Primary caulking of a log house. What is the best way to caulk a log bathhouse: comparison of materials and work procedure

Wooden log houses They are characterized by plasticity and a tendency to undergo repeated changes in configuration and volume during the period of shrinkage and operation. The condition of the log house is also influenced by weather conditions, operating conditions, time of construction of the building and features of wood protection. In connection with this, the standards provide for primary as well as repeated caulking.

Features and reasons

Caulking is the process of sealing joints and cracks between logs in log house or a log structure. The main purpose of this process is to increase the thermal efficiency of the building. This is done by filling the gaps with special sealants.

Caulking can be done after all construction (including roofing) work has been completed, or during the process of assembling the walls.

Caulking allows you to solve a number of the following problems:

• insulation of the premises and (as a consequence) reduction in the cost of heating the building from the inside;
• elimination of gaps and cracks that appeared on the walls as a result of deformation and shrinkage of wood;
• preventing the formation of condensation on the walls as a result of differences between temperatures outside and inside the building;
• protection of wood from rotting.

The first caulking is carried out immediately after completion roofing works, the second - after the initial shrinkage of the building, after 6-12 months. After 3-5 years, re-caulking is carried out, since it is during this time period that complete shrinkage of the wood occurs.

Work must be carried out in the warm season. Winter is not suitable for this because the process will become even more labor-intensive, and the tree almost does not shrink during this period.

Houses and bathhouses must be insulated on both sides, outbuildings can only be compacted from the outside.

Materials

All materials for interventional insulation are divided into 2 categories. They are natural and artificial.

Natural

There are different natural materials, and they all have certain advantages. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Tow

It is one of the cheapest materials, which, unfortunately, cannot boast of efficiency. The thing is that tow absorbs moisture, as a result of which the heat loss of the building increases.

The material is based on flax fibers. Depending on their quality, the insulation can be bale or roll. The latter has short and stiff fibers, which makes styling difficult. Bale tow is softer and more elastic, and therefore easier to work with. The material is difficult to work with: it is not easy to insert it into the cracks or replace the damaged area. After insulation, the seam needs to be decorated, as it looks unaesthetic. They can start in the pack various microorganisms, mole.

Moss

It is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material for caulking, has antibacterial properties and high thermal insulation qualities. However, such material attracts the attention of birds, which pull out the insulation for their nests.

Usually red or white moss. When assembling yourself, it is better to do such work late autumn, immediately sorting through the raw materials after collection (you need to remove soil, litter, insects). Then the moss is dried, but not too much, otherwise it will become very fragile.

Felt

This material is made on the basis sheep wool, He for a long time was considered one of the best interventional insulation materials. It's all about its low thermal conductivity, combined with high vapor permeability, soundproofing qualities, environmental friendliness, and the ability to not allow moisture to pass through. Long elastic fibers are easy to fit even into small gaps.

Disadvantages include susceptibility to moths and rotting. Adding synthetic components to felt makes it possible to eliminate these disadvantages, but increases the cost of an already expensive material.

Lnovatin

Material based on recycled flax fibers, characterized by high performance qualities and non-hygroscopicity. It provides a favorable microclimate in the room, because when the humidity level increases, it absorbs excess moisture, and when it decreases, it releases it. In addition, this feature allows you to protect the wood from rotting.

Thanks to its composition, the material is absolutely safe.

Jute

The material is made from wood fibers exotic wood– jute. Due to the high content of resins in the material, it literally repels water and also provides antibacterial protection not only for inter-crown gaps, but also for adjacent logs. However, the high resin content is also a disadvantage. Under their influence, the material quickly becomes hard and dries out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. This phenomenon can be avoided by mixing jute with flax wool.

Artificial

Among materials of artificial origin, several options also stand out:

• Insulation materials based on polyester fiber. They are characterized by biostability, non-hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Available in tape form. Among the most famous manufacturers We can highlight “PolyTerm” (Finland) and “Avaterm” (Russia).

• PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape). A material with low thermal conductivity, the peculiarity of which is the ability to shrink and expand following deformations and changes in the geometry of the wood.

• Sealants. Sealants based on silicone, polyurethane or acrylic base are also used for caulking log houses, but they are not independent seals. Their purpose is to seal cracks directly in logs, as well as to apply artificial sealants over them. Distinctive feature is the ability of sealants to expand and contract in accordance with the expansion or contraction of wood.

