How can you fill a large cellar on the street? How to get rid of dampness in the cellar and basement forever

When the long-awaited spring comes, many begin to have problems with flooding of cellars and basements. This unpleasant situation occurs due to rising groundwater levels. The earth becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and holds it in itself. If the groundwater level rises above the foundation, then moisture seeps into the room through cracks.

The cause of basement flooding is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, and reservoirs. Also, the groundwater level is affected by melted snow and precipitation in the form of rain. There are several ways to help cope with annual flooding. By choosing one of them, you will be able to make your basement dry.

Creation of a drainage system

Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and a well. With its help, it is possible to prevent flooding of basements, as well as drain land plot. The drainage system is made during the construction of the basement. Right installed system, will help you forget about water in the basement once and for all and protect the foundation from destruction.

How does the drainage system work?
The basis of drainage is a pipe large diameter(at least 100 mm). It has holes all over its surface. Through them, groundwater seeps into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, the following conditions must be created:

Dig a trench with a slope around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and drainage.
Be sure to use filter materials (geotextiles and crushed stone) that will protect the pipe from flooding.
Drainage to the central sewerage system, where a large volume of groundwater will accumulate.

What is necessary:

drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
fine, washed crushed stone;
geotextile fabric;
river sand.

Installation

Make a trench below floor level around the foundation and a deep well at a distance of 10-15 meters from the building. The trench must have a slope sufficient for water to drain.
Place a geotextile fabric in the dug trench. And then fill it with crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm). This way you will create a primary layer that filters groundwater.
On next stage lay down drainage pipe(preferably two-layer in geotextile) on a layer of crushed stone. Make sure that the slope is maintained throughout the trench. Using a tee, lay the outlet pipe to the well.
Cover the laid pipe completely with crushed stone. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Fold the free edges of the geotextile fabric over the crushed stone bedding. This will completely isolate the drainage from the ground. After this, fill the trench with sand.

As a result, you will have a reliable drainage system. Geotextiles and crushed stone act as a filter, preventing the perforated pipe from clogging. And sand will ensure the transport of moisture from the soil surface to the drainage channel.

Conclusion
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help eliminate main reason flooding – high level groundwater. The result of drainage will be dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own significant drawback. It is customary (according to technology) to install drainage channels outside the premises, so not all basements can be equipped in this way.

However, in exceptional cases, basement owners can build drainage channels indoors. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some moments that occur during the floor screed stage. After installation internal system drainage system, the basement will lose 30 cm of height.

Creation of an automatic water pumping system

Not all basement owners have the opportunity to create a slope with the system drainage outlet water. Therefore, in such areas a different method is used. To dry the room, install automatic system pumping out excess water.

What does that require:

Create a recess (pit) in the basement. Dig a hole measuring 50x50x50 cm. Then reinforce it with concrete or brickwork - this must be done to prevent the destruction of the walls. Pour 10 cm thick gravel into the hole.
Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water accumulates.

Installation
Place the pump in the dug pit, connect the hoses to it and take them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the hole. The pump will start working, reacting to the rising level, and pump out excess moisture. This will continue until groundwater will not go away completely.

Conclusion
Enough simple system, which is inexpensive. Quick to install and easy to configure. But this system has two significant drawbacks. First, the pump works properly until it exhausts its service life, and then it will have to be replaced. Second, a water pumping system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but will only temporarily relieve the consequences.

Creating waterproofing in the basement

Waterproofing walls and floors helps provide a quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bitumen mastic and plaster. Apply layers above the flood level with a margin of height in case groundwater rises.

What does that require:

Buy materials: Hydrotex or Penetron, bitumen mastic, sand, waterproof cement, and metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
Collect necessary tools: a hard brush and spatula for applying compounds, an iron brush for grouting between brick seams or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the mortar.
Prepare the basement: pump out the water - for this it is convenient to use the “Malysh” pump with a bottom suction. After drying, clean the surface of the floor and walls from dirt. Brush seams, corners, and cracks.

Installation

Treat the concrete floor and walls with penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs macrocracks through which water penetrates into the basement.
Then coat it bitumen mastic corners, seams, cracks. Then apply the mastic in the same way to the remaining surface of the walls and floor. The layer thickness should be at least 2 cm.
Attach metal grill to Wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare a cement mortar of medium viscosity. Using a spatula, apply a 3 cm thick layer of plaster.
Lay it on the floor metal mesh and fill with liquid cement mortar and give it time to dry. At this point, the process of creating basement waterproofing can be considered complete.

Conclusion
The waterproofing layer prevents groundwater from seeping through cracks. It also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of walls and floors. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative drainage system, which not all basements can be built.

