands on interior doors?
When installing interior doors with your own hands, glue, nails or self-tapping screws are used to fasten trim made of wood or MDF. However, the evenness of the walls and the shape of the planks are taken into account. There should be no gaps at the joints. If the walls adjacent to the end of the door frame are uneven, then it is better to refuse gluing.
Installation of cashing begins from the side where the interior door opens. This is due to the presence of hinges that prevent the strip from being fixed flush with the box element. You will need to make the same indentation, and on all three sides for symmetry. Where there are no loops, there is no need for mandatory indentation.
If the door is in a corner, installation is carried out using the letter G. If desired, you can saw the element vertically and use a narrow strip.
The platband on one side is installed when the slopes on the other are decorated with tiles or other wall materials.
Docking at an angle of 45
When it is necessary to install trim on the door at an angle of 45 degrees, use a miter box for marking. This joining of elements is usually used for shaped and rounded planks. If there is no miter box, the markings can be made with a protractor.
The installation procedure consists of the following steps:
Docking at an angle of 90
The platbands are fastened at 90 degrees with horizontal or vertical seams. The choice depends on the preference of the owner. When installing a door cashing with your own hands at a right angle, only flat-shaped blanks are used. The cut areas are treated with varnish or acrylic-based paint.
To install platbands on interior doors with imitation lintels, the upper element is extended. The joining is obtained at an angle of 90 degrees with horizontal seams. Upper bar protrudes beyond the vertical.
Telescopic trims
Fastened to interior doors without nails telescopic trims. Decorative elements are equipped with a special lock consisting of a slot and groove. Fixation occurs at the end of the box. The main requirement correct installation platbands is the presence of a protrusion. It forms when the door frame is already thick interior partition. The adjacent walls must be level, otherwise you will get an unsightly gap.
Installation instructions for plastic trims
Glue is used very rarely, the connection is unreliable. Basically, plastic trims are installed on interior doors using a profile. This installation method consists of the following steps:
If you place plastic cash on a wall lined with clapboard, then along the perimeter doorway fix wooden slats, and the profile is already attached to it.
Installation is possible using special nipples and screws.
Elimination of defects
An unpleasant moment is the visibility of the nail head or screw. They are slightly recessed into the body of the cash, and sealed on top with sealant. desired color. You can use a wax corrector.
On uneven walls due to curvature wooden planks the joints are coming apart. During installation, the joining elements are additionally connected with a finishing nail.
Wide strips from 100 to 120 mm help to hide large defects around the door frame.
How to join the plinth with the platband?
There is no need to cut the door trim; it should reach the floor. Otherwise it won't look very nice.
The plinth itself is adjusted, the method depends on the material.
- Plastic ones have decorative plugs, with the help of which you can neatly and beautifully join the end of the plinth and the door casing.
- A cut is made on the wooden one at 45 degrees to align the adjacent side of the plinth with the thickness of the door casing.
Dismantling
Removal of platbands is usually required when cash is replaced. There is no need to worry about their safety, but the work is done carefully. Taking an ax with a sharp blade and a hammer in their hands, they begin to dismantle:
The procedure must be carried out carefully so that no dents are left on the door frame. Instead of an ax, homemade sharpened strips of durable metal or other similar devices.
Door trims are made from natural wood, laminated MDF boards or plastic. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages; a specific type of platbands should be selected taking into account the specific installation location, general interior premises and your own preferences. They differ slightly in price, but the difference is not so significant that it has a decisive influence during the choice.
There are several ways to attach the platband depending on the angle of the connection.
Joining with cutting ends at an angle of 45°
The most common and most universal method. Allows you to completely hide the places where the cuts are made and looks beautiful.
Joining with cutting ends at an angle of 90°
A very simple method, it has two options: the open ends of the cut are located vertically or the visible ends of the cut are located horizontally.
Joining with cutting of ends at 90°, elongated horizontal casing with imitation lintel
It is rarely used and only for creating exclusive interiors.
Fixation of platbands can be carried out with special thin nails with or without a reduced head diameter. Professionals work air gun, but it’s not worth buying it for one bath. The length of the nails is within two centimeters.
The second method of attaching platbands is using liquid glue. From the point of view of builders, both methods are equivalent; each can be used with the same quality of installation of platbands. Slight advantage using glue – there are completely no visible fixation points. But the heads of the nails can also be recessed a little and painted over with a construction marker of the appropriate color.
