The roof of the house is made of chopped logs. Under the roof of my house, construction is in full swing, choosing natural tiles for the roof of a log house

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Building a roof is a long and labor-intensive task, but it is necessary to protect the house from bad weather and heat loss. At self-construction construction, installing roof rafters with your own hands is completely doable if you comply with all the requirements for creating a roof base. The main thing is to have the necessary knowledge and at least some experience in construction. Don’t forget: the condition of the house depends on the reliability of the roof. In order to do everything correctly, you need to know the features of creating a rafter system and perform all the work sequentially.

Construction of roofs and rafter systems

The roofs of houses are usually inclined planes - they are called slopes. At the base of the roof slopes there is a rafter system on which the sheathing for the flooring is laid roofing materials.

The lower ends of the rafters are usually supported by a mauerlat. At the intersection of the slopes, ribs are obtained - inclined and horizontal. Horizontal elements are called ridge. At the intersections of slopes formed by incoming corners, valleys and grooves are installed. The edges of the roof protruding above the walls of buildings are called pediment or cornice overhangs. They are located horizontally, and a ledge extends beyond the outer walls. After laying the sheathing, then the rafters above them, the roofing material is collected. Before installing the roof, heat, steam and waterproofing must be installed.

Depending on the slope of the roof slopes, roofs can be flat or pitched. The former have a slope of 2.5-10%, and the latter – more than 10%. Slopes are the planes of the roof that allow water to drain from it.

Roofs are divided into the following types:

single-pitched - supported by two external walls of different heights;
gable - they are supported by two external walls of equal height (more details: " ");
tent - they have four slopes, which have the shape of identical triangles converging at a single point;
hipped (hip) - roofs with triangular slopes at the ends; when it does not reach the eaves, the roof is called half-hip;
mansard (broken) gable roofs - two planes of such roofs are rectangles connected at obtuse angles.

Type pitched roof mainly depends on what rafter installation scheme was used. Rafters are the main load-bearing elements of the roof, and they must not only withstand the weight of the roof, but also be resistant to snow and wind pressure. To perform calculations of the rafter system, it is necessary to be guided by the type of roofing material, the characteristic wind strength of the region and the size of the snow cover.

The rafter legs are connected to each other in order to increase the rigidity of the frame. To prevent the roof from being blown away in a strong wind, the frame must be connected to the “box” of the house even before it is built. When building private houses, timber truss systems are usually used - they are easy to process and install.

Types and features of rafters

Before moving on to how to install rafters, you need to understand their structure and types.

Rafters can be layered or hanging. Methods of installing rafters and their type are selected based on roofing materials, loads in the form of wind and snow, and roof slope. Hanging rafters rest only on the outermost two points, for example, on the walls of the house. In this case, intermediate supports are not needed. Hanging rafters are designed to bend and compress. Also, such a system creates a significant horizontal thrust load, which is transmitted to the walls. It can be reduced by using metal or wooden ties connecting the rafters.

The tie-rods are placed at the base of the rafters, and the screed is also a floor beam. This method is usually used to create an attic roof (read: ""). The strings can also be located above the rafters. The higher the puffs are located, the more reliable and powerful they should be. Such rafter systems are used in cases where the spans are 7-12 meters, and additional supports are not provided. Thus, the main elements of the hanging system are considered to be rafter legs with tightening of the lower belt.

Layered rafters are built differently. They are installed in houses that have an additional load-bearing wall or supports located in the center relative to the external load-bearing walls. The ends of such rafters rest on the side walls, and for the middle part there is support from load-bearing pillars or an internal wall. Elements of such rafters work like beams - only for bending.

Installation of one roofing system over several spans involves alternating installation of suspended and inclined roof trusses. In places where there are no intermediate supports, hanging rafters are installed, and where they are, inclined rafters are installed. If the roof span (the space between supports) exceeds 6.5 meters (with additional element supports 10-12 meters) use layered rafters.

This design is created in the same way as in houses with frame system. The sheathing is made from solid double beams or sparse flooring boards, and is attached to the rafters with nails.

The sheathing for soft roofing, for example, roofing felt, is made in the form of a continuous flooring. It should consist of two layers of boards - the result is a double flooring. The top layer of the sheathing is protective, the bottom is considered working. Single solid or sparse (having a gap of 20-30 millimeters) flooring is used as a base for covering asbestos-cement slabs. A lathing made of beams with a base of 50x50 millimeters is used as a basis for classic slate, corrugated slate and tiles.

Rafter legs can be fastened in several ways, depending on the materials from which the structure was erected:

by connecting with top harness wooden frame buildings;
connection with the upper crowns (relevant for log and cobblestone houses);
by connecting to support beams (used for stone houses). In this case, the thickness of the Mauerlat should be 150-160 millimeters. It can be solid (the timber is laid along the entire length of the building) or partial (the timber is laid only at the junction with the rafter legs).

Rafter legs of a small cross-section must be protected from sagging - for this, a lattice of struts, crossbars and racks is used. At the same time, racks and struts are made from logs with a diameter of 130-140 millimeters. Correct installation of rafters on the roof involves connecting them with tie rods. To prevent the rafter legs from sliding along the tie and chipping, they are cut in with a tooth 1/3 the size of the tie and a tenon is created. Sometimes both are used at the same time. By cutting the rafter leg into the end of the tie, the tooth is moved as far as possible. The tie can remain unharmed if the rafters are installed 30-40 centimeters from its edge.

Installation of rafters

For creating truss structure You can only take lumber of 1-2 grades without rot and wormholes. Boards and beams are cut to the required length using a circular saw using the cross cutting method, then the products are trimmed using the same machine according to a given template. The width of the elements is sawed off to circular saw by longitudinal cutting.

The technology for installing rafters is as follows .

The system elements are assembled on the striker in templates. The parts that need to be connected are placed at the striker in a convenient order so that they can be used without unnecessary movements and effort. Before assembly begins, a diagram of the rafters for connection is drawn on the striker with charcoal or chalk. life size. On the striker you can stuff strips that will fix the rafter legs in assembled form.

After the cutting is completed and the control assembly is carried out, the rafters are marked and completed. The control assembly of the rafter legs is necessary so that installation can be performed without adjustment. IN rafter elements provide places for installing bolts and dowels. Rafters with a short span are sometimes assembled directly at factories and delivered to the construction site in finished form.

