Trichopolum is an effective remedy for late blight on tomatoes. How to treat tomatoes with trichopolum

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To get a good tomato harvest, you need to put in a lot of effort. It is especially important to ensure reliable protection of seedlings and adult plants from damage by fungi or bacteria. Experienced gardeners use Trichopolum for tomato seedlings; the drug belongs to the group of broad-spectrum antibiotics.

The principle of action of Trichopolum

This drug can be purchased at any pharmacy without a prescription. It is available in tablets of 250 or 500 mg.

The excellent results of using the drug are due to its composition. The active ingredient in Trichopolum is the antibiotic Metronidazole, which was synthesized artificially. It has antimicrobial and antiprotozoal properties. In addition, the drug contains substances such as potato starch, gelatin, starch syrup and magnesium stearate.

Trichopolum

Trichopolum suppresses the activity of pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms. This is possible due to the active interaction of Metronidazole and cell DNA. As a result, the process of protein and nucleic acid formation stops.

Trichopolum for tomatoes is used as a preventive measure or to combat fungal and bacterial plant diseases. The use of the drug in the fight against the following diseases has shown excellent results:

  • Late blight. This is the most widespread and dangerous disease for plants. It appears as gray or brown spots, which can affect both above-ground and underground parts of the plant. Spreads by zoospores. Trichopolum against late blight on tomatoes showed excellent results.
  • Powdery mildew. This fungal disease has the ability to spread very quickly. It is transmitted through the use of contaminated water during irrigation, working tools or through the air. Plants affected by the disease quickly begin to wither, their leaves fall off, and a dense coating forms on the green part of the plant white, which significantly complicates the process of photosynthesis.
  • Fusarium. The disease is caused by pathogenic fungi that penetrate the plant through the soil or roots. In diseased plants, the leaves and roots rot, the stems become very thin, and after a while the plant dies.
  • Angular spotting. The disease is caused by bacteria. It affects all parts of the plant, which dry out after a short time.
  • Blackleg. It develops when the soil is watered too much and the plants receive insufficient sunlight. The disease can affect plants grown both in greenhouses and in open ground.

Tomato diseases

Metronidazole for tomatoes has a number of advantages. Among the most significant are the following:

  • high level of efficiency;
  • affordable price;
  • ease of preparation of the solution;
  • safety for humans.

Metronidazole for tomatoes helps not only fight various kinds plant diseases, but also to prevent diseases.

How to treat tomatoes with Trichopolum

To get results, you need to know how to dilute Trichopolum for spraying tomatoes.

Rules for using Metronidazole for tomatoes and cucumbers:

  • Plants should be sprayed before lunch in dry and windy weather.
  • The solution is prepared immediately before processing. The solution remaining after spraying cannot be reused.
  • During treatment, each plant must be sprayed completely. Need to pay Special attention on the stem and leaves, which are located at the bottom of the plant.
  • If it rains within 2 - 3 hours after application, the treatment must be carried out again after the plant and soil have dried.
  • To disinfect the root system, gardeners recommend watering each plant separately, adding 55 ml of the prepared solution.
  • The first treatment should be carried out after the seedlings are planted in open soil.

Important! During the season, treatment of tomatoes with Trichopolum against late blight or other diseases should be carried out at least 3 - 4 times.

  • all seed material is processed before sowing;
  • simultaneously with picking tomato seedlings;
  • immediately after planting the seedlings in open ground or to the greenhouse.

If the number of waterings is increased, it is possible that irreparable harm will be caused to adult plants or seedlings. The harvest will be lost.

Rules for using Metronidazole

Options for preparing the solution:

  • Classical. Completely dissolve 20 Trichopolum tablets in 10 liters of lukewarm water. First, the tablets dissolve in a small amount of liquid, and only then can you add all the remaining water. The solution can be used only after 20 - 30 minutes.
  • With greenery. Adding brilliant green to the Trichopolum solution helps to enhance the effectiveness of the drug. At the same time, 10 tablets of Trichopolum are diluted in 10 liters of warm water, as well as 1 bottle (10 ml) of brilliant green. When spraying a plant with such a mixture, care should be taken to ensure that the liquid does not fall on the leaves. To provide maximum effect effect of the drug, the air temperature should not be lower than 25 degrees. If it is not possible to provide such conditions naturally, after treatment the bed with plants will have to be covered with a layer of transparent cellophane.

Important! In order for the tablets to completely dissolve, they must first be crushed into powder.

  • With iodine. Solutions prepared according to this principle are mainly used in for preventive purposes. This should be done when the plants are at the development stage. To prepare the working solution, you will need to dissolve 15 Trichopolum tablets in 10 liters of warm water and add 1 bottle (10 ml) of iodine to the liquid. Preventive treatment of seedlings or adult plants will reduce the risk of their disease several times.

Zelenka and iodine have antiseptic properties and enhance the effect of the antibiotic.

Important! If you plan to treat large areas, it is better to do this by using a sprayer. To work in small areas, it is recommended to use sprayers. This will help you save not only ready solution, but also operating time.

Alternative means for processing tomato seedlings

No less good results can be achieved by treating tomato seedlings and other fungicides. Among the most commonly used by gardeners are the following:

  • Oksikhom. Available in tablet form. To prepare the solution, add 1 tablet to 5 liters of water. In addition to treating the plant itself, it is also recommended to spray the soil underneath it.
  • Fitosporin M. drug is used as a prophylaxis for late blight disease. Dissolve 3 grams in 1 liter of water. drug. It is recommended to treat seedlings with this solution every week.
  • Quadris. A new drug that has a wide spectrum of action and belongs to strobilurins. It is used to combat a large list of diseases, including powdery mildew, late blight, downy mildew and spotting. When it comes into contact with a plant, the drug begins to act instantly.
  • Acrobat. This tool was developed quite recently. As a result, fungi and bacteria have not yet developed an addiction to it.
  • Ridomil. Mainly used to combat late blight and alternaria. The drug is available in the form of granules, which greatly facilitates the process of its use. Ridomil does not react with virtually any pesticide.
  • Agate. A drug of biological origin. Used for pre-treatment of seeds before sowing. Its use not only promotes rapid seed germination, but also reduces the risk of disease in seedlings and adult plants by 50 - 60%.
  • Maksim. Mainly used for seed treatment, which prevents the development of rot in young seedlings.
  • Fundazol. Presented in the form of a white powder that has a little bad smell. This is what repels insects from young seedlings.
  • Bordeaux mixture. Used to combat fungal diseases.

Alternative means for processing tomato seedlings

These are just some of the drugs that are used to combat or prevent various types of tomato diseases. Experienced gardeners do not advise focusing on any one remedy. This can cause bacterial or fungal diseases to become addicted to it. It is necessary to spray the plants with several preparations, alternating them.

Except chemicals gardeners also use solutions prepared according to folk recipes. According to reviews, their effectiveness is no less than that of ready-made fungicides.

Among the most famous and effective I would like to name the following:

  • garlic solution (crush 1.5 tablespoons of garlic and pour 10 liters of warm water over them. Leave to infuse in this form for 24 hours. After the specified time, strain the solution and then add 2 grams of potassium permanganate. The first time this solution is used during formation of the ovary. Subsequently, it can be sprayed on the plants once a week);
  • milk whey (this product is environmentally friendly, which allows it to be used daily);
  • baker's yeast (dissolve 100 grams of yeast in 10 liters of water. This solution is recommended for spraying when the first signs of disease are detected);
  • table salt (the product is used to process green tomato fruits. To prepare it, you need to dissolve 250 grams of salt in 10 liters of water);
  • milk with iodine (16 drops of iodine must be dissolved in 1 liter of low-fat milk. In addition to the fact that this solution will help prevent the development of a large list of diseases, it helps accelerate the ripening period of fruits);
  • tinder fungus (100 grams of fresh mushroom is steamed in 1 liter of warm water. This solution can be used after 12 hours. With its help you can fight the development of late blight on tomatoes);
  • propolis (100 grams of propolis, which can be purchased at a pharmacy, dissolved in 1 liter of water and left for 24 hours);
  • rotted straw (soak 1 kg of straw in 10 liters of warm water and add 200 grams of urea there. The mixture should sit for 4 - 5 days. After this, drain the liquid, which is used for spraying tomatoes. The treatment can be repeated every 15 days).

Folk remedies

It is impossible to say which remedy is better. Each gardener chooses the one that, in his opinion, is most effective. The main thing is not to stop your choice on one drug. Experienced gardeners recommend starting processing from the seed preparation stage. Their germination depends on this. Right choice means for treating tomato seedlings has a direct effect on yield.

Knowing how to grow Trichopolum for tomatoes, you can protect your plants from many dangerous diseases.

