Hyacinths are one of the most popular garden plants that bloom in spring due to their varied range of colors and quite easy care after them. But sometimes it happens that after doing everything necessary work When it comes to growing and caring for them, the flowers are still in no hurry to delight you with their lush blooms. Why hyacinths don’t bloom is in our article.
Main mistake
One of the most common mistakes among novice gardeners is that they leave hyacinth bulbs in the ground after flowering. But in conditions middle zone The soil rarely warms up above 20 degrees. Inside the bulb, the rudiments of a young shoot with leaves and inflorescence, as well as the rudiments of new daughter bulbs, do not have time to form. Therefore, after a certain period of time, approximately 35 days after the start of flowering, when the leaves begin to lie down (this happens in late June - early July), the formed hyacinth bulbs must be dug up, dried for several days in a shaded place, and then, peeled from the roots and soil, spread into paper bags with a note about the variety.
First, the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25 degrees, and 30 days before planting they are transferred to a cool place.
Choosing a landing site
When planting and digging up bulbs, be very careful with them. Those that are damaged are easily susceptible to fungal diseases, and healthy ones live up to ten years or more.
Try not to plant hyacinths in areas where other bulbous crops were previously grown. In addition, hyacinths do not tolerate flooding. groundwater- find them a higher place.
Soil preparation
Answering the question “why don’t hyacinths bloom?” One cannot fail to take into account one more important point. The reason for poor flowering may be improperly prepared soil for planting. Some gardeners try to “feed” the soil with fresh manure. You can't do this. The feeding layer, which should be below the level of planting the bulbs, is formed from soil and rotted manure. This also includes the full combined mineral fertilizer at the rate of 40 g per 1 square meter. Light, breathable soil is poured over the feeding layer. Hyacinth bulbs are planted here at a depth of 20-25 cm, not forgetting to add a little sand under the bottom.
If you fulfill all the conditions, then every year in mid-May you will have a holiday lush flowering hyacinths.
Hyacinth is considered one of the most beautiful bulbous flowers. Ornamental plant will decorate any garden or home. Perennials are usually grown on summer cottages, but you can also find it on window sills. However, the flower is quite capricious. To properly care for it, you need to know some wisdom. For example, what to do with hyacinth after flowering and how to replant hyacinth correctly.
Bloom
Hyacinths begin to bloom in early spring. Depending on the region, they produce inflorescences as soon as the snow cover melts. Hyacinth, when in bloom, exudes a strong pleasant aroma. Large racemes in the form of spikelets with many flowers, reminiscent of lilacs and bells, have different colors. The earliest plants are considered to be cornflower blue. After 8-14 days it's worth waiting pink flowers. After another week, snow-white and scarlet hyacinths appear. Next, purple plants begin to bloom. Late varieties- these are those perennials whose color is sunny.
Bloom
House hyacinths can bloom at any time of the year. This period depends on the rooting time. It usually takes the plant about 70-90 days to produce a bud. If it is necessary to obtain inflorescences in winter, then the bulb is rooted in a pot in the fall.
Additional Information. Flowering lasts about 7-17 days. This process only happens once a year. Gardeners who like to experiment can artificially try to force the plant to produce a spike twice in a year, but this will stress the plant.
Why doesn't hyacinth bloom?
It happens that hyacinth does not bloom. This happens for several reasons:
- If during the dormant period the bulb was in a room where it was too warm.
- If the soil is acidic, poor. The plant feels good only in light soil rich in humus, sand, and compost. The acidity should be neutral.
- Flowers are in waterlogged soil. Hyacinths love well-drained soil. They should not be planted in a place where groundwater accumulates.
- Insufficient water also negatively affects flower development.
- Plants love sunlight and do not tolerate drafts. Therefore, a quiet but sunny place is chosen for them.
