If previously almost all citizens used the balcony to store old and unnecessary things, now the situation has changed. Apartment owners are trying to get additional living space, so they are converting the balcony space. Some residents install a roof, others install glazing, others insulate the space, etc. However, this is not enough to obtain a full-fledged living space. Balcony waterproofing is required.
Why do you need waterproofing for a balcony?
The balcony is more susceptible to negative influence weather conditions than other areas of the apartment. Waterproofing will protect the space from unpleasant humidity, fungus and dampness. If you use high-quality waterproofing materials and carry out the work correctly, you can provide reliable protection to the walls, ceiling and roof of your balcony.
In the vast majority of cases (95%), a concrete slab serves as the balcony base. High-quality waterproofing open balcony makes it possible to increase the service life of a structure exposed to an aggressive environment by one and a half times. If this is not done, you may incur financial losses in the future.
Because reinforced concrete has a porous structure, and inside it there is an embedded metal element. At sub-zero temperature water enters these pores and begins to break off metal microparticles. Corrosion occurs and the metal is destroyed. Waterproofing prevents destructive processes.
It is performed for floor slabs (processed from below and above), parapet (at the same time vapor insulation is done), and roof (the rafter system is processed).
If you understand the importance of this operation, let's move on and see how to waterproof a balcony in accordance with existing technology.
Materials for waterproofing balconies
First, let's look at the necessary materials.
It all depends on the finish balcony design. If the surface of the balcony is made of concrete/wood, penetrating compounds are used. If polyurethane/stone/tiles are present, a coating material is used.
Varieties waterproofing materials the following:
- Cast insulation;
- Pasted insulation;
- Paint insulation;
- Impregnation.
Any of these materials will perfectly protect the balcony space from negative influence water/moisture.
Cast insulation has a water-repellent composition. When choosing it, a heated polymer is used. It is used to treat the floor of the balcony. It can quickly become damaged and lose its integrity.
By adhesive insulation we mean material in the form of a roll. It is overlapped over the entire balcony surface. Joints are treated with special mastic. To give waterproofing strength and effectiveness, it is laid in several layers.
Paint insulation is characterized by ease of use. Another plus is the low cost of the material. However, we do not recommend using it on a wooden surface. At sub-zero temperatures it may crack and the waterproofing layer will have to be renewed.
An excellent material for waterproofing wood/concrete surfaces is impregnation. It penetrates inside and ensures the safety of the structure. However, when treating a wooden surface, warm and dry weather is required. The applied impregnation should dry well.
Preparatory work for waterproofing a balcony
Having chosen the material, we get to work. You can entrust it to a specialist, but waterproofing a balcony does not require special qualifications; you can do it yourself and reduce the repair budget.
Except preparatory stage, there are three more: treatment of the floor, the interior surface of the room, the canopy/roof/gutters.
Preparation includes the following types works:
- We dismantle the old covering;
- We analyze the condition of the concrete base, identifying areas of unsuitability;
- We remove them with a punch;
- We clean the surface of debris with a stiff brush and remove any remaining cement/old glue;
- We treat cracks with a grinder. This is necessary so that the new screed fills all kinds of voids. We expand a small crack, trim a large one;
- We clean the exposed reinforcement rust chemical compounds and remove the remaining concrete;
- We coat the fittings with an anti-corrosion compound;
- We prime the floor surface;
- We fill the holes with cement-sand mortar;
- We inspect the roof of the balcony and determine possible places of water penetration;
- Clean the surface of the ceiling/walls;
- We apply a primer with a waterproofing material.
Waterproofing the floor on the balcony
Waterproofing the floor prevents moisture from penetrating from below. This is especially important for owners of apartments located on the first floors of buildings. The moisture may come from the basement/ground. We clear the floor of debris/dust and create a concrete screed. If the balcony is open, its slope must be 2% so that water flows freely from the surface. Metal mesh we reinforce the screed.
All seams that appear during the work process are filled with mastic 50% to seal. We clean the screed from debris/dust and apply WB primer to it to ensure good adhesion. We cover the moistened concrete with several layers of polyurethane mastic.
