How to plant watermelons in open ground. Delicious striped berry: how to grow a watermelon yourself

In recent years, a huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and melons in your dacha, you need to put in a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help you realize your dream, the result of which will be a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Choosing a location is an important stage in planting a watermelon, which largely determines its further growth and productivity:

• Watermelon loves places with a lot of light; in shady conditions it develops poorly and will not be able to produce high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
• due to its highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable;
• Light sandy loam or sandy soils with neutral acidity are most suitable for cultivating melons. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility; they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and rocky soils. Still, to receive big harvests Well-cultivated areas are required. To do this, in the fall, the future planting site is dug up and fertilizers are applied:

• superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
• wood ash (1 l);
• humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m2 of plot area. Applying fertilizers before planting eliminates the need for regular fertilizing during the growing season of the plant.

For watermelon you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruit. The variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose the plant most adapted to the growing conditions in your region. Watermelons can differ among themselves in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.

Pre-sowing seed preparation

Preparing seeds for sowing is an important stage of cultivation vegetable crops, especially during home cultivation, since in conditions of limited space the requirements for plant selection increase.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to select the best ones and discard small and damaged ones. Selection is usually carried out manually: seed material is scattered over a smooth surface and divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds, as a rule, contain a large supply of nutrients, which will subsequently provide the plants with good growth and high yield.

The largest seeds are selected for sowing

Warming up and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination and the formation of more female flowers, good growth and the development of lashes.

Procedure:

1. The seed material is poured into a fabric bag and immersed in warm water(50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
2. Then it is transferred for half an hour for disinfection into a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Remove the bag and allow excess moisture to drain.
4. The seeds are laid on damp sand, cotton or paper and left in a warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until the seedlings appear.

If you bought treated seeds, they cannot be soaked and should be planted directly into the ground.

Germinating watermelon seeds for planting open ground or for seedlings

Hardening

To increase plant resistance to sudden temperature fluctuations and obtain earlier and bountiful harvest hardening of seeds is carried out. Most often, seed material is affected in two ways:

• exposure to constant low temperatures. For 1–2 days, the swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0±1°C with periodic stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
• exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6°C, then they should be kept warm for the same period of time at a temperature of 18–20°C. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of containers and soil

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml ( minimum height containers - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). Prepared for planting soil mixture, into which sand, turf soil and peat are added in equal proportions. Add to 5 liters of prepared soil:

• dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
• double superphosphate (100 g);
• ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with the mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, soil can be added to the pot.

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.

Sowing watermelon seeds

To know how to plant a watermelon correctly depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time for planting is mid to late April. Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are placed in the brightest window, preferably a southern one.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.

Planting seeds in open ground

Prepared seeds can be sown directly into open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is between 12–14°C and the soil has warmed to a depth of 10 cm. It is best to sow in the last ten days of May, at which time the likelihood of cold weather is significantly reduced. In cold soil, the germination time of seeds increases, as a result of which the seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. To plant a watermelon, prepare a hole with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, add into it:

• humus or compost (1 kg);
• ash (1 tbsp.);
• nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
• Add additional sand to heavy soil and mix everything.

Sprouted watermelon seeds are sown in the prepared holes. Before this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured onto the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out at a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed is not watered after sowing. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to emerge to the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered generously as the soil dries, but not more than once every 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the sprouts appear, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants; in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct seeding in the ground is more resistant to stress, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

Seedling care

In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they are provided with optimal conditions:

• The daytime temperature should be about 25°C, at night it is reduced to 20°C. Under such conditions, sprouts will appear in 7–10 days;
• The required daylight hours are at least 12 hours. Lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to illuminate the plants with a phytolamp;
• after the seedlings have sprouted, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
• watering the seedlings is carried out in several stages, avoiding water getting on the leaves;
• in the phase of 3 true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

If these rules are followed, the seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.

After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings into open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden bed, they are 30–35 days old, and the plant has formed at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. 3–4 days before planting in the ground, plants are kept on outdoors, and in the evening before transplanting, water it abundantly.

After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, the plants are planted in a permanent place. Transplantation is carried out in the morning: the watermelon along with the earthen lump is removed from the container, planted in a hole, then watered and covered with film. The root collar of the seedlings is not buried.

After planting the seedlings earthen lump should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon is left open

Video: transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground

Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2020

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Vegetable growers often resort to help lunar calendar. Favorable dates for 2020:

• Planting on March 3, 10 and 11 will have the most positive effect on the growth of melons;
• in April, favorable times for planting seedlings are the 9th, 15th and 23rd;
• in May, it is recommended to plant watermelons on the 13th, 14th and 20th;
• Planting garden crops is undesirable on new and full moon days:
  • April 8 and 25,
  • May 7 and 22.

Planting pattern and depth

Exist different schemes When planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:

• cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering take up less space, so they can be placed more densely;
• watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
• estimated fetal weight (3–5 kg or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, take into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

• in the garden bed, early varieties are placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
• watermelons of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties are planted according to a 2x2 m pattern; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger number - between the rows.

The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

The depth of planting seed in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

• on their size (the smaller the seed, the shallower the planting depth);
• type of soil (incorporation is deeper on light soils than on heavy soils);
• soil moisture (seeds are placed on a moist layer).

The seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root collar is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

To be guaranteed to receive good harvest melons, you need not only to follow the planting rules, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

• Watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds well. To create shelter, corn, peas or beans are planted around the area;
• all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with black radish plantings. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
• an excellent neighbor of watermelon is melon;
• it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
• corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
• sow thistle and pigweed promote the growth of melon plants;
• watermelon grows well next to greenery plantings (parsley is an exception);
• Tomato phytoncides drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.

All representatives of melons grow very strongly, so it is better to plant crops next to them that give an early harvest.

Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so you need to approach the choice of neighbors responsibly:

• melons grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
• watermelon does not like the proximity of strawberries and representatives of nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
• he extracts from the soil a large number of minerals, therefore, growing watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes is not recommended;
• Watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agrotechnical technique is crop rotation. When alternating melons and melons at intervals of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced in the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in one field for more than 2 years in a row; the optimal predecessors for it are:

• winter wheat,
• perennial herbs,
• corn for green fodder,
• radish,
• dill,
• basil,
• tomatoes,
• celery,
• roots,
• cabbage.

It is strictly not recommended to plant melons in an area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting the watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and availability free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

In a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work carried out like this:

1. Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (a wooden box measuring 50x50x30 cm can be used).
2. The container is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2:1. This will protect the soil from stagnant water.
3. After the third true leaf appears on the seedlings, the plant along with the earthen ball is transplanted into a bucket.
4. The optimal daytime temperature is 25–30°C, night temperature is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
5. Watering should be moderate; watermelon does not like waterlogging.
6. The soil is fertilized every 2 weeks. Liquid fertilizers for vegetables are suitable for this (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). Only fresh solution is prepared for irrigation.
7. At the stage of ovary formation, a second feeding is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2–3 weeks - a third.
8. The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main shoot.
9. During the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are picked, the petals are removed and the female flowers (with a thickening at the bottom) are pollinated, touching the pistils with the stamens.
10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest a harvest of delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more of a hobby than a way to obtain tasty berries. In apartment conditions, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps on the balcony during the hot summer. A watermelon grown at home is unlikely to delight you with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who still decide to experiment, I advise you to do it at the bottom of the container drainage hole to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine whether a watermelon needs watering, it is recommended to slightly lift the bucket with the plant, basing its weight on the soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions melon plants cultivated in open ground, in this case they do not require garter. When grown in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

1. On both sides of the beds, a support at least 1.5 m high is dug in, and ropes or twine are pulled between them.
2. Other ropes are tied to the stretched ropes, which go down to the plants and serve as a support for the watermelon stems, determining the direction of growth.
3. The end of the lowered rope is secured to the stem of the plant or to the ground.
4. The main stem is tied in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, since female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
5. The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2–3 fruits the size of egg the remaining ovaries are removed, since more watermelons will not have time to ripen.

The trellis is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.

Under covering material

Cultivating watermelons under covering material has now become especially popular. Additional expenses on film are compensated by the advantages of this technology, including:

• protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in open ground;
• reduction of daily temperature fluctuations;
• accumulation and retention of soil moisture.

The use of covering material allows you to shorten the period of fruit ripening by 7–10 days. This method is especially relevant in short or humid summers and can be used in several ways:

Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the vines, protecting them from possible frosts.

Features of planting watermelons in different regions

Watermelon is a heat-loving crop that requires quite a long period growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (southern Ukraine, Krasnodar region, Transcaucasian republics), watermelons are traditionally grown open method, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the growing season of the plant and the rapid development of fruits. After preparing for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough for the fruits to ripen, so watermelon seedlings are first grown.

In regions with moderately cold and harsh climates ( Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, Far East) the watermelon harvest will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:

• Only early ripening varieties are chosen for planting;
• to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and in conditions middle zone- also in open ground under a film (spread);
• planting is done through seedlings in pots;
• so that the roots grow wider, the plants are watered not at the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the row spacing;
• No more than 5–6 fruits are left on one plant to obtain large berries- 1–2 fruits, place a board under each to prevent them from rotting in cool conditions.

For cultivation in the northern regions, only early ripening varieties of watermelons are chosen:

• for the Moscow region:
  • Sugar Baby
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Skorik,
  • Ogonyok,
  • Producer,
  • Astrakhansky,
  • Top gun,
  • Chill;
• for the Leningrad region:
  • Kharkovsky,
  • Ogonyok,
  • Rose of the Southeast,
  • Skorospelka;
• for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
  • Pink Champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1,
  • Creamstar;
• for Siberia and the Far East:
  • Crimson Wonder,
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Ultra early,
  • Ogonyok,
  • Siberian.

The average period of fruit ripening for the middle zone is about 70–80 days, the fruits are medium-sized – from 2 kg to 4–6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge on planting and caring for watermelons will definitely reward you with delicious and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose the right variety and take the time to make a shelter.

grassy annual plant Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) is a member of the Watermelon genus of the Cucurbitaceae family. This plant belongs to the melon crop, native to southern Africa (Lesotho, South Africa, Botswana and Namibia). Today, in these places you can find the colocynth species, which is related to the watermelon; it is the ancestor of the cultivated watermelon. In the 20th century BC in Ancient Egypt Watermelon has already been cultivated. The seeds of this plant were found in the tomb of Tutankhamun. In the verses of Virgil it is possible to find evidence that the ancient Romans knew about this plant; they ate watermelons salted and fresh, and also used them to make honey. They were grown in China, where they were called the “melon of the West,” and the Arabs also cultivated watermelon, who ate it before meals to cleanse the body. Thanks to the crusaders, this culture found its way to Europe, and to the territory modern Russia it was introduced in the 13th and 14th centuries AD. The leader in the cultivation of watermelons is China, followed not very far behind by Iran, Turkey, Egypt, the American states, as well as Russia and Uzbekistan. The best conditions for growing watermelons are considered to be long, hot and dry summers, as well as short and not very cold winters.

The branched thin shoots of watermelon are creeping and curly, they are often smoothed-pentagonal, and their length can reach up to 400 cm. While the plant is young, its shoots are densely pubescent. Alternately arranged petiolar, harsh leaf plates have a rough surface on which pubescence is located. The leaves have a triangular-ovate shape, while at the base they are heart-shaped. The length of the plates can vary from 8 to 22 centimeters, and the width - from 5 to 18 centimeters. Flowering is observed in the summer, the flowers are female, male and hermaphroditic, there are bracts that are shaped like a boat. The fruit is a watermelon berry - a multi-seeded pumpkin, the surface of which is very smooth, its flesh is sweet and juicy, it has a red or pink color. There are varieties with pale yellow flesh, while the rind of this fruit is rough.