Cutting platbands
It is better to cut moldings using a special trimming machine electric saw. The saw table is set at different angles, the cut is perfectly smooth, there are no chips or roughness. Such a saw is relatively inexpensive, and will always come in handy during the construction of a bathhouse. If necessary, it can be disconnected from metal table and use as portable tool– very convenient at any construction site.
Electric miter saw – photo
Important. When trimming trims, check the serviceability of the tool.
The saw must be sharp and even, preventing even the slightest wobble in the bearings of the electric saw. Press the side edges of the molding tightly against the thrust surfaces of fixtures or tools; the presence of even the slightest gaps will create big problems during installation.
Don't want to buy it? Then you should buy a factory-made miter box or make it yourself. The miter box allows you to trim moldings at an angle of 90°, 45° or 30°.
You should not buy a Chinese low-quality miter box. They make it from recycled polyethylene, and during cooling it shrinks greatly, and the position of the thrust planes changes. We advise you to check the device before starting work. Saw off several pieces in different positions, join them together with cuts and check the corners.
Let's take a closer look at the methods of installing both plastic and wooden or MDF trims.
Installation of wooden or MDF trims with the ends cut at an angle of 45°
Step 1. Preparing the surface of the doorway and trim
Using a construction knife, carefully cut off the protruding polyurethane foam; do not damage the door frame during cutting. Particular care must be taken when working around visible corners boxes covered with self-adhesive polyethylene film.
Check the position of the plane of the wall and the box. Take a straight strip and check the position of the wall and frame around the entire perimeter of the doorway. If there are problems, you will have to solve them during the installation of the platbands. We will describe how this is done below. The ends of the lower part of the platbands need to be cut off - they could be damaged during transportation or long-term storage.
For one door you will need four long and two short trims. You need to saw off with a length margin of 3÷4 centimeters.
Step 2. Mark the position of the trims
The door frame has rounded corners, a right angle only on the side of the extension. We recommend installing the platbands in such a way that the rounding does not close. From the side of the extension, accordingly, the corners of the platband must exactly coincide with the corners of the extension.
The platband should not interfere with opening and closing the door
Important point! Platband should not interfere with work door hinges and "answer" door lock. Place the trims against the door frame and use a thin pencil to make marks at the top of the frame. They will be located 2÷3 millimeters above the joining angle of the door frame. These marks indicate the height of the long vertical trim and the width of the short horizontal trim along bottom corners docking.
On the extension side, we recommend placing marks on the trim 1÷2 millimeters below the corner, this will allow them to completely cover uneven or damaged surfaces of the extensions. If the extensions are in good condition, then you can install the platbands flush to them.
We do the markings slowly
Step 3. Attach vertical trim to the marks and make marks on them at a certain height
Step 4. Cut the vertical trims at an angle of 45°
Don't give a big serve cutting tool, the cut should be as smooth and clean as possible. When cutting, take into account the width of the cut; in some saws it can be up to three millimeters. Step back from the mark you made by the width of the cut.
Step 5. Start nailing the prepared trims
First two vertical ones, and then a horizontal one.
The heads of the studs can be recessed a little and sealed with acrylic sealant to match the color. The same sealant can be used to seal cracks along the entire perimeter of the installed platbands and door frames and in the upper corner areas where the cuts join.
Important. The use of sealant to seal cracks indicates a low qualification of the performer. If you have little experience, then it is better to practice a little with cuts than to eliminate the defect later. Nail the first trims on the inconspicuous side of the doors, get a little practice.
Problems may also arise due to the fault of the bathhouse builders; let’s look at some of them and how to eliminate them. Most often, the plane of the wall does not lie on the same line with the plane of the door frame. The door frame is either too recessed or, on the contrary, protrudes too much, or is generally made at a slope. In this regard, the platbands cannot fit tightly to the doorway; large gaps regardless of the precision with which the cuts are made.
There are several ways to solve such rather unpleasant problems.
Aligning the plane of the platband with the wall
The first way. The simplest, but, unfortunately, not always applicable. With its help, you can correct the non-parallelism of the planes of the wall and frame within 2÷3 millimeters. How it's done?
