Schlumbergera or water-loving cactus. How to care for Schlumbergera (Decembrist)

In our country. To most of them he is better known as the Decembrist. Schlumberger's flower is a beautifully flowering plant that does not require complex care. It received its name in honor of the French florist, big fan and collector of cacti, Frederick Schlumberger. Another name for the flower is zygocactus. It is translated from Greek as “yoke”. The stems of the flower actually bend in the shape of a rocker.

Description of the flower

Despite the fact that this plant belongs to the genus, it is not from the hot and arid desert. Under natural conditions, the Schlumbergera flower grows in the humid forests of Brazil and South America. These flowers live on the trunks and roots of trees growing in mountainous areas. Hummingbirds pollinate flowers under these conditions.

Flower growers often call it Christmas or Decembrist. It is no coincidence that the plant received these names. This amazing flower blooms around Christmas. However, zygocacti are so unpredictable that they can expel numerous buds in the spring and even in mid-summer. But most often, flower growers manage to make Decembrist bloom in winter.

The indoor Schlumberger flower is epiphytic. Each stem of this beautiful plant is flattened, jointed, branched, and flower buds appear at their ends. They have a somewhat pendulous shape and can be painted in different colors.

Breeders are constantly working to improve this plant and new hybrids appear every year. Over time, the Decembrist may experience suberization of the trunks. To prevent the Schlumberger flower from being one-sided, it must be periodically turned towards the light source.

Varieties

Today, three types of Decembrist are most often used in indoor floriculture:

• Gertner;
• truncated;
• Booklets.

The first variety is a rather large plant with numerous leaf-like segments, up to seven centimeters long. It blooms beautifully with a scattering of bright red-orange flowers in the shape of bells, which have petals pointed at the edges.

The next variety has stems consisting of leaf-like segments with sharp teeth on the edges. The flowers are symmetrical, the central tube is slightly oblique, and the petals are curled back. The colors of the flowers are varied: soft pink and white, purple and lilac.

The third grade stems consist of small light green segments that have small projections at the edges. Symmetrical flowers of lilac-pink color.

Decorative properties

Schlumberger flowers, which are easy to care for even for beginners, due to their attractive appearance, fit organically into any interior. They look best in a hanging pot, because if you don’t have such an opportunity, the Decembrist can be installed on an inverted pot.

The soil

The soil mixture is prepared from leaf, turf soil and sand. Acidity must be neutral or slightly acidic. Add a little powdered charcoal to the prepared mixture (activated tablets are also suitable). Drainage (pebbles, expanded clay) is placed at the bottom of the pot. The container for planting should be low and wide: the diameter should be greater than the height of the pot. Decembrists grow well and look impressive in original wicker baskets.

Crown formation

For a thicker and more lush crown home flower Schlumbergera is pinched and trimmed. It is better to shorten branches that do not branch. Due to the fact that buds appear more often on new young shoots, frequent pruning is quite justified, as it promotes rapid and abundant flowering.

Lighting

Schlumberger flowers, which are surprisingly easy to care for, love light areas of the room that are protected from direct sunlight. In summer, the flower must be protected from the heat, which it does not tolerate well. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the fresh air. However, it must be remembered that direct sunlight can harm the plant: the leaves turn yellow and the growth of the flower stops.

The plant feels quite comfortable on northern, western or eastern windows. And in winter, the Decembrist can be moved to the windowsill of the south window. But this must be done before flowering, otherwise the Decembrist may drop the buds.

Temperature

The Decembrist is quite tolerant of temperature changes and environmental conditions. The plant survives at temperatures from +2 to + 7 °C. But you should not abuse this feature. In order for the Schlumberger flower to delight you with its beauty, home care must certainly include monitoring the air temperature in the room. The optimal thermometer readings will be in the range from +18 to +25 °C.

Bloom

When the Schlumberger flower blooms, a photo of which you can see in this article, the gray winter days seem to brighten. Bright delicate flowers, like multi-stage fountains, flow in cascades along the stems. And if you plant several plants in a pot, and even with multi-colored flowers, it seems as if a magnificent fireworks display has burst out on the windowsill. New Year's holidays with such decorations become more colorful, brighter, and more joyful.

The Schlumbergera flower forms buds only when the temperature drops and daylight hours shorten. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account that in spring and summer, as well as during heating season, when the temperature in the apartment is from +20 to +23 °C, the plant grows foliage. In such conditions, buds either do not form at all or immediately fall off.

What is necessary for a Schlumberger flower to bloom, and how to care for it? First of all, it is necessary to maintain the room temperature not exceeding +20 °C.

Watering

Despite the fact that Schlumberger's flowers are called cacti, the care and propagation of these exotics is not much different from other equally popular indoor plants. Water the flower with warm, settled water, since cold water can damage the root system. In this case, watering should be moderate - the Decembrist does not tolerate overdrying or waterlogging of the soil. In both cases, this is fraught with the death of the root system, and then the entire plant.

After the buds appear, you must carefully ensure that the soil in the pot is always moderately moist. During the period from late April to mid-September, when the plant is actively growing, the root system requires moisture only when the top layer of soil dries.

From the second half of September, watering is reduced and the plant is moved to a cool room. In the heat, the Schlumbergera cactus evaporates from the leaves a large number of moisture, so it should be sprayed with soft water. From time to time it is necessary for the Decembrist to arrange warm shower.

Top dressing

In order for the Schlumberger flower to grow well and delight with lush flowering for a long time, do not forget about regular feeding. From February to October, organic and mineral fertilizers for cacti are usually added to the soil, which can be purchased at a specialty store. During the formation of buds, the flower is watered with nutritional compounds for flowering plants.

Rest period

For active development and lush growth, a period of rest is necessary. After flowering ends before the growing season begins, the flower must be placed in a cool place and watering reduced to a minimum.

Reproduction

If you decide to propagate your beautiful flower, you need to do this at the end of April or beginning of May using cuttings from stems consisting of two or three segments. Carefully unscrew the cuttings from the mother plant and dry them for two days. After this, they will easily take root in moist soil, sand or water. You can grow Decembrist from seeds, but this is a rather troublesome and lengthy process.

Graft

Those who like to experiment can grow grafted Decembrist in the form of a small tree. Other cacti can be used as a rootstock: cylindrical cereus, prickly pear, pereskia. The vaccination is done at the beginning of summer. The top of a rooted young cactus is cut off with a very sharp knife, the top of the stem is slightly split and a Decembrist cutting, consisting of three segments, is inserted into the split. The graft is secured with a thin needle and tied with thread.

When the sections grow together, the spines and leaves are removed from the cactus. After this, the bandage can be removed. As soon as the flower develops a crown, it should be tied to a peg to prevent it from breaking off. Owners need to know that grafted plants are short-lived: they grow very quickly and soon lose their shape. In addition, they are often affected by various rots.

Diseases, pests

If the Decembrist's stem segments begin to wither or die, yellow spots This means that the flower was attacked by a flat red mite. The disease is caused by excessively dry indoor air.

Direct rays of the sun make the plant stems limp and the color of the segments fades. But this may also be a sign that the root system has begun to rot in the absence of regular watering, or is damaged by pests.

If a flower sheds segments and buds, it means the air temperature in the room is too low. The plant can give the same reaction if there is insufficient watering, damage by pests and rotting of the roots. Lack of light or nutrients in the soil lead to the cessation of flowering.

The Decembrist is often affected by scale insects. In this case, the leaves first turn pale, then dry out and fall off. If you notice wounds on the surface of the stem, then fungal diseases are probably introduced with the contaminated soil: phytium, fusarium, late blight. To get rid of the disease, fungicides are used.

If slippery and wet spots appear on the flower, it means that it is infected with a bacterial infection. Antibacterial agents are not always effective, so it is more advisable to remove the affected stem or part of it.

Many people buy Decembrist, seduced by the beautiful flowering, but not knowing how to care for it. Therefore, we will tell you some secrets of growing this flower.

1. Decembrist has a very poorly developed root system, so it should be grown in low pots.
2. If you have purchased a flowering plant, do not rush to replant it immediately. Wait for it to bloom.
3. Young flowers are replanted every year, and adult plants - after three years.
4. After flowering has finished, the plant can be plucked (not trimmed) at the tops of the stems to give beautiful shape crown The stems will become more branched and many new shoots will appear.

The blooming Schlumberger flower is unusually beautiful: bright, attracting attention. At this time, it becomes a decoration of any interior. If under natural conditions Decembrist has only red flowers, then in indoor floriculture today plants are grown that delight with multi-colored buds. The flower is a long-liver. With proper care, it will decorate your apartment for twenty years.