Growing watermelons from seeds

Grow watermelon in open ground only possible by generative (seed) method. At the same time, this crop can be grown either through seedlings or by sowing seeds directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds immediately into the soil is carried out only in regions with a warm climate, while the soil must warm up to 12–14 degrees, and it must also be prepared in advance. Before you start sowing, the seeds must be prepared. To do this, they are poured into a thermos, which is filled with lukewarm (about 50 degrees) water. After the seeds sprout, they are carefully removed. For sowing, you need to prepare holes, the depth of which should be about 80 mm, maintain a distance of 100 cm between them. Pour 1 tsp into each hole. Ammofoski, 1 tbsp. l. wood ash and 1 kg of humus, everything needs to be mixed well with the ground. Then you need to pour a couple of liters of water into the planting hole. After the liquid is completely absorbed, 2 or 3 seeds are placed in the hole, and they are not placed very close to each other. After this, the hole is filled with soil, which is trampled down well. After sowing is done, there is no need to water the area. After a little more than 7 days, the first seedlings may appear. If sowing is done in cold soil, the seedlings will appear later, and sometimes they even die. To avoid this, sowing seeds in open soil should be done no earlier than the third ten days of May. After the seedlings begin to form 3 or 4 true leaf blades, they should be thinned out by removing weak plants. To do this, the seedlings are cut directly above the surface of the site.

In regions where the summer period is relatively short, this crop is recommended to be grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown for seedlings in May. Since pumpkin plants react quite negatively to picking, individual containers should be used for sowing, the volume of which should be at least 300 ml. For sowing you will need a substrate, which includes turf soil, peat and sand (1:1:1). Add 50 grams to every 5 liters of the resulting soil mixture. ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate and dolomite flour, and another 100 grams of double superphosphate. The seeds will need pre-sowing preparation. To do this, seed the seed for 30 minutes. immersed in lukewarm (about 55 degrees) water, and then they are placed in moistened sand for germination, while the air temperature should be about 25 degrees. When the seeds appear to have small sprouts, you can begin sowing. To do this, they are laid out in 2-3 seeds on the surface of the soil mixture, which needs to be filled into individual cups. The seeds should be sprinkled with a layer of sand on top, then the containers should be covered with glass or polyethylene. The cups are placed in a place where the air temperature is at least 30 degrees.

The first seedlings should appear after 7 days, after which the shelter must be removed. The containers are transferred to a cooler place (from 16 to 18 degrees) for 9 days. Such seedlings must be watered, fed in a timely manner, and also, if necessary, supplemented with light, because the length of daylight required for this crop must be at least 12 hours. Watering is carried out in several stages, and you should wait until the liquid is completely absorbed into the substrate and not allow it to get on the foliage of the plants. During the formation of the third true leaf blade, the plants will need to be fed with liquid mullein or a solution of complex mineral fertilizer. About 1.5 weeks before the watermelons are transplanted into open soil, they need to start hardening off. To do this, the seedlings are transferred to fresh air, and the duration of this procedure must be increased gradually, so start with one hour and increase to 24 hours.

Watermelon pick

It has already been said above that it is extremely undesirable to pick watermelon seedlings, because the root system of the plants can be seriously injured. Pinching is also highly undesirable.

What time to plant

Watermelon seedlings should be planted in open soil 1 month after sowing the seeds in the phase of formation of 5–6 true leaf blades. As a rule, this time falls on last days May or the first ten days of June. For planting, you should choose a well-warmed sunny plot, which has reliable protection from the wind. It should be located on the south-eastern or southern side, while herbaceous perennial plants (clover, alfalfa or sainfoin), cabbage, winter wheat, onions, as well as annual legumes should have grown on it before this melon crop. Areas where pumpkins (zucchini, watermelon, melon or squash) and nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and eggplants) grew before watermelons are not suitable for planting. It should be taken into account that in the area where watermelons were grown, it will be possible to plant this crop again only after 6–8 years.

Sandy loam or sandy soil is best suited for planting watermelons, and its pH value should be 6.5–7. The site should be prepared in advance and done in autumn time. When digging the soil, fertilizers should be added to it, so 1 square meter plot, 40–45 grams of superphosphate, 24–35 grams of ammonium sulfate, 4–5 kilograms of rotted manure and 15–25 grams of potassium salt are taken. If the soil is heavy, then you need to add 1-2 buckets of sand per square meter. Fresh manure cannot be added to the soil.

Rules for planting seedlings

Holes should be made in the prepared bed, the distance between them can vary from 100 to 150 cm, and a distance of 200 cm should be left between the rows. From 1.5 to 2 liters of water should be poured into each hole. When planting seedlings, it is necessary to bury them down to the cotyledon leaf blades. After planting, the soil must be compacted, after which its surface around the plant within a radius of 10 centimeters must be covered with sand, which will help avoid the development of root rot. The planted seedlings need to be watered with lukewarm water. It should be remembered that until the leaf plates restore turgor, the plant must be protected from direct sunlight.

If the summer period in the region is quite short and cold, then it is recommended to grow watermelons in greenhouses, since the duration of the growing season of such a plant in some cases reaches 150 days, and in the northern regions there are much fewer warm summer days. To speed up the process, it is recommended to grow seedlings in room conditions, then it is planted in a greenhouse under a double film covering.

Seeds are sown for seedlings in the third ten days of April. Planting of grown seedlings in a greenhouse can be done immediately after the soil in it has warmed up well (up to 12–14 degrees). Do not forget to prepare the soil in the garden bed in advance; to do this, the top layer to the depth of the spade bayonet must be removed. The resulting trench should be filled with humus and hay; this layer should be sprinkled with nitrogen-containing fertilizer on top, and then it should be poured with hot water. On top of this layer you need to lay the previously removed layer of soil. The top of the bed must be covered with a black covering material; it will need to be removed only before planting the seedlings.