What to do after flowering
Should be handled correctly
If the hyacinths have faded, what to do next in the open ground? In order for a crop to please gardeners with selected, healthy flowers, it must be handled correctly. After flowering, it is recommended to wait until the leaves dry and dig the bulbs out of the ground. They are left in storage for some time. The necessary manipulations are performed with them. After the onion they are planted again in open ground to bloom in early spring. It is best to transplant them to a new place. But before digging, the summer resident must provide the plant with the necessary care.
Caring for hyacinths after flowering
After winter, there is enough moisture in the soil for hyacinths to thrive, but they still need to be watered during flowering. This is done once every 4-6 days. The ground under the stems is mulched. After flowering has completed, you should not suddenly stop watering. It should be continued, gradually reducing the frequency of procedures. 40-60 days after flowering, the gardener stops watering the plant. Usually at this time the leaves turn yellow. In central Russia, hyacinths begin to dry out in June. Exactly this optimal time for digging up bulbs.
Top dressing
After flowering, the flower is fertilized. It is recommended to use complex fertilizers containing potassium, phosphorus, and a small amount of nitrogen. The elements will help the bulb regain its strength. Experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing the flower carefully. You cannot overfeed a decorative crop. Fertilizer is applied only to the root zone. The most best time– 3-4 hours after rain or watering.
As soon as the plant has finished flowering, the drooping peduncle is removed. This will save the bulb from wasting energy and energy on this part. Leaves are not removed. With their help they get to the bulb nutrients. While they are emerald in color, the onion is growing.
Despite the fact that the flower loves the sun, oversaturation sun rays leads to rapid withering and burns. Therefore, after flowering, the plant is hilled several times.
As soon as the leaves change color from emerald to yellow, it’s time to dig the bulbs out of the ground. If you delay a little, the leaves will fall off, they will be blown away by the wind, and the bulbs will be difficult to find in the soil.
Note! Some gardeners prefer not to dig the bulbs out of the ground. This option is acceptable. Next spring the flowers will bloom again. However, it is still recommended to dig them up, put them in storage, and plant them again in the fall. In this way, you can protect the crop from disease, rotting, and also get additional planting material(children).
Why replant hyacinths?
Transplantation of hyacinths is needed in order for this capricious plant did not catch the disease, and was not attacked by pests. If a flower is planted in the same place every year, it will quickly wither, as pathogenic bacteria, fungi and harmful insects accumulate in the soil. When transplanting to a new bed, this can be avoided.
Important! Hyacinths must be replanted annually. This applies to both home and garden plants. At the same time, home hyacinths are planted in the garden for several years. There they can get stronger. The fact is that this culture belongs to the garden, and street conditions the most suitable ones for her.
When to replant hyacinths
It is best to replant bulbs in the fall. This solution is relevant for bulbs that were dug in June, as well as for purchased material. According to reviews from summer residents, in central Russia and the Urals they begin to replant the crop in the second half of September. Transplantation can be carried out until October 15. Why was this particular time chosen? The fact is that the bulbs need to take root before winter. If you drop them off later, they won't be able to let in required amount roots and, accordingly, survive the winter. If landing will take place in August or the very beginning of September, the plant will not only take root, but will also start active growth. As a result of the cold, green shoots and the onion itself will be destroyed.
The main condition for planting is that the ground temperature should not be less than +7...+9 degrees, but not more than +12...+13 degrees.
It is best to replant bulbs in the fall.
Transplant instructions
- Before transplanting hyacinth, you should prepare the bed. It is prepared 2-3 weeks before planting. The earth is well dug up. The depth of soil treatment is about 30-45 cm.
- Fertilizers and nutrients are added. Halfway square meter The soil must be covered with several glasses of fly ash, 10 g of potassium, 30 g of superphosphate.
- If the soil is acidic, then it is deoxidized using dolomite flour, chalk or lime.
- You can plant 4-5 bulbs on half a square meter. The distance between flowers should be about 8-13 cm. If they are planted in rows, then the distance between the rows is 16-23 cm.
- The holes for the bulbs are made 12-16 cm deep.
