Often, due to furniture design errors or other reasons, it is necessary to glue the edge onto the chipboard. It is almost impossible to glue a traditional plastic edge at home, especially without special equipment. The melamine edge saves the day, fortunately there are enough colors. Let's see how melamine edge gluing is done and what it is all about.
Without going into detail about what the melamine edge itself is made of, we can say that it is a tape on which adhesive is applied. At the same time, the glue is thermal, so simply gluing it on will not work. At the same time, thanks to the thermal adhesive on the chipboard, it holds well.
Fig.1.
Before we begin to describe the process of gluing melamine edges, a few words about the necessary tool and preparing the end of the chipboard. To apply the melamine edge you will need construction hair dryer, a knife and a pair of construction gloves.
Fig.2.
The end of the laminated chipboard must be clean and smooth, without sawdust and flaking parts. Otherwise, the edge will not stick to the chipboard, but will stick to it poorly. The best end is obtained after milling or sawing on a machine. The next photo will show an end of poor quality; there was simply nothing better at hand.
Fig.3.
The melamine edge gluing begins by cutting a strip of the required length or slightly longer than required from the main roll. In this case, the end that will be glued first must be trimmed. This can be done with ordinary scissors.
Next, apply the edge to the end of the chipboard. It should be said that the melamine edge is available in a width of 20 mm, i.e. it is wider than a chipboard. Therefore, at this stage it is important to align it along one edge, as in the photo.
Fig.4.
Please note that on the other side of the chipboard, the edge protrudes. In the future it needs to be trimmed.
Fig.5.
Next comes the hairdryer. For gluing melamine edges, a temperature of 250 degrees is sufficient. The edge is heated with a hairdryer, thereby melting the glue. A characteristic sign that the glue has melted is the moment when the edge loses curved shape, after being in a roll, and becomes straight. Then she simply presses against the end laminated chipboard by hand. This must be done with gloves, because... the edge is hot.
There are a few features worth mentioning.
Edge gluing should be done in a warm room, this will ensure that the glue hardens more slowly. Accordingly, there will be more time to correct the position.
The melamine edge should be heated not along its entire length, but along 20-30 cm. It’s easier to work this way, and the glue doesn’t have time to harden before the edge is pressed against the end of the chipboard. So, on average, a 60 cm long end is glued in 3 approaches. The first - the beginning of the edge is glued, the second - the middle part of the edge, the third - the end of the edge.
Do not forget that the temperature of the air from the hair dryer is about 250 degrees, so you need to work carefully and do not point the operating hair dryer at your hands or other objects.
Fig.6.
There are many options on the Internet on how to glue an edge. For example, heat it with an iron. In my opinion, this is not advisable. Sometimes, when overheated, the glue leaks out from under the edge, and most likely it can ruin the iron, and it costs more than a hair dryer. It is also suggested to cool the edge different ways. This is also not advisable, because at a room temperature of 25 degrees, the edge cools down before the glue hardens in a few seconds, and in my opinion, it is not advisable to come up with additional operations.
The last step is cutting the melamine edge.
Fig.7.
IN in this case trimmed with regular kitchen knife, there was simply nothing else at hand. The result is not the best. A sharp knife with a thick blade, such as a shoe knife, gives a good result. The knife should be positioned at an angle to the edge of about 30-45 degrees from the bottom side. Gives the best result special device for trimming melamine edges, but I personally never managed to purchase one.
In conclusion, I will say one more interesting feature. As you can see in the photo, the edge cut is white, which doesn’t look very good against the cherry color background. This can be eliminated using wood stain on water based. You just need to moisten a rag in the stain and wipe the cut with it, removing the excess. For example, for cherry-colored chipboard, a mahogany stain is well suited.
Making furniture with your own hands brings considerable savings Money. Basically, laminated chipboard, a material glued together from sawdust, is used for this purpose.
The main task of furniture edges is lining the end surfaces of laminated chipboards.After cutting, its edges have an unattractive appearance and require further processing.
The tabletop is the most vulnerable element of furniture, and its edge must be given special attention.
At the moment, there are several ways to give the ends of the tabletop an aesthetic appearance. Only 2 of them are suitable for making edges at home:
Applicable edges
Modern technologies make it possible to produce various edges. However, not all are suitable for gluing at home. Melamine tapes are produced in widths of 19-54 mm. With a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm, they allow you to refine the edges of countertops of various shapes.
A large assortment of decors, which, in terms of color, closely match the chipboard.
A PVC strip of the same width may be slightly thicker. For gluing the ends of the tabletop, edges are produced with or without an applied adhesive layer.
PVC plastic obtained by extrusion is able to withstand temperatures from minus 10 to plus 50 degrees.