Planting holes are placed on the beds at a distance of 0.7 m from each other. When planting, do not forget to bury the plant to a depth of 10 centimeters in the soil. After planting, you can immediately install a trellis to which the growing canes will be tied. To reap a good harvest, you must remember to let several bees into the greenhouse. However, it is much better if you pollinate the flowers yourself, keeping in mind that the lifespan of male flowers is only a few hours. It is necessary to pick off several male flowers and carefully tear off all their petals. Alternately apply their anthers to the stigmas of female flowers. It is very good if each of the female flowers is pollinated by several male flowers at once. It is necessary to artificially pollinate watermelons morning time, while in the greenhouse the air temperature should be within 18–20 degrees. It should also be noted that at night before pollination, the air temperature in the greenhouse should not be less than 12 degrees.

In order for the lashes to grow faster, they will need pinching, and it must be taken into account that no more than 3-5 leaf plates should remain above the fruit, and all those shoots that are very weak must be removed. It should be noted that 1 bush should have no more than 5 ovaries, so the extra ones will have to be cut off.

The plants are fed for the first time after their lashes reach a length of 0.25 to 0.5 m. To do this, grooves are made at a distance of 0.2 m from the plant; it is recommended to pour fermented liquid chicken manure into them (1:20) or mullein solution (1:10). The second time the watermelon is fed before the formation of buds, and the third time - when the ovaries form, however, it must be taken into account that in both the first and second cases, the grooves will need to be made at a distance of at least 0.4 m from the bushes. Organic fertilizers(chicken droppings or mullein) are very well suited for feeding this plant, so they are used in both the first and second cases. Once the fruits begin to actively grow, they should be turned regularly, which will allow them to ripen evenly. It is also very important to systematically ventilate the greenhouse.

If watermelons grow in open ground, then caring for them is quite simple. But in order to reap a good harvest, you should take into account several important nuances regarding the care of this crop. When caring for watermelons, you need to thin out the seedlings in a timely manner, water and weed the plants in a timely manner, as well as pinching the vines and loosening the soil surface. During the formation of 3 or 4 leaf blades, the seedlings will need to be thinned out, while one or two plants should remain in the hole, all excess seedlings should be cut off directly above the soil surface. If you wish, you can try to transplant excess plants, because there is a high chance that it will be successful. When the ovaries on the bush are fully formed, you need to select only 6 pieces and remove all the rest. If the fruit lies on the surface of the soil, then you need to place a non-rotting material (a piece of plastic, roofing felt or foil) under it.

Watering is carried out once every 7 days, but it must be plentiful; for this, 30 liters of water are taken per 1 square meter of land. If the weather is hot outside or the flowering period has begun, then a couple of such waterings will be needed per week, and it will be necessary to moisten both the surface of the soil around the plants and the ground between the rows. After the fruits are formed, a gradual reduction in watering is carried out, and half a month before harvesting it should be stopped altogether. During the summer period, plants need 3-4 abundant waterings: during the formation of 5-7 leaf blades, during the flowering period, and at the very beginning of fruit formation.

At the beginning of the growing season, when 1–2 days have passed after watering, it is necessary to loosen the surface of the area to a depth of 60 mm, and all weeds should be pulled out. Once the plants close in rows, the weeds will no longer be able to cause them any harm. In this regard, from now on it is recommended to stop removing weeds, as well as loosening the soil, since the watermelon root system extends in different directions and is extremely easy to injure with a hoe.

When half a month has passed after transplanting the seedlings into the ground, the watermelons will need additional feeding. For the first feeding, it is recommended to use a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 grams of substance per 10 liters of water), while a couple of liters of such a nutrient mixture is taken per 1 bush. Instead of saltpeter, you can use chicken manure (1:20) or mullein (1:10), while 15 grams will need to be dissolved in 10 liters of the mixture calcium chloride and 30 grams of superphosphate.

The plants are fed the second time during the formation of buds, with 6 grams of superphosphate and 4 grams of ammonium nitrate and calcium chloride taken per bush. If you feed watermelons with dry fertilizers, then the area must be watered both before and after feeding.

Diseases and pests of watermelon

Diseases

Most often, watermelons are affected by white, gray, black and root rot, powdery mildew - real and downy, anthracnose, angular and olive spots and mosaic. In order to significantly increase the resistance of this crop to diseases and pests, it is necessary to properly prepare the seeds for sowing and the soil for planting, and you must also follow all the rules of agricultural technology for this crop. In this case, the bushes will not hurt at all, and not a single pest will settle on them. But still, there is a danger of watermelons being affected by diseases and pests, and therefore you need to be able to promptly identify diseased plants and treat them.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. A white-gray coating appears on the surface of the foliage. The affected leaf blades die off, the fruits lose their taste and become unsweetened, and their deformation and rotting are also observed.

Downy mildew (downy mildew) is also a fungal disease. However, in this case, only the old leaf blades are affected first and only then the young ones. Angular spots of a yellowish color form on the surface of the foliage, while a violet color appears on the underside. gray plaque. The fruits take on an ugly shape and their development stops.

If a bush is affected by olive spotting, then irregularly shaped spots will form on its entire above-ground part. Because of this, the leaf plates become corrugated, and olive-colored ulcers appear on the petioles and shoots. Drying and death of the ovaries is observed.

The main carriers of bacteriosis (angular spot) are pests. On the affected bushes, whitish oily spots appear on the above-ground parts. Over time, holes form on the leaf plates, then they die, the shoots wither, the fruits become transparent, soft and their growth stops.

Copperhead (anthracnose) is also a fungal disease. Because of it, there are yellow or brown spots on the leaf blades with pinkish-yellow pads. If the weather is humid, a pink coating appears on the surface. With severe damage, the bush dries out and dies.

