Standard roses - unique plants, which give the flower beds a certain height and serve as the center of the overall composition. They can be used to decorate flowerpots, as well as patios and summer flower beds.
Varieties of standard roses
Standard roses are not a specific variety of roses, but a regular type of plant that is grafted onto long stem. That is why, to create an elegant garden composition, it is recommended to plant standard and bush forms of the same variety next to each other.
Sometimes such crops are grown on an umbrella-shaped support, but experts believe that they look more beautiful without support. In any case, standard weeping roses, the lashes of which often hang down to the ground, form an incredibly chic canopy.
To create standard cascading roses, gardeners use ground cover varieties (Grouse and Nozomi). Moreover, such forms can also be obtained from shrubs that have arched powerful shoots (Ballerina and Canary Bird).
As for weeping roses, they always make an unforgettable impression when they are planted individually among the lawn.
Standard patio roses are dwarf floribunda roses growing on trunks 75 cm tall. They look great in small courtyards, at the entrance to the house and on a well-lit porch.
Roses suitable for standard
Not all varieties of such plants are equally suitable for this purpose, because in addition to lush flowering, they must have the following characteristics:
- have a symmetrical shape (weeping or compact);
- have a certain growth pattern that would allow them to artificially maintain their shape.
Classes of these plants depending on the height of the trunk
1. Weeping very high standard forms.
Grafting of such roses is done at a height of 1.5 m, using vigorous climbing roses (alaimbings, ramblers, etc.). The flexible long branches of these plants hang gracefully, creating an unforgettable decorative effect.
2. Full high boles.
IN in this case The grafted rose is placed at a height of 0.90-1 m.
For this type of trunks, floribunda, some varieties of hybrid tea roses, medium-sized Cordesia roses and other species that are best adapted to local climate conditions are used.
3. Half-standards or medium-sized standard.
The height is 70-80 cm. Small varieties of roses with spreading wide bushes are often grown on boles, but more vigorous types are also allowed.
4. Low trunks.
In this case, the crown of the rose is located at a height of 0.40-0.60 m. Such varieties of roses as polyanthus, floribunda, as well as climbing and vigorous forms of miniature plants (Orange Meyandina, Meidi, Red Cascade) are appropriate here.
As for miniature low-growing roses (Krikri Yellow, Pink Heze, Bentham), then for them you can use stems from 25-30 cm in height.
Planting a standard rose
Planting the trunk should begin in March or early May - it all depends on climatic conditions.
First, they dig big hole, which will exceed the size of an earthen lump. The planting depth must be created such that the beginning of the standard rose seedling and its root collar are in the soil from 60-70 cm. It is also necessary to create a support, which will depend on the size of the rootstock. The gap between standard plants should be left approximately 1 m from each other.
1. The bottom graft, which is made into the root collar, should be half in the soil and half above its surface. As for miniature trunks, they do not have a bottom graft.
2. If your seedling has white elongated shoots from the buds, then they should be pinched off.
3. When planting, tilt the stem slightly towards the lower graft. After placing the support, pull the stem towards it and tie it so that the seedling takes a vertical position.
4. At a distance of 2.5 cm from the trunk of the trunk, stick a support into the ground. The latter should be high enough to subsequently hold the crown.
5. Next, place wet leaves around the crown. If it is wide enough, then carefully tie the shoots together using a synthetic rope. Instead of leaves, you can use moss (sphagnum), which is excellent for such purposes.
6. Wrap the crown with burlap cloth, fix the upper part of it on the support and the lower part under the crown. Regularly moisten moss or leaves.
You should check how the plant is developing every day, slightly lifting the material. As soon as the buds begin to sprout, you can remove everything unnecessary.
The choice of support type always depends on the size of the plant. For small boles, it is enough to use a steel rod. For larger trunks, it is better to use green plastic supports. They are stuck deep into the soil so that they rise above the topmost branches.
Most simple method tying the rose to the support is electrical tape, since it is quite strong and does not cut into the trunk. When tying, it is necessary to apply the material with the adhesive side away from the trunk, and the second layer, on the contrary, towards the trunk.
The standard is fixed in two places: under the crown and at the base, 10 cm from the ground.
If the trunk grows in a windy area, the main shoots of the crown should also be tied to the support.
