Sticky coating on flower leaves. How to get rid of scale insects on lemon

At home, indoor plants usually do not get sick.
But infection or pests can be introduced with new cuttings or plants, soil, or when moving the plant outdoors.

As preventive measures, we can recommend:
- Mandatory quarantine for new plants, preferably in a separate room, for a period of at least 7 days. If during this time no signs of pests and diseases are found, the plant can be placed among the others.
- Mandatory washing of leaves and pots with laundry soap when bringing plants into the room after a summer stay on the balcony or in the garden.
- Keeping plants, window sills, stands clean, carefully examining the condition of green pets in order to identify signs of damage as early as possible.
- Periodic disinfection of the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate, in addition it good fertilizer, strengthens plants.
- Avoid excessive crowding of plants; in crowded conditions, plants become sick more often, and pest damage to one of the plants turns into a mass epidemic.

Try to create as much as possible favorable conditions for plant life. Plants kept in unfavorable conditions are often affected by pests, fungi and viral infections, as well as physiological diseases.

The development of pathogenic organisms is promoted by:
- incorrect light and temperature regime plant maintenance,
- air is too dry,
- insufficient or excessive watering,
- lack of nutrition or, conversely, overfeeding,
- incorrect soil composition.

Some pests only attack certain type plants, for example, cyclamen mite or palm scale. Others are capable of attacking a wide range of plants.
It is advisable not to resort to using pesticides, as they are hazardous to health. It is very important to identify the causes of plant ill health at an early stage and take appropriate measures.
Sick and infected plants must be isolated, the most damaged leaves removed (if too few leaves are left, the plant will die) and the conditions improved. Washing plants with laundry soap helps to significantly reduce the number of pests, and the soap suds can be left on the leaves.
If the number of pests is small, you can cope with them traditional methods, using herbal insecticides in the form of infusions and powders that are safe for humans and pets. Unlike chemical pesticides, preparations based on plant raw materials are toxic only during processing, and under the influence of moisture and air they decompose into harmless components. Insecticidal plants include: dope, chamomile, tansy, wormwood, onion, garlic, yarrow, tobacco, calendula, marigold. If you have your own garden, you can use healthy potato and tomato tops. A solution of laundry soap should be added to the prepared infusions, which will ensure that the composition sticks to the leaves. TO safe methods Control of insect pests includes spraying with a soap-ash solution, dusting with ash and tobacco dust. Pyrethrum powder and solution are more poisonous.
In cases of severe damage, you will have to resort to chemicals. Before purchasing, we advise you to carefully read the included instructions and choose the appropriate means to combat a particular pest. If you fight spider mites with antifungal agents, there will be no point. When choosing a drug, pay attention to its toxicity, especially if you have children or pets.
The use of sulfur preparations (colloidal sulfur and sulfaride) is relatively safe, but this is not always effective.
Organic phosphorus compounds (phosphothione, systox, ekatin, etc.) are potent poisons; even inhalation of vapors can cause poisoning. They cannot be used in an apartment.
On the packaging of imported drugs, toxicity is indicated by symbolic images:
The skull sign and the designation T+ and T- indicate that the drug is poisonous. The sign of the cross and the designation Xn and Xi are, respectively, slightly poisonous and irritating.

Among the drugs approved for use indoors, we can name products of hazard category 3:
actellik, arrivo, permethrin, karate (against sucking insects and ticks),
decis, inta-vir, fas, cypermethrin (against aphids),
fitoverm, agravertin, nurell-D (against aphids, thrips, spider mites).

You will get the greatest effect if you simultaneously treat the plant with fast and long-acting drugs, for example, Karate and Vertimek. Karate will destroy existing pests, and Vertimek will provide long-term protection, since maximum effect from its use will occur 3-7 days after treatment.
When pollinating plants with pesticides, precautions must be taken: remove food from the room, send children for a walk with the dog, open the window, put on a robe, latex gloves, gauze bandage. Dishes used for preparing solutions of toxic chemicals cannot be used for other purposes. After treatment, you should thoroughly wash your hands and face.
Treated plants should not be placed in the sun until they are dry to avoid burning the leaves. After treatment, plants should be cared for as usual: water, spray with water, wash off dust from leaves, etc.
Next we will give short description major pests and diseases indoor plants, as well as measures to combat them.

PLIERS.

Dry air and heat- favorable conditions for the development of mites. They reproduce very quickly; only 7 days pass from laying eggs to the emergence of an adult. Mites damage many houseplants throughout the year, but are especially common in early spring. Mites bite into the skin of the stem, damaging it, leaving uneven grayish or yellowish spots. As a result of damage, the skin of the stems and leaves becomes dead and cracks. The plant develops poorly. Due to its small size, it is difficult to detect in a timely manner. In the later stages of the lesion, a cobweb is visible on the plant, along which small dots move - these are mites. In addition to the described red and spider mites, other types of herbivorous mites can also attack plants. Control measures for all types of ticks are similar.

Flat red tick
Do not confuse it with the red spider, which does not form a web, which eats mites and their larvae.
The mite, 0.25 mm in size, brownish-reddish in color, is the most dangerous pest of cacti. It also affects aucuba, citrus and other plants.

Spider mite.
One of the most difficult pests to eradicate indoor plants. The mite is 0.3-0.5 mm in size, oval body, whitish-yellow in color. It most often lives on the underside of leaves, but with severe infection it also settles on the green parts of the stem, where it lays eggs. At the very beginning of the lesion, small yellowish spots appear on the leaves, later turning brown. Leaves damaged by it become like marble, become covered with a thin cobweb, turn yellow and fall off prematurely.
For prevention in summer, you need to frequently spray the plants with water to prevent dry air.

Control measures:
To remove the pest, wash the leaf surface warm water with laundry soap. This event greatly reduces the number of insects, although it does not completely destroy them. Often the mite remains in cracks and crevices window frames, from where it can attack the plants again, so when treating plants, do not forget about the space around them.
If you have an ultraviolet lamp, you can irradiate your plants with it. Sessions of 1.5-2 minutes once a week greatly reduce the number of mites and increase plant resistance to many diseases. Try to ensure that the rays illuminate the lower surface of the leaves, where the mite is most often found.
Next, use one of the following methods.