Gray, white, black, and root rot are also considered fungal diseases. It should be taken into account that each of these diseases can lead to the death of plants and crops. Gray, black and white rot lead to the destruction of shoots, foliage and fruits of this crop, while root rot affects the root system of the bushes.

Cucumber mosaic is a viral disease that is currently considered incurable. The affected bush develops a mosaic pattern on the leaf blades, colored pale green and green color. There is a delay in growth of the bush, and bumps, swellings and dots appear on the surface.

Pests

Of all the harmful insects, the greatest danger to this plant are gnawing cutworms, melon aphids and wireworms.

The wireworm is the larva of a click beetle that looks like a tough piece of wire. Such an insect damages the seeds, as well as the seedlings of this plant.

The melon aphid causes significant harm to the watermelon, as it sucks the plant juices out of it. This pest is also considered the main carrier of such an incurable viral disease as mosaic.

Winter cutworms

Winter moths, as well as gnawing cutworms, lay oviposition on watermelon. Caterpillars emerge from the eggs and begin to eat the plant, gnawing its roots. Because of this, it turns yellow and dies.

Experts advise fighting fungal diseases with the help of fungicidal preparations: Bordeaux mixture, Decis, Fundazol, Skor, etc. Select suitable drug They will help you in a specialized store. But it will be much better instead to prevent the plants from getting sick; to do this, you need to adhere to the rules of agricultural technology for the given crop and crop rotation, and also properly care for the ripening fruits. In this case, problems with watermelons should not arise at all and you can forget about fungal diseases.

If aphids have settled on the bushes, then to destroy them you can use the folk way. To do this, you need to powder those parts of the plant on which the pest is located with a mixture consisting of tobacco dust and wood ash (1:1), sprinkle it with water. A third of an hour after treatment, the surface of the soil in the area needs to be loosened, which will destroy those pests that have fallen to the ground. To get rid of caterpillars, baits are made from sweet-tasting plant residues or pieces of cake. After some time, they are collected; this procedure will also help get rid of the wireworm. In order to install the bait, it is necessary to make a depression of half a meter in the ground, then pieces of sweet root vegetables and cake are thrown into it. Such holes must be covered with shields. The traps are opened after 1–2 days, the contents of the hole are removed and burned. It must be remembered that harmful insects, as a rule, settle on weakened bushes that are not properly cared for.

Watermelons are harvested only after they have reached the first stage of removable maturity, most often this occurs five days before full maturity. If the fruits are collected ahead of schedule, then there is a high probability that they will not ripen in storage. And watermelons collected later are not suitable for long-term storage.

To determine the state of first ripeness, it is necessary to evaluate the color of the seeds and fruit pulp, characteristic of each individual variety. Timely harvested fruits have pulp Pink colour, while lying down they ripen and its color changes to red, while the watermelon does not lose its sweetness. Late varieties of watermelons are suitable for the longest storage; they have a thick and dense rind, while the structure of the pulp is rough.

Watermelons of mid-season and early varieties They are harvested as they ripen, they can be used for processing (for pickling, pickling or making jam), and can also be eaten fresh. At the same time, harvesting of late varieties of watermelons, which are intended for long-term storage, is carried out before frost, using sharp knife or pruning shears, they are cut off together with a peduncle about 50 mm long. It is not recommended to tear the fruit from the shoot, since there is a high probability that rot will appear at the place of separation.

For long-term storage, fruits that are medium in size and have a glossy thick rind that should not be damaged (there should be no scratches, dents, cracks, or soft areas) are suitable. During transportation, it is prohibited to throw fruits, and they should not be placed on a hard surface while working in mandatory gloves must be used. When laying fruits, you need to make sure that they do not touch each other, which will prevent the development of fruit rot. Better conditions for storing watermelons, a well-ventilated room is considered, with an air humidity of 75 to 85 percent and a temperature of 1–4 degrees. There are several storage methods:

1. In the forest you need to collect dry moss, do this on a fine sunny day. Take a wooden box and line its bottom with a layer of moss, which should be quite thick. Then a watermelon is placed on top; it must be covered on all sides with the same moss. Then you can put other watermelons in the same box, but do not forget to cover each of them with moss.
2. Moss can be replaced with wood ash if desired. Watermelons can be placed in barrels or boxes, while sprinkling them with ashes. The containers are tightly closed and stored in the cellar.
3. Each of the fruits must be dipped into an alabaster or clay mash, the consistency of which should be similar to thick sour cream. Wait until the coating is completely dry and store the watermelons in the cellar.
4. You can replace alabaster or clay with paraffin or wax. They need to be melted using a water bath. After which, each watermelon should be covered with a layer that reaches a thickness of 0.5 cm. After this, the fruits are lowered into the cellar for storage.
5. Each watermelon must be wrapped in thick fabric, which must be natural. They are then placed in a net and suspended from the ceiling in the cellar.
6. It is necessary to install racks in the cellar, with straw placed on their shelves in a fairly thick layer. The fruits are laid out on these shelves, and do not forget to wrap them in straw.
7. Find something cool and absolutely cool in your house or apartment. dark place. This is where the fruits need to be stored, and they should be turned over every day.

Whatever storage method you choose, experts advise regularly inspecting watermelons (about once every 7 days), in this case you will be able to remove rotten fruits in a timely manner, which will avoid further spread of rot. If you choose the right variety, as well as the right method and place of storage, then watermelons can be stored until spring.

All watermelons that gardeners grow on their plots, as well as those that can be purchased in a store or on the market, are a species of the Watermelon genus. There are 2 varieties: the African tsamma melon (Citrullus lanatus var. citroides), this plant can be found in natural conditions in Botswana, South Africa, Namibia and Lesotho, and the woolly watermelon (Citrullus lanatus var. lanatus), familiar to almost everyone, this variety is found only in cultivated form. Woolly watermelon has a large number of varieties, most of which were born thanks to European, American and Asian breeders. These varieties will be described in more detail below.