Tools
If you decide to glue the edge yourself, check that you have the tools. Prepare before starting work:
To fix the PVC edge, you can use a clamp and a wooden block. If possible, use a hand router to finish the edging.
The router is expensive and it is not profitable to buy it for one-time pasting.
Prepare your workspace, taking into account the space for turning the tabletop. And, most importantly, buy the appropriate melamine tape or PVC edge.
Choose a ribbon that matches the color of the countertop.Melamine tape
The cheapest and most accessible way to improve edges. Does not require the purchase of glue or specialized tools. Everything you need can be found in any household, and the process will take a few minutes.
The edge processed in this way looks very neat.
Should be used for finishing hard-to-reach edges of table tops. At the same time, do not forget about dampness, which will penetrate under the edge and destroy the material.
The gluing technology looks quite simple.
PVC strip
A more progressive and aesthetically pleasing way. True, its implementation requires some skill, but after practicing on scraps, you can master this method.
The edge, resistant to abrasion and moisture, will ensure long-term use of the tabletop in any interior.
When gluing the PVC edge, follow the following sequence.
A properly selected and glued edge will give the tabletop an attractive appearance, and it will serve you for many years.
You can also get such a smooth and neat edge yourself.
VIDEO: Gluing furniture melamine edges with an iron.
50 original types of countertops:
Melamine edging, which you can buy on our website, is the most common and affordable edging material for furniture finishing. This edging tape is made from textured paper web by applying urea (melamine) resins to it. To protect the material from melamine evaporation, a layer of special varnish is applied to it. The variety of colors and textures of the edging tape is provided by multicolor printing.
Which melamine edging should I buy?
Melamine furniture edging is sold by manufacturers in two versions:
- Edge without glue - designed for automated production. When applied to furniture, it requires specialized equipment to heat the granular adhesive.
- Melamine edge with glue - can be applied to chipboard cuts or furniture facades by direct heating.
On the MDM-Komplekt website (Moscow) you can buy edging material wholesale and retail. Melamine edging with and without glue is sold in reels, the price of the product is indicated per linear meter.
Why edge chipboard is done and how to glue the edge with an iron
Chipboard is the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not very aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed on the end side - the installation of special decorative panels made of melamine, PVC or other available types synthetic plastics.
Why else do they edge furniture?
In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, edging furniture performs several more equally important tasks:
- Moisture protection. It is known that when wet, chipboard swells and loses its original shape and strength. The plastic edge prevents moisture from penetrating from the ends. This is especially true for rooms where there are constant flows of water - kitchen, bathroom, dining room, etc.
The edge, in addition to giving the furniture a finished look, performs several other important functions.
Where should edging be done?
Furniture manufacturers often edge only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this seems quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can lead to certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of the chipboard.
If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can easily do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with a regular iron.
Don’t be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.
Edge materials
Edging the open surfaces of furniture can be done using various decorative elements that differ in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.
- Melamine tape. The simplest and cheapest edge. It is used in budget products and can be destroyed by moisture or mechanical stress. The main advantage of such a tape is its price and ease of application.
Advantages and disadvantages of melamine edging
How to glue an edge with an iron
In production, edging is done using tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation at a high temperature, ensuring the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove any remaining glue and base material, and sand the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.
You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use a tape with already applied adhesive composition. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in a similar way:
- Melamine tape can be glued with a regular household iron. To do this, you need to cut off a piece of edge with a margin of length and width, place it on the end being processed and carefully smooth it with an iron. After passing the iron, the heated surface must be pressed using a wooden block or any other object capable of transmitting the necessary load.
When heated, the adhesive firmly adheres the edge to the chipboard
The knife used to remove excess edges must be very sharp.
You can find out more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard below:
Gluing the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have already discussed this method earlier. This edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects from damage.
The presence of microgaps between the U-profile edge and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or bathroom, so edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.
Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. At the factory, you can order tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on a machine will ensure perfect evenness and precision of application. decorative cladding, but requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the minimum price.
You might be interested to know
http://drevplity.ru
Melamine edging is a traditional edging material used in the manufacture of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard. Despite the fact that today there are more wear-resistant edge materials, for example, based on PVC or ABS, melamine edge is one of the first places in terms of applicability. There are two main reasons for this: low price and simplicity of edging technology. We will show you how, using simple and accessible tools, you can qualitatively edge a part made of chipboard.
Edging tools:
- Iron. Any one will do, but preferably small in size, without steam holes and with a thick sole. It is important that the soleplate of the iron is clean and free of deep scratches.
- Knife. You can work with an ordinary stationery (construction) knife, which will be discussed below. A shoe knife and a plane knife will also work. There are special ready-made devices for quick edge cutting, for example, from Virutex.
- Bar with sandpaper. You can buy a ready-made one or make it yourself by gluing a piece of sandpaper onto a workpiece of suitable size (it’s convenient when the block has sandpaper of different grain sizes on different sides). Recommended grain size is 150 units.
