Drawing of a cesspool for a private house. DIY cesspool

After building a house, the second most important issue is the construction of a cesspool. City residents do not think about wastewater disposal, but for living in private house it is important. How less problems with functioning sewer system, the more comfortable the stay. The design of the cesspool is very simple and when used good materials will last a long time. The main thing is to correctly calculate the required volume.

Rules for constructing a cesspool

Before constructing a sewer, you need to choose a location. Please note that it cannot be placed close to the house, and the pipes should not be excessively long. The sewage disposal truck needs free access to remove waste.

The distance from the cesspool to other objects on the site is regulated by rules and regulations.

Basic rules of the device:

• The distance from a private house to the sewer is at least 5 m.
• The distance from groundwater to the bottom of the pit is at least 1 m.
• The distance from the fence to the edge of the sewer is at least 1 m.
• Distance to sources drinking water at different types soils: clayey - from 20 m, sandy loam - from 50 m, loam - from 30 m.

By correctly determining the volume of the cesspool, you will ensure its long service life. When making calculations, proceed from 0.5 m 3 per person. But these figures do not take into account the characteristics of the soil. The absorption rate of clay soil is low. Therefore, for the first year, the sewerage system will normally cope with waste products. But the more the soil is saturated different substances, filtration capabilities will deteriorate.

For better functioning make a cesspool with a reserve(for 3 people 6 m3). This will increase the service life and save money on calling a sewer truck.

After determining the required volume, pipes are laid. The slope should be 2-3 cm per meter. The longer the length, the less the slope.

Types of cesspool

Exist the following types cesspool designs:

• Superficial.
• Underground.
• Sealed.

Superficial

In private suburban areas, surface cesspools are rarely used. This is due building codes, according to which located on the surface sewerage structure, must be built with depth. And the pipes are laid above the ground, which is not very convenient. But if high level If groundwater does not allow you to build an underground cesspool, then this is a good way out of the situation.

Brick, concrete and plastic containers are used for construction. The use of wood is not justified due to rotting, difficulty in assembly and hygroscopicity. Most economically profitable solution In terms of price, durability, quality, brick is.

The location on the site is selected individually, based on the terrain, soil type, location of buildings and water sources. The distance to residential buildings is at least 15 m. Take into account the houses in neighboring areas. There should be at least 1 m to the site boundary, which is quite enough for pumping out with a sewer truck.

On the surface of the cesspool a filtration trench is provided to drain liquid. It should not pass close to water sources.

The design of a surface pit consists of walls, a bottom, barriers and a concrete cover designed for pumping and controlling the level of wastewater. The volume is determined based on the number of residents. Optimal size- 3 m 3, this is exactly how much a sewer truck can remove in one go.

A surface cesspool can be two- or one-section. In the latter option, the liquid accumulates to a certain level and is then removed by car. An option with two reservoirs diverts part of the liquid into a special drainage ditch.

The walls need to be treated special materials to prevent the flow of sewage. The main line is supplied through a pipe on one side, and on the other, a drainage line is connected. Such a pit is equipped with ventilation.

The operation scheme is simple. Through the pipeline, wastewater is supplied to the tank. They accumulate up to the dividing partition and settle. The liquid in the septic tank is cleared of fractions and discharged through drainage into a special trench.

The surface pit is designed to work in the warm season, maintenance occurs during the same period. Periodically it is necessary to check the fluid level and add bacteria, which are designed for sewers. They process waste and bad smell. Before cold weather, the septic tank is pumped out, otherwise the structure may crack due to freezing. After winter period, the septic tank is checked for damage and repaired if necessary. The same applies to the pipeline.

Underground

The least energy-consuming option for a cesspool for a private home. This is a small building that collects sewage in a natural way. They are also called absorbent.

Sanitary standards prohibit the operation of sewer storage tanks without an impenetrable bottom. But there are exceptions, when the amount of waste does not exceed 1 m 3 per day, it is allowed to use a pit with a leaky bottom.