Iodine in the garden

An ordinary bottle of iodine can provide a gardener with more than one great service. Since we all know from childhood that iodine is an excellent antiseptic, it would be a sin not to use this property in the prevention of plant diseases, especially all kinds of rot. It is recommended to spray strawberries and wild strawberries with a solution of 5-10 drops of iodine in ten liters of water before flowering. This simple procedure will rid it of gray rot and activate vitality. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of ten days. Tomato seedlings are watered once with a solution of one drop of iodine per three liters of water to increase productivity and future fruit size. After planting the seedlings in the ground, you can fertilize with iodine again by adding three drops of iodine to a bucket of water. Watering rate: liter per bush. If you mix 40 drops of iodine with a liter of whey and a tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide in 10 liters of water, you will get an excellent remedy for combating the hated late blight. By adding a liter of low-fat milk and 10-12 drops of iodine to 9 liters of water, you get a solution that destroys downy mildew on cucumbers. In addition, iodine is included in the ingredients that prevent yellowing of cucumber leaves and promote rejuvenation of vines.

Zelenka in the garden

Brilliant green solution is no less famous than iodine; it can also be used in dacha farming, no doubt. Green paint can be used to lubricate wounds of plants during minor pruning or accidental damage instead of garden varnish. 40 drops of brilliant green dissolved in a bucket of water will help rid tomatoes from late blight, and cucumbers from powdery mildew. In order not to measure out a drop each time, you can dilute a bottle of brilliant green in a liter of water, and then add a little bit by eye to the water for spraying. Spraying cherries with a weak solution of brilliant green promotes better fruit set.

Trichopolum in the garden

"Trichopol" is used as a prophylactic against late blight. For this purpose, 1 tablet of Trichopolum is dissolved in 1 liter of water and sprayed on the tomatoes every two weeks.

Aspirin in the garden

Aspirin is part of one of the means to combat powdery mildew of gooseberries and currants.

Potassium permanganate in the garden

Potassium permanganate is well known to any gardener and is used everywhere. First of all, it is recommended to treat the seeds in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 grams per 100 ml) before planting in order to destroy possible pathogens that overwinter on the seeds. For this purpose, the seeds are soaked in the solution for 20 minutes and then dried. If you add potassium permanganate (3 grams per 10 liters) to a bucket of pink solution boric acid on the tip of a knife, it will be a good early spring fertilizer for strawberries, raspberries, currants and gooseberries. This feeding option is especially good in areas with sandy soils. 2 teaspoons of potassium permanganate, dissolved in 10 liters of water, will save strawberries from gray rot, if you don’t forget to spray the berries after flowering. Potatoes are soaked in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate before planting, as well as seed tubers before storing. Neither wireworms nor pathogenic fungi like this treatment. In addition, potassium permanganate dissolved in water is used to spill soil for seedlings, wash boxes, cups and pots in which they plan to grow seedlings or force greens, and treat the inside and outside of greenhouses and hotbeds to prevent plant diseases. The only thing you should not forget when using potassium permanganate is that everything is good in moderation. You shouldn’t get too carried away with watering with “rose water”. Excess manganese in the soil can adversely affect crop development.

Glucose and vitamin B1 in the garden

These vitamins are used to feed flowers. The plants are fed five times with an interval of two weeks with the following solution: 5 ml. glucose and 1 ml. vitamin B1 per 5 liters of water. Abundant and long-lasting flowering is guaranteed!

Boric acid in the garden

Boric acid is the best helper for poor fruit set. A solution of boric acid (dilute 2 grams in half a liter of water, and then bring the water to 10 liters) can be sprayed on all plants to stimulate the ovary. As we wrote earlier, some gardeners add boric acid to a bucket of water with a pink solution of potassium permanganate at the tip of a knife, mix everything thoroughly and use it to feed strawberries and raspberries. in early spring. Such fertilizing not only helps to increase yield, it also improves the taste of the berries. In addition to the above, boric acid is used as a component of a complex nutrient solution for soaking seeds before planting. Two handfuls onion peel pour a liter of boiling water and mix it with pre-prepared ash solution in a 1:1 ratio. To 1 liter of such a solution add 1 gram of manganese, 0.1-0.3 grams of boric acid and 5 grams of baking soda.

Hydrogen peroxide in the garden

Hydrogen peroxide can successfully replace traditional potassium permanganate at the stage of seed treatment. To disinfect seeds, they are soaked in a 10% peroxide solution for 20 minutes, and then washed with water and dried. If you are sure that there are no pathogenic organisms on your seeds, then you can use hydrogen peroxide as a growth stimulant. In this case, the seeds must be soaked for 12 hours (and difficult-to-germinate seeds like parsley, carrots or beets - 24 hours) in a 0.4% peroxide solution. Then rinse and dry in the same way until free-flowing. This treatment promotes rapid germination, increased yield and increased plant immunity. Peroxide can also help in the fight against late blight. A tablespoon of peroxide in a bucket of water with the addition of forty drops of iodine (or without it) is a ready-made solution for preventive spraying of tomatoes.
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crushed analgin affects ants
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garlic-onion yellowing, pour with metronidazole.. 4-5 tabs per bucket.
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To prevent slugs, it is very good to sprinkle the ground with mustard or pepper; the slugs will burn.
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I have been fighting wireworms for several years now. Chalk, lime, and flour do not work against wireworms, they simply deoxidize the soil, and this is not enough to kill wireworms. I found the following on the internet about wireworms: put fresh pine needles, rotten sprat and tar in the holes. About tar - put a medicine bottle on a bucket of sand, mix and add a tablespoon into the hole. Potatoes don’t smell like tar
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Willow is blooming - you can sow plants that are resistant to short-term frosts in exhaust gas: lettuce, radishes, parsley, dill...
The aspen is blooming - you can sow carrots, parsnips...
The birch and poplar trees are blooming, the bird cherry blossoms have opened their buds - it’s time to plant potatoes, spring garlic, and onion sets.
The lilac has bloomed - it’s time to plant/sow heat-loving plants in open ground: cucumbers, pumpkins, beans and other crops (under temporary shelters made of film/non-fabric)
Rosehip and rowan have bloomed - time to plant permanent place(open ground) tomato seedlings.
The elderberry flowers have bloomed - the time has come to plant late cabbage.
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The beginning of spring is not clear in time, so you need to pay more attention to the clues of nature. The “red day” of the gardener’s calendar is when the coltsfoot blooms. On average it is April 7th. From this day, our ancestors counted the dates of spring work. The start of plowing (preparing beds for sowing) was timed to coincide with the 14th day. On the 11th day of flowering, the hives were set up and planted fruit trees, cleared strawberries from dry leaves, loosened the ground. On the 23rd day they sown early vegetables- onions, beets, turnips, parsley, dill, carrots, peas, radishes, radishes. 30 days after the coltsfoot, the birch and poplar trees bloom. This is the signal to land early potatoes. IF THE MOTHER STEPMOTHER BLOOMED in early April, or even earlier, it is better to postpone planting potatoes until the bird cherry blossoms. Cherry, pear, and plum bloom on the 29th day, and the apple tree on the 32nd after coltsfoot.
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spraying with urea 700g +100g vitriol. instead of Bardos. early spring or late autumn.
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Then they mixed regular baby cream with vanilla powder - vanilla somehow repels mosquitoes. There is also this way:
In 100 g warm water dilute a packet of vanillin and spray it through a spray bottle onto open areas and gently onto the face and hair. NOT ONE CREATURE WILL FLY UP OR BITE!
...

1. One hundred grams of camphor or valerian, evaporated over a burner, will get rid of flies and mosquitoes even in very large rooms.
2. Finely chop fresh bird cherry or rowan leaves and rub on exposed skin.
3. Essential oils cloves, basil, anise, eucalyptus:
Apply to exposed skin (5-10 drops per glass of water), or on a fire source - in a fireplace, bonfire, on a candle or a heated frying pan. Moisten a cotton pad with the oil of these plants and place it on the windowsill.
4. Place fresh elderberry branches in the room; they repel mosquitoes in the same way as the smell of tomato leaves.
5. If you decide to sit in nature, throw juniper branches into the fire.
6. The smell of cedar oil repels not only mosquitoes, but also flies and cockroaches.
7. Not a single insect will touch your face if you wash your face with a decoction of wormwood roots (pour a handful of chopped roots with 1.5 liters of water, bring to a boil, leave for 20-30 minutes).
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Composition of the spray solution
Four ten-gram bubbles of brilliant green.
One five percent, five-gram bottle of iodine.
Two hundred liter barrel of water.
Pour the bubbles into a barrel of water, stir and two hundred liters of spray liquid to protect all types of plants from diseases at your fingertips.
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Insects can be fought with an infusion (two days' worth of half a bucket and topped up with water) of Celandine (sprayed). Any eggs die. Very good works well on aphids.