We wait for the insulation to dry and lay it overlapping vapor barrier material made from foil. This way we prevent the formation of condensation. Put it on top wooden frame. It is attached to it with self-tapping screws OSB board. Finishing work– installation on the balcony floor finishing material.
The thickness of the waterproofing should not be less than 20 mm and must extend up to 200 mm onto the walls.
Waterproofing the wall on the balcony
Before waterproofing works Using a grinder, we select U-shaped grooves in the interpanel seams and seal them with Hermoplast. This way we eliminate leakage through microcracks. Then we attach the decorative coverings.
Then we glue the foil-coated polystyrene foam tightly to the wall. The second option is ordinary polystyrene foam, which is covered with a layer of vapor barrier film. Joints form between sheets of foam. We seal them. To reliably protect against moisture, apply 2 layers of mastic.
Partitions
It is possible that there are additional partitions/other structures on your balcony. Then they should also be waterproofed. The operating principle is similar.
Waterproofing the ceiling on the balcony
We clean the ceiling slab and treat it with an antiseptic to protect the structure from the formation of fungal mold. Then the surface is treated with a coating/penetrating insulating compound. We seal all the cracks and cracks in the ceiling with silicone.
We fill the joints of the wall with the floor slabs with sealant. When finishing the roof with tiles/metal tiles, each joint is additionally treated with polyurethane mastic. It has good adhesion and is easy to apply to a damp ceiling surface. We recommend two layers of mastic. The second layer should be perpendicular to the first. After the first layer, the waterproofing layer is reinforced with mesh. We give the mastic 3 days so that it dries well and hardens. This will create a durable crystalline protective layer.
For residents of the top floors, we recommend laying a layer of roofing material on top of the balcony roof or covering it roofing mastic. We recommend calling specialists to waterproof your roof. We do not recommend doing this work yourself. This is life-threatening.
Waterproofing a wooden balcony
Waterproofing wooden balcony involves treating the boards with a special antiseptic to prevent excessive moisture and the appearance of fungus on the surface. It is allowed to cover the floor with a wall liquid rubber onto the base followed by processing with finishing material.
Waterproofing helps prevent the development of mold and reduce the decorative value of the tree. The material will begin to lose strength and attractiveness. The coating will become deformed and it will be impossible to return it to its original state. appearance. Waterproofing a wooden balcony will prevent swelling and prevent cracks from appearing, which will lead to the destruction of the structure.
The technology of work depends on functional purpose balcony and its view.
In this article we looked at the process of self-waterproofing a balcony. We hope that you will be able to use the specified technology.
When constructing balconies and level terraces, developers often make mistakes in the structure of the base. As a result, leaks and freezing of the balcony slab subsequently occur, which ultimately leads to its destruction.
The base of any terrace or balcony should have a slope in the opposite direction from the house to ensure natural drainage of precipitation. If this is not done, then the water will stagnate, saturate the underlying layers of the base, and if negative temperatures expand and tear the concrete.
The required slope of 1.5-2% can already be achieved by the balcony slab itself or the floor slab of a level terrace. Or a slope-forming layer in the form of a screed is made on a horizontally mounted slab.
Specified minimum slope so small that the technological layers located above will not slide off spontaneously. The slope-forming layer at its thinnest point cannot be thinner than 3.5-4 cm. Otherwise, it may begin to crumble. Thus, with a 3-meter wide terrace, the thickness of the slope-forming layer at the edge of the wall with a 2% slope is 10 cm. The mass of this layer can be significant, so it should be taken into account in design calculations.
The presence of a slope is only required condition, and the integrity of the structure cannot be ensured by it alone. An important point is the waterproofing of the base. Modern market offers a range of materials that can be used to effectively waterproof balcony slab or floor slab of a level terrace. It can be like all kinds waterproofing mastics, and rolled materials (films and membranes). In order to avoid mistakes in creating a floor “pie” and not throw money away, you need to strictly follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and withstand technological interruptions.