So, the above methods for dealing with basement flooding will help get rid of excess water. Each has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. You need to choose a method based on your specific goals and financial capabilities.

Video: how to make drainage in the basement with your own hands

Good afternoon Please tell me how to fill the basement on your own. The house is 6 by 5, the height of the basement is about two meters, the house stands on strip foundation, one brick, the basement is damp. If necessary, I can send you a video of the basement. How much earth or clay do you need?

Alla, Moscow.

Hello, Alla from Moscow!

In each specific case, the operation of filling basements is approached according to the characteristics of the soil and the basement itself.

There are basements, which are rooms completely with concrete sides (floor, walls and ceiling with a hole for a hatch), some are brick, some are without a floor, just with dense earth on it. The water that enters the basement can also be different (ground, rain, from a broken water pipeline nearby, etc.).

In some cases, there is a need for drainage to remove water.

In practice, there was a case when the owner, for a number of reasons, did not fill the basement, but made a depression at its bottom, where incoming water and condensate from the surfaces of the basement were collected. A pump hose was lowered into the recess, which automatically turned on when a certain water level was present.

Without inspecting your basement under the house, I would not give definite recommendations.

However, if we list general principles operations on , then you should most likely do the following.

Filling can be done with many materials, for example - regular soil, that is, earth, sand, crushed stone, sand-gravel mixture, clay, rubble, construction waste, etc.

The use of crushed limestone should be avoided as it attracts moisture. /Let me explain that crushed limestone looks like white or yellowish stones of various sizes./

But in any case, over time, subsidence of the thickness of the backfilled material(s) cannot be ruled out. What I mean is that in a couple of years you will have to add some more sagging imported material on top. Otherwise there will be a hole at the backfill site.

Judging by your words, the basement is simply damp, and not an underground lake. Therefore, you can go with the simplest option.

First of all, if the basement floor is concrete screed, then you need to break several holes in it in different places. In case of water leaving when it possibly enters the former basement.

Then fill the entire volume of the basement with the material that you can get and bring.

I don't think you will make a concrete screed on top of the backfill; it is very effective, but too expensive. Therefore, you can simply put a layer of roofing felt on top of the backfill; this protects the subfloors of the house from evaporation of moisture from the soil and the settling of condensation on its lower surfaces with all the negative in the form of wood rotting.

And after a couple of years, check to see if there is water on the roofing material. If there is, then remove the roofing material, add soil to eliminate holes caused by subsidence of the backfilled materials, and lay the roofing material again.

Naturally, check the ventilation of the space under the floor through the vents.

By quantity required material see for yourself - a simple arithmetic calculation shows that the basement area is about 30 square meters and with a height of 2 meters, all this will amount to about 60 cubic meters of required material. That is, about 6 ten-ton KAMAZ trucks.

The material may be relatively cheap, but you will have to pay for its import. It’s difficult to say how much, how to negotiate with the drivers, but usually a ride starts from 2.5 thousand rubles and can reach 5 thousand or more.

It is most optimal when construction waste is removed from a site under construction nearby and the drivers do not have to drive the dump truck tens of kilometers to a landfill, but dump the contents of the body on your site. However, this is no longer relevant to the question you asked.

And transferring about 60 cubic meters is a cumbersome task; you will have to hire guest workers. Three or four Uzbeks or Tajiks can do this in two or three days; they are natural diggers. Russians, crests and Bulbash in no less than a week, but they rarely undertake this.

So all this will cost a pretty penny.

How else?

In any case - good luck!

Other questions on the topic of basements and underground areas.

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Can you see everyone?

Open circuit

So, in the basement there are:

Cold water supply;
Hot water supply;
Heating;
Sewerage.

HVS

Image	Description

Cold water bottling

Stopping the water meter

Solutions:

Welding or replacing the wedge;
Grinding of cheeks and mirrors;

Leaks in the water meter

Causes:

Solutions:

Cold water filling leak

Blockage or overgrowth of the riser

Solutions:

Inflator pump leaking

DHW

Low water temperature

High water temperature

Retaining washers Solutions:

Heating

Causes:

Clogged elevator nozzle;

Solutions:

Repair of shut-off valves;

Causes: Solutions:

Solutions:

Sewerage

Blocked riser

Clogged bed

Clogged outlet to the well

Leaks

Causes:

Destruction of the bell;

Solutions:

Conclusion

We hope that our material will help the reader to successfully solve most of the typical problems associated with the operation of utility networks in the basement of a residential building. As always, Additional information can be found in the video attached to the article. Good luck! => Network engineering in the basement: device and typical faults=> => publish => open => closed => => inzhenernye-seti-v-podvale-450 => => => 2017-10-25 21:19:10 => 2017-10-25 17:19 :10 => => 0 =>?p=6607 => 0 => post => => 0 => raw =>)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 6607 => 2 => 2017-10-25 21:19:10 => 2017-10-25 17:19:10 => Technical basement in an apartment building Today the reader and I are going to get acquainted with the utility networks of a typical apartment building, and find out how they work. We will also consider what problems they can create for residents, and how to solve these very problems. The article is aimed primarily at novice plumbers: most of the problems described should be solved not by the residents of the house, but by representatives of the organizations serving it. So, let's go.