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Pour into a barrel one third of nettles, a bucket of mullein, 2 shovels of ash, 2 kg of yeast, 3 liters of whey. Infuses for two weeks. Then you need to water it at the root - and the tomatoes grow by leaps and bounds.
An infusion is being prepared. The following is placed in a 200-liter container (barrel):
- a shovel of wood or grass ash;
- half a bucket of manure or droppings;
- a bucket of rotten straw or leaf litter;
- a shovel of humus, compost or just garden soil;
- a shovel of sand;
- a liter of whey or yogurt;
- 3 liters of mash!

The mash is prepared as follows: for 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, take 5 tbsp. spoons of sugar and a pinch of yeast. It ferments for 2-3 days, then it is added to the general tank. Before use, you need to store the mash in the refrigerator - it is valuable until it sours.
In a common tank, all the fresh water is infused for a week. Sometimes it should be stirred. When used, the infusion is diluted at least twice.
(Yu.I. Slashchinin)

2. At 200 liter barrel I add 2/3 of a barrel of weed grass. (you can add 2 shovels of ash). I fill it with water and cover it with film on top. Infuses for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute it 1 to 10.

3. I put fresh manure in a 200 liter barrel, 1/3 of the barrel. I fill it with water. Infuses for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute it 1 to 10.

4. I put it in a 200 liter barrel chicken droppings, 1/3 barrel. I fill it with water. Infuses for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute it 1 to 20.
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Comments

  1. Yeast for fertilizing flowers and more...

    As you know, ordinary baker's yeast is wonderful stimulant growth.
    The composition of yeast is rich in minerals, organic iron and microelements. When yeast dissolves in water, substances are released that accelerate root formation.
    Plants watered with this solution become stronger, seedlings tolerate picking better and stretch less.
    In short, yeast improves plant nutrition and enhances the activity of soil microorganisms. But there is also a limitation on their use - it is useless to introduce them into cold soil. They need warmth to develop, and they only work in warm soil.

    A noticeable effect will be in the spring, during picking or transplanting seedlings, or in the fall, during the rooting of strawberry rosettes. Yeast absorbs a lot of calcium during its activity. In the South this is not a problem, but in Middle lane It’s better to add ash along with them.

    Traditional recipe for pitching yeast:
    regular ones - diluted in water in a ratio of 1 kg of yeast per 5 liters of water. Before use, the resulting composition is further diluted in 50 liters of water;
    dry - diluted in water in a ratio of 10 g per 10 liters of warm water, add 2 tbsp. spoons of sugar.
    Let it brew for about two hours, then dilute it in the same way in 50 liters of water and use it.

    You can use natural yeast to feed plants - a starter obtained, for example, from hops or wheat grains.

    Sourdough recipe from wheat grains:
    soak a glass of wheat and let it germinate (for about one day);
    grind into porridge; add 1-2 tbsp. spoons of sugar and flour until the consistency of thick porridge;
    stir and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes; put in a warm place until it turns sour (bubbles appear) for about a day.
    The starter is ready.

    Hop starter recipe:
    Place hop cones (dry or fresh) in a saucepan and pour hot water, boil for one hour;
    cool and strain;
    add sugar and flour to the broth (twice as much flour as sugar);
    mix and place in a warm place for 1.5 days;
    add mashed boiled potatoes to the mixture (until the porridge becomes thick);
    stir and leave for another day.
    The starter is ready.

    Onion peels are also an excellent supplement.
    In order for the plants to be healthy and bloom luxuriantly, they must be fed with a decoction of onion peels. The decoction is prepared as follows. Place four handfuls of onion peels in a bucket. Fill the bucket to the top with water, bring to a boil and let it brew. Leave for a day. Then, for feeding, take 1.5 liters of broth in a bucket of water and water your pets. The effect is fantastic. A lot has been written, but it’s very quick to do it, try it

  2. 10 gardening secrets

    1. “Salt” the onion
    Before planting onions, it is recommended to soak them for 3-4 hours in salt water - 100 g of salt per 5 liters of water.

    2. Cucumbers with milk and honey
    If cucumber seeds are pre-soaked (before planting in the ground) in milk, the fruits will be tastier and more tender, and if they are soaked in honey water, they will be sweeter.

    3. Cut off the leaves
    2-3 days before planting tomatoes in the ground, 2-3 lower leaves of the seedlings are cut off.

    4. Don't water
    It is advisable not to water the plants for the first 12-14 days after planting: root system will develop into the ground and they will suffer less from dry periods.

    5. Stimulate
    Before planting in the ground, it is useful to spray the seedlings with a solution of epin (growth biostimulator), and repeat the spraying after a week.

    6. Nasturtium for whitefly
    To repel whiteflies from tomatoes, plant Alaska nasturtiums between the bushes.

    7. So that the garlic is large
    Plant it in soil enriched with peat, with the addition of a small amount of sand. For 1 m2 – 2 buckets of peat and 0.5 buckets of sand.

    8. Tomato balm
    Pour 1/3 of nettle into the barrel, add a bucket of mullein, 2 shovels of ash, 2 kg of yeast, 3 liters of whey. The solution is infused for two weeks. Then add the root mixture - the tomatoes will grow before your eyes.

    9. Greens for fertilizer
    Chop 1 kg of green grass into 10 liters of hot water and leave to steep for a day. Then strain and water, spending 3-4 liters per 1 m2.

    10. Rescue from snails
    Cut several pieces of laundry soap into 3 parts and place them at the bottom of containers made from 1.5-liter plastic bottles.
    Add some water. Place jars of soap throughout the area. Every morning they will contain snails, which should be collected and placed in a bucket of salt.

  3. If onions or garlic begin to turn yellow, you need to pour metronidazole solution over them: dissolve four metronidazole tablets (250 mg) in 10 liters of water. The soapy water with potassium permanganate used by many has no effect.

    Currants and gooseberries will bear fruit abundantly if you often bury potato peelings under the bushes and plant garlic on the sides.

    To prevent raspberries from growing, plant garlic around the perimeter. Raspberry will not cross this line.

    Potatoes will not be damaged by wireworms if, when planting, a handful of onion peels are placed in each hole, which must be stored from the winter.

    There is a case when tobacco does not harm health, but on the contrary, helps: if you spray the young leaves with tobacco infusion before and after flowering, you will be able to avoid the use of chemicals. The infusion is prepared as follows: pour 400 g of tobacco into 10 liters of hot water, leave for two days, strain and add 40 g of grated laundry soap.

    In order to keep apples on the branch until the cold weather and have a harvest every year, you need to prune the branches that prevent other branches from growing every year in the spring. In addition, it is good to feed the apple tree with stale moldy bread, which should be buried under the tree. This is a nutritional complex for apple trees. You should also not “cowardly” the tree; it is better to use a special net for collecting apples. Apple trees don't like to be shaken.

    It is better to cover a cucumber bed with slate, since it does not dampen like wood and serves long years. Install posts on the sides and stretch the sleeper. And when the cucumbers grow up to 10 cm, they must be tied to a trellis. All summer there will be no slugs or aphids, and the cucumber vines are healthy, green, and bloom abundantly. In the fall, dig up this bed and put all the waste on it: vegetable tops, dried flowers... Sprinkle everything with ash and cover it with soil for the winter. In spring, the garden bed breathes warmth.

    If you are overwhelmed by insects in the garden, you need to mix ground black pepper with flour and sprinkle it around the plants. The insects will rush to get away

  4. 7 useful tips when growing plants.

    1. Iodine for cabbage
    Add 40 drops of iodine to a bucket of water. When a head of cabbage begins to form, water the cabbage under the plant, 1 liter at a time.

    2. Acceleration of germination
    To make the seeds germinate faster, they are soaked in a solution of hydrogen peroxide
    (4%) for 12 hours (cabbage), and tomato and beet seeds - for 24 hours.
    To disinfect seeds (instead of potassium permanganate), they are treated with 10%
    hydrogen peroxide for 20 minutes. The ratio of solution and seeds is 1:1. Then
    the seeds are washed and dried.

    3. Onion tea
    Dry the tea leaves and store them for planting onions. Apply under each bulb when planting. Onions don't get sick.

    4. After the rain
    The potato harvest will be three times larger if potato seedlings (10-12
    cm) hill up immediately after rain or heavy watering. Then
    additional trunks on which tubers will appear after some time.

    5. Banana fertilizers
    Take banana peels, fill them with water (for example, in a three-liter jar),
    wait until bubbles form on the surface: water indoor
    flowers. Proportions are derivative. You can pour water into old crusts, adding
    new.

    6. Flowers by leaps and bounds
    Dissolve 100 g of raw yeast in 10 liters of water. Water all plants, including
    including indoor flowers, once a month. The result is excellent growth.

