The fresh and incredibly cute heads of these flowers announce that spring is in full swing. They step on the heels of primroses, rushing to please bright colors and a cheerful appearance. Design beautiful flower beds Anyone can make DIY tulips; the process is not complicated or expensive. These bulbous plants, which spread from Holland in the 17th century, need suitable place and caring hands. Knowledge of agricultural needs, friendly partners and design solutions will help you.
Flower beds with tulips
Choosing a location for a flower bed with tulips
Since flowers develop from bulbs planted in the fall, the area for planting must be identified and prepared in the previous season. Before hibernation, the bulbs grow roots, and in spring period throw away the stem with the bud. At the end of flowering, the plant gains strength for the future life cycle. Most often, it is dug up for the summer and stored until a new planting.
Design of the tree trunk circle
The area for a tulip flowerbed at the dacha must meet the following requirements:
- be as even as possible, without stagnation of excess moisture in the recesses, or be on an elevation (overmoistening is unacceptable for the bulbs - there is a danger of rotting or freezing);
- be well lit and warmed up so that the stems grow even and strong, and the flower petals do not lose color (the north side of buildings is not suitable);
- have protection from strong gusts of north wind that can damage flowers and break stems (if drafts cannot be prevented, it is better to plant low-growing species).
Planting in a flowerpot
The soil in a tulip flowerbed should be fertile, non-acidic, non-clayey, with good aeration and drainage. A month or two before planting, the soil is dug up to a depth of about 40 cm, cleared of weeds, disinfected from pathogens and filled with complex mineral fertilizers.
Small flowerbeds of tulips in the garden can be laid out in the area of tree trunks, near bushes, gazebos or along paths. Variegated flowering groups look great and develop on a green lawn or lawn.
Discount near the house
Beautiful urban flower beds with tulips, where plants of the same variety or in various combinations are planted, have not lost their relevance. A flowering corner under the windows of a high-rise building will delight nature lovers. His very best location– closer to the south side of the building. Precipitation flowing from the roof should not significantly flood the area.
In order for the flowering of spring beauties to be long and spectacular, you need to choose varieties that are suitable not only in appearance (height, color and shape of the petals), but also take into account the timing of the appearance of buds. The determining point will be the decision on the frequency of digging up the bulbs, the use of sealing or replacement ornamental crops.
Varietal diversity of the king of flower beds
There are about 300 varieties widely used in garden landscaping; they differ in the number of flowers on one plant, color, size and shape. Flowers garden varieties unusually diverse in the outline of the buds: bell-shaped, round, peony-shaped, narrowed, lily-shaped, star-shaped.
Variety of shapes and shades
Principles of classification and main groups
Based on these and other important decorative characteristics, all varieties can be divided into four groups:
- early flowering (late April);
- mid-blooming (early May);
- late flowering (second half of May);
- wild, species.
Representatives of the first group, in turn, are divided into two types:
- Simple ones – Purple Prince, Christmas Marvel. They are characterized by low peduncles, bell-shaped flowers in warm shades (red, yellow). Used for borders.
- Terry – Abba. Low, very beautiful peduncles with double bright colors. Look great in flower beds in the foreground.
The second group includes:
- All hybrids of the Triumph variety have tall peduncles, large bell-shaped flowers of various colors (Judith Leyster, Happy Generation). They are widely used to decorate parks, gardens, and city flower beds with tulips.
- Darwin hybrids with very tall peduncles (up to 80 cm) and a flower diameter of about 12 cm, predominantly red in color (Golden Apeldoorn, Pink Impression).
Double Early Tulips
The third group includes:
- Simple (Menton, Queen Of Night) and double (Uncle Tom, Blue Diamond) differ from the varieties of the first group in having a later flowering period. Widely used in all types of plantings.
- Liliaceae - the flowers have a lily-shaped shape, original for tulips, with gracefully curved sharp petals (West Point, Marilyn).
- Fringed - the petals have a jagged, wavy edge, like a fringe. The size and color of the petals varies depending on the variety (Carrousel, Lambada).
- Green-flowered – beautiful varieties, retaining the green color of the back throughout the entire flowering, look very unusual (Green Wave). Flower size is up to 7 cm.
- Parrots - got their name due to their feather-like, deeply cut petals (Texas Flame, Texas Gold).
The fourth group includes wild species and varieties with a star-shaped flower - Turkestan Tulip, Calypso, Tarafa and others. They are distinguished by their small height and large flowers. unusual shape And early dates flowering.
The best varieties for different types of flower beds
For landscaping large plots you should choose bright ones large-flowered varieties: Purple Prince, Christmas Marvel, Abba, Pink Impression, Menton, Aladdin, Ballerina, Judith Leyster. They will not get lost in the surroundings and will transform an ordinary landscape into a luxurious, blooming corner of nature.
King of the Night
Varieties medium height with a classic bud of uniform color, such as Purple Prince, Judith Leyster, Golden Apeldoorn, Pink Impression, Carrousel, Lambada, are planted in hermetic figures in the entrance areas. Variegated, elegant early and late terry, as well as fringed and parrot varieties, look spectacular in group plantings in the foreground or background of tulip beds in the garden.