Requirements

The main requirement for insulation for inter-crown seams is a low thermal conductivity coefficient. In addition, the material must be moisture resistant, since no other waterproofing or vapor-permeable layers are provided for caulking. Since the insulation is in contact with environment, it must be resistant to winds, high and low temperatures and their sudden changes, as well as UV rays.

If we are talking about insulating the inside of a log house, then you should choose environmentally friendly seals. They must be non-toxic and not release hazardous compounds when exposed to high temperatures.

The biostability of a material is also an important quality associated with its durability. It is good if the seal does not attract birds, insects, or become home and food for rodents and microorganisms.

Considering the labor intensity and high cost, it can be noted that this material should be characterized by durability. The thermal efficiency of the seal should be maintained for 15-20 years.

As already mentioned, there may be several options for insulation. If we talk about the methods of laying the sealant, it can be laid during the construction of the log house or after the completion of construction work.

At internal insulation Thermal insulation of inter-crown gaps can be combined with the organization of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated frame. In this case, after the first and repeated sealing of the inter-crown seams, it is packed onto the surface of the log house. wooden sheathing, the pitch of which should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Then, insulation is attached between the frame joists, and sheets of plasterboard are placed on top of it. An air gap of 30-50 mm is maintained between the insulation and the finishing. Drywall sheets are plastered and decorated.

Before attaching the sheathing, the surface of the log house is covered with an antiseptic. Similar actions are performed in relation to the surfaces of the joists.

Choice

The specific insulation technique depends on the type of structure and climatic conditions. It is believed that a new, properly constructed log house only needs inter-crown insulation. Additional thermal insulation from the inside will disrupt the microclimate in the room and hide the aesthetic log walls. The baths do not need to be insulated from the inside, since the additional layer of insulation will get wet, which will lead to freezing of the wall.

Primary caulking and sealing of small cracks are carried out using the “stretching” method, while repeated insulation or elimination of wide cracks is carried out using the “pull-in” method.

Tools

To carry out the procedure for insulating inter-crown seams, the following materials and tools will be required:

• caulking– a tool that looks like a chisel, with which you can insulate gaps of various widths (from 2 to 10 cm);
• breaking caulk– is a thick narrow wedge for expanding excessively narrow gaps, allowing them to be filled more easily and with better quality;
• flat chisel, having a blade 50-60 mm wide, up to 5 mm thick - used for laying the seal in the corners and rounded parts of the log house;

• mallet– is a hammer made of wood, used to hammer in the seal;
• road worker– a type of caulk for forming even rolls from twisted heat insulator;
• hammer– they hit the mallet with it, driving the sealant into the inter-crown space;
• insulation.

A power tool or hammer drill is inferior to the described tools, since they do not allow the formation of a dense roller of material, but only drive it into the gap.

Methods and technology

There are two technologies for the caulking process:

• “Stretched.” Typically used for primary sealing of seams and involves maximum stretching of the material along the entire length of the frame. First, the first strand of insulation is laid, and on top of it - a twisted second strand. The insulation fibers are perpendicular to the direction of the logs, and the ends are rolled into a flat roller, which is driven inside the seam.

• "Recruiting." The method is used for re-caulking when the house has shrunk. This method involves hammering large quantity insulation, a strand of which is formed into a loop. Then, using a mallet or caulk, it is hammered into the crack, and the insulation fibers take a position perpendicular to the wood.

The process ends with final compaction. For this purpose it is used special tool- road worker.

If you decide to caulk a house or bathhouse with your own hands, you should follow the instructions. The step-by-step process looks like this:

• Cleaning the inter-crown gap from dust and debris. It is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner for this.
• Insulation preparation: roll material should be spread over the entire length of the log house, with a small (about 20 cm) margin. It is necessary because in some areas the material can lie in waves, but it should be enough for one tier.
• One of the ends of the insulation tape is driven into the gap using a mallet.
• Then the material is hammered into the gap with a mallet and caulk. It is important to ensure that the seam is sealed and there are no distortions.
• If synthetic insulation was used, a sealant is applied over it.

When the insulation is laid during the process of assembling logs, it must be placed immediately on the first row, leaving the ends of the material hanging over on both sides. Then a second crown is placed, and insulation is placed on top of it. This is how work continues until the last log house. When all the work is completed and the roof is installed, the hanging ends of the seal are driven into the gaps using caulk. It is necessary to correctly collect the hanging ends towards the center of the crown.