- A layer is laid at the bottom of each hole river sand. An onion is placed on it. The bottom should be at the bottom. If the bulbs are small, they are planted more often and not deeply buried.
- The holes in which the bulbs are already located are filled with soil and watered abundantly.
Bulbs are dug up
After the hyacinths bloomed, what to do next with them became clear. They are left in the garden until the leaves turn yellow. Afterwards the bulbs are dug up. What to do with the bulbs? How to store them correctly? According to experienced gardeners, after extracting the material from the ground, various useful manipulations are carried out with it. First, the bulbs are washed. Next they are placed in hot water(about 50-60 degrees). Disinfection is also carried out. To do this, prepare a not too concentrated solution of manganese.
After these procedures, the material is taken out to a ventilated veranda or to another room. It is necessary for the material to dry. It dries best on fresh air at a temperature of +18…+21 degrees. But you can't leave it in the sun.
After this, the bulbs are inspected. Rotten or diseased ones are removed. The rest are cleared of all unnecessary things. Weak and old scales are removed.
At the same time, it is recommended to disconnect children who are developing their own roots. The final stage– dry, clean onions are removed wooden boxes or cardboard containers. If there is not enough material, then it is simply wrapped in paper.
The material is stored for 1.5-2 months in an apartment where it is about +24...+26 degrees. Flowers should not be stored in a room that is too hot or too cool. Next, they are transferred to a room or veranda, where no more than +17 degrees. 5 days before the intended planting, hyacinths are removed outside, into the basement or underground, where it is about +5...+7 degrees. This period is necessary for hardening the planting material.
Provided that all recommendations are followed, even a novice gardener can cope with the capricious but beautiful hyacinth. All the efforts of digging, storing and replanting the flower will pay off in early spring, when the flowers bloom in the garden. bright inflorescences, and the area will be filled with an indescribable aroma.
Even the most unpretentious plants have some characteristics and have their own requirements for planting and care. The agricultural technology used is also determined by the need to create comfortable conditions for decorative culture conditions. And here hyacinths show themselves as heat-loving beauties that require attention and do not forgive mistakes.
Traditionally waiting abundant flowering these bulbous plants in April or May, sometimes gardeners in the spring do not see the desired bright arrows. Why don't hyacinths bloom in the garden? At what stage was the mistake made, and how can you avoid making it again next season? A bulb will help answer these questions and determine the reason why hyacinths do not bloom in the garden. This is the main part of the plant, on the condition of which not only flowering, but also the growth of hyacinth, its health and reproduction depend.
Year-round cultivation of hyacinths in the garden
Most often gardeners do serious mistake without digging up faded bulbs in June, when aboveground part The plants are already almost completely dry. In their homeland, where summers are much hotter and longer than in central Russia, hyacinths spend the hot months resting and gathering strength for the next season. It is in the summer that a growth bud appears inside the bulb, containing the rudiment of the flower arrow.
If the bulb left in the ground remained in cool, damp soil until the fall, then by winter it not only does not have time to prepare well, but can also be affected by soil pests, pathogenic fungi and bacteria. This means that in the spring best case scenario a weak peduncle will appear. Sometimes after a cold, rainy summer there is no flowering at all.
When growing hyacinths in the garden is accompanied by digging them up at the beginning of summer and proper storage until the end of September or October, the risk of not seeing lush, fragrant inflorescences is greatly reduced.
Quality of garden-grown hyacinth bulbs
In addition, without digging up bulbs for the summer, it is impossible to control the quality of planting material. But hyacinths can:
- not getting enough nutrients;
- experience a lack or excess of moisture;
- be attacked by pests and pathogens of bulbous diseases.
Aging bulbs also gradually lose their ability to flower. These features must be taken into account when purchasing bulbs for growing hyacinths in the garden, and when growing your own planting material.