After spraying the plants with water, dust them with pyrethrum powder or ground sulfur (colloidal sulfur and sulfaride), as well as washing or spraying with onion or garlic infusion or onion peel infusion.
Spray the plants five times with an interval of 7 days with pyrethrum diluted in water (2-3 g per 1 liter of water).
A decoction of cyclamen tubers helps to cope with spider mites after 1-2 sprayings.
Treating the leaves with undiluted medical (96%) alcohol from a fine spray or wiping with a swab dipped in alcohol is a radical means of control, which, however, is more suitable for plants with dense, leathery leaves (rose, monstera, palm trees). It is important to briefly wet the entire surface of the leaves so that the alcohol evaporates quickly without causing the leaves to burn. The method is contraindicated for pubescent plants, since evaporation from them occurs more slowly than from smooth leaves, which causes burns. For plants that have a waxy coating or waxy epidermis (cacti, succulents), treatment with alcohol can only be done locally. small areas. In any case, you must first check on several leaves how the plant will survive the operation. Alcohol treatment is also easy to destroy mites located in cracks and cracks of the window.
Chemical preparations for tick control include metaldehyde, thiophos, Aktelik, Neoron, Nurell-D, Fitoverm. The latter is based on natural substances and is therefore safer. Metaphos and phosphamide are toxic, so they are used only as a last resort. Ticks can adapt to chemicals, so it is better to use different ones, alternating them.
Since ticks are very serious pests, you have to fight them regularly and with all available means. You can rejoice at your first victory, but don’t rest on your laurels. Carefully inspect the plants to see if the pest has reappeared. Even if it is not visible after the first treatment, do another one a week later for prevention.
Cyclamen mite
affects cyclamens, balsams, pelargoniums and gloxinias. This is a monophagous pest, i.e. it does not attack other plant species. It is impossible to see individual insects with the naked eye. A large cluster of mites appears as a layer of dust on the underside of a leaf. Unlike spider mite, this pest prefers to live in humid conditions. Symptoms of damage to the above plants are slow growth, wilting of buds, curling of leaf edges, and twisting of stems.
Control measures: Remove damaged leaves. Use chemical acaricides.

Prevention
Care, consisting of timely ventilation and choosing a place that is not too warm and sufficiently bright, promotes the development of healthy shoots that are less susceptible to attack by aphids and are not conducive to their rapid development. Overfed and having little fresh air plants form weak shoots - soil for the rapid development of aphids. Keep it clean, remove all dried leaves on which young insects often sit.

Control measures
Aphids are a nuisance but eradicable pest. Notice several flying into the room small insects difficult, but if you are attentive to your pets, you should find the first brood. In this case, it is enough to simply crush them with your fingers and, for prevention, wash all the plants with laundry soap.
When the aphids are already hanging on the plant in clusters, you will have to fight them. Isolate affected plants from healthy ones and wash them with soapy water or brush them to remove most of the pests. When cleaning, you need to remove all the ties, scrape the pegs to which the plants were tied, because a lot of eggs are hidden in all the cracks and corners.
If young stems and leaves are completely covered with aphids, then it is best to cut them off completely and destroy them along with the insects, especially since especially severely affected branches, no matter how thoroughly you clean them, usually dry out.
After this, treat them with one of the following preparations 3-4 times with an interval of 5-6 days.

Spraying with infusion of tobacco, wormwood, dandelion, onion, yarrow, sophora, tansy or marigold.
Spraying with soap and ash solution.
Washing infected plants with a solution of green potassium soap (20 g per 1 liter of water), after covering the ground with a plastic bag.
Treatment with pyrethrum diluted in water (2 g per 1 liter of water).
Pollination with pyrethrum, wood ash, tobacco dust or sulfur.
Use of chemical preparations based on pyrethroids: Inta-vir, Cypermethrin, Karate, Fas, Decis, Hostakvik, etc. in accordance with the instructions. These drugs are non-volatile and have low toxicity.
Aphids are sensitive to most poisons that are used to protect plants from insects, for example, Actellik or Fitoverm.
As a last resort, you can use pirimor (a very strong aphicide), as it is highly toxic.
Aphids get used to the chemicals used against them, so each product can be used 3-4 times during the spring-summer season.

WOOGS, MITES.

Mealybug (hairy aphid)
A sucking insect measuring 3.5-5 mm. This is one of the most dangerous aphids for our indoor and greenhouse plants. It settles mainly in leaf axils, forms clusters on young shoots, and in case of more serious damage - on the leaves of plants.
The body of the wingless female is flesh-colored, elongated-oval, with outgrowths and long bristles along the edges, covered with a white powdery coating. A winged insect has one pair of wings. Female mealybugs lay up to 2000 eggs in white cotton wool-like fluffy secretions on the underside and in the axils of leaves, along the veins. They can secrete a sticky liquid - honeydew, on which a sooty fungus develops, polluting plants. Eggs protected by down are not afraid of water. The larvae spread throughout the plant and can settle at the root collar and even on the roots. Insects remain mobile throughout their lives.
Damaged plants become covered with a white cobwebby coating. By sucking the juices of young shoots, leaves, and buds, scale insects greatly retard plant growth.
Amaryllis, azaleas, asparagus, cacti, lemons, palm trees, fuchsias and some other plants are affected.

Prevention:
Keep it clean, remove all dried leaves. Plants that regularly wash their leaves are rarely affected by scale insects.

Control measures:
Mild defeat is not difficult to cope with. Using a soft brush or cotton swab dipped in soapy water, clean the plant from bugs and the white cotton-like secretions they form, and then spray three times with an interval of 7-10 days with a solution of green soap (10-15 g per 1 liter of water), tobacco infusion , infusion of garlic or decoction of cyclamen.
Alcohol treatment (see spider mites) or treatment with a pharmacy tincture of calendula gives a good effect.
In case of severe damage, in addition to manual destruction, spray at intervals of 7 days with one of the following preparations: thiophos, Actelik, Vertimek, Nurell-D, Fozalon, Fitoverm, phosphamide, metaphos (highly toxic).
You may have to try several different drugs and choose the one that works best.

Prevention:
In spring and autumn, 3-4 waterings with an interval of two weeks with insecticide solutions.

Control measures:
At an early stage of damage, the plant can still be saved. If you suspect a root aphid attack, the plant should be removed from the pot and the roots examined. If a pest is detected, it is necessary to wash the roots and cut off damaged roots. If there are a lot of them, prune the plant's crown to compensate for root loss. Destroy the soil, disinfect the pot or throw it away. Washed roots
Immerse in an insecticide solution for 10 minutes, dry and plant in fresh soil.

Mite or earwig
This is a well-known insect of the order Leatheroptera with a dark brown body, stands close to grasshoppers, but differs from true grasshoppers in that it has three equal pairs of legs. At the end of the rear part of the body, the mite has movable pincers (pincer-shaped cerci). It is called an earwig because of the belief that a mite crawls into the ears of sleeping people.
During the day the insect hides, and at night it eats leaves and flower petals, leaving holes on them.

Control measures:
Insects are caught manually by looking under leaves and shaking off flowers, or using thinly rolled tubes of strong paper, hollowed out sticks, etc., which are placed on pots. The mite hides in such shelters in the morning and can be destroyed.

SCALPES AND FALSE SCREENS.

Brown or light round scales sometimes appear on plant leaves, which are difficult to separate from the leaf. This is the adult stage dangerous pest indoor plants - scale insects.
Shield aphid- an insect measuring 1.5-4 mm. The body is dense, covered with a shield - a waxy shell, which makes it invulnerable to chemicals. Winged males have one pair of wings.
False scale insects differ from true scale insects in that they do not have a waxy shell, and the eggs and larvae are protected by the drying skin of the dying female.