    7. Prevention with garlic
    Garlic infusion strengthens plant immunity. Pour 4-5 cloves
    garlic 1 liter of boiling water and let it brew for 20 minutes. The resulting solution
    add 1 tbsp to the water for irrigation. l. per 1 liter of water - for any
    plants.

  5. Gardener's Reminder

    Onion
    - Before planting: pour 1 tablespoon of salt per 1 liter of water for 3 hours.
    - After salt: dark solution of potassium permanganate for 2 hours. Be sure to rinse.
    - From onion fly: 1. The first leaf has appeared 1) Spill with water. 2) Watering 2 tablespoons ammonia on a bucket of water (3 watering cans per 6 square meters of beds) 3) Spill with water. 2. After 10-14 days. Using the same scheme, water 1 tablespoon of salt per 1 liter of water 3. After 10 days. Using the same scheme, watering with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
    - Feeding: Likes yeast infusion: 100g. leave yeast for 1 bucket for 1 hour, pour, feed, pour.
    - Thin out the shallots, don’t be sorry.
    - Finish watering, rake the soil.
    - Fry it in the sun in the garden, don’t drag it into the attic.

    Cucumber

    - Water only with warm water in the evening.
    - Feeding: they love yeast, 100g. yeast for 1 bucket, leave for 1 hour, pour, feed 1 glass of infusion onto the bush, spill. The best feeding: nettle with ash, so put it in the greenhouse.
    - Make a frame for the lashes along the top.
    - Don’t loosen, add soil.
    - Place a bucket with slurry or grass.
    - Spraying against illness: 1 liter of skim milk + 20 drops of iodine per bucket of water. As a preventive measure, you can add green soap once every two weeks. You can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

    Tomatoes
    - Before sowing, 5-6 days before sowing, pour the soil with hot water and 1 tbsp. copper sulfate on a bucket of water, cover with film.
    - Plant: in the greenhouse and in the garden bed nasturtium - from whiteflies, basil - from disease and just loves being in the neighborhood, spread Vaseline on a yellow piece of paper.
    - Keep the greenhouse open, don’t close it.
    - Mulch when the ground warms up with grass and hay.
    - Watering under mulch.
    - Do steaming a couple of times: close the greenhouse for half a day, then ventilate thoroughly.
    - Spraying against illness: 1 liter of skim milk + 20 drops of iodine per bucket of water. As a preventive measure, you can add green soap once every two weeks. You can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
    - Pierce the trunks copper wire or a toothpick.
    - Chop the tops and tuck them into the ground.
    - Prevention of late blight: five days after planting seedlings 1g. CuSO4 in 4 liters of soft rainwater - spray. Five days after the first treatment from a watering can: 40g. Pour dry horsetail with water, boil for 15 minutes, drain the broth and save. Pour in the sediment and boil for 10 minutes. Combine the decoctions and bring to 5 liters.
    - Five days after the previous treatment. 0.5 liters of skim milk + 50 drops of iodine per 5 liters of water.
    - 7-10 days after the previous treatment, 1 ml. Epina for 5 liters of water.

    Raspberries
    - Do not untie the raspberries until you have processed them.
    - Draw the large-fruited one and the yellow one. For a week in damp moss in the barn, for 1-3 days on the veranda, then plant in cups under film.
    - The first treatment is Bordeaux mixture with a broom.
    - The second in a week - 3 handfuls of urea per bucket of water from a watering can.
    - From the raspberry beetle and weevil on the buds - actellik, fufanon, karbofos. Remember, at +13 degrees he has already gone hunting. Try spraying it a couple of times at the end of May up to the buds so that the shoots don’t bend.
    - Folk remedy for weevils: 1 tablespoon of mustard per 1 liter of warm water, also for buds, a decoction of wormwood. Place the wormwood under the raspberries and over the strawberries.
    - Water, water and water again.
    - Weed, trim, bend.

    Gladiolus
    - Cover with black film to warm up.
    Feeding:
    - 2 sheets - 1 tablespoon of urea + 1.5 tablespoons of potassium sulfate per bucket of water per 1 m2, spray with zircon to form roots.
    - 3-4 sheet - the same + foliar feeding microfertilizer + 2g. (a little less than half a teaspoon) of boric acid per bucket of water.
    - 5-6 leaves -1 tbsp. spoons of urea + 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate + 0.5 tablespoons of superphosphate.
    - Peduncle release - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska + 2g (slightly less than half a teaspoon) of boric acid per bucket of water.
    - After flowering 1.5 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate + 1.5 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate. At the same time, 0.5 teaspoon of KMnO4 per bucket of water over the leaves. Stop feeding in September.
    - It is better to feed when watering once a week.
    - From diseases and pests: 100 grams of garlic per 10 liters of water, 30-40 grams. HOMA for a bucket of water, phytosporin, Actellik, fufanon, karbofos, fitoverm.
    - Remember, tris are renewed every ten days and get used to the fungicide, change and treat.
    - Mulch with pine needles, take your time, add little by little, let the earth warm up.
    - Plant nasturtiums and marigolds along the bed.
    - I dug it up, washed it, karbofos (decis), after 4-5 days Maxim and a month or two (until it dries) near the stove (20-25 degrees) in one layer.

    Iris
    Feeding:

    In early spring - fertilizing with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1:1:1, respectively;
    - during the formation of buds - fertilizing with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 0.5:1:3, respectively;
    - a month after flowering - fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium in a 1:1 ratio.

    Actinidia
    - Do not loosen the plants, but sprinkle them with humus, since the roots are located close to the surface.
    - Fertilizers - complex in early spring mineral fertilizer, in the fall - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash.
    - Protect from cats.
    - The bulk of the plant's roots are located in the surface layer of soil. Therefore, in hot weather, daily watering is required. It is better to carry them out in the late afternoon, irrigating the crown and tree trunk.
    - Don’t even think about pruning in the spring - you’ll pay for it and won’t recover.
    - In the fall, after the end of the growing season, branches that are broken, underdeveloped and thicken the crown are cut out. All annual shoots are cut to 50-70 cm, since all the fruit buds of the plant are located within this length. Keep in mind that you cannot prune actinidia in the spring. Otherwise, she will “cry” bitterly, that is, juice will flow from the wounds.

  6. People's secrets about gardening

    Late blight

    For a bucket of water, 1 liter of whey (you can use kefir) 10 drops of iodine, spray at least every week

    Mustard powder helps against late blight: 100g sachet. pour 1 liter of boiling water, let it simmer (so that it swells and steams) When it cools down, add 4 liters cold water, and you can already process

    Can be sprayed with serum in the proportion of 1 liter: 10 liters of water

    Antifungal drug from the pharmacy trichopolum (expensive) or metronidazole (its cheap analogue): 10 tablets per bucket of water.. I don’t know who decided... but the recipe is tenacious...

    Against late blight of tomatoes - spray the plants with 10% aqueous infusion of garlic during the period of fruit set on the second cluster. Repeat spraying every 15-18 days (up to 5 times), as the fruit clusters and leaves under them grow.

    Rastushki

    Tomatoes

    To set tomatoes, add 1 teaspoon of boric acid (powder) with a small tubercle to 10 liters of water, and spray the tomatoes.

    Time of flowering and fruit set; at high temperatures, tomatoes do not set fruit; as a means of combating this phenomenon, treat tomatoes with a weak solution of boric acid - 5 g per bucket of water, approximately once every 7-10 days, and it turned out that only they bloomed - we started spraying them with boron, up to 5 treatments per season. This treatment is also a prevention against late blight.

    Currant

    FEED as soon as the currants bloom. To do this, dissolve 3 matchboxes of urea (without a slide) in 10 liters. water. And water it - each bush needs 5 liters of solution.

    To get a rich harvest of cucumbers, you need to feed them regularly! Bread sourdough is perfect for this. It's easy to prepare! FILL THE BUCKET 2/3 WITH SLICED BLACK BREAD CRUSTS, FILL WITH WATER and weigh it down with something heavy. Otherwise, the crusts will float when the bread starts to sour. Place the bucket in a warm place for a week. Then dilute the starter with 2 liters. water. And pour this bread mixture over the cucumbers at the root. Such fertilizing can be carried out once a week FROM THE BEGINNING OF FLOWERING TO THE BEGINNING OF WILLING.

    The leaves turn yellow - there is not enough potassium. It is good to spray with an infusion of ash (2 tbsp of ash per liter of boiling water and leave for two days). This infusion will also help with powdery mildew on gooseberries (it is better to do this during bud break and after flowering) or like this: Feed them with onion infusion. To do this, add 1 tbsp to a metal bucket of warm water (30g). onion peel. Place the bucket on the fire, bring to a boil and let it brew for 2 hours. Then pour the infusion from a watering can over the cucumber leaves.