Advantages:

• Low construction cost.
• Quick installation.
• Easy maintenance.

Flaws:

• Limited volume.
• Ecological threat.
• Unpleasant smell.

The device is very simple. The dug hole is reinforced with bricks, concrete rings and boards. Before starting construction, find out the groundwater level. It is necessary to optimize the cleaning process Wastewater through the soil. The distance from groundwater to the bottom of the pit is at least 1 m.

Installation begins after digging a trench for sewer pipes. Its width should not exceed 2 m.

The upper part of the pit is closed with a lid with a hatch. Corrosion-resistant materials are used during construction. The structure must be equipped with a ventilation pipe. Air speeds up the processing process solid waste and removes gas.

The layer of soil above the top cover should not be more than 50 cm. Since the pit must be cleaned periodically from solid residues that have not undergone filtration. If you do not carry out this procedure, the bottom will quickly become covered with silt and you will need to use a sewer truck.

Ring cesspool

cesspool from concrete rings, a very popular solution for country house.

Advantages:

Stages of installation of a cesspool made of rings:

1. A hole large enough for concrete rings is dug.
2. The bottom is filled with concrete mortar. The proportions of crushed stone to cement are 6:1. The solution should harden within 7 days. If filling occurs in hot weather, That the concrete surface must be wetted periodically, otherwise cracks will appear and the required strength will not be available.
3. After the concrete has hardened, we begin installing the rings. Without crane there's no way around it. Some sellers provide a rental service for lifting equipment. The rings are carefully lowered onto the concrete bottom. After installation, the seams are insulated using sealants (liquid glass, rubber-based seals). It is best to use liquid glass by mixing it with cement mortar and applying it to the joints between the rings. Internal insulation is quite sufficient, but if your site has a high groundwater level, then you need to carry out an operation with outside. For ease of installation, buy rings that have a “lock”. When using conventional ones, the structure will have to be fastened with metal brackets.
4. Mounted on the top of the ring concrete floor with a hole for the hatch.

The easiest way creating a sewer system in a private house.

Installation stages.

Installation requirements.

• The container should be placed in such a way that there are no turns or bends in the waste pipes.
• If pipe turns cannot be avoided, do them at right angles.
• The depth of the pipes is 1-1.5 m to avoid freezing.
• If the groundwater level is high, a plastic container is installed in a concrete well.

Septic tank for sewerage

To build a septic tank, you need to dig an additional hole, which will be deeper than the first one. Reinforced concrete rings are installed on the concrete bottom. In the top ring a hole is made for the pipe, through which liquid is poured from one container to another. Pipes are installed depending on the depth of soil freezing.

For septic tank operation use special biological products that process wastewater. Filtered water from the septic tank is transferred to the main pit, from which it flows into the ground. The slope of the pipes during installation is 15 degrees, the width is 15 cm. The trench is dug after a control descent to ensure proper operation systems.

Responsibility

When constructing a cesspool must fully comply with the rules and regulations for this type of structure. If any sewerage element is installed incorrectly, leakage and contamination of the area, as well as the water source, may occur. For causing serious damage, liability is provided, including criminal liability.

Regardless of the type of cesspool, it development should be carried out by a specialist, who will not only take into account all factors, but will also ensure that all construction specifications are met during the construction process. This is the only way to be sure that the sewage system is environmentally friendly and will last a long time.

Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can select suitable option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
• sealed cesspool - for large quantity drains;
• septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use a drainage pit. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting environment much smaller than a conventional latrine with a pit. Ready-made systems are sold that just need to be buried on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ not required large territory for organizing the filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;
– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;
– optional equipment– to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a location on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, you don’t have to bury it completely in the ground by insulating it aboveground part to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and general dimensions pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and create a bed.



2. The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight or sharp angles.
3. It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. A sand and gravel cushion is made on clay soil. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and compacted, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a 5 cm fraction is poured. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.



4. All other formwork is done on top of the cushion. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the other side is the ground.