Can you see everyone?

Let's start with a list of the networks and associated equipment located in the basement. But first, a small lyrical digression. For apartment buildings Soviet buildings typically have a centralized supply of heat and hot water. It can be implemented in two fundamentally different ways:

Closed heat supply scheme does not provide for water withdrawal from the heating circuit. Water for domestic hot water needs is heated in heat exchangers, where the heating system coolant gives it energy;

Heating station with DHW heat exchangers

Open circuit means that hot water is taken directly from the heating network through hot water taps in the elevator units.

Elevator unit. Black pipes - hot water supply connections The vast majority of Soviet-built buildings (and, accordingly, at least 80% of the currently in use housing stock) use open circuit heat supply. This is exactly what the author of the article is going to describe. So, in the basement there are:

Cold water supply;
Hot water supply;
Heating;
Sewerage.

In addition, in the basement there are two nodes that provide the house cold water(water meter) and thermal energy (elevator). Now let's move on to the device and network problems.

HVS

Here is a list of elements of the cold water supply system located in the basement:

Image	Description
Water meter with bypass line	A water metering unit responsible for turning off the cold water supply to the house and recording the water consumption of all residents. The water meter includes a water meter, shut-off valve elements before and after the meter, a sump or filter in front of the meter and a pressure gauge or control valve for connecting it. In addition, a bypass line can be installed in the water metering unit, which is used to supply water during repairs or verification of the meter. If the house has several cold water inlets from different sources, the water meter is additionally equipped with a check valve.
Cold water bottling	Bottling. It distributes water through water supply risers. Cold water filling is usually a dead end (the water in it moves only when it is dismantled by consumers) and has a diameter of 25-100 mm, depending on the number of connected water collection points. The lower filling points are equipped with relief valves for complete drainage during repair work.
Water supply risers	Risers distribute water to apartments. The diameter of the cold water risers is 20-40 mm. At each branch from the bottling to the riser, a tap or valve is installed to turn off the water supply and a plug or vent to drain the riser.
Water supply pump	Paging ( pumping station water supply) raises the water pressure to the required level to ensure its supply to the upper floors. Pumping can work around the clock, or be turned on (manually or by timer) during peak water withdrawal - in the morning and evening. A typical pumping device is an electric motor with a centrifugal pump mounted on a monolithic foundation.

Now let’s move on to the malfunctions and problems that may arise during the operation of the cold water system.

Stopping the water meter

Reasons: jamming of the impeller, wear of the mechanics. Solution: the meter is handed over for repair or replacement to representatives of the water supplying organization after drawing up a report on the malfunction of the device. During the absence of a water meter, water is supplied to the building through a bypass line or through a pipe installed in place of the device with the same diameter of the attached thread.

Malfunctions of the water meter fittings

Symptoms: the water supply to the house does not turn off or does not open. Causes:

Wear of the wedge between the cheeks of the valve (the cheeks fall below the counter mirrors in the body);

Wedge valve device

Overgrowth of cheeks or mirrors with lime deposits;
Falling cheeks due to wear of the wedge or rod.

Solutions:

Welding or replacing the wedge;
Grinding of cheeks and mirrors;

Valves disassembled for repair

If repair is impossible, replace the shut-off valves.

A caveat: if the valve after the water meter is faulty, it is enough to close the inlet valve to repair it. To repair the fittings at the entrance to the building, or bypass line, it is necessary to agree with the water supplier to disconnect a section of the main water supply.

Leaks in the water meter

Causes:

Malfunction of the control valve (wear or destruction of the gasket, destruction of the valve);
Development of the seal on the valves;

Oil seal leak on water meter valve

Destruction of the gasket connecting the water meter to the water meter pipes.

Solutions:

Replacing the gasket on the control valve;

Helpful: In the absence of a factory-made gasket, a replacement is cut from sheet rubber or an inner tube from a truck.

Replacing the control valve or its head;
Oil seal packing. To do this, it is enough to completely close the problem valve, unscrew a couple of nuts on the bolts or studs holding the gland and lift the gland;
The gasket under the meter is replaced with a similar one.