Low growing varieties, for example, Uncle Tom, Tarafa, should be chosen for group plantings near paths; among green lawns. All varieties of tulips are suitable for mixborders; the main thing is to create the right composition.
Flower garden at the dacha in landscape style
With a non-standard approach to landscaping (creating rocky gardens), wild tulips and their hybrids are widely used. They look great in rockeries and on alpine roller coaster and look very original.
Planting tulips in a flower bed
Before planting tulips in a flowerbed with your own hands, you should imagine it future view in color and determine required quantity bulbs The average amount of planting material is 10 units on an area of 0.25x0.25 m (about 100 pieces per 1 m2 for a checkerboard pattern).
Round flower garden
How to plant tulips in a flower bed
Plants should not interfere with each other’s development; they are placed in increments of about 10 cm in a row (depth - about three bulb diameters), with approximately 25 cm between rows. different heights varieties, low tulips should be placed in the flowerbed on the south side so that they do not suffer from the shadow of their taller counterparts.
The modern method of planting is in special trays (baskets), which simplifies care and protects the bulbs from damage when digging up and from being eaten by rodents. Faded plants are easily moved from the site to another place for ripening. Other containers (bottles, caps and plastic containers) are also suitable for bulbs. plastic boxes with gratings).
Using an old boat for a flower garden
Schemes and combination techniques
To successfully plant a flowerbed of tulips, you should familiarize yourself with the following recommendations and choose the appropriate ones:
- spectacular and often used in group plantings of the same varieties or colors;
- at least five bulbs are planted so that the flowers do not get lost among the others, the optimal group is 10-15 pieces;
- different varieties lined up by height (in the center or in the background - the tallest, then - the middle ones, in front or along the edge - the shortest);
- companies combine early and late flowering plants, alternating them.
Colorful combination
There is a multi-layer planting method, when bulbs that bloom later are placed deeper in the soil, then those with a medium flowering period, and then the early ones.
All possible design solutions include the following schemes for planting tulips in flower beds, taking into account the size and shape of the site, and personal tastes:
- random placement creates the effect of a natural lawn;
- Multi-colored varieties are planted inside, and the edges are framed with plain ones;
- create geometric patterns or an ornament of tulips, placing them in a certain order on a flowerbed;
- combine plants with related bud colors or with contrasting (warm and cold) tones.
Spectacular combination of white and crimson
Combination with other plants
The problem of what to plant in a flowerbed along with tulips is solved by selecting suitable non-aggressive flowering and decorative deciduous crops that fit into the overall composition. Neighbors can be various plants, which have the same requirements for soil structure and moisture, and for the degree of lighting.
Mixed flower garden scheme
The rhizome system of flower garden partners should not be too developed so as not to inhibit the vegetative processes in the bulbs. Annual replanting is not always practiced and not for all varieties, so you can create permanent combined flower beds.
A different approach is needed to designing a seasonal (spring) and permanent flower bed. After the flowering period, tulips can be dug up and the area can be used for summer gardens, seedlings, or garden plants. Frequent partners in the plots are spring bulbs; it is very convenient that they require the same care.
Tulips in a flowerbed of continuous flowering
Planting beautifully flowering annual crops (variegated petunias, pansies, asters, daisies, zinnias, daffodils), the growing season of which ends by mid-autumn. Then the area is again freed up for wintering the bulbs.
In a permanent flower garden with perennial plants, areas are left for tulips. At the end of the growing season, their fading, unsightly leaves are masked by other crops that have grown by this time. Astilbe, gypsophila, peonies, phlox, hosta, and ferns are suitable as neighbors.
Next to the rhododendron
Mixed compositions with ornamental shrubs in the background (rhododendron, Louiseania, weigela), as well as with conifers, are successful.
In a perennial flower bed with tulips, it is good to combine decorative crops of ground cover varieties - arabis, aubrieta, phlox, forget-me-not, sedum. They have shallow, loose roots and do not interfere with the development of the bulbs.
Circular planting pattern
Design solutions for a combined flower garden
On small area up to 5 m2, it is reasonable to plant no more than five varieties of ornamental crops, collecting them into a single composition. A border of low-growing plants looks good. You should take into account the seasonal change in the pattern of the flower garden and, if possible, adjust it.
The placement of tulips with other flowers in the flowerbed should be thoughtful so that they appearance harmoniously combined or set off the beauty of its neighbor. It is necessary to take into account the parameters of the partners so that they do not cover each other and do not cast a lot of shadow.
In flower beds with several tiers, you should not plant tulips from the very edge; it is better to allocate areas for them a little further away, so that you can later cover them with other plants.
Bright bouquets on the lawn
To design a flower bed from early flowering plants They often use tulips and elegant daffodils with their own hands. Plants create a spectacular color contrast, highlighting each other's beauty.
