Insulating materials for walls and floors. Thermal insulation materials for floors

During construction or repairs, walls, ceilings, floors and other surfaces are covered with special materials, to prevent heat loss during the cold period and was not bothered by the heat in summer season. One of them is roll insulation, often used for large areas.

Advantages of roll material

This material has many advantages. The main thing is that the insulation in rolls copes well with preserving optimal temperatures indoors. There are other advantages:

Main types of insulation

Thermal insulation in rolled rolls can be used both for external and internal laying. There are options specifically designed for pipes and communications. Roll insulation for walls directly under the wallpaper is also available for sale.

The raw materials used for their production are also different. Thermal insulation made from mineral components is the most common. Foamed polyethylene is also popular. Natural insulation materials like corks are less common and used. Some types have an additional layer in the form of foil or paper. Let's consider each option in more detail.

Special thermal insulation coating

To improve the performance of their products, companies that produce rolled thermal insulation add certain coatings. The basis under them may be different.

Types of mineral wool in rolls

There are several varieties of insulation in this group. Their structure is the same, they differ in composition.

Any type of wool must be covered with a vapor barrier, especially in rooms with high humidity. And it also holds back the smallest particles of fibers that appear over time and negatively affect a person. Raw materials often contain formaldehyde, which also affects health. High-quality rolls should have a minimum of this substance

For laying mineral wool The frame must be installed. On the walls, the panels that hold it in place are pressed firmly so that the canvas does not move out over time. For necessary protection from the cold, the number of layers can be increased.

Manufacturers often divide their products according to the purpose of the insulation. For ceilings and floors, the rolls will be lighter. For the main floor, walls, and other surfaces, the density of the material is usually increased. Due to this, the dimensions of the roll also change:

• length from 3 to 8 meters;
• thickness in 3 options (50 mm, 100 mm, 150 mm);
• width from 0.6 m to 1.22 m.

Manufacturers of insulating wool

Construction stores offer a wide selection of mineral wool. Let's look at the features of materials from some companies specializing in this area:

Has many positive qualities. It is obtained by filling heated polyethylene with gases. As a result, a mass is formed with many closed bubbles inside, which subsequently hardens. For special strength, it is also “cross-linked,” i.e., the bonds of molecules are strengthened chemically.

Therefore, they are available for sale two options: stitched and, accordingly, unstitched. Both types have very low thermal conductivity, but the first still has best characteristics, which is why it costs more (its density is 30 kg/m³). The general properties of the materials are:

The difference is that cross-linked polyethylene foam is capable of absorbing sounds well, but its brother cannot boast of this. It works worse as a sound insulator. Under mechanical stress, the uncrosslinked version loses its shape irrevocably. Cross-linked has greater compressive strength, which means it can be used for insulating horizontal surfaces.

Due to the thinness of the material, rolls can be up to 30 meters in length, width from 0.6 to 1.2 m. Thickness reaches 1 cm. Negative nuances for polyethylene are flammability and current conductivity (electricity passing nearby must be well insulated) . To secure the material to the wall, special glue is required.

Penofol brand polyethylene foam

Penofol insulation - appeared recently, but has already stood out among its peers. It is not destroyed by weather conditions and aggressive environment. Thermal insulators from this company have several varieties:

• the foil covering can be fixed on one or both sides;
• rolls with adhesive layer(even more simplifies installation);
• specialized type of insulation for communication networks;
• insulation for harsh conditions with a thickness of up to 40 mm.

The combined technology makes it possible to further reduce the thermal conductivity of insulated surfaces. A moisture-resistant and durable material that does not require the cost of vapor barrier, can be used in various directions. Does not lose its properties in the temperature range from -60 to +100 C°.

Cork insulation for surfaces

An environmentally friendly and durable raw material for the production of thermal insulation is cork oak bark. Absolutely natural ingredients make the rolls safe for health. The crushed bark is combined with organic glue and pressed. Thickness ranges from 2 to 6 millimeters. The length of the roll reaches 10 meters, the width is mostly one meter. Most often, in this form, the cork goes under wallpaper, on a substrate for laminate or “warm flooring”.

Thermal conductivity index not inferior to mineral wool, but the layer used is much thinner. Cork insulation is not flammable, does not absorb water well and retains noise. However, its density is high, and therefore its weight is high. The safety factor is high, the service life is stated to be up to 50 years. The negative side is the price of “naturalness”; compared to the others, it is quite high.

This insulation is produced mainly by Portuguese companies: Wicanders, Izora, Amorim. They offer a wide range of insulating rolls, which can also serve as wall decoration. Installation is also simple; basically, the cork is “set” on glue.

Modern technologies provide a huge selection of heat insulators for any premises and structures. The selection criteria are based on what surface needs to be covered and how much the buyer is willing to pay for it to maintain comfort in their home.

Heat loss, especially in winter time, negatively affects the health of apartment residents. 30% of the heat escapes through cracks in windows and doorways, and 20% is lost through the floors, mainly on the ground floor, where the heated room is in contact with the ground, if there is no thermal insulation layer. Floor insulation makes your life more comfortable: you can walk on the floor barefoot at any time without fear of catching a cold. The heat in the apartment is maintained thanks to the thermal insulation of the floor. The question arises: “Which floor insulation should you choose?”

Today we will tell you about what types of floor insulation exist, what are their advantages and disadvantages. We will introduce you to the criteria for choosing a thermal insulation layer, tell you which insulation is best for retaining heat in the house, and how to install it correctly in a particular room.

Criteria for choosing floor insulation

To choose the right material for floor insulation, you should pay attention to the following criteria.

The insulation must be:

Types of floor insulation

To choose the right thermal insulation material, you need to know what types the industry offers and what their advantages and disadvantages are.

There are several types of insulation:

• mineral;
• polymer;
• wood-chip.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is baked clay in granules.

Despite its advantages, there are also minor disadvantages.

Expanded clay takes a long time to dry and slowly releases absorbed moisture. Expanded clay produces dust, so you need to wear a respirator when working with it.

Otherwise, expanded clay is a convenient and high-quality insulation material. Expanded clay is used to insulate walls, floors, and roofs of houses.

Polymer house insulation

These include:

1. expanded polystyrene foam;
2. polyurethane foam;
3. foamed polyethylene on a foil base;
4. penoizol-liquid foam.

Expanded polystyrene

One of the polymer floor insulation materials is polystyrene foam. This is a foamed plastic mass. Consists of individual granular cells.

• This durable material, which, despite its light weight, can withstand high loads.
• Due to its low weight, foam itself creates minimal load on the walls and foundation.
• It is moisture resistant, so it can be used in places with high humidity on the balcony.
• Polystyrene foam retains heat for a long time, almost without absorbing it. It surpasses many insulation materials in terms of thermal insulation.
• When insulating floors, you can get by with a small thickness of polystyrene foam.
• The price of polystyrene foam is low, which is an important advantage of this material and attracts the attention of buyers.

An important disadvantage of polystyrene foam is that when burned it releases harmful substances that are poisonous and dangerous.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is different from polystyrene foam manufacturing method and characteristics. Polystyrene foam is produced by exposing the granules to steam. At high temperatures, the cells increase in size and fill the entire mold. A foam element is added to extruded polystyrene foam at elevated pressure and temperature, which is extruded through an extruder.

The thermal insulation properties of extruded polystyrene are much better than conventional polystyrene foam. But extruded polystyrene foam has lower vapor permeability. Another disadvantage is high flammability.

Foamed polyethylene on a foil base

Foamed polyethylene on a foil base is one of the best floor insulation materials. It is obtained by melting polyethylene in a special container with the addition of liquefied gas, which acts as a foamed reagent. A foil film is applied to one side of the polyethylene foam, which reflects heat. Foil-coated polyethylene is supplied in rolls, sheets, and slabs.

• The closedness of the cells contributes to high hygroscopicity. The water resistance of the material allows you to insulate floors and walls in baths and saunas.
• The material is resilient and elastic, durable: it can withstand significant loads and does not deform.
• Caustic acids, alkalis, gasoline and other petroleum products do not affect polyethylene.
• Laying foil polyethylene is easy and simple by hand, because it weighs little and is quite thin. Foil insulation is designed in such a way that it reflects heat back into the room. It does not transfer heat to the external environment. Therefore, it should be laid with the reflective side up.

Penoizol

Penoizol-liquid foam.

It is good because it is poured into all the cracks and hard to reach places.