The types of scale insects are very diverse, they differ in color and size:

Ivy scale- body, separated from the scutellum, ovoid, yellow, scutellum grayish-white, about 3 mm, round.
Oleander scale insect- the body is pale yellow, the scutellum is flat, rounded, at first it is whitish, then yellow and grows simultaneously with the insect until it reaches a diameter of 2.5 mm. The male is brownish-yellow, covered with a thin white coating.
Pink scale insect- male pale red, covered. The female is ovoid, flat, yellow, with a round, flat, convex shield only in the middle.
Cactus scale- orange male. The female is pale yellow, the scutellum is rounded, yellow, approximately 2 mm.
Bay scale- male pale cherry. The female is white or pale cherry, with a rounded brown shield in the form of a shell, having a red-yellow elevation in front and concentric rings and ledges.
Palm scale- male is pale yellow. The larva is linear, white and fluffy. The female is pale yellow, with a round, flat, white shield, no more than 2.5 mm.
Soft scale insect- the body is broadly oval, asymmetrical, brownish-brown in color, with unclear punctures on the back.
Most species of scale insects reproduce by laying eggs, but there are also viviparous species.
Pests live on the underside and top of leaves, shoots and trunks of plants. Only young larvae settle, sticking to various parts of the plant; adult insects are motionless.
With severe infection, the leaves along the veins and plant trunks become covered with a coating formed from a large accumulation of scale insects. Damaged plants have stunted growth and development, leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely.
Scale insects and false scale insects secrete a sticky liquid - honeydew, on which a sooty fungus settles, which further impairs the development of plants.
Scale insects and false scale insects damage many indoor plants: palm trees, citrus fruits, oleander, ivy, cyperus, asparagus, aucuba and others.
Prevention:
Regular inspection of plant leaves, especially from below.

Control measures:
If detected at an early stage, it is better to remove the damaged leaf or shoot.
In case of more severe damage to the pests, it is necessary to remove them from the plant with a soft brush or a cotton swab moistened with soapy water or anabasine sulfate solution, or even better with alcohol (for alcohol treatment, see the article Mites). Remains of shields and dust must be washed off with a brush or swab and a weak solution of vinegar.
To destroy the remaining larvae, you can apply three times
(within 2 weeks) spraying with a solution of green potassium soap
(20-30 g per 1 liter of water) or spraying with garlic infusion.
There are no specialized chemical insecticides to combat scale insects, so choose an insecticide with the widest spectrum of action, for example, Actellik, Arrivo, Fitoverm, permethrin, fufanon.

THRIPS, WHITEFLY, SCIARIDS.

Greenhouse thrips (vesicle)
The insect is 1-2.5 mm in size. The body is oblong, black or dark brown with two pairs of wings with ciliated hairs. The larvae are white at first, and when the wings appear, they are light yellow, and have a transparent bubble on the back of the body. Externally, mobile larvae are similar to adult insects. Full development of insects occurs in 25-30 days.
Thrips live in groups on the undersides of leaves, especially along the veins. Eggs are laid in leaf tissue. On damaged leaves, brownish-brown spots appear on the lower side and whitish spots on the upper side. With severe infection, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off. It causes the greatest damage in summer, in hot weather.
Thrips is a polyphagous plant; it damages palm trees, dracaenas, cordylines, aspidistras, azaleas, cacti, ficus, roses, begonias, citrus fruits and many other indoor plants.

Prevention:
In summer, you need to frequently spray the plants with water to prevent dry air.

Control measures:
To remove the pest, wash the surface of the leaves with warm water and laundry soap. This event greatly reduces the number of insects, although it does not completely destroy them.
Next, one of the following means is used.

Herbal preparations:
- spraying plants twice every 7-10 days with pyrethrum diluted in water (2 g per 1 liter of water),
- spraying with infusion of yarrow and tobacco,
- spraying with infusion of Persian chamomile and green soap,
- spraying with a decoction of cyclamen tubers.

Chemicals:
- after spraying the plants with water, dust them with pyrethrum powder or ground sulfur (colloidal sulfur, sulfaride),
- spraying three times with the following mixture: 2g nicotine sulfate or anabasine sulfate and 4g soap per 1 liter of water, then pollinate with pyrethrum,
- Vertimek, Nurell-D (slightly toxic)

Whitefly
These small flying insects, up to 3mm in size, look like small white moths. The body is yellowish, 2 pairs of wings are covered with a white dusty coating. They are usually found on the underside of the leaf. The larvae are oblong-oval in shape and pale green in color. Pest eggs can be found in the form of small grayish grains on the leaves.
Larvae and adult insects suck the juice from the leaves and leave a sugary secretion on which a sooty fungus develops, polluting the plants. Damaged leaves become covered with whitish spots, turn yellow and fall off. Whitefly infestation has a depressing effect on the plant. In addition, the whitefly is a carrier viral diseases. It multiplies quickly. Fortunately for hobbyists, the insect is more often found in greenhouses and greenhouses than in rooms.
Severely damages fuchsias, pelergoniums, begonias, balsams, and also affects other indoor plants with soft leaves, especially in summer.

Control measures:
It is difficult to fight whiteflies, but it is possible. The number of adult moths can be reduced by hanging flypaper or other yellow sticky tape near the plants. Eggs and larvae should be washed off the leaves regularly.
You can spray the underside of the leaves 3-5 times at intervals of 6-7 days with a solution of green soap (10-15 g per 1 liter of water).
From herbal remedies Garlic infusion helps.
If this does not help, spray the leaves every three days with permethrin-containing preparations.
You may need to try several remedies.

Sciarids (fruit gnats)
Black insects 3-5mm long, similar to small flies, laying eggs in humus or decomposed organic matter. Usually these insects enter the house along with the soil, where they develop in the form of larvae, similar to white worms 6-7 mm long. Their appearance is associated with excess humidity soil and using a substrate rich in organic matter.
Do not harm healthy adult plants. Sciarid larvae eat seedlings, tender roots of seedlings, and thin roots of weakened plants. Damaged areas can become a source of rot.

Prevention:
Proper watering of plants, avoid unnecessary waterlogging of the soil.
Careful use organic fertilizers. For sowing, use a peat-sand substrate that does not contain humus.
Control measures:
Adult insects can be caught using flypaper or other yellow sticky tape.
Water the soil with a solution of an insecticide, for example Inta-vir. The roots of some plants react poorly to the fillers contained in the preparations. In these cases, you need to limit yourself to spraying the plants and soil surface. Spraying the soil will also help get rid of adult insects.

WORMS, NEMATODES, FURS.

Earthworms
They do not cause harm to the plants themselves, but by making moves, they compact the soil in the lower part of the pot and often clog the drainage holes, which causes stagnation of water, acidification of the soil and rotting of the plant roots. The presence of worms in a pot can be detected by the appearance of small earthen lumps on the surface of the soil.

Control measures:
Place the pot in water heated to a temperature of 50° and hold for 15-20 minutes. You can also water the plants with a weak pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Collect and destroy worms crawling to the surface.