Cold water filling leak

Reason: steel pipe corrosion. Leaks occur primarily along the longitudinal electric weld and at the riser connections.

Fistula on a longitudinal seam Solution: depending on the degree of wear of the pipes - welding of individual fistulas, replacement of the bottling area or replacement of the entire bottling.

Overgrowing of the bottling with deposits

Symptoms: drop in water pressure throughout the entire house or in parts of the risers. As a rule, the upper floors are left without water during the morning and evening peaks.

Hint: measuring water pressure at peak water consumption will help localize the problem. Measurements are taken at the water meter and at the water supply risers; in the latter case, the pressure gauge is screwed in instead of the plug (if necessary, through an adapter with a change in thread diameter).

Measuring pressure in the water metering unit Solutions:

Chemical flushing of the entire water supply system or cold water bottling system (with blocked risers);

Result chemical washing pipeline

Cleaning the spill with sewer wire through a window cut out in the pipe;
Replacement of the entire bottling or a section of it.

Blockage or overgrowth of the riser

Symptoms: a drop in water pressure or its complete absence on a separate water supply riser. Causes:

The riser is clogged with scale weld or foreign objects (destroyed valve gasket, wooden chip, etc.);

Hint: blockages most often occur at pipe bends and under the screw valve seat.

Valve device. Debris accumulates under the seat on which the valve rests

Incorrect installation of the screw valve (water does not flow to the valve seat from below, but presses on the valve from above). Sooner or later, such an installation leads to the valve coming off, after which it completely or partially shuts off the water and can only be removed when the valve is opened;
Overgrowing of the riser area with lime or rust. The lumen of the pipe narrows, first of all, at its bends.

Solutions:

Blockages and deposits are cleared with a plumbing cable through an opened screw valve or after dismantling the valve and installing a drain after it;
If there is a large amount of dense deposits, the pipeline section must be replaced;
If the valve comes off, the valve needs to be replaced (of course, with its correct installation: the arrow on the body should be directed along the water flow).

Arrow points right direction water flow

Malfunctions of plug valves

Plug valves are relatively rarely installed on cold water risers, however, in terms of the number of problems they create, they are ahead of even rather capricious screw valves.

For valves with gland packing, a leak in the stem usually means that the seal has worn out. Sometimes a tightened oil seal nut solves the problem; much more often the seal has to be refilled. Since plug taps rarely turn off the water completely tightly, to fill the seal, you have to turn off the water in the entire house;
In tension taps, leaks can be eliminated by tightening the valve with a nut on the shank;

Cast Iron Tension Plug Valve

A freely rotating rod of a cast iron faucet means destruction of the rod shank in the body. The problem is resolved by replacing the tap.

A typical malfunction of taps with a thin stem is the destruction of its shank

Inflator pump leaking

Symptoms: Water flows down the pump shaft rod. Cause: worn out shaft seal.

Leakage on the booster pump oil seal Solution: packing the oil seal. It is performed after de-energizing the pump and turning off the water supply to it.

DHW

Some of the typical problems of hot water supply (malfunction of shut-off valves, bottling leaks, etc.) duplicate the problems of cold water supply that we have already described. At the same time, hot water supply taps and risers last longer due to the absence of condensate on them (and, accordingly, a much lower rate of steel corrosion) and a relatively small amount of deposits inside the pipes caused by differences in the composition of the water. A drop in pressure on the hot water supply can be caused by faulty shut-off valves, but not by overgrowing of pipelines.

On DHW steel pipes suffer less from corrosion and are not subject to the accumulation of deposits So, let's start with the list of elements of the hot water supply system.

Hot water taps into the elevator unit. There can be two of them (for dead-end hot water supply) or 4 (for circulating hot water supply);

Hint: buildings built after the mid-70s were and are equipped primarily with circulating hot water. Continuous circulation through looped risers and bottlings ensures instant delivery hot water to any point of its analysis and round-the-clock operation of heated towel rails.

Filling (for a circulation system - two fillings) of hot water supply;

Two hot pours are a sign of a hot water circulation system

Risers. In the circulation system they are connected by jumpers on top floor or in the attic in groups of 2 to 7 risers. Typically, jumpers connect the hot water risers of a separate apartment (in this case there are two of them - in the kitchen and in the bathroom) or the entire entrance.

Let's move on to the problems and their solutions.

Low water temperature

Reasons: turning on the domestic hot water supply from the return pipeline in the summer or in the off-season.

Reference: SP 30.13330.2012 limits the hot water temperature to the range of 60-75°C. At the same time, the heating network temperature graph of 150/70°C implies a return temperature of 40 degrees.