Insulation is especially necessary when building a house, because it fills all the air voids and thereby retains heat.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is one of the best floor insulation materials of our time.

Wood-based insulation materials include:

• plywood;
• cellulose wadding;
• sawdust.

Ecowool

Ecowool is a loose material made from cellulose. It is filled automatically or manually, covering the most inaccessible places. The cotton wool is poured into special pumps, and it passes into the room through thick pipes. Ecowool is not liquid.

The disadvantage of ecowool is its fear of moisture, so it is not recommended to use this material in rooms with excessive humidity.

Sawdust materials

Sawdust itself is not used for insulation because it does not meet fire safety requirements. Mainly used for insulation:

1. sawdust pellets;
2. wood concrete;
3. wood blocks.

Wood blocks are sawdust with the addition of copper sulfate and cement.

Sawdust granules are obtained by adding antiseptics to them, making them resistant to the appearance of microorganisms. Sawdust granules have low thermal conductivity and high sound insulation properties.

Arbolit-wood concrete. It is fire resistant. It has increased strength and can quickly restore its shape after excessive loads. Absorbs sound waves perfectly and retains heat.

Its disadvantage is low moisture resistance. If you want to make insulation from wood concrete, then the humidity in the apartment should not exceed 75%. Finishing material should be placed on top of the wood concrete. protective layer.

One of popular insulation materials is cork. This best insulation under linoleum, but also the most expensive. Cork fiber is obtained by processing oak wood. The wood is crushed, the particles are glued together with suberin, which is part of oak. They are steamed and pressed to form cork fiber. The material is completely natural and does not contain any polymer additives. The material is durable, moisture-resistant, lightweight. Due to its structure (consists of cells, each of which is filled with a gaseous substance) it is considered the best heat insulator.

Cork fiber can be used as a substrate and as an independent floor covering.

How to lay insulation on the floor

Different insulation materials need to be installed differently.

Mineral wool is laid between the joists. But the glass wool should be properly insulated so that when it wears out, dust does not get into the apartment. It is very important to leave a ventilation gap.

Laying ecowool

Ecowool is laid mechanically or manually. Small particles of ecowool pass through the hose, and the operator uses air to direct the material with glue added to it onto the wall or floor. Sticking. ecowool particles create a thermal insulation layer. Cotton wool is applied to the floors manually, both liquid and dry. It just falls asleep between the lags. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top, and then wooden floors. The price of ecowool insulation along with work is 2200 per cubic meter using the dry method and 2800 per cubic meter using the wet method.

Laying expanded clay

There are 3 options for laying insulation such as expanded clay:

First you need to sweep the floor, clean construction garbage. You need to lay a PVC film or a special vapor barrier layer. Mark the level of the screed. Then apply 10cm wide edge tape to leave a gap from the walls. Fill the floor with expanded clay, level it, and fill it with screed on top. You can separate the screed with a waterproofing layer;

Laying foam

Expanded polystyrene is laid and then filled with cement or concrete. This is a floating screed.

Logs are placed under wooden floors, and foam plastic is laid between them.

The third way to lay polystyrene foam is to lay it on a concrete floor, and on top of them are sheets of plywood.

Polyurethane foam application technology

First you need to prepare the base: remove debris. Unevenness of the base does not matter when laying polyurethane foam. The main thing is that there are no oil stains on the surface, otherwise there will be no reliable adhesion of the insulation to the base in this place. You should pay attention to the humidity of the floor; it should not exceed 5%. The air temperature must be maintained at least +10 degrees. Polyurethane foam is applied through a special nozzle. Components A and B are mixed and sprayed. The material must be evenly distributed using special equipment over the surface of the base. The specialist himself regulates the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer. The insulation dries within 24-48 hours. If the insulation is laid between wooden joists, then after the material has dried, installation can be done finishing coating. If polyurethane foam is placed on concrete base, then you need to pour a cement-sand screed on top of it, which will protect the heat-insulating layer.

Today we told you about floor insulation. We revealed the advantages of each of them and reported on the features of their installation. And which one is better is up to you to choose. We hope you do right choice.

The choice of thermal insulation material is a responsible process. Today, many manufacturers have begun to produce insulation that can perform several functions at once. It not only makes the surface warm, but also creates reliable protection from wind, moisture, steam and corrosion.

Kinds

If you decide to insulate the walls, then when you go to a hardware store, you will see that the assortment outside is quite wide. Each of the available insulation materials differs not only in its thermal insulation qualities. Let's look at the main ones.

Liquid materials

Several years ago, builders actively used solid thermal insulation materials to insulate walls. But not so long ago, new ones with a liquid consistency began to appear on the construction market. In appearance and consistency, such products are similar to paint, which is why they are often called insulating paint.

In the photo - liquid thermal insulation materials for walls

The composition of liquid thermal insulation is presented in the form of small capsules made of ceramics and glass. They are filled with air or inert gas. The role of the binding component is performed by acrylic polymers. The finished product is a thick dough.

Hard materials

To insulate walls, rigid insulation materials can be used, the installation of which is much simpler. They are geometrically correct slabs, thanks to which you can obtain a perfectly flat surface. Then simply plaster or veneer it various materials. For the most part they fit like .

The photo shows rigid thermal insulation materials for walls:

Solid insulation does not shrink or wrinkle. Installation of solid insulation does not require lathing, frames or other structures. The materials are highly durable and their service life is more than 50 years.

Warm plaster

Among the advantages of this material are high strength indicators. This suggests that the surface is very difficult to damage, which cannot be said about previous materials. Warm plaster is a liquid heat insulator. This is nothing more than a cement-sand mortar with the addition of natural and polymer fillers.

On the picture- warm plaster

Thanks to them, it is possible to reduce the thermal conductivity of the original composition. The thermal conductivity of walls with a heat insulator will directly depend on the fillers used. When laying out a thin layer 1-1.5 cm thick, you can replace 50 ml of polystyrene foam. But you can understand what warm plaster for the facade looks like and how it is used by looking at the photos and information

Gas-filled plastics

This material for thermal insulation of walls is considered one of the most effective. To obtain it, the method of foaming various materials is used. The result of this process is a sheet foam insulator.

Photo-gas-filled plastics

Its installation is simple and convenient. Expanded polystyrene can easily be considered one of the leaders among all produced foam plastics. You can use a heat insulator to insulate walls from the outside. But what they are and where exactly it is used is described in this article.

Liquid foam

This is another option liquid insulation. Its name is penoizol. Its filling is carried out using hoses between the walls, in the cracks, and in the formwork at the time of construction. This insulation option is a budget option, since its cost is 2 times cheaper compared to other analogues.

The photo shows liquid foam for walls

Liquid foam is able to resist microbes, is breathable, does not burn well, and has a long service life. But what kind of liquid thermal insulation for walls from the inside exists, in addition to the above, is described in this

Extruded polystyrene foam

Polystyrene granules are used to make this material. They are melted under high temperature. The material is then extruded from the extruder and foamed. This is what gives such .

Photo-extruded polystyrene foam for walls

Thus, it is possible to obtain strong, durable and breathable insulation. It has excellent contact with various wall coverings.

Glass wool

This material is a type of mineral fiber. Glass scrap is used to make it. The release of glass wool occurs with different densities and thickness. If you need thin fiberglass, then you need to choose a material with a thickness of 5 cm. This is enough to replace a meter-long brick wall.

In the photo there is glass wool for the wall

Fiberglass has high fire resistance and elasticity. Characterized by excellent performance heat and sound insulation. But when installing fiberglass, you need to take care of your safety by wearing a respirator.

Election criteria

When choosing a thermal insulation material for insulating external and internal walls, it is necessary to take into account a number of requirements:

1. Thermal insulation performance. The higher this indicator, the better the material will retain heat.
2. Weight. The lighter the heat insulator, the fewer difficulties arise during its installation.
3. Vapor permeability. If this indicator is high, then excess liquid will drain freely.
4. Flammability. In this case, the indicators can determine how fire hazardous the material is and whether it poses a threat to the house and its occupants.
5. Eco-holic purity. When purchasing modern insulation, you can be sure that it consists exclusively of natural raw materials.
6. Lifetime. It is necessary to select insulation that has a long service life, so as not to waste extra effort and money on repeated work.
7. Price. And although the price of a heat insulator is indicated as the last criterion, for many it is the most important. Of course, you must understand that the more expensive the material, the higher its specifications.

When working with walls, it is useful to know the difference.