A flower bed with tulips and frost-resistant crocuses looks romantic. Crocuses are placed with delicate lace along the edge of the area.
A composition of tulips and slender hyacinths that emit a charming aroma looks interesting and tender in the flowerbed. They can be planted mixed, choosing matching tones.
Delicate combination with hyacinths
A classic and win-win option is the proximity of tulips and bright blue muscari in the same flowerbed. They get along well together, muscari are unpretentious and create an advantageous background.
A festive atmosphere can be felt in the flower bed with tulips and rainbow irises, blooming from April-May for two months. You should select varieties that are compatible in growth.
Design approach
Main principle when placed on a lawn or under tree canopies - natural natural look. Groups of tulips are planted in several separate groups, trying to choose the most illuminated places.
Island design of the site
The unique charm of fresh, bright buds makes us create fabulous spring decorations year after year. Recipe for success beautiful design DIY landscape - high quality planting material, a successful and prepared place, favorable neighborhood and competent care.
The qualities are excellent, and their unpretentiousness makes it possible to grow these flowers almost anywhere. The stems grow up to ninety centimeters, the few foliage is elongated. The inflorescences are large, single, of different shades. Today we will figure out how to grow tulips in the spring: planting tulip bulbs in the country, secrets and tips.
The necessary conditions
It is recommended to grow tulips on sunny areas, should be light and have good drainage. Tulip bulbs are dug up annually, but with deeper planting and annual support with nutritional compounds, the plant is quite capable of remaining in one place for three to four years.
Tulip bulbs, planting, how and when to plant in spring
Tulips are planted in the fall. For this purpose, trenches are constructed, the width of which is about thirty centimeters and the depth - up to twenty. The bottom is covered with superphosphate. Never use - it will cause the bulbs to rot.
Planting material of larger sizes is laid out in trenches with the bottoms down and sprinkled with soil composition. Smaller bulbs are placed between them.
If there is a risk of planting freezing, the procedure is performed. Before planting the bulbs in the soil, they are treated with a manganese solution (two hours) or foundation (no more than twenty-five minutes).
Caring for tulips in the country
With the onset of the period of bud formation, plants are in dire need. It should be taken into account that moisture should not be allowed to stagnate in order to prevent rotting of the roots. The recommended interval between waterings is from a week to ten days.
When growing tulips, loosening, feeding and removal of diseased flowers are performed. All actions should be performed carefully so as not to damage the roots of the onion, through which the main part of the nutrients comes.
Feeding tulips
During the growing season, plants must be fed three times with compounds containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
- The first procedure is carried out after the soil has thawed. The proportions of the components are 2 to 2 to 1.
- The second procedure is carried out at the moment of bud formation, but the ratio changes (1 to 2 to 2).
- The third feeding is carried out at the time of active flowering.
At the end of flowering, the plants can be fed with ash.
In order to obtain tulips with inflorescences in the second year big size and to prevent the bulb from breaking into small bulbs, it is not recommended to allow boxes to appear. For this purpose, when the flower begins to wilt, it is immediately removed, simply by picking it off by hand. In this case, at least a couple of leaves remain on the stem section, which will help feed the bulb.
When detected, on which veins are located white, remove them along with the bulbs. The veins are a sign of a virus that has entered the flower garden. Failure to take action in a timely manner will result in the loss of the entire flower garden.
Prevention measures against pests
For preventive purposes, all tulip planting material is placed in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate and kept in it for one and a half to two hours. These kinds of measures create reliable protection from various diseases.
Flower beds should be treated with insecticides against harmful insects.
Care after flowering
and put into storage.
Proper storage of tulip bulbs
Quality depends on this. After five days, dried planting material is treated with a fungicide solution to prevent fungal diseases from developing. Half an hour after the procedure, the bulbs are dried again, placed in gauze bags and stored in a dry place.
The storage location should be ventilated, the air temperature should be from seventeen to twenty degrees Celsius.
Flowers look great in bouquets. It should be cut at the initial stage of bud opening and placed in water. The plant has no special care requirements, but can decorate any yard.
2016-01-15They cannot grow alone, they are simply created to create colorful living masterpieces. For registration garden plot or a city square, you can try to copy someone’s interesting idea, but it’s more fun to create your own unique element landscape design. To do this, it is enough to simply take into account a few simple rules and important tips.
To get a beautiful flowering one, it is important to use only a healthy bulb, providing it comfortable conditions. It is recommended to plant the bulb in autumn in loose soil. During spring bloom the onion gives up all its reserves nutrients to form a flower and dies. At the same time, the process of forming a new bulb begins.
Experienced gardeners advise:
- cut off plants that have begun to wilt to allow the new bulb to quickly accumulate the necessary substances;
- do not touch the leaves of the plant until they completely turn yellow, so as not to interfere with the process of accumulation of nutrients;
- When leaves appear in the spring, the plant needs to be fertilized with nitrogen-based mineral fertilizers, and during the ripening period of the bulb, it needs to be fertilized with potassium fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are used only during planting.