5. A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is located above the freezing point of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
6. A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
7. You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of regular washing powder to each bucket of water.



8. Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones is poured into the formwork different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.



9. Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated sheets for formwork. It is laid so that it extends halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
10. A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. The second is inserted ventilation tube with a diameter of 50 mm.





11. A minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured, with the obligatory addition of stone and bayoneting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

How to make a simple cesspool is explained step by step in the video:

Every owner of a country house is faced with the issue of organizing the disposal of sewage and waste.

It is impossible to install a sewer system here, as in urban conditions. The best solution there will be a cesspool.

Previously, to construct a cesspool, people dug a large well, the bottom and walls of which were lined with a thick layer of clay, which protected the soil and groundwater from mixing with wastewater.

But, you see, we are talking about a rather labor-intensive process.

Today no one uses this method of sewerage arrangement.

There are new technologies that make the task easier and more efficient.

It cannot be said that the cesspool is installed in the place where the owner of the house wishes. When deciding where to dig a cesspool, you must be guided by special documents and sanitary standards, and they say the following:

• the distance from the cesspool to a residential building should not be less than 12 meters;
• the distance from the cesspool to the fence should be more than 1 meter;
• distance from the cesspool to wells or wells with drinking water cannot be less than 5 meters.

But these are not all the points that should be taken into account when choosing appropriate place. You need to understand that you cannot place a hole near a garden or vegetable garden. It is also necessary to provide easy access to it so that a vehicle can drive up to pump out the contents.

How to calculate the volume of a cesspool

In order for you not to have to call a sewer truck too often to clean the cesspool, you need to correctly calculate its optimal volume. It will depend on the number of people living in the house. For a family of 3-4 people, the average monthly runoff volume is usually 12-13 cubic meters. Based on this, it can be determined that for such a number of people the minimum volume of a cesspool should be 18-20 cubic meters. Simply put, the minimum reserve volume of a cesspool is 40% of the monthly flow. But such a reserve can be made only in cases where the soil allows water to pass through well. If on your summer cottage clay soil, the pit volume reserve should be larger.

Materials for cesspool

There are several types of materials that are used to construct cesspools, preventing wastewater from entering the soil and groundwater. From these you will need to choose the most suitable one:

• brick, concrete blocks, stone - today they are used very rarely, because installation requires a lot of labor and a lot of time;
• reinforced concrete rings - they are often used in the construction of cesspools;
• metal and plastic barrels– their average volume is 200 liters. This wave is enough for small family. Plastic containers are more in demand because they do not corrode.

DIY cesspool in a private house

What kind of material to use for arranging a cesspool, each person decides independently, first assessing the durability future design, and financial expenses, ease of installation.

Cesspool made of concrete rings: diagram and design

Concrete rings are quite popular today among owners of private country houses. This is not surprising, because they have many significant advantages over other methods:

• durability of the structure - the service life of such products reaches 100 years;
• concrete withstands the fermentation and decay processes that constantly occur in a cesspool and are dangerous to the soil;
• ease of installation of the structure, which makes it possible to reduce the time spent on arranging a cesspool;
• effective protection of soil and groundwater from pollution.

Considering the high popularity of concrete rings, let’s take a closer look at their use in sewerage installations.

The rings themselves are products made of high-strength concrete. Inside them there is a reinforcing metal grid, providing additional strength. The good thing about rings is that through them water will definitely not be able to penetrate into the soil and groundwater, contributing to their pollution. The only point that you should pay attention to when arranging such a cesspool is the joints between the concrete rings. They must be well treated with a special water-repellent cement mortar.

As for the disadvantages, in this case there is only one - the large weight of the products obliges you to resort to the help of special equipment. But, if you look at this need from the other side, then on the contrary, by using special equipment, you can get the job done much faster.