Thermal insulation of walls is a responsible job that requires the selection of high-quality insulation. Today there are enough options on the construction market, each of which has its own technical characteristics and is suitable for insulating walls outside or inside the house.

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

Gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
Polyurethane foam
Cellulose wool

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Bulk and other materials.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent thermal insulation material with many positive qualities. Mineral wool is available in two types - roll insulation for floors and slabs.

Bulk insulation: types and scope of application

This material is best suited for insulating wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the joists.

• Non-flammability;
• Long service life;

• Low strength indicators;

Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

• Affordable price;

• Flammability;
• Fragility;

• Long service life;
• Low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam include the inability to “breathe” and good flammability, which will not allow creating a fireproof structure. Read also: “Which insulation for floors under linoleum to choose and how to install it.”

Gypsum fiber

Cork

• Environmental Safety;
• Light weight;
• High strength;
• Good ductility;

Expanded clay

Polyurethane foam

• Quick installation;
• No joints;
• Excellent elasticity;

Cellulose wool

• Integrity of the coating;
• Low cost;

• Flammability;
• Difficult to install.

Conclusion

Insulation of walls inside the house: advantages and disadvantages

You can come across quite a lot of statements against insulating the walls of a house inside. They say that with such insulation, problems of wet corners arise, dampness appears in the walls, as a result, fungus and unpleasant odors... The purpose of this article is to figure out why the listed problems arise and, most importantly, how they can be avoided and still insulate the walls of the house from the inside. Well, because such insulation has a number of advantages.

Advantages of internal wall insulation

Insulating walls inside the house has the following advantages:

• You can insulate at any time of the year, regardless of the weather.
• there is no need to build too high scaffolds (unless, of course, we are talking about insulating a residential building, and not some kind of “convention palace” :))
• If you need to insulate not in a private building, but in some high-rise building, then for external insulation you need to coordinate a project to change the facade. Not to mention that it is expensive in itself - without hired specialists not enough. Well, inside your apartment...

What are the disadvantages of internal wall insulation and how to avoid them?

Internal wall insulation also has disadvantages.

When insulating from the inside, the area of ​​the room is reduced

The first disadvantage of insulating a house from the inside is that the thickness of the wall will increase inward, causing the area of ​​the room to decrease.

This cannot be avoided at all, since the insulation is thick in any case. But it can be minimized if the insulation layer is not very thick. I am hinting at choosing insulation with the best thermal insulation properties... For now I am only hinting, but I will say specifically below.

Internal insulation worsens the indoor microclimate

The second disadvantage: internal insulation of the house can lead to a deterioration of the indoor microclimate. This is exactly what all opponents of such insulation are talking about. What are we talking about?

The wall behind the insulation is cold. Therefore, in winter, water vapor formed in the room, passing through layers of interior decoration and insulation, condenses on the inner surface of the wall. The result is that the wall gradually accumulates moisture, which does not have time to evaporate, which is why on the walls - at temperatures from +10 and above! - fungus and mold settle in, the house smells damp, appears on clothes, furniture, books white coating... not enough pleasant things.

The described problem can be avoided if you avoid mistakes during construction and choose the right material for insulation. What kind of mistakes are these and what is the best way to insulate the house inside, read on.

When insulating indoors, cold bridges remain

The third disadvantage of insulating walls inside the house: at the junction of interfloor/attic floors with outer wall Cold bridges remain, through which heat leaks still occur (orange arrows):

We have this minus only if we did not treat the insulation conscientiously enough: for example, we insulated the walls, but covered the floors and ceilings. But what does technology have to do with it if you haven’t cooked your own “pot”? To avoid this disadvantage, you need to create a continuous thermal insulation circuit from the inside of the entire room:

That's all.

How to avoid the disadvantages of internal insulation?

So, what tips can you find to smooth out the disadvantages of internal insulation? And are all the tips worthwhile?

Tip 1. A vapor barrier with one-way conductivity is placed between the wall finishing and the insulation. This is what they recommend doing when insulating the inside with mineral wool.

But let's look at the picture:

With internal insulation, the dew point shifts to the inner surface of the wall, and the insulation, mineral wool, begins to absorb moisture from the wall. And then, after a month or two, an unpleasant smell appears, bacteria begin to develop in the mineral wool... we don’t see it, but we feel the smell, but we can’t understand where it comes from.

But how can this be: after all, there is a vapor barrier that should not let moisture into the insulation! Theoretically, this is true. But in practice it is not possible to ensure 100% sealing. Why? Let's remember how the vapor barrier and further cladding are attached? They install a profile for drywall, stretch the film... then they screw the drywall, GOING WITH SCREWS THROUGH THE FILM - and where is the sealed vapor barrier? And it’s impossible to ensure 100% sealing around the perimeter of the wall.

And the air in the wool itself has moisture, which condenses as soon as the wall has cooled sufficiently.

Conclusion: any insulation that allows steam to pass through is not suitable for internal insulation!

Tip 2. When designing insulation inside a house, you need to take into account the process of moisture transfer through the building envelope. That is, the vapor permeability of materials in the “pie” of the structure should decrease from room to street.

Difficult said? Simpler: a non-vapor-permeable material should be in the room, behind it should be a material with less vapor permeability, behind it with even less, etc.

For example, you need to do insulation of the walls of a panel house from the inside. Question: what? Mineral wool? Steam passes through mineral wool much better than through concrete (I must say: steam practically does not pass through concrete).

Conclusion: do not insulate panel (brick, gas-block, etc.) walls from the inside with mineral wool, but choose another insulation. Non-vapor permeable. For example, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. (Actually, mineral wool for internal insulation is only suitable frame houses and attics, which also have mineral wool inside the frame.)

Comment! The author believes that polystyrene foam for insulating the walls of a house inside is BAD! For good health. But if your opinion is different, then at least do this insulation correctly: the walls must be level (!) and the insulation sheet must fit tightly (without gaps!) to this flat surface (i.e., if we attach the insulation with glue, then the sheet must be spread over the entire surface, rather than putting several dots and/or stripes on it).

Tip 3. In any case, it should be arranged good ventilation. No comments here, because this is correct.

Requirements for insulation for internal insulation

Internal insulation places the following requirements on the insulation:

• durability,
• don't be afraid of fire,
• aging resistance,
• environmental Safety,
• biological resistance (not edible for mice, moths, mold...),
• ability to maintain shape,
• sufficient thermal insulation properties.

It is advisable, before buying insulation, to check the availability of various fire and sanitary safety certificates. But if the conclusion about fire safety You can still believe, but about sanitary - not always: many modern materials are not at all environmentally friendly, even if the certificates state their purity.

Conclusion: it is better to focus not only (and not so much) on certificates, but on common sense, intelligence, practical experience, and time-tested.

And now the question is: what is the best way to insulate the walls of a house from the inside?

What insulation materials should be used to insulate a house from the inside?

I’ve already said a couple of times why mineral wool is not suitable, I hope that’s enough. So what to insulate with? There are materials that perfectly solve all problems. These are materials that absolutely vapor-impermeable.

First, extruded polystyrene foam. We use only the one that has a “groove-ridge”. Extruded polystyrene foam has very good thermal resistance, so the thickness of the sheet for internal insulation is only 20...30 mm. Result: the wall is healthy and the minimum area is taken.

If the issue of ecology is important to you, then we pay attention to another material: foam glass. There is a question of sealing joints here: while polystyrene can fit tightly sheet to sheet, foam glass has rougher edges.

Types of insulation for house walls: outside and inside for wooden and frame houses +Video

Therefore, foam glass is often placed on bitumen mastic, which again raises the issue of ecology. Then it is better to seal the joints with silicone sealant or liquid rubber. The foam glass itself can be glued to polyurethane foam glue, or, in extreme cases, to polyurethane foam.

The third material often used for internal insulation is ordinary white foam. The problem with this material is that it has pores. Foam plastic with a density of less than 35 kg/m3 has a large number of technological pores, which is why it leaks steam! The lower the density of the foam, the more vapor permeable it is. And the older the foam, the larger the pores, the greater the vapor permeability of the foam - even with the promised density of more than 35 kg/m3. Therefore, for internal insulation it is better to buy high-quality material. Again, it’s a question of ecology, i.e. health.