Edge technology.
It should be said that the quality of edging largely depends on how well the laminated chipboard is cut. The surface of the end of the part should be smooth, without a visible step from the scoring (sawing) disk of the format-cutting machine, there should be no obvious chips of the laminate and “lifting” of the laminate when a chip has just begun to form. High-quality and fast cutting of laminated chipboards is performed only on special equipment. The edge must be used with pre-applied adhesive. The edge is sold in rolls of 200 rm, but you can almost always buy it in lengths of 1 rm. A typical melamine edge is 19 mm wide and 0.3-0.4 mm thick (excluding adhesive thickness).
The process of edge processing of one end of a part consists of the following steps:
- The part is installed vertically in an improvised holding device so that the processed end is on top.
- An edge segment is measured 2-4 cm longer than the length of the processed side of the part.
- The edge is placed exactly in the center on the end of the part, with equal releases along the edges.
- Holding the position of the edge on the part with one hand, the edge is smoothed with a hot iron (the temperature of the iron is selected experimentally; at too high a temperature, the edge begins to bubble, at a low temperature it does not stick well or takes a long time). Press the iron with moderate force. Excessive pressure may cause the edge to move, but not enough pressure will cause the glue to fail. Indirect confirmation of good heating of the edge can be slightly squeezed out glue from under the edge. Special attention should be given to the ends of the edge and the places where it contacts the laminated surfaces of the part.
- After warming up the edge, it needs to be cooled. A small cloth will do for this operation. Smooth the edge with a cloth, pressing lightly so that when it cools, the edge does not come off. After the edge has cooled to about 50°C (there is no point in waiting until the edge reaches room temperature), you can start cutting off the excess.
- First, remove excess from the ends. To do this, the free ends of the edge are carefully bent down, the edge is broken, the break point is lightly sanded using an emery block and the excess is simply torn off. All that remains is to work a little more with the sanding block so that the edge is flush with the mating side (does not protrude or catch).
- To cut off excess edge length, you need to set the knife blade at approximately 45° (see photo) and run the knife along the end of the part. Angle of inclination (adjacent) relative to the plane of the part is determined experimentally (depending on the knife). This operation requires skill and practice. It is important not to damage the laminate (do not cause chips). After cutting off all the overhangs, you need to lightly process the edges of the end of the part with a block of sandpaper, and the edging can be considered complete. Excess glue can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in acetone or gasoline. If a local gap is noticed, the problem area should be heated with an iron and pressed again with a cloth. Also, by reheating, the edge can be completely removed from the part.
Edging kit: iron, knife, block with sandpaper.
A block with sandpaper glued on it.
When making furniture from laminated chipboard, the edges of parts without treatment have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, furniture edges and profiles are used. It’s more convenient to work with them using special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.
Types of furniture edges
One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the unsightly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. It is made from different materials, and accordingly, it has different properties and prices.
Paper or melamine edges
The cheapest option is melamine-impregnated paper edges. The paper is taken of high density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued to papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layer (cheaper) or double-layer. To prevent the melamine coating from wearing off, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge the parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the back side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, you just need to slightly warm up this composition and press it well against the end.
Paper or melamine edge is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture
The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm - the most common. There is no point in making it thicker, and it will be expensive.
This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge quickly wears out. Therefore, if it is used, it is only on those surfaces that are not subject to load. For example, on the back of shelves, tabletops, etc.
PVC
Polyvinyl chloride, which has recently become widespread, is also used in the production of edges for furniture. A ribbon of a certain width and thickness is formed from a mass painted in a certain color. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it’s easy to choose the right one.
PVC furniture edging is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:
PVC furniture edging is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or external appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is a furniture PVC edge with an adhesive applied, and there is one without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).
This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heat, you must be careful so as not to melt the polymer.
Made from ABS plastic
This polymer does not contain heavy metals, characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered the high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:
This type of edge can be matte, glossy or semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to use and more durable to use.
Veneer edge
Veneer is a thin section of wood, colored and shaped into a strip. This furniture edge is used in production for gluing sections of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.
Veneer is not the most popular material for edging
Acrylic edge or 3D
Made from transparent acrylic. On back side stripes are applied. The layer of polymer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. Used in the production of unusual furniture.
Profiles for processing furniture edges
You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are attached mechanically. They are available in two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).
For T-shaped furniture profiles, a groove is milled in the edge being processed. The profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the angle look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum; with the same installation method, they look very different, and the differences are significant.
In width they are available for laminated chipboards of 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.
C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted with glue. They coat the edge with it, then put on a plastic profile, press it well and fix it. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Hard ones are harder to bend and it’s difficult to paste them over curved edges. But they have great strength.