Types of planting tulips
It is not enough to plan the color palette of the future flower bed; you need to take into account 3 more important rules landscape design.
In groups
Planting tulips in pairs or in splendid isolation leads to the fact that they are simply lost against the general background of flower beds or other decorative ornaments garden
Thin, graceful flowers acquire the necessary strength and confidence only in group planting. This is why buying 2-3 bulbs of a new variety is considered a waste of money.
When planting tulips in groups, use one of the popular options:
- a flowerbed can look like a bright spot of color, while all the tulips of the same shade on it can be different types(simple, terry, fringed);
- when using flowers of the same type, an unusual composition based on color contrasts can be created;
- plants of the same species look interesting when created between the edges of a flower bed smooth transition from light shade to bright, saturated.
By height
Planting taking into account the height of peduncles involves placing several different varieties tulips, so that not a single flower is obscured by others.
In a similar way, embankments and flower beds with steps are decorated.
The tallest plants should be in the background. Or they are placed in the center of a round flower bed. Tulips with smaller flower stalks are planted in front of them. The first row at the very edge of the flowerbed is decorated with dwarf plants.
By flowering time
It's a shame when a flower garden is transformed only by a short time. To always delight it with a riot of colors, it is enough to decorate it with groups of flowers with for different periods flowering.
The following option is possible:
Landing Features
When choosing a place to place flowers, you need to consider 2 important points:
- lighting. Tulips do not do well in the shade and on slopes.
- priming. Plants need light fertile soil.
When faced with very dense, clayey or too wet soil, small planting containers are the solution.
They are simply filled the right soil and plant the bulbs. Containers can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently, for example, by taking plastic cover from the cake and melting several holes in it.
Containers help solve the problem of the unaesthetic appearance of plants with yellowed leaves. Thanks to them, flowers can be removed from the flowerbed and sent for growing.
A good strong flower can only appear from a strong large bulb.
If flowers for a long time remained in one place, the bulbs could grow greatly, which is also reflected in a decrease in flowering. In this case, it is necessary to separate them and seat them.
2 weeks before planting, you need to thoroughly dig up the area intended for the flower bed and fertilize the soil with mineral fertilizer. On the appointed day, a small hole is made with a garden shovel, into which organic fertilizer and a bulb are placed. Then the hole is covered with earth; there is no need to compact it.
Combinations with other plants
The right proximity not only emphasizes the charm of flowers, but can also help create comfortable conditions for the ripening of bulbs.
Among the most popular options for combining different types of colors are the following:
- Drought Tolerant Plants. The more often you have to water summer plants, the higher the likelihood of the tulip rotting. The bulb does not ripen well and may not be able to produce a strong flower in the spring. In turn, plants that prefer dry soils draw excess moisture from the ground, protecting the tulips. Representatives of this group are Kachim metelny and Burachok.
- Hide behind the summer riots. Bright and cheerful daisies, wallflowers or forget-me-nots carefully shade the blooming tulip, remaining a rich background and keeping the flowerbed attractive even after the end of the tulip flowering period.
- will add effectiveness.
- Planting under trees. Flowers should create the illusion of wild plants, for this you should choose only strong varieties. They will have to independently withstand weeds, frost and even excess moisture.
Such lawns can only be organized in well-lit areas; a lack of light will lead to degeneration of flowers.
Very popular flowers in our dachas and gardens are tulips. They can be found in any flower bed; in our time, breeders have developed quite a lot of varieties adapted to our climate, although the homeland of tulips is Holland.
There are varieties that will bloom even at home on the windowsill in the middle of winter.
They are not difficult to grow, but usually beginners have many questions: when to replant, how to plant, when to prune, what to do with them after flowering.
Top dressing, as soon as they sprouted in the spring, the peppers form a bud, and after flowering.
Landing, late September-early October, before frost sets in, during this period the bulbs take root well.
The dormant period of tulips, from the day the tulips were planted until the first sprouts appeared.
Reproduction, The resulting small bulbs are dug up after complete flowering, in June-July, and stored until autumn.
Reproduction:
They reproduce by bulbs and seeds.
Tulips are planted in the fall, they are demanding on temperature; to plant in the ground they need a temperature of +9 C. Because during the dormant period, the flower develops in the bulb itself.
Tulips grow in one place for a very long time. The soil should be neutral or acidic, always loose or sandy. The composition of the soil, earth, humus, sand are all one to one. When planting at home, soil for bulbous flowers is suitable.
They bloom early, starting in April, and overwinter without requiring shelter.
To make tulips pleasing to the eye, you need to choose 
high-quality planting material: the bulb must be clean, dense, without traces of rot and mold, heavy for its weight, without damage, without roots.
If you come across a diseased bulb, it will infect all the tulips growing nearby.
The bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth of 15-20cm, the distance between flowers is 10-20cm, and after watering the soil is always loosened.
As recommended by experienced tulip growers, it is better to dig up the bulb in winter and plant it in a place where it did not grow before tulips, this increases the likelihood of successful reproduction.
