Ceramic tile continues to be one of the most popular floor coverings despite its emergence in this area large quantity fashionable new products. It has established itself as a practical and easy-to-care material, quite durable and very aesthetically pleasing to the interior. The difficulty of laying tile flooring can be called relative. This work can easily be done independently, but a person without experience will need a consultant and assistant at first. Only perfect styling will be able to improve the room and ensure the durability and reliability of the repairs made. One of the conditions that must be met when installing a ceramic coating is careful preparation of the floor for the tiles. Otherwise, all the efforts made may result, after some time, in a violation of the stability of the tile surface, the appearance of cracks and the loss of individual fragments of the tile.
Types of rough coating
Laying tiles can be done on almost any type of subfloor.
The only exception is carpet. Its soft fleecy surface cannot serve as a good base for a floor under tiles. All other materials, even fairly soft linoleum and vinyl, can be used for this purpose. The old ceramic coating is suitable for use if it is sufficiently reliable and stable. Even a cracked surface will not be a hindrance if all the tiles are firmly in place. The only thing you need to do is run a grinder over the glossy surface to make it less smooth. Nevertheless, the ideal base for tiles will still be concrete floors. A hard and durable surface will significantly increase the service life of the laid tiles. In relation to them, it will also be necessary to carry out preliminary preparation, but after its implementation confidence in good quality laying tile floors will increase significantly.
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Laying tiles on a concrete surface
Laying scheme on a cement-sand screed.
A concrete surface that has not previously served as a base for a floor covering will most likely not require much effort or complex preparatory work. The only thing you need to do is to carefully examine it, paying attention Special attention joints between slabs and places where they adjoin the wall. Wide gaps will have to be eliminated using cement-sand mortar. The same will need to be done with the pits, and the bumps will need to be leveled to the surface grinder. The biggest problem may be the horizontal deviation of the floor level. These values are not as strict as when laying laminate or parquet boards, but when laying tiles on an uneven base, it will not be possible to achieve perfect joining even when using a thick layer of adhesive. Taking into account the fact that the tiles that will subsequently be laid are not the cheapest building material, it would be unreasonable to save money and effort when preparing the base, but it would be better to apply a cement screed to level the horizontal level.
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Carrying out a cement screed
Many types of ready-made self-leveling mixtures have appeared on sale, but their prices are not affordable. The not-so-complicated procedure of mixing cement, sand and water yourself can save a significant amount of money. Best proportion for this connection it is obtained at the rate of 1 part cement to 3 parts sand. Concrete base pre-clean with a coarse metal brush, exposing coarse-grained inclusions. This will help the solution to better adhere to the base. Then beacons are placed along the perimeter of the floor, serving as guidelines for determining the level of the poured mixture.
To insulate walls from moisture cement mortar they are protected from below with damper tape or strips of roofing material 10-15 cm wide. This also serves to compensate thermal expansion concrete when installing heated floors. Before pouring the solution, the surface is thoroughly moistened with water. A screed thickness of 5 cm will provide good strength, but you should not increase its height, remembering that the concrete mass has considerable weight. The installed beacons are removed after the screed has partially dried and the resulting voids are filled with solution. For heated floors, it is necessary to lay the type of underlay that is more suitable for the selected system and the climatic conditions of the room.
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Laying tiles on a wooden surface
Installation of tile covering on wooden base is possible only if it maintains its integrity and does not rot. Weight ceramic tiles, further increased by the adhesive composition, can lead to deformation wooden floor, its cracking and destruction. Plank floors that, upon examination, appear unsuitable to withstand heavy loads, are best dismantled. It is more advisable to get rid of a rotten subfloor, which will no longer be helped by any surface preparation. If wooden boards They have reliable strength; it is enough to make sure that they are well attached to the joists and that there are no too wide gaps between them.
Loose floorboards are secured with self-tapping screws or dowel nails, and the gaps between the boards are puttied, having previously been reinforced with thin wood chips. Preparing a floor made of chipboard or plywood is carried out in the same way. Using a waterproofing underlay when laying tiles on wooden surface Necessarily. Wood has the ability to absorb moisture well and change size with temperature changes, and insulation of the subfloor will protect tile covering from instability.
When laying laminate flooring, the floor surface on which the material will be laid plays an important role. In this article we will look at everything related to floor preparation and the choice of substrates.
Why is floor preparation necessary?