If you still need to “plant” a hard C-shaped furniture profile to bend, it is heated with a construction hairdryer, then given the desired shape and secured with masking tape until the glue dries.
We glue furniture edges with our own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those that have glue applied to the back. In this case, an iron or a hair dryer is needed. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good universal glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.
A little about what thickness of edge to glue on which parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, do not need to be glued at all, but basically they try to treat them so that less moisture is absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or 0.4 mm PVC is glued to these edges. The edges of the drawers (not the fronts) are also processed.
It is better to use 2 mm PVC on the front ends of the facade and drawers, and 1 mm PVC on the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.
How to glue edging yourself with glue
The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge; it can be applied to PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process; any melamine ones are easy to glue.
We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, thick cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We set the iron to about “two”, while it is heating up we cut off a piece of tape. The length is a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.
We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging off both sides. We take an iron and, using a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. It is necessary to heat evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.
The edge can be cut with a knife, both with the sharp and blunt sides. Some people use a regular metal ruler, while others find it more convenient to use a stainless steel spatula.
So, take the tool you have chosen and cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are easily cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible if there is one. This guarantees good result V a short time. The processing will take longer if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.
One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part should be smooth, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, first go over the cuts with sandpaper, then thoroughly remove dust and degrease. Only after this can you glue.
Edging with PVC tape (no glue on the back side)
With this method of self-gluing PVC edges You need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue and carry out all the steps as recommended. For example, for Moment glue, you need to apply the composition to the surface and distribute it, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.
Apply glue and wait - no problem. To press the edge tightly to the cut, you can use a wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a block, you can take a construction float and also attach felt to its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up thick fabric in several layers and press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all its weight, pressing it against the surface of the chipboard. The movements are stroking. This is how they iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue “seizes.” Then you can start processing the edges.
In this article we will look at the simplest option - gluing a 2 mm edge with pre-applied hot glue. You can order such an edge either from the supplier or from the workshop. The increase in its cost will be 2-5 rubles per meter.
To glue such an edge we will need a technical hair dryer (heat gun), a router (preferably an edge cutter), a molding cutter, a sharp knife, a file and a cotton glove.
We fix the part vertically or horizontally - whichever is more convenient for you (it is advisable to fix it with clamps).
First, warm up the tip (about 5 cm) of the edge well so that the glue melts and the edge itself becomes soft.
We apply the edge and, warming the glue with a stream of air, together with the end of the part, smooth the edge with a gloved hand. Having warmed up an area about 10 cm long, put the hair dryer aside and iron the area more thoroughly, and so on each time. The main thing here is not to overheat the edge (an overheated edge bends easily - just on its own - and in this case, the places where the bends will remain visible in the form of waves). 
We look at the glue seam again, warm up the unglued areas with a hairdryer again (and you need to heat it with front side, warming up the entire edge) and smooth it until it fits completely.
Let's move on to cutting off the overhangs. if you have edge router, then everything is fine, but if it’s only a universal manual one, then it will require modification, because You can’t place it on the edge of the workpiece - the overhang gets in the way.
I screwed a piece of laminated chipboard onto the sole, which allowed me to raise the sole on only one side.
Then, of course, I made myself a normal edger - that’s what I’ll use in the lesson.
Practice on scraps first to fine-tune the cutter cut, otherwise you risk damaging the laminate. Like this, for example: 
We carefully move a milling cutter with a molding cutter (rounding radius 3 mm) along the surface of the workpiece, cutting off excess edges.
We turn it over to the other side and repeat all the manipulations of smoothing the jambs and cutting off the overhangs.
We cut off the remains from the ends as follows: apply pressure with a sharp knife along the edge, forming a scratch. We place the workpiece on the edge of the table along the scratch line, and then break it off moving downwards.
Or saw off a piece from the end hacksaw blade(the main thing here is not to scratch the adjacent edge, perpendicular to the one being sawn off).
We clean up unevenness and roughness with a file.
The end result should be something similar. For clarity, a straight (short) piece of edge was glued on a machine, and a long piece (which covers the bend) was glued by hand. The difference is almost invisible.
Chipboard is the most suitable material for the production of reliable and high-quality inexpensive furniture. In order to hide the not very aesthetically pleasing internal structure of the product, edging is performed on the end side - the installation of special decorative panels from melamine, PVC or other available types of synthetic plastics.
Why else do they edge furniture?
In addition to the most obvious goal - to provide an elegant appearance, edging furniture performs several more equally important tasks:
Where should edging be done?
Furniture manufacturers often edge only the visible parts of the end surfaces. From the point of view of economy, this seems quite understandable, but taking into account the above facts, this approach can lead to certain problems - the protective edge must be present in all places where there is an open internal structure of the chipboard.