Decembrist Buckley White - pink Decembrist Schlumberger Buckley
Schlumbergera truncated Schlumbergera yellowa Schlumbergera care

In the most dreary and sad time of the year, when the days are short and gloomy and we so miss the sun and bright colors summer, an inconspicuous green bush on the window suddenly becomes completely covered with buds. And now fountains of bright flowers run down the branches, and the bush turns into a real festive bouquet, lush and elegant. The wonderful cactus, which we call Decembrist after its flowering time, has bloomed in full force. In Europe and America it is called Christmas cactus. And living up to its name, this beautiful plant decorates the windowsill in December and January, as if uniting all Christians on our planet with its flowering.

This plant has several names: among botanists it is known as Schlumberger, we call him the Decembrist, but in the old days the Russians called him Varvarin color, Varvara's braid- either because of the stem, reminiscent of a girl’s braid, or because it blooms on the eve of St. Barbara’s Day, which was celebrated on December 17. And this exotic beauty from the jungles of Brazil came to our winter windowsills.

From tropical cacti Decembrists the most popular in indoor floriculture. And not because they are the most beautiful, let’s be honest, they are not as chic as their large-flowered relatives, but they are easy to grow at home. The first representatives of this plant were found in Brazil at the beginning of the 19th century. They received their botanical name in honor of the Frenchman Frederic Schlumberger, who was the first in Europe to learn how to grow them at home.

There are seven species of Schlumbergera found in the forests of Brazil. In nature, their numerous flat stems form profusely flowering spreading shrubs, which, under suitable conditions, quickly grow into extensive clumps. Domestic Schlumbergeras are low, highly branched bushes, some of them have a pronounced vertical growth, while the shoots of others are drooping. The branched stems consist of numerous segments - leaf-shaped segments 2 - 5 cm long, connected to each other in a chain. Some species have sharp teeth along the edges of the segments. At the ends of the shoots - young segments - spear-shaped buds are formed, and then appear bright flowers. Most often they are pink-red, but there are varieties with a wide variety of petal colors.

The flowers are multi-tiered - as if strung on one axis, with a long bunch of stamens protruding beyond the petals. The tube is elongated, the corolla is often beveled and directed downward or to the side, the petals can bend back. All this was created by nature for the convenience of hummingbirds - after all, it is these birds that pollinate the flowering cactus in their homeland, in the tropics.

Schlumbergera is often confused with its close relative, Ripsalidopsis. They are indeed very similar, but there are differences in the structure of the stems and flowers. In ripsalidopsis, the stem segments are more fleshy, the protrusions on them are almost invisible, and at the ends of the segments and along the edges a semblance of spines (in the form of thick bristles) is preserved. From one segment in Ripsalidopsis three grow, and in Schlumbergera two. Ripsalidopsis flowers are formed along the entire length and side of the segments; they are funnel-shaped or daisy-like. Flowering occurs from April to July. By the way, for the spring appearance of flowers it was nicknamed the Easter cactus. In contrast, Schlumbergera has the main flowering period - from late November to January, sometimes a second one is possible, not so abundant - from late March to early May.

On the home window and on shelves flower shops Most often you can find two types of Schlumbergrera: Schlumberger Buckley, Schlumberger truncated and its many hybrids.

Schlumbergera varieties

Real Decembrist, that is, grown on our windowsills for a long time, is Schlumbergera Buckley, it was its flowering that our great-grandmothers admired in December. This plant is the most unpretentious and long-lived: there are real family heirlooms - specimens that are up to three decades old. IN wildlife does not grow, but is a product of the mind and hands of man. Long time it was believed that this man was Schluberger, but half a century ago it turned out that he was bred in 1860 by the Englishman William Buckley. Since then, our Decembrist has combined the names of Buckley and Schlumberger in his official name.

There are three varieties of this plant that were created by Buckley. They differ in the color of the flowers. U Snowy red, Rollissoni fuchsia colors, and Buckley the tube is white, the petals have a reddish tint. Decembrist Buckley is capable of growing into a large bush, reaching a diameter of 1.5 m and up to 0.5 m in height. Its shoots hang in an arched manner, the segments are without teeth, with rounded edges, the flowers are pendulous, radially symmetrical, usually carmine pink, multi-tiered, with a long bunch of staminate filaments, similar to bright plumes. It blooms until the end of January, sometimes longer; in March, strong adult specimens bloom again.

Schlumberger truncated very similar to her relative, but there are differences. The edges of the segments have sharp teeth, as if with notches. Flowers with an oblique floral tube and petals bent back, red-pink, rarely white, appear much earlier, already in October-November. Nowadays, it is this species that has become the basis for the creation of many beautiful varieties. For about twenty years now, new plants have been entering the flower market, which are gradually displacing the veteran - the Decembrist. It is difficult to find words to describe the richness of their color; it seems that there are all possible tones of the palette, from snow-white to purple. The plants themselves are quite compact, their stems are straight or slightly drooping. After the first flowering, they can be covered with flowers 2 – 3 more times. These plants do not live as long as Decembrist Buckley; many varieties require more careful care and react painfully to miscalculations with watering, but in general they are quite stable.

Creation of new varieties goes in several directions.

• Bush shape. Some Decembrists have compact plants with emphasized vertical growth, thick, powerful shoots that can withstand the weight of numerous flowers (Red Polyploid, Sanibel), while others have an ampelous shape (Lavander Doll, Red Radiance), thanks to which the plants look great in hanging baskets and flowerpots .
• Flower size. Many new selections are different large flowers. For example, in the Cambridge variety the flower length reaches 8 cm, and in the Windsor variety it is 8.7 cm with a width of 7 cm.
• Shape and color of petals. They can be wide and narrow, round and sharp. The color of the flowers is white (White Christmas), pink (Christmas Fantasy, Pastel), red (Carmen, Red Polyploid), yellow (Christmas Flame, Cambridge), orange (Orange Flame), lavender (Windsor), lilac (Tango Dancer), purple (Sanibel) and even consist of several colors (white - orange - crimson Kris Kringle).

Today, in the world, from Holland to Australia, there are already several hundred varieties, some of which are united in variety series. Their production is put on an industrial basis, and they are grown in huge quantities for sale.

Schlumbergera care

Although the Decembrists are cacti, their needs differ from their brothers from the deserts. However, this is normal, because these plants live in places with different climates. If you know where an indoor flower comes from and in what conditions it grows in nature, then it becomes clearer how to care for it in an apartment.

The Decembrists are true conservatives; they prefer constancy and moderation in everything. They do not like frequent and sudden changes in temperature: in summer they are comfortable at 18 - 25 degrees, in winter 16 - 18. To please them, you must avoid both excessive watering and drying out earthen coma. Water the plants with soft, settled water at room temperature. And only when the soil layer dries to a depth of 2–3 cm. It is easier for Decembrists to tolerate a slight drought than excess moisture, because by their nature they are succulents, which means they have tissues to store water. Overmoistening, especially at low temperatures, is detrimental for them, since the root system is too weak. When flooded, segments and buds fall off. It happens that, having discovered such a nuisance, they begin to water the plant intensively, which worsens the situation. If such problems with the root system arise, it is necessary to replace watering with spraying for a while.

These inhabitants of tropical forests live well if the air is moist and clean, but it is better to avoid drafts. Air humidity is increased by grouping several plants together and placing them on a tray with pebbles and moss, wetting them periodically. You can place a special air humidifier next to the pots, indoor fountains, which will also decorate the room.

The light needs to be diffused, but at the same time bright, because the illumination in the tropical forest is very high, it is incomparable to our Central Russian forest. Therefore, it is better to keep the Decembrist on the windowsill.

The period of growth of the Decembrist occurs in spring - summer. Before this process gains scope and strength, a transplant needs to be carried out. You can’t put it off until later, otherwise the leaf segments will ripen later, which will weaken the flowering of the plants. Young cacti are replanted every year, then, as they grow older, after 2–3 years. For large old specimens that are difficult to handle, simply replace the top layer of soil with fertile fresh one.