When laying insulation (primarily this concerns moss), it is important to ensure that it lies evenly over the surface of the logs. It is unacceptable for them to show through the insulation, otherwise log house will turn out to be cold. If tape insulation is used, it is rolled out along the crown and secured with staples. If the tape runs out, then the next roll begins to overlap (about 5 cm) to prevent the formation of gaps.

Even if all stages of construction wooden structure done professionally, this does not guarantee that there will be no drafts in the house. Firstly, the used workpieces (beams, logs), characterized by a large length, cannot be adjusted to one another with pinpoint precision. Secondly, wood is constantly in the process of deformation (under the influence of moisture, temperature, and also due to natural shrinkage).

Even inter-crown insulation cannot eliminate the problem of emerging cracks and gaps; only caulking, as a way of additional thermal insulation of the log house. It is quite doable with your own hands if you know how to do it and what you may need during the work.

Caulking is not a one-time event. For the first time, it is carried out either immediately after the completion of construction, or in parallel with the construction of the log house. Secondary - on next year or after 2 - 3, depending on local specifics (climate in the region; location of the building on the territory; its protection from the winds; grade of wood used, which determines the intensity of its shrinkage and a number of other factors). The third time - after the final removal of moisture from the material. As a rule, 5 years are allotted for this. But this does not exclude the need for unplanned caulking, as cracks form in certain areas.

Any material that can be used to seal the gap is not suitable for these purposes. Its choice is determined by the following criteria:

• optimal combination of elasticity and density;
• low thermal conductivity;
• non-susceptibility to destruction by microorganisms;
• hygroscopicity, approximately identical to this indicator of wood. That is, the caulking material must be characterized by the ability to equally absorb moisture and release it;
• "ecological cleanliness";
• resistance to external negative factors. That is, the caulk should not be deformed, much less destroyed under the influence of the atmosphere (changes in humidity, temperature, and their limit values).

When insulating a log house, you must adhere to a certain scheme. Caulking is done in levels along the perimeter of the building. It starts with lower crown, and only after high-quality sealing of the 1st row spacing should you begin processing the 2nd. Failure to follow this recommendation leads to the fact that under certain conditions there is a risk of the log frame warping.

The specifics of caulking of timber and log buildings are somewhat different. The picture explains this well.

Caulking is always carried out before any work on finishing (cladding) the building begins. When insulating, the material is forced into the gaps with force, which leads to the “lifting” of the entire frame. In total terms for one-story house- approximately 10 cm.

Cannot be used when caulking different materials. The reason is differences in hygroscopicity, which determines the degree of deformation when absorbing liquid. It is also not recommended to caulk only on one or two sides. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to distortion of the structure.

If this happens, it is not critical. You can correct the distortion with additional caulk. The main thing is to correctly determine the area where secondary installation of insulation will eliminate this defect.

There are quite a lot of them. You don’t need to be an expert in the field of construction to understand that natural materials are the best.

Moss

It practically has only advantages. You don’t have to purchase it, but assemble and prepare it yourself, although this option is not available to everyone. “Ecological cleanliness” is a priori beyond doubt. Another significant advantage is that moss has antibacterial properties. Consequently, in places where cracks are sealed, it provides high-quality protection of lumber from fungi and mold. Experts note only one drawback - high cost purchased moss.

Tow

It’s the opposite – the cost is low, but it’s difficult to work with this material, and it’s not particularly durable. Firstly, tow is fibrous in structure, and therefore absorbs moisture very actively. And she gradually moves onto the tree. This, in turn, complicates the removal of rotted insulation from the gaps, especially if the compaction was done to a great depth (which is typical for log cabins). Another disadvantage is that moths are very fond of tow, which gradually spreads throughout the house. And the quality of thermal insulation quickly decreases when the layer is damaged.

Lnovatin

Enough the new kind insulation. It is a tape obtained by pressing crushed flax. The material is good (heat-saving indicators are high, does not absorb moisture and is not subject to rotting), but is only suitable for sealing large cracks.

Jute

The main characteristics are identical to flax wool. The advantage is the variety of assortment. Jute is produced in ribbons or cords, so this material can be considered universal. High price- This is the only drawback of the product.