This question interests many people who have undertaken to renovate their apartment. Everyone wants the process to take as little time as possible.
Laminate, like parquet boards, is a rather fancy material. In terms of service life and maintenance, high-quality laminated flooring is quite competitive with tiles.
The whimsicality lies precisely in the base on which the laminate is laid. All kinds of tubercles, pits and cracks in the screed can negatively affect appearance laminate flooring, also during its service life. Therefore, floor preparation is a very important stage.
The most worst enemies laminate pits and bumps. From the load when walking on a laminated floor covering in places where the floor is dimpled, stress is transferred to the joints of the strips. After which the joints are damaged by these loads, which leads to the appearance of bulges and cracks at the joints.
Important! Another equally worst enemy is high humidity. Moisture can enter not only from above, but from under the screed. To avoid damage to the floor covering, cracks in the cement screed are carefully sealed and a backing is laid under the laminate.
In the entire construction process, preparing the floor for laying laminate flooring rightfully occupies the most important stage. If you do not approach this process with full responsibility, then you will soon have uneven surfaces, creaky floors and a lack of sound insulation.
Where to begin
First you need to stock up necessary tool and materials so that you don’t have to be distracted from work in the future.
Preparation of tools. Unlike the construction of walls and finishing of the facade, all power tools are not required before laying the laminate, which makes the task much easier.
- Jigsaw - useful for cutting plywood.
- Construction level - this device is necessary for marking surfaces. In order to achieve minimal error, it is recommended to use laser level. Its errors are much smaller than usual.
- A drill with a mixer attachment is its function to stir the solution. You can, of course, do this by hand, but it will take much longer and does not guarantee that there will be no lumps.
- The rule is that it is advisable to use the longest possible one, this will allow you to cover more surfaces at a time.
- A spatula is the same rule, but in a smaller size.
- Needle roller - used only for self-leveling floors.
You will also need a hammer and a screwdriver; after the floor is prepared for laying the laminate, you cannot avoid installation work, but for now the above tool will suffice.
Construction material
You need to decide what will be used as a substrate:
- Cement screed - used for concrete surfaces. Required materials: sealant, plaster, dry building mixture.
- Wood flooring - For relatively flat floors, plywood is usually used. Used in cases of parquet flooring, also when laminate is built on top of linoleum.
Advice! Laminate flooring can be installed on any surface except carpet.
Choosing a subfloor for the flooring
In addition to the selection above building materials, you need to choose a substrate for the laminate, a lot will depend on this choice.
Important! Only compliance with all advice and instructions can guarantee high-quality and solid foundation for laying laminate flooring.
Products made from polyethylene foam
- Protects laminate flooring from moisture
- Additionally equipped with a layer of foil, which eliminates the need to buy polyethylene rolls for covering floors.
- Rotting, mold and fungi formation are excluded.
- Easy installation
- The price is significantly different from the others.
Advice! To avoid destruction of the floor covering, it is not recommended to lay two layers from a distance, since strong tension may form at the junction points.
- Environmentally friendly, natural laminate.
- Keeps you warm
- Durable, will last a long time
Advice! Under cork backing It is necessary to lay plastic film as the material does not like moisture.
Bitumen-cork gasket
The base of the substrate is kraft paper coated with bitumen. Moisture-resistant material, but slightly higher in price compared to analogues.
Product made from pine needles
Natural material retains heat and does not sag during prolonged use. The disadvantages of such a substrate are that they are manufactured exclusively to order and are highly price category.
Once you have decided on the material, it's time to start working.
- First, let's rid the floor of extra items and garbage.
- Afterwards, mix the floor screed in the prepared container.
- Along the perimeter of the room on the walls we mark the required floor level.
- Using a level, we transfer the marks to the beacons, attached to the floor over the entire area of the room, obtaining a surface where the upper edge of the beacon is the boundary of the screed, to which the substrate and laminate will later be added.
Mix the solution according to the instructions indicated on the manufacturer's packaging. If it is missing, you can use this “recipe”: 1 kg. cement mixture dilute 3 kg. sand and no more than half a liter of water per 1 kg. the resulting solution.
If more water was added than should be added, 100-200 grams should be added. cement. It is not recommended to overfill liquid solution. It is necessary to leave a distance between the beacons less than a meter.