Structure of the base of a level terrace
A level terrace means a wide balcony located above a room or on a base supported by pillars. If the room located under such a terrace is used, then its ceiling (aka the base of the terrace) must be insulated. IN in this case you can combine the insulating layer with the slope-forming layer if you use special polystyrene foam wedges. If a slope-forming screed is made or the floor slabs themselves already have a minimal slope, then insulation is performed with slabs of regular or extruded polystyrene foam or foam glass. The last two insulation materials are more preferable in this case, since they have practically no water absorption, but they are correspondingly more expensive. Expanded polystyrene for insulating the floor of a level terrace is grade PSB-S-35 and higher.
As an example, consider standard option floor pie of an open level terrace located above the used premises.
The lowest layer is the floor slab (1). It can be installed with or without an outward slope. The advantage of the first option is that there is no need to create a slope-forming layer (2), which will additionally load the ceiling if it is cement screed.
A layer of vapor barrier (3) made of construction film or roofing felt is laid on top of the slab or the slope-forming screed made on it, which will protect the insulation from moisture by water vapor diffused outward from the living space. This vapor barrier must be installed on the wall to the level of the door threshold.
The insulation (4) is laid in a total layer of 12-20 cm with offset seams.
On top, the insulation is protected from moisture by a layer of waterproofing (5). This can be polyethylene or polypropylene construction film with a thickness of 0.2 mm. It also performs a separating function, allowing the overlying clamping screed (6) and the insulating layer to work independently of each other.
The pressure layer (6) is a reinforced cement screed 4-5 cm thick. The reinforcement is made in the form of a mesh with 10x10 cm cells made of 3 mm steel rods. Expansion joints must be provided in the pressure layer: wall and forced. The latter divide the screed into sections of about 4 m². The width of forced seams is 10-12 mm, and wall seams are at least 15 mm. Forced expansion joints in reinforced screed carried out using preliminary laying of metal corners, which are removed after cement mortar will grab. When the screed has matured (at least 14 days), the seams are filled with an elastic cord (10), the diameter of which is slightly larger than the width of the seam. This cord must be inserted into the seam so that it does not reach the bottom of the groove, otherwise the stresses arising during the shrinkage process will be transferred to the lower layers, and this is undesirable. The upper part of the seam, remaining above the cord, is filled with an elastic mass, forming a concave meniscus on the surface.
On top of the pressure layer, continuous waterproofing (7) is performed, which is a waterproof seamless membrane made of polyurethane or mineral mass with a thickness of at least 2 mm.
The top finishing coating (14) is laid on top of the waterproofing layer. It may be frost resistant ceramic tile or terrace board. When laying a tile covering, it is necessary to provide expansion (temperature) joints, which are longitudinal slots about 10 mm wide, filled with a special elastic cord made of polyurethane or polyethylene. The seams can also be filled with acidic silicone for external use, forming a concave meniscus in the seam profile.
The weak link is waterproofing
Before application liquid waterproofing concrete base should be primed, which will reduce its hygroscopicity. Most often, mineral primers are used, penetrating into the base to a depth of 2 mm. Best result will be with double processing.
The most vulnerable areas of the foundation require more thorough waterproofing. These are primarily the corners (11), the connection to the wall and expansion joints. Sealing tapes (9) are laid in the above locations. Due to their elasticity and stability over a wide temperature range (+90…- 40C°), they are resistant to cracking. 
It is recommended to waterproof the terrace with polyurethane mastics or mineral mixtures (one- or two-component), since they have sufficient elasticity. The mastic should be applied in two layers with an interval of 4-8 hours. Coating waterproofing should cover the sealing tapes to a width of at least 2 cm. Waterproofing work should be carried out at a temperature not lower than -5°C and not higher than 25°C, and it is better in cloudy weather, since in the sun the material can become very hot and flow. Before applying it, be sure to read the manufacturer's recommendations for use. Some mastics are applied only to a dry base, but there are also those that are applied to a wet base. After application, protect the surface from direct sun rays for at least 12 hours.
Finishing covering for a terrace or balcony
Frost-resistant ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles - great options floor covering of a level terrace or balcony. They reliably protect waterproofing coating from mechanical damage and easy to clean. Tiles can be laid with an elastic adhesive solution (8) already 24 hours after applying the last layer of waterproofing. The tile joints are filled with frost-resistant elastic fugue (13).