- The plant is pruned with a knife, pruning shears or garden saw;
- in the first year after planting, it is not recommended to prune the rose, with the exception of some damaged shoots;
- In summer, buds should be removed to allow strong stems to develop;
- in the second year, dead shoots are also removed, and pruning is done solely to maintain shape;
- starting from the 3rd year, dead shoots are removed, as well as those that grow inside the crown;
- remove all shoots that develop below the grafting site into the standard.
There are three types of trunk trimming:
1. Spring.
Usually held in spring sanitary pruning plants, which involves removing broken, frozen, thin and damaged branches, as well as those growing inside the trunk.
As for long and short pruning, it is carried out in accordance with the variety of roses. According to the second type, when the shoots are shortened, 3-6 strong, young and unbranched trunks are left. In this case, their length should be from 5-15 cm.
Long pruning involves maintaining the length of the trunk lashes. In this case, the ends are lightly cut off by 10-15 cm.
Remember that the procedure for cutting the trunk must be completed before the leaves bloom.
2. Summer.
In summer, when cutting roses into a vase or for cuttings, leave 3-4 on the stem. bottom sheets. It is also necessary to remove faded heads to prevent seed set.
3. Autumn
In the fall, the petals are usually removed, and the rose is not pruned, since the ends may become affected by disease and begin to heal poorly.
After each pruning, be sure to protect the rose crown from drying out in the wind and sun. To do this, use cotton wool, moss and leaves, which are placed inside it. They are the ones who protect young shoots from burns, thereby provoking the growth of buds. The top of the plant is wrapped in a fabric bag. Next, for 2 weeks you need to moisten the surface of the material using a spray bottle.
Please note that bud development may occur earlier, so periodically check the condition of the rose by lifting the bag. After the specified period, remove the material in the evening or on a cloudy day to accustom the plant to changing environmental conditions. If you have opened a rose stem seedling and noticed dried ends, you should definitely cut them off.
- It is recommended to water under the very foundation in the morning or evening;
- You can also mulch the watering area so that the moisture evaporates more slowly;
- in the autumn, the rose is not watered, thereby stimulating the ripening of the wood;
- Fertilizers should be applied in the spring before the leaves bloom;
- at the end of summer you should stop fertilizing the soil;
- in the fall, you can start feeding the rose with potassium fertilizers, which will help ripen the wood and prepare the plant for the cold;
- In spring and summer, standard roses must be treated as a preventive measure. chemicals(fungicides).
STANDARD ROSE WITH YOUR OWN HANDS Standard roses are obtained by budding a wrinkled rose or rose hip onto the stem. Floribunda, hybrid tea, climbing and ground cover roses. they are positioned higher than other roses in the garden and look very impressive. But the popularity of these roses in last years fell a little due to improper care.
The production of such a rose takes up to five years. Standard roses look very impressive in garden plots. The most common method of vaccination varietal roses on standard rootstock - traditional budding in a T-shaped cut. The bud (eye) with the shield is cut off with or without a small part of the wood. Our many years of experience have shown that eyes with wood removed from the shield take root better. Budding in the butt under the tongue is also used, which can be done even with weak sap flow. The success of the operation largely depends on skill. Experienced ophthalmologists have their own proven techniques. Some cut the bud from above, others from below, inserting the shield into the cut on the rootstock with a knife. It is easier to graft a standard rootstock than a bush rootstock, it is easier to choose the place of budding, and there is no contact with the soil. Therefore, the survival rate is higher. If the vaccination is unsuccessful, it can be repeated. The peculiarity is that sap flow in the upper part of the rosehip shoot ends earlier than in the root collar. AND optimal timing standard grafting under Moscow conditions: end of July - first ten days of August, that is, the beginning of the budding campaign. A week before budding, if the weather is dry, the rose hips should be watered generously. For reliability and uniform development of the crown, two grafts are made on the trunk - on opposite sides of the trunk, one 3-5 cm higher than the other. There is no need to bud 3 eyes on one trunk and no more. The height of the graft depends on the size of the rootstock and scion. Low-growing varieties with a small crown look unattractive on a tall stem and vice versa. Climbing and Semi-climbing varieties are grafted onto high boles at a height of 1.4-1.5 m. For medium boles, Hybrid Tea, Flory-bunda, and Remontant varieties are suitable; grafting at a height of 1-1.2 m (their crown will later be exactly at eye level - 1.5-1.8 m). Low trunks are grafted with low-growing varieties at a height