If you purchased furniture with unprotected edges, you can easily do their edging yourself at home. To do this, you do not need to have any special equipment - the edge can be glued with a regular iron.
Don’t be lazy to spend a few minutes on this operation - you will reliably protect yourself and your furniture and significantly extend its service life. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly glue the edge tape with your own hands.
Edge materials
Edging open furniture surfaces can be done using various decorative elements that differ in the quality of the material, appearance and, accordingly, cost.
How to glue an edge with an iron
In production, edging is done using tape with a clean base. The adhesive composition is applied to it during installation at a high temperature, ensuring the formation of a thin, even layer. In order to glue the edge, several rollers are used, pressing it tightly to the base of the chipboard. Then special cutters cut the tape to the size of the part, remove any remaining glue and base material, and sand the joint until a smooth and beautiful surface is obtained.
You can also glue the edge at home. To do this, you need to use tape with an adhesive composition already applied. Further, the process largely repeats industrial edging, since it is performed in a similar way:
You can learn more about the process of gluing edges on chipboard in the video below:
Gluing the U-shaped profile to the end of the chipboard is somewhat easier. We have already discussed this method earlier. This edge is much stronger than melamine, bends quite easily and reliably protects from damage.
The presence of microgaps between the U-profile edge and the front surface of the chipboard does not allow gluing it in the kitchen or bathroom, so edging with this material is mainly used for office furniture.
Edging chipboard, of course, is best done in the factory. At the factory, you can order tape from any materials, including plastic, PVC and other modern composite materials. Edging on a machine will ensure ideal evenness and accuracy of application of decorative cladding, but it requires certain costs. If the main task is to meet a predetermined small budget, applying melamine tape with your own hands will allow you to combine acceptable quality and the minimum price.
You might be interested to know
This article will most likely not be of interest to professional furniture makers. But for amateurs who, for some reason, do not have access to PVC edges with glue applied, but really want to cover their furniture with PVC, it will have to be “at the box office”. Moreover, you can sculpt not only 2 mm, but also 0.4 mm PVC edges.
Today we will talk about the process of gluing this type of edge not with traditional hot melt adhesive, but with contact adhesive.
I use glue, but you can use the traditional one.
We cut the edge into pieces slightly larger (about 10 mm) than the length of the part to be glued (in the photo I will glue the ends). A garden pruner is great for cutting, but you can simply scratch the edge with a sharp object - it will break exactly where the scratch is.
Apply glue to the part (some adhesives require application to both surfaces being glued - read the instructions).
Then we turn the part over and place it on the edge, pressing it against a flat surface.
Now the part needs to be fixed until the glue dries.
To do this, you can use specialized edge clamps. I use them - they are screwed onto regular F-shaped ones.
It is better to press through a wooden block for a more even distribution of pressure.
The second option is to use special clamps. I made these out of a couple pieces of plywood and some dowels.
After the glue has dried, release the parts from the clamps and trim the ends. This can be done either with the same pruning shears or again by scratching and breaking off.
In both cases, the result is a cut like this, which sometimes has to be fine-tuned a little with fine sandpaper on a block.
Now we move on to removing overhangs from the edges.
Glue the edge on the chipboard
For a 0.4 mm edge, a knife or ruler is sufficient (similar to melamine). For a 2 mm edge, you will need an edge router.
The figured () cutter, running along the edge with a bearing, cuts off its protruding part.
The result is a slightly rough cut that needs to be polished.
To do this, use a piece of felt to make several vigorous movements along the edge. As it warms up, it smoothes out the roughness.
The result is a smooth edge no worse than with professional equipment
Although more expensive and longer. The technique, of course, is artisanal, but it has the right to life.
Posted in: Practical part.
Tagged: chipboard end
Design, processing, sealing chipboard edges. Edge, edge, end, finishing. To close up, to arrange, to process, to finish
How to close up beautifully chipboard edge? Finishing the end of the polished plate, processing the laminated edge. Techniques for edging chipboard. (10+)
Chipboard end design
Edging chipboard is necessary when making furniture. We present to your attention materials for making furniture with your own hands.
Chipboard edge structure
Particle board consists of sawdust mixed with glue and pressed. Moreover, the process of pressing and drying the glue is organized in such a way as to obtain dense surfaces and a rather rotten center. This is done so that the chipboard springs and does not break. If the entire mass of the sheet is made dense, the sheet will crack due to very slight deformation.
We usually do not contact the internal structure chipboard sheet. It is fenced off from us by dense surfaces and a laminating coating (if the chipboard is laminated). But the end reveals this beauty to us. Our goal is to hide it from the eyes of those who will admire our product.