The pot is selected according to the size of the root system, not the crown; it should not be too spacious. To avoid stagnation of water, fill about a third of the height with expanded clay, small pebbles or pieces of brick. The soil mixture is poured on top, not reaching the edge of the pot by 1.5 - 2 cm. Options soil mixture several, they are united by three conditions: it must be nutritious, very loose, with neutral acidity. This can be a mixture of turf and leaf soil, humus and coarse sand (1: 3: 2: 1), or peat, leaf soil and sand (2: 1: 1), or leaf soil, peat, sand and turf soil (3 :3:3:1). Leavening agents are added in any case. For varietal plants, it is useful to add pine bark.

In spring and summer, all conditions are created for the Decembrists to gain strength. Watering is gradually increased and more frequent - in hot weather they need almost as much moisture as leafy plants consume. Showers and similar ablutions will be gratefully accepted.

The pots are placed in the brightest place, slightly shaded from direct sun to avoid burns. Plants can be rotated occasionally so that all parts receive enough light and the bushes do not become one-sided. They feel good on the balcony, and even better in the country, buried in a semi-shaded place in the garden.

Throughout the entire growth period, feed once a month with full mineral fertilizer, using half the amount specified in the instructions. However the best option– fertilizing with fertilizer for cacti with low nitrogen content.

In August, watering and fertilizing begin to be gradually reduced so that the segments - the segments on which the buds will be laid - have time to ripen.

Autumn is a time of rest and budding. From mid-September to mid-November, most Decembrists rest, briefly plunging into lung condition peace. Watering at this time is needed very sparingly, it can even be reduced to one spraying. Feeding is excluded altogether.

During the rest period, our task is to help the Decembrist lay flower buds. And for this you need a suitable combination of daylight hours and temperature. It is optimal if the plants are in the light for 11 - 12 hours at a temperature not higher than 21 degrees during the day and 7 - 15 degrees at night. If the room is too warm, the Decembrist will simply increase the green mass and refuse to bloom. You should not expect flowering in too cold a room.

As soon as the first buds appear, the Decembrist is placed in its original place, not hot and light. Now you can water it more often and it’s time to pamper it with fertilizer for flowering indoor plants.

The time for the Decembrist to bloom occurs in winter - the beginning of spring.

Having identified the Decembrist on appropriate place(for example, on a window, but away from radiators), the pot cannot be moved anymore, so as not to change the position of the plant in relation to the light. At this time, the Decembrist does not like to be touched; as a sign of protest, he can even drop his buds. They try to maintain the temperature at 22 degrees. Feeding is carried out every two weeks, without stopping during flowering. Watering should be such that the soil does not dry out, but is not too wet. You need to water with warm water in the first half of the day.

In city apartments in winter, Decembrists often suffer from low air humidity, so you must try to humidify them using all the previously described methods.

When flowering ends, the resting phase begins again, this time very short, 2–3 weeks. Watering is again reduced and the plants are kept cool until the onset of stable spring warmth.

Formation of the Decembrists

Adult Decembrists must form regularly. As a result, the shoots begin to actively branch, the bush becomes dense and dense, flowering intensifies, because buds form only on young shoots.

Formation is usually started in the spring, when it becomes clear that the Decembrist is not going to bloom anymore. If necessary, it can be carried out in the summer. In autumn, when the time for flower buds to form is approaching, the plant needs rest, so it should not be disturbed, even if this is connected with the creation of beauty.

Poorly located segments are not cut off, but pinched. Holding the lower part of the young stem with one hand, with the other they simply rotate the upper segments along the longitudinal axis, separating 1 - 3 segments where they connect. The operation site is sprinkled with crushed charcoal. Removed shoots are used for cuttings. Old, unbranched stems, as well as those growing deep into the bush, are twisted and cut out with scissors or pruning shears.

Protection of Decembrists from pests and diseases

The Decembrist rarely gets sick, and pests do not bother him. However, if they attack neighboring plants, they can damage it too.

Ticks, feeding on plant juices, usually appear in dry and poorly ventilated areas. On the surface of the stem they are visible as tiny, less than a millimeter, red dots; thin rusty stains can be seen on the segments. Pests cause the fall of segments and buds, and if they spread strongly, the death of the roots. The fight must be carried out using infusions and decoctions of onions and garlic, washing with a solution of tar soap.

Small, cotton-like lumps between the shoots are egg laying mealybug, which also feeds on plant sap. Insects can be washed off with a hot (as your hand tolerates) stream of water, or removed with a swab or stiff brush soaked in alcohol or alcohol tincture of garlic.

The most dangerous diseases of the Decembrist - rotten. Most often they are caused by mistakes made when caring for the plant: excessive watering, lack of drainage in the pot, wintering at low temperatures, high humidity and poor air circulation. Rot can affect all parts of the plant, manifesting itself as various spots, causing drying out of young shoots, falling of segments, and rotting of the root system.

To treat the above-ground part, Decembrist is sprayed with fungicides (Fitosporin - M, Fundazol, HOM, Oxychom). If the roots are damaged, the plants are removed from the pot and inspected. In case of minor damage, the diseased parts of the roots are removed, the remaining ones are generously sprinkled with coal powder and planted in fresh soil. If the roots are dead or severely damaged aboveground part, it is safer to cut cuttings above the site of infection and grow a new plant.

Reproduction of Schlübergera

After 10 - 15 years, the stems of the Decembrist tree become lignified, it loses its beauty, which means it’s time to replace the old plant with a new, young one. For this operation, cuttings from the upper segments are used.

Multiply Decembrists Cuttings can be taken from April to the end of summer. Ideally, the cutting will consist of 2 - 3 segments. They are carefully unscrewed by hand at the junction, as when forming. Then it is dried from several hours to several days so that a film forms on the cut surface. Then they simply lay it on the substrate or slightly deepen the lower end of the cutting.

The segments take root well in coconut substrate, a mixture of river sand and vermiculite (1:1), other combinations are possible, for example, peat, sand and vermiculite in equal parts with the addition of charcoal. The main thing is that the mixture contains a lot of raising agents and additives, then the risk of rotting of the cuttings is reduced. The plantings are loosely covered with a plastic bag; for the first two weeks they are not watered, but only humidified by spraying. Taking root Schlumbergers growing indoor flowers to your email address.

Schlumbergera or zygocactus is an unpretentious indoor flower that can bloom in winter, in December, when other plants are sleeping or sick from lack of sun - have made it a favorite on for a long time and were awarded the popular nicknames “Decembrist”, “Rozhdestvennik” or “Christmas cactus”. Schlumbergera is a branching plant with long articulated branches (another popular name for the flower is “cancer neck”). What we usually mistake for Decembrist leaves - thin plates fastened to each other - is actually the stem of the flower, on which its buds appear.

The article describes the main indoor species of Schlumbergera, gives advice on how to make Decembrist bloom, and also provides basic recommendations for propagating and caring for this plant.

Schlumberger truncated ( Schlumbergera truncatus)

In this species, shoots can reach 40 cm in length, the stems hang beautifully. The color of the stem is light green, sometimes it can have a reddish tint; the size of one fragment of the stem varies from 4-5 cm in length and up to 2-2.5 cm in width. There are sharp teeth on the sides of the segments. The flowers of this variety have a variety of shades: from white and pink to purple and lilac.

Schlumberger truncated

Schlumberger Buckley (Schlumbergera bucklei) Bookley

It is also an ampelous type of plant; its stem segments have rounded teeth. Flowers appear at the ends of the stems. The color of the flowers is pinkish-lilac.

Schlumberger Buckley

The difference between Schlumbergera truncated and Hedgehog

Schlumbergera prickly pear ( Schlumbergera opuntioides)

This species is more reminiscent of a cactus - the stem segments are teardrop-shaped and covered with spines growing in numerous areoles. In addition, the stem fragments are much thicker than those of other Zygocactus species. This species blooms with pinkish-purple flowers in March-April.

Schlumbergera prickly pear

Schlumberger Gertner ( Schlumbergera gaertneri)

The stem segments of this species can reach a length of 6-7 cm. The flowers are orange-red, with pointed petals.

Schlumberger Gertner

Schlumberger Rousselian ( Schlumbergera Russelliana)

The stems of this species can reach 1 meter in length. The stems are bright green, with red veins, shiny, fleshy. The leaves are round in shape. Blooms red-violet and pink flowers.

Schlumberger Rousselian

Schlumbergera or Ripsalidopsis?

The Schlumbergens have real confusion with their relatives. Decembrist belongs to the subfamily of epiphytic cacti. In addition to Schlumbergera, this subfamily includes three more species of cacti:

• Rhipsalis;
• Lepismium;
• Hathiora (Ripsalidopsis) ().