The screed is poured in 3-4 stages: using timber you need to divide the room into several sections. Avoid drafts until the solution is completely dry to shorten the hardening time. At the end of this process you should get a flat surface, allowable error 1-2mm. per 1 sq. meter. This is called a “perfectly flat floor.”
This method Used only for concrete floors. Preparing a wooden floor for laminate occurs differently.
Wood coverings
First, you should stretch the floorboards to avoid squeaks. Replace worn rotten boards and cover them with sheets of plywood.
Cut the plywood into small tiles and lay them at intervals of 5-10 mm. each other. This is necessary so that when the floor deforms and moves, the ends of the sheets do not rub against the adjacent ones.
If a deeper screed is needed, or the floors are too uneven, plywood or chipboard should be laid in two layers. This option will be more reliable, although the costs will increase slightly.
The second layer should be laid so that the joints upper layers did not overlap with the joints of the lower ones.
This floor leveling method is suitable for parquet boards, linoleum and wooden flooring.
Self-leveling is a modern method of leveling floors.
This leveling method is used in cases where special precision is required in preparing the floor for laying laminate flooring. Or the floor does not need a cement screed.
The differences between the self-leveling floor are its extraordinary strength, durability, environmental Safety and water-repellent properties. It is enough to fill the floor with a solution of 2-3 cm, and you will get a smooth, beautiful floor that will last a very long time.
- First you need to make a solution, which will subsequently split on the floor.
- Preparation will take only 10-15 minutes. and you can immediately start pouring the floor. Before cooking, be sure to read the instructions on the package.
- Pour the solution onto the floor near the wall opposite front door and carefully spread the mixture over the entire floor.
Advice! To level the entire surface at one time, use a special spiked sole for crampon shoes.
If there are no professional “cats”, you can try to make them yourself from scrap materials. If you don't use a studded sole, you may end up wasting time trying to smooth out boot marks.
Then begin rolling the solution using a special needle roller until the entire floor becomes smooth and “mirror-like.”
At this point the floor for laminate is prepared.
However, it should be noted that points that may not in the best possible way influence the result of the work.
- Features of work related to surface preparation.
- The most important thing is to maintain the room temperature for 3-4 hours.
- The laminate should be laid 2-3 days after the screed has completely dried.
- It is necessary to protect the drying solution from any objects, as well as from sunlight.
Conclusion.
Now you know the technology and secrets of floor preparation, which will help you save on the construction crew. The result obtained will justify the time and money spent. With the money saved, you can purchase a better quality substrate.
If from the above, something remains unclear, you can watch a video that clearly shows all the stages of work in detail.
A floor made by yourself will undoubtedly please you more than one made by builders, because it is also a reason to be proud.
Preparing the floor for screed is a mandatory step that precedes the most difficult stage in leveling the base - pouring cement-sand mortar. The quality of the screed, its characteristics, and its durability largely depend on how the preparation is carried out. Therefore, you should not neglect this point. How to properly prepare the base of the floor before pouring the screed and what is included in this procedure will be discussed in this article.
Preparing the floor for screeding is the most important step on the way to ideal floor
Sealing cracks and cleaning the base
The very first thing you need to do is evaluate the quality of the foundation. If it looks like a “solid four”, that is, it has minor defects in the form of small potholes, holes, tubercles, then you can safely move on to next stage- cleaning and cleaning the floor from debris and dust. But if the “four” is far from being achieved, and “three” is not an option, then you will have to start restoring the floor.
Most often it is necessary to seal the gaps between the floor slabs. To do this, you can use the same solution that you will pour on the base as a screed. Everything here is quite simple, since no special skills are needed: pour the solution into the cracks, level it with a spatula and let it dry. Don’t try to make the “patches” perfect, there’s no point, because the screed will still be poured on top of them.
Cracks and crevices can be sealed with ordinary cement-sand mortar.
After all major defects have been eliminated, you can start cleaning the base from debris and dust. If you suddenly find smooth shiny bald spots under a layer of cement dust, you will have to pick up a metal brush or grinding machine to clean them. Such “spots”, if, of course, they are left untouched, can cause the screed to peel off, which will ultimately lead to its deformation.
When everything is cleaned and put away, you need to “go through” all the joints and corners with a vacuum cleaner to finally get rid of any remaining dust.
Base primer
As a primer, you can use special factory solutions for highly absorbent surfaces (concrete is one such surface). However, you should avoid products whose instructions say that the screed can be poured directly onto a wet primer. Better not take risks!