of 0.6-0.8 m. Usually one variety is budded per standard. In principle, you can take several different colors, but it is important to carefully select scions of the same growth vigor and habit. Otherwise, one of the vaccinations will grow stronger and inhibit the others. Cuttings with eyes are prepared on the eve of budding. To do this, select faded shoots with mature wood and well-formed, but not sprouted buds. Of course, it is better to use fresh cuttings, but it is permissible to store them for up to a month, wrapped in damp cloth and film, in the lower section of the refrigerator. The best eyes for budding are taken from the middle part of the shoot. Sprouted ones also come into play if they are first cut or the sprout is broken off. Two spare buds at the base of the sprouted one will ensure further normal development of the oculant. In the nursery, the buddings are tied with polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride tape. Insulating plastic is also suitable, which is cut and rolled into strips 0.5-0.8 cm wide. Such tapes are first applied to the graft with the non-sticky side, and at the end of the operation they are turned over and glued. In the past, sponge, raffia, and even cut narrow strips of bandage were widely used. In any case, the harness is applied tightly. Many people prefer to leave the eye open, but there are also supporters of continuous tying. The results of graft survival are checked after 2 weeks (audit of oculants). A green, swollen bud and an easily falling off leaf petiole confirm successful fusion. If the eye turns black, it dies. Then, if there is sap flow, you can immediately re-graft below the stem. However, if the cortex is weakly separated, the operation is postponed until spring (in Moscow, early May). When tying with film, there is no reason to be afraid of constrictions. However, a month after vaccination it is recommended to remove it for better development peephole The grafted buds that have begun to grow in the fall are pinched.
Standard roses are pruned in the spring according to the same principle as bush roses - immediately after removing the cover, according to dormant or slightly bent buds. The purpose of the operation is to remove everything unnecessary from the crown, to give it beautiful shape, ensure abundant, full flowering. Rose growers distinguish between short and long pruning. If it is short, shoots 5-15 cm long are left (with 2-4 buds). It is used on Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Polyantha, Miniature varieties that bloom on shoots current year. With long pruning, almost the entire length is retained, only slightly, by 10-15 cm, shortening the ends. This is practiced for climbing and park roses that bloom on last year's shoots. Pruning is carried out with pruning shears using a garden saw and knife. First, all dead, damaged and broken branches are cut out of the crown, then thin and thickening ones are removed. On each trunk, 3-6 of the strongest and youngest shoots are left, preferably unbranched and extending in different directions. Sometimes, due to damage and poor wintering, it is necessary to do the shortest pruning, but this should not be feared. It is also necessary, especially on old trunks, to carefully cut out all dead stumps at the base of the crown using a saw and knife. The sections are covered with garden putty. Dead parts should not accumulate in the crown; the longevity of the plant depends on this. If agricultural practices are followed, the life expectancy of standard roses is 10 years or more. The cuts should be straight, approximately 0.5 cm above the selected bud. The bud at the top of the cut will develop the most strongly. Therefore, for the formation of the crown, it is important in which direction it is oriented. Usually they prefer an eye pointing outward, and only varieties with very spreading crowns are pruned above a bud that “looks” inside the bush.
THE MOST POPULAR VARIETIES FOR STANDARD CULTURE Hybrid Tea (HT): “Madame Delbard” (“M-te Delbard”) - velvety red; "American Pride" - dark red; "Dame de Coeur" - cherry red; "Angelique" - salmon-orange; "Dolce Vita" - salmon pink; "Promise" - silver-pink; "First Lady" - pink; "Athena" - pure white; "White Christmas" - creamy white; "Gloria Dei" (syn. "Peace") - yellow with a pink tint, "Landora" - yellow; "Susan" - ("Susan", syn. "Susan Massu") - yellow with salmon pink; "Folklore" - orange-pink with yellow; "Mainzer Fastnacht" (syn. "Blue Moon") - lilac. Grandiflora (Gr.): "The Queen Elizabeth" - pure pink, Sonia ("Sonia") - soft salmon pink. Floribunda (F.): "Iceberg" (syn. "Schneewittchen") - pure white, "Marina" - orange-red with yellow; "Centenaire de Lourdes" - soft pink. Pettiaceae (R.): "Dorothy Perkins1" - hot pink, "White Flight" - white, "Excelsa" - red. "New Dawn" - soft pink, "Sympathie" - dark red, "Schwanensee" - white with a pink center. Miniature (Min.): "Colibri" - orange-yellow, "Little Buckaroo" - bright red with a white center. #roses
Standard roses are not very common even in southern gardens, but in colder regions they are a real rarity. The reasons for this are the difficulties that rose growers encounter when caring for such plants. Let's figure it out what they are. So, standard roses, planting and care.