    To combat powdery mildew, spray with sour milk (1:1), straining it beforehand, of course (in order not to bother with straining, you can spray it with a broom). It will all go away, although there are a lot of drugs against the American spheroteca (a hybrid with the local one), but this is the only simple and effective way, which is also safe. You will have to spray 1 per week for sure. costs of the biomethod

    A solution of baking soda 50 grams per 10 liters of water + 50 grams of soap will help against powdery mildew. and spray generously.
    * * *
    During the period of flowering and fruit set, I was advised to water it with milk, I bought 1.5 liters of water for a bucket of water, after watering with plain water, I went over the cucumbers with “milk water”, I’ll tell you honestly - it’s effective! The milk, though I didn’t buy it in a store, but from a private owner, was natural! This water can also be used to make rain from a watering can.

    You need to water the cucumbers with banana broth. It has a lot of potassium!

    For better setting of cucumbers, I spray them with a solution of honey and soak the seeds in honey water.

    When mulching cucumbers, you should avoid touching the mulch to the root collar - the stem will rot

    About Trichopolum: last summer, when the cucumbers had 5-6 leaves, the plants suddenly began to disappear, turn yellow, no matter what I watered and sprayed, a new green leaf appeared, grew and turned yellow, I already wanted to pull everything out and replant. My neighbor told me to take 2 tablets of Trichopolum per bucket of water. I diluted 5 tablets. HURRAY, SAVED everything. What kind of illness did you have, what kind of virus was it?

    Strawberry

    Before flowering, strawberries can be sprayed with iodine, 10 drops per 10 liters, to protect against diseases.

    In the second half of summer, apply an increased dose of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the strawberries, spray with a solution of lye (4 kg x 10 l of water) or superphosphate (100 g x 10 l of water), or a mixture of potassium permanganate (3 g) + potassium nitrate (50 g) per bucket water

    Garlic infusion helped me get rid of weevil. Grind the garlic in a blender and add water - 1 glass of garlic per 2 liters of water. Insist. Strain the infusion and pour 1 glass of infusion into a 1.5 liter bottle, add water and spray.

    By the way, 40 ml per 10 liters of water saved my strawberries from the larvae of the cockchafer. I shed it once in the spring.

    In order for onions to grow by leaps and bounds, you need to water them with yeast dissolved in water - 100 grams of pressed yeast per 10 liters of water. Once every 2 weeks

    About cabbage

    Dressing cabbage seeds - grind 26 g of garlic, mix with 100 g of cabbage seeds for 10 minutes. shake in a tightly closed jar.

    When planting cabbage, I put a handful of onion peels, I once read in the newspaper, someone shared their experience. When the cabbage begins to grow, some worm eats it and it disappears. After using the husks this way, not a single bush fell

    Very often, young cabbage heads are attacked by hungry caterpillars and begin to devour the cabbage leaves. So, if you sprinkle cabbage with a saline solution, the caterpillars go away. Don't forget soap as an adhesive.

    I read in a garden about 10 years ago that to prevent caterpillars from eating cabbage, dilute a tablespoon of 70% vinegar essence or 1 glass of 9% vinegar in a bucket of water and spray the cabbage. + soap

    When I plant cabbage, I say, “Grow big, and round.” Later, put the leaves in a bunch and turn them slightly clockwise, also saying, “Grow big, and round!” When I sow the seeds, I loosen them during the first hilling. I read the advice in the book “ Folk signs for gardeners and gardeners" The words "Grow big and round" are magical.

    There was also advice in the book - in order for the cabbages to be tied, you need to pinch the top leaves with a clothespin (so that the cabbage leaves are covered inside the cabbage leaves. Then it begins to form low and round).

    I used to have a problem with cabbage stretching out and not tying into bobs. The problem is gone - I curl the head of the cabbage a little... And another popular wisdom - “Put it in the mud - you will be a prince!” - also checked.

    To prevent cracking, it is necessary to constantly maintain soil moisture sufficient for the growth of heads of cabbage, and not allow it to dry out, even for a couple of days. But, if this has happened, and the cabbage has not been watered for a week or a week and a half, it is worth stopping watering.

    When you find one or two cracked heads of cabbage, you need to do the following: take measures to reduce the moisture consumption of the remaining heads of cabbage from the soil. To do this, you need to tear off the small roots by slightly lifting the head of cabbage up or turning it 45-50 degrees in both directions. And, of course, stop further watering.


  7. Ferovit diluted according to instructions.
    If you don’t have the product at hand, you can prepare iron chelate.
    You need 7.5 g of iron sulfate and 12 g of citric acid.
    Dilute in 3 liters. Add vitriol to boiled or settled water, then add lemon juice separately. Mix. You should get a light yellow solution. Water at the root, on moist soil.
    How to measure -1 tsp. -about 5 grams, but it’s better to underdo it.

    Attachments:


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    From chlorosis. Foliar iron chelate (ferrovit). After a couple of days, use magnesium sulfate. (we buy at the pharmacy, approx. 6 ml per 1 l).
  8. Maybe put the package of tablets in the freezer for disinfection?
    Or maybe in the microwave...
    Colleagues, here I am again talking about our long-suffering calcium nitrate and other fertilizers. Briefly speaking, razvodilovo:
    Preparation of solutions
    We multiply the quantity of solution (g) by 100 and divide (there is a division sign here, not a smiley face!) by the volume (V) in ml in which you want to dissolve this solution:
    Size (gr) x 100: V (ml)
    30g in 200ml = 15% solution (calcium nitrate – 1 level tablespoon – approx. 15 g).
    250g – in 1 l = 25% solution
    250g – 2.5l = 10% solution.
    How to prepare a solution from a solution of known concentration:
    Multiply the desired quantity by the desired volume and divide by the original quantity:
    Qty(yel.) x V(yel.) : K(out.):
    For example: You need to prepare 1 liter:
    - 1% calcium solution nitrate from 25% solution: 0.1 x 1000: 25 = 4 ml (up to 1 liter of water)
    - 0.1% solution from 10% solution: 0.1 x 1000: 10 = 1 ml (up to 1 liter of water)
    - 0.15% solution from 15% solution: 10 ml to 1 liter of water or 5 ml to 500 ml of water.
    - 0.2% solution from 25% solution: 8 ml to 1 liter of water.
    - 2% solution from 10%: 2 x 1000: 10 = 200 ml to 1 liter of water.
    - 2% solution from 25%: 80 ml to 1 liter of water.
    - 1.5% solution from 15% solution: 100 ml to 1 liter of water.

    Dolomika effectively deoxidizes the soil. Just like ash, for example, or slaked lime, or chalk.
    Calcium nitrate does not deoxidize it AT ALL, and even slightly acidifies it.
    It's not the presence of calcium ion, but the acid residue. Dolomite flour It is a mixture of calcium carbonate and magnesium (salts of carbonic acid). And saltpeter is calcium nitrate (a salt of nitric acid). Nitric acid is strong. During the hydrolysis of its salts, the reaction of the medium is usually acidic.
    Carbonic acid is weak. During hydrolysis, the reaction of the medium of its salts is usually alkaline

  9. We measure fertilizers "by eye"

    Maybe I won’t open America with my topic, but since, as I understand, we also have new gardeners, I’ll tell them about gardening “arithmetic.”
    In any recommendations for the use of fertilizers they write: take 12 grams of fluff lime, 18 grams of potassium chloride, and so on. In general, a pharmacy scale under your arm and off to the garden!
    Don't be alarmed, everything can be much simpler. The gardener has his own, and very precise, measurements.

    The first one is Matchbox. It contains:

    19 g ammonium sulfate,
    17 g ammonium nitrate,
    13 g urea,
    22 g of simple granular superphosphate,
    20 g double superphosphate,
    35 g phosphate rock,
    19 g potassium chloride,
    22 g potassium salt,
    26 g potassium sulfate,
    34 g dolomite flour,
    30 g limestone flour,
    12 g slaked lime
    10 g wood ash,
    8 g peat ash,
    20 g nitrophoska.

    One tablespoon is

    14 g ammonium sulfate,
    12 g ammonium nitrate,
    10 g urea,
    17 g of simple granular superphosphate,
    15 g double superphosphate,
    26 g phosphate rock,
    14 g potassium chloride,
    17 g potassium salt,
    20 g potassium sulfate,
    25 g dorlomite flour,
    22 g limestone flour,
    9 g slaked lime,
    8 g wood or
    6 g peat ash,
    15 g nitrophoska.

    Aren't you tired? Then about a teaspoon.

    This is 4 g of ammonium nitrate,
    3 g urea, 5 g nitrophoska,
    5 g of simple granular superphosphate,
    5 g double superphosphate,
    5 g potassium chloride,
    5 g ammonium sulfate,
    5 g potassium salt,
    9 g phosphate rock,
    6 g potassium sulfate,
    8 g dolomite
    8 g limestone flour,
    3 g slaked lime,
    2.5 g wood ash,
    2 g peat ash.