In addition to aesthetic ones, there are several other reasons why you need to seal the end of the chipboard, even in places that are not visible to the eye. Moisture. Chipboard is very sensitive to moisture, even small amounts absorbed from the air. The surfaces of laminated chipboard do not allow moisture to pass through; the surface of sanded chipboard is usually painted and also does not allow moisture to pass through. The edge should also not allow moisture to pass through. Mushrooms. Through the end, microorganisms and insects can penetrate into the slab and decompose the wood. Harmful substances. Harmful substances contained in the glue and the sawdust themselves from which the chipboard is made do not penetrate the laminated or painted surface, but will enter the room through the end.
Options for edging and chipboard edge design
Options for end processing (edging) depend, first of all, on how the sheet itself will be finished. If the sheet is laminated, and you plan to use its laminated surface completely, that is, not paint or cover it with anything, then an edge tape that matches the appearance of the laminated surface must be glued to the visible edges, and the hidden edges must be puttied and sealed with a construction bandage. If the sheet is laminated or sanded, and you plan to paint it, then the sheet itself must be primed, its edges must be puttied, sealed with a construction bandage that goes over the plane of the sheet, the bandage must be puttied and painted.
The end of the laminated chipboard
Visible end
When cutting such chipboard, you need to be very careful and use a sawing tool that leaves a smooth edge. Laminating chipboard covering When cutting, it really likes to crumble and chip off. If this happens, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. I don’t know of any way to beautifully fix such a chip. You'll either have to put up with it or saw off a new piece. Next, I recommend filling the edge. Many people glue the edge tape directly to the sawn edge, but I tried this and gave up. The tape does not adhere well to such a surface. I fill the edge with acrylic universal putty. After drying, sand the skin with medium-grain sandpaper. I do this very carefully so as not to chip the laminate with chipboard. Next, I paste the tape onto the leveled surface.
I will focus on the types of tapes - edges. Usually this is paper (in the general sense of the word ‘paper’) tape and plastic. The paper tape is sold with hot-melt adhesive already applied. It is glued with an iron. I will not dwell on this process in detail; there is enough material on this topic on the Internet. You need to pay attention to the quality of the tape and glue. If the tape subsequently lags behind, it can be glued with regular glue, it will not be noticeable. The plastic tape is glued with glue. The glue may already be applied to the plastic tape and covered with a paper protective strip. This is a bad case. This glue sticks very poorly. Do not buy plastic edging with glue already applied.
What glue should I use? It is better to use the glue recommended by the edge manufacturer. However, note, You should make sure that there is a solvent for this glue that allows you to remove excess glue and not damage the plastic border and the coating of the chipboard sheet itself. Then you will be comfortable.
How to glue edges on chipboard and PVC
According to the instructions for the glue, you will glue the edge, and remove the protruding glue with a swab moistened with the specified solvent. Difficulties can arise if the glue is dissolved only by solvents that dissolve plastic. Excess glue cannot be removed with this solvent; such glue is not suitable for us.
Design of the invisible end
Let's putty it. Sand with medium-grain sandpaper. Be careful not to chip, as in the previous case. In principle, we can stop there. However better with glue PVA glue a strip of construction bandage to the putty end. It (the bandage) will prevent the putty from splitting and spilling out. Usually the bandage is slightly wider than the edge. We glue the bandage so that the edge is in the middle of it. When the glue dries, use a sharp knife, carefully so as not to damage the laminated chipboard, remove the excess bandage.
Chipboard end for painting
In this case, cutting can be carried out without much danger, since chips and defects can easily be corrected with putty. If we are working with laminated chipboard, but still want to paint it, then we apply primer to the entire product. Soil will do GF-021 or Otex from Tikkurila. If sanded chipboard is used, then priming is not necessary, although it is advisable. We putty the end. I use acrylic putty with fine filler. We skin it. We should get a smooth rectangular edge. Sometimes this requires several iterations of sanding and putty. When we are happy with the edge, it needs to be secured, otherwise it will chip or crack. Putty is not a very durable and reliable material. We glue the edge with a construction bandage 4 - 5 cm wider than the end. We use PVA glue. We bend the bandage so that it sticks to the end of the chipboard and extends onto the upper and lower planes. See picture. After the glue has dried, we fill the construction bandage with fine acrylic putty. Usually one putty is used for all these works. We especially pay attention to the strip where the bandage ends and the chipboard itself begins. Here you need to putty especially carefully so that after sanding and painting the transition is absolutely not noticeable. We dry the putty, sand it with fine sandpaper, and paint it.
Despite the monstrous appearance on the diagram on an enlarged scale, in reality the presence of bandage and putty on the end of the chipboard, if everything is done correctly, is completely unnoticeable.
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Furniture edging PVC
PVC furniture edge is a narrow strip of polyvinyl chloride, which is used for gluing the ends of laminated chipboards. It not only protects the chipboard from damage, but is also a decorative element.