Care involves abundant watering and fertilization.
These flowers love warmth and sunlight (but not direct rays), and they do not like wind and drafts. But you need to place it away from the heating radiator if you grow it in a room; they like a cool place.
Tulips are moisture-loving, but will not tolerate stagnant water, so good drainage and loosening are necessary.
Yellowed, withered leaves and faded flowers are removed, leaving the peduncle and the lower few leaves, thereby preserving the proper development of the bulb and its nutrition. In this case, the flower does not waste energy on producing seeds.
When the flower has bloomed, you need to cut it off and care for the flower until the leaves turn yellow. Then dig up and dry the bulbs, store them until the next planting in the ground.
Fertilizer
For good growth For flowering and successful reproduction, tulips are fed with mineral fertilizers containing potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus. It is better to use a complex fertilizer specifically for tulips.
If you are doing something wrong, the flower itself will tell you:
Yellow leaves - improper watering, little light, drafts.
Long withered leaves- kept in the dark, lack of light during flowering.
Slow growth - not kept in the dark enough, not enough moisture.
The buds do not open - improper watering and water getting on the buds.
They do not bloom at the same time - the bulbs were selected unequally. In addition, the window tray needs to be rotated regularly to ensure even and straight plant growth.
The flowers are deformed - during the dormant period the temperature was higher than necessary or the place was not too dark.
Rotting flowers are an obvious sign of waterlogging. Excess water is drained from both the bowl and the pan.
They don’t bloom - it’s too warm, exposed to bright light too quickly, insufficient watering.
Pests and diseases
Pests of tulips: mole crickets, earwigs, vine bugs, horse flies, onion rattles, slugs and snails, daffodil flies, stem and bulb nematodes, slender weeds, cutworms, thrips, bulbous aphids, mice.
As a means of control - frequent loosening of the ground, burying the insecticide in the ground or spraying it with visual damage to the above-ground parts. The aphids are easy enough to wipe off.
With the arrival of spring, everything wakes up, our gardens are transformed, and city squares are painted in colorful colors. flower arrangements. Well, what would spring be without tulips? And thanks to the work of breeders, so many different varieties have appeared that you are even surprised how far red tulip fields are in the past.
Varieties of tulips: there are so many!
The color of tulip flowers contains the entire color spectrum: from pure white to almost black. In addition to varieties with simple flowers There are representatives with terry, and fringed, and even terry-fringed. It should be noted that exotic new items cost a lot, and besides, they are not so stable in culture - they are more “delicate”, often fall out and are more often susceptible to various diseases than others. Therefore, if you really want to purchase such unusual varieties, then try to create the most favorable conditions for them: select the best place in the garden, be sure to provide good drainage when planting, and if you have rodents in your area, take appropriate measures.
How to choose tulip bulbs when purchasing
Tulip bulbs are quite large, round in shape, flattened on one side. The larger they are, the more spectacular the flowering will be.
The bottom of the onion should be intact. A specimen with a damaged bottom, even if it looks healthy, can simply rot after planting. Mechanical damage from the sides is not so terrible and will not affect the quality of flowering. But under no circumstances should there be plaques or dark spots, especially in the bottom area, on the bulbs. Pay attention to the density and weight of the planting material. The mass must correspond to the size - the onion should not be light and loose.
How to choose a place to plant tulips
Tulips do not tolerate stagnant water, acidic soils, or fresh organic fertilizers. You need to choose a sunny place for planting them. In such areas, tulips develop well, show themselves in all their glory, and their resistance to various diseases increases. This is especially true for tall Darwin hybrids, in which, with a lack of light, the stems become bent and may even lie down. Tall varieties should not be planted in windy areas.
Owners of low plots should take care to arrange bulk flower beds 15-20 cm high.
Preparing the soil for planting tulip bulbs
It is advisable to prepare the soil for planting tulips a month in advance. The site is dug well, complex granular fertilizers are applied, for example Kemira autumn. If the soil is heavy, then when digging you need to add river sand.
Subtleties of landing
Before planting, tulip bulbs are inspected again. All sick, frail and shrunken ones are rejected. To prevent fungal diseases, they are pre-treated with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol ( systemic fungicide broad spectrum of action).
After wet processing, the tulips are not dried, but are planted immediately. The planting site is watered, this promotes the rapid formation of roots. Keep in mind that if the root system of these plants is damaged, new roots will not form in the damaged areas.
The timing of planting bulbs directly depends on the climatic conditions of a particular region. Planting is carried out in such a way that the bulbs have time to take root well before the onset of stable frosts. The optimal air temperature is +5-7°C; at higher temperatures (+10°C and above), rooting occurs more slowly, and the bulbs are more often exposed to various diseases. Tulips usually take root within 2-3 weeks.
When planting bulbs, you need to add river sand, that is, create a “sand cushion”. This is how I plant all varieties of tulips, and sprinkle the especially valuable ones with sand on top, and only then cover them with soil.