Previously, Schlumbergera was compared to Ripsalidopsis, and now you can still find the division of flowers into Schlumbergera and Ripsalidopsis.

But according to the modern classification of plants, rhipsalidopsis is included in the species hatiora. Therefore, looking for differences between Schlumbergera and Ripsalidopsis is not entirely correct. It would be more correct to say that Schlumbergera is similar to Hatiora, but plants of one species can still be distinguished from plants of another by a number of characteristics:

• Schlumbegera and hatiora flowers have different flowering and dormant times. The real Decembrist blooms in December-January, and hatiora (ripsalidopsis), on the contrary, blooms in the spring. That is why this species was nicknamed “Easter cactus” or “Easter cactus”. Hatiora's dormant period occurs in autumn and winter, before flowering.
• Decembrist's flowers resemble a regular star, while Easter's flowers are asymmetrical, slightly curly, and you can see a tube in them.
• The shape of the stem plates of Schlumbergera is oblong with denticles. Hatiora has smooth serrations; sometimes the edge of the plate may have a reddish color.

Yes, the two types of plants have differences, but they are still very similar, and the principles of caring for them are the same.

Care

Zygocacti are not too picky. They grow well on a windowsill in an ordinary apartment. However, if you want to have a healthy, flowering plant, then it is better to adhere to the basic rules of caring for them.

Soil and replanting

In nature, zygocacti, like other epiphytes, can grow in tree crevices, holding onto the bark with their roots. Therefore, their root system is not very developed, and the pot can be taken not too large, and drainage should occupy about a third of it.

Plants are replanted depending on the growth and filling of the pot before growth begins - in March-April. For a young, fast-growing plant, annual replanting is possible; for an adult flower, replanting can be done once every 3-4 years.

You can take ready-made soil for Schlumbergera from the store. Soil for cacti is suitable, but it needs to be diluted by a quarter with coarse sand. You can prepare the soil yourself. To do this you need to take:

• Leaf humus;
• Peat in small quantities;
• Sand or perlite so that the soil is loose and allows water to pass through;
• Don't forget about the drainage layer.

Fertilizer

Fertilizing should be carried out from March to September 1-2 times a month with fertilizers for cacti and succulents, and only on moist soil. You can’t fertilize in winter!

Temperature, watering and lighting

Spring Summer: This is a period of active growth, the temperature should be about 20-25 degrees. It is better to place zygocacti in places with good diffused light, avoiding direct sunlight, which burns the leaves. South-east and south-west windows are best suited for cactus. It is not recommended to place the plant in the shade. Feels great on balconies and loggias - in well-ventilated areas. Watering moderate as the soil dries completely. About once a week. You can look at the condition of the leaves; if they become softer, a little lethargic, you need to water the plant.

• For zygocactus, it is better to water from the bottom;
• Decembrists love high humidity. You can spray them from time to time;
• In the summer, you can bathe the zygocactus in the shower;
• For irrigation, use clean water (settled or filtered) at room temperature.

Autumn winter: Preparing the plant for flowering:

Bloom

IN autumn period(from late September to mid-November), for the formation of flower buds, zygocactus needs to change the conditions:

• Place in a cool place where the temperature will not be higher than 20˚, but not lower than 10-13˚;
• Reduce watering;
• The place in which the Schlumbergera will be located must be shaded.

In mid-late November, move the Decembrist to a warm place, place it on the windowsill.

• During the period when buds or flowers appear on the Decembrist, it is important not to turn its other side towards the sun and not to move it at all, since the Decembrist can drop them without ever starting to bloom;
• The flowering plant is watered, but not sprayed;
• Fertilizers are not needed during flowering.

To stimulate the growth of buds in March-April, long shoots are pinched. To do this, you need to break off or unscrew 1-2 segments of an old, long shoot.

Rest period

After the zygocactus has bloomed, you need to provide it with rest, until about March.

• Recommended temperature - 13-17 degrees;
• Rare watering (once every one and a half to two weeks);
• No fertilizer.

Reproduction

Cuttings

The easiest method of propagation is cuttings. For propagation, it is necessary to break off or unscrew a small shoot from an adult plant - 2-3 segments are enough. The cuttings need to be dried for several days and then buried at a slight slope in prepared moist soil. Rooting will occur better if you cover the cutting with a glass jar. But in this case, regularly ventilate and remove condensation so that your cutting does not rot.

Using seeds

Schlumbergera may bear fruit. But in indoor conditions it is quite difficult to obtain the fruit, because the flowers need to be pollinated. In nature, this is done by hummingbirds or hawk moths. But if you have different types Decembrist, which you would not mind crossing - try our method.

However, if waiting for the fruits of the Decembrist is too long and tedious, then you can buy seeds of different varieties of Schlumbergera in the store and, planting them on one windowsill, enjoy a mix of flowers of different colors in the winter.

• It is better to sow zygocactus seeds in May-June, on moist soil;
• There is no need to cover them with soil;
• You can cover with film and ventilate regularly, removing excess moisture from time to time;
• You can pick young plants 2 months after the seeds germinate;

Plant grafting

Decembrist can also be grafted onto other plants, for example, prickly pear, echinopsis or pereskia. The grafted plant will bloom abundantly and retain the characteristics of its variety in full.

• To graft, a cut is made on the supply and then split;
• 2-3 segments of the zygocactus are broken off, and then the break is carefully sharpened;
• Insert the segments into the cleft of the supply and fix them with a thin needle or a narrow strip of fabric;
• The temperature should not be higher than 18-20˚;
• Decembrist can grow onto another plant in a couple of weeks;
• After growth, you can remove the supporting needles and bandages;
• It is also necessary to remove growing shoots in a timely manner so as not to break the graft.

Diseases and pests

Schlumbergera is not particularly demanding in care, but it can also get sick if you do not follow the rules of watering and lighting.

• The shoots are sluggish and pale. Perhaps the zygocactus is experiencing a lack of light and watering;
• The shoots began to turn red. This happens if the Schlumbergera is in direct sunlight;
• Decembrist does not bloom. This means that the rest period was not properly organized: coolness, shading and poor watering;
• If the zygocactus has dropped its buds and flowers, then most likely the plant has changed the direction of illumination, the temperature has changed, or the flower is standing in a draft;
• Erosion (with redness) appeared on the leaves - the plant was burned.
• Most often, the plant suffers from fungal or bacterial diseases. Rotten and diseased parts of the plant are carefully removed. Treatment is carried out with fungicides.
• Among the pests that can settle on a flower are mealybugs, spider mites, and scale insects. They'll do a great job with them special means from the shop.

Useful video

Schlumbergera has been used in indoor floriculture for a very long time. She is loved for her unpretentiousness and bright flowers in winter. This plant will look spectacular in hanging flowerpots, and in an ordinary pot on the windowsill and, without a doubt, will decorate any home.

Schlumberger (or more simply - Decembrist) can often be found among experienced flower growers. Its unforgettable bloom sank into the soul, even if you see it just once. Beginners often wonder: is it easy to grow this flower at home? Caring for it is really not easy, but with the help of our tips anything is possible.

Schlumberger (Decembrist) - description

Schlumbergera is an epiphytic plant that naturally grows on the trunks and roots of trees. Belongs to the Cactus family. It is also called epiphytic cactus, zygocactus or Christmas tree.

This cactus is native to the coastal forests of southeastern Brazil (near the Atlantic Ocean). Widely distributed in the vicinity of Rio de Janeiro. Accordingly, it loves a humid climate and diffused light. Schlumbergera also grows in the mountainous areas of Brazil at an altitude of up to 2800 m above sea level.

The Decembrist brings benefits not only to his own beautiful view, but also cleanses the air of harmful compounds. This wonderful flower is very common in gardeners' homes. In some families it is even passed down as a family heirloom from generation to generation.

This plant is named after the French succulent lover Frederic Schlumberger. Because of the “family” name, many people wonder “in what gender is this word.” They often write “schlumberger”, but this is incorrect. The exact name of “schlumbergera” is like “Saintpaulia”, “begonia”. That is, it is a feminine word. Of course, if you say “schlumbergera cactus,” you are using the masculine gender, since you are talking about it as a cactus.

With proper care, Schlumbergera can live for a very long time, more than 30 years. Its content is simple, but certain rules must be followed.

Under natural conditions, Schlumbergera blooms from May, which in the climate zone of Europe and Russia corresponds to winter time. Therefore, this flower is called the Christmas cactus, Decembrist and Christmas cactus. It is grown in ordinary pots, as an ampel plant (the pots are hung) and even as a bonsai.