All varieties of watermelons intended for cultivation in open soil are divided into early-ripening, mid-ripening and late-ripening (they are grown in regions with long and sufficiently warm in summer). When choosing a suitable variety of this plant, it is recommended to take into account several factors: drought and cold resistance, resistance to pests and diseases, as well as the ability to grow and the need for fertilizers.

1. Victoria. This is an American hybrid, the ripening time of which is 62 days (sometimes a little more). Watermelons have a round shape and weigh on average about 10 kilograms.
2. Skorik. Small greenish watermelons weigh about 4 kilograms. Along the edges they have blurry scalloped stripes. The delicate sweet pulp is red in color and has a high taste. The peel is thick.
3. Jenny. This American hybrid is ultra-early, ripening is observed from 54 days. On one bush grows from 4 to 6 green-white watermelons, of a standard size, they have thin stripes of a dark color. On average they weigh about 1.5 kilograms. The peel is thin, and the seeds are the size of a grape seed. The pulp has a rich color and excellent taste.
4. Stabolite. This variety is the best of all seedless hybrids. Ripening is observed from 62 days. Large, strong fruits have an elongated shape and tasty pulp. To pollinate such a hybrid, the Lady and Trophy varieties from the Nunems variety series are used.
5. Ogonyok. This variety was bred by Russian breeders. Small watermelons, covered with a thin peel, have very tasty pulp; on average, they weigh about 2 kilograms.
6. Dolby. This large-fruited American hybrid is distinguished by its stress resistance and productivity. Ripening is observed after 60 days.

1. Couch potato. Ripening time is 75–90 days. The variety is resistant to drought, diseases and pests. Greenish, medium-sized watermelons weigh about 5 kilograms. There are prickly stripes on the surface of the thin peel. Medium density The pulp is pink-red in color and has a pleasant taste.
2. Top Gun. This variety is one of the most popular American fruit varieties. Ripening time is 70–75 days. Large, round-shaped watermelons weigh about 10 kilograms. The pulp is crispy, dark red in color, and the seeds are small in size. This variety is resistant to anthracnose, and its fruits are well stored.
3. Dumara. This hybrid is distinguished by its productivity; ripening is observed from 75 days. The shape of watermelons is oval-cuboid, the flesh is tender and sweet, the seeds are also very tender.
4. Antey. Oval-cuboidal watermelons have tender flesh that is sweeter than other varieties. It is recommended to feed with organic fertilizers.
Spring. This variety is suitable for growing in both greenhouses and melon fields. Smooth watermelons have an elongated spherical shape and weigh about 3 kilograms. On the surface of their peel there is a barely noticeable mesh of green color against an olive background. The sweet and tender flesh is granular and dark red in color. Ripening time is about 105 days.
5. Icarus. The variety is resistant to drought and is characterized by productivity. Ripening period is 88–110 days. Watermelons weigh 3–16 kilograms. The dark green crust is very strong, with barely noticeable stripes on its surface. The very sweet pulp is raspberry-red in color. The fruits are stored very well (sometimes until March).
6. Chill. This variety is the most popular of all late varieties. Ripening time is about 100 days. Elliptical watermelons weigh 15–25 kilograms, they are weakly segmented, and there are almost black stripes on the surface of the strong, green-colored bark. The rich red flesh with a pinkish tint is very sweet. Watermelons can be stored for 3 months.
7. Melania. This is a hybrid of the Early variety, it ripens after 80 days. Watermelons are oval in shape and weigh about 12 kilograms. On the surface of the green crust there are wide stripes of dark green color. The dark red flesh is very crispy, the seeds are small.

If you want to grow some unusual variety, then you can choose the American hybrid California Cross, whose fruits are very large, or the Japanese variety from the island of Hokkaido Densuke, rarely grown in mid-latitudes, whose watermelon rind is almost black. The Pepkinos variety has very small watermelons that can be placed whole in your mouth. The seedless variety Red King is suitable for those who do not like seeds in watermelons. A rather unusual variety was created by a breeder from Astrakhan, its fruits have a muscat taste, and he also created the Lunny variety: the flesh of watermelons is yellow and has a lemon flavor.

It’s probably rare to meet a person who doesn’t like watermelons. However, not all of us have a plot to grow our favorite fruits and vegetables. This is the main reason why people are interested in how to grow watermelon at home.

Not everyone knows, but you can grow watermelons without using seedlings, but immediately permanent place. As a rule, seedlings are used to later transplant plants into a greenhouse. Garden How to grow watermelon in open ground

This is done so that the berries have time to ripen. And if we are talking about growing a fruit at home, then this stage can be safely skipped.

Basic steps to grow the most delicious watermelon on the planet

You should start by purchasing a large enough container, because watermelon has an extensive root system. A box measuring 50x50x30 cm is perfect for this. You can make it yourself, for example, from wooden boards. If this is not possible, then you can always take a basin or bucket. If the selected container is transparent, then it makes sense to wrap it in a dark-colored cloth. This measure is necessary to ensure that the roots do not dry out and turn green. The container must be filled with fertile soil with microelements.

You can purchase it at any garden or hardware store. Fortunately, nowadays even in some supermarkets you can find similar products, if, of course, they have a garden department. Thirty days before you plan to plant a watermelon, you will need to lime the soil. This is necessary so that the acidity is about 6 pH.

Before planting the seeds, they must first be soaked for about ten minutes in water at a temperature of more than 100C. You need to keep it until the seeds begin to hatch, after which they can be planted. Please note that under no circumstances should you separate the seeds.

How many seeds should I plant?

You don’t need much, because they can all rise. But three seeds would be the best option. It should be planted to a depth of about three centimeters. After the sprouts appear, you need to choose the strongest one and leave it.