The base needs to be primed twice, with the second layer applied only after the first has completely dried. It is advisable not to use a roller, as it is not able to “penetrate” small irregularities, but a wide brush will do the job perfectly.
The primer improves the adhesion of the screed to the base
Bonding damper tape
To isolate the screed from the walls, it is necessary to use a damper tape, which performs three functions at once:
- Waterproofing joints and corners
- Wall insulation
- Compensation for temperature changes in the screed.
Simply put, insulation tape prevents the water contained in the screed from seeping into the lower floors and cracking the screed as it dries.
Damper tape can be bought at any hardware store, but other options are also possible, for example, you can make it from scrap materials. Ruberoid, polyethylene film, waterproofing - perfect for isolating screeds from walls and joints.
It is very easy to stick the finished damper tape on the walls: remove protective layer and press the tape with adhesive to the wall. The tape is joined with an overlap, and in the corners it needs to be cut only from below, in the place where it will come into contact with the floor.
Installation of a damper tape is required when leveling the floor using the “wet” screed method
If you decide to make a damper tape from scrap materials, then cut waterproofing material into strips approximately 30-50 cm wide and lay them around the perimeter of the room with an approach to the wall (the height of the approach should be slightly greater than the height of the future screed). After this, using liquid nails stick the tape to the wall. At the junction of two pieces, make an overlap of at least 15 cm.
After the screed has completely dried, trim the edges of the tape protruding from the outside with a sharp knife.
Floor marking
In order to measure the existing floor in a room (apartment) and apply markings to the walls, it is necessary to draw horizontal line, which, according to all the rules, should eventually close, and the maximum permissible displacement in this case is allowed in the amount of 1-2 mm. The so-called “horizon line” should be located at a height of approximately 1 meter from the floor level (less is possible).
To draw a line, you can use a laser or water level, as well as a spirit level. The latter is recommended if you will be pouring screed in one room and not in the entire apartment.
Marking the floor with a laser level - fast and the right way mark all the points necessary for screeding
The easiest way to apply a “horizon line” is with a laser level. To do this, place it in the center of the room and point it at one of the walls. Having made marks at the corners, turn the level towards next wall. This way they mark the entire room. If it is necessary to mark an apartment, then after this procedure is completed in one room, the beam is directed into the doorway to obtain its projection on the wall of the corridor or next room. Then the laser level is moved to the center of the next room and the manipulations are repeated.
Using a laser level you can quickly mark all the rooms in the apartment at once
Definition of zero level
When the “horizon line” is drawn on all the walls, you need to determine the zero level of the floor. To do this, use a ruler or tape measure to measure the distances from the line to the floor. The smallest of them will be the zero level. Well, then everything is elementary: from the point zero level set aside a segment upward equal to the thickness of the future screed. We measure the distance from this point to the “horizon line” and transfer this measurement to all the walls of the room or apartment.
Installation of beacons
At this stage, many people have problems, since it is not so easy to set the beacons correctly. However, there is a way that will significantly reduce the time of this procedure.
To set up beacons you will need screws and metal profiles. Take one self-tapping screw and screw it near one of the corners to a height just below the level of the tie. After this, install any strip (metal or wood) on it with its end and mark on it the point of intersection with the “horizon line” that you marked on the wall earlier.
Tighten the next screw at the other corner and repeat all the same manipulations as with the first screw. Having installed the staff on it, make sure that the point marked on it coincides with the “horizon line”. If there is a deviation up or down, then simply tighten the screw to the required level.
By marking the entire floor in this way, you will get an ideal base for installing beacons.
Installation of beacons under screed on cement mounds
Beacons must be secured to the floor somehow. To do this, you need to pour a pile of mortar onto each screw and then place the beacon on these piles, pressing it tightly against the screws. After removing the excess solution, you need to let the beacons dry and properly fix on the base.
All! The floor is ready for screeding.
As always, before starting work it would be a good idea to refer to the basic standard SNiP 3.04.01-87/SP 71.13330.2011 “Insulating and finishing coatings" The surface of the concrete floor must meet the basic requirements of this document and be:
Modern adhesives are mixtures of cement, mineral fillers and modifying additives. Therefore, leveling the floor is allowed tile adhesive in the presence of irregularities up to 5 mm.
It would be useful to remind you that before starting all work you need to read the instructions for using dry building mixtures for tiles and porcelain stoneware. This will help avoid many mistakes during the installation process.