Root-knot nematodes invade the roots, causing thickenings on the roots with their secretions - galls, in which the worms live and reproduce. When the gall is destroyed, the eggs fall into the soil, from where the larvae spread further.
Nematodes with free formation of cysts penetrate the roots and destroy their membrane. After fertilization, the female's body turns into a cyst (a reservoir of eggs) Brown hanging from outside root The cyst can remain in the soil for years, waiting for favorable conditions.
Free nematodes do not attach to the roots in one place, but crawl from place to place.
Affected plants wither and die from lack of nutrients as a result of the death of damaged roots. Warmth and dampness promote rapid reproduction of nematodes.
They damage many species of tropical and subtropical plants.
Prevention:
Quarantine for new plants. Disinfection of dishes and tools (the simplest measure is scalding with boiling water). Sterilize the substrate in a water bath at a temperature of +50-55C for at least 10 minutes.
You can neutralize the soil with chloropicrin (20-40 ml per 1 sq. m), formaldehyde or carbon disulfide.
Control measures:
There are no radical measures to combat the nematode. Heavily infected plants are destroyed along with the soil. If the lesion is detected at an early stage, you can try to save the plant first mechanically.
When replanting, remove all damaged roots. If there are a lot of them, it is better to remove everything and re-root the plant in fresh substrate. After cutting the roots, treat the root collar hot water(not higher than +70C).
Since nematodes are sensitive to heat, a water bath for
20 minutes at a temperature of +45-50C, which can be tolerated by the roots of many plants.
Anthelmintic drugs can also be used against nematodes. medications, for example, Dekaris. 1 tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water and the plant is watered well several times.

Springtails, or springtails
Small jumping wingless insects white, 1-2 mm in size. Appear and reproduce in large quantities with frequent excessive watering. They develop in the soil, feed on plant debris and small plant roots. With strong reproduction, they may appear at the bottom of the pot near the drainage hole or on the surface of the soil in the form of a white mass.
They do not cause much harm, but their appearance indicates an urgent need to reduce watering to prevent acidification of the soil and rotting of the roots.

Prevention:
To prevent the appearance of dura, moderate watering is necessary.
Control measures:
If pests appear, carefully remove upper layer soil by 2-3 cm and sprinkle the soil with dry sand. Sprinkling the soil with tobacco dust helps.

Scale insects or shield aphids are the most common pest in citrus plants. The sucking insect, depending on the species, has sizes from 1 to 5 mm. To protect against external influence their body is covered with a wax shield. In insects belonging to the suborder Coccidae, male and female individuals differ significantly. Males are smaller than females, they have one pair of wings and normally developed limbs. Their scutes are flat and elongated, their mouthparts are poorly developed.

Scale insects: adults and larvae

Females are noticeably larger, but are completely devoid of limbs (in some cases, even vision). The lemon scale sticks to the plant and leads a sedentary lifestyle. The purpose of the female is procreation; to protect her and her offspring, the scale insect is endowed with a powerful rounded shell. The male finds a mating partner by moving around the plant. After the female is fertilized, they die.

Pests reproduce by eggs; viviparous species are less common. The insects are very prolific and quickly colonize the plant. Active larvae emerge from the eggs. They move around lemon tree until they find it comfortable spot to suck on. Females remain motionless forever. Females live for several months, during which time they lay up to 100 eggs. After several molts, a shell of skins and a wax segment appears on the back of the insects.

Information. The false scale insect, a pest very similar to the scale insect, settles on plants. They differ in several ways: larger size (up to 7 mm), the shell is easily separated from the insect, and pseudoscale insects do not secrete a sweet secretion.

Pest on leaves

How dangerous are scale insects?

Shield aphids spread throughout the plant:

lower and upper parts of leaves;
trunk;
young shoots.

Adults and larvae suck cell sap from the plant. They do not hibernate, being active all year round. A tree damaged by them slows down its growth, its leaves turn yellow and fall off. Behind the leaves, the trunk begins to dry out, because it also serves as food for an ever-increasing population of pests. Having noticed the listed symptoms, you must immediately begin to treat the lemon scale insect. In addition to the damage caused by insects personally. They cause fungal infection of the plant. Scale insects secrete a sticky substance on their leaves, this substance is favorable environment for the development of sooty fungus.

Information. Sooty fungus affects plants with weakened immunity; it clogs cells, preventing respiration, and interfering with photosynthesis. The leaves of the affected plant die completely.

Signs of defeat

The cause of plant disease can be various pests; to determine their type, it is necessary to examine the leaves and trunk of the lemon. At the initial stage of the attack, the small insect manages to hide well from human eyes. Small larvae are difficult to see, but adults are clearly visible. They appear as brown or brown tubercles along the veins of the leaves, on the trunks. These accumulations look like a brown waxy coating. Also noticeable is the sticky secretion that the shield aphid leaves on the leaves.

Information. Infection indoor lemon scale insects occur through the soil with larvae, it is possible to purchase a diseased tree. The source of the pest can be purchased bouquets, fruits, and other indoor flowers.

Pest control methods

It is quite difficult to destroy scale insects on indoor lemons due to their durable shell. It serves as a shield for the pest from chemicals and other harmful substances. But with persistence and using different means complete destruction of insects can be achieved.

Mechanical method

The shell of an adult does not allow insecticides to penetrate the insect's body. To remove them from lemon, you should use a mechanical method. To do this you will need:

alcohol or alcohol-containing product;
cotton swab or toothbrush.

A cotton swab is moistened with alcohol, and then all places where a cluster of scale insects is noticed are wiped. If insects are difficult to remove, you can use a toothbrush. You should carefully examine the leaves on both sides, ovaries and stems. Scale insects on lemon, as can be seen in the photo, settle in large numbers, so do the work carefully.

Scale insects look like microscopic turtles

Chemicals

A pest that multiplies quickly like scale insects cannot be dealt with without chemicals.

Information. Chemicals They destroy the scale insect only at the larval stage. Treatment is carried out twice, with an interval of 10 days.

Among effective means:

Folk remedies

Chemicals are often used with caution, especially for indoor plants. A lot of positive feedback From flower growers and gardeners, a composition of soap and kerosene was used. A soap film covers the plant, preventing air access to the insect, and kerosene, flowing under the shell, poisons the scale insect. To prepare the composition you will need the following ingredients:

1 liter of water;
50 g laundry soap;
50 ml kerosene.

Advice. Before mixing, rub the soap on a fine grater, so it will dissolve in water faster.

Preparation of solution for spraying

All components are combined in one container and mixed thoroughly until the soap dissolves. Ready-made composition treat the entire lemon for scale insects. The solution is left on the plant for 2-3 hours, then washed off clean water. A pot of indoor lemon can be taken into the bathroom and washed well in the shower.

For processing, tinctures of garlic, onion and pepper are used. They are prepared according to a similar recipe: 50 g of a vegetable (onion with peel, pepper or garlic) is crushed and filled with 0.5 liters of water. Infuses for 14-15 hours. The composition is wiped on leaves and branches. Folk recipes effective in combination with mechanical removal insects

Preventive measures

To prevent lemon damage from pests, you should follow simple measures prevention:

Trim damaged branches and weak shoots in a timely manner. attracting pests;
send recently purchased plants to quarantine;
keep the soil in the pot clean;
regularly ventilate the room, ensure sufficient humidity levels;
Every week, wipe the leaves of the plant on both sides with a damp cloth, this will get rid of dust and pests.