If, during inspection of hyacinths in a store or during storage, soft, mechanically damaged or dried bulbs are revealed, they should not fall into the ground. Otherwise, in search of the reason why the hyacinths did not bloom, the gardener has only himself to blame, as in the situation when bulbs are planted with traces of mold, yellow-brown or gray spots - signs of serious diseases.
Why hyacinths did not bloom: storage errors
To avoid a situation where hyacinths do not bloom in spring, bulbs dug in June:
- washed;
- pickle for up to 30 minutes in an insecticide solution;
- dry for a week in a dark, ventilated place at 20 ºC;
- stored at 24–26 ºC for 60 days;
- the last month before planting is kept at 17 ºC, making sure that the planting material does not dry out;
- a week before planting, they are placed in the ground at a temperature close to the outside temperature in order to harden the future plants.
Only healthy, processed planting material is stored, which is laid out in one layer either in boxes or in paper bags.
Mistakes when planting hyacinths and growing them in the garden
Hyacinths are planted in the soil in September or early October, after pre-treating the bulbs with a fungicide.
- Earlier planting will lead not only to the rooting of the bulb, but also to the growth of the green part, which is fraught with the death of the plant from frost or freezing of the flower bud, and then spring bloom you won't have to wait.
- Late planting of hyacinths is also a risk of freezing and one of the reasons why hyacinths do not bloom in the garden in the spring.
Since the growing season for hyacinths begins very early, any manipulation of the bulbs in the spring is extremely painful for plants. Therefore, spring is the time when replanting hyacinths, as well as planting bulbs in the ground, is extremely undesirable. The pain of acclimatization may be so severe that the plant refuses to bloom, and the already noticeable shoots die off.
Sometimes the reason why hyacinths do not bloom lies in the wrong selection of a site for these spectacular plants, as well as insufficient care for a beautifully flowering crop:
- Hyacinths prefer neutral, well-structured and aerated soil. If the soil is excessively acidic or dense, do not additional training there is no need to wait for friendly flowering of the plot.
- The absence of color during the growth period is also dangerous for the bulbous crop, which can drop its buds.
- Bulbs weakened by pests and diseases may fail to produce inflorescences when hyacinths are transplanted to the place of closely related species.
- Thin integumentary scales can be damaged by fresh organic matter used in fertilizing and when planting bulbs.
- Poor flowering of hyacinths awaits the gardener if the plants were planted too often or too deeply.
- If hyacinth lands in dense soil or in an area where there are a lot of weeds, the plant may not have enough strength to break through.
Sometimes a flower arrow that has already appeared above ground level dies. The reasons why the hyacinth did not bloom in this case are the following:
- the soil is oversaturated with moisture;
- the bulb was planted too early;
- planting material fell into already frozen soil.
In the conditions of the middle zone, hyacinth grows well in open ground and annually pleases with rich flowering, but only on the condition that everything is created for it the necessary conditions, and when caring, the gardener does not make annoying mistakes.
Planting hyacinths - video
What could be more wonderful than a handmade gift? Or grown. Hyacinth can be just such a gift: alive, real and very pleasant. This flower, like no other, is suitable for germination by a certain time or date, because it has more or less precise timing for forcing.
Of course, growing a gift in the form of Hyacinth by a precisely defined date is quite difficult. But probably. In extreme cases, flowering dates may shift a week earlier or later than the scheduled date. But after receiving the gift, I’m sure the recipient will understand you and appreciate your efforts. And if you are growing Hyacinth at home for yourself, then the timing is not so important at all.
What should be taken into account when calculating flowering times? Forcing period homemade hyacinths From planting to flowering it takes about 2.5 months. During this time, the bulb should take root, germinate, shoot out the arrow and bloom.
Growing hyacinth at home
Rooting
Rooting of the bulb lasts approximately 2 months (6-10 weeks). We start by planting the Hyacinths in a permanent pot. It should be small in size (if there is one flower), or wide and shallow (if there are several). In the latter case, the bulbs must be placed at a sufficient distance so that the flowering arrows do not interfere with each other.