Melamine edging is also widely used in furniture production. But since it is made from paper soaked in saline solution, it has a number of disadvantages. These include small thickness, fragility and susceptibility mechanical damage. That is why many manufacturers of furniture and interior items prefer PVC tape.
PVC edges have the following advantages:
- high level of strength;
- reliable protection against chips and moisture, which allows you to increase the service life of products;
- high resistance to chemical compounds, ultraviolet radiation, and fire;
- relatively low cost.
PVC edge is a narrow strip of polyvinyl chloride. Edge tape is an elegant addition to furniture structures made from chipboard. It protects products from physical, chemical and biological damage, while at the same time giving the furniture elegance, be it a tabletop, cabinet or any other product. It is enough to paste over the ends of the furniture to give it a finished look. Edge PVC tape can work wonders even with ordinary furniture, giving it a touch of sophistication and sophistication. There is a huge variety of colors, shades, decor and textures, so you can use this decorative element to any furniture. In addition, the edge material will add performance characteristics to the furniture, protecting the furniture from moisture and reducing the evaporation of resins.
Furniture edging is an easy-to-use and very practical decorative element that facilitates the operation of laminated chipboard furniture.
High-quality edging tape gives furniture products durability, reliability and strength. The tape is easy to wash as it is moisture resistant. The PVC facing edge is additionally coated acrylic resin so that it is not exposed to any influence.
In the production of furniture and components on an industrial scale, several types of tapes are used, including ABS, adhesive-based edge tape and PVC. If we are talking about exclusive designer furniture or premium class furniture, then original edge materials are used, including aluminum edge, high gloss, 3D edge, etc.
PVC products made in China are rightfully considered one of the best edging tapes. This edging material is distinguished by its particular aesthetics and functionality, as well as its long service life.
PVC edging China is produced in accordance with the latest advances and in accordance with all sanitary and hygienic standards. Furniture edge China is considered the best option for furniture made of chipboard and decorating an office or home.
Our company offers a large assortment PVC edges of different textures and colors. Based on your choice, we will offer you an adhesive that will most securely attach the edge material to the furniture. Of course, the issue of accuracy in furniture design will directly depend on the quality of the equipment and the qualifications of the staff. If you want to choose a unique stone surface or a classic wood texture, then we will help you choose the right edging tape option.
Gluing the ends of the chipboard with plastic edges.
All you have to do is specify the texture, decor and color of the material, in accordance with your taste preferences. With edging tape you can literally transform the furniture in your home. The products, as well as their production technology, meet the highest standards of quality, safety and environmental friendliness.
We offer you a wide range of PVC edges at an attractive price.
Having pasted the end of a chipboard with a melamine edge, have no doubt that the treated surface will look worse than pasting the edge on a low-quality machine - if you glue the edge correctly, in accordance with the algorithm, the result is brilliant.
What is the edge glued to?
- For parts in contact with the floor.
- To elements that will be subject to mechanical stress in the future.
- To internal parts, for example, parts of drawers of a chest of drawers or bedside tables, laminated boards.
What do you need for gluing the edges?
- Iron.
- Cutter or stationery knife, a necessary thing, can be used both when assembling furniture and when assembling various elements, for example, a mosquito net.
- A piece of felt or a damp piece of fabric - a rag.
- Sandpaper, or even better, a block covered with sandpaper, it will be more convenient to work with.
- Parts holder or vice.
- Actually the edge itself.
How to prepare for gluing edges
So that the final result of your work looks impeccable and looks quite aesthetically pleasing when gluing the edges, you should use a good iron; it is advisable that Teflon be used as the basis for the surface. Make sure that the ironing surface of the iron is clean - if there is dirt, it must be removed. If you have selected this tool, you can start gluing the shelves of a wardrobe, for example.
To make the work more convenient, you should not use ordinary knives; a cutter is ideal. If you do not have such a knife, then you need to find an old knife blade and construct a cutter from it yourself.
You can make the block yourself - you even need to take an ordinary piece of chipboard and cover it with sandpaper on one side.
A melamine edge is sold with a layer of glue already prepared on it, but if you are “lucky enough” to purchase an edge without adhesive coating, you need to apply glue to it yourself.
The holder can also be easily constructed independently from the remnants of chipboard; to do this, you need to take two small pieces of material and stuff them at a short distance from each other perpendicular to the base.
The process of gluing the edges is carried out in stages
- After unwinding the coil, attach it to the end of the part, leaving a little edge for trimming.
How to glue PVC edges to chipboard at home
The standard edge width is 2.1 cm, and chipboard, as a rule, has a width of 1.6-1.8 cm, so there will also be room for trimming and rubbing the edges. In order not to do unnecessary work and not to cut the edge along both edges, it is better to align it along one side, and subsequently trim off the excess only on the other side.