The fight against scale insects must be comprehensive; this is the only way to completely get rid of insects on homemade lemon. Compliance with preventive rules will prevent the plant from becoming infected with dangerous pests.

All amateur gardeners are faced with the fact that their indoor plants suddenly begin to lose leaves, bloom worse, and sometimes die. This happens even with proper care, because pests or infections often come from outside. There is only one way out - you need to quickly make a correct diagnosis and begin treating the plant.

Whitefly

It is very easy to bring whiteflies into your home, but getting them out is much more difficult. It happens that an insect gets in with a purchased plant. So, one day I was “lucky” to purchase flower shop(pelargonium), packed in bright foil. When I took off the packaging at home, a white cloud of small insects rose into the air. They instantly scattered around the rooms and, to my horror, took a liking to hibiscus, cyphomandra, pelargonium, pachystachys, balsam and many other plants. The whitefly overwintered safely in the house and became noticeably more active in the spring, settling on tomato and eggplant seedlings. The whitefly is often brought on clothes and with a bouquet of flowers. In autumn, the whitefly enters the living room with garden flowers and vegetables, which are transplanted into flower pots. Most often with petunia, fuchsia and low-growing varieties of nightshades.

The greenhouse whitefly is a small (up to 1.5 mm long) white butterfly. It sucks sap from plants and carries dangerous viruses. In addition, the insect secretes a sweetish honeydew, on which a sooty fungus settles. Whiteflies reproduce quickly. She lays eggs more often on the underside of the leaf. If the number of butterflies is small, they can be destroyed manually. It's easier to do this with wet fingers. The number of whiteflies is contained by strips of bright yellow sticky paper. Packages with such Velcro are sold in many stores. The whitefly flies joyfully towards yellow color and instantly finds itself tightly stuck to the records. Any spraying is effective only with repeated treatments with an interval of 5–14 days, since new pests regularly “hatch” from laid eggs. Insecticides such as Actellik, Confidor Extra and Citcor also help. Spraying with a three-day infusion of yarrow flowers and herbs, which are poured with boiling water, helps. Green or laundry soap is added to the solution. Any chemical and biological preparations in indoors must be used with caution.

Spider mite (mite)

In spider mites, not only the adults are dangerous, but also the larvae. Often leaves indoor roses, palm trees, lemons, oleanders, hydrangeas and many other indoor plants are covered in cobwebs with tiny moving dots. Affected leaves quickly dry out and fall off. This indicates that a spider mite has appeared on the plant. In warm, dry air it multiplies quickly. Even some cacti suffer from this pest. Ticks and their larvae are always hungry, and they feed on plant sap. The insect is difficult to notice due to its microscopic size (0.3 - 0.4 mm long). Typically, the mite settles on the underside of a leaf or a fork between branches.

You can get rid of spider mites different ways. Sometimes moistening the plant with water from a spray bottle or shower is enough. There are more reliable way: cover the soil in the pot plastic film and thoroughly wash off the pest with a sponge soaked in a soap solution. Sometimes, for preventive purposes, garlic cloves are placed on the surface of the soil of the pot or the affected plant is sprayed with an infusion of crushed garlic. To do this, pour 100 g of chopped garlic into 2 - 3 glasses of water and leave for several days in a warm place. dark place, then the infusion is filtered. The concentrate is used only in diluted form (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water). Soap is added for stickiness. A daily infusion of Datura or an infusion of potato tops also helps. Take 1 kg of green tops (or 500 g dry), 1 liter of water, infuse, filter and spray the leaves of the plant. An alcohol solution of pyrethrum diluted in water is also effective. Before spraying, add soap foam to it. Treatments are carried out several times in a row until the pest is completely destroyed. I often use vodka diluted with water or a weak solution of dishwashing liquid to treat plants. I spray or wipe the twigs and leaves with cotton swabs soaked in these liquids. In case of mass damage, you can use specially developed products: Acaricide, Fitoverm and Karbofos. It is better to process them outdoors.

Scale insect and false scale insect

Scale insects and false scale insects usually end up on uninfected plants with those on which they settled before. The pest can be seen on palm trees, lemons, ivy, oleander, ficus and many other indoor plants. More or less convex tubercles of different shades of brown, pale yellow or brown appear on the leaves and stems. These scutes belong to immobile adult insects. Those “nimble” larvae that have not yet attached to the plant and have not acquired a shield are called wanderers. Sweet sticky secretions accumulate on the leaves and trunks, on which sooty fungus often settles.

The best prevention is frequent moistening of the leaves and stems. In small quantities, scale insects can be destroyed mechanically. For example, wipe the leaves with a wet cotton swab or sponge. In order to finally cope with the pest, it will take time and patience, since you will have to get rid of several generations of scale insects. Systemic preparations are sold: actara, arrivo, fufanon, etc. I was able to completely remove the scale insect by spraying the plants affected by it with highly diluted universal remedy for cleaning surfaces (“L.O.C.”, Amwey). Some other household products intended for washing dishes are also effective (Fairy “Wild berries”). It also helped tar soap. From these “unconventional” means, the scale insect’s shell soon shrunk and fell off. The plants tolerated all my experiments in the best possible way. Glitter for the leaves of indoor plants works well at preventing pests (unfortunately, only for a while). It is sold in all stores.

Mealybugs

Mealybugs can be easily identified by their cotton-like discharge. They can appear on the most different plants: camellias, clivias, crassula, milkweed, gasteria, cacti, etc. Sucking insects affect not only leaves, but also young shoots, buds and flowers. They get into the axils of leaves, into cracks in the bark, and even settle on the root collar and roots (root bugs). The body of female mealybugs is covered with a white powdery coating. Damaged plants are stunted in growth, as insects suck the juices out of them and release toxic substances. When a pest appears, it is important to destroy not only adult scale insects, but also their eggs. Several years ago, I got rid of a mealybug that had settled on a succulent by removing it with a cotton swab wrapped around a toothpick, which I soaked in diluted vodka.

Nematode

It is difficult to fight nematodes, which is why it is so important to disinfect the soil. Tiny white thread-like sucking worms live in the roots of plants. Soon root growths appear, similar to nodules and knobs. Living tissues degenerate, rot and die. The plant weakens, since the nutrients are supplied not to it, but to the nematode. In warm and humid conditions, the pest a short time destroys the entire root system. Begonias, asparagus, fatsias, lilies, ficuses, philodendrons and many other plants most often suffer from nematodes.

The nematode should not get into flower pot, for this purpose, for preventive purposes, before planting plants, it is worth disinfecting the soil mixture. Dying plants and contaminated soil from a flower pot must be destroyed; they cannot be thrown into a humus heap, as this will contribute to the proliferation of nematodes throughout the entire area. The emptied pots are thoroughly washed with soap or boiling water is poured over their bottom and walls. There are natural defenders against nematodes. These are calendula and marigolds. They can be grown in separate flower pots that are placed next to indoor plants. At the first suspicion, sprinkle the soil surface with a crushed mixture of dried marigold and calendula flowers and leaves. They also recommend this method: hold the pot with contaminated soil in water heated to 50? C for an hour. But such a bold option is suitable for few plants (ficus and philodendrons). It can seriously harm other plants.