Sealing compounds

Categorized into three groups, but general characteristics- ease of insulation of the log house. The use of these heat insulators does not require professional skills; In addition, the time savings are quite noticeable.

Paste in tubes. It is easy to match the color of the wood, so when filling small gaps it is the best option caulking. If necessary, this place is varnished.

Briquettes. Their use requires a special gun. Convenience in the variety of attachments, which allows you to process cracks both large and relatively small.

Cords, harnesses made of polyethylene foam. They are pressed into the gap using special devices. It is advisable to use for sealing long gaps.

Tools

Since caulking is carried out on various areas, differing in the parameters of the slots, and therefore in the complexity of the operations, for such work it is advisable to use a set (set) of devices. It will not be possible to insulate a log house with just one. The tool will not be needed only if soft (paste-like) sealants are used.

A correctly selected tool will not only optimize work in various areas, but also expand (if necessary) the gap and insulate a log site with complex geometry. Therefore, you should not limit yourself to only the devices shown in the figures.

Basic caulking technologies

Stretch

Usually, this method implemented in areas characterized by a large extent. Accordingly, the material is selected - cords, tapes, harnesses. The meaning of the operation is to uniformly push the insulation into the gap with a gradual displacement work surface tool sideways. The peculiarity is that a small part of the material remains outside the frame. On last stage the excess is tucked in (that is, a kind of roller is formed) and forcefully driven into the gap. This ensures its complete sealing.

Included in the set

This technology is suitable for large gaps, since in this case a narrow tape (cord) cannot provide high-quality insulation. Or in difficult areas, when the width of the gap changes many times. The material is disassembled into individual strands; they are twisted (into balls, loops) and driven into the gap. The work is more painstaking, requiring time and accuracy.

Sometimes the edges interventional insulation several protrude from the frame. Experienced craftsmen do exactly this during the installation of the structure, taking into account its subsequent shrinkage. In this case, all that remains is to tuck in the excess and push it into the gap.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about caulking a log house. You just need to correctly assess the specifics of the work, the parameters of the cracks and choose the right material and the optimal method of thermal insulation.

To get rid of the gaps between the crowns and close the cracks formed during the shrinkage of the log house, apply caulk: this is the only way to retain heat inside the log house. For work you can use various materials, but the technology is the same. How to caulk a log house correctly? What's best to use for this?

What is the best way to caulk a log house? The work can be done using both natural and artificial materials. The latter are much more convenient to use, and the process takes very little time, but they have several significant disadvantages.

Natural

These include moss, tow, jute, flax wool, hemp and others.

Moss

Caulking a log house with moss has been done for a long time, and even with the advent of modern materials they did not refuse him. This explains his unique properties: it not only retains heat well, tolerates sudden temperature changes, removes excess moisture without rotting, but also has antimicrobial and even medicinal properties.

Tow

The technology using tow is considered one of the most complex. As the log house dries out, the material will become damp, which is why it will begin to rot over time. Therefore, after drying the house or bathhouse old tow cleaned and then caulked the log house again.

Jute

Moisture resistant, environmentally friendly and durable material, excellent heat retention. Due to its ability to absorb moisture, it has a fairly short service life (about 3 years). Jute that has become unusable is not easy to remove from the cracks between the crowns, so it is rarely used.

There are several types of material:

1. Jute tow. When producing this type of insulation, the fibers are combed to give them the right direction. The tow obtained in this way retains all the properties of jute, however ready material not very convenient for work: rigid, and at the same time not too dense. The process of caulking when using the material becomes more complicated - the work has to be carried out in several stages (during the initial laying, the required degree of density cannot be achieved).
2. Flax-jute. A mixed material consisting of equal amounts of flax and jute fibers. It is popular among builders, but needs protection from insects: before use it is treated with anti-moth and anti-rot agents.
3. Jute felt. The material, 90% jute and the remaining 10% flax fiber, has the density necessary for work, but at the same time remains flexible. The ease of use of felt makes it optimal choice. When purchasing a material, you should choose one whose fibers are longer than 2 cm - it is more elastic and flexible. The only drawback is that it can be damaged by moths, so before laying the felt, it is treated with a special protective impregnation.

Lnovatin

Insect repellent material is processed chemicals, therefore it cannot be called environmentally friendly. The service life of the insulation is up to 3 years; it is attached to the frame using construction stapler.