How to grow Schlumbergera - photo gallery

Hang from the ceiling Place on bookshelf Place on the windowsill Hang on a tree in the garden Make a bonsai Place in the bedroom Place on the stairs Place on a bread bin Place on a shelf Decorate a nondescript corner Give as a gift Hang on the veranda

Schlumbergera leaves are light or dark green in color, flat and consist of segments. There may be a reddish border along the edges of the leaves. Aerial roots grow on some segments.

Aerial roots are visible between the segments, with bristles at the ends

Despite the fact that this flower is a cactus, it does not have spines. Instead, Schlumbergera has small bristles growing at the tips of its branches.

The stem of Schlumbergera is branched. The falling branches form a bush that grows with a diameter of about 70 cm. The trunk becomes woody with age.

The root system of Schlumbergera is quite weak, so the plant does not tolerate excess watering and does not tolerate cold water. The flowers bloom at the ends of the segments and last for about five days. Their color range is very diverse. With proper care, Schlumbergera produces a large number of flowers, which bloom in “batches” one by one.

How the Decembrist blooms - photo

This is how Decembrist can bloom profusely with proper care Unusual shape flowers decorate even more Orange flowers lift your spirits Even the most normal look The blooming Decembrist leaves no one indifferent A whole bush of pale pink flowers Bright color pleasing to the eye

This genus of cacti is also called zygocactus. The genus includes 6 main species of cacti. There are many hybrid species and varieties. Hence the variety of Schlumbergera flowers. Their shades and color intensity may vary due to changes in maintenance conditions: temperature, light, feeding.

When cross-pollinated, edible fleshy fruits are formed on the flowers, similar in appearance to rose hips. They additionally decorate the Schlumbergera for several more months. The seeds are very small and dark. They ripen within five to eight months.

Schlumbergera fruits in the photo

After cross-pollination, fruits began to form. Fruits grow at the ends of the segments. This is what the fruit looks like in cross-section. There are also double fruits.

Varieties of Schlumbergera and its difference from Ripsalidopsis

Ripsalidopsis is often confused with Decembrist. Without going into scientific details, the main difference between Rhipsalidopsis and Schlumbergera is that it blooms in the spring. It is called the Easter cactus. Another difference is the shape of the leaves. Compare in the photo.

Sometimes other types of cacti with similar flowers, although their flowering times vary. For example, dysocactus and others.

Schlumbergera can bloom from November to February. Most often, flowering lasts from December to February. Depending on the conditions of maintenance and the hybrid species, Schlumbergera may bloom again in the spring.

Of the six species and their hybrids, they mainly contain two. This:

• Truncated (Trunkata). It has jagged projections along the edges of the leaves. It’s clear from the name that something is truncated somewhere. Namely, this is a flower corolla, which seems to be beveled. Many colors of flowers have been developed: pink, red, white, orange, crimson, yellow and others. There are also multi-color ones.
• Buckley (Buckley). This species is usually called “Decembrist”. Its leaves have rounded projections. The flowers are a non-hybrid lilac-pink color. Hybrid varieties have the same variety of colors as Truncata.

Three more popular varieties are Gertnera, Orssich and Rousseliana. Breeders have already created several hundred varieties of Schlumbergera hybrid species, which are combined into variety series. Types and varieties differ in the shape and size of the bush, in the shape and color of the flowers.

Types of Schlumbergera in the photo

Buckley (Buckley) Gertner Orsich Russell (Russelliana) Truncated (truncata)

Caring for Schlumbergera does not depend on the variety. Choose the one you like best.

Can be planted in one pot different varieties. But you can’t plant Schlumbergera together with similar genera that bloom at different times!(For example, with ripsalidopsis or epiphyllum). Their conditions are similar, but the preparation time for flowering is different.

When choosing a variety, keep in mind that the color in the photo may differ from the natural one. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a variety after seeing the flower “live”.

Photo gallery: a huge variety of Decembrist varieties

Anapolis Brazil Angel Dance Ascot Aspen Bahia Brazil Big Fire Bridgeport Bruxas Brazil Bulletin Cambridge Christmas Сheer Coral Cascade Sunny Bright Pink Illusion Fairy Tale Floral Bouquet Inca Sun Day Bloomers Gold Charm Epic Star Just Peachy Liberty Jasma Jay Madonna Dance Malissa Outono Brazil Parana Brazil Campinas Brazil Peaches and cream Red Flame Rusty Samba Brazil Sao Paulo Brasil Savannah Sol Brasi Sp Rober Sterling Thor Kiri Thor Vida Thore Alise Vila Velha Brazil White Eva Exotic Dancer

Schlumbergers do not tolerate either excessive moisture or drying out. But from my own experience I will say: it’s better to dry it out than to flood it. A dried out flower recovers much better than a flooded one. Most often, the only salvation for a flooded flower is to cut off segments of its leaves and root again, because the roots quickly rot.

Schlumbergera life cycle table at home

Months Cycle	Lighting	Humidity, watering	Temperature	Additionally
September October Dormancy, preparation for flowering, formation of flower buds	Slight shading	Watering infrequently as the soil dries out. No need to spray.	Reduction to +15–18. You can leave it on the balcony, but don’t let it drop below +15!	Fresh air flow, but not drafts. In October, feed once with complex fertilizer for cacti.
November-January Flowering period	Scattered light	High humidity. Spray. Watering is regular. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely.	+18–22	Fertilize with fertilizer for flowering plants twice a week or once every ten days with fertilizer for cacti. You cannot change the conditions of maintenance or rotate the flower.
February March Rest, preparation for the growing season	Slight shading	Moderate watering	+15–18	Pinch off the end segments to form a crown. Fertilize once with cactus fertilizer.
March - September Growing season	Scattered light	Regular watering	+18–20	Application of complex fertilizers once every 2 weeks. Ventilation. Transfer if necessary.
June August The growing season, preparation for dormancy.	Scattered light	Spray regularly with warm water. Have a warm shower. Regular watering	+18–25	Keep outdoors or ventilate. Fertilize once every two weeks with cactus fertilizer.

Not every gardener has the desire and time to follow the maintenance regime according to the scheme. If your Decembrist grows on your window, then you don’t have to give it a rest period. The main thing is to know the basic conditions necessary for it:

• Temperature. The Decembrist does not like either cold or heat. Best Temperature for him - room temperature, without sharp fluctuations, not lower than +15 degrees and not higher than +25. Can withstand short-term temperature drops down to +5 degrees. At temperatures below +12 degrees, it does not set flower buds.
• Fresh air. The Decembrist needs fresh air. Ventilate it. With the beginning of spring, the flower can be taken out onto the balcony. Doesn't like drafts.
• Humidity, spraying. The humidity required is quite high, because in nature this flower receives moisture not only through the roots, but also through the leaves and aerial roots.

If kept cool, do not spray during the dormant period. At any other time, you can spray the leaves even during flowering. The main thing is that the water is soft and warm. You can use boiled one.

• Watering, shower. Schlumberger likes moderate watering, when the clod of earth dries two cm. But during flowering, watering increases. When there are no flowers, it is useful to give the Schlumberger a warm shower. At the same time, cover the ground with cellophane so that water does not get into the soil!

When watering, do not pour too much water. Use only warm and settled (about a day) water. If your water is hard and contains impurities, then water it with filtered water or, in extreme cases, boiled water.

If you have dried out the plant and its leaves have wrinkled, then water it and spray it. He will quickly restore his healthy appearance. But of course, if you have dried out a large Decembrist so that all its roots have dried out, then it is better to pinch off the branches and plant again.

• A change of scenery. Schlumberger is intolerant of drastic climate change. Do not under any circumstances change the orientation of the Decembrist plant during flowering, otherwise the flowers and buds may fall off. You can move it without turning it towards the light. But it’s best to wait until flowering ends.
• Clean leaves. In nature, Schlumbergera receives nutrition and water mainly from aerial roots and leaves. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the leaves are clean from dust. You can wipe them with a damp cloth or sponge. After wiping or showering, you can walk over the leaves with the back of a banana peel or with a yolk diluted in water. This is also additional nutrition.

The Decembrist came to me completely by accident. I found two pieces near the garbage chute. I picked it up because I’m “sick” when it comes to flowers and am dragging home any shoots that turn up. I put it in the water. I decided to search the Internet to see what I found.

Previously, I had no business with the Decembrists and did not pay attention to them. After searching the Internet, I became convinced that my foundling was nothing more than a Schlumbergera or simply a Decembrist. But while I was looking, I saw a variety of species and somehow immediately decided that I wanted “with white flowers.”