We also note that this article discusses preparing the floor for laying tiles in the kitchen, bathroom, hallway or any other room. When installing a shower in a bathroom, the technology becomes more complicated due to:
Leveling the floor under tiles: methods and features
Any floor finishing must be installed on a level, dry and solid foundation. But rare concrete surface meets these requirements. Therefore they apply various ways leveling the floor under the tiles with your own hands:
- Tile adhesive (ready-made dry mixtures);
- Self-leveling (leveling) compounds;
- Cement-sand composition (screed).
Each of the above methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at them.
Tile adhesive
From a professional point of view, it is better to use specialized products - levelers, thin-layer finishing compositions. But since in adhesive composition all necessary components are available (cement, quartz sand, plasticizers), it is indeed allowed to be used for smoothing floors for laying tiles. But there are several nuances here.
- If the floor is almost level and you need thin layer, then you need to mix the glue with a large amount of water until the consistency of liquid sour cream is obtained;
- Preparing the floor for laying with differences of 5-10 mm is carried out with a thicker mixture, optimally in 2 passes. That is, the first time a preparatory layer with a thickness of 3-6 mm is poured and stretched, and the second time a finishing layer, no more than 4 mm.
Secondly, many craftsmen prefer to use cheap mixtures for leveling, and then directly when working with tiles or porcelain stoneware use expensive, professional compositions with a high degree of adhesion and plasticity. In addition, they already contain special water-repellent additives, thanks to which preliminary waterproofing not required. This is true for kitchens, balconies, hallways and other similar rooms.
Third, there are no clear instructions. Each master develops for himself own algorithm work, but the principle is the same: cleaning, priming and applying a leveling mixture. The discrepancy is only in proportions, and most importantly - in timing. Cement needs at least 28 days to fully mature and gain strength, but the percentage of its content is adhesive mixtures- less than half of the total mass. In addition, the composition contains a variety of plasticizers, including hardening accelerators, increasing workability, etc. Therefore, it is worth focusing on such an indicator as the period after which full load on the ceramic flooring is allowed. As a rule, when internal works this period is from 5 to 7 days.
The technology is simple:
Self-leveling compounds
An incredibly convenient development that allows you to smooth the surface of the base with a layer from 2 mm to 10 cm is leveling compounds. They are divided into basic levelers (coarse-grained), universal and finishing (fine-grained thin-layer). Let us immediately note that all three types are suitable for our purposes (depending on the thickness of the layer). To form durable coating It is better to use cement or cement-gypsum compositions.
The advantages of bulk compositions are speed and ease of working with them. It is allowed to lay ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, artificial or natural stone already 3-5 days after pouring. Pick up suitable composition needed based on:
- Areas of application (indoor or outdoor);
- Method of use (manual or machine);
- Layer thickness.
The installation of a self-leveling floor must be carried out strictly in accordance with the instructions. The surface is cleaned of dirt and old coatings, weak areas are removed and filled repair mixtures. Next, a primer is applied in 2-3 layers with mandatory drying for 12-24 hours.
Along the perimeter of the room, the level of the new floor is marked on the walls or point beacons are installed. When forming a layer with a cross-section of more than 1 cm, it is advisable to use a damper tape.
The solution is mixed in the proportion indicated on the label, poured onto the surface and distributed with a spatula or squeegee. The coating is rolled with a needle roller for deaeration and compaction. The leveled base will be ready for further work in just a few days.
Screed
Cement-sand mixture is a universal and inexpensive means of leveling any type of base. Due to the high binder content, the surface is very hard, practically does not deform and can withstand significant loads. But the drying time and strength gain is too long - up to 28 days. Because of this, preference is often given to self-leveling compounds or tile adhesive.
For leveling the floor with a layer of more than 3 cm, a full-fledged screed is ideal. You can purchase a ready-made packaged mixture or form it yourself in the approximate proportions: 1 part cement, 3-5 parts sand and water in an amount sufficient to obtain a thick solution (approximately 20% of the volume). You can add screenings, crushed stone, reinforcing fiber, expanded clay, and crushed slag to the composition. That is, everything that will give the screed additional properties: strength, thermal insulation, etc.