Synthetic

Application ready-made compositions– sealants – will cost significantly more than if you caulk a log house with tow. However, they are much easier to work with. Usually, in order to reduce the consumption of a synthetic product, it is used together with a natural one (for example, a cord). First, the cord is sealed into the gap, and sealant is applied on top, leveling the layer with a scalpel spatula.

Among the disadvantages of sealants:

1. A number of synthetic products are destroyed by exposure sun rays– over time it begins to crumble and falls out. To protect the substance from damage, strips are installed on the seams, which protect the sealant from ultraviolet radiation.
2. Some compositions, after drying, harden into a dense solid mass, due to which the wood, which contracts and expands depending on humidity and air temperature, begins to collapse. It is recommended to use only flexible sealants.

Methods for caulking the walls of a house or bathhouse

Caulking and insulation of a log house can be done using two methods:

1. Into the set. Suitable for wide crevices. For work, use jute, tow or hemp. The selected material is divided into strands and wound into a ball.
2. Stretch. Wherein thermal insulation material divided into strips and hammered into the cracks.

General rules

The initial caulking of a timber house is carried out approximately 6 months after assembly. During this period, most of the moisture contained in the timber will disappear, cracks will appear on the wood, and cracks will appear in the structure itself.

The next time the work will need to be carried out another year. By this point, the structure will have completely settled, and it will be necessary to eliminate the cracks and crevices that have arisen over the past months.

If everything is done correctly, the third time will be needed only after 5 years. However, if technology is not followed, the need to eliminate cracks may arise annually. To ensure that the caulking of a timber house is done correctly, it is worth watching a video with advice from experienced craftsmen.

1. Work starts from the bottom. Sequentially caulk the lower crown around the entire perimeter from the outside, then inside the log house. After that, they move on to the next one, acting in the same way.
2. Typically, the largest cracks form at the corners, so caulk in these places should be especially careful.
3. First, the material is fixed in the crack over an area of ​​about 1 m, then the hanging parts are folded in and tucked inside. Using a mallet, the insulation is firmly hammered into the gap until the material begins to spring back. When everything is done, move on to the next section.

Caulk with moss

To work you will need:

• pre-dried moss;
• water;
• soap;
• vegetable oil.

Work order:

1. Add 200 g of soap and 0.5 liters of oil to a bucket of water. Mix thoroughly.
2. Place dry moss in the prepared liquid. Wet fibers will become elastic.
3. Take a strand of material, twist it into a roller, and insert it into the slot. They compact well.
4. Using a spatula and mallet, firmly hammer the insulation into the gap.

For the initial caulking of a log house using moss, it is recommended to use the “stretch” method, all subsequent ones – the “set” method.

Using tow

Over time, insects may infest this type of insulation, and in order to protect it, the tow should be treated with a disinfectant.

You need to prepare:

• tow;
• formalin (it will act as an antiseptic);
• water.

Caulking a house made of profiled timber using tow takes place in 4 stages:

1. Formalin is diluted with water to obtain a disinfectant solution.
2. All the prepared tow is placed in it and left for half an hour.
3. Having taken out and squeezed out the material, they drive in the tow, divided into strips, using the “stretch” method. The insulation is compacted using a spatula and a mallet to achieve maximum packing density.

Caulk with jute

This material is laid using the “set” method.

Depending on what type of material is chosen, you will need:

• the jute itself;
• bitumen or resin (for felt jute);
• formalin (for jute tow).

Work order:

1. The tow is soaked in a formaldehyde solution.
2. The material is rolled into strands and filled into the cracks of the lower crown.
3. Using a tool, push in the hanging edges.
4. Using a groove, level the position of the insulation layer.

Important! When processing the area around the chimney pipe, you need to leave about 3 cm of the surface untouched.

Caulking with sealant

Caulk timber house using sealant is the fastest way. To work you will need yourself synthetic material, a cord for filling cracks, a special spatula for smoothing seams (you can take a narrow spatula), a mounting gun.

Log houses made of rounded logs are in great demand. These building materials retain heat well in the room, have a pleasant appearance, and are environmentally friendly, created from natural material - wood. Thanks to the perfectly even shape of rounded logs, many believe that there is no need to worry about insulating a house made from them. In fact, this is not so, because it is impossible to lay the crowns on top of each other so that there are no gaps between them. Even if they are minor gaps, they will appear; later, after the house shrinks, they will become even larger, and heat will escape through them. It is necessary to insulate cracks using insulating materials immediately during construction and afterwards using caulk.