Thrips

Thrips suck the juices from the leaves of palm trees, dracaenas, citrus fruits, indoor roses, ficuses, etc. This pest can be seen by characteristic feature: the leaves become discolored or acquire a silvery tint, and numerous dots appear along their edges - traces of punctures from the proboscis of insects. On the underside of the leaves of palm trees, anthuriums, cyclamens and orchids you can see insect secretions - shiny black drops. On the underside of Saintpaulia leaves ( indoor violets) thrips are identified by brownish depressions.

Thrips – winged insects dark brown in color, about 1 mm long, which are comfortable in the warm and dry air of rooms. They multiply quickly. The insect emerges from the egg after 20–23 days. Thrips and their larvae not only suck the juice from flowers and leaves, but also transmit viruses. These insects often land on indoor plants with contaminated soil. You can fight thrips in different ways. They are washed off from dense leaves with water and dishwashing detergent. Classic folk remedy considered a daily infusion of tobacco (40 g of leaves per 1 liter of water) or a decoction of shag (400 g infused for 24 hours in 10 liters of water, then boiled for 2 hours, filtered, added soap and diluted with water). You can infuse yarrow and celandine. In case of severe thrips infestation, plants are sprayed with citcor or confidor. Thrips are repelled by mothballs, a bag of which is placed next to the flower pot. All treatments must be repeated several times with an interval of 8 days. Modern systemic drugs help cope with the pest. They are used in spring and summer, when they are actively transported with plant sap along the stems and leaves. During plant dormancy, systemic drugs do not work.

Rust

Rust is a disease caused by a fungus that produces round yellow spots with bright brown dots. The spots quickly grow and cover the entire surface of the leaf. Rusty-yellow spore pads are visible on the underside of the leaf. When air humidity is high, fungal spores infect neighboring plants. Pelargoniums, fuchsias, chrysanthemums, cineraria and other plants suffer. Before treating plants, you need to make sure that there are no signs of sunburn. When the first signs of rust appear, stop spraying with water. The affected leaves are cut off, placed in tight bags, and then burned. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, copper oxychloride (CHOM), Topaz helps.

Powdery mildew (PMP)

Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus that produces a white, abrasive coating on leaves and stems. The affected plant is depressed, blooms poorly, and its leaves dry out. Powdery mildew can cause plant death. The fungus spreads quickly when unfavorable conditions: insufficient lighting (especially in autumn and winter), high humidity and poor air ventilation. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers in high concentrations also lead to the appearance of powdery mildew. During illness, plants should not be sprayed with water. Indoor plants (begonias, etc.) and garden flowers (petunias, fragrant tobacco, hydrangeas, etc.) brought into a warm room in the fall suffer from it.

Saving plants from powdery mildew should begin immediately when the first signs of the disease appear. There are many treatment options. Sometimes spraying with an aqueous solution of soda helps (1 teaspoon of soda per 1 liter of water). Traditionally, spraying with slurry is considered the best “cure”. In order to prepare an infusion, take well-rotted manure (or rotted leaves, rotted hay, hay, hay dust), fill it with water (1 part to 3 parts), leave for 3 days, dilute again with water and filter. Ready-made liquid manure concentrate, which is sold in bottles, is also suitable. It must first be diluted with water. Spray several times, repeat the treatment after a week. Spraying with a solution of potassium permanganate gives good results. Pink colour. A daily infusion of garlic is also recommended (25 g of chopped garlic per 1 liter of water). They say that a diluted daily infusion works well horsetail(150 g of dry raw materials per 5 liters of water). Ready-made preparations include Topaz, Skor, Vectra, Cumulus, and Strobi.

Downy mildew (DMP)

Downy mildew penetrates deep into plant tissue, where it grows into mycelium. Its coating cannot be erased from the leaves. Characteristic brown stripes appear on them. The plant most often dies. Cineraria, calceolaria and primrose are especially affected by downy mildew. You can try to save the plant by treating it with copper-containing preparations, for example, a solution of copper sulfate. This must be done with extreme caution.

Gray rot

Gray mold is a disease caused by a fungus. It requires stagnant air, cool and humid conditions to reproduce. The entire above-ground part of the plant is affected, especially the buds and flowers, which are covered with an ash-gray fluff. Begonias often suffer from this disease. When the disease appears, the affected flowers are immediately removed. Leaves and stems are treated with Bordeaux mixture. You can spray with Fundazol or a copper-soap solution ( copper sulfate And green soap). Speed helps. After 10–12 days, the treatment is repeated. Be careful.

Stem and root rot

Stem and root rot leads to the fact that in gloxinias, begonias, primroses, Saintpaulias, cyclamens and other plants, the bases of the stems first become soft and then rot. This was done by fungi living in the soil. The roots lose their ability to nourish the plant, as it is affected by root system. There are many reasons, among them the leading ones are low air temperature, high humidity and excess nitrogen in the soil. Sometimes it is possible to cure a plant from stem and root rot by drying the soil. Watering should be done moderately and only in small quantities with warm water. Mushrooms also die after watering with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Often, to save a variety, it is necessary to cut cuttings from the living part and root them.

Aphid

Aphids live in entire colonies. It multiplies incredibly quickly, occupying young shoots, leaves (especially the lower side), pedicels and buds. Aphids suck out the sap and cause leaf deformation and delayed flowering. These insects leave behind sugary secretions on which sooty fungus develops. Aphids can be killed in many ways. I most often use a soap solution to which I add a little wood ash. Laundry soap foam works well. A poisonous infusion of pyrethrum (10 g per 1 liter), to which soap suds are added, is effective. The treatment must be repeated twice at intervals of a week. Some gardeners use an aqueous infusion of onion or garlic peels (200 g of peels are poured into 10 liters of warm water and left for 24 hours). Needs to be processed several times. The infusion has proven itself well hot pepper. First, prepare a concentrate from fresh or dried pepper. To do this, it is boiled over low heat for about an hour, then infused for 24 hours, filtered and poured into bottles that are tightly closed. For spraying, dilute 100 ml of concentrate in 10 liters of water, add soap foam. I read that infusions of citrus peels work well. It is prepared as follows: place 1 kg of crushed peels in three liter jar and fill with water. Place the jar in a dark, warm place for a day. After filtering, the infusion is ready. It is diluted with water, soap is added and the plant is sprayed. Other methods are also popular: decoction or water infusion of tobacco, mustard powder; infusion or decoction of potato and tomato tops. I know flower growers who make nicotine extract from... cigarette butts. Treatments are repeated several times. It is believed that aphids do not attack plants next to which there is a pot of fragrant geranium (pelargonium). In addition, there are many ready-made preparations, but it is advisable not to use them in residential premises. You can control aphids on indoor plants without any “chemicals”.

Earthworms, woodlice, millipedes, earwigs and caterpillars

Earthworms are very useful in the garden, but not in a flower pot, where the worms damage the roots when there is not enough food. They are easy to catch if you water the ground heavily. So that water can no longer be absorbed into the soil. The worms will soon be on the surface. Woodlice and centipedes that get into a flower pot infect living roots. Nocturnal earwigs gather during the day in a damp cloth placed on the soil in a pot. This simple trap helps get rid of them.
Caterpillars can be brought into the house with a bouquet wildflowers. Guests can be identified by the heavily mutilated leaves of indoor plants.