Temperature graph of the heating main Solution: turning on the hot water supply from the supply. At first heating season The shut-off valves at the taps into the return pipeline are reliably closed. In summer, the circulating DHW operates according to the “from supply to return” scheme.

High water temperature

Reasons: switching on DHW from the supply when the supply temperature exceeds 75°C. Solution: switching the water supply to the return pipeline.

Lack of circulation in the DHW system

Symptoms: cold heated towel rails and long heating of water when opening taps throughout the house. Causes:

At connecting DHW“from supply to supply” or “from return to return” - the absence of a retaining washer between the taps or its erosion by the flow of water;

Help: the retaining washer creates a pressure difference between the taps. The standard diameter of the hole in it is 1 mm larger than the diameter of the elevator nozzle.

Support washers

When turning on the hot water supply “from supply to return”, there is no pressure difference between the lines of the heating main. It is typical for the first days after the end of the heating season: the organization supplying heat forcibly turns off the heating, reducing its own costs for heating water;
Finally, the cause of the problem may be a malfunction of the shut-off valves on one of the inserts (for example, falling of the valve cheeks).

Solutions:

Installing or replacing the retaining washer. It should stand on the flange between the hot water taps in one thread;
If a shut-off valve malfunctions, it requires repair or replacement. Repair methods are described above in the "HVS" section;

Inspection of the DHW valve

If there is no pressure difference between the supply and return pipelines, the problem has no solution.

There is no circulation in the group of risers

Symptoms: cold heated towel rails and long heating of water on separate group risers. Reason: airing of the jumper between the risers on the top floor. Solution:

Close off one of the interconnected risers in the basement;
Go up this riser to any apartment;
Open the hot water tap on any mixer all the way. The air will escape through the faucet at the front of the water flow;
Start the riser in normal mode.

If there is a dumper on one of the connected risers instead of a plug, you can restart the group from the basement without going up to the apartment.

Discharge tank on the hot water riser In addition: the air can be released through the Mayevsky tap installed on the jumper in the apartment on the top floor.

Heating

First, a few words about the design of the heating system of an apartment building. The heart that provides warmth to the home elevator unit- water jet elevator. A stream of hot water from the supply is injected into its mixing chamber through a nozzle. It draws part of the coolant from the return pipeline into a repeated circulation cycle. Thus, it is possible to circulate a large volume of water through the heating system when it is minimum consumption from the supply pipeline.

Elevator device

Hint: the larger the volume of circulating water, the smaller the temperature difference between the beginning and end of the heating circuit, the more evenly the radiators in the apartments are heated.

Two heating dispensers - supply and return - are connected to each other by risers. In the case of lower filling (when the supply and return are separated in the basement), the risers are connected in pairs by jumpers on the upper floor.

Bottom filling: both heating lines are separated in the basement. Upper filling (supply is distributed in the attic, return in the basement) means that the risers are not connected to each other.

Top pouring: heating supply in the attic Now let's move on to typical problems heating systems.

No circulation in the heating system

Causes:

Malfunction of shut-off valves in the elevator unit;
Clogged elevator nozzle;
Airing the top filling system;

Hint: upon startup, all the air from the previously vented circuit is forced out into the supply outlet and the expansion tank installed at its upper point. If the supply outlet is filled with air, circulation in the heating system is not possible.

Expansion tank with vent in the attic of a house with top filling

No pressure drop in the heating main.

Solutions:

Repair of shut-off valves;
Dismantling the elevator and cleaning the nozzle;
Bleeding air through the vent on expansion tank serving bottling;
In the latter case, the heat supplier is notified of the problem.

Nuance: when negative temperatures stopping circulation for more than an hour leads to defrosting of the access heating.

Defrosted radiator of the entrance heating If the work to restore circulation is delayed, the heating risers of the entrances in the system with bottom filling must be turned off and reset with the obligatory opening of the vents. Air leakage will prevent water from hanging in risers and batteries.

Air vent on driveway heating In a house with top filling, it is easier to reset the entire heating system: starting it will take much less time than starting individual risers.

No circulation in the riser or group of risers

Causes:

Airing the jumper between the risers in a house with bottom filling;
Airing part of the upper filling (thanks to the sloping gasket, the supply filling is partially filled with air);
Malfunction of shut-off valves.

Solutions:

In the lower filling risers connected in pairs, to restore circulation, you need to bleed air through the Mayevsky tap on the top floor. In the event that one of the connected risers is idle (circulation, without any heating devices), it can be passed through a vent installed instead of a plug;

The vent allows you to bypass the riser from the basement

In a system with top filling, it is enough to bleed the air through the vent on the expansion tank;
We have previously described methods for repairing valves and taps.