Beacons are installed on the floor. These can be reference products, metal profiles fixed with mortar, or even just nails screwed into the base at the required level. Ready composition applied to the surface and distributed as a rule. After pouring, experts recommend covering the floor with film and periodically moistening it so that the cement matures evenly and gains strength. After 14-28 days (depending on thickness), the screed is ready for laying tiles or porcelain stoneware.
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Laminate is frequent choice those who want to renovate their floors. And this is not surprising, since the laminated coating looks beautiful, is durable, and does not create difficulties in operation and installation. Except for one “but”: laminate categorically does not like being laid on an uneven surface.
The height differences for this coating cannot be more than 2 mm per 2 meters of floor, and the slope cannot be more than 4 mm for the same surface length. Otherwise, under constant load, the laminate will begin to take the shape of an uneven base, and this will lead to the destruction of locks, creaking, and even breakage of coating elements.
In addition to the smoothness of the floor, laminate is also demanding on humidity, so the coating underneath must be reliably protected from water vapor. And the last requirement is the cleanliness of the base. Dust, sand and crumbs of various origins will cause unpleasant sounds: crunching, creaking, and will also lead to abrasion of the substrate.
Therefore, before laying the laminate flooring, it is necessary to prepare the floor. It is believed that it can be laid on any surface, as long as it is hard and smooth. In principle, this does not contradict the truth, but you still need to check the base, otherwise it will be very disappointing when in a few years the wooden floor rots, the linoleum cracks, the tiles begin to peel off, and the old screed cracks.
The dangers of an uneven surface and lack of checking the foundation are clear. Now the most important thing is how to evaluate the quality of the surface and how to correct the critical situation. Floors in houses can be concrete or wood, and each of these coverings requires special measures.
First you need to remove existing coverage: remove linoleum, disassemble parquet. If old concrete screed does not fall apart, then it can be left, repaired if necessary, but if it has cracked, then it will have to be removed.
Roughness measurement
Deviations from the horizontal can be measured with a long rule or ruler. The tool must be placed on the floor. If it does not touch the surface tightly, it is worth measuring the existing gap.
The slope is calculated with a laser level and ruler.
If bumps and holes create differences of more than 2 mm per 2 meters, and the slope is more than 4 mm, then the floor needs.
Video - Laser level
There are several ways to level a concrete floor, and each of them will depend on the initial condition of the coating, as well as the wishes of the person who started the repair. Leveling begins with preparing the concrete base.
It involves removing significant protrusions and cracks. Large bumps must be knocked down, and the cracks must be primed and sealed with mortar. Then remove all debris from the floor, preferably with a vacuum cleaner, or even better - wet cleaning. This will help get rid of any sand and dust particles that will prevent the leveling coating from adhering to the base. Be sure to waterproof the joints of the slabs and the gaps between the wall and the floor.
It doesn't hurt to level the walls along the baseboard, as they are usually just as far from being perfectly smooth as the floors. It will be very unsightly when a gap forms between the wall and the baseboard.
After preparatory work finished, you can proceed directly to leveling. If the slope and height difference are no more than 3 cm, then the floor can be leveled using a leveling solution.
It's pretty convenient way bring relatively flat floors to perfect condition. The method is fast and does not require special construction skills.
What will you need?
- Buy a mixture, and at the same time a primer for the floor.
- Apply primer to the repaired and clean floor. It is designed to improve adhesion and reduce the ability of concrete to absorb moisture.
- Apply damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
- Prepare the solution according to the instructions. It is better not to stir the mixture by hand: firstly, the result will be worse than when stirring with a drill, and secondly, it will take longer. One bucket is not enough for the whole room, so before the first portion has set, you need to have time to dilute and pour the next one onto the floor.
- Pour the finished solution into the far corner of the room and, so that it spreads quickly, spread it with a spatula in the direction of the exit, and then roll it with a needle roller. This will get rid of air bubbles. Then quickly, without allowing the mixture to set, pour in the second portion and especially carefully use a roller to work the junction of two different batches. There is no need to level anything - the liquid will spill out on its own.
- The solution will dry quickly enough, but exact time when it can be exposed maximum loads, it is better to check on the packaging.
Video - Leveling the floor
In the case where the height difference turns out to be more than 3 cm, you will have to abandon the use of the leveling solution. The developer has three options to choose from: laying a classic cement-sand screed, dry screed or building up the floor on joists.
This method allows you to get a durable monolithic floor, but is only suitable for medium height differences. If maximum thickness the future screed will be more than 10 cm, its weight will create a significant load on the floors, so you will have to resort to other methods of leveling.