Plant placement

The best place is by the window

No better place than the window sill. You can, of course, just place it near a window, but the plant must receive enough light. However, do not forget that the frame cannot be left open, otherwise there is a risk of freezing the heat-loving plant. Most best temperature For ripening the temperature is between +25 and +30 degrees. Until the fruit is formed, the plant will be considered a seedling. At night optimal temperature will be about +18 degrees. When you notice that the fruits begin to set, you should not sharply lower the room temperature. Leave it also at least +25 degrees. In addition, it should be remembered that humidity is destructive for watermelons. You need to remember that watering should be moderate; you should not overwater.

After three months you can harvest

Typically, if watermelons are grown in a greenhouse, it takes about three months. If we are talking about growing watermelon at home, then most likely it will take a little longer. If we are talking about growing at a time of year when daylight hours are less than twelve hours, then you should use fluorescent lamps. This is necessary to highlight the watermelon. Try to ensure that your lighting is clearly directed. Let it illuminate the plant as much as possible. In addition, you should use special reflective surfaces. Moreover, you should place them around the watermelon.

Vitamins and minerals for the plant

Like any other living creature, watermelon needs feeding. Try to do this according to a certain pattern. The most common method is primary fertilizing with phosphorus and nitrogen. Moreover, this is done in equal quantities. After you see fruit set, you should think about using a fertilizer that contains a large amount of potassium. And at this moment it is necessary to ensure that the fertilizing does not contain as much nitrogen as at the initial stage.

It makes sense to install a support in the container with which you can secure the shoots of your watermelon. The main stem, as a rule, is attached at a height of about one hundred centimeters. The side shoots are attached somewhat differently: they are pinched so that several leaves remain above the flower with the ovary.

Once you notice that the fruits have formed, there is no need to leave everything. Two are enough, all the rest need to be pinched off, because there will be no point in them. They will only take away all the juices and nutrients. If you leave more than two fruits, they will all remain small. When you see that the fruit has reached a size of about ten centimeters in diameter, it must be placed in gauze or mesh, after which it should be tied to a support. This is done to make it more durable.

By the way, when you grow watermelon at home, you should remember that it will not reach such a huge size as when planted in a greenhouse. However, the big advantage would be thinner skin. Typically, when growing a watermelon at home, you can get a fruit weighing about a kilogram.

If you don’t know which variety you should give preference to, then stop at seeds of varieties such as “Kakho”, “Ogonyok” or “Sibiryak”. These varieties are the most unpretentious for growing at home.

If the first time you fail to grow the kind of watermelon you wanted or if you don’t succeed at all, then don’t be too upset. Try again, just next landing You will need to take into account the mistakes made and not repeat them again. Juicy and sweet watermelons to you!

If you stick to certain rules, you can get a good harvest of watermelons in your garden or dacha. This crop requires long and warm summers. You can plant watermelons in open ground in all regions of Russia, with the exception of Siberia.

Caring for striped berries should include watering, thinning, fertilizing, loosening the soil and pruning. Watermelons are susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew, olive spot, and rot. In case of infection, watermelons are treated with fungicidal preparations.

Features of growing different varieties

The plant is native to Africa. The culture belongs to the Pumpkin family. The stems of watermelon are thin and highly branched. They can be curly or creeping. They can reach 4 m in length. Young leaves have thick pile. Then they become rough, hard, and have an egg-triangular shape. In length from 7 to 23 cm. Inflorescences are female, male and hermaphroditic. They have a boat shape. The fruit is a berry with many seeds. The flesh is usually pink or red, and outer shell green (usually with light stripes).

There are many varieties of watermelon, but they are all conditionally divided into 2 types - woolly watermelon and African tsamma melon (wild species).

All varieties are divided into 3 groups.

Early ripening ones include:

• Skorik.
• Victoria.
• Ogonyok.
• Dolby.
• Stabolite.
• Jenny.

The following are considered mid-season:

• Ataman.
• Couch potato.
• Top gun.
• Atey.
• Dumara.

The later ones include:

• Spring.
• Icarus.

Currently, even varieties have been bred in which the fruits have a lemon taste and the flesh is yellow. There are also hybrids with black skin.

The following varieties can be grown in the Moscow region:

1. 1. Skorik. The fruit is in the form of a ball weighing no more than 3 kg.
2. 2. Light. The harvest is stable, but small. Typically the weight is up to 2 kg.
3. 3. Crimson Sweet. Translated as “raspberry sugar”. Among the early ripening varieties, the fruits are the largest - up to 8 kg.
4. 4. Lazy. Fruits up to 4 kg. They have a fairly long shelf life - up to 3 months. Thanks to this, you can enjoy this watermelon even on New Year’s Day.

In Siberia, watermelons can only be grown in greenhouses. They must be strong. Polycarbonate or glass are suitable. In addition, another feature of growing watermelons in Siberia is that only seedlings are used here, and seeds cannot be placed in open ground.

The most suitable watermelon varieties for Siberia are the following:

1. 1. Chill. Withstands low temperatures well. The variety is early ripening. The growing season takes no more than 100 days. Fruits weigh up to 7 kg. The pulp is juicy and sweet. Another advantage is the long shelf life of the berries - up to 1 year. It has good transportability.
2. 2. Ultra early. This variety is considered quite early ripening. Its growing season lasts up to 2.5 months. The pulp of the berries is sugary. They weigh 4-5 kg.
3. 3. Photon. This is a mid-early variety. It takes 80-100 days to ripen. The plant is not demanding on the soil, is resistant to diseases, the number of seeds in the berry is small, and the pulp is tender. The weight of the fetus is 3-6 kg.
4. 4. Charleston Gray. The variety is recognizable by the elongated shape of its large fruits. They weigh up to 10 kg. The culture is unpretentious in care.
5. 5. Siberian Lights. This variety was bred specifically for areas with harsh climatic conditions. The plant is resistant to low temperatures, lack of lighting and drought. The crop almost never suffers from fusarium. The bark of the berry is dark, without stripes. There are few seeds. Fruit weight - up to 4 kg.
6. 6. Siberian Giant. This is another variety that is bred for northern latitudes. It is characterized by frost resistance, large size (the fruit weighs up to 7 kg), and long shelf life.
7. 7. Ultra early ripening. The fruits are stored for a long time. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. The culture is unpretentious in care.