Important! When considering the installation of a cesspool in a private house, Special attention it is necessary to devote it to the bottom so that through it the runoff cannot enter the groundwater. You can arrange the bottom in one of the following ways:

• prepare the bottom of the hole by filling it with sand, gravel or crushed stone. Next, install a special frame from metal fittings, then fill the bottom with concrete mortar to a height of 20-25 cm. This method is quite cheap. But its disadvantage is that concrete mortar it will take quite a long time to dry completely;
• buy a ready-made bottom - it is made in the same factories as the concrete rings themselves. Accordingly, the cost of this method of arranging the bottom of the pit will be higher, and installation will have to be carried out using special equipment. The advantages include the minimum amount of time required to solve this problem.

Now we will consider in detail the installation of a cesspool made of concrete rings. The work is not particularly difficult, but must be performed in strict accordance with existing technology:

1. you need to dig a hole corresponding in volume to the number of people living in the house, and in diameter - in accordance with the size of the concrete rings;
2. You can start arranging the bottom. If you prefer cement mortar, then you should take care of its proper preparation. The ratio of cement and crushed stone will be 1:6. The solution will take a week to harden. If you are building a cesspool in the summer, the concrete should be periodically moistened with water. This way you can prevent the appearance of cracks on its surface;
3. lowering the rings. This is done using a special crane, because the products are heavy. After you lower the first ring into the hole, immediately seal its joint with the bottom. This is best done using liquid glass, which is added to cement mortar. After the mixture is well mixed, it can be used to treat the seams. Note! If there is a high groundwater level in the area, it is better to treat the seams not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the structure. This way you will be completely sure that wastewater will not get into the ground. After lowering the next ring, its joint with the previous one should be processed in the same way. It is best to use concrete rings with a special “lock”, which will ensure their strong fastening. If this is not the case, then the products must be fastened with metal staples;
4. the final stage is the installation of the well cover, which can be purchased at the same factory where the rings are made. The cover is mounted using a tap. It is equipped with a special hatch and ventilation holes.

We looked at how to make a cesspool from concrete rings - there is nothing complicated here, the work can be done with your own hands, without the help of specialists.

In addition to the main workflow, there will be some other points that may raise questions for you. For example, in which part of the cesspool should you connect drain pipe How to do this so that the sewage system works properly. To get an answer to your question, study diagram of a cesspool in a private house, located above. A thematic video is also offered here, which shows each stage of installation and arrangement of the structure. Some people draw up cesspool plans on their own, using previously studied information.

Sealed cesspool: diagram and device

There is another method of arranging a cesspool. It is considered the simplest and quite affordable. We are talking about special containers - plastic tanks, which are produced by factories already in finished form. They have some advantages over concrete rings:

• light weight;
• ease of installation;
• tightness.

To equip a cesspool in this way, you do not need to perform many labor-intensive steps. You just need to dig a hole of the required volume and shape so that the tank can be placed there, then prepare it for installation by arranging a special concrete pad. Its surface must be smooth. Next, the pillow will need to be covered with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, after which you can begin lowering plastic container into the pit. Once the tank is installed, all that remains is to connect the waste pipes. After this, the pit is filled with concrete-sand mixture (1:5), upper layer made from soil. The cesspool is ready for use.

We looked at several options for how to make a cesspool with your own hands. To choose one that is most suitable, you need to first evaluate your financial capabilities, as well as your skills, if you do not resort to the help of professionals. Of course, setting up a cesspool using a plastic tank will be the simplest, which is why most owners of country houses give their preference to this option.

For city residents, communal amenities are familiar and natural. It’s a different matter for suburban housing, in which most of the amenities need to be built on your own. And sewerage is practically in first place here. In rare cases, at a summer cottage it can be connected to centralized networks. There are also quite a few autonomous methods - a cesspool, storage tanks, various septic tanks. The choice of drainage methods today is huge, but each of them has its own characteristics.

DIY cesspool - cheap and practical!

No one will argue that affordable development is the most attractive for budget real estate, because you can save a lot of money on it. With regard to autonomous sewerage, this principle is also perfectly applicable, because you can make a cesspool with your own hands.