The bulbs need to be buried 2/3 of the way into the ground. Be sure to have 1/3 of its part and the growing point above the ground surface.
For landing I use universal primer. You can mix it with a flowering mixture - it is lighter and more acidic, which guarantees better flowering.
Germination
After planting, place the container with the bulbs in a cool, dark place. If the pot is small, you can place it in the refrigerator tray (that’s what I did). If you planted several bulbs, place the container in the basement. Rooting conditions: absolute darkness at a temperature of +5-7°C. Water very rarely, but do not allow the soil to dry out completely.
Arrow forcing
After about 2 months, the first shoots should appear. When the shoots reach a height of 3-5 cm and you see that a flower arrow has hatched, you need to pull the Hyacinths out into the light of day. But the temperature of its content should be about 12-15 degrees. This could be a glazed terrace or an enclosed balcony.
Now you need the flower arrow to stretch out. To do this, I cover the flower for a week with a paper cap made of thick dark cardboard with a tiny hole on top. The arrow begins to actively reach towards the light source.
When it finally comes out of the socket, I remove the cap.
Bloom
After another 1-2 weeks, buds appear. After this, the flower can be brought into the house. Water the plant constantly, but do not overwater it. At this time, Hyacinth can be fed with liquid fertilizer.
Even during the period when the buds appear, it would be a good idea to tie the arrow to a support stick so that it does not bend under the weight of the flowers during flowering.
You need to turn from time to time homemade Hyacinth to the sunlight, first one side, then the other, so that the flowers bloom evenly along the entire arrow.
Hyacinth flowering at home can last 2-3 weeks.
After the Hyacinth has faded, the peduncle needs to be cut off. Let the leaves remain. They should fade and dry out naturally. But before that, the leaves give the bulb an opportunity to grow stronger. To do this, the plant needs to be watered and fertilized for another month after flowering. Then we reduce watering and eliminate fertilizing altogether.
When the leaves are completely dry, they need to be removed. After the soil has completely dried, carefully remove the bulb from the pot. Let it dry and place it in a cool, dark place. In the second year, as a rule, this bulb is still too weak to force and flower, but it needs to be in the ground to gain strength. Therefore, if you have personal plot or a flower bed under the balcony, you can plant the bulb in open ground in the fall. If not, then in the spring, plant it in a pot for several months, germinating it in the same way as for flowering, but without producing flowers. And in a year you will be able to grow blooming Hyacinth again.
It is curious that in old domestic books on gardening there are no recommendations for growing hyacinths in the garden.
The secret is simple - a hundred years ago, hyacinths were home flowers in Russia, fashionable and widespread. They usually tried to get it to bloom by Easter, which is why they called hyacinth the Easter flower.
Blooming hyacinths can be obtained from December to May. They look great when forced out. You just need to prepare the material correctly.
For this purpose, large healthy bulbs with a diameter of more than 5 cm and weighing 60-80 g with a healthy bottom.
The following bloom luxuriantly when forced:varieties :
dark pink Amsterdam, light pink Anna Maria and Lady Derby,
lilac Amethyst,
blue Delph Blue,
white Innocent and Carnegie,
Blue Pearl Diamond.
FOR A BOUQUET FOR THE NEW YEAR OR CHRISTMAS, hyacinth bulbs are dug out of the ground not at the end of June, but a week earlier.
Dry in a place with good ventilation and store for 2 weeks at 30 degrees. At home, this is the kitchen - the top shelves.
For hyacinths, it is very important that the soil does not dry out, but is also not waterlogged.
To protect against drying out, place a damp burlap or cloth on top. Then, until September 1, they are stored at 25.5 degrees, after which the temperature is reduced to 17 degrees.
Soil preparation and planting
In the first half of October they are planted in pots or bowls filled with loose soil. soil mixture(humus, turf soil, sand in a ratio of 1:2:0.5).