There is no need to plant too densely, especially varieties with large leaves. The distance between the most large bulbs should be 7-9 cm, between rows - 20-25 cm. The distance between smaller bulbs should be equal to their diameter. The more spacious your plantings are, the higher the reproduction rate will be.
Tulips are planted based on the rule: planting depth is equal to three times the height of the bulb. Therefore, it is better to plant large specimens and children separately.
The bulbs are carefully placed on a sandy cushion or loose soil, but do not press or screw in, as this can damage the root cushion, and are covered with soil. After planting, the area is leveled. The height of the soil above the planting material should ultimately be equal to the height of the two bulbs.
Rules for caring for tulips
In spring, caring for tulip plantings begins quite early. Immediately after the snow melts and the first shoots appear in the flower beds, they remove fallen leaves, loosen the ground, and inspect the shoots. Sick tulips and those with twisted stems are immediately dug up with a lump of earth and removed to protect others and prevent mass infection and the spread of fungal infections.
The first time you need to feed the plants is after the snow has melted, with the appearance of the first shoots. Use nitrogen fertilizer - urea (urea). With the appearance of the first buds, a second feeding is carried out phosphorus fertilizer, for example, superphosphate. When mass flowering of tulips occurs, the drug Bud (a universal natural stimulator of growth, flowering and fruit formation) is used. At the end of the growing season, a month before digging, fertilizing with a fertilizer containing potassium (for example, potassium monophosphate) is required. This helps to increase the size of the onion and the accumulation of starch in it.
If there was not enough snow in the winter, and in the spring there was little moisture in the soil, then the tulips must be watered. They are especially sensitive to the water regime in the budding phase.
After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil. The soil crust is an obstacle to oxygen, which is so necessary for the roots. Because of this, the bulbs will not ripen well.
In order for tulips to form large bulbs and actively grow daughter bulbs, their flowers are broken off immediately after flowering. Flowers of young plants are broken off 2-3 days after they open, so that they can be identified as belonging to the variety and determined whether they are infected with the variegation virus. You should not use scissors, since the sap of diseased plants (signs may not yet appear) can get on the cuttings of healthy ones.
When to dig up tulip bulbs
Digging up tulip bulbs
Tulips need to be dug up every two years. If you do not do this and leave it without digging at all, the soil will gradually pull the bulbs deep, and over time they will become crushed.
It is better to dig up new varieties every year, as they are more susceptible to diseases, especially in hot and rainy summers. Sick and damaged ones should be immediately discarded. For prophylaxis, the remaining bulbs, after they have dried, should be treated in a solution of potassium permanganate or with the drug Maxim.
You need to dig up the bulbs in a timely manner: not too early, but also not to delay this process. When dug up early, the bulbs do not have time to ripen and then wither, become flabby and die. If it is late, it will be difficult to pick out the babies from the ground and you can easily lose even an adult bulb.
The signal for digging is when the top two leaves completely turn yellow; the bottom leaf becomes gray-green. Tulips are dug up in dry weather. They are left to dry for 3-6 days in the shade under a canopy along with the stems. When the nests of bulbs dry out, begin dividing. The stem is carefully separated, the bulbs are freed from scales, and the replacement bulb is separated from the remainder of the peduncle.
Storage modes for tulip bulbs
For the first month, tulips are stored at a temperature of +23-25°C. At this time, flower buds are formed on the bulbs. Fringed varieties prefer higher temperatures (+25-27°C). This will have a positive effect on the quality of the fringe - it will become fuller and longer. Too high a temperature (more than +30°C) is harmful, since, on the contrary, the flower bud may not develop or its development will occur with deviations. After a month, the storage temperature is reduced to +18-20°C.
Tulip propagation
All tulips are propagated by baby bulbs. Adult bulbs are planted for flowering, while small ones and children are planted separately for growing and propagation.
A replacement bulb that will bloom on next year instead of the mother's, it is not suitable for this, since it inherits all the physiological characteristics of the mother and accumulates signs of aging. Medium-sized, young, strong, round-shaped bulbs are suitable for propagation of the variety.
Tulips are not propagated by seeds in amateur floriculture. This method is used exclusively for breeding purposes, and plants from seeds flower only after 4-5 years.
❀ By the end of the growing season, the mother bulb dies completely and in its place a whole nest of daughter bulbs is formed. The largest of them becomes a replacement. The remaining baby bulbs (1st and 2nd generations) will need to be grown for 1-2 years.
Diseases and pests of tulips. Treatment
Unfortunately, tulips are susceptible to various diseases and have numerous pests. Let's get acquainted with the most common ones and learn how to deal with them.
Fungal diseases
Botrytis, or gray mold, is most active in rainy and cool weather. On the first storage scales of the bulb, rounded and irregular shape spots. They are clearly defined, yellow-orange or brown, reaching 1 cm in diameter or more. The bulbs wrinkle and turn black.
In years when spring is long or cold, the disease appears on the leaves and even on flowers in the form of brown spots. Affected bulbs produce weak shoots and develop poorly, leaf blades are torn, deformed and turn brown. The plants seem to be charred and covered with a gray coating. The infection is transmitted through infected bulbs and soil.