The process of caulking is the driving of insulating material into the inter-crown cracks. This must be done several times:

• immediately after construction;
• a year or 1.5 after the house shrinks;
• 5 years after construction.

For houses made of rounded logs, one caulk, made after the log shrinkage, is sufficient. This process well insulates the seams between the logs, prevents the penetration of cold into the room, the ingress of moisture and freezing of the roof joints. The main thing is to properly insulate the house and use only high-quality insulation materials.

Materials for caulking

Materials for insulation wooden houses by means of caulking has many. All of them can be divided into two main types:

1. Artificial insulation. Made from mineral, synthetic components.
2. Natural interventional insulation. They are made from natural materials, plant fibers.

TO artificial materials relate:

1. Mineral wool, glass wool and other fibrous mineral wool insulation. They are environmentally friendly, but can still lead to the development of allergic reactions in residents. They provide good insulation and prevent rodents from growing in them. But these insulation materials are not hygroscopic and even to be afraid of moisture, it worsens their basic characteristics.
2. Foamed polyethylene and other closed-cell insulation materials. Materials made from it insulate the inter-crown seam well. They keep the cold out and keep the heat out. But at the same time they don't breathe. They can be compared with plastic bag, creating Greenhouse effect in the crown joint, this can lead to damage to the wooden material and its rotting.
3. Foam rubber and other open-cell insulation materials. These insulation materials are not able to protect the crown joint from freezing. Despite the fact that air and moisture are able to penetrate into the small pores of the material, under the weight of the upper crowns of the log house they are compressed, and the result is a non-breathable, homogeneous mass of insulation.

Many artificial insulation materials cope well with their thermal insulation tasks. But it is advisable to use them for structures built from bricks, concrete, cinder blocks and other minerals building materials. These insulation materials are not suitable for wood; they will shorten its service life, worsening its strength characteristics.

Natural interventional insulation materials include:

1. Moss. This is the most best insulation. It was used for caulking hundreds of years ago. It does an excellent job of insulating a home. It has good hygroscopicity, capable of absorbing moisture more than 20 times the volume own size. The structure of moss fibers contains lignin, which prevents rotting and damage to the insulating material and the logs themselves. It has bactericidal properties and will destroy bacteria in the air in the room.
2. Jute. Its properties resemble moss, but it is easier to work with. The density of jute is good and does not allow heat or cold to pass through. This material breathes and is hygroscopic. Appearance Also different, jute has a golden color similar to the shade of wood. In interventional seams it looks beautiful and aesthetically pleasing.
3. Linen. It's more cheap material, but its properties are worse. He is afraid of constant contact with moisture, which can lead to rotting. Hue of this material is grey. The density is not great, linen feels softer to the touch. It is advisable to use this insulating material for insulating houses built from dry wood; it is perfect for laminated veneer lumber.
4. Lnovatin. Good insulation made from jute and flax. These two materials together create excellent insulation, which includes their positive traits. Flax wool is resistant to external influences, with good density and the ability to restore its size. If the wooden material dries out, this insulation fills all the voids in the inter-crown space of the rounded log.

The caulking process is not easy. It’s better not to do it alone. The insulation material must begin to be hammered in from the lower inter-crown seams and gradually rise higher. Caulking needs to be done around the entire perimeter of the house at once, and not to first completely insulate one wall and then move on to another, otherwise the walls may squint or even slide off the fastening element, for example, a dowel.

For caulking wooden house It is best to use natural materials from rounded logs. They complement the wooden material, improving rather than degrading its characteristics. If you have experience working with insulating materials not available, and caulking can’t be handled, can be used alternative method insulation – sealing.

Sealing of inter-crown seams

Sealing seams is easier and faster than caulking using sealants. It is easier to work with them than with insulating inter-crown materials. Neomid's sealed formulations have proven themselves well: Word Professional and Word Professional plus. These products are very similar to each other, but only the second sealant is more elastic and can be applied to surfaces with a large angle of inclination. Otherwise they are no different.

Neomid sealants have good adhesion and adhere perfectly to wooden material and excellent elasticity. Sealed compounds are applied using a construction gun. The sealed seam is not afraid of weathering, moisture, does not turn yellow under the influence of sunlight, and mold does not form on it.