Rafter log structures

In the manufacture of log rafters, round debarked timber with a diameter of 18 centimeters is used. Logs must be straight and even, without rot, wormholes, or curvature. Small irregularities are processed with an ax along the cord.

Installing rafters on a log house means creating support for the rafter legs on the upper crowns of the building. The reliability of the design depends on how correctly this is done. The ties with which the rafter legs will be connected must be made of wood High Quality. The log selected for tightening is trimmed to the required length. Since round timber is most often supplied 6.5 meters long, tie rods for large spans are usually made from two or three logs connected along their length. Then they select the material for the rafter legs.

Struts and racks that are shorter are made from scraps or short logs. The ends of the selected products are trimmed and markings are made according to a template made of plywood or thin sheet metal. At the end of the marking, the cutting points are cut out and cleaned with a sharply sharpened ax.

Composite beams on plate dowels are used for arranging floors and upper chords of a truss - they are assembled from beams on wooden dowels. The most common precast section design is the beam. It is a structure of two or three beams made of coniferous wood, connected to each other with plate dowels and made using hardwood (most often oak, sometimes birch), used for installation. The dowels in the beams are installed along the entire length, with the exception of the middle part, in which the shear forces are insignificant.

Beams are produced from first-grade timber, pre-dried to a moisture level of no more than 20%. This figure for plate dowels for beams should be no more than 10%.

Before installing the rafters on the log house, the beams are assembled. This can be done using a special device consisting of two stands (supports), they have a shaft that rotates in two bushings. There are bars on the trestles on each side of the shaft. Using tie rods, the ends of the beams are moved. In order to achieve the required mounting lift in the beams, two spacers with a thickness suitable for the rise are attached to the shaft.

After the ends of the beams are tied, their middle becomes curved under the influence of the spacers, and the beams bend based on the amount of lift. When bending beams, you need to pay attention to ensuring that the planes of the beams in contact with each other are adjusted to each other.

In general, the installation of rafters during the construction of a bathhouse roof is identical to the assembly of the structure on the house. Before that, the Mauerlat is installed, the truss is assembled and the sheathing is made.

After completing the installation of the rafter system and sheathing, you can begin laying the roofing material. When creating a roof, do not forget about heat, hydro and vapor barrier, especially if you plan to use the attic.

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In recent years, the popularity of log houses has been growing, and this is no coincidence. Such buildings, be it a house or a bathhouse, amaze with their unique atmosphere, which brings people closer to their origins. Is different natural wood environmental safety, and this is not its only advantage. The microclimate in such houses is always healthy and pleasant, but we must remember the characteristics of the logs. Structures made from them are characterized by dimensional instability.

Fluctuations in humidity can lead to certain linear movements that will be observed even after construction is completed. It must be said that the greatest activity in the movement of elements of a wooden structure is observed in the first few years. Then it decreases significantly, but the shrinkage does not disappear completely. After construction, the forest can sink by 20%, and when designing the house itself, as well as its individual elements, this must always be taken into account. Basically, the size changes across the logs, but the length of the trunk itself shrinks slightly.

Building a roof over a built log house is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. Such work requires enormous skill, knowledge of materials and carpentry skills. Before you get started, you will need to practice. In this article we will look at methods for installing roofs over a log house and talk about important stages installation Let's hope that the information will be useful for craftsmen and those who are taking on such work for the first time.

Flawless installation can only be achieved by taking into account the shrinkage of walls made of logs. You may need knowledge of ancient roofing technologies and modern installation methods. You need to understand that taking into account the characteristics of the material is not enough to correctly build a roof. There are components to which it is important to pay special attention so that the roof does not deform over time. It is necessary to choose the most rational method of construction. To do this, you should take into account the forces acting on each log and choose the right ways to dampen the action of these forces. Our company’s employees will develop it taking into account all the features of this material and project.

It's no secret that log houses go well with a roof that has two slopes. Knowing what technologies are usually used, it is quite possible to carry out high-quality installation of the rafter system gable roof on the log house. Typically, the roof slope angle chosen is from 45 degrees and even up to 65. The figures below clearly demonstrate the types of roof angles for log houses. The roof can be:

with insulation;
without the use of insulation;
attic;
roofless.

It is noteworthy that construction from logs retains ancient traditions, but also includes new technologies that allow wood to move freely without the risk of destruction of the structure. The fact is that installing a gable roof rafter system on a log house involves two methods:

Installation takes place on males, namely on chopped log gables. The load-bearing parts rest on the gables. Then the sheathing itself is laid.
Roofs based on the rafter system. They are built according to all the rules and regulations dictated by existing technologies. These roofs are hanging type, or inclined. The gables themselves can be covered with boards, which significantly reduces the construction budget.

In some cases, the rafter and male system are combined. In the middle of the roof of the male type in in this case a hanging truss is installed. Often the beam of the ceiling-type log house itself - the translation - can act as the basis for installing inclined rafters, and in some cases it acts as a tie that combines the elements into a triangle called a hanging triangle. The principle of the device can only be understood by familiarizing yourself with classic options installations. Let's look at some important points that should not be overlooked.

1. The main features of making a roof on males

When it comes to the male scheme, here you can use huge benefits, provided by chopped boxes. They can be assembled and also disassembled without difficulty, like a constructor. To do this, you need to remove the crowns from their places and install them on a platform that is ideal for these purposes. The area must be level.

When work takes place on solid ground, it is much more convenient. Spacers made of aspen chocks are mounted under the crown itself. They will reproduce the previous rows of the logs themselves. The result is the top of a house made of logs, which converges like a wedge. It is built as usual, but the width of the end walls becomes much thinner. The edges of the gables will resemble steps. It is not long logs that are laid on the walls of the existing box, but rather logs. They should not be inserted into all rows, but only after 2-3 rows. The sheathing will then be mounted on the floor, then roofing type material will be used.

A slightly ridged type will unite the tops of the existing males. The log that completes the pediment is always cut exactly at 2 edges. In this case, the protrusions resembling steps that the male has obtained must be sawed off or hewn into the shape of a triangle. Remaining at the top open areas filled with shorties. Few people know, but the old craftsmen, when carrying out fastening, never used fasteners when installing the presented roof. This greatly extended the life of the wood, since there were no metal rods inside it that were prone to rust. Such structures could last for several hundred years.