The cesspool has been known since ancient times. Previously, its walls were coated with clay, reinforced with wooden stops, and the upper part was made like a small cabin from boards or whatever. The principle of its operation has remained virtually unchanged, but the design of modern analogues has become more technologically advanced. With the advent of new insulating materials, reinforced concrete, filtration methods and soil purification, the pit is no longer considered such a primitive device.

If we take into account all the costs of its construction, then we can say with confidence: a drainage pit is one of the cheapest and available ways autonomous sewerage system suburban area, which can be done without the help of specialists on your own.

Cesspool - device features

The most common design of a cesspool, which serves as a sewer sump, is a separate outbuilding used locally, i.e. not connected to anything. The main part of it is located underground, and on the surface there are plumbing fixtures that function due to it (toilet, shower, etc.).

With the advent of pipes made of corrosion-resistant materials such as PVC and HDPE, it became possible to connect a cesspool directly to a private house in which the main plumbing fixtures are located. In this way you can make a gravity autonomous sewerage in the country.

Structurally, a cesspool can be of several types:

Important!
The use of an aeration tank in a settling tank will be quite effective if a colony of bacteria is placed in the pit, accelerating the process of oxidation and processing of organic matter and providing them with access to oxygen. In this case, soil post-treatment with filtration layers will also work more efficiently, since the processed wastewater becomes clarified and liquid, which means it penetrates into the soil more easily.

Basic requirements for the construction of cesspools

Despite the promising prospects, such a device must be carefully calculated and designed. How to do this and why is it needed?

The placement and arrangement of external autonomous sewerage networks is regulated by SanPin and SNiP standards. Failure to comply with these standards entails administrative responsibility from the sanitary and epidemiological inspection. This is done primarily so that reliable environmental protection can be provided to the soil and groundwater from harmful runoff and waste discharged into the sewer system.

The remoteness of cesspools on a site is also significant for fences, trees, outbuildings, pipelines and open reservoirs, water tanks. Each of these elements has its own standards. minimum distance that must be followed.

The location of the bottom of the pit should be at least 1 meter above the groundwater level. At the same time, its depth should not exceed 3 m, since in this case it will be difficult to clear it of wastewater, and siltation of the bottom will be inevitable.

The minimum slope of a gravity sewer must be at least 5°. When accompanied by wastewater emissions, this value may be slightly lower. The diameter of the sewer pipe must be chosen at least 100-150mm to avoid blockages.

Cesspool - calculation of parameters

The number of consumers and plumbing fixtures in a summer cottage may vary, so it is necessary to calculate the volume of the cesspool capacity.

The calculation formula for sealed containers with forced sewage disposal is as follows:
Vholes = Qdn. * Qperson* Vperson * 0.001, where:
Vpits – the required volume of the cesspool, (cub.m.);
Qday – interval for cleaning the sedimentation tank with a sewage disposal machine;
Qperson – total number of consumers;
Vperson – volume of consumed water discharged into the pit (person/day).

To calculate other options for cesspools equipped with soil filtration and aeration tanks or settling tanks, other calculation formulas are used. For various models these septic tanks design parameters are offered ready-made by manufacturers.

Photo: diagram of the septic tank on the site

Cesspool - manufacturing technology at a summer cottage

A typical scheme for arranging a cesspool consists of the following steps:

• Determining the location of the pit, linking it to plumbing fixtures– after calculations and choice of structure, the pit must be determined by its location on the site, taking into account all the rules and regulations of the construction industry;
• Earthen and preparatory work - this stage is one of the most labor-intensive and costly that will have to be done to build a pit. Especially for several containers that occupy a large area, it is worth resorting to the help of special equipment for digging a pit. Clearing the building site and sand and gravel preparation are also very important for reliable development;
• Installing or making a pit container– this stage can be divided into 2 parts, which differ depending on its design. If we are talking about ready-made one or more containers, they only require assembly and installation. In the case of making all parts of the sump with your own hands from reinforced concrete, bricks or ready-made reinforced concrete rings, its construction begins with preparing the bottom and sealing the walls of the pit. Followed by technological process erecting a pit container, placing formwork from boards or OSB, pouring concrete or masonry, the final stage of which will be the installation of a floor slab with an outlet for a plumbing fixture, inspection hatch or a ventilation vent, which you can make yourself;
• Installation of plumbing fixtures- the final stage of construction, which determines the functionality of the cesspool.