If all of the above does not scare you away from insulating the walls inside the house (or you simply have nowhere to go), then in the next article we will look at ways to insulate walls from the inside. See you.

insulation of house walls inside

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or penoplex
Extruded polystyrene foam
Gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
Polyurethane foam
Cellulose wool

Insulation is used to prevent heat loss in the house or individual rooms. Arrangement of insulation is a rather serious process, and one of the leading roles in this matter is played by the choice of suitable thermal insulation material. What types of floor insulation there are will be discussed in this article.

Insulation materials are available in two formats:

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Bulk and other materials.

Both categories include a fairly wide range of materials with a wide variety of properties and characteristics. The most popular thermal insulation materials for floors will be discussed below.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent thermal insulation material with many positive qualities. Mineral wool is available in two types - roll insulation for floors and slabs. This material is best suited for insulating wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the joists.

The list of positive qualities of mineral wool looks like this:

• Good resistance to low temperatures;
• Non-flammability;
• Long service life;
• Chemical resistance;
• Stable physical indicators.

There are some drawbacks - mineral wool has the following negative qualities:

• Considerable dimensions, due to which the thermal insulation layer occupies a large volume;
• Low strength indicators;
• Poor resistance to moisture.

Mineral wool, when moisture comes into contact with it, immediately decreases in volume, and even if it is dried, the heat-insulating properties of the material will deteriorate many times over. To prevent this phenomenon, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer when installing insulation.

A good solution to the problem of moisture would be to use fiberglass - this material can absorb liquid and does not lose its characteristics after drying. However, the choice will not be easy - mineral wool is well suited for ensuring fire safety.

Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of small balls connected to each other. The production of expanded polystyrene is carried out using two technologies - pressed and pressless, and the difference between the resulting materials is small. However, most often pressed polystyrene foam labeled PS is used for floor insulation.

Typically, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. If you need to decide which insulation to choose for a floor with water or electrically heated, then profile slabs, for the manufacture of which dense polystyrene foam is used, are much better suited - this material has a relief surface that prevents damage heating elements and improves traction.

Expanded polystyrene has many advantages:

• Excellent strength properties;
• Good thermal insulation characteristics;
• Affordable price;
• Ability to prevent moisture penetration;
• Excellent resistance to low temperatures;
• Simple installation, which is determined by the format of the produced material.

Expanded polystyrene also has disadvantages:

• Flammability;
• Destruction of the material due to prolonged exposure to sunlight;
• Inability to pass air;
• Fragility;
• When a small amount of water gets inside the slabs and then freezes, the structure of the polystyrene foam is destroyed, so during installation it will be necessary to install a layer of waterproofing;
• During the installation process, seams appear between the slabs, which then need to be sealed using polyurethane foam or sealant.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is made by extrusion, which explains its name. The production technology of extruded polystyrene foam makes it possible to create floor insulation with a monolithic microstructure consisting of sealed cells filled with air. There are no pores in these cells, so moisture and steam cannot get inside the material. Read also: “Which insulation is better to install under laminate.”

The list of advantages of such material looks like this:

• High strength compared to foam;
• Long service life;
• Good resistance to precipitation and ultraviolet rays;
• High resistance to aggressive chemicals;
• No toxic emissions;
• Low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam include the inability to “breathe” and good flammability, which will not allow creating a fireproof structure.

Electrical, sound and noise insulating materials

Read also: “Which insulation for floors under linoleum to choose and how to install it.”

Gypsum fiber

Gypsum fiber is the best option for insulating any floor covering. The versatility of this material is its main advantage, allowing it to insulate even structures with electrically heated floors.

To install a dry screed, as the technology of insulation using gypsum fiber is called, a minimum of knowledge and time is required - it is enough to follow the correct operating algorithm. In addition, it is worth knowing that gypsum fiber is very poorly resistant to moisture, and the cost of the material is quite high.

Cork

To make such thermal insulation, cork oak bark is used. As a rule, cork insulation is produced in the format of slabs, the thickness of which varies from 25 to 50 cm. The slabs can be based on cork granules connected with resin, or pre-crushed pressed cork bark.

Cork insulation has many advantages:

• Environmental Safety;
• Light weight;
• High strength;
• Good ductility;
• Excellent resistance to dampness and mold;
• Easy to install and work with the material;
• Non-flammability and absence of toxic emissions during smoldering;
• Long service life - cork can last more than 50 years.

Among the disadvantages of cork insulation, we can only highlight high cost material.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay belongs to the category of bulk insulation materials. Thermal insulation using expanded clay has been used for a very long time - this material has become popular for its good thermal insulation characteristics and ability to absorb moisture without consequences.

Most main problem When installing such insulation, it is necessary to create a layer of thermal insulation with a thickness of at least 15 cm - this is far from the thinnest floor insulation. However, there will not be any particular difficulties with this - the work can be easily done with your own hands and, for the most part, only requires time.

Polyurethane foam

A good insulation option for any surface is polyurethane foam spraying. Polyurethane foam is a small capsule filled with air. To use this material, no hydro or vapor barrier is required. In addition, polyurethane foam applied to the floor practically does not absorb moisture.

This material has many advantages, among which are:

• Undemanding to surface leveling;
• Quick installation;
• No joints;
• Excellent elasticity;
• Neutral reaction to mold and microorganisms.

The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam insulation is the difficulty of spraying - it is impossible to carry out this work yourself without the proper skills.

Cellulose wool

Cellulose wool is a material made from wood fibers with a fine-grained structure. Laying this material can be carried out using two technologies - wet and dry. Using wet method The cotton wool is blown out moistened, which allows you to create a monolithic coating. Dry installation looks somewhat simpler - for this you need to fill the cotton wool and compact it.

The advantages of cellulose wool include the following qualities:

• Integrity of the coating;
• Low cost;
• Good thermal insulation performance;
• There is no need to install a vapor barrier.

The main disadvantages of cotton wool are:

• Flammability;
• Weak ductility and poor compressive strength;
• Difficult to install.

Conclusion

The insulation materials presented are the most popular and are used quite often. To choose which insulation to use for the floor, you need to understand the characteristics of all thermal insulation materials and choose the best option for a particular situation.

Insulation of a private house

If your country house is not able to retain heat at the proper level, and you constantly freeze in it in winter, then you should think about insulating it. Of course, you can light the fireplace, turn on an electric heater in each room and thus spend the cold winter evenings. But in order to solve this problem once and for all and not spend fabulous sums on gas and electricity bills during the cold season, it is better to insulate your country cottage. After this, you will not only live in warmth, peace and comfort in winter, but will also save energy.

Stages of insulation

The process of insulating a country house consists of a number of stages:

• foundation insulation,
• floor insulation,
• wall insulation (internal and external),
• ceiling insulation,
• roof insulation.

Below in the article we will look at some of these stages in detail.

In order to achieve maximum effect from the insulation carried out, the house should be insulated comprehensively. It is very important to use only high-quality materials.

Thermal imaging

Many people believe that insulating a building with the help of professionals is much better. This is explained by the specifics of the specialist’s work. As a rule, a built cottage loses heat due to its design flaws. It is best to identify these shortcomings and identify all weak spots at home using thermal imaging. Having identified weak points, the specialist will be able to pay maximum attention to them. And only a professional with his own special equipment can take such a photo.

Wall insulation

As mentioned above, insulation of the house should be carried out as a whole. Very often, the heat loss distribution diagram shows that most of the heat is lost through the walls of the house. Therefore, it is better to start insulating a house from the walls.

Wall insulation can be:

There are a number of features that need to be taken into account.

When combining internal and external wall insulation, certain proportions must be observed - the level of thermal resistance of the external insulation should be three times higher than the level of the internal one.

Internal walls

As a result of internal insulation of the walls, the enclosing structure does not accumulate heat. Over time, fungus may appear on the walls inside the house, as condensation will occur between the wall and the insulation layer.

Another significant drawback of using only this type of insulation is the fact that the walls will be in the sub-zero temperature zone in winter.

External walls

If external wall insulation is used, then all of the above disadvantages are absent. Besides, this type Insulating the walls will provide the house with a much longer service life. This is explained by the fact that with external insulation, the possibility of the formation of various fungi on the walls and the house with outside it turns out to be additionally protected from the negative effects of environmental factors.

The only drawback of external wall insulation is the seasonality of the work, since this insulation can be carried out only in the warm season.

Conventionally, external wall insulation is divided into three main methods:

• laying insulation with inside enclosing structures,
• laying insulation inside building envelopes,
• laying insulation on the outside of the building envelope (this system is called a wet-type system).