2. How slabs and rafters are combined

In some cases it is not possible to construct a male roof. This can occur when the excess has been cut off from the legs or males too much, and the cut-in joints have suffered. In such situation regular option the top should be supplemented with rafters, thereby eliminating the need to cut off the humps.

Alignment should occur along the very edges on top of the existing rafter legs. The rafters themselves should be created strictly according established template, the cuts are always marked in it, as well as the lengths of the legs. High precision cutting of future joints is not very important. It is better that the bowls are 5 cm larger than the arbis itself, since the log house will sag significantly for a long time and lose its former height. Behind the settling frame, the bottom of the existing rafters near the roof will sag, and the connection angle will decrease.

It is the wide notch that can guarantee complete safety during displacement. It is important that there is a small gap between the tops of the legs of the rafters resting on the ridge beam. When the rafters begin to gradually move apart from below, they will gradually move closer at the top. After the moment when shrinkage occurs, the tops must be connected with an overlay or a special tightening. Sometimes they are connected using a hinge joint and do not wait for shrinkage to occur.

In order for the roof to be reliable and not to be demolished from the house, it is necessary to tie the rafters through one, this happens in the 2nd crown from the top, into which the pins are driven, and wire twists are used for connection. Gradually the twists will weaken as they shrink, then they need to be tightened.

3. Layered rafters

The fastening is similar to the previous one, but this option does not require slugs. The legs of the rafters are called layered for the reason that their top and bottom rest on supports that are completely independent. In this case, the heels from below rest on the crown, and it serves as a power plate. If we consider resting the top, then it must be said that in such a situation there are several options.

A prince's or ridge's line can be laid between the males. It is important that the tops of the existing rafters, which are laid flat, are not fastened together, or they are connected using a hinge.
A wall that is capital. There must certainly be some gap left on top of the rafters themselves.
A ridge structure is installed using the matrices, mounted under the beam. Males will not be needed. To reliably provide compensation for shrinkage, it is necessary support pillars install on devices that enable regulation. We are talking about screw structures.

4. Hanging type circuit

The legs of the rafters were called hanging ones, since they seem to hang over the box itself. They rest on the walls. A part of the rafter will serve as a support for the top. And the heels from below are connected using the tightening method. As a result, the rafters begin to resemble a triangle with equal sides. It is often called a truss, or called an arch. It is the tightening that is ready to accept the thrust that is transmitted to the walls.

The expansion is compensated, and this is a huge plus. A beam called a ceiling beam may well act as a tightening. It is impossible not to note another advantage of the hanging or layered option. The roof is assembled at the bottom; it is not necessary to go upstairs. Under safe conditions, all rafter triangles can be adjusted and joined together. But such a system is not suitable for buildings with large spans. If the spans are more than 5 m, then the tie rods for them will bend from their own weight.

You must understand that the rafter system of a gable roof on a log house is installed taking into account all the important points, otherwise it may collapse. The presented diagrams and examples will help you choose the best option for construction. Whatever option you choose, it is better to turn to professionals in your field.

The InterCity company is ready to offer you best projects log houses and high level professionalism to implement similar design. The best specialists of the company will adapt any of the main versions to individual conditions. By collaborating with us, you do not have to come to the site in order to supervise the work. InterCity is a team of professionals who can implement any project you choose.

All photos from the article

The ridge girder or, as it is also called, the roof ridge log is important element rafter system. Moreover, the strength of the roof largely depends on this detail, since the purlin connects the roof trusses into a single system.

Below we will take a closer look at what this part is and what function it performs.

What is a ridge log

So, a ridge purlin is a log crowning the roof. The very name “purlin” indicates that the beam is located from wall to wall, or more precisely from pediment to pediment. True, in hip roofs this detail is short, since they do not have gables.

As mentioned above, this part combines the trusses into a single structure. The connection of the beam with the rafters is carried out in the ridge unit. Moreover, in some cases the span serves as a support for the upper part of the rafter legs.

This frame element is made from beams, however, if the roof is made of logs, then a log with a diameter of 150-200 mm is also used as a ridge element. If the building is large, the span may consist of two connected parts.

Types of roofs and the function of the ridge span

First of all, it should be said that all elements of the roof are interconnected with each other, accordingly, they cannot be considered separately. Moreover, depending on the type of roofing structure, the part in question can perform different functions. Therefore, below we will familiarize ourselves with the most common options for roofing systems.

So that's it existing species frames can be divided into several most common types:

Type	Peculiarities
With load-bearing gables	In this case, the beam rests on the gables, which, in fact, represent the upper part of the load-bearing walls. This method erecting a roof is the simplest. However, in this case, as a rule, construction costs increase, since more wall materials are required, the price of which is always quite high.
Using racks	The principle of such a system is based on the use of racks installed on load-bearing walls. Thus, the beam is laid on the racks.
Hanging	In this case, the span does not serve as a support for the rafter legs, but only connects them into a single system. Often hanging systems They do it without running at all.
Attic	The basis is made up of broken hanging rafters. This frame allows you to expand attic space, which is most often used as living space.

Below we will take a closer look at these designs and the features of their DIY assembly.

Frame with load-bearing gables

As mentioned above, this roof is the simplest, since the load-bearing function is performed by the walls of the house. Typically, the beam not only rests on the gables, but also passes through them, which provides an overhang. True, you can also create an overhang by lengthening the sheathing.

Every developer dreams of building a beautiful reliable roof and... forget about her, if not forever, then at least for a long time. We will talk now about how to realize this dream.

Choosing roofing material for your future log house is a very delicate process. I want the roof to be beautiful and durable. The existing variety of roofing materials is shocking at first. What to choose? Everything is presented on the market: from the banal roofing felt and the well-known slate to the more exotic slate, reeds and shingles. When such a question arose before us, we set a clear criterion for ourselves: sufficient durability and modern appearance with an optimal price/quality ratio.

As a result of the analysis, two candidates remained: metal tiles and soft tiles. It is no coincidence that these two roofing materials are now the most common. My wife advocated for metal tiles, but I liked soft tiles. Both materials have their drawbacks, which stopped us in our final choice.