My Decembrist began. And, imagine, it bloomed with white flowers! Then a little yellow one appeared.))) Now I want other shades. It's a pity, the window sills don't allow it. It is completely unpretentious in care. I water it when the soil dries out. Sometimes I feed it.

In the summer I send it to the loggia and keep it there until it gets cold. In the summer I feed more often in company with hippeastrums. Then I take it home and watch the buds grow. :)

Valentina

http://otzovik.com/review_3199397.html

Bush formation and propagation

When your Schlumbergera has finished flowering, it needs to be shaped. Segments are broken off (not cut off!) from the tips of the shoots so that the entire bush acquires an even contour and the branches are not too long. As a result, we will have a beautiful bush formed, the stems will branch more and the flowering will become more abundant.

Reproduction by segments (cuttings)

Do not throw away the segments after shaping! They are getting along well. This is the easiest way to propagate Schlumbergera.

1. Break off the segments.

   Pinch off the segments

2. The cuttings first need to be dried a little (a day or two). Sections can be treated with ash.

   Dry and treat with ash

3. Then root in water or soil. Do not place them in drafts or direct sunlight. Place in a warm place with diffused light.

   Root in soil or water

4. Stick the Decembrist segments superficially into damp soil (I use orchid or cactus soil for this). You can moisten the soil with the addition of “root” and beneficial soil bacteria (Alirin-B, Gamair).
   

   Do not use transparent containers for planting so that the soil does not bloom! It is better to immediately plant it in a small pot with drainage. You can simply “put” the cutting on the ground and “support” it with something so that it does not fall. This is done so that it does not rot.

5. Cover the cutting with a glass or film. Don't forget to check and ventilate your greenhouse a little every day.

   It is necessary to regularly ventilate the greenhouse

6. When you see that the cutting has begun to produce a new segment, remove the covering. There is no need to replant until a good root system has formed. Care for the sprout as usual for a Decembrist.

   Rooted cuttings produce new segments

How to root a plant in water

Reproduction and formation through grafting

A very interesting way of forming and propagating Schlumbergera is grafting. Another type of cactus is suitable for grafting. For example, prickly pear.

The top of the prickly pear is cut off and the Schlumbergera segments are tied or pinned to the cut. You can also graft to the side by making a cut and tying the graft to the stem.

How to vaccinate Schlumbergera - photo

One of the methods of grafting onto the Decembrist cactus, grafted onto different cacti. Such a small cactus and so many grafted branches!
This is how Decembrist grafted onto prickly pear blooms so beautifully. It’s like a Christmas tree from a grafted Decembrist!

Propagation using seeds

Decembrist can also be propagated using seeds. This is a more labor-intensive and lengthy process, but interesting. Such plants usually bloom in the second year.

For propagation you need to take two flowering plants. Cross-pollinate with a brush or cotton swab. You can use a faded flower from one plant to pollinate another. It is better to cross-pollinate from the second day of flowering.

Fruit of the Decembrist

If two plants bloom at different times, then you can cut off the anthers early and save them until the second flower blooms.

The seeds in the fruits ripen in 6–8 months. Remove them when they become soft. The seeds are cleared of pulp and washed in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Small seeds inside the fruit

You need to sow on the surface of moist soil without sprinkling. You can press it a little. Seeds germinate at temperatures above +22 degrees. If the temperature is lower, germination deteriorates. After about a week, the seeds germinate.

The sprouts are planted (planted) 6–8 weeks after the seeds have sprouted. The first year they need to be replanted every three months. In the second year - only three times a year.

For the first year and a half, the sprouts can be replanted together, and then planted separately or in small bushes so that they are not crowded. Feed with fertilizers for cacti starting from two months. Reduce the dosage by half. To grow segments faster, you can spray them with a nitrogen solution once every two months. It is better to use ammonia (ammonia) for this purpose. This includes fertilizing with nitrogen and repelling harmful insects. Spraying consumption: half a teaspoon of ammonia per liter of water.

Technically, there are no difficulties: just take two flowering plants, which are definitely not related, and immerse the “nose” of one in the pollen of the other and rub it lightly. It is better to pollinate on the second or third day of flowering.

If your plants bloom at different times, then this is also not a problem. As practice has shown, pollen can retain its properties for several weeks. Cut off the anthers of a flower blooming for the second day, wrap them in paper and store until needed.

I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that although the yellow one participated as one of the parents of many seedlings, but not a single one yellow flower I didn’t have one, although it can be seen in many. This means that the yellow gene itself is weak, and if you want to get yellow flowers, then it is better to pollinate two yellow varieties. It's the same with white.

I had to pollinate the white flower too, but I don’t have any white seedlings either. Orange and red seem to be the more dominant colors. I'll add some more pictures of the seedlings getting ready to bloom in the coming week. I must say that, contrary to my expectations, during the first flowering the flowers were quite large - from up to 7 cm. Despite the fact that the height of the plants themselves did not exceed 12 cm. I am looking forward to spring and repeated flowering.

In the end, I want to say that I think my efforts were not in vain, although most of the seedlings look like their parents, I still received several unusual plants. I was especially pleased with the first and second flowers. Now I set myself the goal of getting a variegated Schlumbergera with yellow and tricolor flowers.

Gala

http://frauflora.ru/viewtopic.php?t=7502

Planting and feeding zygocactus

How to determine that a Decembrist needs a transplant? When the roots begin to crawl out of the drainage hole, this is a sign that it needs to be transplanted into a slightly larger pot. If the flower has not been replanted for a long time, but the roots have not grown enough for replanting, then you can simply renew the top layer of soil.

The best soil composition for Schlumbergera:

1. Fine perlite, peat and leaf soil in a ratio of 1:1:3
2. Leaf soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1.
3. Ready soil for cacti.

When landing to ready soil add charcoal (birch). You can add sphagnum.

When preparing a pot for planting, keep in mind that it should not be spacious. Firstly, so that Schlumbergera can bloom in the same season, and not waste energy on forming a large root system. And secondly, so that the roots in a pot that is too spacious do not rot. It is better to choose a lower and wider slide.

So, we have chosen a suitable pot. Pour one third of drainage into the bottom (expanded clay is best). Let's try on our flower and add the required amount of prepared earth mixed with ash.

Let's put the bush up, cover it with soil up to the growing point and press it down a little. Leave some soil so that during the shrinking process you have something to add to the pot. There is no need to water for the first two or three days! This way the Decembrist will better withstand the stress of the transplant.

On average, you need to feed twice a month. See life cycle table.

You can use complex fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants, fertilizers for cacti and fertilizers for flowering plants during the flowering period. If you are not using the fertilizer for cacti, then reduce the dosage by half.

During the growing season, when the Decembrist grows leaves, you can spray it with nitrogen. To do this, you can use ammonia (ammonia). In this form it is easier for the flower to assimilate. Consumption for watering: 1 teaspoon per liter of water.

Video about growing Decembrist

Video - how to achieve constant flowering of the Christmas tree

Diseases and pests, care errors

With proper care, the Decembrist is very rarely affected by diseases and pests. But if you notice your flower is unwell, determine the reason. Let's look at the main symptoms of Schlumbergera diseases and how to eliminate them.