    It happens that more “volumetric” measurement measures are needed, especially when feeding trees.

    So, one glass (200 ml) is
    200 g of nitrophoska and double superphosphate,
    186 g ammonium sulfate,
    165 g ammonium nitrate,
    130 g urea,
    220 g potassium salt
    220 g of simple granular superphosphate,
    350 g phosphate rock,
    190 g potassium chloride,
    260 g potassium sulfate,
    340 g dolomite flour,
    300 g limestone flour,
    120 g slaked lime,
    100 g wood and
    80 g peat ash.
    And one standard bucket with a capacity of 10 liters is
    8 kg fresh horse manure,
    5 kg of horse manure, but on a bed of sawdust,
    9 kg fresh mullein,
    5 kg - dry peat,
    5 kg wood ash
    5 kg of bird droppings,
    8 kg of humus,
    12 kg of turf soil,
    10 kg of old greenhouse or compost soil.

    Superphosphate is poorly soluble in water, so superphosphate extract is used. It is prepared as follows: 200 g of superphosphate (double 100 g) is poured into 1 liter of hot water and left for 1-1.5 hours, stirring constantly. Then 0.2 liters of extract are diluted in 10 liters of water. This amount is equivalent to 40 g of dry matter

  10. From fleas

    Isn't it ash? Helps me very well
    Our dog and cat pet flea shampoo works great for fleas. We take the cheapest one. 2-3 tablespoons per bucket. We've been doing this for many years. The bubble is enough for three (just get it right) for 2-3 years.

  11. Last year I poured 0.5 liters of Baikal solution onto a 300 liter bath. The solution is what comes out of the concentrate. The proportions are the same - 1 to 10 for watering. With Baikal, the stinky cooks faster, and after using and adding water/herbs, it cooks even faster. Grass (silage) can also be used, and before water. Spread the silage between the spreaders and water the top with plain water. I really liked it last year. I used the stink itself only where there was not enough silage.
  12. Seller in flower shop once persuaded me to buy succinic acid: they say that this product amazingly stimulates plant growth and it is impossible to overdo it.
    At home I diluted 1 g of powder per 5 liters. water, watered and sprayed all the house plants with the solution.

    The result was amazing! And it became noticeable within a week:

    Maranths have released new leaves and shoots.
    - The begonias also liked the feeding: the ever-flowering one, for example, gave 4 powerful side shoots at once, and flowering increased.
    - The pandanus has new leaves not only at the top, but also from under the leaves of the first, second and third row.
    - Aglaonemas produced new leaves, some gave birth to babies.
    - Cuttings of tangerine, ficus, chlorophytum, peperomia, alocasia, syngonium, and oleander gave good growth of leaves.
    - Opuntia
    It first burst out with spines, and then released 12 lateral segments.
    - A cutting of African portulacaria that had not taken root for a long time produced 2 side shoots.
    - Decembrist, agave, and aich-rizona liked the “treat”; the growth of leaves of Crassula and Raspberry plants noticeably perked up.

    Separately, I would like to talk about the application succinic acid for cacti and succulents. I didn't expect them to rapid growth, but was very surprised when a month later Haworthia released 10 babies at once.
    - The cacti were happy too.

    However, I do not recommend repeatedly applying succinic acid to cacti and succulents: a reverse reaction may occur.
    Fertilizer should be applied once or repeated no more than once every 2 years.

    Properties of succinic acid for plants

    Due to the excellent natural utilization of succinic acid in nature, it does not pollute environment. Therefore (and not only) it is often used for plants.
    It is an excellent plant growth regulator, improves the absorption of substances from the soil, and also helps plants cope with various types of stress.
    Succinic acid normalizes the natural microflora of the soil and the vital activity of microorganisms found in it.
    Treatment of plants with acid increases resistance to adverse effects environment.
    Its use in relation to certain parts of plants, accordingly, stimulates growth: treatment of roots - root growth, young shoots - growth of new shoots.
    Succinic acid is an excellent resuscitator for plants.
    It is used to treat seeds and cuttings before planting. various plants to improve germination and increase stability.

    Dosage of succinic acid

    To prepare working solutions suitable for spraying and soaking, 1 g of succinic acid must be dissolved in a small amount of warm water. We make a strong solution of succinic acid. The volume of solution after this cold water bring to 1 liter. That is, it turned out to be a solution of 1 g per 1 liter - a one percent solution.
    Next, to obtain a 0.02% solution of succinic acid, you need to dilute 200 ml of one percent cold water to 1 liter.
    To obtain a 0.05% solution, add 500 ml of a strong solution to a liter with cold water.

    Succinic acid is also useful for people.

    Succinic acid stabilizes nervous system, kidney and intestinal function improves. It is used for stress, as well as as an anti-inflammatory and antitoxic agent.
    Also for the treatment of anemia, radiculitis, chronic heart disease, blood vessels, atherosclerosis and after a heart attack.
    It also perfectly neutralizes alcohol in the blood. Just in the morning after a feast, take a glass of water with half a teaspoon of succinic acid diluted in it and you will immediately feel relief.

  13. I use pine concentrate (2 caps per 10 liters of water). If you can use spruce needles, even better. Let the half-liter jar sit for 10-12 hours, then strain it into a 10-liter sprayer. The aroma is amazing, and so is the result. This year, when spraying apricots, I added Fitosporin
  14. Crop rotation

    Advice for summer residents and gardeners!

    Crop rotation
    1st year - cabbage, rutabaga, radish, radish;
    2nd year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini;
    3rd year - beets, carrots, parsley, onions, garlic;
    4th year - tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, legumes, corn.

    Precursor vegetables
    for cabbage - potatoes, cucumbers, onions, peas, tomatoes are also acceptable;
    for tomatoes, peppers - cucumbers, onions, legumes, cabbage is acceptable;
    for cucumbers - peas, legumes, potatoes, tomatoes;
    for onions - potatoes, tomatoes, peas, cucumbers, and cabbage;
    for beets, carrots - cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, zucchini, tomatoes and onions are acceptable.

    Vegetables are good neighbors
    for cucumbers - beans, garlic, cabbage, onions;
    for garlic - cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes;
    for carrots - cabbage, radishes, beets, tomatoes, but best of all onions;
    for tomatoes - garlic, cabbage, onions, radishes.

    Vegetables are bad neighbors
    for cucumbers - radishes, tomatoes;
    for garlic - beans, peas, cabbage; Potassium monophosphate is highly soluble and contains phosphorus in addition to potassium (as the name implies), but it is much more expensive than other potash fertilizers. Therefore, it is usually used for leaf feeding, sparingly. That is, during the summer.
    As already mentioned above, not all plants “love” chlorine; for these, it is better to choose potassium sulfate rather than chloride. Especially for blueberries, hydrangeas, and rhododendrons, the sulfate ion also acidifies the soil, which is desirable for them. True, this does not mean that after fertilizing with potassium chloride everything will immediately rot. And it doesn’t matter when to pour it. It is believed that potassium is mainly fed in the second half of summer, but plants also need it in spring. For example, it is also present in complex granular “spring” fertilizers. But in what form - chloride or sulfate, unfortunately, they are not always written on them (if you really want, you can trace the composition of a particular brand on pesticides.ru or the manufacturer’s websites). Which, however, only indicates that this is not important.

  15. The busiest time for gardeners will begin very soon. Therefore, we will talk about the garden and dacha.

    When the plants begin to gain color, you need to have time to spray everything directly on the flowers while it is blooming: flowers, apple trees, cherries, tomatoes, cucumbers and other plants, with a weak solution of boron (you can buy it at the pharmacy) 2-3 grams per 10 liters of water. This is enough to literally water the entire garden.

    It works very effectively, something like "Ovary", but is much cheaper.

    The effect is truly amazing, tested from my own experience, there are much more ovaries and there is almost no dropping of fruits in the early stages. Flowers in flower beds are larger, and flowers like gladioli do not bend and stand straight and steadfast, like true gladiators!

    36 and 1 THICK ADVICE FOR GARDENERS AND GARDENERS.