The sound insulation of a metal tile roof leaves much to be desired. Insulation, at best, will only change the tone of the noise of rain, wind or the footsteps of our feathered neighbors. The second drawback is the increased formation of condensation, which increases the risk of moisture penetration into the insulation and increases corrosion of the roof itself. The fact is that metal tiles are more protected from the outside. When self-tapping screws expose an unprotected part of the metal, and besides, condensation accumulates in the places where the profile is attached to the sheathing, all the conditions for corrosion are created. Moreover, corrosion develops hidden and will make itself felt at the most unpredictable moment. From conversations with builders, another unpleasant factor emerged. Metal tiles require delicate installation. It is enough for the roofer to turn on his heel while standing on sprayed metal tiles, and this mineral chip will work like sandpaper - cutting off all layers of protection. Of course, all these scratches can be painted over, but are you sure that this will be done?

Soft tiles - comparatively new material and its durability is still based more on laboratory tests. Be sure to pay attention to the quality of the material, try the “scales” for bending and breaking. Inexpensive models, especially domestic ones, are often simply torn apart. As a fan of soft tiles, I had to study their properties in detail and defend their advantages in family councils. As far as I understand, soft tiles provide an absolute advantage only for complex roofs when cutting off roofing material is minimized.

Once, while still at the stage of making the log house, we got into a conversation with Denis Migachev (general director of the Rus Log Company company, which built the log house for us). After listening to our horror stories, either about a crow breaking through a soft tile on a ridge with its beak, or about the drumming noise of rain on metal tiles (my wife and I were having a comic “tug of war”), Denis asked if we had thought about natural tiles. He considered my words that I was not a Rockefeller inappropriate, explaining that we were not talking about ceramic, but about cement-sand tiles (CST). At his suggestion, we began to study this area and found out that the price of the issue was indeed comparable to the cost of high-quality soft and metal tiles. So for our gable roof, with an area of 125 sq.m., a complete set of Frankfurt tile materials from the Braas company amounted to about 70 thousand rubles. (2008 prices) And this includes all the minimum necessary additional elements, and they are precisely the most expensive.

Advice
For roofs log houses We recommend natural tiles. It has increased weight, which reduces the shrinkage period of the log house and prevents possible deformation of the logs. Denis Migachev, General Director of the construction company "Rus Log"

Why didn't we pay attention to the CHR earlier? I asked myself this question with surprise. Probably, stereotypes came into play that natural tiles are inaccessible to the average person. Fortunately, times are changing, and if in the dashing nineties rare cell phones were just a mandatory addition to crimson jackets, now grandmothers everywhere send SMS to their grandchildren (children learn the alphabet using them), and parents’ “mobile phones” have become the favorite toys of children. Apparently the same thing happened with natural tiles, I just wasn’t ready for it yet. Price is pricey, but we wanted to understand what the CHR is. How does it differ from ceramic tiles, and if it is significantly (2-3 times) cheaper, then why. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this roofing material?

As it turned out, the history of the issue goes back to post-war years. After the Second World War, it was necessary to rebuild Europe. There was no question about roofing material - only natural tiles. But existing technologies The production of ceramic tiles could not provide the required volumes, and the price was prohibitively high.

The solution was proposed by Rudolf Braas (the company “Braas” was named after him). Instead of the labor-intensive and energy-intensive technology for the production of ceramic tiles, the technology for creating cement-sand tiles of the Frankfurt model was proposed. What is the difference?

When producing ceramic tiles in a special mold, under high pressure, the clay blank is given the required shape, then the blank is dried, a color coating is applied on top, and then the tile is fired in a kiln at a temperature of about 1000 degrees. The first procedure is difficult to put on stream and this becomes a “bottleneck” for a sharp increase in production volumes.

The technique proposed by Braas, on the contrary, is very technologically advanced and does not require high expenses for firing. The composition of CPC is also natural: quartz sand, Portland cement, water, iron oxide pigment (it colors the entire structure of the tile) and acrylic dye (for coloring the surface of the tile). At the heart of everything is the conveyor. The colored concrete mass is poured into a continuous line of molds, and on a conveyor it is given the required shape by rolling rollers. wet surface Acrylic dye is applied and then, within 12 hours, the workpiece hardens at a temperature of about 60 degrees. After this, the acrylic dye is reapplied.

This photo of the roof described in the article was taken in 2013 from the attic bedroom. By the way, most of the author’s articles, published later, were no longer included in the Landowner magazine, but were published on the pages of our website. In particular, a story about the completion of the roofing pie in the house and finishing the attic ceiling

Like ordinary concrete, tiles only increase their strength over time. The advantages of CPC include painting the entire mass of tiles (there will be no sudden color change on chips or cuts) and the absence of unfilled pores (usually organic inclusions burn out during firing) - the tiles absorb less moisture.

In addition to the fact that the tiles are natural and therefore environmentally friendly, they have a number of additional advantages: they muffle the noise of rain and wind well, do not heat up so much in the heat, provide better ventilation of the roofing pie, and are easy to repair (only the tiles around the perimeter are screwed to the sheathing, the rest lie free ). In terms of service life it is positioned as “eternal”.

Don't let the heavy weight of such a roof scare you. In fact, the rafter system is designed for a significant snow and wind load (about 200 kg/m2) and the share of the weight of the roof itself, even a tiled one (50 kg/m2), is not so large here. For example, we didn’t even need to adjust the design of the house’s rafter system.

So, we have decided on the roofing material, now the question arose of how to build and who can be trusted to do it. We knew that building a roof for log house The operation is very specific. After considering several commercial proposals, we settled on a company from Vyborg, which had previously made our foundation quite well (the construction of the foundation and log house is described in the August issue of “Landowner”). The personal factor and mutual trust mean a lot, and we have already been convinced of their ability to solve complex issues that arise. In addition, the company that manufactured the log house was ready to provide the necessary consultations.

First, it was necessary to decide on the procedure for solving two issues caused by the characteristics of a log house (the presence of shrinkage of the log house, uneven wall surfaces, etc.):

how to connect the rafters to each other and to the elements of the log house (ridge logs, beams and top logs of the walls);
how to ensure in the future an elegant connection between the sloping ceiling of the attic and the vertical log walls

The fact is that the rafter system of a log house differs from classical schemes layered and hanging rafters. In the first years of its life, the log house shrinks by 5-10% of its height. During the shrinkage of the attic floor, the rafters should smoothly slide along the beds (these are logs parallel to the ridge log) and the top logs of the walls on which the rafters rest. A fixed connection of rafters is permissible only with a ridge log.

At the ridge, the rafters can be connected to each other end-to-end or overlapping. To connect the rafters, it is better to use steel plates with bolts, or, in extreme cases, nails. The use of self-tapping screws is undesirable, since they are relatively fragile and may not withstand heavy loads.