Low heating return temperature

Symptoms: the temperature of the coolant in the return pipeline is lower than that prescribed by the temperature chart.

The malfunction causes a flood of complaints about the cold in apartments. Reasons:

Not fully open shut-off valves (including inlet valves of the elevator unit);
Malfunction of shut-off valves (in particular, falling of the valve cheeks);
Reduced elevator nozzle diameter. In new buildings it is selected based on calculations heating system, which often do not take into account secondary factors (replacement of heating devices by residents with more efficient ones, broken glazing in entrances, etc.).

Solutions:

Valves and taps in the elevator open completely;

The shut-off valve must be fully open

Faulty fittings are repaired or replaced;
The nozzle is drilled to required diameter after agreement with the supplier thermal energy organization. If the diameter is selected experimentally, it should be increased by 0.5 mm at a time. A control measurement of the return temperature is carried out one day after installing the nozzle, upon completion of stabilization of the temperature regime.

Elevator with dismantled nozzle

High heating return temperature

Symptoms: the return temperature is higher than that prescribed by the temperature schedule.

Hint: for thermal engineers this means excessive heat consumption and extra costs with constant profit.

Reason: oversized elevator nozzle diameter or nozzle erosion. Solution: welding the nozzle and then drilling it to a new design diameter. At the peak of cold weather, dismantling the nozzle is dangerous for obvious reasons: it requires a long stop in circulation. In this case, two solutions are possible:

Temporary launch of the elevator unit without a nozzle and with the elevator suction plugged by a steel pancake;

The photo shows an elevator temporarily running without a nozzle

Reducing the pressure difference between supply and return using shut-off valves. The inlet or intermediate valve or return valve is closed with control of the return pressure and periodic temperature measurements. At one time, the difference should be reduced by no more than 0.5 kgf/cm2.

Sewerage

The following elements of the sewage system are located in the basement:

Risers with revisions for cleaning;

Sewer riser

Lezhnevki are horizontal branches that collect the drains of several risers and transport them to the outlets of the wells. Straight sections of the bedstead are equipped with oblique tees or revisions every 12-15 meters;
Outlets to wells with tees for cleaning.

Blocked riser

Symptoms: the drains from the upper apartments enter the apartment on the lower floor through the toilet, bathtub and sinks (if the connection between the sinks and the sewer is leaky, through the sockets of the latter).

Blocked riser: all the drains from the neighbors above enter the apartment. Reasons:

Fat deposits at the connection of the riser with the bed, or in the bed itself;
Silting of the litter box or accumulation of sand, cat litter, etc.;
Foreign objects entering the sewer system (rags, bottles thrown into the ventilation outlet on the roof, large food waste, construction waste).

Solution: cleaning the riser and bed with a cable or wire through the inspection. After cleaning the grease plug, the bed should be rinsed with plenty of hot water.

Clearing clogged drains

Clogged bed

Symptoms: sewage floods several apartments on the lower floors. As an option, the wastewater enters the basement through the open socket of the tee on the bench.

The basement is flooded with domestic waste. The causes and solution to the problem in this case are identical to those described above. A caveat: if possible, the blockage should be cleared through the inspection located above it along the drain. Otherwise, at the time of cleaning, you may be doused with sewage: they will begin to flow to the opened audit with a pressure of 2-3 meters.

Clogged outlet to the well

Symptoms: wastewater do not enter the yard sewer well, flooding apartments or basements. Solution: cleaning the outlet through the tee in the basement.

Tee before release You can clean the outlet from the well side only by feeding wire to the blockage from the surface, through an L-shaped pipe with a diameter of 32-40 mm. There are two reasons for this:

When the blockage is cleared, the wastewater will flow into the well with a pressure of several meters. It is very difficult to dodge the fetid stream in a confined space;
Methane often accumulates in yard sewer wells. It is not toxic in itself, but it displaces breathable air. Loss of consciousness due to oxygen deficiency at a well depth of 2 meters or more means certain death.

Leaks

Causes:

Chasing the bell cast iron sewer;

Leaking caulked socket

Destruction of the bell;
Destruction of a section of a riser or bed.

Solutions:

Not having mechanical damage the bell joint is sealed (embossed) with a heel or graphite gland;
The destroyed bell is cut out with a grinder and replaced with an assembly of a coupling and a compensating pipe;
Any straight section of the sewer system can be repaired using the same method.

Sewerage repair using a compensating pipe

Conclusion

Construction Materials

Peter Kravets

Reading time: 3 minutes

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In the basements of houses, flooring is often used regardless of the foundation. The cold usually comes to the floors of the first floor either from the ground or from the space above it, usually the basement.