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Planting standard roses
Difficulties in growing standard roses
The first problem is related to shelter for the winter.. Of course, it’s good to have one that can simply be moved to a warm room during cold weather. However, most hobbyists do not have this opportunity, so they should know how to lay the trunk for the winter so as not to damage the plant. Very often, inexperienced gardeners simply break even the strongest trunks.
The second problem is external conditions. Classic rose bushes are planted by deepening the grafting and hilling the planting high. This way the shoots are in a humid environment and are not seriously affected by wind and sun rays, so the buds develop normally on them. When it comes to the trunk, the most tender part of it is always open, and hilling the bush here will clearly not be enough.
Understanding these conditions, it is necessary to draw appropriate conclusions even when planting the trunk itself.
Planting a standard rose comes down to updating the sections of the root system, pruning the crown in accordance with the requirements of the varieties grafted onto the standard and soaking the standard in water with the addition of a growth stimulant. The same as when landing, it is used wet method, filling the planting hole with water and placing the seedling in the resulting mud.
The main difference with this process is the tilt at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. It is this planting of the trunk that will help in the future to solve the problem of covering the rose during cold weather. You need to tilt the bush in the direction in which you plan to cover the trunk for the winter. The support is installed on the opposite side.
Laying place plays important role. Laying the trunk on a path or other stone covering, even partially, should not be allowed. Such roses overwinter best if their crown falls into the center of the rose garden along with neighboring plantings. Also, the standard easily tolerates winter with a slope just on the lawn.
Standard rose is located in the planting hole according to the bend at the base of the trunk, which is located above the cone. It is better to bend the plant as if in continuation of the bend, because attempts to do it in the opposite direction can lead to the death of the plant.
Despite the fact that the tension of the roots does not particularly interfere with bending the trunk, when planting it is better to straighten the root system away from the slope. In this case, the root collar deepens only 2-3 cm, and after planting the soil is compacted tightly and watered abundantly.
After watering, the stem is temporarily fixed in an inclined position. From the very beginning it should not be tied to a support. This will allow the soil to settle and the rose to begin to take root in this position. Only after two weeks can the trunk be pulled up to the support and tied in two or three places. The support must be strong, capable of withstanding the resistance of the bush.
So the only thing left to solve is the issue of protecting the trunk. Here you can use any material that retains moisture well, such as sphagnum. It is moistened in a solution of a growth stimulator and carefully wrapped around the grafting site and the lower part of the crown. From above everything is wrapped in burlap and lutrasil. The standard rose is left in this position for several weeks, during which moisture is maintained in the sphagnum lump. A similar procedure will help the plant damaged after the winter cold to recover.
Standard roses are not a type of rose or a variety, but simply an artificial form created by grafting a varietal rose onto a rose hip stem at a height of up to 2 m. The result is a tree, the root and stem of which belong to the rose hip, and the lush flowering crown belongs to the rose variety .
It takes 4 years for a standard rose to grow, which is why it costs more than a regular bush rose.
Many summer residents are still convinced that standard roses are exotic for the south. But this is far from true, because a winter-hardy variety of rose, zoned in a certain region, can be grafted onto a rosehip trunk, and the vulnerable spot of the graft can be insulated.
Advantages of standard roses
1. A standard rose tree looks very beautiful, economical, compact, and decorative.
2. Standard roses bloom profusely and for a long time.
3. Flowers of standard roses are located high - it is convenient to admire their beauty and enjoy the aroma.
4. If you graft frost-resistant rosehips onto trunks, then such roses will winter well.
5. Located high above the ground, the rose crown is well ventilated and resistant to diseases such as powdery mildew, black spot, rust.
6. A rosehip trunk with a powerful root system provides the rose with nutrition, which affects its luxurious flowering.
To create rosewood, you can use varieties that meet the following requirements:
1. The bush of the mother plant has a symmetrical compact or weeping shape.
2. The growth pattern of the shoots should allow it to maintain a compact shape as the bush grows.
Standard roses are grown by grafting on a single stem, giving a weeping shape when the branches hang freely down, as well as a compact shape, sometimes given geometric shape, which is maintained by timely pruning.