The rafters themselves are edged boards section 150..200 by 50 mm. It is advisable to cover the rafters and sheathing with fire and bioprotection agents. Since water-based antiseptics are used (for internal structural elements), I categorically do not recommend using coloring preparations. Many developers have been burned by this. The fact is that time will pass between the installation of the rafters and the laying of the roofing material, and the very first rain will paint your log walls an antiseptic color, which, most likely, is not part of your plans.

The most delicate point in such a rafter system is the use of movable joints (“slides”) that fasten the rafters and the upper logs of the walls (the rafters are not fixed on the slats, but simply lie under their own weight). Similar connection V modern design It is a corner fixed to a log, and a guide ruler connected to the corner, which is attached to the rafters and allows them to move relative to the corner.

The correct installation of these elements is extremely important, otherwise the entire roof may “freeze”, which will lead to disastrous consequences. What you need to pay attention to:

the guide ruler should be attached parallel to the rafters;
a platform is usually prepared for a corner on a log; the corner itself must be strictly perpendicular to the ruler, and therefore to the rafters;
the corner should be located at the bottom of the ruler, allowing the rafters to slide down 7-8 cm;
The screws securing the corner should not penetrate into the rafters.

To solve the second issue - a beautiful and reliable connection of the attic ceiling with the wall, two approaches are possible. If you plan to lay the insulation immediately and form a roofing pie from the bottom up, then it is better to use the Norwegian method. At the same time, a cut is made in the walls and the attic ceiling cladding, vapor barrier, rafters, insulation between them are sequentially laid into it, then waterproofing on top, sheathing even higher and, finally, the selected roofing material.

If you decide to first build the roof itself, and later (for example, after the main shrinkage of the log house) to form the remaining part of the roofing pie (i.e. form it from top to bottom), then you should use German technology, which has become widespread in Russia. In this case, after installing the rafters, in all interior walls, parallel to the pediment, grooves are cut parallel to the lower edges of the rafters. The width of the groove is taken equal to the thickness of the material with which it is planned to sheathe the attic ceiling. The depth of the groove is usually 3-5 cm and depends on the thickness of the logs. This is a very labor-intensive procedure that requires highly qualified carpenters and quality tools. At first I was worried that the construction crew wouldn't be able to take it on, but they rose to the occasion.

Of course, builders can offer you less labor-intensive options: cutting the lining figuratively (bending around the logs) or placing decorative corners at the junction of the ceiling and gable walls. But that's not very healthy. Firstly, the lining also dries out and cracks will form in the future, secondly, as we remember, the roof together with the attic ceiling will move due to shrinkage of the log house and the figuredly cut lining can simply be torn off, thirdly, decorative corners look good on smooth walls, but on log ones, alas, not very much.

By the way, the builders solved another problem. To ensure unhindered sliding of the attic ceiling relatively easily, it was decided to raise the rafters above the ridge log and the slabs by the thickness of the lining. To do this, special planks were placed under the rafters on the ridge log and on the beams, the thickness corresponding to the thickness of the future ceiling cladding. At the lower point of support of the rafters - the logs of the walls - the depth of the groove was reduced by the same amount.

Advice
It is more reliable to entrust the selection and purchase of lumber and hardware to the construction company erecting the roof. She probably has well-established connections, which will ensure the required quality of rafters and sheathing at comparable prices. To deliver tiles to the roof, it is convenient to use a special chute, along which the tiles are carefully and safely lifted on a skid.

The remaining operations of constructing a rafter system and laying roofing material are more or less standard and have been described more than once in the literature. Let us note only a few points.

Trimming rafters and decorative design. Rafters are usually cut vertically, less often horizontally, or perpendicular to the rafter line. We chose the first option. Pediment and cornice overhangs are sheathed with pediment (frontal) and cornice boards, respectively. Given the significant thickness of the roofing pie (30-35 cm), several boards, usually 10 cm wide, are used, overlapping them. Using more wide boards undesirable because they are more susceptible to deformation. You can also use plastic panels.

Special attention attention should be paid to waterproofing the roof. After leveling the plane of the rafters, waterproofing material is laid on top of them. This can be either a vapor-permeable membrane (vapor permeability per day is 750 - 1000 g/m2) or a durable film. Experts advise using membranes. Despite the fact that membranes are 2-3 times more expensive, their vapor permeability is 200-300 times higher. In cost square meter Roof waterproofing costs are minimal. What does this give? Using a membrane, you can lay it directly on the insulation, creating a single-layer ventilation (between the tiles and the membrane), without worrying about the ventilation gap at the ridge, etc. If used plain film, then you need to create a two-layer ventilation, creating a mandatory gap of at least 2 cm between the thermal insulation and the film. If the film comes into contact with the thermal insulation, the resulting condensation will penetrate into the thermal insulation and sharply deteriorate its characteristics. The problem is that when laying the roofing pie from top to bottom, it will be difficult for you to estimate the size of this gap and there is a high probability of the thermal insulation film touching it.

Oddly enough, but laying the tiles must begin with the installation of elements of the drainage system, namely the brackets for fastening the gutters. In general, top and bottom fastening of these gutters is acceptable. In the first case, they are attached at the level of the sheathing, in the second - at the level of the rafters. Recommended for snowy regions top mount. When marking and bending the brackets, it is necessary to ensure that the gutter is tilted towards the drainpipe (at least 3 mm per 1 meter of gutter).

After installing the brackets, proceed to the actual laying of the tiles. Of course, before this, calculations must be made on the placement of the sheathing bars, onto which the tiles will hook.

Advice
Use special holders for the ridge and spine bars, this will increase the reliability of the structure and you won’t have to “reinvent the wheel.” The valley is one of the most complex elements of the roof. Therefore, do not skimp on high-quality aluminum valleys; they are not afraid of scratches and corrosion.
Roman Spiridonov, technical consultant at Braas

In general, I strongly recommend that you read the detailed instructions for creating roofing system. It is posted on our company website at . It describes in detail all the steps from calculating roof ventilation to installation decorative elements. These instructions will be of interest to you even if you use tiles from another manufacturer.

The installation supervision from the Braas company turned out to be very useful, which was especially nice; two visits by the specialist were free. This was quite enough to answer the questions that our builders had.