Choice of insulation

After you have chosen a method of insulation for your home, you need to choose the right material for future work. Various materials have different coefficients thermal expansion, which must be taken into account when choosing a material. If this has not been taken into account, the material may deform over time and cracks will appear on it.

When using wet type insulation important parameter is vapor permeability, as well as calculation of moisture transfer. That is, moisture, which is winter period will accumulate as a result of temperature changes, must be summer period completely removed. Such calculations should be carried out taking into account the level of average temperatures in your area. If this factor is neglected, then excess moisture will lead to the appearance of fungi.

Insulation of floors

Insulation of floors in the house should be carried out comprehensively. This is the only way to achieve it good result. Since concrete has a high level of thermal conductivity, during construction country houses It is recommended to insulate foundations from the outside.

Before you start insulating the floor of the house, if there is a basement or basement, first insulate them. When insulating, the floor should not be raised higher than the waterproofing layer between the foundation and the brick.

Stages of work

Typically, floor insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Place crushed stone on the ground (layer thickness should be 10cm).
2. A layer of sand is poured over the crushed stone (the thickness of the layer should also be 10 cm).
3. Thermal insulation boards are laid.
4. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
5. Concrete screed is made.
6. Lay the floor covering.

This floor insulation algorithm is the simplest, but there are others. They are selected in accordance with the functional properties of the future floor.

The most common schemes for installing floor insulation in country cottages are the following:

• Above the underground.
• Floors in wet conditions.
• Floors in a cold attic.
• Floors laid with heating cables.
• Floors above the basement.

  Thermal insulation of the house

Ceiling insulation

Heat loss from ceilings is about ten percent. And although at first glance this figure does not seem so significant, we are considering the insulation of a house as a whole.

To insulate ceilings, it is very important to choose good material. Preference should be given to safe and environmentally friendly materials. In the event of a fire, fire and hot air tend to rise, so it is very important that the materials chosen are not flammable and do not emit choking smoke.

The following materials are suitable for insulating the ceiling:

• ecowool,
• mineral wool,
• polyethylene films,
• polypropylene films.

The listed materials are inexpensive and meet all the above requirements.

Insulating the floor in the attic

If in country house If there is an attic, then the ceiling insulation is carried out in two stages. First, it is necessary to insulate the floor in the attic, and only then the ceiling itself.

First attached to the ceiling vapor barrier material, then lay insulation (for example, sheets of mineral wool). A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation - waterproofing film. After the last stage, the insulation of the ceilings in the house can be considered complete. Next, the ceilings can be sheathed with clapboards, or a suspended ceiling system can be installed.

Video. Proper insulation of house walls. Outside or inside? Physics of the process

Video. Insulation of the facade of a private residential building

Thermal insulation, insulation

How to insulate floors in a private house with your own hands?

A well-insulated house is always more comfortable. And heating costs are much lower. In this article we will tell you about how you can properly insulate a house, both during the construction process and when it has already been built. You will learn what materials are used and, most importantly, how to do it yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals.

What can you do if the house is cold despite heating?

When building a house, special attention should be paid to insulation, especially floor insulation. If this is not done, the house will always be cold and damp. It will be necessary to increase the heating power, therefore, you will face additional material costs. Isn't it easier to make high-quality insulation? Below we will talk about how you can do this relatively easily with your own hands. Well, if you hired builders, then based on the material in the article, you can always monitor their work.

It all starts with the foundation

Insulation of a shallow strip foundation

Yes, still for real initial stage construction, care should be taken to insulate and waterproof the foundation. For example, you are building small house on a shallow strip foundation - the simplest and least expensive way to erect a foundation for a building. In this case, it is recommended to stick cheap insulation, for example, foam plastic, on the sides of the finished concrete strip, and lay roofing material on top. Both polystyrene foam and roofing felt can be glued to bitumen mastic. The roofing felt strips are overlapped and the seams are sealed with a blowtorch.

Before erecting the walls, waterproofing of 2 layers of roofing material is laid on the upper part of the foundation.

Just these alone is enough simple measures, will not allow dampness to penetrate into the concrete, it will not freeze in winter, which means that it will become much more comfortable to live in such a house, because there will be no heat leakage. And the service life of the foundation will increase many times.

Insulation of slab foundations

In private construction on heterogeneous soils, a monolithic reinforced concrete slab is often used as a foundation. It is insulated in the same way, only the insulation and waterproofing are laid over the entire upper surface of the base, except for those places where the walls will be erected. Only waterproofing is attached in these places.

Basement insulation

If it is planned to build a basement under the house, then a recessed strip foundation is built. Insulation and waterproofing during the construction of such a foundation is carried out with outside, and from the inside. Both the floor and ceiling of the basement must be insulated. From the inside, the basement is often insulated with a material called “liquid rubber”. Insulation is glued onto it, and the finishing cladding is mounted on top of the sheathing.

Important! Insulation should always be done together with waterproofing.

What to do if the house has already been built?

Here, of course, there will be more work, but insulation is still possible, you just have to dig trenches around the perimeter of the building to the depth of the foundation and insulate it from the sides. If the house already has floors, then they will have to be dismantled, if they are wooden, remove linoleum or other covering, if a cement screed is used as the floor. To insulate the floor inside the house, you can use both cheap materials and higher quality ones, for example, penoplex. It costs, of course, more than foam plastic or mineral wool, but has many advantages :

• insulation sheets have different sizes and thickness, which allows you to choose the most suitable for a given room;

• Each sheet has a tenon joint, which avoids gaps during installation.

If, after all, foam plastic is chosen as insulation, then all the cracks need to be “blown out” polyurethane foam. If this is not done, cold “bridges” will form.

When insulating with penoplex or other similar material, the joints are taped. When insulating the floor inside the house, it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier made of foil polyethylene over the insulation. It is attached on top of the insulation with double-sided tape. It is necessary to provide a gap around the perimeter of the room 1 cm wide. It will not allow the screed to crack due to temperature changes. This seam can be covered with foam vinyl.

Floor installation

Well, the insulation is done, now you can start installing the floor. If you want to pour a cement screed, it is recommended to lay the insulation over the surface metal mesh. It will make the screed more durable and prevent it from cracking and crumbling over time. It is recommended to lay high-quality insulated linoleum or carpet on the screed.

If possible, it is best to use a wooden floor rather than a screed.

Thermal insulation materials: types and properties

To do this, logs are laid on top of the insulation, onto which the floorboards are attached. In this case, the air space between the insulation and the floor surface will create additional insulation. Floorboards should be chosen of good quality and installed according to all the rules, that is, tenon joints should be tightly adjusted using wedges. This will prevent gaps from forming between the floor boards.

Advantages of insulation

• dampness will disappear in the house, therefore, comfort will increase;

• even in winter cement floor you will be able to walk barefoot, which is important if there are small children in the house, because they play on the floor;

• heating costs will be significantly reduced.

Some nuances

When insulating an already built house, be prepared for the fact that you will have to rehang the doors, as the floor will rise. Of course, such work, like all other insulation work, requires a certain investment of money and time, but it pays off handsomely. In addition, you can do everything yourself, which will save you a lot.

Video: Insulating the floor in a private house - tips and tricks

How to level the walls in a private house yourself?

How to insulate a facade wooden house? Instructions

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the inside and what are the disadvantages of internal insulation? Materials for walls, floors and ceilings

Insulating a wooden house from the inside is advisable, unless the owner does not want to spoil the natural beauty of the natural material from the outside.

It is a pity to cover a log house or a facade made of timber with other finishing material, and in this case it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside. Internal work includes insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, taking into account the number of floors and the attic and roof.

For insulating a house from the inside, they are only suitable for environmental protection. safe materials to keep the indoor microclimate healthy.

Review of types and characteristics of insulation materials, their areas of application

It is allowed to use safer penofol, as well as universal material for insulation of any buildings and structures with mineral wool.

Advantages of insulating a wooden house from the inside

The main advantage has already been mentioned above. This is an opportunity to leave the facade of the house in in kind. In addition, the floors inside the house can be insulated, which is very important for maintaining a healthy indoor microclimate.

Why can’t you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Of course, you can do this, but external insulation has a number of advantages over internal insulation.

Experts advise using this insulation method in isolated cases when external insulation is actually impossible. This is explained by a number of shortcomings, which should be mentioned in more detail.

The main disadvantage of internal thermal insulation in a wooden house is the shift of the dew point deeper into the wall. This will further lead to the formation of mold there and rotting of the wood.