With a sufficient amount of knowledge, such an event as a do-it-yourself cesspool is not such a big deal. difficult task, which can be mastered without outside help, and provide yourself and your loved ones with a comfortable stay at your summer cottage.

House sewerage in a private house is presented cesspool. It is necessary to build a pit, fill the bottom with concrete or fill it with crushed stone, cover it with rings or bricks. The design is quite simple; if you wish, you can do all the work yourself. You can also turn to professionals and monitor all processes personally, having previously familiarized yourself with the necessary information.

The design of a drainage pit largely depends on the needs of the owners of a summer house or private house. So, for a small amount of waste and using the pit only on weekends, a design without a bottom is suitable. But for permanent use you will have to equip a closed version.

A cesspool without a bottom is similar to a well. Equipped with walls that prevent contaminants from entering the soil. The bottom is covered with crushed stone, which acts as a filter. You can clean such a pit much less often.

It is recommended to separate sewer drains and use different pits for toilets, showers, and cesspools. This will allow the toilet drain to become clogged more slowly.

Bioactivators can be used to accelerate the decomposition of waste. Only silt will remain in the hole, and the water is removed using a filter. Soil bacteria also act, but their small quantities are not enough to process large volumes.

Contraindications to installing cesspools without a bottom:

1. You cannot install a sewer next to groundwater. When there are spring floods, the water level in the pit rises. In addition, soil pollution occurs due to runoff, since the water is not filtered.
2. It is contraindicated to place a waste pit on clay soils. Such soils do not allow water to pass through well, which will make filtration difficult.
3. The recommended pit volume is 1 cubic meter. m.

Sealed pits are wastewater storage tanks. The waste is pumped out using special machines. Of course, you will have to turn to professionals for help, but such a structure is more environmentally friendly and universal for installation on any type of soil. The role of cesspools closed type Special designs are often performed - septic tanks.

Rules for installing a drainage pit in a private house

First you need to decide on the location of the sewer pit. It is important to consider a number of factors. So the drain should not be placed next to the house, and the size of the pipes should not be too long. The cleaning machine must have free access to the drainage pit.

Sanitary requirements for the construction of a cesspool:

• There should be at least 5 m from the pit to nearby buildings;
• Groundwater should not reach 1 m to the sewer;
• The distance to a well or borehole depends on the type of soil: clay - 20 m, sandy loam - 50 m, loam - 30 m;
• The interval from the fence to the edge of the drainage is 1 m.

The drainage hole will perform its functions better if you dig it with a reserve.

When determining volumes, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the soil. Clay soils, for example, do not absorb the liquid fraction well. The first year the work will be satisfactory, but every year its functionality will deteriorate.

When the dimensions of the structure are determined, pipes begin to be laid. Make a slope of a couple of centimeters for every meter. Longer lengths reduce the slope.

Scheme of a cesspool in a private house

There are several types of cesspools, so the design of each type has its own differences. May be used different materials for walls. This is how pits are built using concrete rings, bricks or cinder blocks.

Scheme of a cesspool with rings:

• Rings 100 cm long and 70 cm in diameter;
• Hatch made of iron or wood;
• Ventilation riser;
• Reinforced concrete floor;
• Concrete and iron support ring;
• Plate on the bottom;
• Cement strainer.

You can increase the size of the waste pit by using more concrete rings or choosing a material with a larger diameter. There are rings with a diameter of 1.5 and 2 m. In this case, it is necessary to correctly measure the distance to wells, boreholes and other sources of drinking water. You also need to take into account the distance to a residential building.