Floors are called floating. When installing them, the supporting frame of the floor and partitions is placed on a special colonnade or a longitudinal lining.

But in the cold season, the basement and subfloor must be insulated, especially if the house is made of wood. When there is strong wind outside, it penetrates the house and passes between the boards, creating drafts.

How to fill a basement under a house without making the situation worse? When insulating the subfloor, there is some contradiction in the very essence of the work: on the one hand, insulation is necessary, on the other, ventilation.

If air circulation is not provided, the wood may succumb to putrefactive processes and begin to become moldy. The first step is to install windows for ventilation of the house and insulate the basement, if there is one.

Basement ventilation system in a wooden house

In rooms where constant ventilation is provided, moisture does not linger, settling on the surfaces of that part of the building where it is limited or carried out in insufficient quantities. Wood is very moisture-absorbing, which leads to its rapid destruction.

Important! Floors in wooden house need ventilation. If this is not done, then the entire underground will very quickly become damp and rot, and boards may fail during use.

The main thing that needs to be done immediately when laying the foundation is to leave space for future ventilation grilles; in a wooden house they are also made of wood.

If the foundation is made of cinder blocks, then the grate is placed in place of one of the blocks. If the foundation is made using the pouring method, then when pouring concrete into the formwork it is necessary to make room for the partition of the ventilation window.

According to the number of grates required, it is necessary to equip at least 2 for the entire basement, and they should be located opposite each other to facilitate the passage of air flows.

Humidity provokes the development of microorganisms and fungal spores, which are most dangerous to human health. Air with spores passing through respiratory system, settles on the mucous membranes of the nasopharynx and can cause many diseases from mild to nervous exhaustion.

To improve the ventilation of the subfloor of a country house, you need to:

Take care of windows summer time you should check them as often as possible for growing weeds and debris that could block air access;
From inside the basement, it is necessary to arrange the placed equipment and the interior of the basement so that they do not stand in the way air masses from the window;
In the cold season, when there is frost, it is necessary to block access fresh air to avoid cold inside the house.

The traction can be increased by installing new holes in the foundation, drilled with diamond attachments of the drilling apparatus. You can use the help of specialized companies engaged in such drilling.

You can also strengthen the hood by installing fans on the subfloor grates, possibly with automatic adjustment inclusions. Switching modes can be done at certain time intervals by setting up programmable sensors.

For a very damp room, it is enough to ventilate for half an hour for 5 hours.

Backfilling the underground room

Before filling and insulating the subfloor in a wooden house, you need to select the material that will be used to fill the free space. Need to pay attention Special attention basement ventilation, because thermal insulation impairs air exchange.

Expanded clay

Most often, the subfloor is covered with expanded clay and baked clay. This is very lightweight material, which is very convenient to work with.

Backfilling of the subfloor is done subject to the following mandatory rules:

In order for ventilation to be ensured at least at a minimum level, 20-50 mm must be left between the backfilled layer and the floor;
The thickness of the backfilled layer should not block the ventilation holes;
Expanded clay is dried before falling asleep, since the concentration of moisture can cause rotting of the floor boards.

Wood chip mixture

The subfloor can be filled with a mixture of wood shavings and foam. When it hardens, it fills the entire space and practically guarantees thorough protection from negative impact cold air and moisture.

But in case wooden house This mixture cannot be used. The thing is that the installation method involves high pressure, which can undermine the foundation of the floor.

Mineral wool

Insulation in some cases is done when using mineral wool. Unlike its analogues, glass wool, for example, contains mineral material includes a much smaller number of small particles that are so dangerous to human health.

The installation method inside the subfloor eliminates possible contact of particles with humans, which is certainly environmentally friendly.

The method of fastening is very simple - waterproofing is attached to the subfloor as the first layer, usually using construction stapler. As soon as protective material secured, installation of mineral wool begins.

It is secured with special bolts with a large head diameter to prevent damage or rupture of the material.

With the help of such multi-layering, reliable protection from drafts is achieved, in addition, this material is classified as environmentally friendly and heat-retaining.

Expanded polystyrene

Floor protection using polystyrene foam is very effective, without compromising subfloor ventilation. It can also be used in wooden buildings.

As a material in itself, polystyrene foam is considered waterproof, so when installing it, a layer of waterproofing is not required.

The only one weak point For such arrangement, only the joints of the material are considered. It is necessary to further strengthen the protection of load-bearing beams.

Expanded polystyrene is very easy to use, the material is quite light, but dense, unlike its analogues - cotton wool various designs. The cost of polystyrene foam is relatively low and the existing variety of similar protective materials is available.