Dropsy

Dropsy causes ugly growths on the leaves of indoor plants. I learned about this scourge when I saw such growths on the underside of several leaves of a new aglaonema. I had to cut them off and isolate the plant for a while. The new leaves were already healthy. The “cure” for dropsy is a bright and dry place, moderate watering.

These plants are doomed

Verticillium wilt can be cured only at the initial stage if the plant is sprayed with foundationazole. But the disease progresses so quickly that there is no chance of saving indoor flower A little. The shoots wither first, then the whole plant dies. On the cut of the shoot, browned conductive tissue is visible.

Viral diseases lead to “unplanned” streaks, spots, lightened areas, curling or other deformation of leaves. Plants infected with the virus must be destroyed along with the soil. The containers in which they grew should be thoroughly washed and disinfected. Better to throw it away.

Bacterial cancer causes ugly growths with an uneven surface that gradually darkens. It grows, and all parts of the plant located above die off. The virus can cause curling and deformation of not only the leaves, but the entire plant.

Ring mosaic is identified by discolored ring-shaped spots on the leaves. Over time, the spots merge.

Indoor lemon is especially popular among amateur gardeners, but in order to grow a beautiful and healthy plant, you will have to spend a lot of effort. So, indoor lemon is very often attacked various pests, as a result of which the plant is seriously damaged, and sometimes even dies.

Today we will talk about what to do if the leaves of indoor lemon suddenly become sticky, as if poured with sugar syrup, what could this condition indicate and what could cause it?

When is there nothing to worry about?

The leaves of indoor lemon can be coated with sugar syrup if the plant is watered frequently and very generously. Sticky coating in in this case- a completely natural reaction of lemon to excess moisture. In its homeland, lemon attracts ants in this way, collecting all existing pests from the plant. In order to get rid of such plaque, it is enough to simply normalize the amount of moisture entering the lemon.

Scale insect invasion

Scale insects are one of the most insidious pests of lemons, which can sometimes be very difficult to see with the naked eye. The first sign that a scale insect has settled on an indoor lemon is the presence of a transparent sticky coating on the leaves of the plant. Gradually, the affected lemon, becoming exhausted, dries up and dies.

To combat this pest, modern chemicals, such as “Fitoverm”, “Aktara”. When sprayed with these protective agents, the juice of indoor lemon, having absorbed the poison, itself becomes poisonous. By sucking out such juice, the scale insect inevitably dies. After carrying out such treatment, it is important to remove the old top layer of soil and replace it with a new one. As a rule, to achieve the desired result, it is necessary to carry out from three to five treatments, maintaining an interval of two weeks between them. However, it is worth keeping in mind that after such manipulation to save the plant, its fruits will be unsuitable for consumption.

There are other, more harmless methods of dealing with sticky plaque on lemon leaves. For example, you can wash the leaves with tobacco infusion, to prepare which you need to dissolve 50 g of tobacco in 1 liter of water, mix everything thoroughly and leave for two days. Treatment should be carried out 3-4 times a day.

Tricks of aphids

A small light green insect called aphid, rapidly multiplying, infects the leaves, trunk and shoots of indoor lemon and sucks out all the juices from the plant, as a result of which it dies. Aphids can be detected with the naked eye, as they are clearly visible on the vegetative parts of the plant. After an aphid attack, indoor lemon leaves become sticky, curl and dry out.

To combat this pest, the affected areas are washed with a solution of laundry soap every 7 days. Garlic water also helps well; to prepare it, you need to chop a head of garlic and pour hot water (200 ml) into it, then leave it to steep for 2 days. The affected areas of the plant should be treated with this water every 5 days.

Consider capricious plant exposed to various They are often infested, the most common of which is mealybug.

Spots on leaves may indicate improper care, as well as about damage to flowers by various diseases and pests.

In contact with

For example, an orchid disease in which sticky leaves appear has not been identified; they appear when attacked by pests or improper care.

How to determine by appearance Why does the plant hurt and what treatment methods can be used?

Why do orchid leaves turn white and sticky drops appear? Common reason the appearance of a sticky coating and white spots on the leaves of orchids is a mealybug attack.

This insect is 3.5-5 mm in size and has a white or beige-pink color.

The body of the insect is covered with a powdery coating, which is why it got its name. Citrus bugs and bristlebugs are commonly found on orchids.

Citrus mealybugs lives 90 days, becoming capable of reproduction at 15-26 days. Each individual lays up to 400 eggs.

Most optimal temperature+24°C is considered for development. Male citrus bugs can fly and look like small fly yellowish or pink. This type of mealybugs lays especially a lot of honeydew, a sweet substrate.

Bristlebug more different bright color– it can be red or orange. He has long hairs on his body. The insect develops best at +25-27 °C. The bristlebug is a viviparous insect.

Mealybugs do not need males to lay eggs. Females of this species are capable of parthogenesis - laying eggs without fertilization.

The mealybugs feed on the sap of the plant, which is why sticky drops appear on the orchid leaves. The substances they inject are poisonous to orchids and cause their weakening, growth retardation, etc. Therefore, if sticky drops appear on the leaves of the orchid, then this is a sign of damage to the flower by a mealybug.

Plants attacked by scale insects have a number of characteristic features:

redness of leaves;
the appearance of sticky drops on the leaves and sticky spots;
white coating similar to cotton wool;
deformation of leaves and buds;
marble color of leaves;
yellowish or reddish spots on the leaves that tend to become wet.

In the course of their life, scale insects form waxy balls around themselves, similar to cotton wool. The eggs are located underneath them. You can also suspect the presence of scale insects by the dirty gray dust on the leaves, similar to powder.

The cause of the appearance of scale insects is most often due to errors in plant care. Healthy orchids produce substances that protect them from scale insects.

Improper feeding and excess dry air weaken plants and make them vulnerable to pests. An excess of nitrogenous fertilizers is especially dangerous, as a result of which the metabolism of orchids is disrupted, which negatively affects the ability to produce protective substances.

In winter, plants are more susceptible to attack by scale insects.. This is due to short daylight hours and too dry indoor air. All this creates suitable conditions for the reproduction of pests.

In order to prevent sticky drops from appearing on orchids, you need to know a few secrets.

Mealybugs enter the house with other plants. Therefore, when purchasing new orchid it must be carefully examined.

From time to time, all plants should be inspected so as not to miss the appearance of pests.

For preventive purposes, orchids can be treated with preparations containing oil. Regular hot showers and spraying flowers with water at a temperature of +40 -52 °C help prevent the development of scale insects.

Scale insects cannot tolerate temperatures above +35°C and die quickly.

How to treat plants?

How to cure an orchid from mealybug? The first thing to do if the orchid leaves become sticky is to isolate the diseased orchid from healthy plants. After this, it is cleaned of pests. To make it easier to clean the plants, you need to lure the scale insects to the surface.

To do this, just put the flowers in a roast for some time and damp place. The scale insects will crawl out of their hiding places onto the surface of the leaves, and they can be easily seen and removed.