By the way, the company from Vyborg handled its work very conscientiously, quite challenging task. I was surprised to see specially prepared technological maps performing individual operations, supplemented by detailed drawings. As a result, the roof turned out to be very beautiful. Along the way, a number of other tasks requiring professionalism were solved - the outside of the frame was painted twice (for this it was necessary to build a whole system of additional scaffolding), the beams of the first floor were sawed and installed, the roof of the trailer was put in order, etc.

From my own experience, I will say that after two high-quality major works (foundation and roof) and a lot of useful advice, I no longer have any doubt who to entrust the further stages of building a house to. I wish you to find a company that will not only complete the assigned work, but will also become a valuable advisor in your difficult life as a developer.

Based on materials from the magazine Landowner of the North-West.
We express our gratitude to Marat Ismagilov

The main requirements for the roof of a house are reliability and tightness. A wooden house imposes additional restrictions on its structure, which are associated with the special behavior of the structure of the building. Constant seasonal movements of the frame necessitate the installation of a movable roofing system. For this purpose, special fastenings of rafter legs are used.

Features of roofing for a wooden house

In Rus', wood has always been considered the main building material. Princely mansions, churches, and houses of the common people were built from it. What is so attractive about this building material? There are several defining points here:

Thermal insulating properties. A 35 cm thick wood wall retains heat as well as brick thick 1.5 m.
Ecological cleanliness. Natural material does not emit any harmful substances into environment. Moreover, wood evaporates phytoncides that are beneficial to humans into the atmosphere.
Unique pattern of treated wooden surfaces.
High strength wooden buildings. It is not uncommon for buildings to withstand up to 100 years of use with periodic repairs.

Photo gallery: examples of design of wooden houses and their roofs

Log cabins last 100 years or more, requiring only regular maintenance and cosmetic repairs
Wooden houses convey the traditions of ancient architecture like no other
Modern roofing materials harmoniously combine with wooden buildings and provide them with reliable protection from environmental influences
Soft roofing looks elegant on wood timber house and does not create a large load on its frame and foundation

Specifics of wood structures

The peculiarities of wooden buildings lie in the properties of the material itself. The fact is that houses built from wood are unstable. They, albeit to a small extent, are able to change their size during operation, absorbing or releasing moisture depending on the time of year. Because of this, for example, modern metal fasteners (in particular, self-tapping screws) during construction wooden houses limited use. The porous structure of wood determines its low thermal conductivity. But it is also the reason for increased hygroscopicity compared to other materials, which is why seasonal deformations of the building occur.

Wood has a porous structure, which is the reason for the low thermal conductivity and high hygroscopicity of this building material

How does the rafter system of a wooden house work?

The roof of a house, regardless of the frame material, is its most important element, ensuring comfortable living and long service life. However, if for most structures the principle of the roofing system is the same, then for wooden buildings there are features that are unique to them.

Wooden houses can have different designs frame of the rafter system, but in any case it must be strong and reliable, capable of withstanding all the loads that arise

Types of rafter systems

Rafter systems can be:

Application of sliding rafters

As already noted, wooden building may be subject to deformation depending on operating conditions. In this case, in the case of a strong fastening of the rafter leg, pushing or contracting forces arise both on the walls and on the trusses. As a result, long-term alternating loads loosen the connections of building elements.

To avoid this phenomenon, sliding joints are installed at the attachment points of the rafter legs. The design of the metal fasteners allows the truss to move only in the longitudinal direction. It is securely held in a vertical plane by a bracket. This is not an idle remark, because with a hurricane wind, loads appear on the leeward side, directed upward and reaching a value of 630 kg/m 2.

It should be noted that lumber in a state of natural moisture can change its dimensions by up to 6–8%. Obviously, such movements can generate significant forces. Therefore, before installation, materials must be dried to a moisture content of about 18% (the so-called construction humidity). At this moisture content, the maximum change in size will occur within 2–3%.

Photo gallery: structural features of the rafter system of a wooden house

Sliding fastening is used only for rafter systems of wooden buildings
Sliding fastening compensates for seasonal deformations of the log house
The hinge on the rafters of a wooden house allows you to avoid stress in this part when the frame is deformed
Installation of additional fastening elements in the form of metal plates and brackets strengthens the rafter system

The rafter systems of wooden buildings are, in fact, “floating” and are held on the building frame only by their own weight. This is sufficient for normal weather conditions. In extreme weather, the retaining sliding mounts come into play.

The following materials are used for the manufacture of roofing system elements:

To construct a rafter system, in most cases, timber with a cross section of 50x150 mm is used. coniferous species. Traditionally, pine or spruce lumber is purchased, but for structural and strength characteristics it is better to use larch. It is more expensive, but this material is more durable and healthier.
For small buildings, a gable rafter system can be built from a 50x100 mm bar, slightly increasing the number of struts and racks.
An indispensable attribute of the rafter system is the sheathing. Its dimensions and installation pitch directly depend on the nature of the roofing finish. So, for small-format coverings (all types of tiles) you will need a continuous sheathing, for which 25x100 mm boards are often used, installed in increments of no more than 5 cm. Currently, instead of them, sheet materials are often laid - chipboards, DSP, OSB and others like that. The pitch of the sheathing from boards for corrugated sheets and metal tiles can be from 30 cm to one and a half meters, depending on the size of the finishing coating and the slope of the slope. Please note that it is undesirable to use a board wider than 120 mm - if it warps, it can deform the roof.
The counter-lattice for creating a ventilation cavity in the roofing pie is usually made from a 25x50, 40x50 or 50x50 mm bar.

All lumber used in the rafter system must be treated with antibacterial and fire-resistant impregnations.

Video: sliding rafter fastening

How to calculate and build a roofing system

Any serious construction requires the preliminary preparation of a work plan. It is needed primarily to calculate the amount of materials and the costs required for its installation. This statement fully applies to the roof structure.

The cost of making a roof depends on the task, which may differ depending on the nature of the use of the house:

Build a “cold” roof, designed only to protect the roof space and the entire house from the vicissitudes of the weather. It should be noted that heat loss through such a roof amounts to 25% of heating costs. In areas with long heating periods, this can amount to a significant amount.
Create an insulated roof that will avoid extra expenses for heating, so the savings on energy costs will quickly pay for all the costs of creating a roofing cake.
Arrange attic room in the under-roof space. This decision will be a logical step after insulating the roof. The costs here are considerable, but the gain in usable space and living comfort is obvious.

Of course, all of the above options need to be calculated in advance, because each of them will require materials, the weight of which must be taken into account at the foundation design stage.