Temperature (compensation) joints of the pressure plate can withstand even finishing coating. Their width, as a rule, is reduced, but remains consistent with the axis of the main seam. Neither adhesive solution, expansion joints between tiles cannot be filled with a fugue. This should be done with silicone sealant for exterior use. The same applies to the seams at the junctions with the wall (12).
On open terraces and balconies, the flooring will certainly heat up in the sun, and in order to reduce the maximum heating temperature, light-colored tiles should be used. Dark tiles are more likely to come off as a result of temperature changes.
Liquid waterproofing compounds differ in their degree of elasticity, and to ensure tightness, experts recommend covering expansion joints with sealing tapes. There are also materials on the market that allow you to refuse expansion joints, thanks to its high elasticity. This, in turn, makes it possible to use the same material - waterproof polyurethane glue - both as waterproofing and as an adhesive layer for the floor covering.
If previously the balcony was most often used as a storage room, now everyone is trying to remodel it and turn it into a cozy addition to their apartment. However, glazing the balcony and installing a roof on it is not enough. It is also necessary to waterproof it.
Purpose
Waterproofing a loggia or balcony open type in a private house or apartment needed for protection building materials from water, as well as for insulating the balcony. Water flows through cracks or seams in structures and causes the destruction of the balcony slab.
Therefore, these works are quite important in arranging a balcony. After all, waterproofing involves not only sealing seams, but also other aspects.
- Protecting the frame itself, as well as some wood products, with water-repellent agents. They are coated with special drying oils and enamels, as well as varnish.
- Arrangement of external ebb, which does not allow water to flow under the frame.
- Processing all wooden surfaces using antiseptics. This is necessary to protect against mold.
If waterproofing is done professionally or even independently, but following the advice of experts, then it will protect not only ceiling covering, but the floor and walls. In addition, if you insulate the balcony, you can thereby increase the strength of the structure and make your stay more comfortable.
Fortunately, in almost all cases the base of a balcony or loggia is made of concrete slab. If the floor is located in the middle of the building, then instead of the ceiling, the owners add another slab, which serves as the ceiling.
Device Features
High-quality waterproofing will help to cope with many troubles that await a person in the future. This includes mold and corrosion. metal elements and other finishing materials. It will also prevent the balcony flooring from deteriorating.
In order for waterproofing to be done correctly, it is necessary to take into account all the design features of the balcony.
You need to pay attention first of all to the following points:
- treatment of the entire balcony area;
- balcony slab covering;
- availability of additional protection.
For different types balconies can be used different types finishing. For open balconies in frame house or a brick building, it will be enough to waterproof one slab and floor. But if the balcony is in wooden house, then you will need to do waterproofing both inside and outside. This is also true for last floor, and for the one in the middle.
If the loggia is insulated, then it is additionally necessary to make a vapor barrier using penofol. The door also needs to be waterproofed. By insulating a balcony, you can insulate the floor, walls, ceiling, and the inner surface of the canopy.
Floor
Insulation and waterproofing of the floor can be done in different ways.
To begin with, you should pay attention to the first method.
- In this case, the coating mastic is applied to the balcony slab. It is required to protect the styling. During the work process, the floor is first leveled using concrete screed. If the balcony is open, then you must make a slope to drain the water.
- Then stacked wooden joists, as well as insulation. As an alternative, foam can be used. The resulting seams must be sealed. Fixed on top OSB boards s, which will serve as the basis for applying sealing. OSB boards need to be treated with a primer, or bitumen. This is done to ensure better adhesion.
- Then you need to dilute polyurethane mastic, which contains 2 components, and coat all corners with it.
- A tape consisting of geotextile is pressed into it. It reinforces the joints at the corners. Next, the first layer of insulation is applied to the entire plane of the OSB slabs, after which it must be reinforced with geotextiles. The second layer is built up gradually, its thickness reaches two centimeters.
- When the base is completely dry, a layer of polymer binder is applied. It is sprinkled with synthetic chips on top. After which they are sealed with varnish.
There is a second method of waterproofing. In this case, everything is done using roll materials. It can be either fiberglass or roofing felt. Here waterproofing can be done using penetrating mastic. When it crystallizes, it fills all the cracks and forms a very durable coating.