Most often, scale insects settle on leaves, peduncles, sprouts, buds and the flowers themselves. Flowers and buds should be cut off, and the leaves should be wiped with a damp cotton swab.

If the pseudobulbs are covered with scales, then they must be removed and the scale itself must be wiped. Leaves are removed only if there is very severe damage and damage.. You should not try to preserve the aesthetic appearance of the flower - it is better to mercilessly remove all damaged leaves than to fight the mealybug again in a month.

How to get rid of mealybugs on an orchid? If insects have settled in the core of monopodial orchids, the largest individuals must be removed with tweezers. In sympodial flowers, part of the top can be removed. In this case, future leaves will be slightly deformed, but this will prevent pests from reproducing on the plant.

At the same time, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the pots, windows and window sills. To catch and destroy male flying individuals, you need to place a light source and sticky tape nearby to catch flies.

The most effective include:

Spruzit-AF Schädlingsfrei;
Fozalon;
Aktellik;
Aktara;
Nurell-D;
Bi 58;
Phosfamide;
Promanal AF Neu

Spruzit-AF Schädlingsfrei and fozalon belong to contact poisons. They are effective if there are not many scale insects. A single treatment is sufficient, after which the plants should not be exposed to bright sunlight. Otherwise the leaves turn yellow.

Aktellik, Aktara, Nurell-D They belong to intestinal poisons and are similar in action to contact poisons.
Bi 58 and Phosfamide are systemic poisons. They are absorbed by plants and enter the sap flow. Insects are poisoned by feeding on sap.

Promanal AF Neu created on the basis of oils and effectively destroys scale insects within 24 hours. Plants treated with this drug should also not be left in direct sunlight.

Folk remedies are successfully used to treat orchids.

You can spray the flowers with tincture of horsetail, garlic, diluted in water olive oil, a solution of soap and alcohol.

If it's not a mealybug, then why are orchid leaves sticky? A sticky coating on the leaves of an orchid can appear not only when it is infected with a mealybug.

A number of gardeners note that in small quantities, sticky is completely normal for plants and can appear, if the plant is over-watered, therefore, the orchid may have sticky leaves on the bottom.

This way it gets rid of unnecessary moisture. Overmoistening is indicated by the fact that in addition to this, the leaves begin to wither and die at the edges.

It is urgent to change the watering regime, otherwise fungal and bacterial diseases may develop.

This sign may also indicate that the orchid gets too much sunlight.

An indirect sign of this will be a purple tint to the leaves. Or sudden changes in temperature.

They may be a sign that the orchid is scale insect has settled. This pest feeds on the sap of the plant and deprives it of vitality.

In this case, in addition to sticky spots, the following appear:

plaque on leaves with yellowish or reddish spots;
yellowing and falling of young leaves.

To combat scale insects, the leaves are wiped with a soapy solution and treated with Actellik.

Watch a useful video below that explains one of the reasons why sticky drops appear on orchid leaves:

Spots on orchid leaves

Flower growers often face a problem when dark spots begin to appear on the leaves of the orchid. They may have different colour and configuration, be in the form of uneven spots, rings, diamonds.

Sometimes the spots merge with each other. By the appearance of the damage, you can understand what disease has affected the flower.

Brown

The appearance of brownish spots on orchid leaves may indicate bacterial leaf spot. The disease develops quickly and manifests itself with the following symptoms:

the spots change color from green to yellow and then to brown:
spots become soft;
fluid is released from damaged areas

To stop the disease, all damaged areas of the leaves must be removed. Sprinkle the cut areas with crushed activated carbon or lubricate with iodine solution.

Antarium manifested by the appearance brown spots with clear boundaries.

Main signs of the disease:

spots are small, round;
merge as the disease progresses;
the leaves of the orchid turn black;
a pink-yellow coating stands out against the blackness.

Antaria most often causes errors in the course. High humidity in the room, improper watering, as a result of which water accumulates on the leaves and in the pseudobulbs can provoke it.

In order to prevent anthariasis, it is necessary to remove excess droplets on the leaves of the orchid. The disease is treated as bacterial spot.

Below is a photo in which you can see the brown spots in more detail:

White

Are there white spots on your orchid leaves? What is this? This problem can be caused by fungal infection of the leaves - powdery mildew.

The disease can lead to the death of the plant.

Symptoms:

spots appear on the leaves that look like spilled flour;
the areas around the spots begin to dry out.

Powdery mildew develops due to excess moisture and elevated air temperatures.

Cope with powdery mildew possible using phytosporin treatment.

Photo of white spots on orchid leaves:

Black color

Black spots on an orchid caused by sooty fungi. Sooty mildew develops on leaves already damaged by pests.

Such pests include aphids, scale insects, and mealybugs. The fungus feeds on the sweet, sticky secretions of pests.

Externally, the damage looks like a black coating. As a result, the leaves stop functioning properly, which leads to weakening of the orchid and death.

Treatment with Mikosan, Skor helps to cope with the problem.

Photo of black spots on orchid leaves:

Yellow color

The appearance of yellow spots in orchids can be caused by:

hypothermia of the plant;
errors in watering - too much or not enough;
lack of lighting;
sunburn

Particularly dangerous if the flower stands in the sun and is watered abundantly. This leads to development greenhouse effect, overheating of the plant and its diseases. First of all, it is necessary to eliminate flaws in care.

Yellowish and reddish spots may appear on plants affected by rust. This fungal disease, affecting leaves. In this case, spots appear on the underside of the leaves. Then red, loose formations form on them - fungal spores.

To combat rust, you first need to remove the affected areas. In advanced cases, it is necessary to tear off the entire leaf. The cut areas are treated with activated carbon or alcohol solution (20%) and sprayed with Mikosan, Skor.

Below see some photos yellow leaves for orchids:

Appearance of dots

Gardeners may notice black or brown spots on the leaves and flowers of orchids. Dots on flowers are a harmless phenomenon.

Most often, they appear as a result of drops of water or drugs getting on the buds during watering.

If after watering the plant is in bright sun, then after the water drops evaporate, a sunburn remains in their place, which looks like a dot.

White dots on orchid leaves have exactly the same origin.

Most often from this species of Oncidium, Odontioda Zygopetalum, Odontoglossum, Burrageara are affected.

Black spots may be thrips- pests that settle on lower sides leaves. Thrips attack orchids if care rules are not followed.

Favorable conditions for their development are low level humidity and high air temperature.

Distinguish between common points caused by sunburn Thrips infection can be caused by the following signs:

thrips spots appear only on the undersides of leaves;
thrips cause leaves to turn brown and die.

Red leaf color

Reddening of leaves always frightens gardeners. This phenomenon has various reasons:

excess copper;
phosphorus deficiency;
leaf spot;
mealybug infestation.

For preventive purposes to eliminate possible reason If there is an excess of copper, you should change the soil in the pot and apply organophosphorus fertilizer.

Leaf spotting can be suspected if, in addition to a change in color, there are other symptoms - a weeping surface, softening of the leaves.

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Sticky coating on flower leaves. How to get rid of scale insects on lemon - affordable and effective methods