Among other disadvantages, the following are important:

• lack of natural ventilation of the walls;
• violation of the indoor microclimate;
• reduction of usable area of ​​the house.

In addition, none of the insulation materials, except jute and felt, can be considered 100% environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. But if this is not possible, you need to choose the most suitable materials for internal insulation.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Warm seam

Special sealant for log cabins. Used indoors to insulate seams between logs on the facade and ceiling. Relevant if the owner wants to keep the log house in its original form, without covering it with finishing materials.

Warm seam for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and caulk the seams with them.

The cost of caulking seams inside a house ranges from 120 to 250 rubles per linear meter. This is a very affordable price even for families with a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house; only they can guarantee high quality works

Mineral wool

A universal insulation material that is most often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for both walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

• high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials where formaldehyde is replaced with safer components;
• affordable cost the material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
• good thermal insulation and noise insulation properties;
• non-flammability;
• durability the material does not rot and is not susceptible to fungal diseases;
• good vapor permeability indicators, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Negative properties include:

• the same vapor permeability, due to which a microclimate unfavorable for human lungs can be created indoors;
• shrinkage when wet;
• the need to cover the walls with facing material (to create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with a vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside. This will create additional natural ventilation insulation. Even if it gets wet, the cotton wool will be able to dry due to the permeability properties of the vapor barrier.

A sheathing, beam or metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (it is also possible under it), onto which it is already attached facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation timber and so on.

Expanded polystyrene

Polymer material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components. Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

The photo shows extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

Features of insulation with polystyrene foam

When choosing this material, you may encounter concepts such as foamed and extruded polystyrene foam. Essentially, this is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of polystyrene foam insulation are the need to carefully level the surface and seal the seams between the sheets. Old boards need to be cleaned of unevenness and roughness, and the material is not suitable at all for a log house.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam has dried. Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

Polyurethane foam

The material of the future, which is applied in liquid form using a special apparatus. To insulate with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to install a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It hardens quickly and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but will also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fire.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material. It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Insulation of floors in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The Warm Floor system using IR film is expensive, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which also creates special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and poured floors

Insulation with expanded clay and pouring concrete are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors. The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there will be a way to insulate the facade externally, and then the only work left inside will be to insulate the floors.

Soundproofing walls in an apartment, modern materials for which can be found in hardware stores today, is becoming more and more relevant. This is explained simply - fences in multi-storey standard buildings are not able to completely protect the home from external street noise and from sounds coming from neighboring apartments.

Medical scientists It has long been noted that the presence of constant noise has an extremely negative effect on the human psyche, preventing him from getting complete relaxation and rest. That is why, unable to withstand the constant sound pressure, many city residents, especially those who live in panel houses, begin an active search for a suitable soundproofing material that will meet all the requirements for its use in apartments.

Almost all modern acoustic materials are made on the same basic principles as traditional ones. However, they have undergone significant improvements due to recent production technologies.

Today a very large number of new soundproofing materials, and it is simply impossible to cover the characteristics of everyone in one article. Therefore, attention will be focused on the most effective ones, which are used specifically in apartment conditions.

Thin sound insulation MaxForteSoundPRO

When the area of ​​an apartment or room does not limit the choice of materials, and you can install sound insulation of any thickness, this is convenient. But what if you can’t afford to waste precious centimeters of living space?

In this case, the innovative thin soundproofing material MaxForte SoundPRO is suitable for you. It has a thickness of only 12 mm, while its characteristics can compete with sound insulation with a thickness of 5 and even 10 cm! MaxForte SoundPRO is the latest material created specifically for sound insulation of residential and industrial premises.

Specialists from the Research Institute of Building Physics and the Department of Acoustics, Faculty of Physics, Moscow State University, took part in the development of the material. When manufacturing MaxForte SoundPRO, all important points for efficient work material: the optimal density was selected (if the density is low, the sound will pass through, if the density is too high, along the “skeleton”), the length of the fibers, their thickness. The sound-absorbing layer is calibrated and uniform over the entire area. The material is completely non-flammable. The composition does not contain harmful phenol-formaldehyde resins or any adhesives. Therefore, in addition to excellent noise insulation properties, MaxForte SoundPRO is safe for health.

MaxForte SoundPRO provides an increase in noise insulation from both airborne noise (loud TV, crying child, screaming neighbors) and impact noise (noise from stomping, grinding furniture, falling objects). It can be used to soundproof ceilings, walls and floors, which will give a significant increase of up to 64 dB!

Installation of thin sound insulation is very simple, and not only professionals can handle it, but also anyone who has ever held a hammer drill and a screwdriver in their hand.

MaxForte SoundPRO is mounted on the wall using ordinary plastic mushroom dowels, which can be purchased at any hardware store. It is hung on the wall using the “joint-to-joint” technology, after which it is covered with a layer of gypsum fiber board (gypsum fiber sheet). All sheet seams must be sealed with a special vibroacoustic non-hardening sealant. Afterwards, the sound insulation is sewn up with a layer of gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard sheet). Seams GVL sheets and gypsum boards should be in a different direction, that is, not coincide.

You can see the installation of thin sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO in the video.

Video - How to install thin sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO

Thin wall soundproofing panelsSoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol

SoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol panels are a unique material for soundproofing walls and ceilings, which allows you to achieve silence in the apartment and not lose useful space.

SoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol panels are made of durable multi-layer cardboard profiles based on the honeycomb principle, which are filled with thermally treated mineral quartz sand. The quartz filler used is very fine, exactly the same as an hourglass. It is this filler that makes it possible to achieve an impressive weight of the panel - more than 18 kg per m2, and according to the laws of sound insulation, the heavier the material, the worse it transmits sound (cotton wool transmits sound very well, and for example brick wall or steel door much worse). In addition to its weight, quartz sand, due to its fine fraction, perfectly dampens and absorbs almost all frequencies of sound - from airborne to shock.

How to install panelsSoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol?

Installation of the panels is very simple and almost anyone can handle it. are attached to the wall using SoundGuard DAP acoustic anchors, which are driven into pre-drilled holes through the panel in the wall. After this, all seams and joints are coated with sealant and the entire wall is covered with plasterboard.

Mineral sound-absorbing material "Shumanet-BM"

This soundproofing material made from basalt fibers, is considered a premium mineral sound-absorbing board. One side of the mat is laminated with a layer of fiberglass, which helps maintain the integrity of the slab and hold the internal basalt fibers in one position to prevent their small particles from entering the room. This is especially important in cases where the sound-absorbing material will be covered with perforated acoustic panels.

Packaging of soundproofing boards “Shumanet”

Plates " Schumanet BM" are manufactured in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 23 — 03-2003 “Noise protection”. They have the following technical and operational characteristics:

	Indicators
Standard slab size (mm)	1000×500 or 1000×600
Slab thickness (mm)	50
Material density (kg/m³)	45
Number of slabs per package (pcs.)	4
Area of ​​slabs in one package (m²)	2.0 or 2.4
Weight of one package (kg)	4.2÷5.5
Packaging volume (m³)	0.1 ÷ 0.12
Sound absorption coefficient (average)	0.95
Flammability (GOST 30244-94)	NG (non-flammable)
Water absorption when partially immersed in water for 24 hours, % of total volume	No more than 1÷3%

Acoustic tests to determine the sound absorption coefficient were carried out in the measurement laboratory of the Moscow Research Institute of Building Physics at the Russian Academy of Architecture and Construction Sciences.

The basis of “Shumanet” is basalt fibers

Having a low degree moisture absorption, this soundproofing material can be used not only in rooms with normal humidity, but also, for example, in the bathroom. In addition, it is excellent for soundproofing tension and suspended ceilings, and, of course, walls and multilayer partitions made in the form of a sandwich from plasterboard, plywood, fiberboard and other sheet materials.

Soundproofing walls using Schumanet BM

Installation of the slabs of this sound insulator follows the same principle as all types of mineral wool. However, one must take into account the fact that the material will be used primarily as sound absorber, and only then is considered as additional insulation.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• On the prepared surface, markings are made to secure the sheathing elements. Since the width of the mats is 500 mm, and they must stand apart between the bars, the distance between the guides should be 450 ÷ 480 mm. If mats 600 mm wide are purchased, then, accordingly, the distance between the bars should be 550 ÷ 580 mm.
• Next, the sheathing elements themselves are fixed, but at the same time, in order not to weaken the basic qualities of the soundproofing material, experienced craftsmen advise following a number of simple recommendations:

— For lathing, it is best to use wooden beams rather than metal profiles, since metal is a good conductor of sound and can resonate, and wood tends to dampen sound waves.