The rootstock for standard roses is usually rose hips, which are adapted to cold winters and form a strong root system.
Varieties of roses that are suitable for creating a standard rose
To create a rosewood trunk, the varieties of low-growing garden roses Grouse and Nozomi are used. For weeping forms of standard roses use climbing roses Ballerina or Canary Bird.
Low-growing, compact, standard patio roses are grown from dwarf varieties floribunda roses, which have a fairly large glass at small sizes bush and bright color of the petals. A rose tree can be grown from native plants, using regular pruning to form the crown.
The variety of standard roses offered by modern floriculture farms from domestic and foreign companies allows you to choose a rose tree suitable for planting in any garden, with a certain standard height, required flowering mode and flower color. The most famous varieties of standard roses, which are widely popular among gardeners, are:
1. Miniature rose Knirp (delicate pink flowers);
2. Classic variety “Immensee” with mother-of-pearl petals;
3. “Catherine Deneuve” (glowing apricot petals);
4. Cream flowers in the varieties “Princesse de Monaco” and “Jardins de Bagatelle”.
Selection of standard rose seedlings
1. A conscientious seller will definitely tell you which variety of roses was grafted onto which rose hips. The viability of the plant in your climatic conditions and the feasibility of spending money depend on this.
2. Correlate the height of the standard with your garden design idea. It can vary between 70-200 cm. The higher the standard, the more opportunities there are to plant other colors under such a plant.
4. Count the number of vaccinations. Perfect option- two kidneys on opposite sides. This will allow you to obtain a uniform volumetric crown. It is not recommended to purchase seedlings with one established bud.
5. Evaluate appearance seedling. The abundance of young growth at the base, the presence of buds and numerous but thin shoots - all this depletes the planting material and reduces the chances of survival. The ideal option is 3-4 strong branches in the crown in the absence of shoots and buds.
Preparation of planting material
Preparing a seedling for planting involves trimming the crown and soaking the root system in water. Pruning is carried out in accordance with the rose variety, but most often 3-5 large branches with 2-3 bud eyes are left on each. In any case, remove weak and damaged shoots, shoots, and excess leaves. Large cuts are covered with garden varnish.
Soaking is necessary if the stem and roots are dry. Depending on their condition, it will take from 2-3 to 10 hours. Damaged roots are removed, and long ones are shortened to about 20 cm.
The root system of standard roses is more powerful than that of other species, so the planting hole must be large enough. Typically its depth is 70 cm and width - 60 cm. This also takes into account the size earthen coma with roots. The larger it is, the larger the hole. If you plant seedlings in a group, then optimal distance between them - about 100 cm.
It is preferable to plant flowers in spring. At the time of planting, the soil temperature should be at least 10˚C.
Planting a standard rose
A support is driven into the planting hole to a depth of 50-60 cm. Its function can be performed by a metal or wooden rod, plastic pipe. Plants are planted at a distance of about 10 cm from this support at an angle of approximately 30-45˚. They tilt the rose in the direction in which they plan to bend it for the winter. At the same time, they take into account where the rose itself “agrees” to bend. The support, accordingly, should be on the opposite side.
When planting, the seedling must be kept at least 15 cm below the surface of the ground. All roots are carefully straightened out in the hole and covered with soil. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly.
First, the plant is allowed to settle in the ground (about two weeks) at an angle, and then it is carefully pulled up and tied to a support. Fixation is usually carried out in the middle of the trunk and near the base. When the crown becomes thicker and heavier, the garter is carried out under it - 3-4 cm below the grafting site.
To ensure that the crown also grows, use sphagnum moss moistened with water. They cover branches with buds and wrap them in burlap and lutrasil. Periodically, the crown is opened slightly, checking the level of humidity and ventilating it. As soon as the buds begin to grow, all materials are removed. Further care For a standard rose - abundant watering, proper pruning depending on the variety and a warm wintering.
Sheltering standard roses for the winter
There are 2 ways to cover standard roses:
1. Bend the stem to the ground and cover it.
In this case, the standard rose is placed on a spruce tree or on a log so that it does not come into contact with the ground.
2. Insulation of the grafting site.
The grafting site is insulated with spruce branches and the crown is covered with burlap.
Many people would like to grow roses in their flower beds, because these flowers are incredibly beautiful and will instantly transform any garden. Among them are standard roses, which have special external characteristics, for which they are loved by many gardeners. In this article we will tell you what the main differences between this species are, as well as the features of planting and care.