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| Step 1. | Place the trim in the intended place, press it tightly against the box. It will move a little away from the plane of the wall, estimate the width of the gap between it and the wall. If it is within 2÷3 mm, then the gap at the joint is removed without the need for construction work. |
| Step 2. | Place a pad the same thickness as the size of the gap on the work table of the saw or miter box. The lining should be narrow, not the entire width of the casing, just a few millimeters; it should only slightly raise one side of it during filing. |
| Step 3. | Press the platband tightly to the work table in this position, the lower plane of the platband on the stop side should rise slightly above the table. Carefully cut the end in position. The cut end should have a 45° angle to the axis and be slightly inclined towards the surface. Now, in the “broken” position, the joint of the two platbands at the joints will be tight, and there will be no need to seal the cracks with acrylic sealant. |
The second way. Wooden trims due to violations of manufacturing technology, they may have uneven surfaces or warping. Of course, ideally their quality should be checked at the time of purchase. If the defect is discovered already during the installation of the platbands, then the warping is easily eliminated. Place the vertical and horizontal trims so that the cuts lie evenly. Drive a nail into the end, it will fix them in correct position and not allow it to move.
- The door frame is too recessed into the wall. You'll have to chisel the wall - the work is dusty, noisy and dirty. Place the trim against the box and draw a line on the wall. Bulgarian with diamond blade or use a saw (depending on the wall material) to cut a line along the wall. And then you need to choose a niche for the platband. This can be done with a grinder, chisel, etc. Constantly check the depth of the groove. If in some places the niche is too deep, fill the recess with plaster or cement mortar and immediately place the platband in the desired depth position for a few seconds, this will help you make a niche more accurately. So you need to go around the entire door around the perimeter.
- If you have a casing from natural wood and has decent thickness, then you can slightly remove its reverse side with a plane. Work very carefully, do not rush, it will be impossible to correct the mistake.
Video - How to attach platband without nails
Video - Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors
Installation of platbands with cutting ends at an angle of 90°
Cutting the ends of the casing at an angle is rare; such a door does not look very nice. Only completely inexperienced masters can do this. It is better to make open ends of the cuts on top of the vertical trims; in this place the cut end is hardly noticeable.
Slices in mandatory sanded with fine sand sandpaper. Sanding should be done carefully so as not to damage the laminate on the front surface of the casing. The cut areas should be painted over with carpenter's markers to match the main color. All other operations, except for the angle of the ends, do not differ from those described above.
When attaching the platbands with liquid glue, you should keep them in the desired position for several minutes. Carefully monitor the accuracy of the connection at the joints. Unevenness on the wall or problems with the quality of the platbands can widen the gap. To prevent this from happening, first fix the corner of the joint with a nail or place pads under it, taking into account the size of the gap between the platband and the wall. Only after this can you press the platband to the entire surface and wait for the liquid glue to cool.
Nail the first nail in the middle of the casing; this will allow you to rotate it slightly for a tight connection at the corners of the cut. Only after the corners on all sides of the door are positioned correctly can you drive in nails to secure them. The distance between the nails is approximately 15÷20 centimeters. You need to check the distance by lightly tapping the platband. You will immediately find out in which places the platband does not fit tightly; drive additional nails into them.
If during driving the nail does not reach the end and becomes bent, do not pull it out. Gently pinch the remaining part with pliers and rotate it left/right until it breaks off. Why shouldn't you pull it out? The nail could not be hammered in for a “valid” reason beyond your control, which means that the second one will not fully fit into this place. It is much better to hammer the new one right next to it, there will be fewer holes in the trim.
You can increase the tightness of the platbands across the entire width using polyurethane foam. Apply it with reverse side platbands in a thin strip along the entire length from the side of the wall, give three to four minutes for partial drying. Otherwise, the foam will not stick to the surface. Next, arrive the platbands in the recommended way. After complete drying polyurethane foam Carefully cut off the visible part; the gap can be sealed with sealant. Although, if you don’t overdo it with foam, it shouldn’t protrude. During pressing, the ability of the foam to increase volume is significantly reduced.
In conclusion we will give practical advice for working with an air pistol. It is designed in such a way that there are holes on the side for air exhaust. The piston is constantly lubricated with machine oil; during the exhaust of air, its smallest particles come out. When the studs need to be driven into the end of the trim, an oily stain from the escaping air always forms on the white wall. Be sure to place clean paper between the gun and the wall.
If you have platbands white– do not lubricate nails with oil, the oil will leave a stain at the entry point of the nail.