— Additionally, in order not to create bridges for the passage of sound, it is recommended to make gaskets from thin sound-proofing material, for example, felt or strips, between the wall and the sheathing bars basalt wool 8 ÷ 10 mm thick.

— If, after all, a metal profile is chosen for the sheathing, then it is better to move it away from the wall with a soundproofing pad by 12 ÷ 15 mm.

- In the case that the area soundproof the room is large enough, and it is possible to move the sheathing for sound-absorbing material and cladding 100 mm from the wall, then special ones can be used to fasten the bars details - hangers. They are screwed to the wall through wooden spacers, and the bars are already fixed in them.

Another option is the use of special suspensions, which are designed specifically for noise-absorbing structures. Structurally, such a product already has a special damper layer that effectively dampens vibrations without transferring them to the frame guides.

Special suspension used for soundproofing work

If guide bars secured in the manner indicated above, then the soundproofing mats are mounted in two layers. The first of them is installed behind the sheathing elements, close to the wall, and the second is installed between the guides.

Double-layer placement of “Shumanet” panels

• Ultimately, upon completion of installation of the Schumanet BM panels, the walls should look like this:

Next, on top of the mats soundproofing material is fixed vapor permeable diffuse membrane. Then they proceed to the installation of plasterboard or plywood sheets, which, in turn, will become the basis for finishing work. However, it is quite possible to replace this multi-layering by fastening it directly to the guide lathing of wooden decorative lining.

Next, the wall is covered with a diffuse membrane and covered with plasterboard or plywood

It should be noted that all sound and heat insulating materials made in mats or rolls are mounted on walls according to the same principle.

Video: advantages of soundproofing mineral slabs " Schumanet»

"Texound" - a new direction in sound insulation technology

"Texound" is not yet as popular as mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, since it is a relatively new sound insulator. The most important advantage of Texound over others soundproofing materials is that it practically does not “steal” the usable area of ​​the room, since it is small in thickness.

The main advantage of Texound is the highest efficiency of sound insulation with a small thickness of the material itself

This sound insulator is used for all surfaces of the room - it is fixed to the ceiling and walls, and also laid on the floor.

It should be noted that some craftsmen use Texound in combination with thermal insulation materials, and such a combination only increases the effectiveness of its use. But, unfortunately, the rooms in apartments most often do not have extra space that can be given over to a “powerful” multi-layer sound and heat insulating structure. In this regard, a material was developed that is able to protect rooms from excess noise without reducing the room in size.

To achieve the desired effect and protect the room from outside sounds, it is necessary to cover all surfaces of the room with soundproofing material, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve the desired result.

Texaund was developed in Spain by specialists from the well-known company TEXSA, and its mass production began there industrial production. It is in this country that the largest deposit of the mineral aragonite, which is the main raw material, is located.

To be more precise, the basic component is calcium carbonate (CaCO³). Aragonite is very rich in this compound. In addition, calcium carbonate is the main component of many calcareous rocks, including chalk, marble and others.

Harmless components are used as binding components. polymer compositions, and as a result, high-density membranes are obtained, but at the same time very flexible and elastic, with pronounced visco-elastic qualities, which is extremely important for sound insulation of complex building structures.

Soundproofing rooms with this material is very effective even if canvases of very small thickness are used. “Texound” is capable of absorbing and dispersing even high-intensity sound waves that come not only from the outside, but are also created indoors, for example, with very loud music.

Texaunda canvas covered with protective film

“Texound” is produced in sheets (membranes) and goes on sale in rolls packaged in polyethylene. It has the following technical and operational characteristics:

Name of material parameters	Indicators
Material density (kg/m³)	1900
Average specific weight of the canvas (kg/m²)	6.9
Area covered by one package (m²)	6.1
Weight of one package (kg)	42
Sound insulation coefficient Rw (average)	28
Flammability (GOST 30244-94)	G2
Elongation at break (%)	300
Manufacturing materials	mineral aragonite, plasticizers, polyolefins, spunbond

In addition, the material has the following advantages:

• "Texaund" is resistant to temperature changes. Its elasticity does not decrease at all even with negative temperatures up to - 20 °C .
• The material has pronounced flexibility and ductility, and in this way “Texound” is somewhat reminiscent of rubber.

"Texound" with its plasticity resembles dense rubber

• The material is resistant to moisture and will never become an area for mold or mildew to spread, as it has antiseptic properties.
• The operating time of the Texound is not limited.
• Texound combines well with other materials and can be used in a complex system.

“Texound” is divided according to its thickness, size and release form, and may have additional layers that improve its characteristics. The main brands are presented in the table:

Name	Sound insulator release form	Linear parameters of the material, mm
"Texound 35"	roll	1220×8000×1.8
"Texound 50"	roll	1220×8000×1.8
"Texound 70"	roll	1220×6000×2.6
"Texound100"	sheet	1200×100×4.2
"Texound SY 35"	Self-adhesive roll	1220×8000×3.0
"Texound SY 50"	Self-adhesive roll	1220×6050×2.6
"Texound SY 50 AL"	Foil self-adhesive roll	1200×6000×2.0
"Texound SY 70"	Self-adhesive roll	1200×5050×3.8
"Texound SY100"	Self-adhesive sheet	1200×100×4.2
"Texound FT 55 AL"	With felt and foil layer, roll	1220×5500×15.0
"Texound FT 40"	With felt layer	1220×6000×12.0
"Texound FT 55"	With felt layer	1200×6000×14.0
"Texound FT 75"	With felt layer	1220×5500×15.0
"Texound 2FT 80"	With two felt layers	1200×5500×24.0
"Texound S BAND-50"	Self-adhesive tape	50×6000×3.7
Homakoll glue intended for Texound	Canister	8 liters

Installation of "texound"

Almost any base is suitable for installation of this material - concrete, plasterboard, plastic, wood, metal and others. The main thing is that the surface is well prepared - leveled, cleaned of old coatings, primed and dried.

If there is a high-quality layer of plaster on the wall, then it must be primed, and then installation can be carried out directly on it.

The work can be carried out in two ways. In the first of them, only soundproofing material is used, and in the second, it is used in combination with a heat insulator.

The first option - without additional insulation

• Glue is applied to the prepared surface. To install the texound, a special assembly adhesive, which is sold in ready-to-use liquid form in canisters. After coating, you must wait 15-20 minutes until the glue sets.

Marking and cutting of Texound canvases

• Next, the soundproofing material itself is mounted on the glued wall, which must be measured and cut in advance, and also pre-coated with glue.

Special glue is applied both to the surface of the wall and to the Texound canvas itself.

• If you purchase self-adhesive material, then installation will be much easier, since there is no need for glue, and you just need to remove the protective film and attach the material to the wall.
• Next, the texaund sheet needs to be pressed as tightly as possible to the surface, and then additionally walked over it with a roller. This must be done to achieve better adhesion to the wall surface over the entire area, without leaving air bubbles.

Welding Texound joints using a gas torch

• Texound canvases must be overlapped by approximately 50 mm. The sheets are glued together hermetically. This process is carried out using liquid nails glue or by heating the material with hot air or gas burner– adjacent sheets are welded. If during installation even small gaps are left between the panels, the effectiveness of sound insulation will be significantly reduced.

Doorway completely finished with Texound

• If Texound is installed on the ceiling, then it is glued in small sheets, since the material is quite heavy, and it will simply be impossible to hold a single sheet from wall to wall.
• After gluing the canvas, if necessary, it is additionally fixed to the wall with fastenings - “fungi”, the same ones that are most often used for installing polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

The second option is using thermal insulation

Complex installation is carried out if the wall needs not only soundproof, but also insulate. If there is such a task, then the work is carried out as follows:

• The sheathing frame is attached to the primed wall along the edges.

Texound frame around the perimeter of the wall

• The next step is to immediately glue Texound onto the entire wall in one version, and in the other, heat-insulating material is pre-laid. However, the first method shows higher efficiency specifically for sound insulation.
• If thermal insulation is adjacent to the wall, the “texaund” is first secured with “fungi”, and then additionally pressed with strips of metal hangers.

Fixing Texound panels with mushroom dowels

• To achieve the required space for installing the insulating material, the metal profile of the frame is fixed into hangers at a distance of 40÷50 mm from the wall. In this case, it is necessary to set each of the profiles according to construction level, otherwise the frame skin will not be smooth.