    1. Beets love watering by sprinkling and frequent but careful loosening.
    2. After the second thinning, the beets are fed with mineral fertilizers.
    3. Beets grow best in narrow beds, maximum 3 rows wide, with distances between plants of 15-17 cm.
    4. Until the carrots sprout, they are watered regularly. When the shoots appear, it is better not to water them for 12-15 days, with the exception of dry days. This allows the roots to go as deep as possible into the
    soil.
    5. If mustard is sown next to peas, its yield will be 2 times higher.
    6. It is better to sow dill in the sun, as the aroma of the leaves decreases in the shade. Do not add ash or lime to the dill
    7. Clematis are watered with lime milk in the spring - 100-150 grams per 10 liters of water.
    8. In mid-July, carefully remove the soil from the celery fruits and wipe with a cloth. After 15-50 minutes they spud again. Watering is carried out only after 2-3 days.
    9. To stimulate the fruiting of the pumpkin, its vines are pinned to the ground and rooted.
    10. Seedlings pumpkin crops such as cucumber, squash, zucchini can be
    grow this way: cut the turf into 10*12 cm cubes,
    turn it upside down, make a hole and plant a seed in it.
    11. To ensure that rhubarb petioles grow thick, the soil under the plants is fertilized every year.
    12. Do not feed beans, peas, onions, garlic, and beans with nettle infusion.
    13. Apple and pear trees require more potassium, and cherries require more nitrogen.
    14. If you stroke the tops of the seedlings for 1-2 minutes every day, they will
    will not stretch. When touched, ethylene is released, which inhibits
    this process.
    15. Nettle increases the resistance of nearby plants to diseases.
    That is why it is useful to mulch the rows with chopped nettles.
    16. Green manure from mustard enriches the soil with phosphorus and sulfur, and also cleanses it of mole crickets and wireworms.
    17. Onions will grow better if mustard grew in this place.
    18. Repellent plants: lupine, celandine, nastrutia, calendula, marigold, onion, kanufer, tansy, wormwood.
    19. It is useful to mulch strawberries with pine litter. This will improve the taste of the berries, and
    will also help cope with gray mold, weevil, mite,
    wireworm. And mulching with ferns will help strawberries cope
    with nematodes and gray mold.
    20. After a sharp cold snap, plants are sprayed with immunocytophyte or
    zircon. Or you can use an infusion of onion peels. Fill with 10 liters
    water 0.5 liter jar of husks, boil, leave for 12 hours,
    strain. When spraying, dilute with water in a ratio of 2/10.
    21. When it gets cold, buckets of hot water are brought into the greenhouse, metal sheets heated bricks are laid out.
    22. To increase productivity, it is necessary to attract
    pollinating insects. To do this, pink and white clover are sown,
    fescue, bluegrass. Insects are also attracted to white mustard flowers and
    carrots.
    23. To remontant varieties strawberries produced more abundant fruit in the second half of summer; flower stalks are broken off in the spring.
    24. Dill is a good companion for cucumber.
    25. Beetroot sown along potatoes and tomatoes helps them cope with late blight.
    26. If you stick a nettle stalk next to each planted cabbage plant, the cabbage will take root better.
    27. From cabbage butterflies and aphids, dill is sown in the spaces between the cabbage rows,
    coriander, celery, marigolds, calendula, and also lay out branches
    wormwood.
    28. When planting potatoes, pour a handful of ash into the hole - it is a fertilizer and helps against wireworms.
    29. To increase yield and improve taste in the first half of June
    First water the garlic with salted water - 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water, and
    then normal.
    30. If carrot growth is poor, the beds with this crop are watered with a salt solution - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.
    31. Cucumber is demanding of moisture, especially during flowering and
    fruiting. However, at the beginning of flowering, it is better to reduce watering, and then
    strengthen again. This promotes faster fruit formation.
    32. In hot weather, cucumbers combine frequent spraying with abundant watering.
    33. Cucumber pollen dies at t>30ºC. Therefore, at this time, containers with water should be placed in the greenhouse.
    34. Low temperatures and sudden changes in day and night temperatures
    are the reasons for the deterioration of the taste of cucumber. Also cucumbers
    They do not tolerate drafts at all.
    35. Increased carbon dioxide content in the air accelerates ripening
    fruits and increases yield. Therefore, it is useful to place a container with
    mullein and stir occasionally.
    36. If at the beginning of summer several fruits set on the pepper plants, and
    flowering has stopped, then these fruits must be plucked. Plants after this
    will begin to bloom with renewed vigor and by the end of the season will produce high
    harvest.
    37. For influx fresh air loosen the soil to the roots of the pepper more often and do not allow the formation of a soil crust.

Among all the variety of means to combat late blight on the site, special attention should be paid to this particular drug. "Trichopol" is effective and at the same time relatively safe for fruits. Features of the use of this product, as well as important points The preparation of the solution is described in the information in our article.

Description of the disease

Representatives of the nightshade family are susceptible to late blight. These are tomatoes, potatoes and eggplants. Phytophthora spores may be present in the ground, on planting material and weeds. You can accidentally introduce late blight along with new soil or plant debris. There are frequent cases of this fungus migrating by air, for example, from a neighboring area. It is necessary to fight this scourge immediately, otherwise literally within a week from lush bushes there won't be a trace left.

The first signs of late blight can be noticed upon examination lower leaves plants. They are covered with brown-black spots, which quickly increase in size and affect the stem and fruits. In the later stages, the plant can no longer be saved and the best way out is to remove it from the site and burn it to prevent the infection from spreading throughout all the plantings.

In the video - late blight of tomatoes:

Favorable conditions for the spread of late blight fungus:

  • High humidity. Without water, the spores quickly die when exposed to sunlight. When watering, you should observe moderation and do not wet the leaves of the plants, so as not to provoke disease. If there is an excess of moisture in the soil, it is recommended to increase the frequency of loosening.
  • Weakened plants. Any disease has a high chance of sticking to stunted and weak seedlings. To strengthen the root system, mineral supplements are used, as well as natural hardening, which must be carried out at the seedling stage.
  • Dense plantings. In such conditions, infection occurs and develops very quickly. To prevent this, you must comply optimal distance between plants, and also, if necessary, thin out thickets. It should also be noted that pinching plants and removing leaves cannot be done after watering and at high air humidity. This provokes the penetration of spores into the plant and worsens the situation.

It will also be interesting and useful to learn more about which ones are most suitable.

It is not always possible to create everything for garden crops the necessary conditions, especially since rainy and cold summers are simply ideal for the appearance of harmful late blight. In this case, they will come to the rescue special methods struggles that are diverse. Trichopolum is considered one of the most effective.

Effect of the drug

The active ingredient of the drug is metronidazole. It is used in the treatment of fungal diseases in people, but you can find advice from experienced gardeners who use it for plants. Its action is based on the destruction of pathogenic fungi, because this remedy is effective against most known trunks.

Trichopolum

How to prepare a solution of "Trichopol":

  1. A standard package of this medicine (20 tablets) is enough for 10 liters of water. If a larger volume is required for spraying, the number of tablets increases proportionally.
  2. It is recommended to first dissolve the tablets in a small volume of water to achieve a homogeneous solution.
  3. The resulting mixture is poured into a suitable container and diluted to the required 10 liters.
  4. Spraying is carried out on the same day; the solution is not intended for storage.

The use of such sprays can be alternated with traditional methods fight against late blight. Fungal spores quickly adapt to the drugs used, so the technique must be changed frequently.

But how to use ash as a fertilizer for tomatoes, and what results can be achieved from using such a product, is indicated

Combined methods give excellent results when the plant is well treated together with the soil layer.

Features of use

As for anyone medicinal product, before using Trichopolum, you need to study the instructions, and in this case, the advice of experienced gardeners. The product is effective and safe only if used correctly.

The main nuances of using “Trichopol” against late blight:

  • Spraying should be carried out in the first half of the day in dry and windless weather.
  • The solution must be prepared immediately before use. The remainder of the mixture cannot be stored; it is better to immediately calculate the required amount.
  • The plant must be processed completely, paying special attention to the lower leaves.
  • If it rains after spraying, it is better to repeat the treatment the next day.
  • To disinfect the root system, it is better to water each bush with 50 ml of the mixture under the root.
  • Plants must be treated once every ten days.. The number of treatments should not exceed three to four times per season.
  • The first time of spraying is carried out after planting seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse.
  • If it is impossible to purchase the original Trichopolum, you can replace it with a cheaper analogue - Metronidazole.

But how to properly combat late blight on tomatoes, and what the best means are, is indicated

Using the drug with brilliant green

According to gardeners, this combination is even more effective, because additional disinfection of the soil and shoots occurs. To prepare such a solution, just add a standard bottle of pharmaceutical brilliant green to the mixture described above. The antiseptic can be replaced with iodine, only the portion will be several times smaller - approximately 15 - 20 drops.

The frequency and order of processing remain the same, the only inconvenience is the creation of a pigment of the substance used, which can stain the skin or clothing.

Late blight is a dangerous disease that can quickly destroy potato or tomato plantings. To avoid infection, it is recommended to thin out the plantings and provide them with comfortable watering and ventilation. If you notice the first signs of late blight, you must act without delay.