Walls
To waterproof the walls and partitions of a balcony or loggia, you can use foil polystyrene foam. It needs to be glued tightly to the wall. But regular foam plastic is also suitable, which needs to be covered with a vapor barrier film.
The joints that have formed between the sheets must be sealed. Next, two layers of mastic are applied to ensure reliable protection. Before starting waterproofing work, you must cut out U-shaped grooves with a grinder.
They must be made in the seams between the panels, and also additionally sealed. This is done to prevent moisture from entering the room through microcracks. At the end, a decorative coating is attached.
Ceiling
When the balcony is glazed, during precipitation there may be traces of water that will collect below. This happens if neither waterproofing nor sealing of the balcony has been done. To eliminate this problem, you just need to carry out waterproofing work. The first step is to seal the seams using polyurethane sealant.
But before removing the seams, you need to cut them with a grinder. Then the seams are cleaned of dust and then moistened with water.
If there are any stains on the surface of the ceiling, this means that there are cracks in those places through which water gets onto the balcony. You need to do the same with them.
The waterproofing of the ceiling itself begins with cleaning the surface. Then the ceiling is treated with an antiseptic to prevent mold. Then the seams are sealed, which is described above.
To insulate the ceiling, it is necessary to use polyurethane mastic, which has very good adhesion. The advantages of this material include the fact that it is easily applied to the ceiling. The mastic must be distributed in two layers so that the second layer is perpendicular to the first. And also after the first layer it is necessary to make mesh reinforcement. It takes three days for the mastic to harden well. At this time you need to pause renovation work on the balcony.
And also when insulating the roof, you can glue a sheet of foil polystyrene foam to the ceiling. He will also be responsible for the vapor barrier. The seams located between them must also be sealed.
Materials
Waterproofing work requires a thoughtful approach. Therefore, when choosing materials, it is necessary to very carefully analyze all the information about them. After all, many professionals say that waterproofing cannot be good or bad. It either exists or it doesn’t. The materials used for waterproofing work can be divided into several types. These are pasting or, in other words, rolled, coating, and painting materials.
Painting
Painted waterproofing can be of two types:
- cold, which contains epoxy rubber resins;
- hot, it contains bitumen-polymer varnishes.
It is often used to treat balcony terraces. It has properties to protect reinforced concrete floor from corrosion.
However, it is worth remembering that its service life is not too long. Therefore, after five or six years, the paint coating will need to be restored. And you also need to take into account the fact that severe frost it becomes very fragile.
To apply waterproofing, it is necessary to pre-treat the surface. To do this, it will be enough to clean it and degrease it. Next you need to apply a mastic primer in two layers. Finally, you need to paint the floors with a layer of bitumen of two millimeters.
Pasting
Roll waterproofing can be of two types.
- Welded, when laying which a burner is used.
- Self-adhesive insulation, which is more modern version. You can glue it yourself, and only remove protective film. None additional tools and no materials are needed. This option is reliable and durable. In order for everything to go right, you need to prepare the surface well and glue it very carefully.
The most common roll material is roofing felt. It is laid using a torch.
It is worth noting penofol and foam foil, which are polyethylene, moreover, porous and covered with lavsan film. If you waterproof a balcony using foam foil, it will last a long time, since moisture does not accumulate in it and it can reflect ultraviolet rays. It is also a heat insulator.
For example, if a balcony is made with four millimeter foam foil, then this will be equal in efficiency and protection from moisture to masonry of one and a half bricks. This means that the balcony will not need any additional insulation.
Coating
Today, coating materials are becoming very popular. It's pretty large group different means for insulation, which includes sealants, cement, bitumen or polymer mastics. Coating materials are very unpretentious to work with. Simply mix them and apply them to the surface with a spatula. Sand can be added to some formulations.
Very famous and popular today bitumen mastics. They consist of oxidized bitumen to which some solvents have been added. This is both crumb and latex, they increase the elasticity of waterproofing.
This insulation option is resistant to factors external influence. However, in order for the coating to be of high quality, it is necessary to follow it with a screed.