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Prevent thickening of plantings and remove them on time weeds and loosen the soil.
When planting, avoid low areas. On heavy soils bring in sand.
Plant resistance to disease is increased by fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, as well as those containing microelements.
Before planting, tulip bulbs should be placed in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol for 30 minutes.
From the moment of emergence, every 10-15 days, preventive treatments of plants are carried out with a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride, 0.2% solution of Fundazol, 1% Bordeaux mixture, 0.2% solution of the drug Skor.
Strictly observe the storage regime for bulbs.
When digging, tulips are immediately treated with one of the listed fungicides.
Tyfulosis is one of the varieties of white dry rot. Tulips emerge later, their leaves do not develop, the shoots remain curled into a tube and become red. At weak degree infection, when there are no obvious signs of bottom rot, the plants have a depressed appearance, do not bloom or produce “blind” buds, their root system not viable.
The development of the disease is facilitated by low temperatures above zero, so typhullosis often appears after a warm winter and with high humidity in autumn and spring. The infection persists in the soil, on weeds and is transmitted with the bulb. Infected bulbs during storage serve as a source of disease.
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Weeds are promptly removed from the site, the bulbs are carefully inspected and discarded during storage.
After digging up tulips, the area must be dug deeply with the formation turnover, since great depth The fungal spores do not germinate and die over time (after 70-80 days).
It is advisable to treat bulbs dug from an area where typhullosis was observed in a 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate.
Before planting, the bulbs are treated with the following solution: 10 g of potassium permanganate and 3 g of boric acid are dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Fusarium usually appears towards the end of the growing season, causing significant loss of tulips. Sometimes plants die in early spring, after the snow melts. Large tulips are stunted in growth, their flowers become small and faded, and their flower stalks are short and thin. Sick tulips are easily pulled out of the soil.
The likelihood of infection increases when the soil before digging is wet and hot weather. Wet white rot forms on the bulbs, covering the bottom, the scales lag behind, during storage large light brown spots with a red-brown border are formed, and a pink coating appears between the scales. Subcutaneous tissues soften, darken and acquire a sharp, specific odor. Ultimately, the onion turns into dust.
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Measures to combat fusarium are the same as when tulips are affected by botrytis.
Variegation virus
The variegation virus changes the color of the flower. Depending on the original color of the variety, it appears differently. Thus, in pink, purple and lilac varieties, the color of the flower becomes heterogeneous: strokes appear on the edge of the petals on a white or yellow background, and in the middle of the petal there are asymmetrically located stripes against the background of the original color of the variety. Tulips of red, dark red and purple colors have streaks and stripes of darker tones against the background of their own color. It is difficult to recognize the presence of the virus in white and yellow varieties, since the shading on the flowers is poorly visible.
Streaks and faint stripes of pale green color also sometimes appear on the stems and leaves. But do not confuse such specimens with varieties of tulips, in which striped leaves are a varietal characteristic.
Plants infected with the virus are weaker, the flower stem becomes shorter, and the weight of the bulbs decreases. Such tulips will continue to bloom and grow for a long time, but the variety gradually degenerates - the disease destroys the main characteristics inherent only to this variety.
The variegation virus is incurable and spreads with the sap of diseased plants; it is carried by various insects (aphids, bedbugs, thrips). In a relatively short time, you can lose your entire collection of varieties. Since the mass appearance of insect carriers is observed in the second half of May, the variegation virus mainly affects medium and late dates flowering. Early flowering varieties, Kaufman, Foster and Greig tulips are also susceptible to this virus, but by the time the aphids appear, their aerial parts have already died off and infection becomes almost impossible.
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To avoid transfer of the virus from diseased plants to healthy ones, you should not use one knife to cut flowers and remove buds. I simply break off the flowers with my hands, but so that the broken stem does not touch my fingers. To do this, I tightly grasp the flower or bud and remove it.
After use, the instrument must be disinfected with alcohol, in a solution of potassium permanganate or baking soda.
Diseased plants must be mercilessly pricked out and destroyed before the flower fully opens. Usually on the second day of coloring the petals you can already see whether the tulip is sick or not. Under no circumstances should such plants be thrown into the compost heap; ideally, they should be burned.
To prevent disease in the vicinity of tulips, you should not plant lilies, which can be infected with a virus without showing signs of disease, and planting tulips after lilies is simply unacceptable.
In most varieties of tulips, the baby is immune to the virus, so it is better to grow tulips from it.
Since the main carriers of the virus are aphids, it is important to monitor their appearance on tulip plantings and promptly combat them.
Tulip pests
Onion hoverfly- This is a greenish fly up to 1 cm long.
But the main damage to tulips is caused not by the plant itself, but by its larvae, which appear in June and September (second generation).
The larvae penetrate the tulip bulb through the bottom and make passages in it. Affected bulbs do not produce flower stalks, the leaves turn yellow and wither prematurely, and if the infection is severe, the plant may die. Fly larvae overwinter in bulbs, soil and storage areas.