In the video - trichopolum with potassium permanganate:

Late blight is a serious disease of nightshade plants, which must be treated so as not to lose the entire harvest. Not only specialized products help fight infection, but also conventional pharmaceutical drugs, such as Trichopolum and its cheaper analogue Metronidazole. It is recommended to treat tomatoes with Trichopolum first as a preventive measure, since late blight is much easier to prevent than to eradicate. But it is also possible to stop the development of the fungus using these available means.

Phytophthora in tomatoes: what it looks like, favorable conditions for the fungus

Late blight disease is caused by a fungus. The spores are found in the soil, as well as in low-quality seeds. Plants can also become infected with the help of wind, which carries pathogens from nearby plantings or a neighbor’s plot. Late blight requires emergency intervention, since a week after its detection there is a high probability of losing the entire harvest.

How the disease manifests itself: first, dark brown spots form on the bushes - you need to look for them on the lower part of the leaf blade. The fungus then progresses, moving to the stem and fruits. If late blight has developed to this stage, then the plantings will have to be removed and burned; it will no longer be possible to cure them.

What conditions allow the late blight fungus to develop?attack and hit tomatoes:

  1. Density of plantings. Such bushes receive little light necessary to kill the fungus. When planting, a distance of at least 0.7-1 m must be maintained between tomatoes. And we should not forget about thinning out the stepchildren.
  2. High humidity. Water should be added as needed in moderate quantities. Drops should not fall on the leaves - water is poured strictly at the root. Excessively moist soil should be loosened after watering.
  3. Weak root system. This mistake should be avoided already at the seedling stage. The roots are fed with complex fertilizers. When transplanting, tomatoes are moved along with a lump of earth, trying not to damage the roots.
  4. Overfeeding with nitrogen. This “fatification” leads to a weakening of the plant’s immunity: tomatoes require the element only at the green growth stage.

"Trichopol" and "Metronidazole" against late blight

Pharmaceutical drug "Trichopol" is intended for the treatment of human fungal diseases, but it is also effective against late blight on tomatoes. The product helps destroy pathogenic microorganisms in the early stages of their development. The drug is available in tablet form. The advantage of Trichopolum is safety for the plants themselves.

“Metronidazole” against late blight on tomatoes is as effective as its more expensive analogue, and is available in the same form, tablets.

In both cases, a solution is prepared from the medicine. For efficiency "Trichopol" or "Metronidazole" mixed with brilliant green, iodine.

When to treat

Treatment of tomatoes for preventive purposes is carried out in early spring. You need to start by treating the seeds before planting. Then the young seedlings are watered with the solution. In the fall, it also doesn’t hurt to treat the soil for planting tomatoes by watering.

For treatment, tomatoes are processed in early June, since it is in this month that late blight begins to actively manifest itself. Carry out no more than 3-4 treatments with an interval of 10 days. The last operation is recommended to be carried out 2 weeks before harvest.

Advice! The drugs need to be alternated with other treatments, since the fungus tends to adapt. For replacement, folk remedies are used: dairy products, saline solution, tobacco, ash.

How to treat tomatoes with Trichopolum

How to use Trichopolum for tomatoes infected with fungus:

  1. 20 Trichopolum tablets are first diluted in a small amount of warm water. Then the mixture is poured into a bucket, which is filled with water up to 10 liters.
  2. An overdose is not allowed, as there is a danger of burning the plant.
  3. To prevent the product from flowing off the foliage, but staying on it, liquid soap is added to the solution.
  4. Treatment is carried out in the morning, in warm, windless and dry weather.
  5. The entire bush is sprayed, but special attention is paid to the lower part of the leaves - this is where the causative agent of the disease is located.
  6. Even if the rest of the bush is externally healthy, it is still recommended to treat it, since the fungus can be present in all parts.
  7. To treat the root system, water the soil around the bush. For one plant - 50 ml of solution. Not much, but it will be enough.
  8. The solution cannot be stored, so it must be used on the day of preparation, preferably immediately after the tablets have dissolved. The rest will have to be thrown away.
  9. The procedure is carried out once every 10 days.
  10. If it rains on the selected day or the next day, the procedure is repeated (for street plantings), since the Trichopolum solution is easily washed off.
  11. If the plant has been pruned, then you should not rush to treat it with Trichopolum and other antifungal agents. The cuts on the stem should tighten - you should give them at least 3-4 hours.

Advice! When treating an affected bush, it is necessary to spray the neighboring plantings with the drug, even if there are no traces of the disease on them.

Additives to the Trichopolum solution

For greater efficiency, brilliant green is often added to the prepared solution. The product is an additional antifungal component. For 10 liters of prepared solution - one bottle.

Iodine can be used for the same purpose. 15-20 drops of the product are enough for a ready-made solution with a volume of 10 liters.

How to use Metronidazole

"Metronidazole" is an analogue of "Trichopol", they have the same active ingredient.

How to spray tomatoes with the preparation:

  1. The proportions of water and tablets are the same as in the case of Trichopolum: 20 pieces per 10 liters.
  2. Infected plantings can be treated either by spraying or by watering the soil around the bush.
  3. If tomato leaves curl, they are thoroughly wiped with the solution on both sides.
  4. Does not harm plants if you combine a solution of Metronidazole with brilliant green.

The best remedy against late blight on tomatoes is careful care at all stages. Late blight will not affect bushes when they correct landing. Preventative measures are much more effective than treatment. The development of the late blight fungus can only be slowed down, but the plant is unlikely to be completely cured.

From year to year, gardeners are faced with an annoying and quite dangerous problem -.

Description and release form

For the most part, anti-phytophthora preparations can be used before fruits begin to ripen. In addition, they are quite poisonous and chemically unsafe.

And only recently have people thought of using medications designed to treat people to combat this problem at different stages of development.

Did you know? Tomatoes came to European territory from America around the middle of the sixteenth century.

"Trichopol" is one of these drugs used for late blight. It is available in the form of white, slightly yellow tablets containing 250 mg of metronidazole each. This drug is widely available in any pharmacy.

It is an excellent remedy for fighting fungi, and especially one of worst enemies- late blight, which occurs under the influence of a fungus spreading by spores.

Active substance

The main active ingredient, which makes this drug quite a formidable assistant to people in the fight against various dangerous fungal diseases, is metronidazole.

Indications for use

"Trichopol" is indicated for use in the treatment of various bacterial diseases in humans. But in the agricultural sector, it has recently begun to be used to treat late blight.

At the same time, Trichopolum helps to defeat a number of other diseases that are no less dangerous for:, angular spotting.

Therefore, "Trichopol" for use has its own instructions for use, compiled on the basis practical experience in the fight against diseases and the results obtained.
It has an unusually effective effect on fungi that cause late blight, due to its ability to inhibit these microorganisms and its very bitter taste, which prevents them from absorbing vital plant cells.

How to prepare the solution

To prepare a solution based on Trichopolum, you don’t need a lot of effort, time and money, and the result will definitely please you.

Important! Various gardeners additionally add iodine, milk, and some other substances to this solution that can enhance the effect of such a product and make it 100% effective. Main feature Such mixtures are their comparative harmlessness - both in terms of impact on the human body and in terms of ecology.

To obtain excellent results, the solutions must be used systematically every seven to ten days.

For tomatoes

The most effective means To protect against late blight based on Trichopolum, a mixture of this drug with brilliant green is used. “Trichopol” helps to eliminate all fungi that cause the disease, and brilliant green has a healing effect on the plant in terms of ridding them of infections.

The most used proportions among experienced gardeners are the following proportions: 10 liters of water, 20 crushed Trichopolum tablets, a bottle of brilliant green. It is recommended to prepare the solution 20–30 minutes before use.
Using a sprayer, each bush must be thoroughly sprayed until the solution begins to drip from the leaves. It is recommended to start treatment with this product as early as possible, preferably before the first signs of the disease appear, and carry out regularly every ten days.

In this case, the number of Trichopolum tablets and brilliant green can be reduced. But even if signs of the disease appear, this remedy is also effective.

Important!The sooner you begin to take measures to combat a threat to plants, the more guarantees that it will be eliminated or will not appear at all.

For cucumbers

"Trichopol" is used to protect not only, but also. Although they are slightly less susceptible to the threat of fungal diseases, this is also an important problem for them.

Therefore, it is necessary to regularly monitor and, at the first suspicion of a disease, use means to combat it. "Trichopol" will help in the growing process and to combat diseases such as.
The solution and frequency of treatment with Trichopolum used for is absolutely suitable for.

For pears

The solution used for processing can help in saving from various diseases, which manifest themselves in curling and premature wilting of leaves, and the appearance of black dots on them.

Damage to the bark can be cured with the help of Trichopolum mastic, treating all areas causing concern.

For grapes

And this amazing remedy using Trichopolum is also suitable for processing, especially at the first signs of rot. But it can be applied no later than two or maximum one week before harvest.

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