In addition to bitumen, there are also cement-polymer mastics. They are made by adding mineral fillers to them. The cement included in the composition ensures good adhesion to the base. Polymer fillers penetrate into the pores of the base and seal them. The result is a layer up to three millimeters thick.
Stages of work
When carrying out waterproofing work, it is very important not only to select the right materials, but also to carry out the work in correct sequence and in accordance with all rules.
The step-by-step instructions are very simple.
- First of all, in order for the waterproofing to be of high quality, it is necessary to clean all surfaces of the balcony from paint, dirt, dust and other substances that can impair adhesion. All this work can be done with a regular brush or even a vacuum cleaner.
- After preparatory work all surfaces are treated with a primer, in other words, a primer. It is applied to the surface with a brush, and then very carefully rubbed into absolutely all the cracks. Then, with a smaller brush, you need to process all the connecting seams. It is very important not to make a mistake in choosing a primer.
When preparing the foundation, you should follow the recommendations of specialists.
- The unevenness of the base should not be more than two millimeters.
- The surface must be smooth without sharp protrusions.
- The laying of leveling ties must be done in strips that will follow the guide beacons. Their width should be two or three meters.
- Before application cement materials On porous surfaces, be sure to moisten them with water using a sponge. This will prevent it from drying out quickly.
- The joints of vertical and horizontal surfaces must be sealed using sealing tape. When the structure diverges, it stretches, and when it returns to its original place, it contracts.
The humidity of the prepared base must be at least four percent. If you do not adhere to this rule, then excess moisture, which remains inside, may reduce the waterproofing after some time. Doing cement-sand screeds, you need to wait up to 28 days. This is done to prevent cracks.
The next step is the preparation of waterproofing mixtures. Some of them are already available finished form, and some you need to prepare yourself. Solutions cannot retain their properties long time, so they need to be made in small portions.
- prepare adhesive waterproofing and cut the pieces to the required size;
- heat it with a burner;
- cover roll waterproofing joints between the wall and the balcony.
To carry out work with coating materials, it is necessary to follow a certain sequence.
- The air and surface temperature should be at least fifteen degrees above zero. Air humidity should not exceed sixty percent. This temperature should be two days before the start of work and another twelve days after its completion.
- Waterproofing must be applied evenly to the surface of the balcony. This can be done with a spatula or roller.
- Drying time for the material may vary. This depends on the thickness of the layer, room humidity, and temperature conditions.
- To continue work, it is necessary to check whether the moisture content of the mixture corresponds to the permissible values that correspond to these materials.
To provide additional waterproofing, you need to install it on the balcony skylights, which are well hydro- and thermally insulated.
If the balcony is open, then it will be enough to waterproof only the floor. If this indoor balcony or loggia, then the insulation must be complete.
For balconies that are located above a bay window or other architectural elements, it is necessary to make waterproofing that has increased protection from natural influences. To do this, the balcony needs to be very carefully treated both outside and inside. At the end of the work, you need to make sure that there are no cracks or crevices left, which could soon lead to water seepage. After all, this will cause harm not only to the balcony, but also to the bay window located underneath it.
Expand usable space Any apartment can be built through the use of a loggia or balcony. Initially, such structures were not intended for year-round use, so temperature regime they seriously depend on external weather conditions. That is why, to make full use of this space, it is necessary to take care of insulating the loggia or balcony.
The basic thermal insulation schemes of both design options differ little. The main differences lie in the need to construct a frame wall for balconies that do not have a permanent external fence, and to insulate the parapet for loggias that are bounded on all sides by concrete structures.
Basic thermal insulation schemes
Regardless of the type of structure, protecting it from heat loss can be done in two ways:
- from inside the premises;
- With outside Houses.
The first option involves installing waterproofing, laying a layer of insulation and interior decoration the entire space of the balcony or loggia. In this case, you can carry out the entire complex of work yourself.
Insulation from the outside is most often carried out in the presence of a concrete parapet. Starting from the second floor of the house, such work can only be performed with special permission in the field of industrial mountaineering. External thermal insulation can only be carried out by experienced specialists in compliance with all safety regulations.