We are taking action
Affected plants are removed during the growing season.
You can destroy the larvae in the bulb if you keep the infected bulbs in hot water(no more than +43°C) for 2 hours.
An effective method is deep autumn digging of the soil with rotation of the layer.
Mulching the soil with peat reduces the spread of onion hoverflies, which prevents egg laying.
It is useful to plant plants that produce phytoncides around the perimeter of flower beds with tulips: marigolds, calendula and others.
Tulip plantings are watered with infusion wood ash(500 g per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 5 l/m2.
Onion root mite- the most dangerous pest. It penetrates between the scales of the bulb and bites into its tissue. It quickly rots and may not germinate again. If it does germinate, then during the growing season the growth of tulips is delayed, the leaves turn yellow and die prematurely, and the quality of flowering deteriorates. Such plants are usually affected by other diseases and quickly die.
Bulbs can also be damaged by mites during storage if the pest remains on the old scales and roots. It reproduces especially well at temperatures around +25°C and air humidity above 70%. The outer surface of the scales is gradually covered with brown dust, the bulbs rot and dry out.
We are taking action
The bulbs are carefully inspected during digging and storage and the affected ones are discarded.
Before storing, planting material must be treated with an acaricide (Aktellik, Fitoverm and others).
You can sprinkle the bulbs with chalk or ash; they stick to the body of the mites, which die from desiccation.
An effective method of control is heat treatment of the bulbs. The affected bulbs are immersed in hot (+35-40°C) water for 5 minutes and planted in a separate bed.
If a mite is found on tulips during the growing season, you can treat the plantings with an acaricide solution, but it is still better to dig them up and destroy them.
WITH for preventive purposes after digging up tulips (and other bulbous plants), plants that are resistant to this pest are planted on the site: marigolds, pyrethrum, tomatoes, radishes.
Wireworms damage tulip bulbs during their active growth, making moves in them. Bulbs rot easily and are affected by other diseases. Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles that look like pieces copper wire, where they got their name from. The beetles lay eggs in the soil near the root collar of plants. Places overgrown with weeds are favorable for laying, especially wheatgrass and thistle - this is the favorite food of wireworms.
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Remove weeds and loosen the soil in a timely manner.
Pests prefer to live in acidic soil. Therefore, it is recommended to add lime, chalk, dolomite flour or ash.
Bait is laid out (pieces of potatoes, beets) and bait plants are sown (wheat, oats, corn, barley).
Ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate is added to the soil in an amount of 20-30 g/m2, creating unfavourable conditions for the reproduction of beetles, which leads to a reduction in the number of their larvae.
Medvedka causes significant damage to plants, gnawing their stems and roots. The bulk of the passages are located at a depth of 2-4 cm; the pest goes deeper only for wintering and to lay eggs. Around its nest, the mole cricket destroys all the plants so that the nest warms up well (it is usually located at a depth of 10-15 cm) - this serves as a good guide for searching and destroying its nests. The presence of a mole cricket in an area can also be detected by numerous holes and passages in the soil, which become especially noticeable after rain or watering.
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Mole cricket nests are destroyed during deep loosening of the soil.
Starting in spring, traps are laid out on the site: sheets of plywood, slate, iron, under which insects crawl to bask. All that remains is to regularly check the traps and destroy the pests.
At the beginning of autumn, you can make bait pits up to 0.5 m deep. They are filled with manure. Insects settle in such pits for the winter. With the onset of frost, manure is scattered from the pit and the pests die.
A similar option is for the beginning of spring. Small piles of manure are laid out around the area, in which mole crickets lay eggs. Periodically, once a month, the piles are inspected and pests are collected.
You can also catch mole crickets using water traps. To do this, jars filled with water are buried in the ground so that it does not reach 8-10 cm to the edges. Once in the water, the pest cannot get out of it.
Nematodes- These are roundworms that live in the soil. They penetrate through the root system. As a result, the shoots become shortened and have swelling. The roots quickly rot, the plant loses turgor and dies.
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Conduct heat treatment bulbs before planting.
Protective plants have different effects on nematodes. For example, marigolds are destructive for nematodes; you just need to plant varieties of rejected and thin-leaved marigolds with a strong odor. The secretions of calendula roots expel nematodes. The roots of gaillardia, rudbeckia, and coreopsis secrete substances that nematodes cannot tolerate.
Aphids damage young shoots and leaves, causing their deformation and discoloration. By sucking the juice, aphids secrete a sweet substance - honeydew, which attracts other insects. That is why you can often see ants next to aphids, feeding on sweets and aphid secretions.
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Do not overfeed plants with nitrogen fertilizers, because it is fresh young greenery that attracts aphids.
The most popular means of combating aphids is soap dissolved in water (it is more convenient to use liquid soap) and vegetable oil. The viscous consistency of the solution envelops the bodies of insects and prevents their breathing.
From chemicals you can use Inta-VIR, Alatar, Fitoverm and others.