Necessary underground maintenance

Autumn

With the onset of cold weather, wooden ventilation grates will not be able to keep insects and small rodents in their search for warm places for wintering. In order to prevent unauthorized access of livestock to the premises, a metal mesh is attached to the grilles.

You can cut it yourself with scissors, adjusting the size, and fix it with self-tapping screws to a wooden frame. You can use dowels instead of self-tapping screws, and then attach them to a concrete base.

Spring

Spring floods cause many problems ventilation system. Melt water spreads wherever possible, and in most cases accumulates near the walls of the building, penetrating into the basement.

Many may think that a house with a basement is perfect solution many problems related to finding a place to store things. However, not all owners of houses with a basement are happy about its presence, because they constantly have to think about how it will begin to bloom and appear. bad smell. The thing is that basements are often flooded with water during periods of active snow melting and prolonged rains.

High humidity in the basement creates optimal conditions for the development of fungi and mold, which quickly colonize all the walls and ceiling of the room. Over time, the water begins to stagnate and a pungent odor appears, which can make living in the house impossible. A large number of Mold and mildew, combined with a musty odor, pose a serious threat to the lives of people living in the house. These are not all the troubles that lurk in the flooding of a premises, because property left in the basement for storage is often damaged.

All problems associated with them stem from their improper arrangement, since in some areas where groundwater is close to the surface, building houses with basements is strongly discouraged. Many owners of private houses deliberately do not pay attention to the recommendations of professionals, and after a long struggle with groundwater, they still decide to backfill the cellar, which causes so many troubles.

Correctly filling a cellar in a house is just as difficult as digging it correctly; it is especially difficult to bury a cellar located under the house, since in this case it is necessary to make drainage, select a soil composition that will subsequently allow water to pass through it so that moisture does not accumulate in the basement, but went back into the soil.

In addition, the soil composition must be laid correctly so that it does not sag in the future and does not push water to the surface.

To fill the basement you can use:

non-heaving soils;
river sand;
construction scrap;
clay;
expanded clay;
crushed stone

If water stands in the basement throughout the year, it is better to fill the cellar with layers of bulk materials, having previously made drainage. Moreover, in some cases the best option The basement will be filled with concrete. In this case you can get reliable protection from flooding of the house, but this method is not only the highest quality solution to the problem, but also the most expensive, since usually the cellars located under the house have a fairly large volume, which means a lot of mixture will be needed. When using concrete, there is no need for drainage.

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Correct selection of material for filling the basement

So, first you need to decide what to fill the cellar with in a particular case. If it is not filled with water in the spring, and its backfilling is required due to the danger of its collapse, you can fill its lower part with any soil, and the upper part with crushed stone. Such cases are rare, so this option is not suitable for all owners of houses with a basement.

If every spring there is slight flooding of the basement, that is, water fills approximately 20-30 cm, it is best to use fine river sand. In this case, the process of filling the basement with material can last 2-3 years, since it will not be possible to compact the sand well without dismantling the ceiling, which means that when flooding this material will sag, so it will have to be added for several seasons. Sand is great option when in the basement there is no concrete stitch on the floor, but simply made wooden floor. If backfilled correctly, the sand will only get wet up to the middle of the basement, and the ceiling of the backfilled room will always remain dry.

If every spring the cellar is flooded right up to the ceiling, it will not be possible to fill the basement with sand, since the sand will get wet completely, which will eventually lead to the destruction of the ceiling and subfloor on the first floor of the house. In addition, there is a high probability that the basement will not dry out throughout the year. In this case, it is necessary to use a mixture of broken construction waste, that is broken bricks, crushed stones, as well as sand. These materials must be laid in layers. The first layer is made from construction waste, sand is poured on top of it. It is very important that near the surface, that is, at the surface itself, there is again a layer of broken construction waste.

If the basement is being filled in an area where there is constant groundwater, it is best to fill it with layers of clay and sand. The first layer is clay, and the last layer should be sand. A layer made of river sand and expanded clay, but this method of cellar disposal is quite expensive. When used, a foundation is formed under the house that does not allow moisture to pass through.

If desired, you can also fill the basement, in which water accumulates every spring, with sandy soil removed during the construction of the foundation at another construction site. In this case, it is important that the soil is not heaving. In addition, when filling it, it is necessary to form drainage system so that water is removed from the basement. If you don’t want to touch the basement in the future and constantly add settling bulk material, you must first fill and compact a layer of sand, on top of it a layer of crushed stone, and so that it is as close as possible to the surface of the basement. Using a vibrating plate, it is necessary to compact the layers as much as possible. The last layer Concrete is poured through the pipe. For this method of basement disposal, it will be necessary to make several passes in order to fill maximum amount concrete. After the concrete has hardened, you can forget about the problem of filling the basement forever.