When carrying out work from inside the room, all elements of the balcony or loggia are protected from heat loss, Special attention in this case, attention is paid to external enclosing structures and walls adjacent to the street or technical premises.
To protect the loggia premises from heat loss, it is necessary to perform the following blocks of work:
- if necessary, replace old glazing with new double-glazed windows or wooden structures;
- seal all defects and cracks in external enclosing structures;
- carry out waterproofing of walls, parapet, floor and ceiling, as well as frame outer wall for the balcony;
- lay insulation on all walls, floor and ceiling surfaces;
- attach an additional layer of vapor barrier;
- execute finishing premises.
All types of work do not require special vocational training, so anyone can insulate their balcony or loggia themselves.
To insulate the room on the outside of the house, a structure of ventilated facades is most often installed. This approach allows not only to retain heat, but also to ensure constant removal of condensate from the insulation body. In the technology of ventilated facades, mineral or stone wool, and film waterproofing. This technology is perfect for balconies without external enclosing structures.
Another popular option external insulation is the installation of a layer of rigid polystyrene foam boards or spraying of polyurethane foam followed by plastering of the surface. This method is more preferable for protecting loggias with a concrete or brick parapet.
When the object is located at a height of more than three meters, thermal insulation must be carried out by specialists who have special permission to work at heights.
Insulation options
When finishing a loggia or balcony, the most popular options are rigid insulation materials, for example, extruded polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. These materials are easy to attach to a concrete or brick base; they are characterized by low thermal conductivity of 0.035 W/mK and permeability. As a result effective protection heat loss can be achieved with a thermal insulation layer thickness of 50 mm, which reduces the cost of insulating a balcony or loggia.
When choosing polyurethane foam, it is best to apply it by spraying. The protective layer is installed after assembling all the frames under external finishing and installation of waterproofing. Spraying ensures a monolithic structure of the insulation, which reduces the number of cold bridges. In addition, treatment can be carried out on all surfaces of the room at once, which reduces finishing time.
Semi-rigid ones are quite suitable for protecting the ceiling and floor. mineral wool. It must be remembered that such insulation is extremely sensitive to getting wet. When moistened, cotton wool almost completely loses thermal insulation properties. Therefore, for such insulation, it is important to strictly follow the rules for installing waterproofing and vapor barrier layers.
Required materials and tools
Actually self-insulation balcony or loggia does not require special professional equipment. To carry out all work you will need:
- drill or screwdriver with impact bit;
- grinder for working with metal profiles;
- gun for sealants and foams;
- tape measure, marking pencil, construction knife.
From Supplies you will need:
- wooden blocks or metal guides for the frame;
- various types of self-tapping screws;
- disc-shaped dowels for fastening rigid insulation;
- waterproofing film and vapor-permeable membrane;
- selected insulation in the required quantity;
- polyurethane or silicone sealant and polyurethane foam;
- any finishing material to cover the room.
May be useful at work standard sets screwdrivers, pliers and other small tools that any owner definitely has.
In addition, when constructing the frame, you will need liquid or laser level to align the guides.
The main stages when installing thermal insulation from the inside
Work on insulating walls, floors and ceilings is carried out after installing new glazing. If the balcony or loggia is already covered with metal-plastic or other modern double-glazed windows, then the integrity of the layer of polyurethane foam and sealants applied during installation is checked once again.
Surface preparation
The loggia parapet is carefully inspected to identify cracks and defects. To achieve minimal heat loss, as well as protect the structure from waterlogging, it is necessary to carefully seal all cracks with polyurethane sealant or polyurethane foam.
Additionally, all seams between the parapet, walls and floor are processed. The surface of the walls bordering the street is also inspected. It is necessary to protect all structures as much as possible from moisture penetration and heat loss through cracks and defects.
After eliminating identified cracks and defects, it is necessary to protect the surfaces of the room from external moisture. To do this, the balcony or loggia is completely covered from the inside waterproofing films. The membranes are attached with an overlap, overlapping adjacent sheets by 5 - 10 cm and gluing all seams with protective tape.
When using polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam, the waterproofing layer does not need to be laid. The low permeability of the materials will not allow moisture to penetrate the body of the insulation.