You can make a cement-sand screed with your own hands, but it will require, if not construction experience, then at least effort. By the way, it takes quite a long time to dry - this is its main drawback. In order to level the floor with your own hands, you will need to carry out a number of activities.
Video - Cement-sand screed
- Prepare the floor: clean, lay waterproofing and stick damper tape.
- Find the zero level - the place where the horizontal plane of the future coating intersects with the walls. To do this, you need to add to the highest point of the floor minimum thickness screeds. For cement-sand it is 3 cm, although it is also possible to use ready-made mixtures with other parameters. The resulting value will be the height of the screed.
- In accordance with the zero level found and marked on the walls install beacons. Usually this metallic profile, laid on piles of mortar so that its tops coincide with the zero plane. The distance between such guides should be slightly less than the width of the rule so that it rests on the beacons when leveling the solution.
- Prepare the solution.
- Place the solution on the floor and level it with a long rule.
- Dry the finished screed. It is covered with film or moistened with water for two weeks to prevent uneven drying, and then left for another two weeks for final drying. After three days, when you can already walk on the screed, you need to remove the beacons and level the grooves from them.
Suitable when the height difference is more than 10 cm. This is usually due to large slope, And cement strainer in this case, it will create not only a heavy load, but also an uneven one. In addition, dry screed is good when there is no time to wait for drying.
- Preparing the floor as in the previous case.
- Searching for the zero level and placing beacons. Any material can be used as a substrate.
- Filling with filler. Most often this is expanded clay, but it can also be perlite, polystyrene foam or quartz sand.
- The filler must be compacted, leveled along the beacons and sheets placed on top rough coating, for example, GVL. This material is usually laid in two layers, with overlapping seams. As the covering is laid, the beacons are removed. The covering sheets are attached to each other, and a flat floor is obtained, ready for further work.
Another “dry” method. It is also capable of leveling the most hopeless floors without weighing down the ceiling, but significantly raises the floor. This needs to be taken into account in case such alignment prevents the doors from opening or the heating radiator will have to be lifted.
Video - Leveling the floor with extensions
The characteristics of a wooden floor determine how it can be leveled. There are also several of them, which gives you the opportunity to choose, but each is preceded by preparation.
First you need to inspect the floor, evaluate its quality and repair it if necessary. Creaking and sagging boards should be replaced, and protruding nail heads and screws should be recessed into the surface. Then check for slopes and holes.
The most common methods of leveling a wooden floor are scraping, pouring a self-leveling mixture for a wooden floor, filling with a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue, and leveling with plywood.
Most often, this method is used to level the coating before varnishing, but the result obtained allows you to obtain a surface suitable for laminate. Before scraping, you need to recess the heads of the screws by at least 5 mm so as not to damage the machine knives.
Such products allow you to level out even significant unevenness. The filling layer reaches 2 cm, and if necessary, several layers can be poured.
- Removing paint or varnish remaining on the floorboards, sealing cracks and holes. For this purpose, you can use a thickly diluted filling composition.
- Primer with a moisture-proof mixture.
- Zero level mark.
- Seal the gaps between the floor and the wall with polystyrene foam.
- Waterproofing flooring with overlap on the walls.
- Preparing the mixture.
- Distributing the mixture over the floor, rolling with a needle roller.
- Dry the layer, apply a second one if necessary.
This method is cheap and allows you to level the floors even in large rooms. You can buy this composition ready-made, or you can make it yourself from moistened sawdust and glue. The downside is the need to wait a long time for drying, especially when several layers are needed.
Now big choice such substrates, and can be chosen to suit any whim: thicker, with a foil layer, from natural materials. Everyone has their pros and cons.
For example, polyethylene foam is affordable, protects the laminate well from moisture, is not susceptible to mold, but sag over time.
Bitumen-cork are made of reinforced paper impregnated with bitumen and cork crumbs. They protect well from moisture, are durable, retain heat, but are quite expensive.
Cork substrates are environmentally friendly, durable, do not deteriorate, but are afraid of moisture, so you need to additionally lay a film under them.
So, preparing the floor surface for laying laminate first of all comes down to leveling. There are quite a few ways to do this. Each of them has its pros and cons, but all can be done with your own hands. Therefore, a beautiful laminate floor is a dream that you can fulfill yourself.