Strictly speaking, the standard rose is not a specific type of this plant - rather, it is the result of a special way of growing the flower. It looks like a small tree on a thin strong trunk, at the top of which there are beautiful flowers. These plants are mainly grown in decorative purposes, because with their help you can create very impressive color combinations.
Naturally, it is more difficult to grow them, and you need to care for them very carefully. For example, they survive winter much more difficult than usual. However, they bloom much earlier, and flowering lasts quite a long time. Such flowers look great in small groups, alone, and even in combination with spray roses. In the latter case, it is necessary to ensure that these varieties do not merge, but are built into a multi-tiered (2-3 tiers) structure.
The Weeping Rose looks very beautiful on a trunk - the flowers hang down a little, forming a kind of cascade of roses. In the same way, you can grow Hybrid Tea rose (a less popular option due to the difficulties in forming a bouquet), or varieties.
The rose itself on the trunk appeared as a result of combining rose hips and varietal roses. Rosehip is used as the main rootstock because it has a well-developed root system. The standard is obtained by grafting another variety of rose hips or even the Kanina rose (a fairly popular option), which also has very good root system. To obtain beautiful bouquet From the flowers, at the selected height, the selected variety of rose is grafted onto the stem, even several varieties are possible.
Planting rose bushes
A standard rose is a simple matter; it is only important to carefully follow all the instructions. First of all, it is necessary to do it correctly. It should be noted that four-year or even five-year-old seedlings are suitable for planting, so the price will be considerable. Buy them only in specialized stores from trusted suppliers and always find out what was used as a rootstock and what varieties make up the bouquet. The seedling should look strong, the wood should be free of spots and unevenness, and the root system should be developed and powerful.
When choosing a location, keep in mind that winter period you will have to cover your rose, bending it to the ground - there should be enough space for this. The plant should have enough sunlight and should also be protected from the wind. The soil should be clayey, rich in peat and humus. Best time for planting - the beginning (in principle, you can plant at the end of April), but the seedlings that you purchased in containers are planted even in the summer.
You need to prepare a large hole (larger than the container for the flower), fertilize the soil a week or two before planting, then place the seedling in the hole, carefully straighten the roots so that they are not damaged, cover it with soil and compact it. After planting the seedling, it is watered abundantly. In addition, at first it is necessary to tie the rose to a peg driven into the ground so that the plant does not break.
Also make sure that the bend of the root collar is on the opposite side of the future slope of the trunk (when you cover your beauty in the cold).
Also, after planting, you should do one more procedure: take moss or cotton wool and moisten it with water, then wrap the crown with these materials, wrap it with paper on top and put it on plastic bag. This way the rose can retain a sufficient amount of moisture until the roots finally take root in the new place. Cover the flower for ten days. Once every couple of days you should unwind it and look at the condition of the crown: if new buds begin to appear, the “mask” is removed.
Plant care
Caring for standard roses is not difficult, but you should adhere to some mandatory points:
- Watering. Plants need to be watered abundantly, but not too often. The frequency of watering depends on the type of flowers.
- Fertilizers. Until mid-summer, you can use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which accelerate the growth of shoots. In summer and autumn, the tree is fed with potassium and nitrogen supplements so that it gains strength and energy.
- Weed control. Wild shoots that appear on the trunk should be removed immediately - they weaken the plant, and when they grow, they can completely destroy it. Weeds in the tree trunk circle should also be disposed of in a timely manner.
- Prevention. In spring and autumn periods recommend carrying out preventive work, spraying the crown copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The condition of the crown is easy to observe due to the structure of the plants, so all faded flowers and dried shoots should also be removed.
- Trimming. Typically carried out in spring period. Specific actions depend on the selected variety, and the cut site must be covered with garden varnish, disinfecting the “wound.”
Reproduction methods
Such flowers cannot be propagated in the usual way - they must be specially shaped. First, the standard itself is grown - long plant with a strong stem (usually a rose hip). It is grown for 4–5 years, producing a shoot 1 cm thick, which begins to branch at a certain height (1.5–2 m).
About 40 centimeters below the top, the required variety of rose is grafted with the eye, and this can be done on both sides of the main trunk. Shoots appear from them, which are subsequently formed by pinching, and after another year the rosette will be completely formed.
Video “Proper planting of standard roses”
From this video you will learn how to properly plant standard roses.