Video - Installation of MDF or wooden trims
Video - Errors when installing trims and interior door trims
Installation of plastic platbands
In some cases, plastic platbands are difficult to distinguish from natural ones; in terms of their performance indicators, they satisfy most owners. You can choose any color scheme, thickness and width. The kit includes connecting elements for corner cutting, mounting and front profiles.
How to install them?
Step 1. Mark the mounting profile
The mounting profile is plastic product with special protrusions-latches for the front profile. There is no need to mark the mounting profile very precisely; it subsequently closes and becomes invisible. The cuts in the corners of the platbands can be a few millimeters apart; the gap does not play a critical role. The distance is taken as described in the above section on MDF installation and wooden platbands.
Step 2. Cut the mounting profile blanks
You will need four long vertical ones and two short horizontal ones. You need to cut at an angle of 45°. You can use an electric miter saw, a device for cutting at an angle (miter box), or an ordinary grinder with a thin metal disc. The mounting profile can be 5÷10 millimeters shorter than the front one. This makes it easier to take measurements.
Step 3. Fix the mounting profile to the wall
Self-tapping screws are used for fastening.
Very important. The mounting part of the platband cannot always fit onto the box, especially a thin Chinese one, and installing it on the wall requires perfect quality the last one. The best option– the walls are made of plasterboard, sheet plywood or OSB boards. Plaster is the worst option. If the quality of the plastering “wants better,” then you will have to use a spatula to trim the strip near the door frame. Otherwise, the profile will bend in a wave-like manner during attraction, and this is unacceptable.
The mounting profile is fixed with self-tapping screws in special seats. If you need to screw in screws more often, no problem. Drill a small entry hole in the plastic and screw in the screws. This is what some masters advise. We advise you not to drill any special holes; the self-tapping screw screws in just fine. You need to start by fastening the center of the profile; screws are screwed in at the edges only after checking the position and correcting errors.
Step 4. Take the dimensions of the front profile taking into account the thickness of the connecting elements of the corner cuts
In most cases, their thickness does not exceed two to three millimeters. But there is much more, it all depends on the manufacturer of the platbands. Dimensions are taken from the floor to the corner of the box.
Step 5. Saw off two vertical trims at an angle, secure them in the mounting profile
One of the advantages plastic platbands– the front profile can be moved in the mounting room and in this way its position can be precisely adjusted. It is advisable to install only vertical trims at first.
Step 6. Insert connecting profiles into the sawn-off ends of the front vertical trims
File one end of the horizontal face profile and insert it into the mounting profile. In this position, measure the place for sawing off the second end. Immediately keep in mind the thickness of the connecting profile.
Step 7. Saw off the face profile at a 45° angle and insert it into place
Electrical, telephone or Internet cables can be installed in the hidden cavities of plastic trims. Thanks to the corner fittings, the joints are always very neat; there is no need to use sealant to eliminate cracks.
It is better not to install plastic trim on walls covered with clapboard. If you really want it, then you need to prepare for it ahead of time. Before installing the door frame, a wooden strip approximately 0.5÷1.0 cm thick should be nailed around the perimeter of the doorway. It must be nailed carefully into the convex places of the lining profile. Make sure that the slats do not bend in a wave-like manner. When installing the door frame, you need to align it with the level of the slats. On the opposite side of the door frame, the alignment is done by adding.
We do not recommend purchasing factory-made boxes for a bathhouse; they are not very durable and can completely lose their properties during prolonged contact with water. load-bearing capacity. In addition, the factory boxes are very narrow, in most cases it is necessary to install additional strips. It is much more profitable to purchase only in the store door leaves, making them yourself is difficult. And you can make the boxes yourself, and you will immediately select the desired width, making them stronger and more durable.
Video - Do-it-yourself installation of plastic trims
They can significantly decorate the interior of a room; they can be made from either natural wood (the most expensive option) or plastic or MDF. Plastic decorative trims have a full set of additional elements that simplify the installation process. With wooden ones you will have to tinker.
Decorative trims - photo
Their installation begins with cutting down the upper corners. When taking dimensions, you need to keep in mind not only the position of the platband in relation to the door frame, but also the combination of patterns. Some trims have special technological places to facilitate the combination of patterns, and some need to be selected very carefully. Especially many problems can arise during the joining of the top and side trims. If you have little experience performing such complex work, - better not take it. Don't waste your time and money in vain.
Video - Installation of decorative trims