Calculation of roof area

By calculating the roof area, you can determine the need for roofing material. In this case, there is no need to scrupulously calculate the area of smoke and ventilation pipes. It is enough to take into account the length of the slopes with overhangs of at least 40 centimeters on all sides of the roof, which are needed to protect the walls of the building from flowing water. The length of the slopes directly depends on the angle of inclination of their planes - the smaller the angle of convergence of the rafters, the greater the length of the slope. Having decided on the angle of inclination, the length of the slope can be calculated in two ways:

To determine the area of the slope, it is necessary to multiply its length by its width: S = L ∙ C, where C is the length of the ridge taking into account the overhangs, S is the area of the slope.

You can calculate the required amount of roofing material using the formula N = S / S el, where N - required amount elements of material, S el - useful area of one such element. The calculation of vapor and waterproofing films is carried out similarly (as S el, you need to take the area of the roll, taking into account overlaps) and insulation (here the value of S el will be equal to the area of one slab).

Calculation of the number and pitch of rafters

The traditional material for making rafter legs is timber with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. In addition to constant loads from the roofing pie, the rafters are also affected by variable loads from wind and snow. To take into account the permanent component, you need to immediately decide on the finishing coating material. Let's assume that this will be ceramic tiles, the weight of which is up to 40–42 kg/m2. It should be noted that the maximum permissible load the value is considered to be 50 kg/m2.

The pitch of the rafter legs is selected within the range of 60–150 cm. To calculate it, a certain sequence of actions is used, which we will consider using the example of a ridge with a length of 11 m:

We select the preliminary distance between the rafters. Let's say it's 65 cm.
We count the number of farms: N f = 1100 / 65 = 16.92. Since this number must be an integer, we round it to 17.
We calculate the actual distance between the axes of the rafters N f = 1100 / 17 = 64.7 (cm).

It should be remembered that this distance is not between the rafter legs, but between their axes.

The pitch between the rafters is selected depending on the roofing material

Determining the weight of the roofing cake

A modern roofing pie is formed from the following components:

Finishing roofing. The easiest - bulk or soft roll roofing or soft tiles, the heaviest are ceramic tiles.
Lathing for installing the finishing coating.
Counter grille that forms the necessary ventilation gap.
Waterproofing film or outer membrane.
The insulation is roll or slab.
Vapor barrier membrane.

For any of the listed materials, the weight per square meter is indicated as the main characteristic in the technical documentation.

Assuming that a continuous sheathing is made from a 25X100 mm board (one of the most common options), the figure used for calculation is 21.5 kg/m2. This value is valid for a material moisture content of 18%.

When using bitumen shingles, specific gravity which is about 3 kg/m2, as a result we obtain the value of the main load from the roofing pie, equal to the sum of 21.5 + 3 = 24.5 kg/m2. The weight of the remaining components of the roofing pie is insignificant and can be taken into account as part of the safety margin, which is usually taken equal to 20%. Thus, the value of the load from the roof can be taken as 24.5 ∙ 1.2 = 29.4 kg/m2.

Roofing pie composition for wooden roof depends on the type of finishing coating only in terms of the sheathing device

Video: roof installation - insulation, ventilation, board selection

Assembly and installation of rafter system trusses

The installation of the roof frame must be carried out in calm, dry weather. The first operation in this case should be the construction of a temporary platform according to ceiling beams to ensure the safety of work.

The order of operations is as follows:

During operation, each installed truss is fixed with temporary jibs to the adjacent rafter legs and to the mauerlat. After installing the last truss, it is necessary to lay the purlins and wind stops.

The lower ends of the trusses of a wooden house are secured using sliding stops. Wind stops are installed from the upper corner of the gable trusses to the crossbars of the neighboring ones.

The sliding fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat leaves them with little freedom of movement during seasonal deformations of the building

Video: simple installation of rafters for a gable metal roof

The next steps are:

Lay the waterproofing film over the surface of the rafter legs with a slight sag (2–4 cm) and secure it with a construction stapler.
The waterproofing film is laid on the rafter joists, secured with a stapler, and then finally fixed with counter-lattice bars
Stuff counter-lattice bars along the rafters, which are necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.
Install a sheathing for fastening the finishing covering from 25x100 mm boards. If the nature of the finishing coating (bitumen shingles, corrugated sheets or ondulin at small angles of inclination, etc.) requires a solid base, it can be laid from plywood, OSB or chipboard sheets. The sheathing material must be treated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant compound.
If the project includes a warm roof or attic, the roofing pie can be formed on top before installing the sheathing. However, it is easier to install insulation from the inside, since in this case you can quickly cover the roof with a coating and avoid the consequences of unexpected precipitation.
It is easier to insulate the roof from the inside after installing the roof covering
Lay the roof covering. Installation is carried out from below from any of the corners. The cornice line is maintained along a stretched cord. The installation of the covering is completed with the installation of skates.
Assemble and install drainage system and seal the overhangs. It is advisable to install soffits on them to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.
Soffits have perforations that provide ventilation of the under-roof space

Each element of the roofing system must be thought out and appropriate in the design. Therefore, upon completion of the project, you need to show it to a qualified specialist and take into account all his comments.

Choosing a roofing covering

Importance correct selection house coverings are difficult to overestimate. Several factors play a role here at the same time:

Local traditions. Historically, they are determined by the availability of materials in the construction region. In some places it is wood, and in others it is ceramic tiles or other coverings. A house covered with a material unusual for this area may not be in harmony with the overall picture of the landscape.
Compliance with the general exterior of the site, including the type of roofs of other buildings and even the color of the fence.
Financial opportunities. Sometimes you have to take this factor into account when selecting material based on the price-quality ratio.
Roof shape. On roofs of complex configurations, sheet materials are usually not used due to large quantity waste. In such cases, small-format coatings in the form of bitumen or ceramic tiles are used.

In short, a roof for a house is like a headdress for a person. Even an expensive and beautifully crafted top hat can look downright ridiculous these days.

What is taken into account when choosing roofing material

The possibilities for using this or that coating are currently very limited - the construction market offers many options. In this case, you need to be guided by the following considerations:

The force effect of the material on the rafter system. In addition to the weight of the roofing pie itself, the roof must withstand snow and wind loads.
Durability of the material. Re-roofing every few years is both troublesome and expensive.
The choice of material depends on the shape of the roof - not every coating is suitable for complex roofs.
Character of the structure. For a residential building, the determining factor is reliability and durability, and for a barn or summer kitchen- technological effectiveness and low cost.
Price. This indicator consists of the cost of the material and the cost of its installation.
Aesthetics - the roof should harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site.