Putting up a log house from a log or timber is not the whole task. It is also necessary to properly caulk this log house: to seal the gaps between the crowns and the cracks that form when the wood dries out. This is done so that the log house of the bathhouse loses as little heat as possible. The quality of the log house's assembly is determined by how the crowns are laid. It is important not only to cut out the bowls and grooves correctly, but also to lay inter-crown insulation between two rows of logs or beams.

The insulation is installed during the assembly stage of the log house

What it will be - moss, tow or jute - is up to you, but such a layer must be present. When building a log house, you need to lay insulation in two layers:

• on the lower crown so that the edges of the insulation protrude beyond the edges of the bowl by 3-5 cm, the width of the insulation, in general, is taken 5-10 cm more than the width of the bowl;
• Insulation is also placed in the bowl of the upper crown; its edges protrude beyond the bowl by 3-5 cm.

Please note that when using moss or tow, there is no need to “tap” the material. When tapped with a hammer or an ax butt, the moss fibers break and dents form on the wood, which are directed across the fibers. Such damage can lead, in the future, to the development of foci of rotting. It is enough to simply compact the fibers with the palm of your hand, leveling and probing the layer; if you come across large foreign objects (cones or sticks are often found in moss), simply remove them.

Laying moss when assembling a log house

When using tape insulation, you can fix it using a construction stapler - damage to the wood from the staples is minimal, and the material is held securely. It is advisable for two people to lay the “insulated” crowns so that they can take the log from both ends and lower it so as not to move the insulation.

• 1 How to caulk a log bathhouse
  • 1.1 Moss
  • 1.2 Jute
  • 1.3 Tow
• 2 When to caulk a bathhouse
• 3 How much tow do you need for a bathhouse?
• 4 Rules for caulking

How to caulk a log bathhouse

All materials for caulking can be divided into two main categories: natural (tow, hemp, moss, jute, etc.) and industrial sealants. Sealants are applied faster and easier to work with. Usually, to reduce the consumption of sealant, a cord is placed in the gap between the rims, and only then a sealant is applied on top of it, which, when wet, is leveled with a special spatula.

When caulking, it is not appropriate to have a spatula-scalpel at hand. The working part of the tool is made of hardened carbon steel

Synthetic sealants have a number of disadvantages:

• some of them do not tolerate exposure to ultraviolet radiation - when irradiated, they lose their properties, crumble and are blown away by the winds. The problem is solved by strengthening strips that will cover the seams from ultraviolet radiation;
• Some sealants for log houses, when dry, form a monolith, which, when the wood expands/contracts (depending on weather conditions) interferes with the process and contributes to the destruction of adjacent wood fibers. For this reason, it makes sense to use flexible sealants.

Elastic joint sealant for wood from EUROTEX

The video shows how to use Eurotex sealant.

As shown in the video above, you can use a regular tablespoon as a tool to level and remove excess sealant.

If you decide to use one of the sealants, carefully read the instructions and description, make sure that it is compatible with the type of wood from which the log house is built and can be used in your region ( temperature regime) and has necessary qualities.

The use of sealant is justified in the case when it is used to seal caulked cracks: after caulking the log house twice with tow, moss or jute, wait for the log house to completely shrink and acquire operational dimensions, after which a cord is laid in the seams, and then the sealant is applied.

Natural materials for caulking also have their advantages and disadvantages, in addition, each of them requires certain preparation.

The most proven material for caulking a bathhouse is moss. It has been used for centuries. Today, many other materials have appeared, but they have not surpassed moss in terms of characteristics. It is more convenient to work with new materials (especially tape materials). This is undeniable, but the qualities of moss remained unattainable for them. Chief among them is the ability to resist bacteria and high resistance to rotting.

Not aesthetically pleasing, but practical

The moss is first dried and then wetted again before use. This restores elasticity to the stems. The soaked moss is laid out in an even layer so that its ends hang down on both sides of the log/beam. After completing the collection of the log too long stems the moss is trimmed, everything else is tucked in and tucked into the cracks of the log house - the initial caulking of the log house is performed. This is followed, after six months and after a year and a half, by repeated caulking.

Increasingly in construction wooden baths and jute is used in houses. And not just jute fibers, but rolled material. Jute fiber has good characteristics: it has good heat-insulating properties, due to the large amount of lignin - a natural resin that serves as a binding element - it is practically not subject to rotting and has low hygroscopicity. Even with high humidity, the jute remains dry to the touch.