Installation of a metal frame on top of soundproofing panels

• The next stage is the installation of insulation. The most environmentally safe of suitable insulation materials that can be installed independently is considered to be basalt-based mineral wool. If financial allow facilities, then you can use the above-described “Shumanet BM”, which is not only sound-absorbing, but a good thermal insulation material.

• It fits tightly between the sheathing posts and is pressed against the Texound mounted on the wall.
• Upon completion of the installation of insulation, the wall should look like this:

• It is advisable to tighten the insulation vapor permeable diffuse membrane.
• The next stage is . In some cases Plywood or OSB sheets are used for cladding.
• The sheets are fastened to the sheathing posts using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the sheathing material by 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.

• Then the joints and holes from the screw heads are sealed with putty.
• Next, the surface is primed and puttied completely, and after that you can decorate the walls with decorative material.

Drywall is the most comfortable material for leveling walls

The wall that received soundproofing and insulating protection, it is necessary to prepare for further work– achieve a smooth surface that will become the basis for finishing materials. As well as in special publications on our portal.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Existing texound installation schemes

Craftsmen use various installation schemes for this sound insulator. Depending on the convenience of performing the work, the area of ​​the room and the required efficiency of insulating the walls from external noise, you can choose any of them. The only disadvantage of these structures is their thickness, which even in the most best case scenario will be at least 50 mm.

First option

This design will have a thickness of 50 mm.

• They begin to install it by covering the prepared metal profiles on the side of their contact with the wall with self-adhesive tape “Texound S BAND 50”. This must be done in order to avoid the transmission of sound and vibrations from the wall through the metal frame into the room.
• Next, the frame elements are fixed to the wall with dowels, and heat-insulating, sound-absorbing mats are mounted between them.
• Then, soundproofing material is glued to the plasterboard sheets on the inside. In this case, Texound 70 is suitable.
• After that. drywall is fixed to the frame posts, and its seams are sealed with putty.

Second option

The thickness of the structure with this option will be 60 mm.

• In this case, first a thin heat insulator is attached to the wall. You can use foil insulation, installing it with the reflective surface towards the room. The insulation should cover the joints of the wall with the floor and ceiling, that is, extend to them by 150÷200 mm.
• On top of it is produced installation of a metal frame, which just like in the first design option, it is attached to the wall.
• Next, insulation mats are laid into the frame, which are covered with plasterboard with Texound 70 glued to it.

It should be noted here that the thermal insulation material attached to the wall can be replaced with Texound FT 75, which has an additional layer of felt.

Third option

The thickness of the third design option is 70 ÷ 80 mm, since it consists of more layers.

• The first layer of thermal insulation material is installed on the wall.
• The second layer is the Texound sound-absorbing membrane.
• A sheathing is mounted on top of it.
• Then the insulation mats are installed.
• The last layer on the structure is sandwich panels, consisting of two sheets of plasterboard, between which Texound is laid.

When purchasing soundproofing material of this type, it is recommended to provide the consultant of the selling company with the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. A sales consultant will help you make the right choice by determining the thickness and best form of Texound release.

Video: using Texaund for soundproofing in an apartment

Using foam mats as sound insulation

The most effective affordable material for soundproofing walls in an apartment can be called acoustic foam rubber. Due to its porous structure, this material perfectly absorbs and dissipates sound vibrations.

Acoustic foam rubber is capable of neutralizing two types of noise - sound and vibration waves, that is, it muffles sound and dissipates low frequencies arising from vibrations of surfaces, for example, knocking or “bass” of music.

The material is quite durable and can be installed either as an independent soundproofing material or in combination with drywall. Foam mats are available in a wide range of sizes and can be textured or have a flat surface.

Foam rubber is made by pressing polyurethane foam, after which it is cut into standard blocks measuring 1000 × 2000 mm. The thickness of the mats varies from 10 to 120 mm. Material domestic production is available in two or three colors, while imported options have a more varied color scheme, including 10÷12 colors.

Types of material relief

The types of relief patterns of acoustic foam rubber can be different. Both the total thickness of the material and its sound-absorbing properties.

The main types of reliefs used for the purpose of soundproofing rooms are presented in the tables below:

Material relief height (mm)	25	50	70	100
"Wedge"
	For moderate sound insulation of walls and ceilings.	Effective for absorbing standing sound waves and echoes in medium to small rooms.	For effective soundproofing of rooms of any size.	To absorb low frequencies, most often used in large halls.
"Pyramid"
	For moderate protection of walls against penetration of high and medium frequencies.	Protection against standing waves in small spaces. In combination with traps for low frequencies, they can completely soundproof a room.	Suitable for rooms of any size and used in conjunction with additional elements soundproofing such as sound traps.	Same characteristics as wedge material type

There are other, less commonly used elements made from acoustic foam.

Name of relief type	Characteristics
"Peak"	This mat relief is less popular and has an unusual pattern. Its lack of demand is explained by lower soundproofing qualities than those of the materials mentioned above.
"Bass Trap"	Low-frequency waves are more difficult to dampen because they are longer. For this purpose, bass traps are installed in each corner of the room, which are designed for rooms of any size.
"Treble and Mid Frequency Traps"	These elements are installed in large halls. They are designed to capture medium and high frequencies, and create a low-frequency dispersion effect. They are installed in a vertical position, but if the blocks are cut in half and installed in the corners, they will become low frequency traps.
"Corner block"	Corner blocks are produced in the form of a triangular beam. They are installed in the corners of the room and at the junctions of two surfaces, and also serve to dissipate low frequencies.
Decorative ceiling tiles	They are produced with or without a relief pattern. They are designed to change the relief and shape of the ceiling, thereby achieving an additional soundproofing effect.
Insulating wedges	Used to reduce vibrations from studio equipment and used as a substrate for it.

Until recently, acoustic foam rubber was rarely used in apartments, since the material tends to accumulate dust. But in recent years, more and more residents of panel houses are choosing foam rubber to reduce the sound conductivity of the walls. Thanks to its high sound-absorbing and dissipating properties, this material can make a room almost completely soundproof, provided it is installed not only on walls, but also on the surface of the ceiling and floor.

It is very important to note that acoustic foam rubber does not lose any of its soundproofing qualities when it is covered with plasterboard. The main condition in creating such a structure is that the foam mats themselves must be glued directly to the base of the wall, without any lining.

Soundproofing walls with acoustic foam

Installing foam rubber on walls is not too complicated, so you can easily do it yourself. In this case, it is worth considering the most acceptable method of sound insulation for apartment conditions, but it should immediately be noted that the area of ​​the room will be slightly reduced.

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

• To make the foam stick easily, it is best to prime the wall surface and dry it well.
• Next, the mats need to be fixed to the wall. They must fit tightly to its surface, otherwise the sound insulation effect will be partially lost.

• You can glue foam mats using wide double-sided mounting tape, “liquid nails” or heated silicone.
• When all the walls are covered with foam mats, you can proceed to the installation of frame sheathing made of metal profiles or wooden beams. The frame guides are mounted at a distance of 50÷60 mm from the wall.
• The racks are mounted in the recesses of the relief pattern directly to the wall. Holes for fastenings are drilled directly through the foam.
• After fixing the frame of the sheathing, sheets of plasterboard, plywood, PVC panels or other finishing materials are fixed to the guides. This will not in any way reduce the sound absorption efficiency of the foam layer, since it will be the first to receive all sound waves coming from outside, absorb them and dissipate them.
• In the same way, the foam rubber is mounted on the lathing. The lathing is installed directly on it, and then one of the types of suspended ceilings is fixed.
• On the floor, logs are laid on top of acoustic foam rubber, on which a plank or plywood floor is laid. Further, if desired, laminate, linoleum, carpeting or other decorative covering can be laid on the plywood.

It should be noted that the installation of acoustic mats does not require serious preparatory work. repair work, and if the decision is made to leave the foam panels in open form, then their installation will generally take no more than one day.

The exposed material will require frequent cleaning with a powerful vacuum cleaner to prevent large amounts of dust from accumulating within the porous material. If one of the panels comes away from the wall for some reason, it can be quickly and without special preparation glued into place.

In addition to the soundproofing materials considered, there are others in the assortment of construction stores. But today, acoustic foam rubber, Texaund membranes, Schumanet slabs and similar sound insulators can be called the most effective and safest for installation in an apartment.

Return