The most commonly used roofing coverings

Sheet roofing coverings are the most technologically advanced and in most cases are used for roofs of simple shapes. Among them:

Metal tiles. These are profiled galvanized sheets with a protective coating of plastic or with paint coating. The relief of the sheets resembles a roof made of ceramic tiles. The material is universal; it can even be installed on top of an old roof. The limiting parameter is that the angle at the base of the slope should be more than 12–14 o. When installed correctly, the service life of such coating is at least 12 years. The average price of metal tiles is about 300 rubles per square meter.
You can create a beautiful and reliable roof from metal tiles, the main thing is that the slope angle is more than 14 degrees
Slate. It is a traditional and long-used roofing covering. It can be wavy or flat, painted in various colors or gray. Used on roofs with a slope of at least 12 o. The price per square meter is about 150 rubles. Release form - sheets measuring 1500x1000 mm.
Slate is often used on the roofs of residential buildings and outbuildings, but it requires a strong rafter system.
Ondulin. Is wavy sheet material from cellulose fibers, impregnated with polymer-bitumen compositions. Front side It is painted in a wide range of colors, so you can choose the material to suit any design of the site. Due to its properties, ondulin is usually used to cover auxiliary buildings. The sheets are installed over the sheathing or over the old covering. It is used on slopes from 6 o and can last up to 20 years. The advantages of ondulin include light weight and a wide selection of colors. Disadvantage - fading of the surface under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The cost per square meter is up to 250 rubles.
When using ondulin sheets of different colors, you can make original roof for a wooden house
Profiled sheeting. Corrugated sheets of galvanized steel, often with additional protection made of plastic or paint. Very easy to install. The disadvantages include low sound insulation, which, however, can be improved by installing additional layers of insulation, and not the most presentable appearance. The cost per square meter is up to 200 rubles.
Corrugated sheeting is a reliable roofing material that lasts a long time and is quite easy to install, but it does not look very presentable and makes a lot of noise when it rains.
Seam covering. Made from galvanized sheets, joined without the use of nails using special metal fastenings. Working with seam roofing requires the participation of highly qualified specialists. Such a roof is durable, reliable and does not allow water to pass through. Disadvantages include noise and high thermal conductivity. The cost per square meter reaches 300 rubles.
Most reliable roof- seam - made of sheet metal with a protective coating

Currently, piece roofing coverings are increasingly used, such as:

Ceramic tiles. It is made from a clay solution by molding and subsequent annealing at high temperature. The result is high-strength products with a service life of up to 150 years. This material is very durable, has low thermal conductivity, is not flammable, and has noise-proof properties. Besides, he is very handsome. Disadvantages include heavy weight and high cost- up to 1000 rubles per square meter. The rafter system for the tiles must be very powerful.
Natural tiles are an elite roofing material with long term service, but you need to build a very powerful rafter system for it
Cement-sand tiles are very similar to ceramic tiles in all respects, but are made from a solution without the use of annealing. It weighs about the same and looks about the same when adding the appropriate dyes to the solution. The price is also quite high - up to 600 rubles per square meter. Minimum angle the slope of the slope for both types of tiles is 20 o.
Cement-sand tiles look almost the same as ceramic tiles, but cost almost half as much
Slate tiles. This is a very popular roofing material in Europe, which today is used as an elite one. There are known buildings that are still functioning today and are over 200 years old. This coating can be used on any roof shape. The cost of the material is very high - from 200 rubles for one tile less than 40 centimeters in size.
Slate roofing looks prestigious and very beautiful, but is expensive
Composite tiles. It is made of steel sheet with zinc or aluminum-silicon coating, on the outer side of which a marble or basalt decorative layer in the form of crumbs is applied. This gives the coating a presentable appearance, and the small format individual elements allows it to be used on roofs of any shape. Manufacturers declare life cycle such a coating will last for 100 years, although it will not be possible to verify this statement soon, since the material began to be produced relatively recently. The cost per square meter of composite tiles ranges from 500 to 700 rubles.
Composite tiles are among the best modern materials for constructing an elite roof for a country house.
Soft bitumen tiles. These are small-format products made of fiberglass, coated on both sides with a polymer-bitumen composition. On the outside, basalt chips are applied to them, giving the coating an elegant look. This material covers roofs of any degree of complexity with a minimum slope of 12 o. Laid overlapping, the individual plates are sintered into a monolithic canvas, which guarantees high tightness of the roofing material. The installation technology is simple and does not require the use of special equipment. The material is laid on a continuous sheathing and has a lot of positive qualities, such as a minimum amount of waste, light weight, excellent heat and sound insulation, resistance to atmospheric influences, including acid rain, and immunity to fungi and bacteria. By decorative characteristics such tiles are not inferior to their ceramic counterparts. The disadvantages include the need to strictly comply with technological requirements during sintering, as well as difficulties when it is necessary to perform local repairs. The cost per square meter of a roof made of soft bitumen tiles is about 250 rubles.
After installation, soft tile shingles are sintered into a durable monolithic coating that lasts for several decades

Key parameters when choosing a roofing finish

Based on the above, the following conclusions can be drawn:

Pitched roofs can be covered with any of the above materials. The only differences are in the requirements for the angles of inclination of the slopes. An exception is bituminous shingles, which are installed on surfaces from 6 to 90 o.
The most expensive materials are ceramic and slate tiles. However, their cost is justified by their long service life. As they say, I did it and forgot it.
Coatings such as ondulin and galvanized corrugated sheets can be considered budget-friendly. They are most often used to cover the roofs of auxiliary buildings - garages or sheds.
For residential buildings The most suitable coverings are metal tiles or single-layer bitumen roofing.
Aesthetics is a subjective concept, but it can be argued that roofs made of any material except corrugated sheets and slate can be considered as such.
If you want to get a beautiful roof on an average budget, you can opt for bitumen or composite shingles.

Video: types of roofing materials

The design of a sliding rafter system is not associated with any structural difficulties. Methods for its installation and adaptation for this have long been developed and successfully used. Moreover, they do not depend on the material finishing coatings and the characteristics of the roofing pie - the rafter system works successfully with any of their types.