- Having attached the edge to the facade, begin to heat it and iron it. Particular attention should be paid to the edges of the ends - ironing there must be done most carefully.
- Parts of short length are ironed entirely and immediately, while longer sections should be heated and ironed in parts - sections of 40 centimeters each. The end is cooled with felt or a damp cloth.
- Based on the quality of the tape used, the heating temperature of the iron is selected and adjusted. If everything is set correctly, the iron glides directly across the surface and does not catch on anything or scratch the edge. If the heating is correct, the glue under the edge will spread evenly. And if you overdo it and overheat the edge, then bubbles will appear and the edge will have to be removed and thrown away.
- If you do spoil some area, then in order to remove the damaged material, you need to heat it again and pry it off with a knife. Having cleaned the surface, you can start gluing again.
- If the edge is of high quality, it will stick only after it has completely cooled. Having discovered that the edge has completely cooled, you can begin trimming the excess. You can cut it correctly by bending the edge and rubbing it with a block until the chamfer is visible. white. Having seen the substrate, you can already trim off the unnecessary material.
- After trimming, all edges are carefully and thoroughly rubbed with a block of sandpaper. At this stage, the gluing of the melamine edge is completed. And you can safely begin installing the handles.
In furniture production, edging is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapors.
You will learn about what types of edges there are, as well as methods for gluing them and how to glue the edges with an iron and hairdryer from this article.
Types of edges - why are they needed?
- The most common type is melamine edge with glue on paper based . Used for finishing interior areas of furniture. Available, inexpensive, but not the highest quality option. Does not tolerate moisture and wears out quickly. Easily glued at home with a simple iron.
- T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped strip, it is inserted into a slot in the side of chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
- PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant and resistant to moisture. To glue PVC edging, you will need an edge processing machine, so using this type of edges at home is difficult.
- ABS plastic is an eco-friendly option without chlorine. Prized for its resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.
All options can be divided into two subtypes - edges without glue and with glue.
Average cost of a profile per linear meter:
- PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
- PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
- Melamine material for chipboard – about 25 rubles.
In our country, they actively use products from the company Rehau, which offers a large selection color solutions, and different widths tapes from 15 to 45 mm.
To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs, which will calculate how much material is needed to glue the edges.
PVC edge - how to glue it step by step at home
To work you will need:
- iron or hair dryer,
- and of course buy PVC edges with glue
- hard roller,
- newspaper or paper sheet
The material is heated to make the glue sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the “Synthetic” mode.
- The profile is applied to the end so that it overlaps the end of the section.
- Next, the iron is used to heat again through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
- The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along its entire length.
- Gluing with a hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end of the desired area, clamped and gently smoothed.
- Gluing with Moment glue. This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the end is checked manually, sawdust, debris, and dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After this, apply and press. Using a roller, roll the area so that the glue sets faster.
VIDEO
How to remove excess material
If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, apply glue to the area again and clamp the profile using a roller or manually.
Since the width of PVC edges is usually taken with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular stationery knife or file. Take it with both hands and press on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts break off and an edge remains that matches the width of the area.
Shutdown
After everything is glued, all that remains is to sand the uneven surfaces with sandpaper.
How to glue an edge to chipboard - description
Melamine edge is best option for use at home when it is necessary to restore old furniture at minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality materials.
Let's consider how to glue edges to chipboard tabletops at home.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ON THE TOPIC
For work you will need the following materials:
- skin,
- sharpened knife-jamb,
- wallpaper roller,
- melamine edge,
- hair dryer or iron.
Algorithm of actions:
- choose the operating mode of the iron so that it does not heat up too much and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
- Process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, remove irregularities,
- measure the profile,
- heat it with an iron and press it tightly to the area using a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, “Moment” glue),
- cut off the overhanging edges of the edge with a knife.
It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly bending the material. Then all that remains is to sand the edges so that there are no burrs or irregularities left.
If the cut of the edge itself Chipboard details slightly different, stain will help correct the difference.
If the part has a complex shape and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth turning to professionals so as not to damage the product.
Types of edging glueWhich glue to choose for edges
Professionals furniture production actively use hot melt adhesives for edges. They are convenient if production will be put on stream, and it is required as high quality results and fast speed.
Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means they become very elastic when heated and quickly harden when cooled. The ethylene polymer with vinyl acetate included in the adhesive is responsible for these properties. The disadvantage of using it is the need to use special equipment, namely appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.
- IN living conditions PVC glue is often used, which glues paper materials well to various surfaces. The homogeneous, lump-free, light-colored mass glues surfaces well, but is susceptible to moisture. Does not require application additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for use by non-professional craftsmen.
- Universal adhesives “Moment” and “88-lux” are suitable, which will reliably glue the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
- Among professional furniture adhesives for edges, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing material using the soft-forming method (if the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.