The sequence of constructing a cesspool made of concrete rings

First of all, you need to create detail drawing, where the overflow system, the depth of the “well”, pipe inlets and outlets will be indicated. Then everything is prepared necessary tools and materials for work. When all preparation is completed, they begin to dig a foundation pit. When digging a hole, you must remember all the requirements of the sanitary instructions.

The dimensions of the pit depend on the rings and based on safety requirements. So, in case of close contact with groundwater, care is taken to ensure good waterproofing. When using special equipment, a three-dimensional pit is dug into two chambers at once. If you do the work yourself, then a separate pit is provided for each container.

Sequence of installation of concrete rings:

1. The bottom must be well compacted and leveled. Next, the plate is mounted on the bottom.
2. To concrete the bottom yourself, first fill in a sand cushion. 30 cm of material is enough, after which everything is compacted. Next, the formwork and armored belt are installed and everything is filled with concrete.
3. If there is no bottom, another preparation of the base occurs. There is no need to compact the soil. For filtration, a layer of crushed stone is poured.
4. Apply along the edges of the tiled base cement-sand mortar, on which the first ring rests. Next, the remaining rings are laid according to the same principle.
5. When the sewer requires better strength, the rings are additionally fastened together using bolts or metal plates.
6. Cut holes for pipes with overflow. Sewer pipes placed into a receiving container.

The entire structure must be well sealed. All joints, cracks and crevices must be sealed. For this, cement or other sealants are used. This work is carried out on both sides of the rings. An additional layer of waterproofing will also need to be laid on the outside of the ring.

To enhance waterproofing, the walls are covered with clay 30-50 cm thick.

All that remains is to install the ceilings. Channels or corners are mounted on the rings, and formwork with a cutout for hatches is placed on them. Next, a layer of waterproofing, reinforced belt and ventilation are installed. Flooded sewer pit covered with polyethylene. After drying, the film is removed and the floor is covered with earth.

Installation of a brick cesspool

First, choose a place to install a cesspool. It is important to comply sanitary rules. The location of the drinking water source is taken into account. Also, at the preparation stage, they stock up on all the necessary tools.

It is imperative to install ventilation that will remove methane. If it is missing, the sewer may explode. A special hatch is made for this.

Stages of laying a hole with bricks:

1. The walls are leveled and protected from crumbling;
2. The bottom is covered with a sand cushion;
3. Concrete is poured on top of the sand;
4. A week later, a cement-concrete screed is made (you can put a finished concrete slab);
5. Bricklaying;
6. Installation of waterproofing;
7. Installation of the floor, for this purpose reinforced concrete is used.

The ceiling is equipped with a hole for a hatch. Through it you can pump out sewage. At independent equipment covers need to make formwork. It is filled with two layers of concrete. Next, the device is covered with film. When the concrete dries, the formwork is covered with earth on top.

Do-it-yourself cesspool equipment without pumping

The absorption pit provides an autonomous sewer system, which you can lay out yourself. The drainage pit has an open bottom, on which a layer of crushed stone is laid. Liquid drainage seeps through the stones, while solid waste remains in the hole.

For large volumes of waste, it is recommended to install a septic tank, since soil microorganisms will not be able to cope with such work.

Bacteria from the soil feed on organic matter, processing it. The depth of the pit depends on the number of family members and the intensity of waste. On average, 120-200 liters per day are allocated per person. Liquid with water seeps through the crushed stone after 3 days.

pros drain hole without pumping:

• Simple arrangement;
• All materials are freely available;
• Quick installation.

But there are also disadvantages to this design. There is always an unpleasant odor from the waste. It is also worth noting that open sewage pit threatens nature.

DIY cesspool (video)

A burial pit is necessary sewerage installation for a country house, private house or cottage. There are 2 options for cesspool drainage. Pit open type does not provide a bottom. Only a stone layer is poured onto the bottom, which performs filtering functions. Closed drain – completely sealed design. Its installation requires the construction of a solid bottom and lid.

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