Symptoms	Possible reason	Elimination
Sheds buds or outer segments of shoots.	Improper watering or dry air.	If you have flooded a flower, dry the soil. If dried, water and also spray the leaves.
	We turned the flower back to the light, there was a draft.	Return the flower to the reverse position and do not rearrange it until the end of flowering. Avoid drafts.
Limp, pale leaves.	Lighting too bright	Move the flower to diffused light.
	Pests.	Check the flower and the ground. If pests are found, use insecticidal or acaricidal agents together with Green Soap. If the insects are in the ground, water them, and if they are on the leaves, then spray them with ammonia solution (1 tsp per liter of water).
	Too infrequent or poor watering	Increase watering.
The leaves lose their shine and brown or light spots and scales appear on them.	Defeat by scale insects.	Clean the plant from scale insects with a solution of Green soap. Use special products (for example, Fitoverm, Fufanol). Treat 3 times, once a week. Ventilate the flower, thoroughly treat the surfaces around the pot.
Rotten root collar.	They poured water over it.	We'll have to update the flower. Break off and replant the branches in new land with drainage.
Rotting of tops and segments.	Over-fertilized.	Break off the damaged segments. Don't feed for two months. For subsequent feedings, reduce the dosage. It is better to use fertilizers for cacti.
There are small light spots on the leaves, mosaic light spots. The tips of the shoots dry out and the buds fall off.	Viral mosaic.	All damaged parts of the plant are removed. Healthy parts are transplanted into new soil; it is better to remove the pot with old soil. Treat the planted parts with antiviral (Fitolavin) and immunostimulating drugs.
Ring-shaped suberized spots on the trunk. Segments are falling off en masse. The plant wilts in wet soil. In this case, the leaves may become pale or gray. Putrid spots. Whitish coating on leaves.	Fungal infections.	Use a fungicide. Do not over-wet the soil. Remove the affected segments. If the soil is heavily contaminated (unpleasant odor), replant the flower in new soil.
Slowly moving reddish, yellow or brown “spiders” are noticeable on the plant. small size. The plant becomes covered with rust.	Infection with ticks.	Use acaricides together with Green Soap.
You notice white cotton balls on the plant.	Mealybug infestation.	Remove the scale insects with a brush. Use drugs against insect pests (for example, Aktara, Intavir).
Rotten parts on the plant, spots on the stem, reddish tint to the stem. However, these places are slippery.	Bacterial damage.	Replace the diseased plant with a new one from healthy stems or segments. Discard the old plant and treat the pot with boiling water. Spray the planted parts with an immunostimulating drug. Use Fitolavin or Metronidazole.
The segments fall off and are yellowish in color. There are no pests present.	Lack of nutrition.	Fertilize the plant.
Leaves and branches wither. At the same time, watering and conditions are normal.	Damage to the ground by gnawing insects. They can usually be found by digging a little in the soil after watering.	Treat the ground with a preparation (for example, “Thunder-2”) and (or) use Green soap. The results of the death of pests will be visible only after three days. (That is, you will no longer find them crawling in the ground). For prevention, carry out treatment after another two weeks.
The shoots and leaves turn red.	The lighting is too bright.	Move the flower to diffused light. If the shade is red-violet, there is a lack of phosphorus. In this case, spray with potassium monophosphate (a quarter teaspoon per two liters), repeat after 2 weeks.
The leaves shrank and turned red, the branches drooped at low temperatures.	Schlumberger was “frozen.”	Move the flower to more warm atmosphere. After some time he will recover.
Doesn't bloom	The pot is too spacious. Poor soil, poor lighting. Too hot or too cold. A sharp change in climatic conditions.	Transplant into a smaller pot. Feed it. Place it in a brighter place. Accordingly, if you overcooled it, then the temperature needs to be increased or lowered if it was kept in a too hot place. Avoid sudden changes in temperature and humidity. Arrange a quiet time from September to November. In November, spray with potassium monophosphate 2 times.

Pests and diseases in the photo

1. If your flower is very sick or has a whole range of diseases that you cannot even identify, then it is better to pinch off the healthy segments and replant them. Throw away the diseased flower along with the soil. Treat the pot with boiling water.
2. To strengthen a sick Decembrist, treat him with an immunostimulating drug. I use Zircon and Epin.
3. Conventional insecticides do not work against ticks. Use the ones that say they are effective against them too. There are special means - acaricides.
4. Treatment against pests must be carried out two to three times.
5. Bathing Schlumbergera in a warm shower is a good prevention of leaf pests.
6. Treat purchased land with a solution of potassium permanganate.
7. Do not confuse the lignification of your Decembrist's trunk with root rot or other diseases! The lignified trunk is dry, without wet spots.
8. Reddening of young leaves is normal; as they grow, they turn green. Leaves may also turn red during flowering due to a lack of phosphorus. Feed with fertilizer for flowering plants and spray with monopotassium phosphate (1/4 tsp per two liters).
9. Whitish soil occurs not only from fungal diseases, but also from watering with hard water. Just peel off the top layer and add a new one. For prevention, you can sprinkle a mixture of sand and ash on top and use filtered water.

Drugs for the treatment of Decembrist - table

Glyocladin (Trichodermin).	Soil beneficial fungi displace all pathogenic microflora. Prevention of fungal diseases and rot.
Gamair Rizoplan (Planriz) Alirin-B	Beneficial soil bacteria. Prevention of fungal and bacterial diseases.
Fitolavin	Bioantibiotic. Treats bacterial, viral and fungal diseases.
Akarin (Aktofit)	Biological product against ticks.
Bitoxibacillin	Against a complex of pests. Against ticks, the dose is doubled.
Fitoverm	Against a complex of pests. From ticks, scale insects, whitefish and other insects.
Nematophagin	From nematodes.
Metronidazole (Trichopol)	Antibacterial and antiprotozoal drug. Sold in a regular pharmacy. To treat plants, you need to dissolve 1 tablet in a liter of water. Acts against larvae, against blackleg.
Potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate)	Disinfectant for treating soil and pots, for spraying leaves. Use carefully, as it is also a fertilizer for plants (it contains manganese and potassium).
Aspirin	From rot on leaves.
Epin, Zircon	Immunostimulants, have an anti-stress effect
Kornevin	Root growth stimulator

Be careful when using medications! Put it on protective equipment and ventilate the room!

Take care of your Decembrist, and in winter he will bring a lot of joy to you and your loved ones!

I hope that you have learned a lot of new and useful things about this beautifully flowering cactus. Caring for it is not burdensome, and if you follow the maintenance rules, Schlumbergera will always delight you with abundant flowering!

Schlumbergera is a wonderful flower, the buds of which bloom in early December and delight us almost all winter. Thanks to this flowering period, the flower has a second name - Decembrist.

Decembrist flowers often fall into the soul and many flower growers try to possess this plant, but in order to see it bloom, you must follow certain recommendations for caring for the plant.

Caring for Decembrist after purchase

First of all, you need to make sure that the flower is healthy. To do this, it is quarantined for 2 weeks separately from other plants.

During this time, it also undergoes acclimatization in the room where it was brought.

After which, having made sure that everything is in order with the plant, it must be rid of the peat in which it grows.

To do this, select a pot 5 cm larger in diameter than the one in which it was purchased and carefully replant it from purchased soil.

When replanting, it is necessary to almost completely rid the roots of peat.

To do this, it is either soaked in warm water, if it’s summer, either gently combing the roots with a toothbrush to rid them of peat.

Having gotten rid of store-bought peat and increased the volume of soil, further care for the Decembrist will consist of:

• Watering;
• Fertilizers;
• Weekly inspections for pests.

Important! When making the first transplant, you need to carefully examine the root system so that it is not infected with fungus due to improper care.

Growing conditions

Typically, lovers of this plant can find many common species that are sold in flower shops around the country:

1. Schlumberger Bookley– this Decembrist has elongated segments hanging down. As it grows, it becomes an ampelous plant. It blooms with bright pink flowers that appear on the annual growth of leaves. Each individual flower consists of three tiers of petals and the stamens protrude quite far beyond the petals.
2. Schlumberger truncated– this species has denticles along the edge of the leaf blade, the flowers appearing at the ends of the stems are slightly tilted to the side and have different bud colors:
   • White;
   • Orange;
   • Lavender;
   • Malinova;
   • Red.

1. Gertner's Decembrist– has a large size with rather fleshy leaf blades; the length of an individual segment can be 7 cm. The color of the buds is very diverse.
2. Schlumberger Rousselian– the branches of this bush reach 75 cm in length. The leaf blades are flat and have clearly visible veins. The flowers are large with sharp edges of the petals.

Such diversity appeared thanks to the efforts of various breeders.

Actually, any type of Decembrist is an epiphytic plant that brings peace and tranquility to the house where it lives. Its homeland is considered to be the humid forests of South America, where the flower grows on broken trees or at their feet. Since summer comes in tropical forests when it is December in our latitudes, the flowering on the window behind which there is a snowstorm is very beautiful.

This plant is popularly considered to be a kind of filter for negative emotions, which is probably why it grows so well in crowded places. Or maybe there is simply no grower there who can “love” a plant almost to the point of death. After all, excessive care can have just as bad an effect on the Decembrist as its absence.

Temperature

Air temperature is an important element in growing a flower.

Depending on the time of year, the flower has different requirements for this indicator.

• September October– at this time the flower is at rest and at this time the buds are laid. The temperature is reduced to +15 degrees. But it is worth remembering that at +10 the flower can shed the small buds that appear;
• November-January– the temperature is within 18-25 degrees Celsius;
• February March– a period of rest begins before the start of the growing season and the temperature should be +15 degrees;
• March-September– the desired temperature is not higher than 30 degrees.