Jute insulation can be of several types:

Tow - waste that is generated during primary processing natural fibers. For caulking log houses, tow made from jute, hemp and flax is used. The characteristics of the material and its quality depend on the source raw materials, the degree of purification of the fibers and their length. Construction tow is pressed into square blocks. For use when caulking log houses made of common block a strip of material is pulled out, twisted into a rope and placed into the seam. Combed tow, which is sold in rolls, is more convenient to use.

Tow for a bath

It is inconvenient to work with such material: it is difficult to achieve a uniform layer when used as inter-crown insulation, and for caulking a log house, tow is excessively rigid, which is why it is almost impossible to achieve a dense filling of the seam the first time and you have to periodically re-caulk it. If the choice is between moss and jute tow, then we can definitely say that moss is better for a bath - it has the ability to inhibit the development of putrefactive bacteria and fungi.

When to caulk a bathhouse

The log house is assembled, when is the first time you can caulk a fresh log bathhouse? If the log house was assembled with moss or tow, then remnants of material stick out between the crowns different lengths. In this case, you can perform the initial caulking immediately: trim the overly long fibers, tuck them inward and tuck them into the seams. There is no need to be zealous about this. This is preliminary work, the purpose of which is to remove fibers. But this must be done following the rules of caulking. If the log house is assembled on tape insulation, nothing needs to be done.

Bath after initial caulking

The first “serious” caulking is carried out approximately six months after the collection of the log house. During this time, the logs/beams will lose most of their excess moisture, new cracks will appear, the crowns and corners will basically “sit” in place. At this time, the first caulking is carried out. After this process, you can install doors/windows.

A second caulk will be needed about a year after the first. A year and a half has passed since the construction of the log house, the log house has become stable. Now all seams and cracks are checked, all defects are eliminated. Depending on the material and quality of work, it may be necessary, in another five years, to caulk the seams again. But there have been cases (usually this is the result of the work of “shabashniks”) when caulking errors are corrected for several years in a row. Most often, this need arises if the log house was built without inter-crown insulation.

How much tow do you need for a bath?

Any natural material for caulking, it is compressed many times during installation and a large amount of it can fit into a log house, even with good interventional insulation. No one can say exactly how much tow is needed for a bathhouse: it also depends on what material the log house is assembled from and how the grooves are cut out in the logs. At manual chopping grooves usually go away more material. Also, a sanded log requires more material compared to a rounded one. Less is required for a log house, but even here the amount of tow or moss that will be used to seal the cracks depends on the accuracy of the geometry of the beam and the depth/number of cracks that appear during drying.

Caulking rules

Caulking a log house is not a very difficult task, but it is long and tedious. Everything needs to be done thoroughly and slowly, so it takes a lot of time - it took 10 days to caulk a small 5*4 bathhouse (one worked for 7-8 hours).

The main thing is not to overdo it in the efforts made when hammering in the insulation, which can lead to the log house rising by 15 cm or more.

Rules for caulking a log house:

• You need to start from the bottom crown, moving along the entire perimeter, first from the outside of the building, then caulk the same crown from the inside. And only after that start processing the next crown.
• When caulking, pay attention Special attention at the corners - this is where the most significant gaps are often found.
• During primary caulking, you first need to pick up the hanging material, bend it down and tuck it into the gap. The tool should be used as needed. Perform this operation on a section about a meter long, then move on to the next section.
• In the same area, use caulk and a wooden mallet (sometimes a hammer is used, but the mallet does not knock off your hands so much) to compact the material. You need to hit the caulk until the material begins to spring back. Then move on to the next section.
• After compaction, a gap formed. A piece of insulation is again placed in it. If it is tow, you need to roll it into a rope required thickness or tear off a piece of the required length from the tape. This piece is also hammered with caulk and a mallet until a springy effect appears. Repeat this operation until the gap is completely filled and move on to the next section.

Like every business, caulking requires certain skills. Since there will be more than one such procedure, you will eventually gain skills. As you gain experience, you will notice the mistakes that you made at the beginning of your activity - this will be your chance to eliminate them. Actually, it is not the gods who burn the pots, but it is possible to caulk a log house more or less efficiently even if you have no experience.

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