After preparation is completed, the walls, ceiling and floor of the loggia or balcony are closed thermal insulation materials. Rigid slabs are attached to concrete or brickwork using disc-shaped polymer dowels. The distance between individual fasteners should not exceed 40 cm. Most often, one standard stove five dowels are consumed.
The joints between the sheets are additionally insulated with toluene-free polyurethane foam. All winter versions of such materials may contain toluene, but its use is unacceptable due to the negative effect on polystyrene.
After laying the insulation, all structures are covered with a vapor barrier. For these purposes, it is best to use special polymer membranes or foamed polyethylene. The presence of a thin layer of foil on the inner surface of the material will help create the effect of a thermos and additionally protect the room from heat loss.
The vapor barrier can be fixed using polyurethane glue. All joints are also made with an overlap of 5–10 cm and taped with waterproofing tape.
Frame installation and sheathing
After the main protective layers have been assembled, a frame is installed from wooden blocks of 40x20 mm or 50x25 mm for attaching the finishing material. Sometimes used instead of wood metallic profile 60x27 mm.
The sheathing guides are fastened only after the elements have been leveled. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, the length of which allows you to attach a beam or profile directly to a concrete or brick base. The location of the frame is determined based on the selected material.
So, for drywall it is better to set vertical guides, and for plastic panels - horizontal. The distance between the guides should not exceed 40 cm. After installing the frame, the walls, ceiling and floor are sheathed with the selected finishing material.
Insulating a balcony or loggia will allow you to expand the useful space of the apartment and get an excellent office or relaxation room.
All photos from the article
More and more often suburban areas can see wooden houses with a bay window and a balcony, as they combine high aesthetic characteristics and direct functionality. Such designs allow you to increase usable area dwellings. At the same time they can act as decorative elements facade.
Pros and cons of buildings with balconies
Objects of this type deserve special attention, which is due to the presence of a structure protruding from the plane of the facade. Most often, such structures are fenced areas used as terraces, but if desired, they can be converted into premises for other purposes.
Main advantages
- High decorative qualities provide the opportunity to build attractive buildings. The balcony above the veranda in a wooden house looks especially elegant.
- This extension allows you to get additional space. It can accommodate both a regular recreation area and a children's playroom, a study or a greenhouse.
- When getting rid of walls similar design allows you to expand living room . However, this option is not feasible in all cases. It all depends on the design solution.
Some disadvantages
- Buildings with a balcony have a rather complex construction technology, so in most cases it is very difficult to carry out construction with your own hands.
- The final price of real estate with a separate site of this type increases slightly. This is due to the acquisition additional materials for construction.
- During construction high requirements are presented for safety, since the structure will protrude outward from the walls. If the basic rules are not followed, there is a risk of collapse.
Note! If an individual developer is more interested in the decorative qualities of the structure, then you can create a false balcony in a wooden house, which will serve as a rather attractive decoration.
Features of the work
Before making a balcony in a wooden house with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with some nuances. They will help you build an aesthetically attractive and at the same time safe open or closed structure. Most often, for residential buildings, the first option is used with the opportunity to be in the fresh air.
A sheathing made of edged boards. The pitch between the main elements will depend on the type of roofing. If profiled sheets are used, the distance should be no more than 30 cm.
Such a canopy can be supported by support posts or struts. The choice of a specific option is made taking into account the dimensions of the structure.
Fencing installation
Support posts can be load-bearing pillars to support the roof or individual pedestals made of beams with an increased cross-section. In the latter case, the elements are installed using metal pins.
Balusters are also installed using metal rods, but with a reduced cross-section. A special rail is attached to them, onto which a convenient handrail is placed.
Attention! Pick up wooden fencing for balcony in Vacation home or a residential building should be based on the overall design of the building, otherwise they may not look very appropriate.
In conclusion
Unlike the construction of a conventional terrace, the construction of this structure is carried out without creating a foundation, since it is suspended. In this regard, special attention must be paid to the load-bearing part in order to achieve high level security. As for other points, the structures are very similar.
Detailed information about wooden balconies is presented in the video in this article.