One onion is planted in pots 8-10 cm in size; several are usually planted in boxes, placing them every 2-2.5 cm. They are planted shallowly, immersed in the soil up to the shoulders. Once planted, the tops of the bulbs should be level with the edges of the box and 1.5cm above the soil.
The bulbs are watered abundantly, covered with damp sand or sawdust and stored in a basement, trench, refrigerator, cellar or other place where the temperature is maintained at 5-10 degrees for 10-12 weeks. With this cooling, rooting of the bulbs occurs.
When the length of the sprouts reaches 6-8 cm, the hyacinths are exposed to light and kept under black caps at a temperature of 16-18 degrees for the first 3-5 days. After 2 weeks, hyacinths bloom.
At first, hyacinths are protected from light on the windowsill with thick caps.
FLOWERING AT THE END OF FEBRUARY - EARLY MARCH.
The bulbs are harvested at the usual time, that is, at the end of June and beginning of July. Until September 1, they are stored at a temperature of 25.5 degrees, then the temperature is reduced to 17 degrees. At the end of October, they are planted in boxes or pots filled with soil consisting of equal parts of river sand, turf soil and peat. Until December 15, keep at a temperature of 8-9 degrees, then reduce it to zero. 2-2.5 weeks before the scheduled flowering date, they are brought out into the light.
During this period, it is important to observe the temperature regime. For 5-6 days, hyacinths are kept at 17-18 degrees, only then it is raised to 22 degrees.
Moreover, by adjusting the temperature, you can control the duration of flowering. For example, at 10-12 degrees, hyacinths bloom for 20-25 days, and at 20-22 degrees for only 15-18 days. During forcing, plant care involves regular watering.
After flowering, intensive leaf growth occurs. At this time, it is advisable to feed the plants 2-3 times. liquid fertilizer For indoor flowers at weekly intervals.
When the leaves turn yellow, stop watering, dig up the bulbs, dry them and store them until October. Then they are planted in open ground. For re-forcing they can be used no earlier than after 2 years.
Why do hyacinths bloom poorly on the window?
- If flowering does not work out, there may be several reasons: planting small bulbs, lack of moisture in the pot, too heat on the window.
- The appearance of deformed flowers is associated with non-compliance temperature regime during the cold period.
- Rotting of flowers causes waterlogging of the soil, especially if there are no drainage holes in the pot.
- The slow development of hyacinths may be associated with early transfer to a bright room.
- Yellowing and lethargy of leaves occur due to drafts or insufficient lighting.
- The reasons for the non-simultaneous flowering of bulbs in a pot may be their different sizes or uneven illumination on the window, so the pot must be turned with different sides towards the light from time to time.
- The buds do not open and fall off due to water getting on them during watering or due to dry soil.
Planting hyacinths in water
Water forcing of hyacinths was once very popular. Let's repeat the experience of our great-grandmothers. To do this, you need to choose a vase that tapers at the top to about 4 cm, or buy special cups for forcing hyacinths.
After digging at the end of June - beginning of July, the bulbs should be stored at a temperature of 25.5 degrees until September, then it is reduced to 17 degrees. At the end of October - beginning of November you can start forcing.
To prevent water from rotting, place several pieces of water at the bottom of the vessel. charcoal, and so that it does not float up, you need to pour 1-1.5 cm of river sand or gravel on top. Only after this water is poured, preferably rain or snow.
The hyacinth bulb must be placed on the neck of the vessel so that the distance between the bottom and the water level is no more than 2 mm. Then cover it with a cap made of dark paper and place it in a cool place with a temperature of 6-9 degrees, away from sunlight.
At the beginning of root formationwater needs to be added every 4 days , making sure that it does not get on the bulb.
When the sprout is 8-10 cm (this happens after about 8-10 weeks), the paper caps are gradually removed and the vessels are placed on the sunny side of the window.
Unfortunately, after forcing in water, hyacinth bulbs are not suitable for further cultivation.