Important! This must be observed temperature regime, which will guarantee annual flowering.

Air humidity

Air humidity does not play a special role. And we must remember that this is a forest cactus. Therefore, warm showers and spraying are carried out only in the summer months.

Lighting

Since this is an epiphytic forest cactus, we must remember that the flower may not tolerate direct sunlight and therefore diffused light will suit it throughout the year.

There is no need to highlight it in winter, this will be a natural condition.

For good growth of shoots and the formation of flower buds for next year.

Choosing a place to put it

This is a rather unpretentious flower that can be placed on a bright windowsill without direct sunlight. IN summer period it's better to take it out open veranda, but also covering it from direct sunlight.

Important! If the windows of the apartment are oriented only to the south, then in spring and summer the flower should be covered from direct sunlight or placed deep into the apartment.

What it looks like in the interior

This is a fairly common plant and is often given as a gift during the Christmas holidays, since it is at this moment that many flowers appear on the shelves of flower shops. flowering pots with these plants.

Since in summer this flower is not very decorative, it will look good in a group of its fellows.

If there are only 1-2 representatives of the Decembrist, then it is better to place them near decorative foliage plants to create a green mass. Goes well with Diefenbachia.

The plant is suitable for various types interior, as it is universal:

• Classic;
• Modern;
• Nostalgic.

Flowering condition

In order for a flower to show itself in all its glory during flowering, it is necessary to adhere to the regime that it received when growing up in its homeland. That is, it is necessary to complete four stages of plant development depending on the time of year:

1. March-September– good vegetation on fresh air without the burning sun.
2. September-November- a period of complete rest.
3. November-January– flowering.
4. February March- a period of complete rest, but with rare watering.

Without creating dormant periods, the flower will not bloom at all.

How to care in winter after flowering

It is very important for the flower to organize a proper rest period after flowering. Therefore, we do not water the flower for 2-3 weeks.

After this period, watering begins, but very carefully, especially if the air temperature in the apartment is low.

Until the flower shows signs of growth, fertilizer should not be applied. In the spring, as soon as active growth of young segments begins, the flower can be transplanted into new soil and begin feeding it with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

In spring, you can take the plant outside if the night temperature does not drop below +10 degrees.

Transfer

If a plant from the lower drainage holes the root system has appeared, this clearly indicates that the flower urgently needs replanting.

To do this, take a container the right size and the necessary soil. The soil can be purchased at a specialized store, or you can make it yourself by taking the ingredients in equal proportions:

• Leaf soil;
• Peat;
• Sand.

All parts are mixed and kneaded so that there are no large segments. The flower is removed from the old soil and transplanted into a new substrate.

Important! After transplantation, do not water for 3 days so as not to cause rotting of the Decembrist’s root system.

Landing

1. The pot should be slightly larger than the root system of the flower;
2. Pour a layer of expanded clay onto the bottom;
3. Then we put a 3-5 cm layer of nutritious soil;
4. We place the root system of the flower on this layer and straighten the roots in different directions;
5. Fill the empty space with prepared soil
6. Lightly squeeze the soil around the bush to get rid of voids in the soil;
7. The growth point should be at the same level as before transplantation.

Important! You need to follow the sequence of recommendations and be careful with the first watering, not doing it immediately after planting.

Reproduction

Decembrist is quite easy to propagate. To do this, in the warm season, the top segments are cut. It is desirable that there are 2-3 segments. They are not cut off, but unscrewed by turning them clockwise.

With this method, they are least likely to be injured, since they are easily separated from the mother bush. Now they are dried for two days and planted in a nutritious and loose substrate.

When planting, the lower segment is buried in the ground to 1/3 of its length. For planting cuttings, plastic cups with a volume of 100 grams are best suited. The soil is poured into a third of the cup and the prepared cutting is planted.

Important! It is necessary that the soil meets the requirements and is nutritious.

Trimming

In order for the flower to look beautiful in appearance, it requires pruning, which is carried out annually in the spring.

At the beginning of March, you need to unscrew each last segment of the plant clockwise; later, two young leaves will appear in this place, and this will give the plant a lush and compact crown.

Also, flowering occurs only on young leaf cuttings.

The cuttings formed after pruning are used for propagation.

Rejuvenation

Rejuvenation is only done on heavily grown flowers older than 6 years. In order not to increase its size, the flower is taken out of the pot, 1/3 of the roots are removed and, if possible, the soil in the pot is changed. After planting, the segments are unscrewed leaving only 5-6 pieces. in height. Watering after these manipulations begins only on the 4th day.

Watering

The plant is watered as the substrate dries half the pot. This can be determined by the weight of the container with the flower itself or by touching the soil with your finger at a depth of 3 cm.

In August, watering should be reduced so that in the first 2 months of autumn the flower is not watered at all.

This, combined with the low temperature, will allow the flower to set flower buds and bloom at Christmas. It is necessary to select the watering regime so that the root system does not dry out, but is not constantly wet. We need to find the golden mean of balance.

Top dressing

Fertilizers are used depending on the phases of the plant's growing season.

In warm weather, starting from mid-April, the flower is fertilized with complex fertilizers that contain more nitrogen.

In August, you need to water the flower with potassium fertilizer, which will promote the formation of buds.

During the flowering period, from the moment the buds form, the flower is watered with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Watering regime with fertilizers 1-2 times a month.

Diseases and pests

A Decembrist can sometimes be exposed to diseases due to improper care:

• Phytophthora;
• Fusarium.

Insect pests can also appear on a flower if it is poorly cared for - a mealybug can come with a flower straight from the store. This is why quarantine and a complete transplant in the first 2 weeks after purchase are so important.

Important! If a disease or pest is detected, the flower must be set aside from the others and treated with appropriate chemicals.

How to resuscitate?

If a flower dies and the reason is not known, the first thing to do is inspect it for pests.

If they exist, they are removed using chemicals.

If they are not identified, take the flower out of the ground and inspect the roots.

Dried roots must be grown again in any convenient way. The rotting roots are cut off and what remains is treated with ash from the leafy plants.

In order for the flower to come to its senses and adapt more easily after all the manipulations, it must be treated with Zircon.

Common mistakes in care

An inexperienced gardener can sometimes make mistakes in caring for this plant.

Leaf blades wrinkle

The reason is most likely unregulated watering.

If watering is done rarely, then most likely you just need to increase the amount of water supplied to the plant or increase the frequency of watering itself.

The situation is worse if the flower has been constantly flooded or its pot does not have holes for draining excess water after watering.

In this case, the root system was most likely flooded and began to rot. In this case, the flower is re-rooted.

Redness of leaf blades

If this happened in winter, then the flower is very frozen and needs to increase the temperature of its habitat. If this is done, the flower will return to its original form and turn green.

The buds do not hold on and fall off

After the buds appear, it is strictly forbidden to turn the pot with Decembrist in relation to sun rays. If there is a need to move it into the house from the street, and there are already buds on the bush, then they put a light mark. This is done in order to place the flower indoors with the same side facing the light as it stood outside.

Decembrist has not bloomed for several years now

There can be many reasons, but the first and most likely the most important is the lack of enlightened peace. It is also important that the pot in which the flower grows is slightly too small. If you plant Schlübergera in a large-diameter pot, it will grow roots and begin to bloom only when the roots completely fill the pot.

Answers to popular questions

Gardeners who grow this plant may encounter common questions that arise as the flower misses its flowering date or grows poorly.

Why doesn't it grow well?

Poor plant growth can be caused by various reasons:

• Poor soil condition;
• Bay after flowering;
• Dying of roots;
• A small amount of watering in the summer.

To correct the situation, you need to remove the flower from the soil and inspect the root system; if it is in order, then you need to select a container according to the size of the root system and offer the flower the appropriate nutrient soil. If there are no roots, for various reasons, the flower needs to be re-rooted.

Why does it wither?

It is necessary to examine the root system; most likely it is lost and the flower is not receiving nutrition. The solution to the problem is to re-root the flower.

How often does it bloom?

Decembrist blooms every year. But this is only if he is organized proper care according to the seasons.

Useful video

Learn more about caring for the Decembrist from the video below:

Bottom line

Schlumbergera is not as difficult to care for as novice flower growers think, and therefore it is very pleasant to have a flowering bush at Christmas, because it creates a festive mood for the people around it. Even wandering around a flower shopping center, where they are sold in large quantities, creates a festive New Year's mood.

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