Landing rules

Watermelons can be propagated through seeds and seedlings. The first option is suitable for regions with warm climatic conditions.

Sowing seeds should be done in the spring as follows:

1. 1. Select a site. The soil on it should have time to warm up to 13 0 C.
2. 2. Soak the seeds in clean water until the sprouts hatch.
3. 3. Make holes in the area. They should be 10 cm deep. The distance between the holes should be 1 m.
4. 4. Place fertilizer in the hole. It is recommended to mix humus with 1 tsp. ammophoska and 1 tbsp. l. wood ash.
5. 5. Place the seeds there and sprinkle with substrate.

The first shoots usually appear within 1.5-2 weeks. If you plant watermelon seeds in open ground in regions with a cold climate, you must wait until the end of May or the beginning of June. You can also plant under film - a kind of greenhouse. In this case, the harvest is obtained much earlier. Some people prefer to cover the space between the holes with black film. It attracts Sun rays, prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Another method is seedling. It is suitable for northern regions.

Landing is carried out as follows:

1. 1. Prepare the substrate correctly. It is recommended to mix peat, fine sand and turf soil.
2. 2. Select pots. They should be large and wide. You need to make holes at the bottom to drain excess water.
3. 3. Place watermelon seeds in special containers. This is recommended to be done in late spring. Keep containers in a warm place with a temperature of about 30 0 C.
4. 4. Care for sprouts. Water the seedlings periodically. It is necessary to ensure that water does not get on the seedlings. If necessary, you need to turn on additional lamps to improve lighting.
5. 5. Carry out hardening. This should be done 2 weeks before planting the sprouts in open ground. It is necessary that they get used to such conditions. For this purpose, a container with planting material should be taken outside or onto the balcony for 1-2 hours. Gradually you need to increase the interval - add an hour every day.

Mandatory preliminary preparation area before moving the seedlings into open ground. The soil should be well heated and loosened. The place should be chosen with protection from strong winds and drafts. Watermelon seedlings feel best in areas where legumes, alfalfa, and cabbage were previously grown. You should not choose a place where eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes, bell pepper. The ideal option is sandy loam or sandy soil. It is necessary to add potassium compounds and superphosphate to it. If the soil is too heavy, then fine river sand is added to it.

Planting watermelon sprouts in open ground is as follows:

1. 1. Dig holes. The distance between them should be 1-1.3 m. 1.5-2 m should be left between the rows. It is recommended to place the sprouts in a checkerboard pattern.
2. 2. Deepen the seedlings into the holes and sprinkle with substrate. There should be shoots with leaves on top.
3. 3. Place sand near the seedlings. It will prevent diseases such as root rot.
4. 4. Water the seedlings.

In the future, all that remains is to take care of the culture.

Nuances of care

Watermelon care is as follows:

1. 1. Thinning the sprouts. As soon as they appear, some need to be pulled out - only the weak or sick ones. If healthy seedlings have sprouted too close to each other, they can be planted in different places.
2. 2. Watering. It should be timely and regular, once a week. For 1 sq. m of plot is required 3 liters of water. It should be poured not only at the root of the plant, but also in the places between the rows. It is best to use rain or settled water at room temperature. During hot weather, it is necessary to water the crop twice a week. When the fruits begin to appear, watering must be gradually reduced, and 2 weeks before the berries are picked, it should be stopped completely.
3. 3. Loosening the soil. This must be done the next day after watering. By loosening the soil, the roots gain access to oxygen. At the same time, you can remove weeds. The grass is not dangerous for watermelon, since its root system is quite branched. Weeding should be done carefully so as not to damage it.
4. 4. Feeding. The first time it should be carried out 2 weeks after planting the crop. To do this, use chicken droppings, mullein or ammonium nitrate. As for the last substance, you will need 20 g of product per 2 liters of water. This is enough for one bush. If you use mullein, you will need to prepare a solution in a ratio of 1:10. When using chicken manure, you need to make a solution in a ratio of 1:10. For each bucket of such solutions, it is necessary to add another 15 g of double superphosphate and the same amount of calcium chloride. The second time fertilizing should be done when the fruits begin to set. In this case, it is recommended to use superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. You can mix 4 g of calcium chloride and ammonium nitrate with 3 g of double superphosphate. This is enough for 1 bush. Fertilizers are supposed to be applied in powder form, but then you need to water the crop. The mixture can be dissolved in water.
5. 5. Trimming. No more than 5-6 fruits should be left on one bush. They should be the largest and healthiest in appearance. The rest will have to be cut off, otherwise all the fruits will not be able to develop fully.

As for diseases, watermelon suffers from the following:

1. 1. Powdery mildew. A whitish-gray coating appears on the leaves.
2. 2. Peronosporosis. Also called downy mildew. Not only a gray coating appears on the leaves, but also yellow spots.
3. 3. Anthracnose. Pink-yellow pads form on the leaves.
4. 4. Olive spot. Spots appear on leaves and stems irregular shape. The latter also become corrugated.
5. 5. Bacteriosis. Oily patches appear on leaves and stems.
6. 6. Rot. It comes in root, black, white and gray. The cause is a fungus.
7. 7. Cucumber mosaic. The disease cannot be cured. A peculiar pattern appears on the leaves.

Although watermelon is considered an unpretentious crop, with improper care such diseases develop quite quickly. Fungicides control fungal infections. The plant cannot be saved from bacterial and viral infections. Among the insects that are dangerous to watermelon are cutworms, wireworms and melon aphids. Insecticides help with them.

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